black & decker the book of home how to - the complete photo guide to home repair & improvement

8/9/2019 Black & Decker the Book of Home How to - The Complete Photo Guide to Home Repair & Improvement

1/602


2/602


3/602

HOMETHE BOOK OF

HOW-TOCOMPLETE PHOTO GUIDE TO

HOME REPAIR & IMPROVEMENT

MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA


4/602

NOTICE TO READERS

For safety, use caution, care, and good judgment when following the procedures described in this book. The publisher

and BLACK+DECKERcannot assume responsibility for any damage to property or injury to persons as a result of mis-

use of the information provided.

The techniques shown in this book are general techniques for various applications. In some instances, additional

techniques not shown in this book may be required. Always follow manufacturers instructions included with products,

since deviating from the directions may void warranties. The projects in this book vary widely as to skill levels required:

some may not be appropriate for all do-it-yourselfers, and some may require professional help.

Consult your local building department for information on building permits, codes, and other laws as they apply to

your project.

First published in 2014 by Cool Springs Press, a member of the

Quayside Publishing Group, 400 First Avenue North, Suite 400,

Minneapolis, MN 55401

2014 Cool Springs Press

All rights reserved. With the exception of quoting brief passages

for the purposes of review, no part of this publication may be

reproduced without prior written permission from the Publisher.

The information in this book is true and complete to the best of our

knowledge. All recommendations are made without any guarantee

on the part of the author or Publisher, who also disclaims any

liability incurred in connection with the use of this data or

specific details.

Cool Springs Press titles are also available at discounts in bulk

quantity for industrial or sales-promotional use. For details write

to Special Sales Manager at Cool Springs Press, 400 First Avenue

North, Suite 400, Minneapolis, MN 55401 USA. To find out more

about our books, visit us online atwww.coolspringspress.com.

The Book of Home How-To

Created by:The Editors of Cool Springs Press, in cooperation with BLACK+DECKER.

BLACK+DECKERis a trademark of The BLACK+DECKERCorporation and is used under license.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

The book of home how-to : the complete photo guide to home

repair & improvement / Black & Decker.

pages cm

Summary: Clear, step-by-step instructions with full-color

photography show how to accomplish the most common

home repair, maintenance and improvement tasks. A complete

homeowners manual for jobs that cover every part of the home,

including electrical, plumbing, flooring, walls, windows and doors,

kitchens, bathrooms, cabinetry, garages, basements, and exteriors.

-- Provided by publisher.

ISBN 978-1-59186-598-8 (hardback)

1. Dwellings--Maintenance and repair--Amateurs manuals. I.

Black & Decker Corporation (Towson, Md.)

TH4817.3.B64 2014

643.7--dc23

2013047686

Acquisitions Editor: Mark Johanson

Design Manager: Brad Springer

Layout: Danielle SmithFront Cover Design: Matthew Simmons

Printed in China

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Digital edition: 978-1-61058-984-0

Softcover edition: 978-1-59186-598-8
http://www.coolspringspress.com/http://www.coolspringspress.com/


5/602

CONTENTS

Cabinets & CountertopsCountertops: Installing .....................................72

Kitchen Cabinets ............................................253

Kitchen Cabinets: Island.................................260

Lights: Undercabinet ......................................278

Medicine Cabinets ..........................................285

Range Hood .....................................................339

Tiling: Backsplash ...........................................473

Tiling: Countertop ...........................................477

ExteriorCedar Shake & Shingles: Installing ..................56

Fascia: Aluminum: Installing ...........................147

Gutters (Vinyl): Installing ................................219

Gutters (Seamless): Installing ........................221

Gutters: Repairing ...........................................223

Housewrap: Installing .....................................241

Lap Siding: Installing ......................................265

Painting: Exteriors: Preparing.........................294

Painting: Exteriors ..........................................298

Roofing: Preparing ..........................................345

Roofing: Preparing: Flashing ..........................349

Roofing: Repairing ..........................................351

Roofing: Ridge Vents ......................................357

Roofing: Roof Vents ........................................359

Roofing: Safety Equipment.............................360

Roofing: Safety Equipment: Roof Jacks .........363

Roofing: Three-Tab Shingles ...........................364

Rubber Roofs ..................................................372

Siding: Repairing .............................................391

Siding: Vinyl ....................................................395

Soffits: Roof System .......................................423

Stucco: Repairing ............................................446

Tuck-Point Mortar Joints ................................520

Wood Shakes & Shingles ................................579

FloorsBasement Floors .................................................8

Carpet: Installing ..............................................36

Carpet: Repairing ..............................................48

Carpet: Transition Strips ...................................50

Carpet Squares: Installing ................................52

Floor Leveler ...................................................178

Floors: Laminate .............................................180

Floors: Underlayment .....................................184

Floors: Underlayment: Panels ........................188

Hardwood Floor: Installing .............................227

Hardwood Floor: Refinishing ..........................232

Hardwood Floor: Repairing.............................235

Linoleum Tile: Installing ..................................281

Powder-Actuated Tools ..................................330

Radiant Heat Systems ....................................334

Sheet Vinyl: Flooring: Installing ......................374

Stairways: Codes for ......................................430

Stairways: Construction .................................436

Tile: Cutting .....................................................463

Tile: Regrouting ...............................................469

In a Hurry? See the Keywords on pages 584 to 589


6/602

CONTENTS (CONT.)

