brooklyn bread 11/18/10 vol. 1 no. 2

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The good folks of Eagle Street Rooftop Farm held a Giving Thanks Dinner at Brooklyn Kitchen this past Saturday. Photograph by Allen Ying – see pages 6-12 for more Good Food News « Delivered Fresh BREAD BROOKLYN INSIDE THE FREE MAGAZINE THAT’S FULL OF GOOD FOOD & DRINK... MY PERFECT DAY By Saul Bolton PAGE 15 Making Pork Schnitzel, The Prime Meats Way PAGE 13 Tasty Things To Try This Weekend PAGES 4-5 Second Annual Brooklyn Pie Bake-Off Benefit PAGES 14-22 Life Behind The Bar At Sycamore PAGE 37 Thursday, November 25, 2010 « Vol. 1, No. 2 « Free Publication « Brooklyn, NY

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Brooklyn Bread is a new weekly magazine that celebrates the borough’s thriving food community and diverse food culture.

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Page 1: Brooklyn Bread 11/18/10 Vol. 1 No. 2

The good folks of Eagle Street Rooftop Farm held a Giving Thanks Dinner at Brooklyn Kitchen this past Saturday. Photograph by Allen Ying – see pages 6-12 for more

Good Food News « Delivered Fresh

BREADBROOKLYN

INSIDE THE FREE MAGAZINE THAT’S FULL OF GOOD FOOD & DRINK...

MY PERFECT DAY By Saul BoltonPAGE 15

Making Pork Schnitzel, The Prime Meats WayPAGE 13

Tasty Things To Try This WeekendPAGES 4-5

Second Annual Brooklyn Pie Bake-Off BenefitPAGES 14-22

Life Behind The Bar At SycamorePAGE 37

Thursday, November 25, 2010 « Vol. 1, No. 2 « Free Publication « Brooklyn, NY

Page 2: Brooklyn Bread 11/18/10 Vol. 1 No. 2

Page 2 Thursday, November 25, 2010BROOKLYN BREADPage 2

AlmanacTHURSDAY November 25Showers

VHigh Temperature: 48Low Temperature: 40Chance of Turkey: 100%Sunrise: 6:54amSunset: 4:32pmMoon phase: 89% visible

FRIDAY November 26Few showers

VHigh Temperature: 47Low Temperature: 32Chance of Rain: 30%Sunrise: 6:55am Sunset: 4:31pmMoon phase: 81% visible

SATURDAY November 27Sunny

GHigh Temperature: 46Low Temperature: 35Chance of Rain: 0%Sunrise: 6:56am Sunset: 4:31pmMoon phase: 71% visible

SUNDAY November 28Sunny

GHigh Temperature: 49Low Temperature: 35Chance of Rain: 10%Sunrise: 6:58amSunset: 4:31pmMoon phase: 61% visible

From The Editors

IF THIS is the first time you have set eyes on this pub-lication, welcome! We hope you will enjoy our richly flavored mix of words and photographs, all of which is intended to inform you about the wonderful things to eat and drink and visit in Brooklyn... and then inspire you to go and support the artisans and vendors who produce and sell this borough’s bounty in the best way

possible! By the way, if you caught last week’s issue (our first ever), we’re delighted to have you back.

Whether you are a new or returning reader, here’s a snap-shot of what’s in this issue: there are tasty things to try in the borough this weekend (pages 4 and 5); an events guide that will have you salivating (page 7); recipes for pie crust, bread, fondue, pork schnitzel and collard greens; a mouth-watering walk around Brooklyn with local restaurant pioneer Saul Bolton (page 15); the fascinating story of the Foffe restaurant family from the folks at the Brooklyn Public Library (page 19); an interview with the man behind the bar at Sycamore (page 37)... and photographic cover-age of events from pie bake-offs to flea markets and benefit din-ners.

It all adds up to one thing – a celebration of Brooklyn’s diverse food culture... the people who produce the goods, and the people who enjoy them. That’s what makes Brooklyn Bread different from any publication you’ve ever seen.

Enjoy the issue. Enjoy Brooklyn.Danielle Franca Swift & Jack Wright

Our TeamEditor Danielle Franca Swift

Editor Jack Wright

Project Manager Dan Mathers

Assistant Editor Jon Roth

Contributing Editor Jason Greenberg

Illustrator Liza Corsillo

DistributionCatherine Barreda

Advertising SalesErica IzenbergJen Messier

ContributorsStella Dixon, Emily Elsen, Melissa Elsen, Cathy Erway, Sara Franklin, Joy Holland, Sarah McColl, Annie Novak, Laura Nuter

PhotographersJen Campbell, Sara Heidinger, Justin Nunnink, Lawrence Sumulong, John Suscovich, Allen Ying

Brooklyn Bread is published every Thursday by Brooklyn Bread Press P.O. Box 150026 Brooklyn, NY 11215(917) 740-1072www.brooklynbreadpress.com

Printed on recycled paper using soy-based inks.

Page 3: Brooklyn Bread 11/18/10 Vol. 1 No. 2

Thursday, November 25, 2010 Page 3BROOKLYN BREAD

Things To Try This Weekend 4-5How about a couple days filled with treats both inspiring and indulgent?

The Events Guide 7Plenty of ways to enjoy yourself in the week ahead.

Humble Pie 8The art of baking crust, by the girls at Four and Twenty Blackbirds.

The Cheese Report 8Laura Nuter has some irresistible fondue recipes.

Our Favorite Things 9Places to drink coffee, enjoy breakfast, eat cake, and throw back a nightcap.

A Lily And A Loaf Of Bread 11Sarah McColl reports on an inspiring new business idea.

Try This At Home! 13Cathy Erway shows us how to enjoy the best food around... in our own homes.

A Perfect Day In Brooklyn 15Join Saul Bolton of Saul Restaurant as he enjoys a day to remember.

Adopt An Animal 17Two gorgeous dogs and one cute cat need a home. Can you help?

Edible History Of Brooklyn 19The fascinating story behind Maison Foffe in Brooklyn Heights.

From Soil To Plate 23Sara Franklin on how to make collard greens sexy again.

The Big Picture 32Pies. A lot of pies. At the second annual Brooklyn benefit bake-off.

Confessions Of A Waitress 35An illuminating, charming look into the life of a server, by Stella Dixon.

Bartender Of The Week 37Andy Zimmerman on life at Sycamore.

Brooklyn Bread Rate Card 39Everything you need to know!

Inside This IssueA smorgasbord of photographs, advice, wisdom and wit!

Eagle Street Rooftop Farm’s Giving Thanks DinnerHeld at the Brooklyn Kitchen p6-12

Second Annual Brooklyn Pie Bake-OffIt’s a tough job, but someone had to judge it p14-24

Kings County General Store At SouthpawArtisans peddle their lovely wares, and you get to enjoy them p28-34

First Annual Hattie Carthan Market Farmy Folks Soirée Featuring locally-produced wines, breads and other goodies p36-38

Page 4: Brooklyn Bread 11/18/10 Vol. 1 No. 2

Page 4 Thursday, November 25, 2010BROOKLYN BREAD

Tasty Things To Try This WeekendYour fun guide to some serious eating in the wonderful borough of Brooklyn... by Jason Greenberg

Sunday Suppers At Lot 2Every Sunday evening starting at 6pm, Lot 2 in Greenwood Heights offers a four-course family-style meal for $25 ($12 for kids) that changes weekly. According to the restaurant, it’s a chance to “slow down, eat simply and appreciate the people and things we value most.” Recent dishes have included cider-braised chicken, heritage roast pork loin with brown butter apple sauce and gingerbread ice box cake with whisky-cream cheese frosting. Stop in to join what is quickly becoming a neighborhood tradition. 687 6th Avenue, 718-499-5623, lot2restaurant.com.

