building a low-cost sturdy work bench from 2x4's and osb

Detailed Article:

A Cheap And Sturdy Work BenchFor About $20

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In This Article:

The MaterialsCutting The OSBCutting The LegsAssembling The Side FramesAssembling The End RailsAssembling The Top and ShelfTools and Materials

Related Articles:

Index of Workshop ArticlesBuilding A Shelf UnitInstalling Electrical Outlets on a WorkBenchBuilding A 3' x 7' Outdoor Workbench

Skill Level: 2 (Basic) Time Taken: About 2 Hours

By Bruce W. Maki, Editor

The Materials:

The materials used for this project:

Four 8' 2x4'sOne partial 2x4, about 6' long.Two large pieces of OSB (Oriented Strand Board). I usedscraps recovered from job sites. One piece was 7/16" thick,and one just happened to be 5/8" thick.3" Deck Screws1-5/8" Deck Screws

Note on OSB Thickness: I have made several work benches like this one. Most haveused 7/16" thick OSB for the top and bottom shelves. Heavier OSB won't hurt, of course,but just costs more with questionable benefit.

I would never use 1/4" OSB for a work bench. It just is not strong enough, and is notmuch cheaper than 7/16" OSB.

Cutting The OSB:

The first thing I did was to lay some 2x4's across two saw horses andplace the OSB on top.

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Building A Low-Cost Sturdy Work Bench From 2x4's And OSB http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/workshop/bench/belo...

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I often use a 4' level for drawing lines. This method is easier andmore precise than using a chalk line.

The level used here is a product called a "Tri-Level" from Sears, which cost about $15.One edge is triangular-shaped and has a ruler scale.

I cut the OSB to the desired width. In this case, the smallest ofthe two scraps of OSB was about 26" x 48", so my goal was tomake two pieces the same size.

If I was using a new, full sheet of OSB, (that is, if I ran out ofplywood scraps), I would cut two 24" x 48" pieces from the 4'x 8' panel, leaving enough for another work bench. Manystores sell 4' x 4' panels and 2' x 4' panels.

Cutting The 2x4's:

I used a power miter saw to cut the 2x4's, because it is faster,easier, and safer than using a circular saw. This tool is the best$150 I have ever spent.

For laying out the cuts I used a tape measure, a red pen and a"speed square".

Cutting The Legs:

I marked an 8' 2x4 at exactly 32" and 64". This board will giveme 3 legs, each just under 32".

Only for the legs: I align the cut so the middle of the bladewas on the line. (Normally I align the mark with one side of theblade.)

Why? Because 8' 2x4's are normally exactly 96" long. (10', 12' etc. lumber is usually


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about 1 inch longer than specified.) Since the saw blade is about 3/32" thick, I will lose asignificant amount of material due to the blade thickness. I don't care if the table legsare not exactly 32" long, but I do care if they are not all the same length.

Maybe using one 10 foot long 2x4, cut into four legs exactly 30" long, would be thesmartest choice.

With the miter saw, cutting takes only a few minutes.

The lumber, after the cutting was done:

The side "stretchers", 45" long. (3" less than the overalllength.)

1.

The legs, about 32" long.2.The end stretchers, 26" long.3.

The small pile on theleft is the waste. Most of

this will eventually bere-used.

Assembling The Side Frames:

The overall dimensions of the frame:

I marked the legs 6" above the floor.

The sides are laid on top of the legs,forming a rectangle. The lower sidestretcher is aligned with the red linementioned above.


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I arranged the pieces so the cornerswere close to being square.

Then I drilled one hole at each corner.

I drove one 3" deck screw into each corner.

I checked the diagonal measurements.

They were within 1/8". Close, but notgood enough for me.

So I tapped the frame lightly, to shift ita little. I held the lower part down withmy foot.

The squared-up side frame.

Then I drove in three more screws foreach joint.

Due to poor planning, I almost ran outof 3" screws, so I used some 2-1/2"Ardox (spiral) nails.

Assembling The Ends:


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After the side frames were completed, Iturned them over and stood an end stretcherupright, and then fastened it with deckscrews. I used the Speed Square to maintaina right angle.

The side with two end stretchers attached.The other side looked exactly the same.

Assembling The Two Halves:

I turned each half upside-down and placedthem together.

I used a Quick-Grip clamp to hold thelumber while driving the deck screws.

Then I flipped the unit over andconnected the top components.

The completed frame.

Details: Note how the corners are joined.This type of over-lapping 2x4 joint is quitestrong. Pre-drilling the holes helps preventsplitting of the wood, which is common whennailed or screwed near the end.

Installing The Shelves:

I placed the top piece of OSB on theframe and attached it with 1-5/8" deckscrews. I spaced the screws about 8"apart.

An aerial view.


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The work bench with the top shelf attached.

The bottom shelf required a notch at each corner, to fit around thelegs.

The notches are a little bigger than 3" x 5".

Note the orientation of the notches: The 5"dimension is along the long side of the panel.

I tilted the OSB panel to get it in place.Fortunately it fit properly on the first try. In thepast I have had to cut the notches slightly largerbecause the shelf would not fit the first time.Cutting them 1/8" to 1/4" bigger seems to be afair compromise.

The bottom shelf was also attached with 1-5/8" deck screws.

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The completed work bench.

This is the 8th work bench I have built using this design. Every one has been a differentsize, because each was made using materials on hand. Typically the dimensions of theplywood shelves dictates the work bench size.


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One has been narrow, only 18" wideOne has been quite long, 68" x 24", to support a wood lathe that weighs 150 pounds.This bench has extra stretchers between the side rails.Several have been made entirely of recycled lumber.One bench used recycled 2x4's for the top, instead of plywood or OSB.I routinely stand on these workbenches to reach lumber stored overhead. I find thedesign to be the sturdiest I have seen, for the cost and level of simplicity.I believe this structure is adequate for standing on because: 1.) The weight isdistributed on the equivalent of four studs, and 2.) 7/16" OSB is acceptable for roofsheathing when the trusses are spaced 24" on center. The surface is a little springy, butit will certainly hold the weight of a typical person.On one of these benches I installed two electrical outlets. View that article.

Tools Used:

Circular SawCordless Drill/DriverHammer, Tape Measure4' Level or Chalk LineJig Saw (or Hand Saw)Power Miter Saw (optional)

Materials Used:

Lumber, 2x4x8', (Qty: 5)OSB, About ½ SheetDeck Screws, 3", 1-5/8"

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Copyright © 1999, 2005 HammerZone.com

Written December 3, 1999Revised January 4, 2005

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building a low-cost sturdy work bench from 2x4's and osb

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