Tiling: Floors ....................................................486

Tiling: Floors: Repairing ..................................494

Tiling: Membranes For ....................................495

Vinyl Plank Floor: Installing ............................525

Vinyl Tile: Installing .........................................528

Vinyl Tile: Repairing ........................................534

PlumbingBathroom Vanity: Installing ..............................24

Bathtubs: Installing ...........................................28

Bathtubs: Sliding Tub Doors .............................32

Dishwasher: Installing ......................................76

Drain-Waste-Vent Lines ....................................94

Faucets: Bathroom: Installing.........................149

Faucets: Kitchen: Installing ............................153

Faucets: Kitchen: Sprayer Repairing ..............157

Faucets: Sink: Repairing .................................159

Faucets: Tub & Shower: Repairing .................169

Food Disposers ...............................................192

Icemaker: Installing ........................................243

Kitchen Sink ....................................................261

Kitchen Sprayer: Replacing ............................262

Pedestal Sink: Installing .................................309

PEX Water Supply ...........................................310

Pipe: Copper: Cutting & Soldering .................316

Pipe: Joining: Compression Fittings ...............320

Pipe: Joining: Flare Fittings ............................322

Plumbing: Basics .............................................328

Radiators: Draining .........................................336

Radiators: Hot Water Heating Systems .........338

Shower Door: Installing ..................................384

Shower Enclosure: Installing ..........................386

Sillcock: Installing ...........................................401

Sink Drains: Bathroom: Pop-Up ......................404

Sinks: Clearing Clogs ......................................406

Sinks: Kitchen Drains & Traps ........................408

Sump Pump: Installing ....................................448

Toilet: Clearing Clogs ......................................502

Toilet: Replacement ........................................506

Water Hammer Arrestor: Installing ................539

Water Heater: Installing ..................................540

Water Heater: Fixing: Gas ...............................548

Water Heater: Fixing: Electric .........................550

Whirlpool Tub: Installing .................................552

Walls & CeilingsBasements: Insulating ......................................12

Basements: Wet Walls ......................................18

Ceiling Fans: Installing......................................60

Ceiling Tile: Acoustic .........................................62

Drywall: Corner Bead: Installing.......................98

Drywall: Curved Walls: Installing ....................102

Drywall Finishing: Texturing ...........................106

Drywall: Hanging.............................................110

Drywall: Repairing ..........................................120

Drywall: Taping ...............................................124

Drywall: Types .................................................132

Framing a Wall ................................................196

Framing a Wall: Furred-Out

Basement Walls ..................................................202

Framing a Wall: Stud Size & Spacing .............204

Grab Bars ........................................................217

Insulation ........................................................249

Mitered Returns ..............................................288

Mitering Inside Corners ..................................289

Mitering Outside Corners ...............................291


7/602

Notching Joists & Rafters ...............................293

Painting, Interiors ...........................................302

Picture Rail Molding .......................................315

Soffits: Interior ................................................421

Soundproofing ................................................426

Steel Studs: Framing With ..............................439

Suspended Ceiling: Installing .........................450

Tiling: Backer Board ........................................471

Tiling: Thinset Mortar .....................................497

Tiling: Walls .....................................................499

Trim: Chair Rail: Installing ...............................510

Trim: Coping ....................................................512

Trim: Crown Molding ......................................514

Vent Fan: Installing .........................................521

Wainscoting ....................................................538

Wood Finish: Applying ....................................576

Windows & DoorsDoor: Locks: Deadbolt.......................................80

Doors: Bifold .....................................................85

Doors: Entry ......................................................86

Doors: Non-Prehung: Installing ........................88

Doors: Pocket ....................................................91

Garage Door Tune Up ......................................208

Interior Door: Installing ..................................251

Mitered Casing for Windows & Doors ...........287

Patio Door: Installing ......................................305

Skylight: Installing ..........................................412

Storm Windows & Doors: Repairing...............443

Window: Installing ..........................................557

Window: Egress: Installing .............................561

Window: Sash Cords.......................................567

Window: Stool & Apron ..................................568

WiringBest Practices for Home Wiring .....................143

Circuit Breakers & Fuses ..................................64

Conduit: Installing ............................................68

Doorbells: Installing ..........................................81

Electrical Boxes ..............................................134

Electrical Circuits ............................................138

Electricity: Basics ............................................140

Electricity: Basics: Safety ...............................145

Fluorescent Lights ..........................................190

GFCI Receptacles ............................................213

Glossary of Electrical Terms ...........................142

Heaters: Baseboard ........................................238

Lamp Socket: Replacing .................................263

Lights: Ceiling .................................................270

Lights: Ceiling: Recessed ................................273

Lights: Ceiling: Track .......................................275

Plugs & Cords: Replacing ................................324

Plugs & Cords: Replacing: Lamp .....................326

Raceways: Surface-Mounted Wiring ..............332

Receptacles .....................................................341

Receptacles: High-Voltage ..............................342

Receptacles: Replacing ...................................343

Smoke & CO Detectors ...................................419

Switches: Electrical ........................................454

Switches: Electrical: Dimmer .........................457

Thermostats ....................................................459

Wires & Cable .................................................571

Wires & Cable: Connecting .............................572

Wires & Cable: Installing In Walls ...................574

Keywords..........................................................584

Index................................................................588


8/602


9/602

I N T R O D U C T I O N

The Book of Home How-Tois not just another big book of home improvement and repair subjects. The worldis full of these already and they are all more or less the same: Youll find a chapter on wiring, a chapter on

plumbing, another chapter on flooring, one on trim carpentry, and on and on. And thats fineits the way these

books have always been done. But weve realized that this approach no longer fits with the way we search forinformation today. So we have done away with the traditional drop-down menu way of searching and gottenback to basics: alphabetical listings.

Need to know how to replace a shingle? Youll find the information you need under S for Shingles. Need to

install a toilet? You can go the Table of Contents and look for the toilet listing among the Plumbing entries. Or, youcan simply flip through to the T section of the book and there youll find Toilets, located right between Tile

and Trim. If youre not sure what to call your project (is it Installing carpet or Carpet installation?) you canfind a direct page reference to either (and many more) in our handy list of Keywords starting on page 584.

Were very excited about this new way of organizing and presenting home improvement information.We believe you will find it to be intuitive and extremely easy to use, especially in those situations where you

simply want to get to the point as quickly as possible. But heres the real reason youll be glad to have this book

in your home: once you find the material youre looking for, you will be amazed by the quality and depth of

the information. We may have based our organization of the book on how most of us search for informationonline, but luckily we did not base our information on what youll find online. With crystal-clear how-to photosand complete step-by-step instructions. The Book of Home How-Tois as reliably instructive as it is heavy.From plumbing to wiring to home repair, every DIY project in this book has been produced by experts under

the watchful eye of BLACK+DECKER, the most trusted name in home DIY. Thats why, for over 25 years,

BLACK+DECKERhas been the most trusted name in DIY books, too.


10/602

B

OO

S

8 T H E B O O K O F H O M E H O W - T O

Preparing a concrete floor for carpet, laminate,vinyl, or wood flooring has been simplified bythe introduction of new subfloor products that have

built-in vapor barriers and cleats that create a slight airgap between the subfloor and the concrete slab. Thissystem allows air to circulate, protecting the finished

flooring from any slab moisture. The new dry-floorsubfloor systems are less than one inch thick and are

very easy to install. There are several types of these

dry-floor systems available, but the one most readilyavailable and easiest to use is a product sold in 2 2

feet tongue-and-groove squares.Although subfloor panels can be adjusted for

slight irregularities in the concrete slab, they cantovercome problems with a floor that is badly cracked

and heaved. Nor is the built-in air gap beneath thesystem a solution to a basement that has serious waterproblems. A badly heaved slab will need to be leveled

with a cement-based leveling compound, and serious

water problems will need to be rectified before you

consider creating finished living space in a basement.Allow the subfloor panel squares to acclimate in

the basement for at least 24 hours with the plasticsurfaces facing down before installing them. In

humid summer months, the squaresas well as the

finished wood flooring product, if thats what youll beinstallingshould be allowed to acclimate for a full

two weeks before installation.The old way of installing subfloor (plywood over

2 4 sleepers) does make a sturdy floor and has the

advantage of not requiring any special productsyoucan do it with materials found at any building center.

Instead of a subfloor and plywood underlayment,some flooring requires an isolation layer to separate it

from the concrete basement floor. These are most ofteninstalled with ceramic floors.

If your concrete basement floor has cracks, holes, or

other imperfections, address them before installing flooring.

Concrete basement floors have a high utility value, butwhenever possible youll want to cover them to improve

livability in your new basement rooms. Some floor coverings

can be installed directly over the concrete, but in most cases

you should lay subfloor panels and underlayment before

installing the floor covering. A system like the one above is ideal

for basements because it can be removed readily: the laminate

strip flooring snaps together and apart; the underlayment is

unbonded and can be rolled up; and the subfloor panels also

are snap-together for easy removal and re-laying.

Basement slab

Underlayment

Dry-floorsubfloorsquare

Wood laminate flooring

Shown cutawayfor clarity

Use floor leveler mix or a mortar mixture to fill in

small dips in the concrete floor.

B A S E M E N T F L O O R S

Apply Floor Leveler


11/602

9

Break up and removevery high areas or eruptions,

and patch the area with concrete that is leveled with the

surrounding surfaces. Use a rental jack hammer to break up

the concrete. A hand maul and cold chisel also may be used if

the area is not too large: most concrete basement floors are

only 3 to 4" thick.

Test the floor to see how level it is.Use a laser level to project a level line on all walls. Mark the line and then measure down

to the floor. Compare measurements to determine if floor is level. If you are installing a subfloor you can correct the unevenness by

shimming under low areas. But if the floor height varies by more than an inch or two (not uncommon), you should pour floor leveler

compound in the low areas. In more extreme examples youll need to resurface the entire floor.

Grind down high spotsif they are small and far apart. A

rented concrete grinder makes quick work of the job. Even

larger areas can be ground down, if your ceiling height is

already limited (less than 7 ft.).

