bulgaria with birdquest, may 2010 - manchester birding
TRANSCRIPT
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BULGARIAWITHBIRDQUEST,MAY2010
byTimWilcox
AftertheanxiouswaitwithskiesemptiedbythevolcanoandpotentiallyfurtherbytheBAstriketheBirdquestgroupof13miraculouslygotourplanefromHeathrowtoSofiaonTuesday18Mayarrivingontimeforanaction-packedandabsolutelysuperb10daysbirdingaroundBulgariawithoursuperbandhumorousguides,DerekScottfromBirdquestandexpertlocalguide,LyubomirProfirov(Lyubo)andourgenialcoachdriver,Evghani.WeimmediatelyheadedstraightoutfromtheairportpastPlovdivandAsenovgradondowntotheout-of-seasonskiresortofPomporovaintheRhodopeMountainssoonleavingbehindthelasttraceofdecentroad!Thefirstbirdingwasatamotorwaypitstopforthealwaysexcellentcoffee.Iaddedmyfirstof60liferswithasingingBlack-HeadedBuntinginscrubbelowthepetrolstationandaRed-RumpedSwallow.ApartyofBee-Eatersflewlowoverinthestrongwind.CornBuntingssangtooandthiswastobeaconstantandmuchwelcomesoundtracktoourtripalongwiththeclamourofGreatReedWarblers,NightingaleswhichkeptupallnightintheArdaRivervalleyandabundantCuckoos.
Black-HeadedBuntingcourtesyRussTofts
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Bee-EatercourtesyandRed-backedShrikecourtesyofRussTofts
SpottedNutcrackerthefirst‘lifer-before-breakfast’
Thefirstfullday’sbirdingstartedwithawalkinthespruceforestjustbehindthehotelandwewerenotdisappointedwithCrestedTit,Firecrest,Red-BackedShrikeandoneofmytargetbirdsforthetrip,SpottedNutcrackerperchedupsuperblyinatallsprucerightaboveourparkedcoachandallowingthishastyhand-helddigiscoperecord.AfterthatbrilliantstarttherewashardlyadaywhenIdidn’taddalifertothelistbeforetheinevitablebreakfastfareofcoldmeats,boiledeggandcheeseandloadsofcoffee.Theonlyhoped-forbirdwhichgotawaythatmorningwasaBlackWoodpeckersomewherenearbybutitfailedtorespondtotaping(Derek’smachine!)andwedidn’tgetanothertillthelastdaywhichalsofailedtoshow.Alwaysgoodtoleaveamajortargetbirdinstoreastheobjectofafuturetrip.AbonuswashadintheshapeofasuperbalpestriseasternracemaleRingOuzelrightatthesideoftheroadonourwaydownfromPomporovo.OurmainexpeditionofthedayfollowedtotheTrigradGorge.AspectacularlydeepgorgeintheRhodopeMountainswherethereisadeepcavewhichlegendhasitiswhereOrpheusenteredtheUnderworld.ThewholeareafromheretotheThracianplainswastheheartlandofthecultofOrpheus.Alongwaitatthesideoftheroadensued,wherewewereadvisednottouseourscopesincaseoneofustrippedoveralegandtumbledseveralhundredfeetintothegorge!AswemovedofftolookfurtherupIwaslaggingbehindastherestenteredtheroadtunnelandsuddenlytherewasaflashofgreyandscarletfrombehindmeandoneflewstraightaheadacrossthegorge.Iwasabletotrackitasitmovedquicklyalongtherockfaceflyingandresettlingbutcouldn’tgetanyoneelseontoit.AfewothershadabriefglimpselaterbutthatwasitbeforelunchatafishrestaurantfurtherupthegorgewhereIaddedanotherliferintheshapeofasplendidmaleSerin.ThenitwasbackdowntostakeouttheWallcreepernestandhopeforthebest.JustasDerekthoughtwereallyhadtomoveononeofuspoppedawayforapeeandthereitwasabovehimontherockface.Amazinglyitmovedrounduntilitwasrightaboveusandweenjoyedsplendidviewsofthemale.AbirdIhavewantedtoseesinceIlookedthroughmydad’sPetersonfieldguideasasmallboyandthemaintargetofthetripformanyincludingme.Hardlysurprisinglyitwasvotedbirdofthetrip.
