Bolivia

Isabel Albiston, Michael Grosberg, Mark Johanson

Lake Titicaca

& AroundLa Paz

p107& Yungas

p232the Chaco

p253Gran Chiquitania

Santa Cruz &

p179Highlands

p88

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p286Amazon Basin

Bolivia &South Central

p142Altiplano

The Cordilleras

Central

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Welcome to Bolivia . . . . . 4Bolivia Map . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Bolivia’s Top 12 . . . . . . . . . 8Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 14First Time Bolivia . . . . . . 16If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . 18Month by Month . . . . . . .20Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 22Bolivia Outdoors . . . . . . . 28Eat & Drink Like a Local . . . . . . . . . . . 35Travel with Children . . . .40Regions at a Glance . . . .42

LA PAZ & AROUND . . . . . . . . . 46La Paz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48Around La Paz . . . . . . . . 81Valle de la Luna . . . . . . . . 81Muela del Diablo . . . . . . . . 81Mecapaca . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82Valle de las Ánimas . . . . . 83Cañón de Palca . . . . . . . . . 83Cerro Chacaltaya . . . . . . . 84Tiwanaku . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84

LAKE TITICACA . . . . . 88Copacabana . . . . . . . . . . . 90Copacabana to Yampupata . . . . . . . . . . 98Isla del Sol . . . . . . . . . . . . 100Isla de la Luna . . . . . . . . . 105Huatajata . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105Islas de Wiñaymarka . . . 106Isla Kalahuta . . . . . . . . . . 106Isla Pariti . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106Isla Suriqui . . . . . . . . . . . 106

THE CORDILLERAS & YUNGAS . . . . . . . . 107Cordillera Real . . . . . . 109Huayna Potosí . . . . . . . . . 110Condoriri Massif . . . . . . . . 111Ancohuma . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112Illimani . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112Chachacomani . . . . . . . . . 113The Yungas . . . . . . . . . . 113Coroico & Yolosa . . . . . . . 114El Choro Trek . . . . . . . . . . 120Takesi Trek . . . . . . . . . . . . 122Yunga Cruz Trek . . . . . . . 123Chulumani . . . . . . . . . . . . 124

Around Chulumani . . . . . 126Guanay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128El Camino del Oro . . . . . 128Sorata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130Aucapata & Iskanwaya . . . . . . . . . . 134Cordillera Apolobamba . . . . . . . . 135Charazani . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135Área Natural de Manejo Integrado Nacional Apolobamba . . . . . . . . . . 139Cordillera Quimsa Cruz . . . . . . . . . . 141

SOUTHERN ALTIPLANO . . . . . . . 142Oruro & the North . . . 143Oruro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143Around Oruro . . . . . . . . . 153Curahuara de Carangas . . . . . . . . . . 153Parque Nacional Sajama . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154Uyuni & the Southwest Circuit . . . 156Uyuni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159Salar de Uyuni . . . . . . . . .167Los Lípez . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169Tupiza & Around . . . . . . 171Tupiza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171Around Tupiza . . . . . . . . . 177

CENTRAL HIGHLANDS . . . . . . 179Cochabamba . . . . . . . . 181Around Cochabamba . . . . . . . . 194Parque Nacional Tunari . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194

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ON THE ROAD

UNDERSTAND

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Contents

Eastern Cochabamba Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194Tarata & Huayculli . . . . . 194Incallajta . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195Totora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196Mizque . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196Parque Nacional Torotoro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .197Sucre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201Around Sucre . . . . . . . 213Tarabuco . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213Cordillera de los Frailes . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214Potosí . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219

SOUTH CENTRAL BOLIVIA & THE CHACO . . . . . 232South Central Bolivia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234Tarija . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234El Valle de la Concepción . . . . . . . . . . . 246Reserva Biológica Cordillera de Sama . . . . 248Padcaya & Chaguaya . . . 250The Chaco . . . . . . . . . . 251Villamontes . . . . . . . . . . . 251

SANTA CRUZ & GRAN CHIQUITANIA . . . . . 253Santa Cruz . . . . . . . . . . 255Around Santa Cruz . . . . . . . . . . 266Buena Vista . . . . . . . . . . . 266Parque Nacional & Área de Uso Múltiple Amboró . . . . . . . 267

Samaipata . . . . . . . . . . . . 269Vallegrande . . . . . . . . . . . 274La Higuera . . . . . . . . . . . . 276Gran Chiquitania . . . . 277Jesuit Mission Circuit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278

AMAZON BASIN . . . 286Chapare Region . . . . . 290Villa Tunari . . . . . . . . . . . . 290Parque Nacional Carrasco . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292Puerto Villarroel . . . . . . . 293Western Bolivian Amazon . . . . . . . . . . . . 294Rurrenabaque . . . . . . . . . 294Parque Nacional Madidi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301San Borja . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302Reserva de la Biosfera y Estación Biológica del Beni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303San Ignacio de Moxos . . . . . . . . . . . . . 305Eastern Bolivian Amazon . . . . . . . . . . . . 307Trinidad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307Northern Bolivian Amazon . . . . . . . . . . . . 313Santa Ana de Yacuma . . . . . . . . . . . . 313Barba Azul Reserve . . . . 314Guayaramerín . . . . . . . . . 314Riberalta . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315Riberalta to Cobija . . . . . 318Cobija . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318

Bolivia Today . . . . . . . . 320History . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322Life in Bolivia . . . . . . . 331Indigenous Culture . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333Music in Bolivia . . . . . 337The Natural World . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . 344Transportation . . . . . . 352Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 359Language . . . . . . . . . . . 364Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 376Map Legend . . . . . . . . . 383

SPECIAL FEATURESLa Paz City Walk . . . . . . .59

La Paz Markets . . . . . . . .62

Andean Camelids . . . . . 157

Salar de Uyuni & Southwest Circuit Tours . . . . . . . . . 162

Itineraries

BOLIVIA

CHILE

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PA C I F I CO C E A N

LakeTiticaca

Best of Bolivia

This bare-bones itinerary will take you to the best of Bolivia – from colorful markets to stark salt plains to a city in the sky – at a head-rattling pace.

