button hole machine

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BUTTON HOLE MACHINE

BY MADHUMATHI. G



INTRODUCTIONy

Buttonholes are holes in fabric that are paired with functional buttons that serve as fasteners and as decorative buttons.

y Buttonholes may be either made by hand sewing or automated by asewing machine.

y B

uttonholes are the essential finishing touch on blouses, jackets andany other project that utilizes buttons for closure.

y They are normally stitched when the garment is finished.

y The simplest buttonholes are used on shirts, blouses and other light

weight garments.y The complex buttonholes are preferred for all tailored garments

such as jackets, overcoats, etc.



GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS

yThe form and sizeof the buttonhole

y

The stitch typeyThe stitch bight

y Stitch density

y Shapes of Buttonhole

stitches:

y Circle

y

Eyelety Radial

y With or without bar tack

y Straight legs

y

Overlapped legsy Rounded edges

y Square edges.



PRINCIPLES OF BUTTONHOLE STITCHFORMATION

yBased on the principle of lock stitch or chainstitch.

yChain stitched - good appearance and lessdurability.

y It provides purl effect and is preferred for jackets,

light weight materials, etc.yLock stitch - increased life and less attractive

appearance than the chain stitch.



BUTTONHOLE MACHINES -- JUKI --LBH-1790, COMPUTER-CONTROLLED

MACHINE



STITCH PATTERNS



SETTINGS FOR BUTTONHOLE MACHINES

y The normal settings to be considered in buttonhole machines are,

y Height of the needle bar

y Needle to hook timing

y The position of needle and needle guard.

y

Adjusting the feed motor to have uniform feedy Adjusting knife drop position with relation to throat plate

y Adjusting the stroke of cloth cutting knife

y Replacing knife with reference to the button hole width and length

y Adjusting the needle thread trimmer timing

y

Adjusting the needle thread trimmer heighty Adjusting the bobbin thread trimmer

y Adjusting presser foot lift, pedal, and take up spring tension

y Adjusting the thread breakage plate and all the sensors.



y According to the width of the button hole, the size of the knife ischosen.

y

The knife opens the hole in number of strokes to make neat finish.y For lock stitch machines the bigger hook bobbins are available to

have higher production.

y Operating panel facilitates complete data entry like the selection of

pattern, editing the pattern chosen, cloth cut length, stitch density, bar tacking length, eyelet shape length, number of basting, bastingpitch, pitch and width of going and returning, knife motion, speed,thread tension, and so on.

y

Modern machines are coming with different pedal positions usingwhich the material can be accurately positioned and stitched.

y It consists of intermediate position to position the fabric thensewing opposition to hold and stitch.



TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Sewing speed Max. 4,200rpm, Normal 3,600rpm

Needle bar stroke 34.6mm

Size of cloth cutting knife 6.4

31.8mm (1/4"

1-1/4")Bartacking width Max. 5.0mm

Buttonhole length Max. 41mm (optional: 70mm, 120mm)

Precision of needle throwing mechanism 0.05mm

Needle thread tension Active tension (electronic thread tension control system)

Number of stitches Automatically computed from the size of the buttonhole

Needle (at the time of delivery) DP×5 (#11J) #11J#14J

Hook DP type, full-rotary hook

Lift of the work clamp 14mm

Auto-lifter Provided as standard (stepping motor type)Needle throwing system Stepping motor

Cloth feeding system Intermittent feed by stepping motor

Cloth cutting knife system By double-acting solenoid

Number of standard patterns 30 patterns

Number of patterns Max. 99 patterns



OPERATION PANEL

y STANDARD PANEL

y All kinds of data can beentered on or selected fromthe operation panel.

y Various data, such as patternnumbers and stitch shapes areindicated on the LCD sectionwith easy-to-understandpictographs.

y IP-310A

y large color LCD touch panel has beenadopted for the display. It gives cleardisplays that allow the operator tounderstand operating procedures.

y The IP-310A panel can be connected to apersonal computer and can store data on

CompactFlash.. This allows data to beexchanged or shared among sewingmachines installed in a factory or amongremote factories.

y The IP-310A panel has been provided witha process improvement supporting featurethrough the indication of the operational

state of the sewing machine, and amaintenance and management feature forindicating the needle changing timing andcleaning timing.



JUKI's unique active tension (Electronic

thread tension control system).y Needle thread tension for sewing parallel and

bartacking sections of buttonholes can be separately

controlled through the operation panel and stored

in memory according to various sewing conditions

(e.g., type of thread, type of material and sewingspeed).

y The machine is able to change the needle thread tensions at the paralleland bartacking sections of the buttonhole, to produce a beautiful

buttonhole shape. This capability helps greatly in preventing thread breakage.

y Needle thread tension is activated at the beginning and end of sewing. Thisprevents unthreading of the needle thread, and thread fraying that is likelyto occur at the beginning of sewing.

y Thread tension for basting stitching can be specified separately.



Basting stitch mechanism is effective for

the production of beautiful buttonholes.y The basting stitch is effective on elastic materials such as knits.

y Basting stitch: Since the needle thread is tucked in without fail,itwill never jut out of the buttonhole seams. Basting stitch can besewn by nine rounds.



Major drive mechanism is electronically

controlled

y An electronic control feature has been adopted for the material feedmechanism, needle rocking mechanism, needle thread trimmingmechanism, bobbin thread trimming mechanism, cloth cuttingknife mechanism and presser bar lifting mechanism.

y In addition, mechanisms such as V-belts,stop-motion mechanisms and cams have been

substantially reduced to ensure operation with

lower vibration and noise.

y A direct-driven system that directly connectsthe compact AC servomotor to the main shaft has been adopted.

y All adjustment values are entered as data. They can be set or storedin the memory on the operation panel.



BUTTON SEWING MACHINE



y Button sewing machines are used to attach the buttonsto the surface of the garment.

y Various machines are available to different kinds of buttons.

y The variables of button sewing machines are:

y Size and shape of the button which determines thesize and type of the button clamp

yThe number and disposition of holes

yThe form of stitching either parallel or cross,whether button is sewn shank or neck

yThe stitch type

y

The number of stitches



THANK YOU

button hole machine

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