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    by Amanda Brandellero

    european cultural foundation

    Crossing cultural borders? Migrants and ethnic diversity in thecultural industries.

    Amsterdam Institute for Metropolitan and International Development StudiesUniversity of Amsterdam

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    Crossing cultural borders?

    Migrants and ethnic diversity in thecultural industries.

    by Amanda Brandellero 

    EAN 9789062820535

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    Table of contents

    List of tables and gures

    Foreword

    Acknowledgements

    Prologue

    1. Introduction

    Structure of the report

    Methodology

    2. Cultural industries in perspective

    Dening the sector

      Cultural industries: from art to industry?

      Exploring the cultural industries’ production chain and networks

    3. Negotiating the cultural industries’ opportunity structure

      Cultural industries and the diverse metropolis

      Mediation in the cultural industries

      Ethnicity, culture and diversity  Institutional approaches to ethnicity and diversity

    4. Migrants in the cultural industries

      Perspectives on migrant ‘cultural entrepreneurs’

      Framework for the analysis of migrant cultural entrepreneurship

    market typologies

    Cultural industries: the diversity of a sector

      Architecture

      Fashion

      Music

    5. Across cultural borders: reections from the eldwork

      1. The extent to which ethnic diversity is activated as symbolic and

    aesthetic fuel to drive innovation in processes of commodication of

    culture.

      2. The dynamics through which the mediation of tastes and trends within

    the cultural industries comes to shape the boundaries between

    ethnic/non-ethnic cultural products.

      3. Exploring how ethnic diversity matters in the cultural industries.

    6. Conclusions and recommendations

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    Annex 1. Portraits

    Annex 2. Questionnaire guide

    Annex 3. Bibliography

    Annex 4. List of CPRA jury members

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    Maame Baryeh collection. Photo by Jordan Matyka

    Cultural industries production chain

    Rene Sanchez, Cap Verdian music record shop owner

    Posters at La Chapelle show the vibrancy of the Paris music scene

    François Essindi and Jimi Soto from Abakuya

    Posters from the festival Africolor

    The Sonima record shop in the Château d’Eau neighbourhood, Paris

    Mainstream and ethnic value chains in the cultural industries

    The DGT Architectes team : Tsuyoshi Tane, Lina Ghotmeh and Dan

    Dorrel

    Imtaz Khaliq, bespoke taylor. Photo courtesy of Imtaz Khaliq

    Musician Abaji, music as memory

    A shop selling a variety of Indian products in Paris

    Record shop in the Paris Goutte d’Or neighbourhood

    Laurindo, fashion designer

    Sadio Bee, mixing fashion traditions

    Imane Ayissi, fashion designer and writer

    A Maame Baryeh fashion design

    Research questions

    Overview of interview respondents

    Scott’s cultural industries taxonomyTypology of migrant entrepreneurship markets

    Cultural industries intra-sectoral diversity

    Dimensions of intercultural dialogue in cultural industries production

    and consumption

    Baseline initiatives in enhancing cultural competence

    List of gures and tables

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    Figure 1

    Figure 2

    Figure 3 

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    Figure 12 

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    Figure 17 

    Table 1

    Table 2 

    Table 3 Table 4 

    Table 5 

    Table 6 

    Table 7 

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      The Cultural Policy Research Award (CPRA) was created to encourage much needed research in the cultural policy

    eld, support a younger generation of cultural policy interested professionals, and develop a network of scholars to engagein European research cooperation.

    Launched as a joint venture of the European Cultural Foundation (ECF) in Amsterdam and the Riksbankens

    Jubileumsfond, a research foundation in Stockholm, the CPRA was conceived to make a meaningful contribution to the

    discipline of cultural policy research. The two foundations have worked closely to shape this initiative, supported by the

    expertise of a European jury of researchers and policy experts.

    Both foundations felt strongly the need to strengthen the base of qualied persons to carry out research not only

    in the arts but on cross-cultural matters and with a strong cultural policy dimension. Hence, the CPRA encourages research

    that has an applied and comparative dimension in order to stimulate debate and inform cultural policymaking within a

    European perspective.

    Based on an annual European-wide competition, the CPRA jury selects a cultural policy research proposal to be

    carried out by the award-winning candidate within one year. The selection is based on already achieved research accom-

    plishments of the candidate, on the relevance and quality of the submitted research proposal, as well as their curriculum

    vitae.

    The target group is young researchers, scholars, or policy makers (under the age of 35) from all European countries.

    Candidates must be educated to M.A. level in social sciences, art and humanities, or public policy research. The selected

    applicant is awarded the prize and a grant of Euro 10.000 at the occasion of an international cultural policy related confer-

    ence.

      In 2007, the CPRA went to Amanda Brandellero, an English-Italian PhD researcher at the Amsterdam Institute for

    Metropolitan and International Development Studies (University of Amsterdam), for her research paper Crossing cultural

    borders? Migrants and ethnic diversity in the cultural industries. Amanda has accomplished an in depth theoretical study

    applying a specic interdisciplinary approach, and an inspiring empirical study on migrant entrepreneurship in the cultural

    industries in three European cities - Paris, London and Amsterdam.

      By portraying the ‘ethnicity’ of the creative entrepreneurs in the areas of music, fashion and architecture, the

    author reveals important intercultural processes that (pre)determine the birth of creative production. This knowledge may

    result in ne tuning of the respective policy attitudes and instruments.

    We express our thanks to the CPRA Jury members and its chair, Prof. Dr. Milena Dragicevic-Sesic (University of

    Arts - Belgrade), for their full-edged contribution to the CPRA without which this endeavor would not have been possible.

    We wish to thank the Riksbankens Jubileumsfond for partnering with ECF on this initiative which invests in the young cul-

    tural policy research potential.

    Isabelle Schwarz

    Head of Cultural Policy Development, European Cultural Foundation 

    Foreword

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      This research project would not have been possible without the support of the European Cultural Policy Research

    Award 2007, to which I am truly indebted. I would like to express my full gratitude to the members of the Jury who believedin my research proposal and I hope this report will justify your faith in me.

    I would also like to thank my supervisor, Professor Robert Kloosterman, for his comments on an earlier draft, as well

    as the participants to the Regional Studies Association Creative Regions Research Network workshop Creative industries,

    scenes, cities, places: idiosyncratic dimensions of the cultural economy, which took place in Cardiff in April 2009 and par-

    ticipants of the IMISCOE workshop ‘Matching Context and Capacity: The Economic Integration of Immigrants’ in Florence

    June 2009. Finally, I would like to thank Caroline Rainger for her help with proofreading, and Caroline and Sara for their

    support during eldwork.

    I dedicate this report to Marcel.

    Acknowledgements

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      Culture is a widely used, yet often vaguely dened term. In its ever-changing nature, it weaves together the past,

    the present and the future, involving a constant negotiation of the world as we know and experience it, both habitually and

    creatively (Williams and Gable 1989; Karner 2007). Thus, culture is by nature diverse and dynamic, both in its actual ‘con-

    tent’ and in the discourses and representations that are developed around it. Reecting this dynamism, conceptualisations

    of culture have also evolved, spanning from a perspective paralleling culture and the arts, and reaching a more contem-

    porary reading, particularly in the light of processes of globalisation, where culture has come to encompass the ‘distinctive

    spiritual, material, intellectual and emotional features of society or a social group, and that it encompasses, in addition to

    art and literature, lifestyles, ways of living together, value systems, traditions and beliefs’ (UNESCO 2007). This element

    of distinctiveness signals that diversity matters when conceptualising and experiencing culture: yet this diversity can be

    contested, recognised, legitimised or not, as the case may be.

    Diversity in culture may take various forms: it can for instance relate to beliefs or practices in some areas of life

    (sub-cultural diversity), to societal principles and values sets (perspectival diversity), to different, often community linked,

    systems of beliefs and practices (communal diversity) (Parekh 2002). Dening culture thus entails an exploration of iden-

    tity, its representation and recognition, but also an understanding of the systems organising our individual and collectivelives. In addition, a more dynamic perspective is needed, understanding culture as a process, and recognising that the

    boundaries between cultures are porous rather than xed.

    The focus of this work is on how ethnic diversity is experienced in cultural production: more specically, how ethnic

    diversity matters in the production and consumption of cultural industry goods. This question becomes extremely pressing

    and relevant, raising questions about the representations of the world these products put forward, how these representa-

    tions are shaped and by whom.