Start with a day of acclimatization in La Paz, visiting the markets. History buffs can take a side trip to Tiwanaku. From La Paz, head to Lake Titicaca. Allow up to three days on the lake to take in the sites of Copacabana and Isla del Sol and continue acclimatization. From there, circle down the altiplano (via La Paz) to the Salar de Uyuni for a bone-chatteringly cold three-day jeep tour. Extend your trip to the for-mer territory of Butch Cassidy in the pleasant cowboy town of Tupiza.

Swing up to Potosí, a starkly beautiful Unesco World Heritage city, situated at 4070m, where you can visit the mint and mines. After a day or two, head to the white city of Sucre to hang out with students in grand plazas. Return to La Paz via Cocha-bamba, taking in the views along the way. On your last day in La Paz, consider a day of museum-hopping or take a mountain-bike ride down the World’s Most Dangerous Road to Coroico.

2 WEEKS

22 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Top: Parque Nacional Sajama (p154)

Bottom: At the Fiesta de la Virgen de

Guadalupe (p207)

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With one week to play with, this itinerary allows time to get a taste of life in an Andean city and take in the awe-inspiring scenery of the Salar de Uyuni.

Fly into La Paz and spend two days exploring the city’s museums and galleries while you acclimatize. Soak in the atmosphere of the Andean markets, dine at La Paz’s excellent restaurants, and dip into the city’s coffee and bar scene. Zip up in the teleférico to see the unusual architecture of the neighborhood of El Alto, then visit a peña (folk-music venue) in La Paz’s Casco Viejo neighborhood. If you have time, consider a day trip to see the ruins at Tiwanaku, where you’ll find carved monoliths, archways and arcades, and two museums. From La Paz, take a flight to Uyuni to pick up a three-day jeep tour to the salar (salt desert). Get your camera and your plastic dinosaur ready for photos that play with perspective on the endless white crusty sur-face of the salt flats, and for snaps of spectacular sunsets. Brave the cold to gaze at the stars in the dark night sky.

Continue via the colored lakes of Los Lípez, with stops to spot flighty flamingos and geysers, and to take a dip in some thermal springs, before looping back through the otherworldly landscape of the Desierto de Dalí to Uyuni. If you can cope with the altitude, consider adding a volcano climb to your itinerary; custom tours can include a hike up Volcán Licancabur (5960m) or Volcán Tunupa (5432m). Spend a night in Uyuni to rest after the tour, before catching a bus to Potosí. Take a day or two to wander the streets and check out the city’s museums and mines. If you have time, take the bus back to La Paz, breaking the journey in Oruro. This gritty mining city has some quirky museums and there are opportunities for day trips to neighbor-ing villages. Alternatively, catch a flight from Potosí to La Paz.

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Set aside five weeks to acclimatize to the high altitude, take in one of Bolivia’s signature treks, climb a peak, do a mountain-bike trip or simply dive into Bolivian culture.

From La Paz you can choose from a variety of day trips, including a visit to Tiwanaku or hiking in nearby Chacaltaya or Valle de la Luna. The adventurous can take on the Takesi or Choro treks, or ride a bike (or bus) down the World’s Most Dangerous Road to Coroico in the Yungas. Next head north to Rurrenabaque and the famous Parque Nacional Madidi – depending on your time and budget you can get here by land, air or boat. Take the time to explore this wild, little-trodden utopia. From ‘Rurre,’ take a bus to Trinidad, where you can kick back for a few days, eat-ing river fish and seeing a museum or two, before heading by plane or bus to Santa Cruz. From here you’ll kick off a multiday road trip through the Jesuit Mission Circuit, curling back around via Santa Cruz to the unique ruins near the hippie vil-lage of Samaipata and the spectacular Parque Nacional & Área de Uso Múltiple Amboró. Head up to Cochabamba for good market buys. From there you’ll start gaining some altitude as you pass through the culturally charged towns of Sucre and Potosí. After you’ve had your fill of these colonial masterpieces, cruise down to wine country near Tarija for a few days of warm weather, wine and chilled-to-perfection zen. You can then loop across to Tupiza for a day or two of mountain biking, while you arrange your four-day Salar de Uyuni trip, going the back way to avoid the crowds. On the way back toward La Paz, adventurous spirits may wish to stop near Curahuara de Carangas, before heading on to the high-plains wonderland of Parque Nacional Sajama, where hot springs and wildlife watching await.

If you still have time, continue through La Paz to Copacabana for a day or two of beachfront fun on Lake Titicaca. Cruise over on the ferry, stopping at Isla de la Luna for an afternoon on your way to Isla del Sol. It’d be easy to spend five days here, trek-king to lost valleys, ruins and small indigenous villages.

5 WEEKS

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More than half of Bolivia’s territory lies in the Amazon, and yet this is one of the least visited parts of the country. Waterway adventures here are good (and wet) in the rainy season, but if you plan on any type of road travel you should stick with the dry months.

Start in Santa Cruz, a sophisticated and cosmopolitan city with a dreamy (some-times steamy) climate and tropical atmosphere. Dip into the urban culture for a while and party with the rich kids in the discotecas, or take a day trip to nearby gardens or waterfalls. From here fly or catch the overnight bus to Trinidad, a growing town with a pretty plaza. Stay in town for a bit, whirl around on a motorcycle for a local fish meal, take a visit to a museum or two and have a much-needed siesta or three – it gets hot.

A three-hour bus ride will take you to the Jesuit mission village of San Ignacio de Moxos – if possible, plan your trip around the town’s colorful, not-to-be-missed fes-tival in July. From here, wildlife watchers should make a detour via El Porvenir into Reserva de la Biosféra Estación Biológica del Beni, where the trained eye can spot up to 500 unique species of birds, including a cornucopia of herons and egrets, along with prayerful cormorants, with wings spread in apparent supplication. There are around 100 different mammals in the reserve, which is also home to the Chimane tribe.

