buyer manual

8/18/2019 buyer manual

1/29

ASSQC

Buyers Manual Analysis

Ayush Gautam , Prerna Khatri , Ravi Kant Singh

qwertyuiopasdfghjklzxcvb

mqwertyuiopasdfghjklzxcv

bnmqwertyuiopasdfghjklzx

cvbnmqwertyuiopasdfghjk

zxcvbnmqwertyuiopasdfgh

klzxcvbnmqwertyuiopasdf

hjklzxcvbnmqwertyuiopasdghjklzxcvbnmqwertyuiopa

sdfghjklzxcvbnmqwertyuio

pasdfghjklzxcvbnmqwertyopasdfghjklzxcvbnmqwert

yuiopasdfghjklzxcvbnmqw

rtyuiopasdfghjklzxcvbnmqwertyuiopasdfghjklzxcvbn

mqwertyuiopasdfghjklzxcv

bnmqwertyuiopasdfghjklzx


2/29

BUYER "#$U#% &'$(E$(

)* )ntroduction+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++,

%iaison '-ce .uality #ssurance &ontacts++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++,Basic .uality #ssurance Expectations++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++/

))* 0abric )nspection 1rogram++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++23

0our 1oint ystem++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++22

4efect &lassi5cation+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++22

0abric )nspection++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++26

7nit Bundle )nspections++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++28

&olor 1rogram Basics++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++28

Run &ards and hade Bands++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++29

(rim and Raw "aterial )nspections+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++2:

)))* 0abric (esting Basics+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++2/

0inished ;arment (esting ummary+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++2/

(esting Evaluation and Reporting++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++2<

)=* &utting and preading )nspections++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++63

"onitoring preading and &utting+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++63

)mportant 1oints 0or 7nits++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++62

preading and &utting .& )nspector 1rocedures+++++++++++++++++++++++++62

&utting Room )nspector 1rocedures+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++66

"anual &utting )nspections+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++66

&$& > &omputer &utting++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++6?

Bierrebi @BARAB*++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++6?

=* )nAprocess )nspections+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++68

)nspector 1rocedures++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++68

ummary of the 0ollowAup Bundle 1rocess+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++69


3/29

=)* #dditional "onitoring+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++6:

eam eal > Bonding+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++6:

"easurement 1rocedures++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++6,

1reA0inal )nspections++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++6,

.uality Reports and 4aily "eeting+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++6,

.uality tandards+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++6,

4isplay and 'rganizational Boards+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++6,

Recognition and )ncentive 1rograms++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++6/

4efect &odes++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++6/

1ilot %ots+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++6/

=estibule (raining+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++6/

=))* 0inal )nspection+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++6<

=)))* (he 0inal #udit 1rocess+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++?3

Random ampling+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++?3

ampling 1lans+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++?3

hen to )nspect+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++?3

ingle ampling 1lan for $ormal )nspection+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++?6

Using the CDow (o "easure "anual+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++??

ReA#udits+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++??

=)))* .uali5ed 0actory )nspector 1rogram+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++?9

#11E$4)FE+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++?:

)* Broken $eedle and #uxiliary ewing (ool 1olicy+++++++++++++++++++++++?:

))* 4own 1roduct &ompliance 'verview++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++83

&& 292 (est %ab Requirements+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++83

&& 296 4own uppliers+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++83

&& 29? 0actory "onitoring and (esting++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++82


4/29

&& 298 0inished ;oods 0actory )nA1rocess and 0inal )nspection"onitoring+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++86

&& 299 0inished ;oods (esting++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++8?

&& 29: 0ully =ertical 4own upplier (esting+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++8?

&& 29, && .& "onitoring+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++88

@)))* 0inished ;arment (esting+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++98

Requirement++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++98

1rocedure++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++98

(esting Evaluation and Reporting++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++9:

(orque > kew+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++9,

@)=* && 2/33 eam (ape &ommercialization++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++:3

&& 2/32 eam eal (rial &ondition+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++:3

&& 2/36 eam eal "achine &alibration 1rocedures+++++++++++++++++:6

&& 2/3? (esting Requirements++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++:6

&& 2/38 )nA1rocess eam eal (esting 1rocedures++++++++++++++++++++:?