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TrigradGorgeandmaleWallcreepertherecourtesyofRussTofts
WethendroveontotheEasternRhodopestoournexthotelontheArdaRiverseeingasuperbRockBuntingfromabridgealongthewaytogetherwithgreatviewsofRed-RumpedSwallowsfromaboveastheyflewupanddowntheriverwithCragandHouseMartins.AnotherstopwastoviewoneofthemanyWhiteStorknestswhichcharacterisedthevillagesoftheRhodopeandalsogaveusgreatviewsofSpanishSparrowswhichcommonlynestinsidestork’snests.
WhiteStork’snestsupportingacolonyofSpanishSparrowsandTheArdaRiver
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AmorningwalkfromourhotelproducedaveryobligingNightingalerespondingtoDerek’smachine,thefirstIhaveseensinceIwasakidgoingtoMinsmere.ThebestviewsofHoopoesweretobehadheretogetherwithanobligingHawfinchinalowtreeandanotherlifer-before-breakfast–SombreTit.
Red-RumpedSwallowsnearthehotelontheArdaandStudenKladenetsDam
ThefirstportofcallthatdaywasStudenKladenetsDamwhereanothercolourfulEuropeanspecialwasadded–BlueRockThrushalongwithverycloseviewsofapairofEasternBlack-earedWheatearsthemaleexhibitingalmostallblackandwhite,IsabellineWheatearsandthefirstofseveralLesserGreyShrikes.ThemaintargetofthedaywastobethefamousvulturefeedingstationofMadzharovo.Weenjoyed62GriffonVulturesfeedingonthecarcasseslaidoutdailyforthemalongwith4EgyptianVultures(thesymboloftheBulgarianequivalentoftheRSPB)andagiantBlackVulturewithawingtagbearingthenumber64whichhadcomeoverfromnorthernGreecewheretheybreed.BlackKites,3foxesandRavensjoinedthebanquet.
Above:EasternFestooncourtesyJeanThomas
OurpicniclunchgaveusexcellentviewsofSardinian,EasternOrpheanandBarredWarblers,aWoodchatShriketogetherwithlotsofEasternFestoonbutterfliesandBlack-veinedWhitesandawildTortoise.IntheKrumovitsaValleylateronwewaitedaverylongtimeforwhatturnedouttobeanalltobriefviewofanotherofthespecialitybirdsofthetrip,LevantSparrowhawkalongwithShort-toedEagle,amuchappreciatedRollerandseveralGoldenOrioleswhichwereindailysupplythereon.SomewherenearStudenKladenetsvillagewasour4thshrikeofthedayabeautifulmaleMaskedShrike.ThePallidSwiftcolonywasnolongerinthevillageduetobuildingworkhowever.Theveryendofthedayproducedoneofmanybonusbirdsforus–aCommonQuailwhichshotoutacrosstheroadinresponsetotape.
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BlackVultureno.64fromNorthernGreece(left)andGriffonandEgyptianVultures(right)
ThefollowingdayLyuboguidedustoaspotinthemountainswherehehadfoundaRockThrush’snestanditdulyobligedarounditsstrangecone-shapednestontherockface.HeretoomosthadanexcellentviewofSubalpineWarbler,averycloseSyrianWoodpecker(thefirstofseveralonthetrip)andRussfoundmeanOrtolanBuntingaboutaquarterofamileawayinthescope!AnothertargetliferformewhichfortunatelyIwastoseemoresuccessfullylateron.WealsohadatourfeetthesightofanextraordinarytypeoflacewingcalledNemopteracoa.
Above:Nempoteracoa
AstopintheMadzharovoCraterproducedmoreBlueRockThrush,anobligingChukar,BootedEagle,Short-toedEagle,soaringEgyptianandGriffonVultures,twojuvenilePeregrinesandapairofLong-leggedBuzzards.Perhapsthebestbonusbirdofallwasthenspottedbyyoungeagle-eyedChrisfromthebackofthemovingcoach.ThereonadeadstumpoutintheopeninfullviewbythesideoftheroadwasaNightjar.