It’s a long slog from here via San Borja to Rurrenabaque, hammock country, from where you can set out for a couple of days on a jungle or pampas tour. One option is to get your jungle fill at the San Miguel del Bala ecoresort, just upriver from Rurre-nabaque. Whatever you do, don’t miss a trip to Parque Nacional Madidi. Bolivia’s best-known national park offers a week’s- or a lifetime’s-worth of adventures in over 1.8 million hectares. The park’s remarkable biodiversity is best enjoyed at a slow pace and you should leave enough time to stay in the highly regarded, community-run Chalalán Ecolodge.

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Exploring the Amazon

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This trip will get you away from the main tourist track and into Bolivia’s warm south-ern comforts. Along the way, there are a few hiking options, interesting cultural centers and energetic cityscapes.

Start with a few days of partying in Santa Cruz, Bolivia’s second city. It’s great fun just wandering around the streets as you soak up camba (lowland) culture. Next make your way out of the city for a week-long dusty adventure through the Jesuit Mission Circuit, a series of beautiful missions where baroque music and faith meld with the chilled-out culture of the Guaraní. Cruise back through Santa Cruz on your way to the pre-Inca ruins at Samaipata and wildlife watching at Parque Nacional & Área de Uso Múltiple Amboró. From the park (backtracking via Samaipata and Santa Cruz), make your way down to the relaxed wine-country town of Tarija. After a few days in town, you can customize the tail end of your adventure, with hikes along the Inca Trail in the Reserva Biológica Cordillera de Sama or in any of the numerous national parks and reserves unique to the Chaco region.

3 WEEKS Southeast Bolivia

Trapped between the heights of the Andes and the Amazon, this fascinating area is a trekking, climbing, hiking and biking wonderland.

Getting here is half the fun. Trekkers can start from outside La Paz, traveling by foot via the Takesi or Choro treks into the heart of the Yungas. You can also get into the Southern Yungas on a butt-busting daylong mountain-bike ride down the World’s Most Dangerous Road. Be sure to spend a few days at the end of your descent in the pleasant Yungas villages of Coroico or Chulumani, both of which offer plenty of day hikes, swimming options and a chilled-out traveler vibe. From there, it’s back to the capital and on to climbing and trekking in the Cordillera Real, stopping in the cool-air, soft-spirited Andean town of Sorata. Adventurers could take on any number of treks from Sorata. There are also good mountain-bike adventures or you can head up to the glaciated peaks of the Cordillera. If you have the time, extend your journey to the seldom-visited Cor-dillera Apolobamba for visits with lost tribes, wildcat miners and loads of deep wilderness trekking.

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The Cordilleras & YungasSoutheast Bolivia

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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help­ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Alain Verhasselt, Aleksandra Ur-banowska, Dennis Hamann, Eileen Finkelstein, Filip Vandamme, Gaëtan Coatanroch, Hannako Bakker, Iris Bos, Jeanne Marie Thomas, Johan-na Grau, Kim de Oude, Laura Halbach, Lucie Dabos, Mariska Helmus, Michael Bech, Nicolas Combremont, Ole Brederlau, Olga Cirera, Peter Dullnig, Ramón de la Rosa Steinz, Robert Mar-tyniecki, Sean Romero, Siu-yin Cheung, Stela Prodanovic, Susan Spronk, Tim Laslavic

WRITER THANKS Isabel AlbistonHuge thanks to everyone who helped me on the road, especially Juan Carlos Vargas, Natasha Gamboa, Daniel Cahill, Paula Nina, Leo Lino, Gonzalo Sandoval, Goyo Surriable, Sandra Gilbert, Inez Daza, Javier Huarachi and Nick, and the many others whose names I don’t recall. Gracias also to Bailey Freeman, Michael Grosberg and Mark Johanson. It was a great project to work on!

Michael GrosbergI’m so grateful to all of the many people who helped me along the road, including Hector, Jaime and Edith in Tarija; Daniel, Zulma and Bismark from Condor Trekkers in Sucre; Rene from El Mundo Verde Travel in Cochabamba; and Vincent and Julia from Valle de los Condores; as well as other travelers along the road. And always to Rosie and Carly and Boone for their support.

Mark JohansonMuchas gracias to all the Bolivian people who warmed my heart and filled my belly. Thanks to Felipe Bascuñán for allowing me to be gone from home for so many weeks and to Tomas Sivila, María Fernanda Alandia, Alex Villca Lima-co, Raul Mendoza, Augusto Aruquipa Coromi, Rosa Maria Ruiz and Jose Antonio Diaz for being fountains of knowledge along the way.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.Cover photograph: Murals and women wearing traditional clothing, Aldo Pavan/4Corners ©

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

BEHIN

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THIS BOOK This 10th edition of Lonely Planet’s Bolivia guidebook was researched and written by Isabel Albiston, Michael Gros-berg and Mark Johanson. The previous edition was written by Michael Grosberg, Brian Kluep-fel and Paul Smith. The 8th edition was written by Greg Benchwick and Paul Smith, and Professor Henry S Klein

was a contributing author. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Bailey FreemanSenior Product Editor Saralinda TurnerRegional Senior Carto­grapher Corey HutchisonProduct Editor Hannah CartmelBook Designer Jessica Rose

Assisting Editors Janet Austin, Michelle Bennett, Jacqueline Danam, Victoria Harrison, Kellie Langdon, Jodie Martire, Susan Paterson, Maja VatrićAssisting Cartographers Laura Bailey, Anita BanhCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Shona Gray, Anne Mason, Jenna Myers, Kathryn Rowan

376

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

4WD tours 32

AAbra Chucura 121accessible travel 344accommodations 344-5,

see also individual locations

activities 20-1, see also individual activities

addresses 348adventure sports 18, 28-34Afro-Bolivian people 127Aiquile 198air travel 352-3, 354alpacas 157Amazon Basin 44, 286-318,

288-9accommodations 286climate 286food 286history 287travel seasons 286travel to/from 287, 290