&& 2/39 0inished 1roduct ;arment ashing 1rocedures+++++++++++:8

&& 2/3: eam eal (roubleshooting++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++:9&& 2/3, eam eal (ape torage Examples++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++:,

&& 2/3/ eam eal Exterior #ppearance Examples+++++++++++++++++++:/

&& 2/3< eam eal )nterior #ppearance Examples++++++++++++++++++++:<

&& 2/23 eam eal (est Report 0orm+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++,3

&& 2/22 eam eal "achine &alibration Report 0orm++++++++++++++++,2

@=* Deat (ransfer>creen 1rint .uality Requirements++++++++++++++++++++,6

&& 2/93 Deat (ransfer>creenprint &ommercialization++++++++++++++,6

&& 2/92 #pplication Equipment Requirements++++++++++++++++++++++++++,?

&& 2/96 Deat (ransfer>creenprint 4evelopment (esting++++++++++,?

&& 2/98 Deat (ransfer "achine &alibration 1rocedures+++++++++++++,8

&& 2/99 Deat (ransfer 1reA1roduction (esting Requirements++ + +,9

&& 2/9: )nA1rocess Deat (ransfer>creenprint #udit 1rocedures,:


5/29

&& 2/9, 0inished 1roduct ;arment ashing 1rocedures+++++++++++,,

&& 2/9/ Deat (ransfer>creen 1rint (roubleshooting+++++++++++++++++,,

&& 2/:3 Deat (ransfer Exterior #ppearance Examples++++++++++++++,/

&& 2/:2 Deat (ransfer>creenprint ash (est Report 0orm+++++++,<

&& 2/:6 Deat (ransfer "achine &alibration Report 0orm+++++++++++/3

@=)* 1uckering tandards+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++/2

4ouble $eedle 1uckering tandards++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++/2

ingle $eedle 1uckering tandards+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++/6

@=))* # G E (echnical Bulletin++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++/?

ewing "achine "aintenance++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++/?ewing "aintenance &hecklists.........................................................831reventative "aintenance..................................................................83titch 0orming ystem.........................................................................84(hread Dandling ystem.....................................................................84'ther (hread Dandling ystems........................................................86titch G eam .uality..........................................................................86

@=)))* 0actory #pparel izing #udits++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++//

@)F* 1ackaging &ompliance #udits++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


6/29


7/29

+ns'e$ti%n #rame9 "he #rame sh%ul) (e eui''e) ith a varia(le s'ee) )rive,a yar) :%r meter; $%unter, un)er $arriage light t% see thr%ugh the #a(ri$ an)%verhea) light #%r ins'e$ti%n %# the #a$e %# the #a(ri$. "he #a$t%ry sh%ul)have '%sitive #ee) ma$hine t% av%i) stret$hing the #a(ri$. Many 0nits illreuire an a''r%'riate ins'e$ti%n ma$hine.

+ns'e$ti%n s'ee)9 "he #rame is $a'a(le %# running u' t% 35 yar)s %# #a(ri$'er minute :!< meters 'er minute; an) in$lu)es (%th #%rar) an) reverse$%ntr%ls.

=ieing >istan$e9 "he ins'e$ti%n is )%ne #r%m a )istan$e %# ! t% 4 #eet :65t% !5 $entimeters; in %r)er t% have a vie %# the entire i)th %# #a(ri$.

2ighting9 "he sur#a$e illuminati%n level is %# minimum 5


8/29

0abric )nspection

Ma@%r >e#e$ts

Any )e#e$t severe en%ugh that it %ul) result in $ust%mer )issatis#a$ti%n, %rgenerally $lassi#y the garment as a se$%n), %r %# less uality.

Min%r >e#e$ts

An im'er#e$ti%n that may %r may n%t $ause a se$%n), )e'en)ing u'%n itsl%$ati%n in the 1nishe) garment.

"hey maintain %ng%ing )e#e$t re$%gniti%n training t% ensure $%nsisten$yam%ng all internal an) e-ternal +ns'e$t%rs. "his in$lu)es having an u')ate)#a(ri$ li(rary.

'ther &onsiderations

o Sha)e must mat$h the a''r%ve) stan)ar) #r%m si)e t% si)e an) en) t%

en) thr%ugh%ut the r%llo >% n%t s$%re min%r )e#e$ts, alth%ugh they mar0 them

o >% n%t $%unt m%re than a t%tal %# #%ur '%ints 'er %ne linear yar)

o C%ntinu%us running )e#e$ts an) %thers ithin %ne linear yar) is %nly 4

'%intso All h%les are $%nsi)ere) 4 '%ints

1rimary teps

C%lum(ia S'%rtsear highly re$%mmen)s all #a$t%ries (egin t% test an)

ins'e$t ea$h #a(ri$ shi'ment imme)iately u'%n re$ei't.