Sundae Of Broken Dreams At Brooklyn Farmacy & Soda FountainStepping into Brooklyn Farmacy is to step back in time, into a Norman Rockwell moment of Americana. Peter Freeman took over this abandoned former pharmacy on the corner of Sackett and Henry and with help from the Discovery Channel’s Construc-tion Intervention opened this old-fashioned soda fountain and ice cream shop. Behind the bar, soda jerks prepare childhood favor-ites like milk shakes, sundaes, floats and of course egg creams. It’s also part-country store – the walls are lined with local prod-ucts and the flavors change seasonally. One mainstay is the Sundae of Broken Dreams: Adirondack Creamery’s vanilla ice cream, broken pretzels, warm caramel sauce and whipped cream. A sundae that transports you to wherever your happy place might be. 513 Henry Street, 718, 522-6260, brooklynfarmacy.blogspot.com.

Dumplings At The Good ForkLocated in an unassuming building, on the sometimes desolate Van Brunt Street, the Good Fork has been bringing diners to Red Hook since 2006. Husband-and-wife team Ben Schneider and Sohui Kim offer their accessible menu full of comfort foods like homemade pappardelle with lamb ragu, or roasted brussels sprouts with poached egg and serrano ham. But it was the Korean-influenced items on the menu that got nationwide attention. When Bobby Flay challenged their beloved dumpling to a throwdown, and lost, people took notice. The dumplings are famous for a reason. The light airy wrapper and the perfect pork and chive filling combine to create something special. 391 Van Brunt Street, 718- 643-6636, goodfork.com.

Urban Oyster’s Fermented NY Craft Beer CrawlOn Saturday afternoons throughout the year, Urban Oyster walking tours features a craft beer crawl through Williamsburg. The approximately three-hour tour begins at Mugs’ Ale House, at 125 Bedford Avenue, and continues to a variety of craft beer bars as well as a brewery and a beer store. Tickets for the event must be purchased in advance for $55 and includes at least 10 beer tastings (which seems about right), “substantial” food to help absorb the alcohol, a beer tast-ing guide sheet, and a tour guide with maps. www.urbanoyster.com.

Smoked Meat Sandwich At Mile EndA native of Montreal, Noah Bernamoff moved to New York to go to law school. He wound up dropping out and opening a Montreal style Jewish deli in Boerum Hill, and we should all be thankful. Although the short menu features the requisite (and deli-cious) matzoh ball soup, Montreal staple poutine and house-made salami (blended from a custom blend of brisket and short rib from Pat LaFrieda) the star of the show is the smoked meat sandwich. Smoked meat is essentially the Canadian version of pas-trami. Piled on top of Orwasher’s rye and slathered with mustard, it satisfies on the

Cheers! Urban Oyster’s Fermented Craft Beer Crawl happens every Saturday. Photograph from urbanoyster.com

Irresistible: There’s a reason the Good Fork’s dumplings have become nationally famous. Try them.

Page 5: Brooklyn Bread 11/18/10 Vol. 1 No. 2

Thursday, November 25, 2010 Page 5BROOKLYN BREAD

deepest levels and redefines the deli sand-wich altogether. 97A Hoyt Street, 718-852-7510.

McClure’s Spicy Bloody Mary MixInspired by their great grandmother’s recipe, the McClure family began making pickles in 2006. In addition to their pickles and relish they now also offer a delicious spicy bloody mary mix. Using their spicy pickle brine, tomato paste, fresh cucumber juice and other fresh and local ingredients, their bloody mary mix may have you brunching at home more often. Mixed with vodka and garnished with a McClure’s pickle, it’s a pretty mean bloody mary. mcclurespickles.com.

Gatorita At The LeveeThe perfect answer to the fancy cocktail trend, has to be the Levee’s Gatorita. Made with lemon-lime Gatorade and tequila it might be the most surprisingly perfect combination. Refreshing and unlike most margaritas, not too sweet, the Gatorita is a great alternative to your PBRs. But don’t be fooled by the Gatorade, there is still plenty of tequila in each one. 212 Berry Street, 718-218-8787, theleveenyc.com.

Burger at Dram Shop BarDram Shop Bar partner Clay Mallows’

closely guarded burger recipe has been in his family for generations and is one very good reason to stop into Dram Shop. Along with a constantly changing beer menu, exten-sive whiskeys and bourbon, their excellent, albeit messy, burger may be one of the best in Brooklyn. Two thin square beef patties, piled high with shredded lettuce, tomato, pickles, mayo, mustard and melted American cheese on a sesame seed bun, it’s essentially a Big Mac done right. Each burger will cost you $10. And since each burger is accompanied by crispy hand-cut fries, it’s also one of the borough’s best deals. 339 9th Street, 718-788-1444, dramshopbrooklyn.com.

The burger at the Dram Shop Bar is one of the best in Brooklyn – the whiskeys and bourbons are great, too!Photograph from www.dapperscout.com

On Sunday evenings, Lot 2 offer family-style dinners that are high on value and taste.Photograph by Justin Nunnink

There are many reasons to visit Brooklyn Farmacy & Soda Fountain, but the best one might be the Sundae of Broken Dreams. Photograph by Justin Nunnink

Page 6: Brooklyn Bread 11/18/10 Vol. 1 No. 2

Page 6 Thursday, November 25, 2010BROOKLYN BREAD

Eagle Street Rooftop Farm Giving Thanks Dinner

Saturday, November 20 at Brooklyn Kitchen

Han Hung, Everett Sanderson, Toby Adams, Eric Sanderson

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALLEN YING

Brian Cicero, Vera Fabian, Gordon Jenkins, Annie Hauck-Lawson, Alana Lawson

Camille Valdes, Brian Moroz, Pamela Eng, Jessica Austerlitz, Sean Weiss, Stefanie Mohr, Matthew Craig

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Page 7: Brooklyn Bread 11/18/10 Vol. 1 No. 2

Thursday, November 25, 2010 Page 7BROOKLYN BREAD

The Brooklyn Food & Drink Events Guide’Tis just about the time to indulge yourselves... here are some tips

11/30 EAT/ART: Atlantic Gallery Holiday Art Show Benefiting Just FoodA food-focused art exhibition celebrating food that nourishes both people and the planet – 10% of the proceeds from all pur-chases will be donated to Just Food. Atlantic Gallery, 135 West 29th, Suite 601, Manhattan, 212 219-3183, atlanticgallery.org,justfood.org.

11/30 Chili Season At Char No. 4Your bourbon-and-barbecue HQ Char No. 4 is offering a Tuesday night chili extrava-ganza. For $22, enjoy a bowl of smoked short rib and pork shoulder chili, with bacon-jalapeño corn bread and honey butter. Add to that a complimentary beer-and-whiskey combo that changes each week and you really do have something of beauty. Char No. 4, 196 Smith Street, Carroll Gardens, 718-643-2106, charno4.com.