    Prologue

    ‘The creative cities were nearly all cosmopolitan; they drew talent from the four

    corners of their worlds, and from the very start those worlds were often surprisingly

    far-ung. Probably, no city has ever been creative without continued renewal of the

    creative bloodstream’.

    (Hall 1998, p.285)

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    1. Introduction

    The concept of the ‘stranger’, the ‘outsider’, or the ‘marginal man’ is one that has fas-

    cinated sociologists, economists and geographers alike. Migrants have indeed long

    been portrayed as key actors of innovation and thriving cultural activities, as a look at

    the history of cultures and civilizations at the height of their vibrancy has highlighted

    (see Hall 1998). Migrants are perceived as being ‘a cultural hybrid’, ‘living and shar-

    ing intimately in the cultural life and traditions of two different people; never quite

    willing to break, even if he were permitted to do so, with his past and his traditions,

    and not quite accepted […] in the new society in which he now sought to nd a place’(Park 1928, p.892). Articulating the concept further, it ‘is in the mind of the marginal

    man - where the changes and fusions of culture are going on - that we can best study

    the processes of civilization and of progress’ (Stonequist 1935, P.12)

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      The link between the outsider status and cultural diversity is also one often made, highlighting the creative ten-

    sions and innovative potential of the ‘different’ (Schumpeter 1934; Park 1950; Simmel 1950; Hall 1998). More recently,some observers have gone so far as to argue that cultural diversity linked to ethnic diversity is ‘a source of potential com-

    petitiveness, because of the positive relationships between diversity, creativity and innovation’ (Smallbone, Bertotti et al.

    2005, p.41). More generally speaking, by being at the intersection between the local and the global, as a result of their

    multiple spatial and ethnic ties, contemporary migrants are seen as important contributors to strengthening the competitive

    advantage of advanced urban economies (Henry, McEwan et al. 2002; Saxenian 2002; Saxenian 2007).

    Figure 1 - Maame Baryeh collection, London. PHOTO BY JORDAN MATYKA.

      At the beginning of the nineties, as the study of the ‘cultural economy’ binary started to gain momentum, concerns

    were voiced over the participation of disadvantaged ethnic and racial communities in public and cultural life 1 (Bianchini

    1994). To date, the extent to which migrants are contributing to cultural activities from an economic perspective, and the

    dynamics through which they do so, in the context of the widening research on cultural industries as relatively new sectors

    of activity, remains largely unexplored. Yet diversity, be it in all its forms, is increasingly considered as a living and renew-

    able treasure, stimulating the capacity for expression, creation and innovation (UNESCO 2001).

      This research focuses on the extent to which cultural industries provide opportunities to express the diversity of

    local populations, drawing on the creative sparks and inputs of the variety of cultures which contemporary societies bring

    together. ‘Ethnic’ in this context is used ‘primarily in contexts of cultural difference, where cultural difference is associated

    above all with an actual or commonly perceived shared ancestry, with language markers and with national or regional

    origin’ (Fenton 1999, p.4)2

    . By combining three strands of thought, notably literature on cultural industries, ethnicity andculture, and migrant entrepreneurship, we aim to shed light on the dynamic interaction between the cultural industries’ typi-

    cally localised production processes and the global reach of the cultural identities and references on which migrants can

    draw. We explore this from three perspectives:

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    1. The extent to which ethnic diversity is activated as symbolic and aesthetic fuel to drive innovation in

    processes of commodication of culture. Here we zoom into the cultural industries creative and

    production processes, and explore the conditions under which ethnicity can become the object of com

    modication, as a conscious/unconscious, strategic or spontaneous source of creative inspiration.

    2. The dynamics through which the mediation of tastes and trends within the cultural industries comes to

    shape the boundaries between ethnic/non-ethnic cultural products. Previously ‘niche’ products linkedto ethnic communities’ production and consumption patterns become part of the mainstream, while

    others remain within the connes of group boundaries.

    3. An exploration of how ethnic diversity matters in the cultural industries.  Here we explore the conditions

    under which ethnicity matters in cultural industries, from the perspective of the creative workers and

    their products, as an advantage or disadvantage. Caution is due: often diversity is offered as an

    independent variable in explaining why certain things happen, but we should be careful to ensure that

    this is not an explanation of events post-facto.

    Table 1 - Research questions

      We posit that various actors and institutions (artists, producers, gatekeepers, consumers, loci of production and

    consumption) interact to produce a complex but also dynamic ecological system within which migrants participate in the

    cultural industries (Becker 1982). Drawing on material gathered from in-depth interviews with creative workers in three cul-

    tural industry sectors, we will zoom into the ‘creative eld’ within which processes of migrant economic incorporation in the

    cultural industries take place, looking at the interdependencies between space, commodication of culture and the actors

    that inuence this (Bourdieu 1979; Scott 2006).

    Firstly, we will gather key insights into the functioning of cultural industries and their evolution into one of the main-

    stays of contemporary urban economies. Secondly, we will explore the question of ethnic diversity and culture, taking the

    perspective of creative workers as ‘entrepreneurs of culture’, drawing on a variety of inputs and inspirations, be they ethni-cally specic or not. Thirdly, we will combine these insights to develop a dynamic framework of analysis of the participation

    of creative workers from diverse ethnic backgrounds in the cultural industries, exploring opportunities and barriers to their

    trajectories.

    Structure of the report

      In order to explore these issues, we rst set the scene by examining the theoretical notions and debates around

    cultural industries. This will allow us to highlight the complex ecosystem of actors contributing to the transformation of crea-

    tive ideas into cultural-industry products. We then introduce a discussion on the cultural industries’ opportunity structure.

    Here we will develop some key elements for understanding the dynamics governing access and trajectories within cultural

    industries, which individuals (migrant or non-migrant) negotiate. Given our focus on ethnic diversity, we will zoom into

    the relationship between culture and ethnicity, drawing up conceptual pointers for our analysis of how ethnicity matters in

    cultural industries’ production. Weaving these theoretical elements together, we will develop a framework for exploring the

    articulation of ethnicity in cultural industries’ production. Finally, an empirical part drawing on semi-structured interviews

    with cultural producers from three sectors (architecture, fashion and music) will be presented, allowing us to respond to the

    set research questions and draw policy conclusions and recommendations, in addition to directions for further investiga-

    tion.

    Methodology  This research strives to ll an analytical gap in the understanding of the interaction between ethnic diversity and

    cultural-product industries. In doing so, it does not seek to be exhaustive in its approach, but rather exploratory, setting

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    out ideas and a new agenda for research in the eld. Given its vocation, the research called for a comparative approach,

    cutting across cultural industry sectors and socio-economic and spatial settings. Rather than present a case study analysis

    of a particular sector, it seems interesting to explore the question of ethnic diversity and culture and related dynamics by

    approaching it from a sectoral viewpoint. At the same time, the experiences of musicians, architects and fashion designers

    may vary depending on the institutional, social and economic context in which they are living: hence the decision to carry

    out interviews in three cities, notably Amsterdam, London and Paris.

    In line with the exploratory nature of the research and the virtual impossibility of carrying out an exhaustive

    investigation on the experiences of migrant cultural entrepreneurs3  in the three sectors, three cities, respondents were

    selected on the basis of their non-Western backgrounds and trajectories as rst-generation migrant cultural entrepreneurs,

    who have received recognition for their work in the media or through sector-related initiatives and acknowledgements.

    An overview of the respondents is provided in Annex 1 - Portraits. In order to preserve condentiality, the interviews were

    given numbered codes, which are used in the report to cross-reference quotes. Altogether, 30 cultural entrepreneurs were

    interviewed. The following table shows a break up of respondents by city and sector (see Annex 1 for an overview of re-

    spondents).

    Table 2  - Overview of interview respondents

      The empirical research took the form of semi-structured interviews, lasting between one and three hours, at vari-

    ous locations in the three cities. In some cases, email questionnaires were used, while in one case, the interview was car-

    ried out by telephone. The majority of the interviews were recorded and transcribed, allowing for more accurate analysis

    and quotation.

