These late 15th-century noblewomen wear gowns of English wool with contrasting lining, except for the lady holding the chalice with a purple silk gown and a bodice who was exempt from a fine due to her rank. Source: Racinet, The Complete Costume History, 2003.

The aristocratic English bride wears an ermine and red silk cape over her brocade dress and a small crown over a reticulated headdress while her groom wears a blue silk and ermine cloak over brocade. Another royal lady with a red silk gown and a cloak of gold cloth meets a gentleman wearing a blue figured tunic, red jeweled hat, and a hunting horn. None of these gentlefolk were concerned about being fined for their apparel. Source: Racinet, The Complete Costume History, 2003.

British Clothing: Protectionism, Hierarchy, and Colonization

In medieval England, as in Italy, regulations

regarding how woolen cloth was cut and

trimmed were issued. English sumptuary laws

applicable to the King’s subjects throughout

the realm primarily regulated food and clothing. Fines

incurred for wearing offending garments were paid to

the Crown. These laws had a different purpose than

those issued by the Italian city-states. In addition too

enforcing social hierarchy, the English authorities were

trying to encourage local cloth weaving by prohibiting

the importation and use of cloth manufactured in other

countries. During the reign of Edward III (1330-1377),

merchants were prohibited from selling cloth made

in another country. The King’s authorities seized

foreign-manufactured cloth from offending

merchants.

Above:These Scottish highlanders wear clothes they made locally. The dairy maids all wear the banarch of striped or square-patterned wool as a multi-function coverall, but not always shoes, while the huntsman on his pony wears trouse, close-fitting leggings similar to hose made of square-patterned wool with a matching piece over his shoulder. Source: Racinet, The Complete Costume History, 2003.

The Parliament convened during

the reign of Edward IV 1463-1464

issued a number of restrictive

regulations defining what types of

cloth could be worn, by which members of society,

and how said cloth could be cut. For instance,

any knight below the rank of lord (or his wife)

wearing cloth of gold would have to pay a fine of

£ 20. Only individuals with a substantial income

could afford this material since it sold for 80

shillings a yard during the years from 1401 to

1582. Any person below the rank of lord would

have to pay a fine of £ 10 if they wore purple

silk. Enforcement of these statues was carried

out by the sheriffs of every shire.

Although the citizens of England

were liable for punitive fines for

wearing the wrong clothes, after

the English conquered Scotland a

law was issued in 1746 that completely banned

the wearing of the native dress of the northern

highland regions—the plaid wool great kilt. This

was a six-yard length of wool cloth woven in

striped and square patterns of black and lighter-

colored yarn which was wrapped around the

waist with the end thrown over one shoulder

and worn over a shirt. This multi-purpose

attire of the men in the Scottish hills served as

clothing, cloak, and sleeping bag when necessary.

Following the uprisings of the Scottish Clans in

1745 in support of their claimant to the throne,

Prince Charlie, and their defeat at the Battle

In the 18th century the Scottish great kilt was worn with a coat cut in the style of those worn by gentlemen in England or the European continent. Source: Racinet, The Complete Costume History, 2003.

Scots in pagan and medieval times wore solid color and square-patterned lengths of wool that could be wrapped only around the waist, or around the waist and over the shoulder, with a shirt, tunic, jacket or chain mail shirt, demonstrating the versatility of the great kilt. Source: Racinet, The Complete Costume History, 2003.

of Culloden on April 16, 1746, King George II

issued the Disarming Act which included a ban

on the wearing of the kilt and the trouse effective

August 1, 1746. Except for those serving in the

King’s army, Scottish men found wearing the

offending garments were subject to six months

in prison for a first offense and deportation to

any of “His Majesty’s plantations beyond the

seas, there to remain for the period of seven

years.” – This was effectively a death sentence

because those who were sent as forced labor to

the any of the colonies did not usually survive.

Members of the English nobility in the 14th century wear a close-fitting thigh length tunic while the lady wears a cotehardie, a garment closely fitted to the body usually buttoned all the way down the front that was worn by both sexes. The gentlemen’s version is a close-fitting thigh length tunic with a belt, while the lady wears one that hugs her figure probably made of patterned silk. Source: Racinet, The Complete Costume History, 2003.

WHAT NOT TO WEAR: rites, ranks and regulations