11/30 Piglet Party 2010: Celebrating The Second Annual Tournament Of CookbooksHosted by Charlotte Druckman and food52 co-founders Amanda Hesser and Merrill Stubbs. Come raise a glass with authors and judges as you sample fare from local vendors such as Van Leeuwen, Rick’s Picks, Dorie Greenspan, Liddabit Sweets, Mexicue, Nuts + Nuts, Theo Peck, Salumeria Rosi, June Taylor, Lucy’s Whey and Lush at this event celebrating the culmination of this year’s tournament. There will be wine from Hanna Winery and beer from Kelso of Brooklyn, as well as a special Piglet cocktail! 92Y Tribeca, 200 Hudson Street, Tribeca, http://www.food52.com. For more info, visit brownpapertickets.com.

11/30 Pot Pies At Ger-Nis Culinary & Herb CenterNothing says winter quite like warm root vegetables and seasonal spices wrapped in a fresh pastry crust the way that pot pies do. Warming you up from the inside out, pot pies embody the feeling of comfort and coziness. Come get cozy with the folks at Ger-Nis while they whip up this classic pie and experiment with new approaches to the traditional. You can forget the regular typi-cal crust business – these guys get creative and experiment with other varieties. Step in from the cold, take your boots off, and we can all warm up the right way together – in the kitchen. Here are the treats you will enjoy this coming Tuesday: shepherd’s pie, chicken and potato curry pot pie, pear pot pie, turkey

pot pie with herb cheddar in a biscuit crust, moroccan chicken curry pot pie with puff pastry, kale and sausage apple pot pie. We are SO there! From 6:30pm to 9:30pm at Ger-Nis Culinary & Herb Center, 540 President Street Suite 2E, Gowanus, 347-422-0337, ger-nis.com.

12/1 Take A Class At The Brooklyn Botanical Gardens This Winter! Classes include Rooftop Gardening, Urban Garden Design, Plant Propagation to Com-posting in the City. Registration begins on December 1 – go on, try a new fork in the road! Get out of your comfort zone. For more information, contact Brooklyn Botantic Garden, 1000 Washington Avenue, 718-623-7200, Prospect Heights, bbg.org/learn/classes.

12/1 Louisiana Style Peel & Eat Shrimp Boil: A Gulf Seafood Celebration at GoodsAround 150 chefs and restaurateurs across the country will let people know that Gulf seafood is not only safe to eat, but just as amazing as ever! As part of this Dine America/Dine Louisiana event, chef Alex McCrery and the Goods team will be sup-porting Louisiana fisherman with a special menu. From 6:30pm to 9:30pm at Goods, 571 Lorimer Street, Williamsburg, 347-763-1622, goodsfood.com. For more ticket information, visit brownpapertickets.com.

12/2 Wreath-Making At Sprout HomeLearn how to create and decorate your own unique custom wreath using a variety of holiday greens, branches, berries, birds, and other items to personalize your wreath. Materials fee is estimated at $35 to $75 (based on your selections) and pays for a small wreath you make and take home. From 6pm to 7pm at Sprout Home, 44 Grand Street, Wil-liamsburg, 718-388-4440.

12/5 The Greenpoint Gala: An Afternoon At Dressler For Greenpoint Soup KitchenGreat food, great cause – is there anything better in life? Gala tickets are $100 and include first-class food and drinks at the renowned Dressler restaurant. All proceeds go to the food program. The Greenpoint Gala, however, is about more than a warm moment. There is real need. When the food program opened in 2008, it distributed about 30 bags of groceries a week. Now it distrib-utes more than 400 bags. Every Wednesday, the soup kitchen serves a hot meal to between 60-80 people. Over the summer, the line of people waiting for food stretched from inside the building, across the lawn and down the sidewalk for more than 100 feet. The event is from 3:30pm to 6:30pm at Dressler, 149 Broadway, Williamsburg, 718-389-3831, dresslernyc.com. For ticket information, visit brownpapertickets.com.

Is there a dish more homey AND alluring than pot pie? Get along to Ger-Nis on November 30 for a pie extravaganza.

Page 8: Brooklyn Bread 11/18/10 Vol. 1 No. 2

Page 8 Thursday, November 25, 2010BROOKLYN BREAD

Cheese Report

Humble Pie Good Bread

By Emily and Melissa Elsen, of Four and Twenty Blackbirds,

439 3rd Avenue, Gowanus

WHEN you’ve got to make a lot of pies, you’ll want to be effi-

cient, and what better way than to make a lot of crust at once? The recipe we make by hand in the shop day every day is enough to make four custard pies, or two lattice-topped fruit pies. Use it for Thanksgiving and even if you make only one pie, you’ll have extra crust in the freezer for your next baking session – might we suggest a Thanksgiving leftover pot pie!? Mmmmm.

Makes enough dough for two double-crusted pies, or four custard pies.

1lb of unsalted butter, good quality, very cold, chopped into 1/2” pieces5 cups all-purpose unbleached flour1/4 cup of sugar1 tablespoon salt1 cup (or more if needed) ice water with 3-4 tablespoons cider vinegar incorporated

Blend flour, salt and sugar together in a large, flat bottomed bowl. Add the butter pieces and coat with flour using a bench scraper or cool hands. With a pastry blender, cut the butter into the flour, working quickly until mostly pea-sized pieces of butter remain (a few larger pieces are okay, but be careful not to overblend).

Sprinkle half a cup of the ice water over the flour mixture, turn and mix with cool hands or bench scraper. When the water is fully incorporated, add the other half cup of water, and mix

until dough comes together in a ball, with some dry bits remain-ing. Squeeze gently with your hands to bring all the dough together, sprinkling dry bits with more drops of ice water if neces-sary to combine.

Divide dough in half, and half again and shape into four slightly flat discs, wrap in plas-tic and refrigerate for at least an hour, preferably overnight to give the crust time to chill and mellow.

Dough, wrapped tightly, can be refrigerated for three days or frozen for one month.

By Laura Nuter, of Grab Specialty Foods,

438 7th Avenue, Park Slope

YES, I realize you’re still just thinking about loosening your belt a notch or two with Thanks-

giving less than 24 hours away (depending on when you’re read-ing this), but it’s never too early to begin contemplating fondue season. While this is perhaps akin to spotting Christmas decorations in Macy’s around Halloween, and with all this “global-like warm-ing” it may seem a bit premature to think about hot-n-steamy cheese... I assure you it’s never too soon! So here are some fondues and fon-don’ts...

EQUIPMENT Having the right equipment in life is essential, and this applies to fondue pots as well. While there are many varieties that will do the job, Swissmar provides some of the most durable, stylish and reasonably priced options on the market. If you’re going down this road... do it in style.

French Bread with Kalamata Olives and Thyme, from Bon Appétit

1 cup milk2 teaspoons butter2 teaspoons sugar1 cup water2 teaspoons active dry yeast for do-ahead version or quick-rising dry yeast for same-day version3/4 cup chopped Kalamata olives2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme2 teaspoons salt4 cups all purpose flourOlive oil1 egg white, beaten to blend

Bring milk to simmer. Add butter and sugar; stir until but-ter melts. Pour mixture into large bowl. Add 1 cup water and cool mixture until lukewarm. Add yeast; blend. Add olives, thyme and salt. Add 1 cup flour. Stir until flour is incorporated. Add 3 cups flour, 1 cup at a time, and stir with wood spoon until incorporated.

If needed, add up to 1/2 cup flour until dough is smooth and pulls away from sides of bowl. Oil large bowl. Transfer dough to bowl; coat with oil. Cover bowl with plastic wrap.

For do-ahead version, chill dough overnight. For same-day, let dough rise in warm area until doubled in volume (45 minutes).