    Sector Amsterdam London Paris TotalArchitecture 3 3   4 10

    Fashion 1 6   4 11

    Music 2 2 5 9

    Total 6 11 13 30

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    2. Cultural industries in perspective

    The cultural economy has emerged as a major source of employment and growth in

    many countries and cities globally, and its potential for supporting the regeneration of

    deprived and stagnating areas has been widely explored by academics and govern-

    ment agencies alike (Markusen and Schrock 2006; Miles 2007). The culture-gener-

    ating capabilities of cities are being harnessed to productive purposes, creating new

    kinds of competitive advantages with major employment and income-enhancing ef-

    fects (Scott 2000). The spatial manifestations of the cultural economy have attracted

    signicant attention, and cities have emerged as the main playing eld of a ‘culturalrevolution’ in the new economy. The characteristics of the local milieus of production

    and their ability to attract and retain the necessary human and other resources for

    self-sustaining and enhancing growth have been central to policies aimed at devel-

    oping creative clusters and supporting the positioning of cities in a competitive global

    environment. In the policy realm particularly, the debate around the creative city has

    gained momentum, particularly following the work of Richard Florida on the rise of

    the creative class and how it is shaping economic and urban development4 (Landry

    and Bianchini 1995; Florida 2004).

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      According to a recently published report on the cultural economy of Europe, the cultural and creative sector in the

    enlarged European Union (30 members) contributed to 2.6% of the EU GDP in 2003, while the overall growth of the sec-tor’s value added was 19.7% in the period 1999-2003. In addition the sector employed 5.8 million people in 2004, equiva-

    lent to 3.1% of the total employed population of the EU25 (KEA 2006, p.6). As such, cultural industries can no longer be

    considered as ‘secondary to the ‘real’ economy where durable, ‘useful’ goods are manufactured (Hesmondhalgh 2007,

    p.1). Growth in the cultural industries has beneted from increases in the disposable incomes of the population: subject

    to Engel’s law of income elasticity (formulated by nineteenth century German-born statistician Ernst Engel), accepted as

    the basic principle of income and consumption, as disposable income increases, the proportion of income spent on food

    decreases, freeing up income for other forms of consumption, including cultural goods and services (for a discussion, see

    Scott 2000).

    For the purpose of this research, we should note here a focus on cultural industries, as opposed to ‘creative indus-

    tries’, a term which has emerged as a denitional challenger to the former. The argument at the heart of this denitional

    discussion lies in the emergence of creativity as a source of competitive advantage in the knowledge economy 5. The

    shortcoming of ‘creative industries’, in agreement with Pratt, lies with the vagueness of the term ‘creativity’ as a construc-

    tive basis for mapping sectors of activity: arguably in fact, all sectors are ‘creative’ in their own way (for a discussion of this

    point, see Pratt 2007, p.6-7).

    The collection of data on the cultural industries and the measurement of the growth and impact of the sector have

    been hampered by denitional disagreements, characterised in particular by the contentious relationship between purely

    artistic professions and their industrial counterparts, and between core professions and complementary ones. We here

    give a brief overview of different perspectives adopted.

    Dening the sector

      ‘Cultural industries produce and distribute cultural goods or services which, at the time they are considered as a

    specic attribute, use or purpose, embody or convey cultural expressions, irrespective of the commercial value they may

    have’, according to the terms of the Convention on the protection and promotion of the diversity of cultural expressions

    adopted by UNESCO in 2005 (UNESCO 2005). This denition reects the duality of cultural industries, at the intersection

    of culture and the economy: cultural products are in fact at the same time bearers of identity, values and meaning and fac-

    tors of economic and social development (UNESCO 2006).

      How these general terms, which mainly refer to the characteristics of cultural industries products, have translated

    into denitions and measurements of the cultural economy differs widely across the EU. Hence we nd approaches re-

    spectively emphasizing the ‘creative’, copyright, experience or cultural aspects. These diverging emphases have also lead

    to statistical compatibility issues and a subsequent difculty in actually measuring the sector across the board. As a result,

    the delineation of the cultural industries varies greatly across countries (for an overview and mapping of the economy of

    culture in Europe, see KEA 2006, p.48).

    In exploring the cultural economy in Europe, KEA reached a three-circles denition, which highlights the links be-

    tween cultural and creative industries. In the proposed model, we nd a central ‘arts eld’, characterized primarily by non-

    industrial, one-of-a-kind products (e.g. visual arts, heritage); a ‘cultural industries circle’, where products are exclusively

    cultural, produced and reproduced in larger numbers and based on copyright (e.g. lm and music); ‘the creative industriesand activities circle’ where products may not be industrial and can be prototypes (e.g. design, architecture); and nally a

    circle containing ‘related industries’, made up of sub-sectors which facilitate the work of the rst three circles (KEA 2006,

    pp.53-54).

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      For the purpose of this study, we base our research on the denition put forward by the economic geographer Allen

    Scott. According to his denition, cultural-products industries are concerned with the production and marketing of goods

    and services that have aesthetic or semiotic content (Scott 2000), reecting an economic and cultural conjuncture where

    ‘commodity production and in particular our clothing, furniture, buildings and other artefacts are now intimately tied in with

    styling changes which derive from artistic experimentation’ (Jameson 1998, p.19). Scott distinguishes between cultural

    product-industries, which offer services outputs focusing on entertainment, edication and information and those offering

    manufactured products, which contribute to shaping the individuality and self-assertion of their consumers (Scott 2004).Scott explores the shift from a rst generation of cultural economy (based mainly on place marketing, the commercializa-

    tion of historical heritage and the production of large-scale investment in artefacts of collective cultural consumption in

    the interest of urban regeneration) to a second (focused on the development of localised complexes of cultural-products

    industries). Scott’s taxonomy is reproduced in Table 3 below.

    Table 3  - Scott’s cultural industries taxonomy (source: Scott 2004, p.471)

    Cultural products

    Industrial districts

    Products immobile

    Resort complexes

    Central city cultural

    precincts

    Temporary and

    cyclical cultural

    aggiomerations

    Consumer oriented

    craft/artisenal

    industries

    Assembly Jewelry

    Web design

    Advertising

    Conventions

    Museum districts

    Cosmetics/perfumes

    TV-program production

    Clothing

    Graphic design

    Publishing

    Entertainment districts

    (theatres, clubs etc.)

    Natural attractions

    Toys

    Architecture

    Furniture

    Industrial design

    Public relations

    Festivals

    Heritage

    Ceramics & glass

    Motion pictures

    Sports events

    Eno-gastronomic products

    Music industry

    Upscale shopping districts

    Theme parks

    Leather goods

    Process

    Wines

    Spirits

    Books

    Magazines

    Newspapers

    ‘Spécialitesdu pays’

    Specialized design

    services

    Media and related

    industries

    Products mobile

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      Building upon Bourdieu’s work on symbolic products, Scott denes the modern cultural economy as cultural-product

    industries that produce goods and services whose subjective meaning […] is high in comparison with their utilitarian pur-

    pose (Bourdieu 1971; Scott 2004, p.462). This subjective meaning results in a form of production that is design-intensive –

    hence involving a cognitive and aesthetic reexive component – linked to differentiated and differentiating consumer tastes

    and demands (Lash and Urry 1994). In addition, more work is proportionally going into developing models, and less work

    in producing them, so that the research and development part is the main activity, while the actual manufacturing of the

    product (for instance, printing copies of a book or a CD) becomes secondary (Hesmondhalgh 2007). Alongside the com-plex inter-relations of locationally convergent networks of production, there are however global networks of transactions

    (Amin and Thrift 1992), with intermediaries channelling information and outputs from producers to consumers and vice

    versa. This decoupling of knowledge and design-intensive inputs has led to a decentralization of the production stages,

    leading in turn to a concentration of the more ‘cultural’ and ‘artistic’ stages in metropolitan areas and a delocalization of the

    manufacturing elements of production. In addition, structural changes related to enhancements in information and commu-

    nication technologies have fundamentally changed the ways of production, distribution and consumption in many cultural

    industries, opening up new interfaces between cultural producers and consumers. New technologies have also impacted

    the valuation of creativity, particularly in the recognition and remuneration of intellectual property rights. This holds true

    especially in the audiovisual industry.

    Cultural industries: from art to industry?

      Considerable attention has been given to the specicity of cultural industries’ production, not always in an optimistic

    vein. At the beginning of the last century, concerns were voiced that the ‘aura’ and uniqueness of the object of art would

    wither as a result of its mechanical reproduction: “Even the most perfect reproduction of a work of art is lacking in one ele-

    ment: its presence in time and space, its unique existence at the place where it happens to be. This unique existence of

    the work of art determined the history to which it was subject throughout the time of its existence” (Benjamin 1936, p.2).

