buddy andrea enjoy the ride, and the view, on a coastal ...€¦ · writer judi, right, and buddy...

Writer Judi, right, andbuddy Andrea enjoythe ride, and theview, on a coastalroad east of Nerja onthe Costa del Sol.

workH-CostaDelSol-2xp6-jprb-sa-rb-jp:workH-Alm 21/3/08 15:31 Page 2

what we want from a holidaychanges with age. We’re nolonger in the flush of youth,when we danced the night awayin Greek island discos andsunbathed all day, but more inthe hot flush of the menopause.So we, that is me and mytravelling buddy Andrea, askedourselves: “What next?”

As lifelong friends, divorcedand widowed respectively, we’dshared many holidays andrelocated some time ago tobeautiful inland Andalusia. Witha weekend to spare we wanted torevisit the Costa del Sol.

We didn’t fancy the golfcourses, beauty salons and spas orwater sports, though there areample opportunities for thosethat do, nor a sunloungerbewailing our middle age spread.Culture? There’s plenty here butwe’d been ‘cultured out’ earlier inItaly. So the idea of a road tripwas born.

The old 600-mile long N-340was once Spain’s main coastalhighway. It ran from Cádiz in thewest right along the south coastand then up the entire easternedge of Spain. Being single laneit was notoriously Europe’s mostdangerous road before EU moneyand the multi-lane A-7 autopistaprovided an alternative. The N-340 is still there to be travelled,though bypassed in places.

Our route, we decided, wouldstart west of Málaga at flashyPuerto Banús and finish some 60miles east at tranquil, hill-perchedSalobreña. Two gals – or feisty 50-somethings – hitting the roaddemanded a sporty open-top car.Oh yes, roof down, wearing bigsunnies... hang on, haven’t weseen that movie, the 1991 hitThelma & Louise? Sit back,buckle up and enjoy the ride!

Holiday May 2008 l 13


14 l Holiday May 2008

“The lush pine trees create a naturalcanopy to escape the sun, but we’rehappy to flop down on the semi-wilddunes and stretch out while the calories

settle nicely around the waistline”BIG BUCKS PIZZAZZIt’s Saturday and almost 10am as we swing off the A-7and into Puerto Banús, playground of the seriously richand famous. Celebrity party-goers will be sleeping itoff, having left chic nightclubs such as Olivia Valere inMarbella and Puerto Banús’ La Comedia in the earlyhours. It’s high class and high price.

The amazing clarity of the light reveals NorthAfrica and the Rock of Gibraltar. As the cafés stir and simmer into action, the port’s supermodels –multi-million pound yachts gleaming like a string ofbuffed pearls – scream to be ogled at.

This area has had a constant stream of celebrityresidents and visitors since the 1950s. Film actressDeborah Kerr was among the first wave and the creamof Hollywood duly followed.

Today it’s young royals, footballers, models and soapstars living la vida loca on the coast, though you mightalso catch sight of Hollywood A-lister AntonioBanderas who was born in Málaga. He and his actresswife Melanie Griffith own a magnificent beachfrontvilla on the Marbella coast.

Puerto Banús attracts two sorts of folk – the mega-rich and those of us who come to gaze at expensivedesigner clothes shops, Jimmy Choo shoes, top of therange cars and those jaw-droppingly luxurious yachts.

We walk the jetty, blinking in the sunlight as well-fed stray cats scatter, and can’t believe our luck aswe are invited to board a beauty – one of four yachtsbelonging to a sheikh.

Taking up the invitation to step aboard, we glimpsewhat it’s really like to live in total luxury as we ‘ooh’and ‘aah’ at the no-expense-spared interior with itsgold-thread curtains, plush oriental carpets andsumptuous comfort.

Back on dry land it’s time for a pricey port-sidecoffee and then the bustle and fun of Puerto Banús’sprawling weekly market, packed with arts, crafts,souvenirs and even antiques.