Preheat to 500°F. Oil large baking sheet. Divide dough into 2 equal pieces. Form each piece into baguette 15” x 2 ¼” x 2 ½”. Transfer to baking sheet and cover. Let rise in warm area until slightly puffed (30 minutes for refrigerated dough, 15 for room temperature).

Brush top of each loaf with egg white. Spray inside of oven with water; immediately place loaves in oven. Bake 10 minutes.

Reduce to 400°F and bake until loaves are deep golden, about 35 minutes. Cool on rack.

INGREDIENTS A famous chef once told me, “If you want mediocre food, use mediocre ingredients.” I found this to be a true statement, so I suggest you avoid using the various cheese stragglers that have been linger-ing in your fridge for weeks when trying to impress your guests. Instead, head to your favorite local cheese establishment and have it cut for you that day.

QUANTITYPlan for one third to one half pound of cheese per person. While this may seem excessive, don’t skimp or you’ll likely come up short, leaving your guests wondering if you really know what you’re doing in the kitchen.

RECIPE FOR 6 (prep time 20 min-utes, cook time 15 minutes, three-quart fondue pot)

1 garlic clove (lightly crushed)1 1/2 cups dry Alsatian Riesling1 Tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice1 lb cave aged Gruyere1 lb Comté3/4 lb Scharfe Maxx1 Tablespoon corn starchSalt and freshly ground white pepper to taste

DIRECTIONSRemove the rinds of the cheese and coarsely grate into a large bowl, toss with corn starch and set aside. Rub the crushed garlic on the inside of the fondue pot, covering the entire surface – then discard garlic. Over medium heat, add wine and lemon juice together in the fondue pot and bring to a simmer. Add a handful of the cheese to the simmering wine and lemon juice and whisk until the cheese has completely melted. Add another handful and continue until all the cheese has melted. Reduce heat to low and season with salt and pepper, stir while simmering for another minute. Remove from heat and serve with the following options:Crusty baguette cubedSeared beef tenderloin tipsBoiled fingerling potatoesBoiled cauliflowerCornichons

Page 9: Brooklyn Bread 11/18/10 Vol. 1 No. 2

Thursday, November 25, 2010 Page 9BROOKLYN BREAD

Our Favorite Places To...Drink coffee, eat breakfast, eat cake, and enjoy a nightcap

MINA SOLIMAN, 37, event coordinator, Fort Greene«Drink coffee: My local deli«Eat breakfast: Roebling Tea Room, Williamsburg«Eat cake: Madiba Restaurant, Fort Greene«Enjoy a nightcap: Dino, Fort Greene

C.D. HAPPLE, 63, elementary school teacher, Seattle«Drink coffee: Choice Market «Eat breakfast: Olea, Fort Greene«Eat cake: Choice Market«Enjoy a nightcap: I don’t

CARLOS PRIETO, 45, psychologist, Park Slope«Drink coffee: Prospect Perk«Eat breakfast: Street fruit vendors «Eat cake: I don’t «Enjoy a nightcap: I don’t

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072

Page 10: Brooklyn Bread 11/18/10 Vol. 1 No. 2

Page 10 Thursday, November 25, 2010BROOKLYN BREAD

Danielle Gould, Erica Tunick, and a strange root

Ericka Martins, Colombe Jacobsen

Sarah Graves, Sam Cohen, Heather deKoning, John Foley

Eagle Street Rooftop Farm Giving Thanks DinnerSaturday, November 20 at Brooklyn Kitchen

Mary Cleaver, Emma Hollister Adriana Jovanović

Tony Argento, Rose Moura, Amy Trachtman, Kimberly Guinta

Neil Despres, Meg Paska, Stacey Murphy

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALLEN YING... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072

Page 11: Brooklyn Bread 11/18/10 Vol. 1 No. 2

BROOKLYN BREADThursday, November 25, 2010 Page 11

A Lily And A Loaf Of BreadTwo woman, one dream... by Sarah McColl

IT IS a Tuesday night on a leafy side street in Prospect Heights, and people from Park Slope are asking if the hous-ing stock north of Flatbush is filled with more apartments like this one. The

kitchen, wide enough for a farmhouse table, looks out on the street through a window, while the rooms, each crowned with molding, lead railroad-style into a backyard strung with fairy lights.

And in that enviable kitchen, two women wearing aprons and heels pass behind each other in a practiced and well-orchestrated dance as impressive as the apartment itself. They pull baking sheets from the oven, pop the freezer open to fetch Ziploc bags of pork and tofu dumplings, stir a Crock-pot filled with meatballs. They are Natalie Hoch, the lucky tenant, and her friend, Casey Barber – the women are founders of Baked & Bottled, a specialty foods company that makes home-made goods and delivers them to your door. Sort of like “home chef meets Fresh Direct,” explains Casey, running a hand through her short hair and leaving a tuft of it standing

on end in a charming way. She looks a little frazzled, but also flushed, pink-cheeked and proud.

This evening has been many months of business and public relations plans – to say nothing of afternoons spent rolling meatballs side by side – in the making. This past spring, the two kvetched over lunch about their unful-filling jobs. They started imagining ways to shape their careers around things they felt fired up about. Like eating. “We knew we wanted to work in food but not on a restaurant line or in a catering business. We wanted to do something on our own terms and our own time,” Natalie and Casey explained in an email. They realized they were dreaming up the same thing.

Aside from sizing up the apartment, the guests at Baked & Bottled’s first-ever tasting

party are talking about the gumption and can-do spirit of starting a fledgling food business in this crappy economy. Both partners have other jobs, but it’s clear their passion for food and the spark of an entrepreneurial idea between friends keeps them jazzed and focused.

The unpretentious, homey spread is the result of two treasure troves of family recipes. A woman from Florida declares the ranch dressing the best she’s ever had, which, Mason-Dixon line or no, is really saying something. A group hovers around the pretzel rolls while a newlywed details her wedding gift haul while forking hand-rolled orecchiette. A woman from Texas (let’s call her me) can’t get enough of the gougeres or chocolate chip cookies flaked with sea salt.

At the end of the night, Casey collapses into a chair, her heels still on, that tuft of hair still awry. Later, she reports the evening was a hit. So much so that two good friends got engaged immediately following a take-home dumpling dinner. The dumplings might not have sealed the deal, but they didn’t hurt.

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Page 12: Brooklyn Bread 11/18/10 Vol. 1 No. 2

Page 12 Thursday, November 25, 2010BROOKLYN BREAD

Eagle Street Rooftop Farm Giving Thanks DinnerSaturday, November 20 at Brooklyn Kitchen

Spencer Adler, Hector Tejada Leonard Lopate, Melanie Baker

Greg Smith, Liz Kowalczyk Stacey Murphy, Natsuko

Dan Crowell, Jenine Osbon

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALLEN YING... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072

Dan D’Ippolito, Heather Dickison

Copies of this magazine get snapped up fast...But do NOT panic,

dear reader. If you

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favorite food and drink

establishment, book

shop or other fine

store, you can read

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Just visit brooklynbreadpress.com

Page 13: Brooklyn Bread 11/18/10 Vol. 1 No. 2

Thursday, November 25, 2010 Page 13BROOKLYN BREAD

Try This At Home!Inspired by Brooklyn’s finest culinary creations, Cathy Erway tries them out in her own kitchen

Pork Schnitzel with German Potato Salad, inspired by Prime Meats

I’M FAR from the first one to say it, but Prime Meats is good. You’ll be hard pressed to find anything that isn’t prepared with finesse and flavor at this crowded Carroll Gardens restau-

rant. The hard part is actually getting a seat there; an hour’s wait for weekend dinners is de rigeuer, and sorry, no reservations. But if you’re more about the food than the fashion-able atmosphere, you can whip up this popu-lar menu item in less time at home.