      Adorno and Horkheimer, members of the Frankfurt School, referred to the ‘culture industry’ to highlight the organi-

    sational features of a cultural production system geared towards disseminating cultural products for mass consumption.This industry was seen as founded on entertainment and amusement, deleting all distinction between this and culture as

    tradition and personal experience (Adorno and Horkheimer 2002; Fleury and Singly 2006). The transformation of culture

    into commodity was thus seen as affecting the denition of culture itself, diluting it to an act of mass production and con-

    sumption (Adorno and Bernstein 2001). Bernard Miège introduced a note of optimism by arguing that the introduction of

    new technologies in cultural production, counter to Adorno’s expectations, would lead to innovative and interesting devel-

    opments in the eld (Miège 1989; Scott 2000).

    Interest in the cultural industries heightened with a growing realization that changes in contemporary capitalism had

    resulted in a growing interconnectedness of culture and the economy, and an increasing aesthetisation of the latter. ‘What

    has happened’ in the words of Jameson, ‘is that aesthetic production today has become integrated into commodity produc-

    tion generally: the frantic economic urgency of producing fresh waves of ever more novel-seeming goods (from clothing toairplanes), at ever greater rates of turnover, now assigns an increasingly essential structural function and position to aes-

    thetic innovation and experimentation” (Jameson 1991, p.56). This emerging ‘cognitive-cultural capitalism’ has resulted in

    productive activity today thriving not only on advanced scientic knowledge and continuous innovation, but also on product

    multiplicity and symbolic elaboration (Scott 2008).

    Speaking about the present historical conjuncture, Jameson argues that we can observe a “dedifferentiation of

    elds, such that economics has come to overlap with culture: that everything, including commodity production and high and

    speculative nance, has become cultural; and culture has equally become profoundly economic or commodity oriented”

    (Jameson 1998, p.73). As such, cultural industries are emblematic ‘of the hybrid and complex relationships between pro-

    duction and consumption, the symbolic and material’ (Pratt 2008, p.3).

    We now turn our attention to how these complex relationships between production and consumption impact upon

    modes of structuring the sector’s activities, in particular by exploring the concepts of production chain and networks.

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    Exploring the cultural industries’ production chain and networks

      The organization of production in the cultural industries is characterized by a ‘transaction-rich nexus of markets’,

    linking small-sized rms or individual actors in complex interconnected stages of exible production relations. Given these

    features, cultural industries were ‘post-Fordist avant la lettre’, providing a model for our understanding of post-industrial

    transformations in other industries (Lash and Urry 1994, p.123). The outcome is a networked production ecology, where

    the nished product is realized through the collaborative effort of different individuals, requiring various more or less spe-cialized inputs and a complex division of labour (Becker 1982; Negus 1996; Scott 2000; Leyshon 2001). We can therefore

    identify a ‘project team’, ranging from primary creative personnel, technical workers to creative managers, marketing per-

    sonnel, owners and executives and unskilled and semi-skilled labour (Hesmondhalgh 2007, pp.64-5, building upon work

    by Bill Ryan). These inter-connections take the form of contracting, sub-contracting relations, technical and organisational

    innovation, and labour markets, and may partly explain the co-location of many cultural industries (Pratt 1997). The signi-

    cance of these inter-linkages can be exemplied in a study on the music economy in Sweden, where the value added and

    prots to be found in information, services and related activities rather than actual production of music are signicant. The

    development of a post-industrial music economy is based on the development of services and related products around the

    core music and its survival depends on building innovative products and channels of distribution, crossing music and ICTs

    (Power and Jansson 2004). The specicities of the sector, such as the risks of production and volatility of demand, which

    we will explore in later sections, call for an atypical contractual governance in the cultural industries, striking a ne balance

    between economic and cultural motivations (Caves 2000).

    Because of the nature of their products, cultural industries should be examined from production to consumption by

    exploring their production chain. One way of doing this, is to look at the production chain of cultural industries products,

    from their creation to their nal consumption. Pratt has been a main proponent of this approach, exploring the original

    production and authoring of cultural industries products (including performance, ne art and literature), their actual produc-

    tion, reproduction and mass distribution (e.g. in the form of books, journal magazines, newspapers, lm, radio, television,

    recording on disc or tape) and their exhibition and exchange. The author also explores activities that link together these art

    forms, such as advertising (Pratt 1997; Pratt 2007). This approach brings together the inputs used in the making of culture,

    as well as the activities related to the dissemination of the end product (Department for Culture 2002).

    Figure 2  - Cultural industries production chain (Source: Pratt 2007, p.19)

    Original production

    and authoring

    Production tools Reproduction and

    mass distribution

    Exhibition and sites

    of exchange

      Indeed, the idea of a trajectory from production to consumption is one that is increasingly explored in the culturalindustries. The linkages between the two ends of the process highlight the presence of a complex ecology of actors, bring-

    ing together a variety of complementary skills and expertise. As way of an example, the analysis of the ecology of the music

    economy distinguishes four distinctive yet overlapping networks: creativity (or original production, where music is made

    and performed), reproduction (or manufacturing processes involved in the commodication of culture, as in the case of

    music, which is placed on media such as CDs), distribution (including the actual distribution of the product, but also market-

    ing and promotion) and consumption (from retail outlets to the consumer). These networks represent stages through which

    cultural material ows and becomes commodied (Leyshon 2001; Leyshon, Webb et al. 2005). The networks of creativity

    are shaped in dense, spatially agglomerated interactions between actors and agencies, echoing Scott’s analysis of the

    music economy as rooted in ‘communities of workers anchored to particular places’ which self-perpetuate themselves by

    acting as a magnet for other talented individuals (Scott 1999).

    The emerging complex ecology of cultural industry production brings together different types of ‘creative workers’.

    We can distinguish between those engaged in producing primary creative output, those engaged in interpretative activity,

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    i.e. people who help bring the work of original creation to its audiences, and nally those supplying creative services to

    support arts and cultural production. Here a distinction can be made between ‘imaginative’ and ‘utilitarian’ creative oc-

    cupations, thus allowing for a distinction between artists and creative workers who, while engaged in cultural industries,

    are non-artists (Throsby 2001). An additional layer of analysis is provided by the distinction between art for art’s sake and

    humdrum inputs in the cultural industries, as described by Caves: the former refers to the utility drawn by artists in perform-

    ing creative work, whereas the latter refers to ordinary economic incentives. These can be combined in the creative worker

    or decoupled as the case may be, as in the case of the writer and the publisher, the visual artist and the art gallery (Caves2000). Given the nature of our investigation, we chose to focus on imaginative rather than utilitarian occupations, as this

    will give us more of an insight into the dynamics of cultural representation and diversity within the wider sector, as opposed

    to more technically bound and less openly ‘creative’ occupations.

    The ecology of actors highlights a shift away from the romantic vision of the artist as an ‘isolated genius’. Production

    in the cultural industries takes place within an ‘art world’, characterised by the presence of gatekeepers and processes

    of cultural mediation. Art exists in a social context and requires more than individual action to create it (Becker 1982;

    Hesmondhalgh 2007). According to Scott, the production system can be described as “a ltering device through which

    some kinds of (exogenously-given) novelties are allowed to pass while others are rejected along the way” (Scott 2000,

    p.34).

    The representation of a production chain raises the question of the (intrinsic) value of the cultural commodity itself

    and how it develops. Commodities are seen as having only the meaning which is ascribed to them by the individuals, rather

    than having a meaning of their own. In order to understand the value and meaning of commodities it is therefore necessary

    to follow their trajectories, their forms and uses (Appadurai 1988). The term commodity for Appadurai refers to ‘anything

    intended for exchange’ (Appadurai 1988), a denition which avoids any binary distinction between art and commodity

    (Madison and Hamera 2006). The contextual life of the commodity is intrinsic in them. ‘Let’s approach commodities as

    things in a certain situation, a situation that can characterise many different kinds of thing, at different points in their social

    lives. This […] means breaking signicantly with the production-dominated Marxian view of the commodity and focusing on

    its total trajectory from production through exchange/distribution, to consumption’ (Appadurai 1988, p.13).