7nit Bundle )nspections

"he &%ur P%int System t% )etermine a$$e'ta(ility still a''lies.o +# )eli$ate 0nits are inv%lve), a n%rmal ins'e$ti%n #rame may stret$h

the #a(ri$

• A tu(ular 0nit ins'e$ti%n ma$hine all%s (%th si)es t% (e ins'e$te)

•Sh%ul) (e ran sl% en%ugh t% see (%th si)es

• Mirr%rs must (e $lean t% n%ti$e )e#e$ts

o Knit (un)les $an (e ins'e$te) %n an a''r%'riate ta(le

o /nsures ins'e$ti%n $%verage %# (%th si)es #%r tu(ular 0nits

&olor and hade &ontrol


9/29

A #%rmal C%l%r C%ntr%l 'r%gram is re$%mmen)e) an) in$lu)es a''r%'riate$%mmuni$ati%n (eteen the &a(ri$ Mill, "rims Su''lier, &a$t%ry an) Retailer. "he Pie$e G%%)s +ns'e$ti%n, "esting, Cutting >e'artment, Pr%)u$ti%n an) QC "eams %r0 $l%sely t% ensure $%l%r an) sha)e a$$ura$y an) $%nsisten$y ismet an) maintaine).

&olor and hade &ontrol Basics

o /a$h #a(ri$ r%ll %r (un)le is $he$0e) #%r 'r%'er sha)e mat$h

o 68 i)e sat$h is $ut #r%m e)ge t% e)ge %r i)e en%ugh t% $%ver a

re'eato C%m'are) t% stan)ar) un)er light (%- usually ! eual layers*'lies

o se hea) in sat$h t% $%m'are si)esi)e an) en) t% en) %# ins'e$te)

r%llso Sha)e run $ar)s 0e't t% l%g all re$eive) r%lls an) use) t% im'r%ve mill

'er#%rman$e

o Kee' a''r%ve), )ate) stan)ar) sat$h, $lean, $%vere) an) %ut %# lighto Certain #a(ri$s su$h as syntheti$s are m%re )i$ult t% sha)e.

(R)" #$4 R# "#(ER)#% )$1E&()'$

+ns'e$ti%n ta0es 'la$e %n all in$%ming trim items in$lu)ing, all la(els, sna's,(utt%ns, i''ers, =el$r%, 'hem%s, ta'es, elasti$s, eyelets, 'at$hes, 'a$0ingmaterials et$..

o A .? AQ2 D%rmal %r "ightene) sam'ling is use) t% a$$e't in)ivi)ual

uantities

• +# a $%nsignment is less than ?55 'ie$es, ins'e$t at least 57

ran)%mly %r a min %# !5 'ie$es, hi$hever is highero &%r r%lls %# trim, #%ll% the 'rin$i'les %# the &%ur P%int System,

ins'e$ting a min. %# 57

+ns'e$ti%ns in$lu)e9o Sha)e, $%l%r, sie, )esign, lay%ut, %r)ing here a''r%'riate, P>M

num(er, gra'hi$so C%m'are) t% the a''r%ve) se(y sam'le

o General uality an) $%nsisten$y

o Quantity re$eive) against 'a$0ing list an) %r)ere) uantity

o

Pr%)u$t Sa#ety im'li$ati%ns E n% metal is use) in the 'a$0aging %#materials an) is $he$0e) thr%ugh a metal )ete$t%ro All n%n$%n1rming g%%)s t% (e segregate), $learly mar0e) an) st%re)

se'aratelyo &aile) l%ts are ins'e$te) 557 an) reau)ite)

o "rim $ar)s are a''r%ve) (y C%lum(ia S'%rtsear QA


10/29

)$;%E #"1%)$; 1%#$ 0'R $'R"#% )$1E&()'$ I(R)">0)$4)$;>R# "#(ER)#%

:&FR +"/MS F& QAD"+";

AQ2 ACC/P"/> B B/R

1' or

%ot ize ample ize

#cceptable .uality %evels

:n%rmal ins'e$ti%n;

+:9 2+3 2+9

#c Re #c Re #c Re

! 8 ! 5 5

? 3 5 5

6 !? ? 5

!6 ?5 8 5 5 5

? 5 3 5 5 5

?5 !5 5 5 5

? !85 3! 5 ! !