L E V E L I N G B A S E M E N T F L O O R S

Laser level

Level line


12/602

1 2

1 2

B

OO

S


H O W T O R E PA I R F L O O R C R A C K S

Prepare the crackfor the repair materials by knocking away

any loose or deteriorating material and beveling the edges

down and outward with a cold chisel. Sweep or vacuum the

debris and thoroughly dampen the repair area. Do not allow

any water to pool, however.

Mix the repair productto fill the crack according to the

manufacturers instructions. Here, a fast-setting cement repair

product with acrylic fortifier is being used. Trowel the product

into the crack, overfilling slightly. With the edge of the trowel,

trim the excess material and feather it so it is smooth and the

texture matches the surrounding surface.

Cut out around the damaged areawith a masonry-

grinding disc mounted on a portable drill (or use a hammer

and stone chisel). The cuts should bevel about 15 away from

the center of the damaged area. Chisel out any loose concrete

within the repair area. Always wear gloves and eye protection.

Dampen the repair areawith clean water and then fill it

with vinyl concrete patcher. Pack the material in with a trowel,

allowing it to crown slightly above the surrounding surface.

Then, feather the edges so the repair is smooth and flat.

Protect the repair from foot traffic for at least one day and

from vehicle traffic for three days.

H O W T O PA T C H A S M A L L H O L E


13/602

1

2 3

11

H O W T O PA T C H A L A R G E H O L E

Use a hammer and chiselor a heavy floor scraper to

remove all material that is loose or shows any deterioration.

Thoroughly clean the area with a hose and nozzle or a

pressure washer.

OPTION:Make beveled cuts around the perimeter of the

repair area with a circular saw and masonry-cutting blade. The

bevels should slant down and away from the damage to create

a key for the repair material.

Mix concrete patching compoundaccording to the

manufacturers instructions, and then trowel it neatly into the

damage area, which should be dampened before the patching

material is placed. Overfill the damage area slightly.

Smooth and feather the repairwith a steel trowel so it is

even with the surrounding concrete surface. Finish the surface

of the repair material to blend with the existing surface. For

example, use a whisk broom to recreate a broomed finish.

Protect the repair from foot traffic for at least one day and

from vehicle traffic for three days.


14/602

B

S

&

C

GS


Insulating basements is a tricky topic. In colderclimates, insulation is necessary for the successfulcreation of a livable basement room. But the practice

is fraught with pitfalls that can cause a host ofproblems. But here are two pieces of advice thatare certain:

insulation than the interior foundation walls.

well drained.

Almost all of the issues surrounding basement wall

insulation have to do with moisture and water vapor.How these issues affect your plans will depend a

great deal on your climate, as well as on the specificcharacteristics of your house, your building site, andwhether or not your home was built with foundation

drains and a pumping system.Until recently, basements most often were

insulated from the inside because it is easier, faster,

and cheaper. A typical installation would be to attachfurring strips (2 2, 2 3, or 2 4) to the foundation

wall at standard wall stud spacing, and then fill inbetween the strips with fiberglass insulation batts.

A sheet plastic vapor barrier would then be stapled

over the insulated wall prior to hanging wallcoverings

(usually wallboard or paneling). Experience has shownthis model to be a poor method, very frequently leadingto moisture buildup within the wall that encourages

mold growth and has a negative impact on the indoorair quality. The building materials also tend to fail

prematurely from the sustained moisture presence.

If your basement plans require that you insulatethe foundation walls, make certain that the walls are

dry and that any moisture problems are corrected(see pages 18 to 23). Then, look first at the exterior.

B A S E M E N T S : I N S U L AT I N G

Install insulation on the exteriorof the wall, not the

interior, whenever possible. Exterior insulation results in a

warm wall that will have less of a problem with condensation.

The wall also can breathe and dry out more easily if the interior

side has no vapor retarder.

Replace old gas water heaters with high-efficiency models. Not only will this save money on your utilities bill, it will also

keep your basement warmer. The more efficient your heater is, the less air it will require for fuel combustion, which means

less fresh cold air is drawn into the basement to replace the air consumed by the appliance.

Because it is often unnecessary to insulate the fullheight of the wall, you may find that an exterior apron

insulating approach is easier than you imagined (seepages 14 to 15). If your circumstances absolutelyrequire that you insulate inside, use insulating

products such as extruded polystyrene or foil-facedisocyanurate that do not absorb water or provide food

for mold. You should also keep the wall isolated from

the insulation: attach the insulation first, seal it, andthen construct a stud wall that has no direct contact

with the concrete or concrete block wall (see pages16 to 17).

High-Efficiency Upgrades


15/602

13

H O W T O I N S U L A T E B A S E M E N T S

Install rigid foam insulationin basements, both on the

exterior and the interior. Extruded polystyrene (sometimes

called beadboard) is an economical choice for larger areas, and

it forms its own vapor retarding layer when properly installed

and sealed. High-density polystyrene and isocyanruate are

denser insulation boards with higher R-values. Isocyanurate

usually has one or two foil faces. It is used to seal rim joists but

is a good choice for any basement wall location.

Improve insulation and thermal seals in atticsand other

parts of your house to keep basements warmer in winter. By

reducing the amount of warm air that escapes through the

roof, you will reduce the amount of cold air that is drawn in

through the basement walls to replace the air.

Seal furnace ducts to reduce air leakage. Use a combination

of UL 181-rated duct tape (foil tape) and duct mastic. If cold-air

return ducts leak, for example, they will draw air from the

basement into the air supply system. As with heat loss through

the attic, this will cause fresh cold air to enter the basement

and lower the ambient temperature.

When building experts warn never to insulate a wall

that isnt dry, they have something very specific in

mind. A wall that appears dry to the touch may not

be classified as dry if it is constantly evaporating

small amounts of moisture that will be blocked if

you install any kind of vapor retarder (as is likely the

case). A dry wall (suitable for interior insulation) is one

that is superficially dry to the touch and also meets

these criteria:

of removing water that accumulates from

any source (this is typically in the form of a

sump pump).

to provide drainage of water away from the

house, often through the use of drain tiles and

footing drains.

What is a Dry Wall


16/602

1 2

B

S

&

C

GS


Insulate foundation walls on the exterior side (and not

the interior) whenever you can. The easiest way toaccomplish this is by installing insulation in the apron

area only, so you do not have to excavate all the way

to the bottom of the wall. By adding a layer of

horizontal insulation in the bottom of the trench,you can realize at least 70 percent of the energysavings of insulating the whole wall, while limiting

your digging to 18 inches down and 24 inches out.

Because you will be adding width to thefoundation wall by installing exterior insulation,

you will need to install flashing to cover the top ofthe insulation layer and whatever protective wall

surface you cover it with. For the project shown

here, the insulation is covered with panelized veneersiding over 1-inch-thick rigid foam insulation boards.

For extra protection, coat the cleaned walls with

a layer of bituminous coating before installing theinsulation boards.

H O W T O I N S TA L L A P R O N I N S U L A T I O N

Dig an 18 24" wide trenchnext to the wall being

insulated. Make sure to have your local utilities company flag

any lines that may be in the area first.

Coat the wall with a layer of bituminous coating once you

have cleaned it with a hose or pressure washer. The coating

simply creates another layer of moisture protection for the

basement and can be skipped if you wish.

Apron insulation is an easy and effective way to enhance

comfort in your basement without causing any major

moisture issues.

Flashing

Siding orprotective

panels

Drainagegravel

Foundationwall

Rigid foaminsulation

Sand

Drain tile tosump pump

I N S U L A T I O N S O L U T I O N : E X T E R I O R A P R O N I N S U L A T I O N


17/602

3 4

5 6

15

Install siding or another protective layer over the insulation.

Here, 2 x 4 ft. faux stone panels are being used. Once the

panels are in place, backfill the trench with dirt or gravel. Make

sure to maintain minimum slopes for runoff at grade.

Bond strips of rigid foam insulation board to the

foundation wall using a panel adhesive that is compatible with

foam. Press the tops of the boards up against the drip edge

flashing. When all the boards are installed, tape over butted

seams with insulation tape.