    In a study of popular music, some observers have even gone so far as to posit that the “diversity and innovation

    available to the public […] has more to do with the market structures and organisational environments of specic industries

    than with strongly felt demands of either the masses or their masters for certain kinds of cultural materials (DiMaggio 1977,

    p.448). We argue that the question of diversity in the cultural industries needs to be looked at from the perspective of the

    interaction between the demand and supply within a wider ‘opportunity structure’ framework. We dene this as the combi-

    nation of place and time, sector specic factors, which shape the progression of creative workers in the sector. The main

    elements we would like to delve into in the following section are:

      ● the role of the metropolis as a locus for cultural activities and their hybriditization;

      ● the question of mediation and gatekeeping in the cultural industries;

      ● the signicance of ethnicity and diversity in the trajectories of migrants in these sectors;  ● the wider institutional approaches to ethnicity and diversity.

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    3. Negotiating the cultural industries’

    opportunity structure

    Much has been discussed about the cultural homogenization or heterogenization

    impact of globalization. As new forces from across the globe enter our societies, they

    become ‘indigenized’ (Appadurai 1990; for an interesting perspective on German-

    Turkish rap/hip-hop in Berlin, see Caglar 1998). The cultural economy can no longer

    be understood in terms of separate entities manifested in the diversity of nation-

    states: we are now looking at an ‘overlapping, disjunctive order, which cannot any

    longer be understood in terms of center-periphery models […] nor is it susceptible to

    simple models of push and pull (in terms of migration theory) […] or of producers and

    consumers’ (Appadurai 1990, p.296). The recognition of the impact of globalisation

    and growing internationalisation is fundamental to a greater understanding cultural

    diversity and cultural processes altogether (UNESCO 1998).

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      The de-territorialisation of people, cultures and commodities and the resulting increasing interconnectivities among

    space shape the consumer tastes in large metropolitan areas, the arenas where such ows are primarily played out, are

    transformed (Appadurai 1990). This leads to a shift in the demand side for cultural products, with globalisation effec-

    tively broadening consumer demand for culturally exotic and specialised products and services (Collins, Morrissey et al.

    1995, p.101), expanding the choices made available for consumers and contributing to a better allocation of resources

    (Caplan and Cowen 2004). In general terms, ‘growing consumer acceptance of, and effective demand for, foreign products,

    strengthens ethnic minority and immigrant businesses’ (Light 2005). On the supply side, open and diverse societies are

    seen as catalysts for innovation, entrepreneurship and economic development (Florida 2005), or as we have seen earlier,

    as thriving centres of cultural and artistic production (Hall 1998).

    We argue here that several elements are at work in shaping the cultural industries’ opportunity structure (consid-

    ered here as the set of exogenous factors limiting or supporting action) and its openness to diversity. First of all, cultural

    industries’ strong anchor in metropolitan areas is simultaneously the object and the reection of strong cultural cross-fertili-

    sation, shaping trajectories within the cultural industries. Secondly, we delve into the denition of ethnicity and its relation to

    culture, to nd cognitive constituents for our analysis of the dynamic interaction of ethnicity with processes of commodica-

    tion of culture within the cultural industries. Finally, we explore the mechanisms of mediation within the cultural industries,and how these might affect trends and tastes of consumers and, in turn, the production (and popularity) of cultural goods.

    We seek here to nd the mechanism at work in shaping the diversity of cultural products and hence the shifting boundaries

    between ethnic and mainstream markets in which migrant cultural entrepreneurs might operate.

    Figure 3  - Rene Sanchez, Cap Verdian music record shop owner, Paris

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    Cultural industries and the diverse metropolis

      Cities have historically been thriving centres of cultural and economic activity, as highlighted in the seminal work by

    Peter Hall, Cities in Civilization. Here, the author explores the evolution of cultural capitals such as Vienna, Paris, Athens,

    during their golden ages (Hall 1998). More recently, the question of how particular places have done well out of the cul-

    tural industries has attracted signicant attention, particularly as the sector has become central to regeneration strategiesacross deprived areas.

    Large metropolitan areas ‘represent nodes of location-

    specic interactions and emergent effects in which the stimulus to

    cultural experimentation and renewal tends to be high’ (Scott 2000,

    p.4). Importantly, we are witnessing the emergence of shifting land-

    scapes of global cultural ows, which characterise the disjuncture

    between economy, culture and politics: the most relevant for our

    investigation are ‘ethnoscapes’, the ‘landscape of persons who

    constitute the shifting world in which we live: tourists, immigrants,

    refugees, exiles, guest-workers, and other moving groups and per-sons’ (Appadurai 1990, p.297). Here the focus is less on ethnicity,

    but rather more on the correlation between people across transna-

    tional landscapes. Place-based communities in large metropolitan

    areas such as Paris, London and Amsterdam are not just repositor-

    ies of cultural and creative labour, they also represent ‘active hubs

    of social reproduction in which crucial cultural competences are

    maintained and circulated’ (Scott 2000, p.33).

    Arguably more than other sectors of economic activity, cul-

    tural industries illustrate the strong interconnectedness of place,

    and particularly the metropolis, and culture: local activities become

    imbued with the social and cultural character of the surrounding

    urban area. At the same time, the existing and emerging economic

    activities contribute to the dynamism of culture-generating and in-

    novative capacities of specic places (Zukin 1995; Scott 2000).

    Zukin argues that cities have always had symbolic economies, in-

    sofar as their elites have made use of symbolic language to put

    forward a certain image of the city, as a representation of the domi-

    nant powers. She denes the symbolic economy as ‘(T)he look and

    feel of cities [which] reect decisions about what – and who – should be visible and what should not, concepts of order

    and disorder, and on uses of aesthetic power’. Within this symbolic economy, migrants and ethnic minorities are placingpressures on public institutions and high culture to diversify their offerings to appeal to a wider and more diverse public

    (Zukin 1995, p.7). The production of symbols and products within this symbolic economy becomes both a ‘currency for

    commercial exchange and a language of social identity’ (Zukin 1995, pp.23-4).

      Cultural economies are indeed inclined to exhibit well-developed individual identities, as a consequence of the play

    of history, agglomeration and locational specialisation. The power of place therefore plays a key role in determining the

    competitiveness of products. As a result, products become inextricably linked to specic places and imbued with a time-

    and-place-specic ‘aura’, adding value to the products themselves. Such connection between place and product ‘yields a

    kind of monopoly rent that adheres to places, their insignia, and the brand names that may attach to them. Their industries

    grow as a result, and the local economic base takes shape. Favourable images create entry barriers for products from

    competing places’ (Molotch 1996, p.229). Many metropolitan areas also exhibit the concomitant development of separateyet interwoven cultural industries sectors, beneting from proximity and complex project ecologies (Scott 2004). The strong

    ties between the metropolis and its critical infrastructure are recognised (Zukin 1995).

    “It was the beginning of

    the 80s, the big names in

    Latin music were arriving

    here […] there was a core

    of good musicians based

    in Paris and the stars were

    coming from the States or

    Latin America. They knew

    that there were Paris-based

    teams and that they didn’t

    need to come with a full

    orchestra. This gave me the

    opportunity to work with

    stars such as Patato Valdez,

    Chocolate Armenteros, Tata

    Guines, people who meant a

    lot to me in my youth and all

    of a sudden, I had the oppor- 

    tunity of working with them.”

    (Interview n.15, musician).

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      Not only socially, but also economically, urban diversity is of

    great importance, according to Jacobs. In an area of the city with

    different kinds of suppliers and buyers, entrepreneurs can share

    their facilities, such as ofce spaces and machines, and prot from

    a varied supply of knowledge and expertise. The cross-fertilization

    which results from that diversity works as a magnet for compa-nies that are looking for a new place to establish themselves.

    Additionally, the mix of old and new buildings in the neighbourhood

    gives every type of entrepreneur a chance. In this way, it is pos-

    sible that a modern stockbroker’s ofce and a traditional furniture

    maker are neighbours. According to Jacobs’ motto, “new ideas of-

    ten need old buildings” so a city neighbourhood can grow into a

    true breeding ground of entrepreneurship, creativity and innovation

    (Jacobs 1961; Jacobs 1969). Hall’s element of serendipity, “some-

    thing beyond the economy and the inherited cultural dispositions”

    partly explains this. Rather than exchange occurring in a system-

    atic way, people “meet, people talk, people listen to each other’smusic and each other’s words, dance each other’s dances, take in

    each other’s thoughts’ (Hall 1998, p.21). Creativity and innovation

    are therefore not seen as the prerogative of the individual, indeed,

    a key role is played by the social conditions of production of the cul-

    tural economy. It is not that individual genius is denied, but rather

    that it is channelled towards cultural production (DiMaggio 1977).