The restaurant’s theme is German food, and maybe you’ve had something resembling schnitzel here and there due to our (heavily German-influenced) American food tradi-tions. But the warm, vinegary and bacon-flecked German potato salad kicks ass, and that’s something we seem to have muddled up with too much mayonnaise.

I was able to grab Prime Meats’ head chef, Willie Prunty, for cues on how to make the schnitzel – essentially, a breaded cut of bone-less meat. Turns out, he uses what’s available: the breadcrumbs they coat their pork loin cutlets with are made from the day-old kaiser rolls also sold there. You can get these at the Prime Meats Delicatessen around the cor-ner of the restaurant on Luquer Street. Then again, you can also make fresh breadcrumbs with whatever leftover bread you may have on hand, in keeping with the tradition.

Pork loin is usually the most tough, least fatty cut of the pig, but it’s tender and suc-culent when quickly pan-fried this way. The potato salad is a tangy side to serve along with it, and it can be made a day ahead. To get both the pork loin and the bacon for this dish, I hit up the Union Square Greenmarket on Wednesday to visit Tamarack Hollow Farms’ stand, which had both. Flying Pigs Farms is another good source at Union Square and Grand Army Plaza on Saturdays. They’re prime meats, for sure. A few tables down, Berried Treasures’ farmstand had its usual variety of about 18 different types of potatoes, and I picked up some small French fingerlings for the salad. It might be more traditional to go with plain yellow onions in this dish, instead of scallions or leeks, but I went for the greener allium, to give the salad more color. A grainy, spicy mustard adds a little more color and a pleasant kick, along with the vinegar. A dollop of My Friend’s Mustard (Brooklyn-made artisanal mustard with Sixpoint Craft

Ales beer) fit the bill perfectly.If you’ve ever breaded a piece of meat,

whether it be chicken-fried steak or pork chops, this is second nature. Be sure to add a sprinkle of fresh parsley as a finishing touch to the salad and the meat. It’s the only spice the poor Germans have a taste for, it seems.

Pork Schnitzel and German Potato Salad (makes two servings)

2 boneless pork loin cutlets, ½ lb total1 cup fresh breadcrumbs (can be made

with stale bread pulsed in a processor)1 egg1/3 cup water¼ cup all-purpose flour1 lb fingerling potatoes1 large leek, white part and inner pale

green parts only, sliced1/8 lb slab bacon, cut to slivers1/3 cup white vinegar1 tablespoon whole-grain mustard salt and pepperextra-virgin olive oil1 lemon, cut to wedgeschopped fresh parsley, for garnish

Make the potato salad: Boil the potatoes until tender. Slice into 1/8”-1/4” rounds. Heat a large, wide chef’s pan over medium-high heat and cook the bacon for about two min-utes, stirring occasionally. Add the leeks and cook over medium until softened, stirring, about five minutes. Add the potatoes and sea-son well with salt and pepper. Combine the

vinegar and mustard in a bowl and pour into the pan. Remove from heat and toss well. Add a sprinkle of the parsley and let sit, covered, for at least 20 minutes (or up to overnight).

Make the schnitzel: Pat pork cutlets dry with paper towels. Season with salt and pep-per on both sides. Space them apart on a cut-ting board and place a sheet of plastic wrap on top of both. Using a meat tenderizer (or, for lack of one, a cautious hand with a hammer), pat the cutlets gently from the center to the edges until slightly flattened. (Don’t go crazy, they don’t have to be paper-thin.)

Place flour on a flat plate. Beat the egg with the 1/3 cup of water and place in a bowl. Place breadcrumbs on another plate and mix with generous pinches of salt and pepper. Coat each pork cutlet in flour on both sides, and shake off any excess. Coat them in the egg wash. Transfer to the bowl with the bread-crumbs and coat each side evenly. Shake off any excess. Heat a heavy-bottomed stainless steel or cast-iron pan and add 2-3 tablespoons olive oil. Place each cutlet down in the sizzling oil and don’t touch for a minute or two. Check to see if the bottoms are golden brown; if they are, flip over, and reduce heat to medium. Cook on opposite side another 2-3 minutes. Serve alongside the potato salad and garnish with parsley and lemon wedges on each plate.

Cathy Erway is the author of The Art Of Eat-ing In, published by Gotham Books, and of the blog Not Eating Out In New York (www.noteatingou-tinny.com). She hosts the weekly radio show, Let’s Eat In, on Heritage Radio Network.

Prime Meats chef Willie Prunty’s pork schnitzel was the inspiration for this recipe, although we should say that the picture above is not his recipe, just in case he takes exception.

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Second Annual Brooklyn Pie Bake-Off Benefit

Sunday, November 14 at Spacecraft in Williamsburg

Allison Kave (owner), Glenn Robinson (event organizer), Cristina Dodd (judge)

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH

David Ash, Kim Ash (baked a pie), Karen Ash

James Dooley, Naomi Dimon, Ben Speyer

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My Perfect Brooklyn DayBaseball in the park, world-class pastries and a family dinner to remember... some of Saul Bolton’s favorite things

I LOVE Brooklyn with all my heart. I’ve resided here longer, 15 years, than any-where else. My family and I live in the Prospect Lefferts section of Brooklyn right off of Flatbush Avenue between

Ocean Parkway and Parkside – a stone’s throw away from the Brooklyn Botanical. The spirit of Dennis Brown rests at the end of my block. The Dollar Vans patrol Flatbush Avenue from downtown to Kings Plaza more carefully than big brother ever could. Hot nights on my block are punctuated by the smells of jerk chicken and ganja and refreshing tofu ice cream cones from Scoops (cookies and cream for my younger son Theo). But it’s warm even in the winter. Everybody knows everybody.

My perfect Brooklyn day begins with a recall of the sweet dreams from the night before. My wife Lisa is already up and out with Mary Quandt and her boot camp buddies in Prospect Park – from 6am to 8am. They break camp at the Grand Army Plaza Farmers Mar-ket, kibbutzing with the legendary Ray Bradley of Bradley Farms – more kale for that famous kale salad. After that they stroll down to our favorite strong coffee shop, Gorrilla, where they chill and talk. Meanwhile my older son dons the Brooklyn youth baseball club’s bad-ass uniforms. The Brooklyn Bonnies – 48 years of excellence. The Bonnies rule the baseball diamonds of the parade grounds with teams ranging from pee-wees to 19 and 21-year-olds.

That leaves my younger son Theo and myself up to our own devices. Off to DUMBO we go, anticipating the very best pain au choc-olat in NYC at Almondine, where the baker/owner Herve also makes the best baguette in the city in my eyes. Theo and I grab two for dinner. Or lunch. We eat the pastry before we have even left the store and proceed to eat the baguettes as we walk along the waterside park, marveling at the water, skyline and the array of beautiful and interesting people and dogs.

As we skirt the water, heading toward Red Hook, I think of whoopie pies from Baked but we take a hard left on Union, passing Ferdinando’s Focacceria, crossing over the BQE, past Mazzola Bakery, on to Court Street, where we stop at Caputo’s to buy fresh mozza-rella. It’s around 11am and instinctually we pass by Saul to say good day to Lupe – he’s moving in his usual Zen-like fashion, always thoughtful and with purpose. He debriefs Theo. After the debriefing we work our way home, stopping by the Vanderbilt, in Prospect Heights, to check in with the crew. The brunch crowd is hap-

pily buzzing, customers sitting outside along Bergen Street or enjoying the breeze coming through the windows – beignet pastries and Stumptown’s El Injerto coffee. Yum.