Line the trench with a 2"-thick layer of coarse sand, and then

strips of rigid foam insulation. The sand should slope away

from the house slightly, and the insulation strips should butt up

against the foundation wall.

Install drip edge flashingto protect the tops of the

insulation board and new siding. Pry back the bottom edge

of the siding slightly and slip the flashing flange up underneath

the siding. The flashing should extend out far enough to cover

both layers of new material (at least 112to 2").


18/602

1 2

B

S

&

C

GS


I N S U L AT I O N S O L U T I O N F O R D R Y WAL L S : I N T E R I O R WAL L I N S U L AT I O N

As a general rule, avoid insulating the interior side

of your basement walls. It is best to leave breathingspace for the concrete or block so moisture that enters

through the walls is not trapped. If your exterior

basement walls meet the definition of a dry wall (see

page 13) however, adding some interior insulationcan increase the comfort level in your basement. Ifyou are building a stud wall for hanging wallcovering

materials, you can insulate between the studs with

rigid foamdo not use fiberglass batts and do notinstall a vapor barrier. If you are building

a stud wall, its a good idea to keep the wall away fromthe basement wall so there is an air channel between

the two.

Interior insulation can be installedif your foundation walls

meet the conditions for dry walls (see page 13). It is important

to keep the framed wall isolated from the basement wall with a

seamless layer of rigid insulation board.

H OW T O I N S U L A T E A N I N T E R I O R B A S E M E N T WA L L

Begin on the exterior wallby digging a trench and installing

a 2"-thick rigid foam insulation board up to the bottom of the

siding and down at least 6" below grade. The main purpose of

this insulation is to inhibit convection and air transfer in the

wall above grade. See pages 14 to 15 for more information

on how to use flashing and siding to conceal and protect the

insulation board.

Insulate the rim joistwith strips of 2"-thick isocyanurate

rigid insulation with foil facing. Be sure the insulation you

purchase is rated for interior exposure (exterior products can

produce bad vapors). Use adhesive to bond the insulation to

the rim joist, and then caulk around all the edges with

acoustic sealant.

2" foil-facedisocyanurate

112" foil-facedisocyanurate

12" drywallmounted to2 2 frame

Cap plate

2" polystyrene

112"-deepreceptaclebox

Sole plate


19/602

3 4

5 6

17

Seal and insulate the top of the foundation wall, if it is

exposed, with strips of 112"-thick, foil-faced isocyanurate

insulation. Install the strips using the same type of adhesive

and caulk you used for the rim joist insulation.

Attach sheets of 2"-thick extruded polystyrene insulation

to the wall from the floor to the top of the wall. Make sure

to clean the wall thoroughly and let it dry completely before

installing the insulation.

Seal the gaps between the insulation boards with insulation

vapor barrier tape. Do not caulk gaps between the insulation

boards and the floor.

Install a stud wall byfastening the cap plate to the ceiling

joists and the sole plate to the floor. If you have space, allow an

air channel between the studs and the insulation. Do not install

a vapor barrier.


20/602

B

S

&

C

GS


BASEMENT S: WET WALLS

Repairing cracks restoresthe integrity of concrete foundation

walls that leak, but it is often only a temporary fix. Selecting an

appropriate repair product and doing careful preparation will

make the repair more long lasting. A hydraulic concrete repair

product like the one seen here is perfect for basement wall

repair because it actually hardens from contact with water.

extensive action. Serious water problems are typically

handled by installing footing drains or sump pumpsystems. Footing drains are installed around the

foundations perimeter, near the footing, and theydrain out to a distant area of the yard. These usually

work in conjunction with waterproof coatings on theexterior side of the foundation walls. Sump systems

use an interior underslab drainpipe to collect water

in a pit, and water is ejected outside by an electricsump pump.

Installing a new drainage system is expensiveand must be done properly. Adding a sump system

involves breaking up the concrete floor along thebasements perimeter, digging a trench, and layinga perforated drainpipe in a bed of gravel. After

the sump pit is installed, the floor is patched withnew concrete. Installing a footing drain is far more

complicated. This involves digging out the foundation,

installing gravel and drainpipe, and waterproofing thefoundation walls. A footing drain is considered a

last-resort measure.

Basement moisture can destroy your efforts tocreate functional living space. Over time, evensmall amounts of moisture can rot framing, turn

wallboard to mush, and promote the growth of moldand mildew. Before proceeding with your basementproject, you must deal with any moisture issues. The

good news is that moisture problems can be resolved,often very easily.

Basement moisture appears in two forms:

condensation and seepage. Condensation comesfrom airborne water vapor that turns to water when it

contacts cold surfaces. Vapor sources include humidoutdoor air, poorly ventilated appliances, damp walls,

and water released from concrete. Seepage is waterthat enters the basement by infiltrating cracks in the

foundation or by leeching through masonry, which isnaturally porous. Often caused by ineffective exteriordrainage, seepage comes from rain or groundwater

that collects around the foundation or from a risingwater table.

If you have a wet basement, youll see evidence

of moisture problems. Typical signs include peelingpaint, white residue on masonry (called efflorescence),

mildew stains, sweaty windows and pipes, rustedappliance feet, rotted wood near the floor, buckled

floor tile, and strong mildew odor.

To reduce condensation, run a high-capacity

dehumidifier in the basement. Insulate cold-waterpipes to prevent condensate drippage, and make sureyour dryer and other appliances have vents running to

the outside. Extending central air conditioning serviceto the basement can help reduce vapor during warm,

humid months.

Crawlspaces can also promote condensation,as warm, moist air enters through vents and meets

cooler interior air. Crawlspace ventilation is a sourceof ongoing debate, and theres no universal method

that applies to all climates. Its best to ask the local

building department for advice on this matter.Solutions for preventing seepage range

from simple do-it-yourself projects to expensive,professional jobs requiring excavation and foundation

work. Since its often difficult to determine the

source of seeping water, it makes sense to try somecommon cures before calling in professional help.

If the simple measures outlined here dont correctyour moisture problems, you must consider more


21/602

19

Improve your gutter systemand foundation grade

to prevent rainwater and snowmelt from flooding your

basement. Keep gutters clean and straight. Make sure

theres a downspout for every 50 ft. of roof eave, and extend

downspouts at least 8 ft. from the foundation. Build up the

grade around the foundation so that it carries water away

from the house.

Common causes of basement moistureinclude improper

grading around the foundation, inadequate or faulty gutter

systems, condensation, cracks in foundation walls, leaky joints

between structural elements, and poorly designed window

wells. More extensive problems include large cracks in the

foundation, damaged or missing drain tiles, a high water table,

or the presence of underground streams. Often, a combination

of factors is at fault.

Cracksin wall

Poorlydesignedwindowwell

Improper grading

Cracksin slab

Footing

Leakyjoints

Downspout

Gutter:slope toward down-spout 116" per ft.

Downspoutextension

Splash block

Grade:6 ft. from foundationslope down 1" per ft.


22/602

1

1 2

2 3

B

S

&

C

GS

2 0 T H E B O O K O F H O M E H O W - T O

H O W T O S E A L C R A C K S I N A F O U N D A T I O N WA L L

H O W T O S K I M - C O A T A F O U N D A T I O N WA L L

To repair a stable crack, chisel cut

a keyhole cut thats wider at the base

then at the surface, and no more than12" deep. Clean out the crack with a

wire brush.

To help seal against moisture,fill the

crack with expanding insulating foam,

working from bottom to top.

Mix hydraulic cement according

to the manufacturers instructions,

then trowel it into the crack, working

from the bottom to top. Apply cement

in layers no more than 14" thick, until

the patch is slightly higher than the

surrounding area. Feather cement

with the trowel until its even with the

surface. Allow to dry thoroughly.