    Places can thus be seen as ‘articulated moments in networks of

    social relations and understandings’ (Massey 1994, p.154).6

      Questioning the origins of creativity and whether a city

    can have creative industries for very long without being creative,

    Peter Hall gives a prominent role to exchanges and serendipity

    of encounters in cities. Reecting on Gardner’s work on highly

    creative XX century individuals, Hall reected that creativity was

    often linked to individuals originating from localities peripheral to

    the centres of power and inuence, yet not completely cut off. These individuals were socially marginal, as a result of their

    ethnicity, gender, nationality or social class, yet their positioning ‘at the edge’ allowed them to thrive (Hall 2000, pp.642-5).

    The metropolitan area therefore becomes the scene for interconnections between a diversity of people and places where

    creative inspiration can tap into.

      There is therefore cross fertilisation occurring between cultural diversity and the metropolis: the vibrant metropolisthrives off diversity, while diversity nds a natural habitat in the metropolis, where being different is part of the ‘norm’ and

    peculiarity of denizens. Yet cultural industries are often subject to competitive pressures that encourage agglomeration of

    production yet globalisation of output circulation (Scott 2004). This has often been linked to discussions about the threat

    of cultural homogenisation or even ‘imperialism, as the circulation of cultural products and symbols mainly originating from

    the West is perceived to lead to a levelling of cultural consumption across the globe (for a discussion, see Throsby 2001,

    p.156-7). We would argue that we are witnessing parallel processes of homogenisation and differentiation, as global and

    local forces interact. This raises an important question about diversity in the cultural economy overall, which we will ap-

    proach in the following section, where we explore a crucial mechanism at work in the cultural industries: cultural mediation

    and the emergence of trends and tastes, their legitimisation, and the impact this has on the range of cultural products that

    come to see the day.

    “There are people who

    miscalculate their links to

    African traditions in their

    fashion designs. I mean, ifyou want to want to have

    some Japanese inuences

    in your clothes, it doesn’t

    mean that you have to dress

    up as a Japanese! You

    should think about what

    an Italian (referring to the

    interview) wears and bring

    something new, somethingdifferent to what she wears.

    I am not going to impose

    something. I am an African

    stylist, but it doesn’t mean

    that I can only do something

    nice by doing something

    original”

    (Interview n.31, fashion designer)

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    Mediation in the cultural industries

      In this day and era, the diversity of cultural industry products that are available to us as consumers is subject to forc-

    es of cultural mediation. Trends and fads are wide ranging in their geographical scope: some are globalized and adopted

    the world through. Some are very localised, linked to local, regional traditions.

    Many creative activities are characterised by a large pool of creative hopefuls and a more or less continuous over-supply of applicants (Becker 1982; Frank and Cook 1995; Eikhof and Haunschild 2007). Consequently, only a fraction

    of the creative work actually gets commodied, entering the production cycle and giving rise to economic value added.

    Production and consumption can be thus seen as embedded spatially, historically, and socially. In this sense, consumption

    can be in seen as an institutional eld, centred around the production of commodities for individual demand and structured

    around ‘interconnected economic and cultural institutions’, highlighting the strong interconnections of consumption with its

    social context (Zukin and Maguire 2004, p.175).

    The model of production on which cultural industries are based generally gives rise to an over-supply of raw mate-

    rial. This characteristic of cultural production requires an ‘over-supply of raw material at the outset and pinpoints a number

    of strategic checkpoints at which the oversupply is ltered out’ (Hirsch 1972, p.649; Brandellero and Kloosterman 2007).

    There is a risk involved in the volatility with which audiences/consumers use cultural commodities in order to express they

    are different from other people7 . This results in a strong emphasis on audience maximization to minimize the risk, putting

    together a large ‘cultural repertoire’ (Garnham and Inglis 1990, p.161). Volatility requires an over-supply of outputs to max-

    imise chances of success (Hirsch 1972), and as a result, an over-supply of inputs further upstream, in the creative phase.

    It also often results in an ‘options’ type contract, where at different stages between the original idea and its realisation, the

    option to pull the plug on a project remains open (Caves 2000).

    Figure 4 - Posters at La Chapelle show the vibrancy of the Paris music scene

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      The producer of a cultural good is therefore faced with a merciless state of uncertainty, known as the ‘nobody

    knows’ property (Caves 2000). Cultural goods display the property of horizontal differentiation, whereby products are

    similar but not identical. This property is connected to the innite variety property, which invokes the plethora of creative

    possibilities a creative worker can draw upon in his or her work. In this context of variety, making a choice between product

    A or B becomes complex. Information becomes a crucial element in the decision-making process, yet nding this is often

    delegated to intermediaries, who rank creative work according to an A list/B list (Becker 1982; Caves 2000). This vertical

    differentiation between products results from our comparative appreciation of them, yet our appreciation is by no meansshaped in a vacuum: hence the importance of exploring how trends come about.

    At rst glance, trends can seem unfair: the winner receives a prize, whereas the losers walk away empty-handed.

    The so-called Matthew effect8, initially applied to research on how recognition is given in science, has been widely studied

    and applied to research on mass consumption and trends (Merton 1988). Fashion and trends have been described as

    following a bell-shaped, Gauss-type curve, representing the strong ascent of trends reaching a peak, only to descend into

    oblivion straight after (Erner 2008, p.10). Trends are therefore seen as a type of behaviour adopted on a temporary basis

    by a signicant part of a social group, the reason being that this behaviour is perceived as socially appropriate for that time

    and context (Sproles 1985). This process of adoption requires some form of historical continuity with previous fashions in

    order to receive collective acceptance, even when the fashion choices are innovative (Blumer 1969). Malcolm Gladwell’s

    Tipping Point conceptualises the critical point at which objects or practices are diffused in the way of an epidemic. This

    social phenomenon occurs by virtue of three categories of people: mavens, connectors and salesmen. Mavens are knowl-

    edgeable individuals and direct others towards objects in a more disinterested way. Connectors on the other hand play a

    more active, often unfocused, role in linking people and in disseminating trends through word of mouth. Finally, the sales-

    men have a direct nancial or symbolic stake in diffusing trends (Gladwell 2000).

      Demand uncertainty in the cultural industries is caused by shifting consumer preferences, but also by the criteria of

    selection mobilised by gatekeepers. Gatekeepers can be seen as ‘surrogate consumers’ serving as fashion experts and

    opinion leaders for their respective elds of activity (Hirsch 1972). These workers who come in between symbolic creators

    and consumers, creating points of articulation and connection between them. They are key to translating the value of new

    commodities to audiences, engaged as they are in regulating access and exclusion to industries involved in the productionof symbolic goods and services - often through small networks of connections, shared values and common life experi-

    ences (Negus 2002, p.503-11). Gatekeepers are pivotal in maintaining the specic identity of the local production system,

    adopting a role of taste-makers. These individuals shape tastes and trends, ‘what sells’ and what is destined to be a op,

    by power of the ‘pen’, as is the case of journalists for instance. ‘Inuencers’ are generally speaking ahead of their times

    and through their tastes and choices inuence those of the rest of the population (Patterson, Grenny et al. 2007). This

    involves developing ‘aesthetic principles, arguments, and judgements’ that constitute a signicant part of the ‘conventions’

    by means of which members of art worlds act together. Artists in general nd themselves seeking, or in any case, needing

    the approval of such institutionalised peer reviewers in order to access market openings something which is questioned in

    the case of artists with a subversive cult following (Currid 2007).

    Producers and promoters of cultural industry products play a key role within the cultural industries, transforming

    talent and creative ideas into commodiable9  and marketable goods and services. We envisage the presence of a ‘com-

    modication boundary’ (see gure 8 in the following section), as a negotiated passage between creativity and the cultural

    industry production chain, modulated by trade-offs between cultural and economic considerations over the anticipated out-

    comes of a product in a market exchange environment (Brandellero and Kloosterman 2007). In this sense, gatekeepers do

    not just decide on who gets through but also on how. Creating an explicit aesthetic may precede, follow, or be simultaneous

    with developing the techniques, forms, and works which make up the art world’s output. The creation of aesthetic systems

    can be an ‘industry in its own right’ though, developed and maintained by specialised professionals such as critics (Becker

    1982, p.131-2). The role of mediators is to initiate customers to their understanding and adoption of these new trends and

    fads. While this role was initially devolved to the press, we subsequently witness the emergence of the branchés (from the

    French for wired, hip), i.e. social gures who are seen as up to date with trends and what is ‘in’ and what is not (Erner 2008,p.36)10 .