Ancohuma 112Andean condors 250animal sanctuaries

La Senda Verde Wildlife Sanctuary 114

animals 340api con pastel 62, 63archaeological sites, see

also Inca sites, ruinsBatea Q’ocha Rock

Paintings 199Coquesa 169Dinosaur Tracks 197El Fuerte 270Incallajta 195-6Llanos de Moxos 306

Parque Cretácico (Cal Orck’o) 204

Pukara de Monterani 154Quila Quila 218-31Sea Fossils 198-9Tiwanaku 84-7

area codes 349Área Natural de Manejo

Integrado Nacional Apolobamba 139-40

Argentina, travel to 248art 19artisan crafts 18-19Atlantis 103ATMs 347Aucapata 134-5Aymará people 87, 90, 336

language 369religious beliefs 334

BBarba Azul Reserve 314basilicas, see churches,

basilicas, chapels & convents

beachesCha’lla (Isla del Sol) 100Copacabana Beach 91La Pajcha 272Río Surutú 266Santiago de Okola (Isla

de la Luna) 105Benedición De Movilidades

95biking, see cyclingbiodiversity 303bird-watching 34, 312

Area Protegida Municipal Aquicuana 316

Bird Bolivia 259Conservación Loros

Bolivia 309Lomas de Arena 261Reserva Biológica

Cordillera de Sama 250

boat travel 129, 354, see also kayaking

boat tripsPuerto Villarroel 293Trinidad 309, 311

books 320border crossings 352, 353

Argentina 178, 248Brazil 284, 317Chile 167Paraguay 251

Brazil, travel to 284, 317budget 15Buena Vista 266-7bus travel 353-4business hours 347-8

CCala Cala 153camelids 157camiones 357Candelaria 207canoeing, see white-water

raftingcanyoneering 34, 57, 116,

290canyons

Cañón de Palca 83-4Cañón de Torotoro 198Cañón del Duende 178El Vergel 198Pilcomayo Canyon 252Valle de la Luna 81Valle de las Ánimas 83

car travel 32, 354, 356-7Carnaval 20

Oruro 151Santa Cruz 259Tarija 244

Cassidy, Butch 176castles & palaces

Palacio Portales 184Palacio Quemado

(Burned Palace) 48, 55

cathedralsCochabamba 185Concepción 280Copacabana 91La Paz 55Potosí 223Riberalta 316Sucre 203Tarija 237Trinidad 309

cavesCaverna de Umajalanta

198Cavernas del Repechón

292Gruta de Lourdes 99Gruta de San Pedro 130Icla 207Las Cuevas de

Miserendino 279Las Cuevas del Rio San

Cristobal 130cell phones 14, 350Cementerio de Trenes 159cemeteries

Cementerio Municipal 205

La Paz Cemetery 49Central Highlands 43, 179-

231, 180accommodations 179climate 179food 179history 180-1travel seasons 179

Cerro Chacaltaya 84Cerro Rico 224, 228Chachacomani 113Chaco, the, see South

Central Bolivia & the Chaco

Chaguaya 250-1Cha’lla 102Cha’llapampa 102Chapacos people 239, 244

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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–E

Chapare 290-4charangos 198, 19Charazani 135-8Chichas people 172-3children, travel with 40-1Chile, travel to 167Chipaya people 158, 323,

336Chiquitano people 278,

285, 336Chochís 283chullpas 153Chulumani 124-6churches, basilicas,

chapels & convents, see also cathedrals

Basílica de San Francisco 235

Basílica Menor de San Lorenzo 255

Capilla de Lajas 242Capilla de Nuestra

Señora de Jerusalén 223

Capilla de la Virgen de Guadalupe 203

Capilla Sixtina del Altiplano 153

Colonial Church (Quila Quila) 218

Convento de San Felipe Neri 203

Convento de Santa Teresa (Cochabamba) 184-5, 187

Convento de Santa Teresa (Sucre) 205-6

Iglesia de la Merced 224Iglesia de los Santos

Desposorios 266Iglesia de San Francisco

(La Paz) 49Iglesia de San Francisco

(Sucre) 206Iglesia de San Ignacio

281Iglesia de San Juan 237Iglesia de San Pedro

195Iglesia de San Roque

237Iglesia de San Xavier

279Iglesia de Santa Ana 283Iglesia de Santa Mónica

206Iglesia Indígena de San

Pedro 52Iglesia Parroquial de

S.I. 305

Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco 185

Iglesia y Museo de San Lorenzo de Carangas 223

Jesuit Mission Church (San José de Chiquitos) 284

Jesuit Mission Church (San Miguel de Velasco) 282

Jesuit Mission Church (San Rafael de Velasco) 284

Portada del Beaterio 147

Santuario de la Virgen del Socavón 143

Santuario Mariano de la Torre 283

Templo Nuestra Señora de la Merced 205

Torre de la Compañía de Jesús 223

cinemasCochabamba 191La Paz 74Oruro 150Potosí 229Santa Cruz 263Sucre 211

climate 14, 20-1, 14 see also individual regions

climbing & mountaineering 28, 29, 31, 58

Ancohuma 112Andes 34Cerro Tunari 194Cordillera Quimsa

Cruz 141Cordillera Real 109-

10, 111Curahuara de Carangas

154La Paz 58, 60Museo Antropológico

Eduardo López Rivas 147

Parque Nacional Sajama 154-5

Sucre 206tours 357-8volcanoes 165

Cobija 318coca 118, 291Cochabamba 181-93, 182

accommodations 186-8drinking & nightlife 191

entertainment 191festivals & events 186food 188-90, 192history 183-4shopping 191sights 184-6tourist information 191-2tours 186travel to/from 193travel within 193

Colchani 168Concepción 280-1Condoriri Massif 111-12conquistadors 324consulates 345convents, see churches,

basilicas, chapels & convents

cooperative mines 224, 228

safety 227Copacabana 90-98, 92, 99

accommodations 94-5border crossings 98drinking & nightlife 97festivals & events 93-4food 96-8history 90-1information 97-8shopping 97sights 91-2tours 92travel to/from 98