Resurface heavily cracked masonry wallswith a water-resistant

masonry coating such as surface bonding cement. Clean and dampen the

walls according to the coating manufacturers instructions, then fill large

cracks and holes with the coating. Finally, plaster a 14" layer of the coating

on the walls using a square-end trowel. Specially formulated heavy-duty

masonry coatings are available for very damp conditions.

Scratch the surfacewith a paintbrush cleaner

or a homemade scratching tool after the coating

has set up for several hours. After 24 hours, apply a

second, smooth coat. Mist the wall twice a day for

three days as the coating cures.


23/602

21

P R E V E N T I N G M O I S T U R E I N B A S E M E N T S

Clean your gutters and patch any holes. Make sure

the gutters slope toward the downspouts at about116" per ft. Add downspout extensions and splash

blocks to keep roof runoff at least 8 ft. away from

the foundation.

Cover window wells that will otherwise allow water into a basement.

Covering them with removable plastic is the easiest way to keep them

dry. Covers on egress window wells must be easily removed from

inside (see pages 561 to 566). If you prefer to leave wells uncovered,

add a gravel layer and a drain to the bottom of the well. Clean the well

regularly to remove moisture-heavy debris.

Masonry paints and sealers, especially those that

are described as waterproof, are rather controversial

products. Some manufacturers claim that applying a coat

of their waterproof paint will create a seal that can hold

back moisture, even under light hydrostatic pressure.

Others suggest only that their product, when applied to

a basement wall, will create a skin that inhibits water

penetration from the interior side.

Masonry paints do hold up better on concrete

surfaces than other types, largely because they are higher

in alkali and therefore less reactive with cement-based

materials. But they also can trap moisture in the concrete,

which will cause the paint to fail prematurely and can

cause the concrete to degrade, especially if the water

freezes. Read the product label carefully before applyingwaterproof paint to your basement walls, and make sure

to follow the preparation protocols carefully. If you have

a foundation wall with an active water-seepage problem,

address the problem with the other methods shown in this

section, including grading and gutters. A coat of waterproof

paint is not going to make your basement drier.

Waterproof Paint


24/602

B

S

&

C

GS


D R A I N A G E S O L U T I O N : H OW T O R E - G R A D E

Establish the drainage slope.The yard around your house

should slant away from the house at a minimum slope of "

per ft. for at least 10 ft. Till the soil or add new soil around

the house perimeter. Drive a wood stake next to the house

and another 10 ft. out. Tie a level masons string between the

stakes, and then move the string down at least 2" at the end

away from the house, establishing your minimum slope.

Redistribute the soil with a steel garden rake so the grade

follows the slope line. Add topsoil at the high end if needed. Do

not excavate near the end of the slope to accommodate the

grade. The goal is to build up the yard to create runoff.

Use a grading raketo smooth out the soil so it slopes at

an even rate. Drive additional stakes and tie off slope lines

as necessary.

Tamp the soil with a hand tamper or plate compactor. Fill in

any dips that occur with fresh dirt. Lay sod or plant grass or

groundcover immediately.

A dry well is installed to

help give runoff water an

escape route so it doesnt

collect around the house

foundation. See next page.

Dry Wells for Drainage


25/602

2 3

Install the dry wellby digging a hole thats big enough to

hold a plastic trash can. Drill 1" holes through the sides and

bottom of the can every 4 to 6". Also cut an access hole at

the top of the can for the drain tile. Set the can in the hole

and insert the free end of the tile. Backfill dirt over the tile

and trench and plant grass or cover with sod.

D R A I N A G E S O L U T I O N : H OW T O I N S TA L L A D R Y W E L L

A dry well is a simple way to channel excess water

out of low-lying or water-laden areas, such as theground beneath a gutter downspout. A dry well

system (see previous page) typically consists of

a buried drain tile running from a catch basin

positioned at the problem spot to a collectioncontainer some distance away.A dry well system is easy to install and

surprisingly inexpensive. In the project shown here,

a perforated plastic drain tile carries water from acatch basin to a dry well fashioned from a plastic trash

can that has been punctured, then filled with stonerubble. The runoff water percolates into the soil as

it makes its way along the drainpipe and through the

dry well.The how-to steps of this project include digging

the trench with a shovel. If the catch basin is a long

distance from the problem area, you may want torent a trencher to dig the trench quickly. Call localutility companies to mark the location of underground

mechanicals before you start to dig.

Dig a trench (10" wide,14" deep) from the area where thewater collects to the catch basin location, sloping the trench 2"

per 8 ft. Line the trench with landscape fabric and then add a

1" layer of gravel on top of the fabric.

Set a length of perforated drain tileon the gravel

running the full length of the trench. If the trench starts at a

downspout, position a grated catch basin directly beneath

the downspout and attach the end of the drain tile to the

outlet port.


26/602

1 2

B

U

G


Slide the vanity into positionso that the back rail of the

cabinet can later be fastened to studs at both corners and in

the center. The back of the cabinet should also be flush against

the wall. (If the wall surface is uneven, position the vanity so it

contacts the wall in at least one spot, and the back cabinet rail

is parallel with the wall.)

Measure and mark the top edgeof the vanity cabinet

on the wall, then use a 4-ft. level to mark a level line at the

cabinet height mark. Use an electronic stud finder to locate the

framing members, then mark the stud locations along the line.

H O W T O I N S T A L L A VA N I T Y C A B I N E T

Stud finder

4-ft. level

Shims3" drywall screws

DrillProtective

equipment

Pencil

Carpenters level

ScrewdriverCardboard

Masking tapePlumbers putty

Tub & tile caulk

Most bathroom countertops installed today areintegral (one-piece) sink/countertop unitsmade from cultured marble or other solid materials,

like solid surfacing. Integral sink/countertops areconvenient, and many are inexpensive, but style andcolor options are limited.

Some remodelers and designers still prefer thedistinctive look of a custom-built countertop with

a self-rimming sink basin, which gives you a much

greater selection of styles and colors. Installing aself-rimming sink is very simple.

Integral sink/countertopsare made in standard sizes to fit

common vanity widths. Because the sink and countertop are

cast from the same material, integral sink/countertops do not

leak, and do not require extensive caulking and sealing.

B AT H R O O M VA N I T Y: I N S T A L L I N G

Tools & Materials


27/602

4 5

3

2 5

Run a bead of caulk along small gapsbetween the vanity

and wall, and between the vanity and floor. For larger gaps, use

quarter-round molding between the vanity and wall. Between

the vanity and floor, install the same baseboard material used

to cover the gap between the wall and floor.

At the stud locations marked on the wall, drive 3"

drywall screws through the rail on the cabinet back and into

the framing members. The screws should be driven at both

corners and in the center of the back rail.

Variation:To install two or more cabinets, set the cabinets in position against the

wall, and align the cabinet fronts. If one cabinet is higher than the other, shim under

the lower cabinet until the two are even. Clamp the cabinet faces together, then drill

countersunk pilot holes spaced 12" apart through the face frames so they go at least

halfway into the face frame of the second cabinet. Drive wood screws through the

pilot holes to join the cabinets together.

Using a 4-ft. level as a guide,shim

below the vanity cabinet until the unit

is level.


28/602

1 2

3 4

B

U

G


Drain flange

Pop-updrain lever

Sealing

gasket

H O W T O I N S TA L L A N I N T E G R A L V A N I T Y C O U N T E R T O P

Thread the locknut and sealing gasket onto the drain tailpiece,

then insert the tailpiece into the drain opening and screw it onto

the drain flange. Tighten the locknut securely. Attach the tailpiece

extension. Insert the pop-up stopper linkage.

Set the sink/countertop unit onto sawhorses. Attach the

faucet and slip the drain lever through the faucet body. Place a

ring of plumbers putty around the drain flange, then insert the

flange in the drain opening.