!8 ?55 ?5 ! ! ! 3

?5 ,!55 85 ! ! 3 3 4

!5 3,!55 !? ! 3 3 4 ? 6


11/29

3!5

5,555 !55 3 4 ? 6 < 8

5,55 E3?,555 3? ? 6 < 8 5

3?,55 E

?5,555 ?55 < 8 5 4 ?

?5,55

?55,555 855 5 4 ? ! !!

?55,55 an)

%ver 855 5 4 ? ! !!

"his 'lan sh%ul) is als% share) use) (y the "rim*A$$ess%ries su''liers, at the

same .6? level, t% re)u$e the )iHeren$es in ins'e$ti%n results. A S$%re$ar) is

use) t% tren) 'er#%rman$e %# all su''liers.

"ests t% 'er#%rm )e'en)s u'%n 'r%)u$t (ut 'rimarily in$lu)es9

o >imensi%nal Sta(ility : Shrin0age;

o A''earan$e Retenti%n

o Blee)ing :C%l%r #astness;

o S0eness :"%rue;

o Iet an) >ry Cr%$0ing

)mportant 1oints for 7nits

o /sta(lish an) #%ll% a #%rmal 'r%$e)ure t% rela- 0nits as l%ng as

ne$essary, 'ri%r t% s'rea)ing, a#ter s'rea)ing an) a#ter $utting asarrante) (y #a(ri$ $hara$teristi$s.

o S'rea)ing ma$hine is m%nit%re) #%r a very rela-e) s'ee) an) la$0 %#

tensi%n.


12/29

o S'rea)ing ma$hines ith%ut )etensi%ning $a'a(ility :'%sitive #ee);, is

n%t use) #%r 0nits.o Ply heights %# 0nits are $%ntr%lle) an) are a''r%'riate t% the a$tual

$utting meth%).o Pla$e 'attern $%rre$tly %n uarter turne) #a(ri$ s% the #%l) #alls %n the

si)e %# a garment.

1RE#4)$; #$4 &U(()$; .& )$1E&('R 1R'&E4URE

+ns'e$t%rs m%nit%r an) re$%r) results #%r ea$h S'rea)er, a minimum %# ti$e'er )ay. A #%rmal mar0er a''r%val 'r%$ess is in 'la$e an) all #a(ri$ an))%$uments are als% a''r%ve) 'ri%r t% release. Any rela-ati%n nee)s areveri1e). "he 'rimary $hara$teristi$ t% m%nit%r in s'rea)ing in$lu)es9

o /)ge an) en) alignment :C"C $riti$al t% $%st;

o "ensi%n %# s'rea) :C"Q $riti$al t% uality;

o "a(le mar0so S'li$es an) %verla's

o A$$ura$y %# mar0er in$lu)ing $%n)iti%n

o Mar0er 'la$ement

o Pattern $he$0

o Cutta(le i)th

o >ire$ti%n an) ty'e %# s'rea)

o Ply $%unts

o Straight e)ge * leaning

o B%ing %# #a(ri$

o Sha)ing an) general ualityo D% sta'les %r 'ins sh%ul) (e use)

+ns'e$t%rs m%nit%r an) re$%r) results #%r ea$h Cutter a minimum %# ti$e 'er)ay. "he 'rimary $hara$teristi$ t% m%nit%r in $utting in$lu)es9

o Ply mat$hing

o Mis$uts

o P%%r $utting %r e)ges

o D%t$h )e'th an) 'la$ement

(esting Evaluation and Reporting "he #%ll%ing ta(le lists 0ey '%ints evaluate) :i# a''li$a(le; #%r ea$hgarment teste).


13/29

Categ%ry +tem Assessment Criteria&a(ri$ >imensi%nal

Sta(ilityBase) %n 1(er $%ntent, see CSC?55A , D%te any )iHerentialshrin0age , Pu$0ering (eteenlinings, 'anels, an) *%r %ther

$%m'%nents %# the garmentS0eness : t%rue ; 2ess than ?7 #%r t%'s, 37 #%r(%tt%ms

&a(ri$ Sur#a$e Pilling 3 %r (etter using AS"M Ph%t%gra'hi$'illing stan)ar)s.