There are bargains to be haggled over but I snap upa cheap souvenir fan (the perfect cooling accessory forwomen of a certain age). It costs little but there areexquisitely painted ones for considerably more.

THE SECRET’S OUTRejoining the now busy A-7, we know exactlywhere to have lunch. It’s an 11-mile drive along theribbon of exclusive Marbella beaches to Elviria andthe Beach House. It’s tucked away but there aresigns for the sharp-eyed.

Set in a sheltered cove, the contemporary designrestaurant spills out on to the broad sandy beach.Under head chef Martin Underwood theinternational menu is unpretentious and creative,and with this location what’s not to love?

It’s been described as “fine dining on the beach”,and we can’t argue as we sip freshly pulpedstrawberry drinks under a palm tree and eatsensational food. Our meal included smokedhaddock tartlet with Welsh rarebit topping, andlamb shank with hoisin glaze, garlic mash and



seasonal vegetables. When the bill arrives wedon’t reel from shock as it is good value.

The restaurant, in its 7th year, is run byEnglish couple Lucy Godfrey and Guy McCrow,and has been a well-kept secret. But not anymore! Be sure to reserve and ask for a table underthe palms.

BEACH YOURSELFSome guide books say the charms of the Costa delSol have been sunk under cement. Not so! As wepull into picturesque Cabopino – often bypassed –we can drive and park alongside the beach,sheltered by the protected Artola dunes and pinetree woodland.

There’s a cosy-feel marina and three definablebeach areas. The first is family-friendly with agood choice of restaurants, including the ever-popular Andy’s chiringuito (beach bar). Pasthere it’s the all-over-tan naturist domain, andbeyond that the beach is popular with gay people.

Time to enjoy the view, and by that I mean thespiny backdrop of mountains, the sea and unspoiltbeach and vegetation. The lush pine trees create anatural canopy to escape the sun, but we’re happy toflop down on the semi-wild dunes and stretch outwhile the calories settle nicely around the waistline.

MY KINDA TOWNIt’s 4pm but the sun’s still hot as we drive for 19miles, first along the A-7, then on the old coasthighway to the party-town of Torremolinos. Whilesummer visitors here paint the town red theauthorities have gone green, planting treesalongside other improvements to chip away at itspackage holiday boom hangover. We point ourstylish wheels toward one of Torrie’s two mainbeaches at La Carihuela.

There’s full-on gaiety, loud voices and easylaughter as we sashay down the pedestrian prom ofthis old fishing village. Colourful fishing boats dotthe sands, and the street noise is deafening.

Hordes of Spanish families arrive at weekendspacking the superb seafood restaurants that servepaella and ‘pescaito frito’ (fried fish). Children areroller-skating, cycling and walking dogs.

Striding out like our celluloid sisters Thelmaand Louise, our eyes rove around for a cute BradPitt cowboy but we have to settle for a sexy suedecowboy hat, a steal for €6!

La Carihuela was once Frank Sinatra’s ‘kindatown’ – along with Ava Gardner, Orson Welles,novelists, poets and artists including Dali andPicasso. However, a paparazzi sting soured it forOl’ Blue Eyes. But it’s still ours.

Pictured opposite page, from top:Looking out along the coast fromthe Beach House restaurant inElviria; the Beach House.This page, top to bottom:Cabopino Marina near Elviria;enjoying lunch at the BeachHouse; a fishing boat at Playa LaCarihuela in Torremolinos.


16 l Holiday May 2008

IN THE MOOD FOR MÁLAGAWe have a slight bout of hysteria at 6.30pm as weattempt to follow Málaga ‘centro’ signs into the heart ofthe province’s capital. A once overlooked gem, the cityis busily asserting itself with spruced up monumentalbuildings, a huge restoration programme of its oldquarter and the construction of a Metro system – hencethe traffic confusion.