Center the sink/countertop unitover the vanity, so the

overhang is equal on both sides and the backsplash of the

countertop is flush with the wall. Press the countertop evenly

into the caulk.

Apply a layer of tub & tile caulk(or adhesive, if specified by

the countertop manufacturer) to the top edges of the cabinet

vanity, and to any corner braces.

Tailpieceextension

Draintailpiece

Locknut


29/602

5 6

2 7

Install the drop-in sink. Some sinks rely mostly on their own

weight to stay put, requiring only a bead of plumbers putty for

setting the sink flange. Lighter sinks are held in place with clips

from below. Its usually recommended that you attach your faucet

to the sink before installing it, and then make your hookups.

An inexpensive alternative to an integral vanity countertop is

to build your own countertop from postform laminate or another

kitchen-style countertop material. Be sure to add buildup strips

and caps to the exposed ends. Position the countertop on your

vanity cabinet and trace a cutout for the drop-in lavatory.

VA R I A T I O N : D R O P- I N S I N K S

Attach the drain armto the drain stub-out in the wall usinga slip nut. Attach one end of the P-trap to the drain arm, and

the other to the tailpiece of the sink drain, using slip nuts.

Connect supply tubes to the faucet tailpieces. Seal the gap

between the backsplash and the wall with tub and tile caulk.

Cabinets with corner braces: Secure the countertop tothe cabinet by driving a mounting screw through each corner

brace and up into the countertop. Note: Cultured marble

and other hard countertops require predrilling and a plastic

screw sleeve.

Draintailpiece

P-trap

Supply tube

Drainarm

Drainstub-out

Slip nuts


30/602

21

3 4

B

U

G


Prepare for the new tub.Inspect and remove old or

deteriorated wall surfaces or framing members in the tub area.

With todays mold-resistant wallboard products, it makes extra

sense to go ahead and strip off the old alcove wallcoverings

and ceiling down to the studs so you can replace them. This

also allows you to inspect for hidden damage in the wall and

ceiling cavities.

Check the subfloor for levelif it is not level, use pour-on

floor leveler compound to correct it (ask at your local flooring

store). Make sure the supply and drain pipes and the shutoff

valves are in good repair and correct any problems you

encounter. If you have no bath fan in the alcove, now is the

perfect time to add one.

Check the height of the crossbracesfor the faucet body

and the showerhead. If your family members needed to

stoop to use the old shower, consider raising the brace for

the showerhead. Read the instructions for your new faucet/

diverter and check to see that the brace for the faucet body

will conform to the requirements (this includes distance from

the surround wall as well as height). Adjust the brace locations

as needed.

Begin by installing the new water supply plumbing.

Measure to determine the required height of your shower riser

tube and cut it to length. Attach the bottom of the riser to the

faucet body and the top to the shower elbow.

Faucet body

Heatproofmat

Riser tube

B AT H T U B S : I N S TA L L I N G


31/602

65

7 8

2 9

Attach the faucet body to the cross bracewith pipe

hanger straps. Then, attach supply tubing from the stop valvesto the faucet body, making sure to attach the hot water to the

left port and cold to the right port. Also secure the shower

elbow to its cross brace with a pipe strap. Do not attach the

shower arm yet.

Slide the bathtub into the alcove.Make sure tub is flat on

the floor and pressed flush against the back wall. If your tubdid not come with a tub protector, cut a piece of cardboard to

line the tub bottom, and tape pieces of cardboard around the

rim to protect the finish from shoes and dropped tools.

Mark locations for ledger boards.To do this, trace the

height of the top of the tubs nailing flange onto the wall studs

in the alcove. Then remove the tub and measure the height of

the nailing flange. Measure down this same amount from your

flange lines and mark the new ledger board location.

Install 1 4 ledger boards.Drive two or three 3"-galvanized

deck screws through the ledger board at each stud. All three

walls should receive a ledger. Leave an open space in the wet

wall to allow clearance for the DWO (drain-waste-overflow) kit.

Measure to see whether the drain will line up with the tubs

DWO. If not, you may need to cut and reassemble the drain.

(continued)


32/602

109

11 12

B

U

G


Install the drain-waste-overflow pipes before you install

the tub. Make sure to get a good seal on the slip nuts at thepipe joints. Follow the manufacturers instructions to make

sure the pop-up drain linkage is connected properly. Make sure

rubber gaskets are positioned correctly at the openings on the

outside of the tub.

Thread the male-threaded drain strainerinto the

female-threaded drain waste elbow. Wrap a coil of plumbersputty around the drain outlet underneath the plug rim first.

Hand tighten only.

Attach the overflow coverplate,making sure the pop-up

drain controls are in the correct position. Tighten the mounting

screws that connect to the mounting plate to sandwich

the rubber gasket snugly between the overflow pipe flange

and the tub wall. Then, finish tightening the drain strainer

against the waste elbow by inserting the handle of a pair of

pliers into the strainer body and turning.

Working with a helper, place the tub in position, taking

care not to bump the DWO assembly. If the DWO assembly

does not line up with the drainpipe, remove the tub and adjust

the drain location. Many acrylic, fiberglass, and steel tubs will

have a much firmer feeling if they are set in a bed of sand-mix

concrete. Check manufacturers instructions, and pour concrete

or mortar as needed. Set the tub carefully back in the alcove.

Drain strainer


33/602

1413

15 16

31

Attach the drain outletfrom the DWO assembly to the drain

P-trap. This is the part of the job where you will appreciate thatyou spent the time to create a roomy access panel for the

tub plumbing. Test the drain and overflow to make sure they

dont leak. Also test the water supply plumbing, temporarily

attaching the handles, spout, and shower arm so you can

operate the faucet and the diverter.

Drive a 112" galvanized roofing nailat each stud location,

just over the top of the tubs nailing flange. The nail headshould pin the flange to the stud. Be careful herean errant

blow or overdriving can cause the enameled finish to crack

or craze. Option: You may choose to drill guide holes and nail

through the flange instead.

Install the wallcoverings and tub surround(see pages

386390 for a 3-piece surround installation). You can also make

a custom surround from tileboard or cementboard and tile.

Install fittings.First, thread the shower arm into the shower

elbow and attach the spout nipple to the valve assembly. Also

attach the shower head and escutcheon, the faucet handle/

diverter with escutcheon, and the tub spout. Use thread

lubricant on all parts.


34/602

B

U

G


B AT H T U B S : S L I D I N G T U B D O O R S

Curtains on your bathtub shower are a hassle.If you forget to tuck them inside the tub, waterflows freely onto your bathroom floor. If you forget to

slide them closed, mildew sets up shop in the folds.And every time you brush against them, they stick toyour skin. Shower curtains certainly dont add much

elegance or charm to a dream bath. Neither does adeteriorated door. Clean up the look of your bathroom,

and even give it an extra touch of elegance, with a new

sliding tub door.When shopping for a sliding tub door, you have a

choice of framed or frameless. A framed door is edgedin metal. The metal framing is typically aluminum

but is available in many finishes, including those thatresemble gold, brass, or chrome. Glass options are also

plentiful. You can choose between frosted or pebbled

A sliding tub doorframed in aluminum gives the room a sleek, clean look and is just one of the available options. A model like this fits into

a 60" alcove, so it can replace a standard tub, as long as you can provide access to the plumbing and an electrical connection.

Measuring tape

PencilHacksaw

Miter boxLevel

Drill

Center punchRazor blade

Marker

Masonry bit for tile wallPhillips screwdriver

Caulk gunMasking tape

Silicone sealant & remover

Tub door kitProtective equipment

glass, clear, mirrored, tinted, or patterned glass.

Doors can be installed on ceramic tile walls or onto afiberglass tub surround.