Chukar
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Above:NightjarcourtesyRussTofts
Thiswasonthewaytoseeanothertripspecial–Olive-treeWarblerwhichwesawbutnotterriblywell.OthersweretoseeonemuchbetteratanothersiteonthewaytoBurgasbutImisseditwatchingbutterflieswithRuss.Theafternoon’sstopwasacloselyguardedsitewhereImperialEagleswerenesting.Wehadviewsofthefemalecomingintolandandajuvenilethenthefemaleonthenestatsomerangeandpartlyobscuredbyfoliage.ApairofMontagu’sHarriersseenwelloverfieldsfromthemovingcoachbroughttheday’sraptortallyto13species.OurdrivethentookusontoBurgasandtheseasideresortofPomoriewhereouraimwastoexplorethecoastalsalinelagoons.Thefollowingmorning’spre-breakfastwalkwasnottodisappointintheliferdepartmentwithaTawnyPipit.ThefirstfulldayaroundthelagoonsaroundBurgasproducedasuperbselectionofwetlandandwaterbirdsalthoughwehadmissedmostofthepassagewaders.ThemaintripspecialitytargetwasonLakeVayahometobothGreatWhiteandDalmationPelicanswherewealsosawthefirstofmanyBlack-crownedNightHerons,PurpleHerons,LittleBitternandSquaccoHeronsandonalargeexpanseoffloodedfields,creatingexcitementforLyuboinparticular,wasaCattleEgret–aBulgarianvagrant.Itwasfuntotellhimwe’dhadoneinManchestertoo!HerewehadFerruginousDuckswhichcountsasaliferreallyastheseweretherealdealandnotyourdodgyEnglishvariety.AWhite-tailedEaglecamerightoverheadandtherewerePygmyCormorantsbuttheseweredistantandremainedsothroughoutthetrip.IhadmuchbetterviewsofthisspeciesinthePoDeltainItalyafewyearsback.
FerruginousDuckLakeDurankulakandfemaleRed-footedFalconcourtesyofRussTofts
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LaterinthedayatastopnearLakeAtanasovosomeofourpartyenjoyedPendulineTitswhilstLyuboandIsplitoffandhefoundmetwoGull-billedTerns.Yetanotherlifer.Thissuperbdayendedwithmoremuchdesiredlifersforme:CollaredPratincoles,43Red-FootedFalconsand,atanareaofstonygroundnearPomporie,apairofStone-CurlewwhichIhaveneverseeninEnglandeitherhavingnevermadethepilgrimagetoWeetingHeath.ThenextdaysdrivewasnorthtoKavarnamakingalastexplorationofthelagoonsandturningupsomesmartbreedingplumageCurlewSandpipers,twoLittleStintandsomerealRuddyShelduck.TheprimetargetsitealongthewaywasformoretripspecialsandlifersinanareaofforestnearGoritsa.HearwehadgreatviewsofMiddleSpottedWoodpeckeroutintheopenonadeadtreeandaliferforall:Semi-collaredFlycatcherwhichbreedhere.
Middle-spottedwoodpeckerandSemi-collaredFlycatcher
ThelaststopofthedaywasagainahighlightformanywithavisittoanareaofcliffsnearKavarnawichhostbreedingEagleOwlandonewasobliginglysatoutintheopenforussunningitself.
Above:EagleOwl
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ThefollowingdaystargetwasLakeDurankulakwherethewesternmostbreedingPaddyfieldWarbleraretobefound.Howeverbeforethatonthepre-breakfaststrollrightoutsidethehotelamaleLevantSparrowhawkflewbypracticallyrightinfrontofmyface.LakeDurankulakrightnexttothebeachisasuperblybeautifulplaceandwewishedwecouldhavestayedtherealldayreally.OurPaddyfieldWarblersshowedwellasdidSavi’sWarbler(bothlifersforme)andsomeobligingCuckoos.