Theo and I check out and work our way back home. Lisa is working in the garden, tend-ing her lettuce patch, which we utilize at Saul. I change into my running shorts, Theo rolls out his bike and off we go to Prospect Park – once around for me and twice for him. The park is a blessing – you feel as though you have left the urban cityscape. But watch out for cyclists.

Back at the house we shower, eat a little mozzarella then the three of us put on our walking shoes and start down Flatbush, right on parkside and down to the parade grounds to watch my older son Miles team play the second half of a double-header against their arch rival, Youth Service. The proceedings are always cool – high-quality youth baseball, trash talk, ball hitting bat, the umpire proclaiming a strike, the coaches screaming in protest, the teams chant-ing and singing fight songs that are syncopated

to merengue and bachata. It’s an American baseball experience like no other. Three outs. Game over. We’re outta there! Walking back home we recount the game. On Flatbush we pass Errol’s Bakery, which has the best cheese and beef patties in the city. Truth.

Early evening is here and we decide to walk to our favorite family spot – meaning everybody in our family loves it. We always go early cause that’s the only time you can walk in. Al Di La Trattoria is our favorite restaurant in Brooklyn, and has been for at least 10 years. Not many places can do it like Anna Klinger and her husband, Emiliano Coppa, have year after year. Strong folk. Years come and go, trends start and fade. Al Di La rocks night after night, year after year. Whoa! Great staff, ambience, and great food. On our way home back through the park, the lights reflecting on the pond by the Audubon Center, I think I’m pretty lucky. Back home we relax and get ready for the next day. A perfect day, not unlike reality. One tiny part of Brooklyn, the greatest borough in the world.

Saul Bolton opened Saul Restaurant with his wife Lisa on Smith Street in 1999. It was at the forefront of the Brooklyn food movement, and continues to impress, 11 years later. Photograph by Allen Ying

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A café firmly in the “Great European tradition”, “serving NY’s best coffee” in the “most articulate

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Second Annual Brooklyn Pie Bake-Off BenefitSunday, November 14 at Spacecraft in Williamsburg

Talisa Chang, Veronica Chan Lindsey Machicote, Adam Beck Ashley Muscarelle, Kristin Wilkos

Barbara No, Urena Howard Heather Kumer, Taylor Naughton

Catherine Neckes, Elizabeth Neckes

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072

Anne Hamby, Ania Tomaszewicz

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Thursday, November 25, 2010 Page 17BROOKLYN BREAD

your local destination for all sweet treats

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An Edible History Of BrooklynThe curious story of the Foffe restaurant family... by Joy Holland

NO, THIS ghastly tableau doesn’t depict a horrible road-kill incident but, rather, an invitation to dinner. Decades ahead of the current trends

of locally-sourced food and organic meats, Alfred Foffe was serving wild game in his tony Brooklyn Heights restaurant, Maison Foffe. These suspended carcasses signal to those in the know that Foffe is back from his annual hunting trip with a menu of fresh-from-the-wild animals to serve his customers.

The story of the Foffe family’s establish-ment as Brooklyn restaurant royalty reads like a classic example of the American dream. The widowed head of the family, Maria Foffe, brought her brood of nine fatherless Foffes to the United States from Italy around 1915, first opening a restaurant in Bridgeport, Con-necticut. After that failed, the family moved to Brooklyn in 1929. There they had better luck with the opening of Maison Foffe in 1932, at 155 Montague Street. Alfred ran it with his brother, John, and lived in the apartment above the restaurant with his mother until her death in 1949. The spot started out as a tea room, but expanded to become, said the Brooklyn Daily Eagle, “the equivalent of many of the Eastside Manhattan class spots” by 1948. Other Foffe offspring prospered in the restau-rant business, setting up a satellite kingdom in Bay Ridge with Foffe’s Restaurant and the Vanity Fair nightclub and banquet hall.

The tradition of the annual venison din-ner at Maison Foffe dates back to 1938, when Alfred and John enjoyed an autumnal hunting expedition in Putnam County and brought

back enough meat to serve more than 200 “lovers of game.” Although the feast was sus-pended during World War II, when Alfred enlisted in the army, the Foffes were again bagging winged and hoofed delicacies for their patrons by 1949. Aside from this special feast, the restaurant maintained an adventur-ous menu, including “Scotch grouse, mallard duck, pheasant, frog legs, pompano, Cana-dian brook trout, chateaubriand, and the like. Appetizers include such delicacies as eel in wine, and in the dessert field there are crepes suzette and cherries jubilee.”

That breathless account came from Al Salerno, the Brooklyn Daily Eagle’s “Night Life”

“In a café-crazed town, Iris is one of a kind.” “Best Café” in 2010 “Best of New York” issue, New York magazine

Stumptown coffee ¯ Pastries, cookies and biscuits, all baked in-houseAll-day breakfast classics ¯ Sandwiches ¯ Salads

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columnist and a personal friend and ardent fan of the Foffe family. Throughout the 1940s and 1950s, Salerno devoted countless lines of copy to praising the various Foffe enterprises. Salerno accompanied Alfred on one of his hunting trips, lamenting in one column that “for a few days, I gave up night life for wild life.”

Sadly – or happily, depending on your point of view – Maison Foffe no longer graces Montague Street with the fresh corpses of New York’s bestiary. Alfred Foffe died in 1984 and the restaurant closed in the years follow-ing. The spot is now occupied by a hair salon.

An Edible History of Brooklyn is published in partnership with Brooklyn Public Library.

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Second Annual Brooklyn Pie Bake-Off Benefit

Sunday, November 14 at Spacecraft in Williamsburg

Anna Hui, Adam Santo Will True, Charlie Mirisola

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH

Kush Goojha, Kiran Goojha Kevin Sauer, Canoace Maoonna

Alison Govelitz, Alex Hilhorst Joe Chapman, Mike Quinn

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Thursday, November 25, 2010 Page 21BROOKLYN BREAD

This must be where pies gowhen

they die

Four & Twenty Blackbirds

Four & Twenty Blackbirds439 3rd Avenue at 8th StreetGowanus, Brooklynwww.birdsblack.com

Closed MondaysTuesday to Friday: 8am–7pmSaturday: 9am–7pmSunday: 10am–6pm

Pie by the slice in the shop, whole pies are made to order. Please call to order:tel 718.499.2917

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Second Annual Brooklyn Pie Bake-Off BenefitSunday, November 14 at Spacecraft in Williamsburg

Tamar Barshad, Amos Barshad, Bill Levy Haeth Kim, Hae-Joon Kim, Jason Sudik Laura Leebove, Jime Kwale

Tim Fealey, Amy Malbouf, Genevieve Spies Jesse Davidson, Annie Wan, Harold Jennings Nora Woodin, Fiona Brown, Sakura Yagi

Michelle Loayza, Dave P., Michelle Chin, Brian Chin Drew Moore, Anna Smith, Risa Pearl Bonnie Lee, Laura Kounine

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072

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BROOKLYN BREADThursday, November 25, 2010 Page 23

From Soil To PlateThe weekly green report by Sara Franklin

NORTHERNERS have long had an aversion to collard greens. But if there’s one thing for which I give thanks to the revived interest in local

food, it’s the growing acceptance of collards on Yankee tables. I’ve been on a southern food kick since returning from New Orleans, where hearty greens are everywhere. But even back home, the elephant ear-esque greens are one of my favorite late season crops, made sweeter by northern frost and even light snow. Their versatility ranges tremendously; whether fried in strips coated with a gleam of oil and toasted garlic, or stewed into sub-mission in soups, cooked into egg dishes or served in the southern New Year’s Day classic, Hoppin’ John, collards can wheedle their way into most any meal year-round.