Tools & Materials


35/602

3

21

4

3 3

Remove the existing doorand inspect the walls. Use a

razor blade to cut sealant from tile and metal surfaces. Do not

use a razor blade on fiberglass surfaces. Remove remaining

sealant by scraping or pulling. Use a silicone sealant remover

to remove all residue. Remove shower curtain rods, if present.

Check the walls and tub ledge for plumb and level.

Measure the distance between the finished walls

along the top of the tub ledge. Refer to the manufacturers

instructions for figuring the track dimensions. For the product

seen here, 316" is subtracted from the measurement to

calculate the track dimensions.

Using a hacksaw and a miter box,carefully cut the track

to the proper dimension. Center the track on the bathtub ledge

with the taller side out and so the gaps are even at each end.

Tape into position with masking tape.

Place a wall channel against the wallwith the longer

side out and slide into place over the track so they overlap.

Use a level to check the channel for plumb, and then mark

the locations of the mounting holes on the wall with a marker.

Repeat for the other wall channel. Remove the track.

(continued)

H O W T O I N S TA L L S L I D I N G T U B D O O R S


36/602

65

7 8

B

U

G


Drill mounting holes for the wall channel at the marked

locations. In ceramic tile, nick the surface of the tile with a

center punch, use a 14" masonry bit to drill the hole, and then

insert the included wall anchors. For fiberglass surrounds, use

a 18" drill bit; wall anchors are not necessary.

Apply a bead of silicone sealantalong the joint between

the tub and the wall at the ends of the track. Apply a minimum14" bead of sealant along the outside leg of the track underside.

Position the track on the tub ledge and against the wall.

Attach the wall channels using the provided screws. Do not

use caulk on the wall channels at this time.

Cut and install the header.At a location above the tops

of the wall channels, measure the distance between the

walls. Refer to the manufacturers instructions for calculating

the header length. For the door seen here, the length is the

distance between the walls minus 116". Measure the header

and carefully cut it to length using a hacksaw and a miter box.

Slide the header down on top of the wall channels until seated.

Header

Wallchannel


37/602

109

11 12

3 5

Mount the rollers in the roller mounting holes. To begin, use

the second-from-the-top roller mounting holes. Follow the

manufacturers instructions for spacer or washer placement

and orientation.

Carefully lift the inner panelby the sides and place

the rollers on the inner roller track. Roll the door toward the

shower end of the tub. The edge of the panel should touch

both rubber bumpers. If it doesnt, remove the door and move

the rollers to different holes. Drive the screws by hand to

prevent overtightening.

Lift the outer panelby the sides with the towel bar facing

out from the tub. Place the outer rollers over the outer roller

track. Slide the door to the end opposite the shower end of

the tub. If the door does not contact both bumpers, remove the

door and move the rollers to different mounting holes.

Apply a bead of clear silicone sealantto the inside seam

of the wall and wall channel at both ends and to the U-shaped

joint of the track and wall channels. Smooth the sealant with a

fingertip dipped in water.

Roller


38/602

21

OO

S


C

Variation: On concrete, use wider tackless strips. Using a masonry bit, drill pilot holes through the strips and into the floor. Then

fasten the strips with 112" fluted masonry nails.

Use aviation snips to cut tackless strips to fit around

radiators, door moldings, and other obstacles.

Starting in a corner, nail tackless strips to the floor, keeping

a gap between the strips and the walls thats about 23the

thickness of the carpet. Use plywood spacers to maintain the

gap. Angled pins on the strip should point toward the wall.

C A R P E T: I N S T A L L I N G


39/602

3

21

3 7

H O W T O I N S TA L L C A R P E T PA D D I N G

Variation: To fasten padding to a concrete floor, apply double-

sided tape next to the tackless strips, along the seams, and in

an X pattern across the floor.

Tape the seams together with duct tape, then staple the

padding to the floor every 12".

Roll out enough paddingto cover the entire floor. Make

sure the seams between the padding are tight. If one face

of the padding has a slicker surface, keep the slick surface

face up, making it easier to slide the carpet over the pad

during installation.

Use a utility knifeto cut away excess padding along

the edges. The padding should touch, but not overlap, the

tackless strips.


40/602

21

OO

S


C

H O W T O C U T & S E A M C A R P E T

Variation: When cutting loop-pile carpet, avoid severing the loops by cutting it from the top side using a row-running knife. Fold

the carpet back along the cut line to part the pile (left) and make a crease along the part line. Lay the carpet flat and cut along the

part in the pile (right). Cut slowly to ensure a smooth, straight cut.

At the opposite wall, mark the back of the carpet at each

edge about 6" beyond the point where the carpet touches the

wall. Pull the carpet back away from the wall so the marks

are visible.

Position the carpet roll against one wall, with its loose

end extending up the wall about 6", then roll out the carpet

until it reaches the opposite wall.


41/602

65

43

3 9

(continued)

Using your seaming plan as a guide, measure and cut

fill-in pieces of carpet to complete the installation. Be sure

to include a 6" surplus at each wall and a 3" surplus on each

edge that will be seamed to another piece of carpet. Set the

cut pieces in place, making sure the pile faces in the same

direction on all pieces.

Next to walls, straddle the edge of the carpet and nudge it

with your foot until it extends up the wall by about 6" and is

parallel to the wall.

Snap a chalk lineacross the back of the carpet between the

marks. Place a scrap piece of plywood under the cutting area

to protect the carpet and padding from the knife blade. Cut

along the line using a straightedge and utility knife.

At the corners, relieve buckling by slitting the carpet with a

utility knife, allowing the carpet to lie somewhat flat. Make sure

that corner cuts do not cut into usable carpet.


42/602

98

7

OO

S


C

On smaller carpet pieces,cut straight seam edges where

the small pieces will be joined to one another. Dont cut the

edges that will be seamed to the large carpet piece until after

the small pieces are joined together.

Using a straightedge and utility knife, carefully cut the

carpet along the chalk line. To extend the cutting lines to the

edges of the carpet, pull the corners back at an angle so they

lie flat, then cut the line with the straightedge and utility knife.

Place scrap wood under the cutting area to protect the carpet

while cutting.

Roll back the large piece of carpet on the side to be seamed, then use a chalk line to snap a straight seam edge about 2" from

the factory edge. Keep the ends of the line about 18" from the sides of the carpet where the overlap onto the walls causes the

carpet to buckle.


43/602

11

10

41

(continued)

Set the iron under the carpetat one end of the tape until the adhesive liquifies, usually about 30 seconds. Working in 12"

sections, slowly move the iron along the tape, letting the carpet fall onto the hot adhesive behind it. Set weights at the end of the

seam to hold the pieces in place.

Plug in the seam ironand set it aside to heat up, then

measure and cut hot-glue seam tape for all seams. Begin by

joining the small fill-in pieces to form one large piece. Center

the tape under the seam with the adhesive side facing up.

Option: Apply a continuous bead of seam glue along the cut

edges of the backing at seams to ensure that the carpet will

not fray.


44/602

12

13

OO

S


C

Continue seaming the fill-in pieces together. When the tapes adhesive has cooled, turn the seamed piece over and cut

a fresh seam edge as done in steps 7 and 8. Reheat and remove about 112" of tape from the end of each seam to keep it from

overlapping the tape on the large piece.

Variation: To close any gaps in loop-pile carpet seams, use a

knee kicker to gently push the seam edges together while the

adhesive is still hot.

Press the edges of the carpet together into the melted

adhesive behind the iron. Separate the pile with your fingers to

make sure no fibers are stuck in the glue and the seam is tight,

then place a weighted board over the seam to keep it flat while

the glue sets.


45/602

16

1514

4 3

To fit carpet around partition walls where the

edges of the wall or door jamb meet the floor, make

diagonal cuts from the edge of the carpet at the

center of the wall to the points where the edges of

the wall meet the floor.

At radiators, pipes, and other obstructions, cut slits in

the carpet with a utility knife. Cut long slits from the edge

of the carpet to the obstruction, then cut short cross-slits

where the carpet will fi t around the obstruction.

