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Sprintex New fall fabrics can be inspired by archives. Sometimes they are ultra light, double faced, soft, brushed. There are knits that look like wovens …. wovens that look and feel like knits. Surfaces that are lacquered, waxed, bubbled, tweeded flocked, or perforated are selling. Sustainability takes hold. And don’t forget denim. It is everywhere. Best selling colors, weaves, textures, patterns By Virginia Borland

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Page 1: Best selling colors, weaves, textures, patterns By ...fgi.org/files/New_York/documents/PV-AW2014-web2.pdf · Best selling colors, weaves, textures, patterns By Virginia Borland. Sulphur

Sprintex

New fall fabrics can be inspired by archives. Sometimes they are ultra light, double faced, soft, brushed. There are knits that look like wovens …. wovens that look and feel like knits. Surfaces that are lacquered, waxed, bubbled, tweeded �ocked, or perforated are selling. Sustainability takes hold. And don’t forget denim. It is everywhere.

Best selling colors, weaves, textures, patternsBy Virginia Borland

Page 2: Best selling colors, weaves, textures, patterns By ...fgi.org/files/New_York/documents/PV-AW2014-web2.pdf · Best selling colors, weaves, textures, patterns By Virginia Borland. Sulphur

Sulphur Loaf

Being Red

Dusty Rose

Seaweed Caviar

Chestnut Balm

Blue Magma

Sequoia Juice

Auburn Curl

Lead

Cold Lagoon

Zest Con�t

Grey Matter

Picchi

Picchi

There are 22 colors on the Premiere Vision color card, divided into three groups. The �rst is four dark shades highlighted with three brights. The second group is six o� beat dusty mid-range colors with silver and white. The �nal selections are primarily bright.

About 260 exhibitors were interviewed after each day of the show regarding best sellers. Their reports are divided into catagories for men, women, casual and active sports. Blue Magma (navy), was cited as the number one choice for women’s coats & ensembles, men’s jackets and coats, men’s shirts & tops and second choice for casual jackets & trousers and for active sports.

Bright colors are selling at Picchi of Italy in solids and giant plaids. Flannels, felts, boucles, perforated wools, thick twills, heathers, �ocking, bonded fabrics and camou�age prints were pointed out. There is a lot of coordination here. Look for Zest Con�t and Streaming Pink in jacket weights.

WOMEN’S WEAR is divided into two categories; along with coats & ensembles, the second group is tops and dresses. Being Red is �rst for tops & dresses, second for coats & ensembles. For coats & ensembles the third choice is Lead (very dark brown), followed by Seaweed Caviar (dark green) and Chestnut Balm (dusty taupe). Tops and dresses cites Sulphur Loaf (warm yellow-olive) as second, Purple Rain (shiny red cast) as number three followed by Thin Skinned (dusty rose) and Grey Matter.

In the MENSWEAR category the two groups are jackets & coats and shirts & tops. Colors mentioned for jackets & coats, after Blue Magma, are Lead, Seaweed Caviar, Grey Matter, Auburn Curl (red cast brown) and Being Red. For shirts & tops, Plum Idea (bright) is second followed by Grey Matter, Sequoia Juice (orange brown) and being red.

CASUAL is also divided into two categories, jackets & trousers and shirts & tops. Lead is number one for jackets & trousers, followed by Blue Magma, Seaweed Caviar, Sequoia Juice and Chestnut Balm. Shirts & Tops cites Cold Lagoon (turquoise-blue) as �rst choice, followed by Orange Wax (dusty), Grey Matter, Mauve Silence (dusty) and Auburn Curl.

There are eight shades cited for Active Sports in one group. Number one is Lead, followed by Blue Magma, Grey Matter, Cold Lagoon, Sequoia Juice, It’s Me (silver), Zest Con�t (yellow) and Steaming Pink (bright).

Robert Noble of Britain took inspiration from its archives, going back to 1850. Shetland types are lighter in weight, hairy and recolored. There are year round weights in small gun club and windowpane checks and lofty soft coatings. Tweeds at Ratti of Italy are sometimes striped or woven with boucle yarns. Brights are selling.