Coquesa 169Cordillera Apolobamba

135-41, 136-7Cordillera de los Frailes

214-31, 216-17tours 215

Cordillera Quimsa Cruz 141Cordillera Real 10, 109-

13, 10Cordilleras & Yungas, the

43, 107-41, 108climate 107highlights 108history 109travel seasons 107travel to/from 109-41

Coroico & Yolosa 114-20, 115

accommodations 116-19activities 114-16drinking & nightlife 120food 119-20sights 114tours 116

counterfeits 347courses

language 58, 147, 186, 206, 346

music 58yoga 58

credit cards 347Cristo de la Concordia 184cultural centres

Casa Melchor Pint 255culture 320-1, 331-2Curahuara de Carangas

153-4currency 14cycling 28, 354, see

also mountain bikingCopacabana 94Tarija 238Trinidad 310World’s Most Dangerous

Road 117, 33

Ddance 335-6

Carnaval 151, 244tinku 230

departure tax 353Desierto de Dalí 171Día de los Muertos 64drinking water 360drinks 35-9

Eeastern Bolivian Amazon

307-13economy 320Ekeko 66El Alto 76El Angosto 178El Camino del Oro 128-30el chaqueo 342El Choro trek 120-2, 121El Valle de la Concepción

246-8, 247electricity 346embassies 345environment 339-42environmental hazards

362environmental issues

154, 340el chaqueo 342endangered species 341Lago Poopó 154Lake Titicaca 90Río Choqueyapu 64

378

IND

EX E–J

events, see festivals & events

exchange rates 15

Ffestivals & events 20-1,

337, see also religious festivals

Aymará 61, 87Cochabamba 186Copacabana 93-4El Valle de la

Concepción 247food 291La Paz 61-2Mizque 197music 239, 259, 305Pachamama 225Parque Nacional

Torotoro 199Potosí 225-6rodeo 240San Ignacio de Moxos

305-6Santa Cruz 259Sucre 206-7Tarabuco 213Tarija 239-40theater 259Tiwanaku 87Totora 196Trinidad 310Uyuni 159Vallegrande 275Villa Tunari 291wine 247, 239

Fiesta de la Cruz 20Fiesta de La Virgen de

Candelaria 20, 23Fiesta del Santo Patrono

de Moxos 21fishing 252, 290, 293,

305, 316films 320flamingos 139, 154, 170,

248, 2food 35-9, 346, 37, 39forests 156four-wheel driving 32

Ggalleries, see museums &

galleries

gardens, see parks & gardens

geology 340-1geysers

Parque Nacional Sajama 155

Sol de Mañana 170Gran Chiquitania,

see Santa Cruz & Gran Chiquitania

Gran Poder 21guanacos 157Guanay 128Guaraní people 258, 333,

336Guayaramerín 314-15Guevara, Che 274, 275, 277

Ruta del Che 276

Hhaciendas

El Picacho 235Hacienda Cayara 231Hacienda El Cafetal 266La Posada del Inca 104Samay Huasi 219

health 359-63Heyerdahl, Dr Thor 104hiking & trekking 10, 18,

28-9, 31Ancohuma Overnight

Hike 112Chachacomani 113Copacabana 94, 99-100Condoriri Massif

Overnight Hike 111-12Coroico & Yolosa 114-15Cordillera Apolobamba

135Cordillera de los Frailes

214-18Cordillera Quimsa

Cruz 141Cordillera Real 10,

109-13, 10El Camino del Oro

128-30El Choro Trek 120-2, 121Huayna Potosí Overnight

Hike 110-11Illimani Overnight Hike

112-13Irupana to Ocabaya Day

Hike 126-7Isla de la Luna 105Isla del Sol 100La Paz 58, 60Lagunillas to Agua

Blanca Trek 139-40

Parque Nacional & Área de Uso Múltiple Amboró 268-9

Parque Nacional Carrasco 293

Parque Nacional Sajama 155

Reserva Biológica Cordillera de Sama 248-9

Reserva de la Biosferay Estación Biológicadel Beni 304

Santiago de Chiquitos 279

Sorata 131Sucre 206Takesi Trek 122-3, 124tours 257-8Yunga Cruz Trek 123-4

historic buildingsCasa de las Tres

Portadas 224Castillo de Moisés

Navajas 238El Cabildo (Potosí) 221Los Ingenios 225Palacio Consistorial 195Villa Albina 188

history 18, 322-30Hospital Señor de Malta

274-5Parque Histórico Santa

Cruz la Vieja 285Quebrada del Churo 277

hitchhiking 357holidays 348-9horseback riding 34

Reserva de la Biosferay Estación Biológicadel Beni 304

Tupiza 173-4hot springs

Parque Nacional Sajama 155

Tarapaya 226Termas de Charazani

Phutina 137Termas de Obrajes 153Termas de Polques 170

Huatajata 105-6Huayculli 194-5Huayna Potosí 110-11

IIcla 207Illimani 112-13, 19immigration 352Inca empire 323-4

Incallajta 195-6Inca sites, see also

archaeological sites, ruins

Copacabana 91El Fuerte 270-1Incallajta 195-6Isla del Sol 102Llamachaki 199Templo de las Vírgenes

105independence 326Independence Day 21indigenous culture 333-6indigenous reserves

TCO Tsimané 304indigenous groups 336,

see also individual groups

Chichas 172-3Chipaya 158, 323, 336Chiquitanos 278, 285,

336Guaraní 258, 333, 336Kallawaya 137, 138,

335, 336Tacana 294, 299, 302

infectious diseases 359insurance 346, 359internet access 346internet resources 15,

349, 362Iskanwaya 134-5Isla de la Luna 100, 105Isla del Sol 10, 100-5, 101,

5, 10accommodations 102-4food 104-5travel to/from 104travel within 105

Isla Incahuasi 167-8Isla Kalahuta 106Isla Pariti 106Islas de Wiñaymarka 106itineraries 22-7, 22, 24,