    As products in the cultural industries tend to be taste-driven and performance-driven (Currid 2007), selection fo-

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    cuses on the aesthetic qualities of the product. In a discussion with a world music label manager in Paris, it emerged that

    a journalist from the renowned Le Monde newspaper had stormed out of a concert by an African musician a couple of

    minutes from the start of the performance, claiming that ‘there are no drums in music from Mali’11 . The ndings of research

    on career paths of visual artists in the UK are also particularly telling. Many black artists found that it was difcult to get a

    following for their work, celebrations of diversity appeared to be more rewarded by galleries than by a critical perspective

    on it (Honey, Heron et al. 1997). Here it would appear that, while on the one hand the institutional framework might be sup-

    porting the progression of migrants (or more generally speaking, as in this case, cultural entrepreneurs of ethnic origin), onthe other it might be steering them towards specic market niches.

    The idea that different social classes distinguish themselves by means of their consumption patterns was forged

    by Edmond Goblot in his work on consumption as a ‘barrier’ between the bourgeoisie and other classes; at the same time,

    the signs and objects pertinent to the bourgeoisie’s consumption patterns constitute an objective lower classes strive to

    reach (Goblot 1925). Building upon this, Bourdieu talked about tastes as ‘social markers’. Tastes develop according to a

    person’s capital (the set of social or cultural resources an individual benets from due to his belonging to a specic class)

    and habitus (the conscious/unconscious forms of behaviour an individual incorporates during his rst socialisation experi-

    ences, within the family or at school). He highlights in a sense some forms of social determinism, which denes our tastes

    (Bourdieu 1979).

    The discussion on fashion and trends raises the ques-

    tion of the relationship between the individual and the collectivity.

    Following trends has the psychological advantage of freeing the in-

    dividual from the pressures of individualism, of being a member of

    a group rather than an isolated being (Simmel 1988). At the same

    time, trends demarcate groups: they represent the unity within one

    group and its break with others. The idea that different social class-

    es distinguish themselves by means of their consumption patterns

    was forged by Edmond Goblot in his work on consumption as a

    ‘barrier’ between the bourgeoisie and other classes; at the sametime, the signs and objects pertinent to the bourgeoisie’s consump-

    tion patterns constitute an objective lower classes strive to reach

    (Goblot 1925). Building upon this, Bourdieu talked about tastes as

    ‘social markers’. Tastes develop according to a person’s capital (the set of social or cultural resources an individual benets

    from due to his belonging to a specic class) and habitus (the conscious/unconscious forms of behaviour an individual

    incorporates during his rst socialisation experiences, within the family or at school). He highlights in a sense some forms

    of social determinism, which denes our tastes (Bourdieu 1979).

    According to Daniel Bell, fashion trends have replaced

    the distinction between high culture and mass culture: what has

    emerged is the distinction between what is fashionable and what is

    outdated. This distinction allows the capitalist system to base itself

    on a system of competition whereby the industry benets from the

    democratisation of trends. The market domination is insured by the

    innovation of trends and their renewal (Bell 1996). Also pointing to-

    wards the inuence of the commercial on our tastes, Barthes stat-

    ed ‘the commercial origin of our collective image-system (always

    subject to fashion, not merely in the case of clothing), cannot be a

    mystery to anyone’ (Barthes 1990, p.xii). This can be seen as the

    ‘total dictatorship of fashion’, whereby producers within a capitalist

    system have a limitless manipulation capacity over consumers ofobjects.

    “This richness in the diver- 

    sity of people who create

    trends plays a very impor- 

    tant role in France. As some

    say, there is no fashion with- 

    out culture.”

    (Interview n.14, fashion designer)

    “Different trends are part

    of the environment of big

    cities. Some are rather

    reticent, they say ‘African

    prints! They don’t belong to

    European culture!’. But in

    large cities, people can be

    more open, they live side by

    side with people from differ- 

    ent cultures.” 

    (Interview n.30, fashion designer)

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      In recent years though, a new theory of trends has emerged, attempting to supplant the widely accepted notion of a

    Pareto distribution of products and markets: this suggested that in a market with a high freedom of choice of products, the

    buying patterns of the population will result in a certain level of inequality, whereby 20% of the products (i.e. the head) will

    be favoured against the other 80% (i.e. the long tail). This theory puts forward the idea that exactly this neglected ‘long tail’

    will come to matter increasingly in the future, as would appear from the observation of online buying trends on sites such

    as Amazon. ‘If the 20th century was about hits, the 21st will be equally about misses’, claimed the long tail proponent Chris

    Anderson (Anderson 2004, p.172). Should this be the case, the potential for minority tastes gaining visibility and a niche inthe market would prove a signicant boost to diversity of cultural industry products and their consumption patterns.

    This raises questions concerning the third element in our opportunity structure analysis: the study of diversity,

    culture and ethnicity. We argue that in the cultural industries, the symbolic understanding of products is more often than

    not mediated through the prism of cultural diversity and as a result, of ethnicity imposing a certain reading of ethnicity and

    ‘roots’ to products, based on either their content or the background of their creator.

    Ethnicity, culture and diversity

      Ethnicity is ‘widely associated with culture, descent, group

    memories, histories and language’ (Karner 2007, p.17). Ethnicity,

    and to the same extent, race are not naturally occurring entities,

    but rather ‘rely upon social processes and discourses that construct

    and subsequently naturalise/reify group differences’ (Karner 2007,

    p.17). ‘Ethnie’ is dened as a ‘named population with myths of com-

    mon ancestry, shared historical memories, one or more elements of

    common culture [eg. Religion, customs, language], a [frequent] link

    with a homeland and a sense of solidarity among at least some of its

    members’ (Hutchinson and Smith 1996, p.6). This draws the atten-tion to the question of names or labels, which members of an ethnic

    group or ‘outsiders’ use to dene the group itself (Karner 2007). It

    should here be noted that the history of incorporation of migrants

    and ethnic groups cannot be separated from the changes in ethnic

    and racial boundaries, which have been stretched over time (Lee

    and Bean 2004).

      Culture and ethnicity are intertwined in multiple ways.

    Discussions have often been centred around the question of cul-

    ture, the individual and his/her relation to a wider group of ‘belong-

    ing’ (Karner 2007). One of the key debates in the sociology of cul-

    ture has centred around ethnocentrism, highlighting the tension between the idea of one culture and of multiple cultures.

    This idea combines on the one hand a refusal to accept cultural diversity and the relativity of one’s own culture, and on the

    other hand the rejection of those who do not share one’s same culture (Fleury 2008). There is a form of primordialism or

    cultural determinism here, entailing a more or less non-negotiable power of ethnic ties (Geertz 1997) or a form of essential-

    ism, which points to an essence transcending historical and cultural boundaries (Brah 2001, p.253). A second issue in the

    study of culture is that of culturalism: here cultures are seen as having specic traits, which are unaltered and transmitted

    across generations (Fleury 2008, p.11). The Norwegian social anthropologist Frederik Barth made a signicant contribution

    to these discussions by pointing out that ‘the critical focus of the investigation […] becomes the ethnic boundary that denes

    the group, not the cultural stuff that it encloses’ (Barth 1969, p.15). In doing so, Barth made a step forward in the concep-

    tualisation of ethnicity, by introducing a social constructivist perspective whereby ethnicity is a social organisation based onthe drawing and reproduction of group boundaries. His criticism of traditional associations of race=language=culture were

    mainly based on the idea that ‘while purporting to give an ideal type model of a recurring empirical form, it implies a precon-

    ceived view of what are the signicant factors in the genesis, structure, and function of such groups’ (Barth 1969, p.11).

    “I had a big ght with the de - 

    signer teacher there because

    it was like, I came from

    Curacao and he was trying

    to tell me what is beautiful.

    And it was like, this is dread- 

    ful, how come you’re in this

    position to teach people, if

    you are telling me that it’s

     just, your eyes are telling

    me, there is something in

    your eyes, no I don’t believe

    that.” 

    (Interview n.25, fashion designer)

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    Figure 5  - François Essindi and Jimi Soto from Abakuya, Paris

      The idea of isolated ethnic groups limits our understanding of cultural diversity, in the sense that it imagines culturaldifference as being developed in isolation in each group (see discussion in Barth 1969, p.11). “Ethnic categories provide

    an organizational vessel that may be given varying amounts and forms of content in different socio-cultural systems. They

    may be of great relevance to behaviour, but they need not be; they may pervade all social life, or they may be relevant only

    in limited sectors of activity”. The critical element then becomes self-ascription or ascription by others (Barth 1969, p.14).