Tissage des Chaumes, a division of Philea of France, showed hairy and brushed tweeds. “People like Chanel inspirations,” we were told. At Avelana of France there are patterns, solids and double faced fabrics that work together. Twills, tweeds, heathers and nubbed fabrics in bright colors, and small patterns were shown.

BTD of Turkey has new �nishes that are antiqued, brushed, waxed or tie-died. They just started to make garments for the world, along with fabrics. There are huge plaids, indiscrete novelty weaves colorful twills with jaspe yarns, crepes and denim look-likes in polyester/viscose/cotton/stretch blends.

COLORTAILORED

Page 3: Best selling colors, weaves, textures, patterns By ...fgi.org/files/New_York/documents/PV-AW2014-web2.pdf · Best selling colors, weaves, textures, patterns By Virginia Borland. Sulphur

Olmetex Olmetex Frizza Frizza

Friz

za

Bel Maille

At A-Girls of Japan many of the knits look and feel like wovens. There are outerwear reversible pea-coat fabrics in a blend of wool/cotton/nylon, �at stretch terry cloth of cotton/polyester and wool pile that is brushed and ultra light. Digitally printed tweeds in Tencel/cashmere/polyester are dress weight.

Jacquard knits at Bel Maille of France look and feel like neoprene, some are bonded with nylon in the middle. They are continuing with engineered stripes in new yarn mixes of silk/cotton/viscose or wool/nylon/cashmere. And don’t forget lingerie. Philea has jacket weight knits for men and women.

Carlo Bonomi of Italy has fabrics that are wax coated to give them a vintage look, velvets, corduroys, denims and soft twills in blends of cotton/Tencel. Some have all over glitter others are lustrous and soft.Velcorex of France showed corduroy that looks like denim but feels like corduroy. There are narrow wale ultra- light stretch corduroys, coated and over-dyed corduroys, printed and embossed velvets.

At Pro�lo of Italy denim in cotton/viscose blends can be camou�age printed, jacquard patterned, striped or shiny. There are velours appliqued with metallic dots, shiny coated leather looks and small patterned cotton jacquards with a textured look. For men there are double faced fabrics that are dyed, washed and laminated to give a denim look.

Two from Italy that specialize in outerwear are Frizza and Olmetex. At Frizza there are double faced bonded wool blends where one side is herringbone textured, leaf printed, or abstract jacquard patterned. There are ultra light lacquered surfaces, shiny/dull bubble patterns,

re�ective jacquards, metallic all-overs, stretch twills with tucked surfaces and dimensional prints.

Olmetex showed transparent water repellant silks, cotton/nylon camou�age prints, double faced performance jacquards, cotton/silk washed poplins, bonded wool/polyester stretch and water repellant fabrics where yarns are treated to give a waxed touch.

At Alcantara of Italy, where the core business is to the automotive industry, there are suedes of washed polyester/polyurethane that are printed, embossed, embroidered, quilted, laser engraved or pleated. The line is sustainable and is sold to Armani, Fendi and Ferragamo. Ratti has transparent, plastic-touch grounds that are one color printed with irregular splatters or plaids.

CASUAL & TECHNICAL KNITTED FABRICS

Page 4: Best selling colors, weaves, textures, patterns By ...fgi.org/files/New_York/documents/PV-AW2014-web2.pdf · Best selling colors, weaves, textures, patterns By Virginia Borland. Sulphur

Sprintex

Carlo Pozzi

Solstiss

Carpentier & Preux

Ratti

Liberty

Miroglio

Ratti

Digital prints that contain multi colors, all over designs, can be done quickly and don’t require large yardage orders are popular. KBC of Germany, Miroglio of Italy and Sprintex of France are three specialists. Liberty of the UK is another.

Carlo Pozzi of Italy showed dark colored jacquards with textured surfaces. There are quilted geometric, abstract or �owered patterns. Other fabrics include cotton/silk opaque/sheer panels, double faced sheers with silver in the middle and Lurex checks and stripes.

Lacy looks at Carpentier & Preux of France include small black and white with silver geometric jacquards, paisleys with �owers, scroll designs and angular bold patterned stripes in solid colors. Blends are wool/cotton or nylon/viscose/elastin.