Snagging Any n%ti$ea(le 'i$0s %r snags are n%ta$$e'ta(le

Pile D%te any (al) s'%ts, l%ss %# $%verage

C%m'%nentsJ/m(ellishments

Blee)ing* C%l%r$hange

Rate a#ter + an) 3 laun)ering $y$lesusing AA"CC Grey S$ales #%r C%l%rChange an) Staining

Seams*stit$hes*eyelets*(utt%nh%les

Grinning, (r%0en, 'u$0ere), %veralla''earan$e

S$reen 'rints*eattrans#ers

A)heren$e, ash %ut, )ura(ility,%verall a''earan$e

Pat$hes*/m(r%i)ery Pu$0ering, #raying, (lee)ing, %verall

a''earan$e2ining*#using,laminati%n

Pu$0ering, )elaminating, (listering,%verall a''earan$e

&asteners9%%0*2%%', i''ers,(utt%ns, et$.

Pu$0ering, 'aint $hi''ing: 2/A>(ase) ;, r%ugh %r shar' e)ges,'r%'er installati%n,. Che$0 the#un$ti%n %# #asters*$l%sures (y%'erating ? times

Ri( $%llars an) CuHs Fverall a''earan$e, )ist%rti%n,'illing, 1(rillati%n, et$.

"a'e*'i'ing Pu$0ering, %verall a''earan$e

/lasti$ /lasti$ity, tisting, $urling

>ra$%r) Iash )ura(ility, %verall a''earan$e,'r%'er ta$0ing

&i(er1ll*>%n Clum'ing, migrati%n, resilien$y


14/29

(orque > kew

&igure Pr%$e)ure #%r 1n)ing "%rue*S0e using the Si)e Seam meth%)

2ength %# G :G; "%rue*S0e L 55

2ength %# /G

&igure ! Pr%$e)ure #%r 1n)ing the "%rue*S0e using AA"CC meth%)


15/29

(hread RequirementsBasi$ @%in seam threa) reuirements are P%lyester C%re s'un ith

P%lyester Ira' uality.

o "e- !4

o "i$0et !5

eam %eaking

1roblem 1ossible &ause

A. "a'e )%es n%t B%n) R%ll M%unte) Ba$0ar)s

Ir%ng "a'e

Ir%ng Sealing C%n)iti%ns

Fil %r s%il %n ta'e %r $%ating

B. "a'e Sti$0s t% R%ller R%ll M%unte) Ba$0ar)s

D%le tem'erature t%% high

C. "a'e B%n) is Iea0 S'ee) t%% #ast heat is t%% l%

Ir%ng "a'e

D%le )%esnNt m%ve syn$hr%n%usly

ith u''er r%ller

+nsu$ient r%ller 'ressure

>. /)ge %r $enter %# ta'e n%t sealing R%llers are n%t ma0ing 'r%'er

$%nta$t

Air D%le n%t a)@uste) 'r%'erly


16/29

D%le %(stru$te) (y )ust %r %ther

)irt

/. "a'e s'lits at stit$h %r seam eat t%% high

/-$essive r%ller 'ressure

''er %r 2%er r%ller )e#%rme) an)

n%t r%un)

&. "a'e (urns thr%ugh #a(ri$ %r$hars

eat t%% high s'ee) t%% l%

Air D%le n%t a)@uste) 'r%'erly

Ir%ng "a'e

G. Seams lea0 at $r%ss%ver '%ints S'ee) t%% #ast heat is t%% l%

. "a'e ra's ar%un) r%llers Ir%ng "a'e

"a'e $ut t%% l%ng

R%ll M%unte) Ba$0ar)s

+. /-$essive Pu$0ering 2a$0 %# tensi%n

Ir%ng "a'e

4'UB%E $EE4%E 1U&7ER)$; (#$4#R4


17/29

tandard JH && 633:

4$2 4$6 4$? 4$8 4$9

(he above codes can be used to describe the level of puckering yousee+ 4$?K 4$8 and 4$9 are considered unacceptable before and>orafter pressing+

)$;%E $EE4%E 1U&7ER)$; (#$4#R4


18/29

tandard J && 633:

4$2 4$6 4$? 4$8 4$9

(he above codes can be used to describe the level of puckering yousee+ 4$? are considered marginal at bestK 4$8 and 4$9 areconsidered unacceptable before and>or after pressing+


19/29

(he photos below demonstrate examples of poor appearance of

seam tape application+

Roping seam a''earan$e (egins

ith im'r%'er t%'stit$hing an) is

'ermanently set hen seam seal

ta'e is a''lie). R%'ing $an als%

lea) t% 'u$0ering at e)ge %# seam

ta'e.