25, 26, 27

Jjaguars 281Jal’qa people 218Jardín Botánico 65Jesuit Mission Churches

San José de Chiquitos 284

San Miguel de Velasco 282

San Rafael de Velasco 284

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

379IN

DEX J–

MJesuit Mission Circuit 13,

278-85, 13

KKalasasaya 86-7Kallawaya people 137, 138,

335, 336kayaking 32-4, see also

white-water rafting, individual locations

LLa Ceja 57La Festividad de Nuestro

Señor Jesús del Gran Poder 21

La Higuera 276-7Lago Poopó 154Lake Titicaca 42, 88-106,

89, 2accommodations 88climate 88food 88highlights 89history 89travel seasons 88travel to/from 90

lakes, see also Lake Titicaca

La Angostura 185-6Laguna Colorada 170Laguna Hedionda 170, 2Laguna Huañakota 155Laguna Isirere 305Laguna Normandia 303Laguna Verde 171Lagunas de Kari Kari

226San Jacinto Reservoir

236-7Tajzara Lagoons 248

La Paz 11, 42, 46-87, 47, 50-1, 54-5, 61, 83, 11, 62, 63

accommodations 46, 64-8

activities 57-8climate 46courses 58drinking & nightlife 72-3entertainment 73-5festivals & events 61-4food 46, 68-72highlights 47history 48information 76-9internet resources 79

markets 62-3, 62, 63orientation 75planning 48safety 77shopping 75-6sights 48-57travel seasons 46travel to/from 79-81travel within 80-1walking tours 59, 59

languages 14Aymará 369courses 147, 346Quechua 369Spanish 364-73

Las Islas Flotantes 94legal matters 346LGBT+ travelers 346-7lithium 170llamas 157, 41Llanos de Moxos 306lomas 306, 309lookouts, see viewpointsLos Lípez 169-71lustrabotas 72

Mmacaws 277, 312, 9maps 347Marka Pampa 103markets 11, 62-3

El Mercado de los Campesinos 235

La Cancha 185Mercado 16 de Julio 63Mercado Camacho 62-3Mercado Central

(Potosí) 228-9, 37Mercado de las Brujas

63, 63Mercado Lanza 62, 62Mercado Negro 62, 17Mercado Uruguay 63Sucre 212Tarabuco Sunday Market

213measures 348Mecapaca 82medical services 359Mercado Central (Potosí)

228-9, 37Mercado de las Brujas

63, 63Mercado Lanza 62, 62mestiza dress 335Mi Teleférico 78

micros 357minibuses 357mining 129, 143, 170, 224

environmental issues 321

nationalisation of 320tours 224, 227, 228

Mizque 196-7mobile phones 14, 350Mojeño people 336money 14, 15, 17, 346, 347monuments

Cerro Corazón de Jesús 173

Cristo de la Concordia 184

Faro de Conchupata 147Monumento Escultérico

Virgen del Socavón 143

Morales, Evo 321, 329-30coca and 109, 118indigenous people

and 333national psyche and 331

motorcycle travel 354, 356-7

mountain biking 31-2, see also cycling

Cerro Chacaltaya 84Coroico & Yolosa 115-16Huayna Potosí 110La Paz 57-8Mizque 197Sorata 130-2World’s Most Dangerous

Road 117, 23mountaineering,

see climbing & mountaineering

mountains 339-40Cerro Calvario 91

Muela del Diablo 81-2museums & galleries 258

Calle Jaén Museums 53Casa de la Cultura

Simón Patiño 146Casa de la Libertad 201Casa Dorada 237Casa Nacional de la

Moneda 221-2Fundación Solón 49Mamani Mamani Gallery

53Municipal Museum 173Museo Arqueología y

Antropológico de los Andes Meridionales 159

Museo Arqueológico 271Museo Arqueológico de

la UMSS 185Museo Casa Arte Taller

Cardozo Velasquez 147Museo Casa Natal

German Busch 279Museo Cerámico 87Museo Comunal La

Higuera 277Museo de Arqueología y

Paleontología 237Museo de Arte

Contemporáneo 255Museo de Arte Indígena

201Museo de Etnografía y

Folklore 53Museo de Historia

Natural Alcide d’Orbigny 185

Museo de Historia Regional 255

Museo de Instrumentos Musicales 55

Museo de Kusijata 91Museo de la Coca 49Museo de la Recoleta

203-4Museo de la Revolución

Nacional 55-6Museo de Mojos 305Museo de Santa Clara

205Museo de Textiles

Andinos Bolivianos 53Museo del Charango

198Museo del Che 274Museo del Poncho 91Museo del Tesoro 201Museo Eclesiástico de

Sucre 203Museo Elsa Paredes de

Salazar 49Museo Etnoarqueológico

Kenneth Lee 307-8Museo Ferrocarril 159Museo Franciscano

Fray Francisco Miguel Mari 235

Museo Gutiérrez Valenzuela 205

Museo Ictícola 308Museo Lítico

Monumental 85Museo Militar 153-4Museo Misional (San

Xavier) 279Museo Misional

(Concepción) 280

380

IND

EX M–

R

museums & galleries continued

Museo Misional de Ignacio de Velasco 282

Museo Nacional de Etnografía y Folklore 201

Museo Nacional de Arqueología Tiwanaku 56

Museo Nacional del Arte 53

Museo Pacha Uta 91Museo Sacro, Folklórico,

Arqueológico y Minero 146

Museo San Francisco 49Museos Universitarios

205Museo Tambo

Quirquincho 49, 52Museo y Convento de

San Francisco 223Museo y Convento de

Santa Teresa 222-3Museum (San José de

Chiquitos) 285Pachamama Wasi 199Pipiripi 55Salar Galería de Arte 49Templete Semisub-

terráneo & Museo al Aire Libre 56-7

music 320, 335, 337-8Afro-Bolivian saya 127baroque music festival

305Festival de Música Misi-

ones de Chiquitos 259instruments 18, 75, 239 La Paz 73-4Las Flaviadas 73Museo de Instrumentos