At KBC there are animal and skin prints, huge landscapes, and photographic �owers. Paisleys are sometimes combined with foulards. Miroglio is printing paisleys, skins and landscapes. There are melted stripes, mirror designs, coordinating checks and �owers and fractured �owers with geometrics and abstracts. Sprintex has a new line of tapestry prints. Flowers are sometimes on misted or heathered grounds and combine with plaids.

The best selling print at Liberty is a typical small �ower. Digital prints include a seashore design with boats and waves and landscapes. There are small, bright �ower/geometric combos, abstracts and paisleys. New base fabrics include brushed Tana lawn, bonded Tana lawn, chambray, water repellant nylon for outerwear, 100-percent cotton stretch, and Harris Tweed.

Prints at Ratti turn up on leather, silk twill, velvet, wool challis, satin, crepe, crepe de chine and pebbly surfaces. Leather prints are primarily �owers with a hand painted look. White circles on black velvet, modern toiles and wall paper �orals are sometimes printed on the matte side of silk twill. There are geometric coordinates and angular moving circles in dark shades with a touch of bright coral or turquoise. And don’t forget paisleys.

New laces at Solstiss of France can be delicate geometric/�oral mixes, classics with a modern touch, metallic and stretch. Also from France, Denis et �ls has coordinating jacquards combining paisleys, stripes, brocades and �orals, some with a touch of metallic. At Ratti there is a “petite” group of combination patterns and inserts, shiny and bumpy jacquards, �ls coupes coordinates in two colors and wool blend boucles with metallic loops.

PRINTED FABRICSLUXE

Page 5: Best selling colors, weaves, textures, patterns By ...fgi.org/files/New_York/documents/PV-AW2014-web2.pdf · Best selling colors, weaves, textures, patterns By Virginia Borland. Sulphur

Report distributed at the SPRING / SUMMER 2014 New York/ London / Milan / Paris Collections presented

November 07, 2013 by: The Fashion Group International ®, Inc.

8 West 40th Street, 7th Floor, NYC 10018 T: 212.302.5511 F:212.302.5533

[email protected]

Première Vision New York & Indigo New YorkJanuary 14 – 15, 2014 | Spring – Summer ‘15

Metropolitan Pavilion & Altman Building

Première Vision PlurielFebruary 18 – 20, 2014 | Spring – Summer ‘15

Parc d'Expositions Paris Nord Villepinte

Thierry LanglaisVP of Operations - US O�ce PREMIERE VISION PREVIEW NEW YORK / INDIGO NEW YORK T: +1 (646) 351-1942 F: +1 (646) 213-7373 C: +1 (646) 696-1584

[email protected]

A-GIRLS [email protected]

HANNA COHEN (Carpentier & Preux) 246 W. 38th St., NYC

212-764-6215

MANON CLAVEL (Avelana & Carlo Bonomi)

262 W. 38th St., NY212-643-4206

CARLO POZZI [email protected]

ROBERT NOBLE [email protected]

SPRINTEX, [email protected]

FRED ROTTMAN (KBC and Picchi)

241 W. 37th St., NYC 212-944-8300

STUDIO BERT FORMA (Philea, Tissage des Chaumes

and Velcorex) 237 W. 37th St 212-730-8939

GERRI TOBIAS INC. (TESJ)

110 W. 40th St., NYC 212-264-2398

TEX-STUDIO INC (Frizza)

80 Depeyster Ave., Tena�y, NJ, 201-816-3107

SOLSTISS (& DENIS et Fils)

561 7th Ave., NYC 212-719-9194

PROFILO Bruno.m@pro�lotessuti.it

RATTI 8 W. 40th St., NYC

212-391-2191

MIROGLIO 1430 B’way., NYC

212-382-2020

OLMETEX [email protected]

FABRICS DU JOUR (Bel Maille)

265 W. 37th St., NYC 212-239-2350

LIBERTY ART FABRICS USA 110 W. 40th St., NYC

646-307-6994

ALCANTARA [email protected]

BTD USA INC. 330 W.38TH St., NYC

212-216-0609