Málaga’s now a vibrant, happening place that’sheavily promoting its most famous son, Pablo Picasso. Itholds a fond place in the childhood holiday memoriesof another Spanish icon, the flamenco dancer JoaquímCortés. Málaga is at once both very traditional andnewly modern.

Málagueños go out late, so we’ve time to rest beforethe juerga (a good night out). When we do, it’s off toatmospheric bar El Pimpi on Calle Granada for sweetMálaga wine. It’s a warren of rooms adorned with giantposters of the summer fair, the Feria de Málaga. Ours islined with wine barrels signed by mayors andluminaries, including fashion designer Paloma Picassoand the revered matador El Cordobes.

We take a pre-dinner Cava cocktail in the elegantsalon Puerta Oscura at Calle Molino Lario 5, with itschandeliers and classical music, just a stone’s throwfrom the cathedral, La Manquita.

Sadly, flamboyant Spanish comedian Angel Garó nolonger owns the restaurant where our table is bookedfor 10pm, recently renamed Café de Flores (Madre deDios 29). So no blue cabbage on the menu! Our food isinteresting but not spectacular, unlike the ornate giltand frescoed décor of this restored 19th-centurybuilding. The first-floor window frames a view of thecity’s Cervantes Theatre.

At 1am we consider attempting salsa dancing andseveral clubs have a novice hour. Middle-agedMálagueños are still heading out on to the streets butour tired feet will only move in the direction of ourbeds.

NERJA AND A NEW DAYAfter breakfast we choose the N-340 over the faster A-7 to Nerja. The faded road signs remind us this wasonce a main artery, and later we actually see Barcelonasignposted even though it must be some 600 miles away.

After 43 miles we reach our destination, anattractive town with boutique shops selling lovelyindividual products. But Nerja’s main claim to fame isits Balcón de Europa, jutting out over the sea and beachwith wonderful views across the water to mountainsand cliffs.

Back on the road, there are incredible vistas as wewind around the cliffs, and I remind Andrea to keepeyes ahead if we don’t want to do a Thelma & Louiseending right there and then...

Pictured clockwisefrom top left: Adramatic view from the coastal road nearNerja; traditional whitewashed house on the Costa del Sol;colourful flowerpots in Salobreña; a beach-side location at Nerja.



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Avis car hire on the Costadel Sol from £138 per week

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AND SO TO SALOBREÑAThere’s a warm breeze as we eat up the 19 miles toSalobreña, singing to Mink DeVille’s Spanish Strolland wowed by the coastline and the beauty of a sereneturquoise sea turned silver by the sun’s rays.

On advice, we abandon the car at the foot of theold town, a jumble of white houses on a steep hill thatwas once an island, and feel no need for the services ofa map.

Exploring the maze of little streets and Paseo de lasFlores which are filled with colourful window boxesand potted plants, we eventually reach, a littlebreathlessly (bring your flat shoes girls), the church. Itwas the site of a mosque during the Arab conquests andrecaptured in 1489. Further up is an Arab fortress withan exotic history, once a residence for Granadanmonarchs and a prison for dethroned sultans, and nowa public museum.

An 89-year-old local widow, enjoying the viewacross crop fields to the sea and sweet birdsong fromher neighbours’ houses, talks to us of youth lost. Shechuckles, pointing out her wrinkles and pulling at hersagging eyelids or ‘cortinas’ (curtains) as she callsthem. In Marbella, many seek the answer to aging incosmetic surgery at a cost that can literally wipe thesmile off your face. Here, it’s a different world.

We’ve travelled more than 100 miles along theCosta del Sol and found many pleasures and contrastsalong the way. There’s only one problem now though.Neither of us can remember where we parked the car. ■

Our intrepidtravellers take abreak to enjoy thesunshine on theroad east of Nerja.

Our thanks to Aviscar hire for helpingwith this feature.


buddy andrea enjoy the ride, and the view, on a coastal ...€¦ · writer judi, right, and buddy...

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