1uckering a''earan$e is $ause) #r%m t%% mu$h han) 'ulling #r%m seam

seal %'erat%r hile $l%th is un)er the #ee) r%llers %# seam seal ma$hine.

Se$%n)ary $ause $an (e i# t%% mu$h 'ressure an) heat are use) #%r ta'e

a''li$ati%n


20/29

aving a''earan$e is $ause) #r%m

t%% mu$h han) 'ulling #r%m seam

seal %'erat%r hile $l%th is un)er

the #ee) r%llers %# seam seal

ma$hine. Se$%n)ary $ause $an (e

i# t%% mu$h 'ressure an) heat are

use) #%r ta'e a''li$ati%n

"he (el% 'h%t%s )em%nstrate interi%r seam ta'e a''li$ati%n issues that ill

result in lea0age an) $ause 'r%)u$t #ailure.

Seam 'ull%ut an) uneven

seam trimming here the #a$e

#a(ri$ is sh%ing. "his ill

Seam all%an$e sh%ul) lay Oat

an) n%t (e tiste) ithin theseam t% (e ta'e). "his

interse$ti%n is es'e$ially thi$0


21/29

. 2%%se t%'stit$h threa)

$aught int% the seam ta'e.

!. neven seam trimming.


22/29

Deat (ransfer Exterior #ppearance ExamplesM%st '%%r a''earan$e issues are $ause) #r%m in$%rre$t tem'erature,

'ressure %r )ell time a''li$ati%n 'arameters (eing #%ll%e) t%

manu#a$tures suggesti%ns. "he (el% 'h%t%s )em%nstrate e-am'les %# '%%r

a''earan$e %# eat "rans#er a''li$ati%n.

1eeling a''earan$e is a #ailure %#

the heat trans#er t% (%n) t% the

#a$e #a(ri$ an) e see $%m'lete

#ailure.

Edge %ift or Dalo a''earan$e is the

glue) e)ges %# the heat trans#er have

n%t a-e) itsel# t% the #a$e #a(ri$.


23/29

&racking or Bubbling a''earan$e

is )em%nstrate) ith a single 'art %#the art%r0 #ailing.

0)$)DE4 1R'4U&( ;#R"E$(

#D)$;

o F(serve #%r any seam

a''earan$e a(n%rmalities %n #a$e si)e %# garment in$lu)ing'u$0ering, 'ulling, aving, r%'ing.

o

M%nit%r #%r any $%l%r stain %r migrati%n %n ta'e #r%m #a(ri$ $%ating.o Iat$h #%r any $%ating that is 'eele) #r%m #a(ri$ %r air (u((les

insi)e.o Any a(rasi%ns %n the e)ge %# seam ta'e.

o Seam ta'ing a''earan$e, 'eeling at $r%ss %r @%in seams, general

'eeling %r li#ting %# ta'e.&auses for eam %eakinga; Seam "a'e 'leats, (u((les %r )irt un)er the ta'e.(; "hrea) en)s. All threa)s are t% (e neatly trimme) $l%se t% stit$hes.$; All seams are t% (e trimme) %r sen t% *4, hen the seam is 1nishe)

ith t%'stit$hing an) *8 i# there is n% @%in seam t%'stit$hing.

); All ta'e is t% (e a''lie) $entere) in the i)th %# the seam all%an$e. +# ta'e is a''lie) t% $l%se t% the seam e)ge it ill $ause #ailure.

e; All small %r sh%rt length seams are t% (e ta'e) 1rst an) the l%ng lengthseams last.

#; All ta'e is t% (e trimme) at the en) %# the seal. +# unseale) ta'e ista'e) %ver itsel#, this ill $ause #ailure.

g; "a'e sh%ul) n%t e-ten) m%re than 'asse) the en) %# a seam, =el$r%,la(el, em(r%i)ery %r %ther ta'e) areas. "his reuirement is t% im'r%vethe %uter a''earan$e as ell as $%ntr%l seam ta'e usage.

h; All seam ta'e sh%ul) run t% the en) %# the #a(ri$ %r @%in seam. D%starts an) st%'s in the mi))le %# a @%in seam as this ill lea) t% #ailure.

i; "%'i$ally a''lie) la(els are reuire) t% (e seale) ith less r%ller'ressure t% 'revent #ailure %# la(el.