Down in Bensonhurt, at the Growing Leaders Garden at the Expeditionary Learn-ing School for Community Leaders, the col-lards live in the campus courtyard. Program coordinator Sarah Welch and Americorps vol-unteer Sonia Alexander said, “Our last crop of

the season is our collard greens. We love them because they are hearty enough to bear the colder weather and we can still use them for our cooking classes. If you want to harvest and eat your collards in the late fall you should plant them mid summer, in pretty deep soil – their roots can grow two feet down!

“When you are first planting sprinkle the seeds in rows about three feet apart and cover them with just half an inch of soil Eventually the plants should be thinned to be about 18 inches apart.” You can also transplant starts at 12-18’ apart. “Harvest the larger, outer leaves to allow the plant to continue to produce.”

The program staff added, “Our amazing teachers are incorporating the gardening pro-gram into all of the other class subjects. We just secured another space to garden at our school and are excited to keep growing!”

Cut into strips and blanched for 1-3 min-utes, then wrung free of most of their water, collards can be placed in freezer bags in por-tion sizes and frozen for up to a year. Add directly to soups and stews, or defrost for a day in the fridge and then use as you would fresh.

Citrus Collards with Raisin Redux, adapted from former Brooklynite Bryant Terry’s

The Vegan Soul Kitchen2 large bunches collards, ribs removed,

cut into thin strips1 T extra virgin olive oil2 cloves garlic, minced2/3 cup raisins1/3 cup fresh orange juiceIn a large pot, boil water, adding salt

at the rolling boil. Add collards and cook, uncovered, for 8-10 minutes. Have a bowl of ice water ready to go. After cooked, remove collards from hot water and plunge into ice water to stop cooking. Drain and press gently against a colander to remove excess water.

In sauté pan, combine oil and garlic and cook on medium heat. Sauté one minute, then add collards, raisins, and ½ tsp salt. Sauté for three minutes, stirring regularly.

Add orange juice and cook for another 15 seconds, just to heat juice through. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve imme-diately!

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Page 24 Thursday, November 25, 2010BROOKLYN BREAD

Second Annual Brooklyn Pie Bake-Off Benefit

Sunday, November 14 at Spacecraft in Williamsburg

Ben Donsky, Heather Gaw, Rebecca Dash Donsky

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH

Arielle Rubin, Juliette Loughlin, Liz Drummey 0080

Wyatt Accardi, Anthony Accardi, Quin Accardi

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Thursday, November 25, 2010 Page 25BROOKLYN BREAD

A Saturday Afternoon At Brooklyn FleaNovember 13 in Fort Greene

Catherine Marotta, Ryan Hall Mark Sopchak, from Whimsy & Spice

Mikala Kuchera, Matt Mondanile Siblings David Byrd and Christi Byrd

Bread from Scratch Bread

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072

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A Saturday Afternoon At Brooklyn FleaNovember 13 in Fort Greene

Larrk Brinkman, Angie Spencer

Jill Grinberg, Marty Beller

Chelsea Carter, Michelle Kmoo

Barbro Arhem, Katarina Arhem

Umut Yamau, visiting from London

Katy Hogben, Mark Hogben

Anett Gabriel, Gabriela de la Vega

Billy Morrissette, Marcus Braham

Ari Tiziani, Max Read

Sofia Degli Alessandri, Ian Hultquist

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072

Molly McIntyre, Brian DaRosia

John Murphy, Peg Horan

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BROOKLYN BREADThursday, November 25, 2010 Page 27

A Saturday AfternoonAt Brooklyn Flea

November 13 in Fort Greene

John, Sally, Merry

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH

Andrew Sell, from Nunu Chocolates

Peter Naddeo, Chole Le’Paule, from Brooklyn Brew Shop

atlantic 28,232ft

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Kings County General Store At SouthpawSunday, November 14 on Fifth Avenue, Park Slope

Carolyn Reichuber, Courtney Reichuber

Andrea Beaulieu, Dina Jacob

Melinda Diorio, Donleo Tagatac

Hinore Lansen, Peter Tubin

Rebecca Jablonsky, Matt Karrin

Oliver Coig, Luis Coig

Montana Olean, Annie Olean

Vincent Meillet, Carrie Overture-Meillet

Joyce & Al Ghiroli

Alexander Norbom, Caitlin Hinz

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072

Melissa Kelly of Be In The Moment

Jennifer Piette, owner of McBitterson’s

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BROOKLYN BREADThursday, November 25, 2010 Page 29

Kings County General Store At Southpaw

Sunday, November 14 at 125 Fifth Avenue, Park Slope

Thomas Brown

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH

Adam Spector, Michelle Otis (Mifflin Jewlry & Kings County GS), Eric Bernstein

Mikey Palms (bar owner), Stacy Leatherland (runs Kings County), Doug DeFalco

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BROOKLYN BREADThursday, November 25, 2010 Page 31

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Kings County General Store At SouthpawSunday, November 14 on Fifth Avenue, Park Slope

Diane Ferrera, Bam Romero of Bam’s Jerky Jennifer Sonnenford of McBitterson’s

Amanda Redman of Eponymy Boutique Patrick Linden, Kaye Matheny

Laura Koch, Kristin Koch

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072

Andrea Cobb of Natural Abstract

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Page 32 Thursday, November 25, 2010BROOKLYN BREAD

THE BIG PICTURESome of the entries at the Second Annual Brooklyn Pie Bake-Off Benefit on Sunday, November 14 at Spacecraft in Williamsburg. More photos on pages 14-22.Photograph by John Suscovich

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Kings County General Store At SouthpawSunday, November 14 on Fifth Avenue, Park Slope

Emily Beebe, Jesse Saffner of Little Buddy Biscuit Co. Blake Day, Sarah Farid of Luxxor Vintage Jill Fagin, Jillian Roche of Jillery by Jill Fagin Inc.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN SUSCOVICH... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072

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BROOKLYN BREADThursday, November 25, 2010 Page 35

SkateboardsFlowers

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Confessions Of A WaitressLife from the other side of the table, by Stella Dixon

MY great-aunt Helen is ninety years old. She’s a remarkable lady who is, despite two plastic hips and a metal knee, still living

alone in her meticulously-kept rancher. When I visit, she takes me to her favorite caribou-themed restaurant. She says the giant talking moose heads on the wall remind her of her travels out west.

Last time I visited, I brought John, a boy I’d recently started dating. Aunt Helen told us (or, rather, yelled to us) that she was a virgin until she got married at forty-three years of age. Speaking loudly enough for the patrons on the next bearskin rug over to hear, she reached across the table and said, “Stella, don’t ever lose your virginity.” John was finding all of this very amusing – until Aunt Helen started refer-ring to him as my “hubby,” and asking when we were planning on getting hitched.

Good sport that he is, when it came time to pay, John insisted on picking up the check. Suddenly, the room got very quiet. Even the talking moose, who’d been describing his

MBA (Masters of Bison Administration), went silent. I’d forgotten to warn John that you never, under any circumstances, offer to pay for Aunt Helen’s meal; it is an insult of buffalo-sized proportion. I thought poor Aunt Helen might have an aneurism right there, under her tusk and antler-fashioned coat-rack.