    “One is led to identify and distinguish ethnic groups by the morphological characteristics of the cultures of which they are

    the bearers. This entails a prejudged viewpoint both on (1) the nature of continuity in time of such units, and (2) the locus

    of the factors which determine the form of the units” (Barth 1969, p.12). Here we touch upon the concept of ‘homology’,

    one of the basic principles of the sociology of culture, meaning the notion that the boundaries between cultural forms align

    with the boundaries between groups. Different audiences have preferences for different artistic and musical genres, and

    conversely those genres often help constitute boundaries between groups’ (Roy 2002, p.461).

      The study of ethnic identities is rather problematic in the sense that it runs the risk of being reductionist and limiting

    the scope of human agency by suggesting that individuals are fully determined by their group belonging or culture (Karner

    2007, p.91). Another aspect which is often overlooked is the question of multiple identities and the distinction between dis-

    course and practice. In this context, Baumann has referred to ‘dual discursive competence’ stating that ‘most people prac-

    tice a double discursive competence when it comes to their discourses about culture, and they develop this dual discursive

    competence more strongly the more they expose themselves to multicultural practices […]. We thus cannot advance a

    multicultural understanding of culture if we treat the essentialist view and the processual view as two opposite theories and

    call one of them true and the other one false’ (Baumann 1999, pp.93-4).

    Ethnicity emerges therefore not as a unitary phenomenon but as a reminder that we should look beyond labels andgroups, at the circumstances under which it comes to matter (Fenton 2003). ‘Difference in the sense of social relations

    may be understood as the historical and contemporary trajectories of material circumstances and cultural practices which

    produce the conditions for the construction of group identities. The concept refers to the interweaving of shared collec-

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    tive narratives within feelings of community, whether or not this ‘community’ is constituted in face-to-face encounters orimagined, in the sense that Benedict Anderson (1991) suggests (Brah 2001). As a result, we should look at ethnicity from

    the set of structures which constrain and enable simultaneously social action, the cognitive way of interpreting it, and the

    biographically grounded, emotionally charged way of living (see Karner 2007).

    The question of identity is also relevant here: ‘identication is constructed on the back of recognition of common ori-

    gin or shared characteristics with another person or group’. Identities thus become ‘about questions of using the resources

    of history, language and culture in the process of becoming rather than being: not so much ‘who we are’ or ‘where we came

    from’, so much as what we might become, how we have been represented and how that bears on how we might represent

    ourselves. Identities are therefore constituted within not outside representation’. As a result, identities are not about com-

    ing to terms with our ‘roots’ but rather our ‘routes’ (Hall 1996, p.2-4). Stuart Hall therefore points out the importance of the

    socialisation environment and wider context in shaping and negotiating individual identities. The ‘primordia’ associated with

    ethnic identity is often a case of ‘invented traditions’ (Hobsbawm and Ranger 1983).

    Jenkins talks about a dual aspect of ethnicity, distinguishing between ‘social classication’ as the external imposi-

    tion of a classication grid on populations, involving powerful outsiders and the reproduction of boundaries, and ‘group

    identication’ as people’s experience of solidarity and meaning as self-identifying group members (Jenkins 1997). These

    phenomena are inextricably linked, constituting two distinct processes of ‘ascription’, that is of ascribing specic character-

    istics to a group or to oneself (Karner 2007). These two perspectives provide two viewpoints from which biographies are

    lived and observed.

    “The inuence if I go back

    in my mind, it’s more like

    walking on this bridge, or

    the trees, the grass, the

    waves when you go swim- ming. Those things are the

    main inuence I think. And

    later on when I came to

    Europe, you see the paint- 

    ings, architecture, things

    you have seen on paper or

    photo and you see them

    in person, later on those

    things inuenced me I

    think.” 

    (Interview n.25, fashion designer)

    Figure 6 - Posters from the festival Africolor, Paris

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      The question of ascription raises the discussion around assimilation, a term which in its history and use has rather

    dramatically changed from a description of an inevitable progression to the observation of a more complex two-way dy-

    namic process of incorporation (Alba and Nee 2003). Here it is interesting to note that while acculturation (as a process of

    adaptation) and cultural accommodation (a process of adjustment) have in the past been given high attention in dynamics

    of assimilation, more structural elements of incorporation, including social, economic and residential status, have also

    been identied as critical (for a review of literature, see Alba and Nee 2003). The idea of a straight line assimilation proc-

    ess, which implies a one way integration of migrants into the host society (Gordon 1964), has been supplanted by a morepluralist model, which introduces the idea of a two-way interaction between minorities and the mainstream, reviving the

    Chicago School approach of the evolution of a composite culture, resulting from the ‘interpenetration of cultural practices

    and beliefs’ (Alba and Nee 2003, p.10).

    Institutional approaches to ethnicity and diversity

      This research zooms into three metropolises in three different countries: Amsterdam, London and Paris. The back-

    ground to the research is therefore provided by three different approaches to the question of ethnicity and diversity and

    their reection in the policy domain.

    In France, the major classication of people is in terms of nationality: you are either a national or a foreigner

    (étranger), there being no ofcial or institutional categories to dene people once they have French nationality (Dubet

    1989). In France, republican anti-multiculturalism has always been the dominant, accepted model across the political spec-

    trum, culminating in the banning of headscarves in schools in 2004 (Modood 2007), though in recent months a discussion

    has been open on the question of recognising ethnic categorisations.

    This is clearly different from the British case where ‘eth-

    nic origin’ is recognised institutionally within the national com-

    munity (Silverman 1992). Multi-culturalism is the ‘recognition of

    group difference within the public sphere of laws, democratic dis-courses and the terms of a shared citizenship and national identity’

    (Modood 2007, p.2). In France, the idea that a person can be both

    a French citizen and have an ethnic or religious identity is unac-

    ceptable, while in Britain community cohesion promotes the com-

    bining of race or faith with the idea of being British (for a compara-

    tive study of ethnic minorities in France and Britain, see Raymond

    and Modood 2007). The Netherlands was in many ways a pioneer of multiculturalism with its Ethnic Minorities Policy

    (Minderhedennota) of 1983 and ample provisions for state-funded autonomous schools and broadcasting, combined with

    a social democratic approach to social housing, welfare benets and an afrmative action in employment. Several events,

    however, contributed to relegating multiculturalism to the ‘dung-hill of history’ in the Netherlands by 2005, notably the reac-

    tion to the murders of Pim Fortuyn and Theo van Gogh (Modood 2007, p.13).

    Given the internal and external representation of ethnicity and the relevance of group boundaries, the articulation

    of ethnicity in cultural production appears to necessitate a multi-layered analysis. Under which conditions is ethnicity mobi-

    lised in cultural production? Does it constitute an advantage or a drawback in providing the source of creative inspiration?

    To what extent is the experience of cultural products shaped by group boundaries and identications?

    “Everybody is a small slice

    of this wonderful jigsaw wecall London” 

    (Interview n.31, architect)

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    4. Migrants in the cultural industries

    Since the Second World War, the market orientation and job characteristics of mi-

    grants have manifested a tendency to become concentrated at the lower end of the

    market, in low-value added activities, with low incomes and modest prospects for

    social mobility (Waldinger, Aldrich et al. 1990; Smallbone, Bertotti et al. 2005). In

    post-industrial urban economies, migrants from less-developed countries have gen-

    erally speaking taken up lower wage and skills jobs in the manufacturing and service

    sector, or, when self-employed, run small shops (e.g. grocery stores) or restaurants

    at the lower end of the market (Jones, Barrett et al. 2000; Panayiotopoulos 2006. ).

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      Research on migrant entrepreneurship has mainly focused its attention on the interaction between the resources

    mobilized by migrants and the opportunity structures which they face. The type of businesses migrants have established

    and the sectors they have integrated have been seen as the result of the interaction between specic assets they can

    draw upon and a ‘time and place’ specic set of circumstances

    (Waldinger, Aldrich et al. 1990; Light and Rosenstein 1995; Light

    2005; Kloosterman forthcoming). Starting from a criticism of ear-

    lier frameworks (Waldinger, Aldrich et al. 1990), with their overem-phasis on cultural causality