If youre laying carpet in a closet,cut a fill-in piece and join

it to the main carpet with hot-glue seam tape.

Use hot-glue seam tapeto join the seamed pieces to the

large piece of carpet, repeating steps 10 through 12.

Partition Walls


46/602

3

21

OO

S

4 4 T H E B O O K O F H O M E H O W - TO

C

H O W T O ST R E T C H & S E C U R E C A R P E T

Use a power stretcherto stretch the carpet toward the wall opposite the door. Brace the tail with a length of 2 4 placed across

the doorway. Leaving the tail in place and moving only the stretcher head, continue stretching and securing the carpet along the

wall, working toward the nearest corner in 12 to 24" increments.

If the doorway is close to a corner, use the knee kicker to

secure the carpet to the tackless strips between the door and

the corner. Also secure a few feet of carpet along the adjacent

wall, working toward the corner.

Before stretching the seamed carpet,read through this

entire section and create a stretching sequence similar to the

one shown here. Start by fastening the carpet at a doorway

threshold using carpet transitions (see pages 50 to 51).


47/602

6

54

4 5

(continued)

Reposition the stretcher so its tail is against the center of the wall you just secured. Stretch and secure the carpet along the

opposite wall, working from the center toward a corner. If theres a closet in an adjacent wall, work toward that wall, not the closet.

With the power stretcherstill extended from the doorway

to the opposite side of the room, knee-kick the carpet onto the

tackless strips along the closest wall, starting near the corner

closest to the stretcher tail. Disengage and move the stretcher

only if its in the way.

As you stretch the carpet,secure it onto the tackless strips

with a stair tool and hammer.


48/602

98

7

OO

S


C

Reposition the stretcher to secure the carpet along the last

wall of the room, working from the center toward the corners.

The tail block should be braced against the opposite wall.

Return the head of the power stretcher to the center of

the wall. Finish securing carpet along this wall, working toward

the other corner of the room.

Use the knee kicker to stretch and secure the carpet inside the closet (if necessary). Stretch and fasten the carpet against the

back wall first, then do the side walls. After the carpet in the closet is stretched and secured, use the knee kicker to secure the

carpet along the walls next to the closet. Disengage the power stretcher only if its in the way.


49/602

11

10

47

Use a carpet edge trimmerto trim surplus carpet away

from the walls. At corners, use a utility knife to finish the cuts.

Tuck the trimmed edgesof the carpet neatly into the gaps between the tackless strips and the walls using a stair tool and hammer.

Locate any floor ventsunder the stretched carpet,

then use a utility knife to cut away the carpet,

starting at the center. Its important that this be done

only after the stretching is complete.

Making Cutouts


50/602

1 2 3

OO

S


C

C A R P E T : R E PA I R I N G

Remove extensive damage or stains

with the cookie-cutter tool (available

at carpeting stores). Insert double-

face carpet tape under the cutout,

positioning the tape so it overlaps the

patch seams.

Use a cookie-cutter toolto cut

a replacement patch from scrap

carpeting. Press the cutter down over

the damaged area and twist it to cut

away the carpet.

Press the patch into place. Make

sure the direction of the nap or pattern

matches the existing carpet. To seal

the seam and prevent unraveling,

apply seam adhesive to the edges of

the patch.

Burns and stains are the most common carpetingproblems. You can clip away the burned fibers ofsuperficial burns using small scissors. Deeper burns

and indelible stains require patching by cutting awayand replacing the damaged area.Another common problem, addressed on the

opposite page, is carpet seams or edges that havecome loose. You can rent the tools necessary for fixing

this problem.

Cookie-cutter toolKnee kicker

4" wallboard knifeUtility knife

Seam ironSeam adhesive

Replacement carpetingDouble-face carpet tape

Heat-activated seam tapeWeights

Boards

Stained or damaged carpet can be replaced with

specialized tools and DIY techniques.

H O W T O R E P A I R S P O T D A M A G E

Tools & Materials


51/602

1 2

1 2

49

Adjust the knob on the head of the knee kicker so theprongs grab the carpet backing without penetrating through

the padding. Starting from a corner or near a point where the

carpet is firmly attached, press the knee kicker head into the

carpet, about 2" from the wall.

Thrust your knee into the cushion of the knee kicker toforce the carpet toward the wall. Tuck the carpet edge into the

space between the wood strip and the baseboard using a 4"

wallboard knife. If the carpet is still loose, trim the edge with a

utility knife and stretch it again.

Remove the old tapefrom under the carpet seam. Cut a

strip of new seam tape and place it under the carpet so its

centered along the seam with the adhesive facing up. Plug in

the seam iron and let it heat up.

Pull up both edges of the carpet and set the hot iron

squarely onto the tape. Wait about 30 seconds for the glue to

melt. Move the iron about 12" farther along the seam. Quickly

press the edges of the carpet together into the melted glue

behind the iron. Separate the pile to make sure no fibers are

stuck in the glue and the seam is tight. Place weighted boards

over the seam to keep it flat while the glue sets. Remember,

you have only 30 seconds to repeat the process.

H O W T O R E S T R E T C H L O O S E C A R P E T

H O W T O G L U E L O O S E S E A M S


52/602

OO

S


Hardwood threshold

Hot-glue seam tape

Tackless strip tuck-under

Metal carpet bar

Doorways, entryways, and other transition areasrequire special treatment when installingcarpet. Transition materials and techniques

vary, depending on the level and type of the

adjoining flooring.For a transition to a floor thats the same height

or lower than the bottom of the carpet, attach ametal carpet bar to the floor and secure the carpet

inside the bar. This transition is often used where

carpet meets a vinyl or tile floor. Carpet barsare sold in standard door-width lengths and in

longer strips.For a transition to a floor thats higher than the

carpet bottom, use tackless strips, as if the adjoining

floor surface was a wall. This transition is commonwhere carpet meets a hardwood floor.

For a transition to another carpet of the sameheight, join the two carpet sections together with hot-

glue seam tape.For a transition in a doorway between

carpets of different heights or textures, install

tackless strips and a hardwood threshold (below).Thresholds are available predrilled and ready to

install with screws.

C A R P E T: T R A N S I T I O N S T R I P S

C


53/602

321

321

51

H O W T O M A K E T R A N S I T I O N S W I T H T A C K L E S S S T R I P S

H O W T O M A K E T R A N S I T I O N S W I T H M E T A L C A R P E T B A R S

Tuck the edge of the carpet into the

gap between the tackless strip and the

existing floor using a stair tool.

Use a straightedge and utility knife

to trim the excess carpet. Stretch the

carpet toward the strip with a knee

kicker, then press it onto the pins of the

tackless strip.

Install a tackless strip,leaving a gap

equal to 23the thickness of the carpet

for trimming. Roll out, cut, and seam

the carpet. Mark the edge of the carpet

between the tackless strip and the

adjoining floor surface about 18" past the

point where it meets the adjacent floor.

Use a knee kickerto stretch the

carpet snugly into the corner of thecarpet bar. Press the carpet down onto

the pins with a stair tool. Bend the

carpet bar flange down over the carpet

by striking it with a hammer and a block

of wood.

Roll out, cut, and seam the carpet.

Fold the carpet back in the transitionarea, then mark it for trimming. The

edge of the carpet should fall 18to 14"

short of the corner of the carpet bar so

it can be stretched into the bar.

Measure and cut a carpet bar to fit

the threshold using a hacksaw. Nail thecarpet bar in place. In doorways, the

upturned metal flange should lie directly

under the center of the door when

its closed.


54/602

OO

S


C

Carpet tilescombine the warmth and comfort of carpet with do-it-yourself installation, custom designs, and easy replacemen

black & decker the book of home how to - the complete photo guide to home repair & improvement

Documents