Musicales 55peñas 73-4Sucre 211Tarija 239, 244

Nnational parks & nature

reserves 342Amazon Basin 287Area Protegida

Municipal Aquicuana 316

Barba Azul Reserve 314Lomas de Arena 261Parque Nacional &

Área de Uso Múltiple Amboró 267-9, 267

Parque Nacional Carrasco 292-3

Parque Nacional Madidi 9, 301-2, 9

Parque Nacional Sajama 154-6, 155, 23, 35

Parque Nacional Serranía del Aguaragüe 252

Parque Nacional Torotoro 197-201

Parque Nacional Tunari 194

Reserva Biológica Cordillera de Sama 248-50

Reserva de la Biosfera y Estación Biológica del Beni 303-5

Reserva Nacional de Fauna Andina Eduardo Avaroa 170

Reserva Nacional de Flora y Fauna Tariquía 250

Reserva Privada de Patrimonio Natural de Corbalán 252

Santuario Chuchini 307Serere Eco Reserve 300

nature 339-42newspapers 348northern Bolivian Amazon

313-18Núñez del Prado, Marina

73nuns 187

Oobservatories

Santa Ana Astronomical Observatory 235

opening hours 347-8Oruro 143-52, 146-7

accommodations 148-9drinking & nightlife 150entertainment 150food 149-50shopping 150-1sights 143-7tours 147travel to/from 152travel within 152

outdoor adventures 28-34

PPachamama 90, 225-6,

334Padcaya 250-1palaces, see castles &

palacesParaguay, travel to 251parks & gardens

Biocentro Güembé 261Jardín Botánico 65, 261Parque Bolívar 205Parque El Arenal 258Parque Pantanal 308Paseo Turístico La

Costanera 316Parque Nacional & Área de

Uso Múltiple Amboró 267-9, 267

Parque Nacional Carrasco 292-3

Parque Nacional Madidi 9, 301-2, 9

Parque Nacional Sajama 154-6, 155, 23, 35

Parque Nacional Torotoro 197-201

Parque Nacional Tunari 194

peñasLa Paz 73-4Potosí 229

photography 348planning 16-17

Bolivia’s regions 42-4calendar of events 20-1children, travel with 40-1itineraries 22-7

plants 341-2population 321post 348Potosí 13, 219-31, 220-

1, 13accommodations 226-7drinking & nightlife 229entertainment 229festivals & events 225-6food 227-9history 219-21shopping 229sights 221-5tourist information

229-31tours 225travel to/from 231travel within 231

pozasVilla Tunari 290

propane heaters 345protests 77, 184, 321,

332, 349public holidays 348-9Puerto Villarroel 293-4Pujllay 20Pulacayo 166

QQuebrada Palala 177Quebrada Palmira 178Quechua people 336

language 369

Rradio 348rafting 32-3, 116

tours 60Villa Tunari 290-1

religion 321, 332religious festivals

Alasitas Festival 93Exaltación de la Santa

Vera Cruz 226Festival de San Antonio

291Fiesta de la Cruz 93Fiesta de la Virgen de

Candelaria 93Fiesta de la Virgen de

Guadalupe 207Fiesta de la Virgen de

Urkupiña 186Fiesta de las Flores 240Fiesta de Moxos 305Fiesta de San Roque

240Fiesta del Señor

Santiago 199Día de los Muertos (La

Paz) 64La Festividad de Nuestro

Señor Jesús del Gran Poder 64

Santa Veracruz Tatala 186

Semana Santa (Copacabana) 93

Todos Santos 207Reserva Biológica

Cordillera de Sama 248-50

Reserva de la Biosfera y Estación Biológica del Beni 303-5

Riberalta 315-18river dolphins 340, 341

Puerto Villarroel 293Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

381IN

DEX R

–TReserva de la Biosfera y

Estación Biológica del Beni 304

tours 295Trinidad 307, 309

river travel 129, 309, 311rivers

Amazon 26, 311Inter-Andean Valleys

240Río Choqueyapu 64Río Coroico 116Río Huarinilla 116Río Surutú 266

rock climbing, see climbing

rodeo 240ruins 94, see also

archaeological sites, Inca sites

Akapana Pyramid 85Cerro Kopakati 91Chari 137El Fuerte 270Horca del Inca 91Intikala 91Iskanwaya 135Isla de la Luna 105Isla del Sol 100-2Kantatayita 86Llamachaki 199Megaphones 85Puerta del Sol 86Pukara 135Puma Punku 86Putuni 86Templete

Semisubterráneo 86Templo de las Vírgenes

105Tiwanaku 84-7

Rurrenabaque 129, 294-301, 296-7

Ssafety 349Salar de Chiguana 169-70Salar de Coipasa 163, 168Salar de Uyuni 9, 167-9,

168, 8, 30tours 162-3, 164

salt flats 167salt hotels 169Samaipata 11, 269-74,

270, 11Sampaya 98San Borja 302-3

San Cristóbal 171San Ignacio de Moxos

305-7San Ignacio de Velasco

281-2San José de Chiquitos

284-5San Lorenzo 242San Miguel de Velasco

282-3San Rafael de Velasco

283-4San Xavier 279-80San Xavier 279-80Santa Ana de Velasco 283Santa Ana de Yacuma

313-14Santa Cruz 255-65Santa Cruz & Gran

Chiquitania 44, 253-85, 254, 256-7

accommodations 253, 259-60

climate 253day trips 261drinking & nightlife 262entertainment 262-3festivals & events 259food 253, 260-2orientation 263shopping 263sights 255-8tourist information

263-4tours 258-9travel seasons 253travel to/from 264-5travel within 265

Santa Teresa convent 184-5, 187

Santiago de Okola 105Semana Santa 20Serere Eco Reserves 300shopping 349smoking 348snakes 363sopa de maní 39, 243, 37Sorata 130-4, 132South Central Bolivia &

the Chaco 44, 232-52, 233

accommodations 232climate 232food 232travel seasons 232

Southern Altiplano 43, 142-78, 144-5

climate 142

highlights 144-5history 143travel seasons 142travel to/from 143

Southwest Circuit tours 162-3, 174

Spanish conquest 324-5Spanish language 364-8sports 332statue of Christ 121Sucre 11, 201-13, 202-3, 11

accommodations 207-9drinking & nightlife

210-11entertainment 211festivals & events 206-7food 209-10shopping 211sights 201-6tourist information 212tours 206travel to/from 212-13travel within 213