@; +# an area %# ta'e has n%t seale) 'r%'erly, it is a$$e'ta(le #%r a se$%n)a''li$ati%n %# heat an) 'ressure ith a seam seal ma$hine ith%ut ase$%n) layer %# ta'e.


24/29

0; All seams are reuire) t% (e ta'e) (e#%re the #r%nt i''er is set. +# thisis n%t $%m'lete) in this seuen$e, this ill $reate a small s'a$e ne-t t%the i''er that the ta'e ma$hine $ann%t seal that ill result in a#ailure.

l; &a$e si)e %# the #a(ri$ in seam all%an$e sh%ul) n%t (e sh%ing as this

ill n%t seal 'r%'erly an) $ause #ailure.m; +# ta'e ma$hine is running t% h%t, the en)s %# the ta'e hen st%''ingill #ail an) $ause a (ea)ing a''earan$e an) (e har) in te-ture.A)@ust the ma$hine 'r%'erly t% eliminate h%t en)s an) trim theunsightly (ea)s #r%m the ta'e.

n; +n$%rre$t air n%le '%siti%ning $an result in im'r%'er sealing,s$%r$hing %r (urnthr%ugh %# ta'e.

%; C%n1rm that the Air n%le an) r%ller are the 'r%'er i)th #%r ta'e(eing a''lie).

'; B%th n%le an) r%llers sh%ul) (e a''r%-imately *8 :3 mm; i)erthan the ta'e t% ensure eHe$tive sealing. "he n%le sh%ul) als% (e

$entere) t% $%ver the i)th %# the ta'e.; Partial seam seal ta'e starts an) st%'s sh%ul) (e 1nishe) ith $r%ss

%ver 'ress t% ensure 'r%'er a)hesi%n.

Deat (ransfer>creenprint electiono >uring 'r%)u$t $%mmer$ialiati%n, the eat "rans#er*S$reen'rint

art%r0 has (een generate) an) a''lie) t% $%mmer$ialie) #a(ri$ t%$%n1rm #a(ri$ a''li$ati%n $%m'ati(ility.

o All eat "rans#er*S$reen'rint has (een teste) an) a''r%ve) (y the

"rims Resear$h an) Pr%)u$t >evel%'ment teams #%r (%th art ualityan) a)heren$e t% the $%mmer$ialie) #a(ri$.

o eat "rans#er*S$reen'rint =en)%r testing )%$umentati%n is save) inP>M un)er the eat "rans#er*S$reen'rint P>M item num(er.

Deat (ransfer Receiving )nspection+ns'e$ti%ns are t% (e $%m'lete) %n all in$%ming all heat trans#er la(els (y#a$t%ry.

o .6? AQ2 D%rmal %r "ightene) eat "rans#er sam'ling is use) t% a$$e't

in)ivi)ual uantities.o +# a shi'ment is less than ?55 'ie$es, ins'e$ts 557.

+ns'e$ti%n reuirements in$lu)e9

o Sha)e, $%l%r, sie, )esign, lay%ut, %r)ing here a''r%'riate, P>M

num(er, gra'hi$so C%m'are) t% the a''r%ve) sam'le

o General uality an) $%nsisten$y

o Quantity re$eive) against 'a$0ing list an) %r)ere) uantity


25/29

o All n%n$%n#%rming g%%)s t% (e segregate), $learly mar0e) an) st%re)

se'arately&aile) l%ts are t% (e ins'e$te) 557 an) reau)it

#ppearance &onsiderationso eat "rans#er*S$reen'rints have the same elasti$ity as the #a(ri$ s%

that it $an m%ve ith the #a(ri$ hen the eat "rans#er*S$reen'rint isa''lie).