For a while, I thought this insistence on picking up the check was something exclusive to elderly ladies and nervous gentlemen trying to impress a date. Then I started waiting tables. I’ve had people track me down inside the walk-in refrigerator of a restaurant’s kitchen, wav-ing a credit card in the air as though it were a

winning lottery ticket. I’ve had men sneak money into my apron as I’m taking an order at somebody else’s table. I’ve seen fights so hos-tile break out in the center of a crowded dining room, I’ve scurried out of the way.

If no one has managed to sneak me pay-ment over the course of a dinner, I delegate the task of dropping off a bill to one of several gullible bus boys. I watch as he unknowingly extends his arm, check in hand, over the table. Inevitably, he’s swooped upon like an injured lion cub amongst hyenas. It’s survival of the fittest in the restaurant, and the fastest guest is the one who secures the bill. My frightened bus boy slinks away, hurt that I could have fed him to the wolves, and helplessly shrugging his shoulders at the angry customers who just weren’t quick enough.

As someone who works in the restaurant jungle, I know that sometimes the animals aren’t only on our plates or, for that mat-ter, talking to us from a mounted position on the wall. Sometimes, the animals are eating and drinking amongst us, just waiting for an opportunity to pounce.

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Page 36: Brooklyn Bread 11/18/10 Vol. 1 No. 2

Page 36 Thursday, November 25, 2010BROOKLYN BREAD

Ericka Martins, Colombe Jacobsen

Sam Landenwitsch, Katie Joiner, Amy Parker, Carli Smythe

Sean-Michael Fleming, James Paladino

First Annual Hattie Carthan Market Farmy Folks Soirée Saturday, November 13 at the Hattie Carthan Garden in Bed-Stuy

Roxanne, Rasheed Hislop

Debra, Bren and Jessie Mulligan

Natalie A. Soleil, Darnella Atkins

PHOTOGRAPHS BY LAWRENCE SUMULONG... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072

Page 37: Brooklyn Bread 11/18/10 Vol. 1 No. 2

Thursday, November 25, 2010 Page 37BROOKLYN BREAD

BY DAY it’s a flower shop, by night it’s a beautifully-lit whisky and bourbon bar. Whisky and flow-ers. That has to be the ultimate yin-yang. Add to that a lush gar-

den on the outside, and a basement that often hosts live music and you have an altogether pleasing sensory experience. We chatted with bartender Andy Zimmerman to learn a little more.

What’s your home town? Kingston, New York, and before I moved to Brooklyn I was living in New Paltz.

How old are you and how long have you been bartending at Sycamore? I’m 28 and I’ve been working at Sycamore for a little over two years, since they opened in September of 2008. I’m also studying for a masters in social work at NYU.

Where were you working before that? I was bartending at the Farm on Adderley, right on the same block.

What’s the clientele like a Sycamore? A lot of regulars? And when does the place start filling up? We definitely get a lot of regu-lars. It’s a pretty diverse neighborhood, so we have customers of all ages – a lot of musi-cians, a lot of freelancer types. Happy hour runs from 4pm to 8pm, and the crowd’s a little different then, more regulars, and you know, maybe generally a little bit of an older crowd and 9-to-5 daytimes workers. It usually gets pretty busy around 7pm.

What drinks are ordered the most often? Well we’re a whiskey bar so we make a lot of Old Fashioneds and Manhattans, and, of course, lots of whiskey and beer.

How did the whole flower shop and bar conglomeration come about? I don’t know exactly, the owners of the Farm on Adderley came up with the idea, I think Allison (Gary’s wife) may have been instrumental in that.

Does your drink list reflect the flower shop? Are there cocktails with rosewater, for example? We tried a cocktail menu for a while and sort of did flower-themed drinks, but we often get really busy so it started to be more trouble than it was worth. Along that line we do a beer and bouquet for $10, so we incorpo-rate flowers like that instead of something too fancy.

Any flowery perks you get to enjoy as an employee there? We get half-off at the flower shop, and I take advantage of that. They also sell artisanal soaps and stuff like that which make the discount definitely worthwhile.

Bartender Of The WeekAndy Zimmerman from Sycamore in Ditmas Park

What’s your favorite drink and favorite place to drink in Brooklyn? We like to stay local so we hang out a lot at the Double Wind-sor. It just opened, and one of the bartend-ers here also works there. We usually order a lot of beer. I like Negronis and I’m really into Campari lately. There’s also the Clover Club – that’s right on Smith Street. It’s kind of like a speakeasy-type place, the bartenders have vests on and they’ve got old-school drinks with egg whites, stuff like that.

Where do you like to eat in the neighbor-hood? What do you usually order? The Farm on Adderley is our sister restaurant and they have a fantastic menu. There’s also Purple Yam, which is a Filipino restaurant that’s really unique. They have a great goat curry

I saw that you had John Lennon’s pianist stopping by on November 22. Is there usually a lot of live entertainment at the bar? Any regular events readers should know about? We have a music thing here in the basement, we have comedy shows, and we’re hosting a

short film screening tonight. We usually have two or three music events every week with a combination of local and out-of-town artists. Certain events are monthly (like the comedy show) and we just started this thing called Monday Night Vinyl Club on the first Monday of every month. We just put in turntables, so people can come in with a bunch of records and guest DJ. They do little sets of chill Mon-day music – Oldies, Motown, and ’60s and ’70s stuff. It’s very relaxed and anyone can get up and give it a spin.

Are there any drinks you hate making? There’s always mojitos in the summer.

What about now that the weather is get-ting cooler? Well, Hot Toddys have come up pretty often lately. I respect the Hot Toddy, so I don’t get too annoyed, but hating drinks is a balance of how annoying they are to make and whether or not you respect the use of that drink.

Sycamore, 1118 Cortelyou Road, Brooklyn, 347-240-5850, sycamorebrooklyn.com.

Got bourbon. Andy Zimmerman mans the bar at Sycamore in Ditmas Park, which is a flower shop by day and one of Brooklyn’s best-loved drinking spots by night. Photograph by Allen Ying

Page 38: Brooklyn Bread 11/18/10 Vol. 1 No. 2

Page 38 Thursday, November 25, 2010BROOKLYN BREAD

First Annual Hattie Carthan Market Farmy Folks Soirée Saturday, November 13 at the Hattie Carthan Garden in Bed-Stuy

Yonette Fleming, Professor Louie Tom and Bernadette T.

Kim Wlliams Aaron M., Frances F.

Maureen O’Brien, Hannah Riseley-White

PHOTOGRAPHS BY LAWRENCE SUMULONG... TO ORDER COPIES, PLEASE CALL (917) 740-1072

Victor Malaret, Annie Humes

Dog Habitat Rescue at Unleash: Brooklyn216 Franklin Street 718.395.2298 [email protected]

«Dog Habitat Rescue, founded

in 2009, is the newest member of

the Mayor’s Alliance for

NYC’s Animals.

«Working with 150 Alliance

Participating Organizations to

increase adoptions from Animal

Care and Control shelters and

transform New York City into a

no-kill community by 2015.

Page 39: Brooklyn Bread 11/18/10 Vol. 1 No. 2

Thursday, November 25, 2010 Page 39BROOKLYN BREAD

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Page 40: Brooklyn Bread 11/18/10 Vol. 1 No. 2

Limited Production

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