Sud Lípez Lakes 171swimming

Buena Vista 266Cañon de Torotoro 198Club Náutico 316El Cairo 266El Chorro 294El Encuentro 114El Vagante 114El Vergel 198Inter-Andean Valleys

240La Pajcha 272Laguna Isirere 305Paso Retamas 129Piscina El Mirador 294Riberalta 316Rurrenabaque 294Villa Tunari 290

TTacana people 294, 299,

302Takesi Trek 122-3, 124-5tap water 360Tarabuco 213-14Tarata 194-5Tarija 12, 234-46, 236-7,

247, 12accommodations 241-2activities 238-9drinking & nightlife

244, 245

festivals & events 239-40

food 242-4history 234-5sights 235-8tourist information 245tours 239travel to/from 245-6travel within 246

taxis 357TCO Tsimané 304teleféricos

Cochabamba 184La Paz 78Oruro 143

telephone services 349-50Termas de Obrajes 153Termas de Polques 170, 30textiles 334-5theaters

International Theater Festival 259

Teatro Adela Zumudio 191

Teatro al Aire Libre Mauro Nuñez 211

Teatro del Charango 74Teatro Gran Mariscal de

Ayacucho 211Teatro Municipal Alberto

Saavedra Pérez 74Teatro NUNA 74

time 350Tinku 230Tiquipaya 196Tiwanaku 12, 84-7, 12toilets 350Totora 196totora-reed boats 104tourist information 350tours 357-8

4WD 32bird-watching 259Copacabana 93Coroico 116Huatajata 105-6jungle 295La Paz 60-1pampas 295Salar de Uyuni 162-3Sorata 131-2Southwest Circuit

162-3, 174wildlife watching 309,

310wine tours 239Yolosa 116

382

IND

EX T–Z

train travel 358travel to/from Bolivia

352-4travel within Bolivia 354-8trekking see hiking &

trekkingTrinidad 307-13, 308trufis 357Tupac Amaru, Andrés

130, 324Tupiza 12, 171-7, 172, 12TV 348

UUyuni 159-67, 160

accommodations 160-3border crossings 167drinking & nightlife 164festivals & events 159food 164medical services 165shopping 164-5sights 159tours 159travel to/from 166

Vvaccination 17

Brazil, for 284, 317, 353Valle de la Luna 81Valle de las Ánimas 83-4Vallegrande 274-6Valles de Rocas 171

vicuñas 157viewpoints 81

Cerro de la Cruz 173Convento de San Felipe

Neri 203El Sillar 177Mirador Laikakota 55Mirador Loma de San

Juan 235Mirador Palla Khasa 102Mirador Wila Kollu 130Observatorio de Aves

248Parque Histórico Santa

Cruz la Vieja 285Plaza del Folklore

Stairway 147Tupac Katari Mirador 57

Villa Albina 188Villa Tunari 290-2villages

Chari 137Colchani 168San Buenaventura 294Sicuani 99Titicachi 98Totaizal 304Yampupata 99Yumani 100

Villamontes 251-2visas 14, 350-1volcanoes 165volunteering 351

Wwalking, see hiking &

trekkingwalking tours

La Paz 59water 360waterfalls

Cataratas del Suton 285Chorros de Jurina 240Coimata Falls 240El Chorro 294El Chorro Grande 252Incacancha 140Inter-Andean Valleys

240La Colina 279La Pajcha 272Las Cuevas 272

weather 14, 20-1, 14 see also individual regions

weights 348western Bolivian Amazon

294-307white-water rafting 32-4,

116wildlife 340-2wildlife reserves

Parque Machía 290wildlife watching 18, 34

Riberalta 316Tarija 238Trinidad 309Yunga Cruz Trek 123

wine 12, 249El Valle de la Concepción

246-8, 247festival 247tasting 12, 12tours 239

work 351World’s Most Dangerous

Road 117, 33

YYampupata 98-100yellow fever 361-2, see

also vaccinationsyoga 57, 58, 238Yolosa, see Coroico &

YolosaYunga Cruz Trek 123-4Yungas, the see Cordilleras

& Yungas, the

Zziplining

Rurrenabaque 294zoos

Zoo El Refugio 271Zoológico Municipal

Fauna Sudamericana 258

383

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway/Subte stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

CampingHut/Shelter

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkelingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

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Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 98310th edition – June 2019ISBN 978 1 786574 732© Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 201910 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Isabel AlbistonSouthern Altiplano, Santa Cruz & Gran Chiquitania After six years working for the Daily Telegraph in London, Isabel left to spend more time on the road. A job as writer for a magazine in Sydney, Australia, was followed by a four-month overland trip across Asia and five years living and work-ing in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Isabel started writing for Lonely Planet in 2014 and has contributed to 10 guidebooks. She’s currently based in Madrid, Spain. Isabel

also wrote the Plan, Understand and Survival Guide chapters.

Michael GrosbergCentral Highlands, South Central Bolivia & the Chaco Michael has worked on over 50 Lonely Planet guidebooks. Other international roles have included development work on Rota in the western Pacific, and teach-ing in Quito, Ecuador. He has also worked in South Africa, where he investigated and wrote about political violence, and trained newly elected government repre-sentatives. He received a Masters in Comparative Literature, and has taught

literature and writing as an adjunct professor.

Mark Johanson Lake Titicaca, The Cordilleras & Yungas, La Paz & Around, Amazon Basin Mark Johanson grew up in Virginia and has called five different countries home over the last decade while circling the globe reporting for British newspapers (The Guardian), American magazines (Men’s Journal) and global media outlets (CNN, BBC). When not on the road, you’ll find him gazing at the Andes from his current home in Santiago, Chile. Follow his adventures at www.markjohanson.com

OUR WRITERS

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