Birdingonthebeach,LakeDurankulakandPaddyfieldWarblerLakeDurankulakcourtesyofRussTofts
Above:CuckooLakeDurankulak
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Above:ringedSavi’sWarbler
OurpicniclunchstopwasanareaofcliffsatVailatawithThracianburialtombscutintothecliffedgeandwideopenplaininlandalivewithCalandraLarks,acoupleofGreaterShort-toedLarksandPiedWheatearinthecarparkofthetinyvisitorcentre.Russcalledinagroupof15Rose-colouredStarlingsandIgotontothemastheyzoomedpastnorth.Luckilyforallwelatercaughtupwithabedraggled-lookingflockof40atCapeKaliakra
CalandraLarkVailataarchaeologicalsitecourtesyRusstoftsandRose-colouredStarlingsCapeKaliarkra
ThefinalmorningatKavarnastartedwithanotherlookforLevantSparrowhawkoutsidethehotellookingdownintothevalleyandRussfoundadistantmaleaddingittohislifelistatlast.Luckilythebirdcamecloserandwasseenwelldisplayingtoafemalewhichperchedupinatreeinthescopeallowingeveryonetogetontoit.LyuboexplainedacleardiagnosticfeatureofLevantSparrowhawkwhichwasclearlyvisibleinthescope:theblackeyeasopposedtotheyelloweyeofSparrowhawk.Wealsogottoobserveandnotewelltheblacktipstothewingsofthemaleinflight.ItwasthenontotheDanubeValleyandLakeSrebarnafamousforitsbreedingDalmationPelicanswhichwehadalreadyencounteredearlieronthetripbygoodfortune.Icountedoffanimpressive223WhiteStorks,61GreatWhitePelicans,12BlackStorks,12Spoonbillsandvariousotherheronsducksandwadersonsomefloodedfieldsalongtheway.LakeSrebarnagaveusexcellentviewsofWhiskeredTernandmoreFerruginous
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Ducks,Black-neckedGrebeonthenestandGreatWhiteEgretswhicharesurprisinglyrareinBulgariaasabreedingbird.PerhapsthehighlightwaswatchingamalePendulineTitworkingonitsnest.ThePelicanBirdingLodgewherewestayedthenightinthevillageofVetrenwasadelightandtheeveningwasrounded-offwithaLong-EaredOwlflyingoverthehotel,aScopsOwlhooting(notseenonthetripthough)andNightjarchurringfromthelane.ThefinalfulldaywastakenupwithaverylongdrivetoSofiabringingourtotaltravelforthetripto2060km(over1,300miles).AlongthewaythehighpointwastheabandonedfishpondsofNovaChernawhereIaddedMarshWarblertomylifelistandweallhadsplendidviewsofanestingWryneckandanobligingmaleLittleBittern.
Above:MarshWarblerNovaChernafishpondscourtesyRussTofts
ThelongdriveinvolvedanumberofspeculativestopsalongthewaywhichyieldedamalemauraStonechat,Whinchat,moreBlack-headedWagtailswhichfeaturedprominentlyonthetripandaCorncrakewhichrefusedtoshow.OurfinalnightwasspentonMountVitoshahighaboveSofiawhereoureveningmealgaveusPallidSwiftsatlastrightoutsidethepanoramawindows.Liferswerebeginningtorunoutandtherewerenonebeforebreakfast!Butthepost-breakfastmorningwalkthroughthetreesanduptothesnowlinegaveusapairofWaterPipitseatinginsectsoffthesnowmeltandafinalcherry-on-the-cakeliferofasuperbtripaswecaughtupwithRockThrushandIwasamongstanadvancepartytoenjoythebestviewsbeforetherestofthepartywereallabletoscopeitoff.
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Above:digiscopedRockThrush!
Thepartyturnedaveryimpressive210speciesofwhich4wereheardonly.Imissedafewbutstillhit200andsaw60lifers.ManythankstoBirdquest,ourguidesDerekScottandLyuboProfirov,thegreatcompanyofallourpartyandspecialthankstoRussToftsandJeanThomasforlettingmeusetheirbrilliantphotos.Alltheotherhand-heldfuzzyaffairsdigiscopedbymyself.Seeourtourleader,DerekScott’stripreportandfullspecieslistatwww.birdquest.co.uk
TimWilcox,July2010
www.manchesterbirding.com