"here sh%ul) (e n% $ra$0ing, 'eeling %r (u((ling a''earan$e %n the eat "rans#er*S$reen'rint

Deat (ransfer 1reA1roduction (esting Requirements

RequirementsBe#%re 'r%)u$ti%n (egins, eat "rans#er trial test is )%ne t% assure the

$%m'ati(ility %# eat "rans#er an) #a(ri$ in a 'r%)u$ti%n envir%nment. "his

test is t% (e $%m'lete) against ea$h l%t an) $%l%r %# #a(ri$.

o A''ly eat "rans#er t% the $%mmer$ialie) #a(ri$ as 'er eat "rans#er

manu#a$turerNs instru$ti%ns.o Re$%r) eat "rans#er a''li$ati%n 'arameters )ire$tly %n the #a(ri$

al%ng ith ma$hine ty'e %r ma$hine num(era; eating Plate Pressure(; eating 'late tem'erature$; >ell time


26/29

1rocedure

eat "rans#er*S$reen 'rinte) garments an) gl%ves are laun)ere) t% the

la(ele) $are instru$ti%ns 3 times #%r either ma$hine %r han) ash

instru$ti%ns. Sele$t t% garments #r%m 'r%)u$ti%n #%r ash test sele$ti%n.

se %ne garment as a $%ntr%l sam'le #%r visual a''earan$e $%m'aris%nsan) the %ther t% are laun)ere).

&a$t%ry is re$%r)s the ash test 1n)ings. "he #%ll%ing items are in$lu)e)

in the evaluati%n9

a; 'verall aesthetics of transfer9 Art%r0, sie, $%l%r, sha)e,)esign, lay%ut, %r)ing, gra'hi$, P>M num(er here a''li$a(le

(; 1eelingH /-amine all $%rners, e)ges %# trans#er t% see anysym't%m %# 'eeling %H.

$; &olor migration>bleedingH Che$0 t% see any visi(ility %# #a(ri$$%l%r migrate) thr%ugh trans#er.

); &rackingH D%ti$e any $ra$0ing %n trans#er.e; =isible bonding borderH D%ti$e any %(vi%us (%n)ing (%r)er

ar%un) trans#er.#; 1late markH Che$0 t% see any n%ti$ea(le 'late mar0e) ar%un)

trans#er.g; tretching :#%r trans#er heate) %n stret$ha(le #a(ri$;9 %l) the

heate) 'anel at least 5$m #r%m nearest trans#er e)ge (%th si)es,stret$h it u' t% 357 %# its %riginal )imensi%n 3 times, release an)$he$0 i# any )e(%n)ing an)*%r $ra$0ing ha''ens. Re'eat this #%r%ther )ire$ti%n.

&auses for poor adhesiona; A''li$ati%n 'arameters n%t (eing #%ll%e) #%r tem'erature, 'ressure

an) )ell time.(; P%%r maintenan$e an) $ali(rati%n %# ma$hinery.$; +n$%rre$t ma$hinery use) #%r a''li$ati%n.); Carrier 'a'er rem%ve) t%% s%%n.e; neven heat 'late tem'erature.#; >irt un)er the heat 'late.g; Fl) heat trans#ersh; +m'r%'erly st%re), %r missing the $arrier 'a'eri; Dever teste) ith 'assing results

ewing "aintenance &hecklists


27/29

An area that C%lum(ia S'%rtsear is very $%n$erne) ith is the $%n)iti%n %#the seing O%%r an) %# the seing ma$hine (asi$ setu's an) maintenan$e. "hese )ire$tly im'a$t9

o Seam Quality, A''earan$e an) >ura(ility

o F'erat%r Pr%)u$tivity J /arningso Seing F'erat%r M%rale

o Manu#a$turing "hr%ughPut "ime

o Pr%)u$ts Pr%)u$e) May Reuire Greater +ns'e$ti%n

o igher C%sts an) 2%er Pr%1ts

o C%nsumer >issatis#a$ti%n

o 2%ss %# Bran)Dame Cre)i(ility

1reventative "aintenance

o Che$0 t% see i# the ma$hines are (eing 0e't $lean9

• Ma$hines are(l%n %H every )ay t% rem%ve lint an) trash.

• Fn l%$0stit$h ma$hines, the h%%0 are (l%n %H regularly )uring the

)ay t% 'revent lint %r )irt #r%m (uil)ing u' in the %il '%rts in the ra$e%# the h%%0.

o Che$0 t% see that the ma$hines are (eing lu(ri$ate) regularly9

• Fil levels are $he$0e) )aily an) a))iti%nal %il a))e) i# ne$essary.

• Ran)%mly $he$0 the %il levels in the ma$hines.

• igh uality hite ma$hine %il is use), that ill n%t stain.

•Che$0 availa(ility %# 'r%'er ma$hine %il in the #a$t%ry.

• Che$0 t% ma0e sure the %il is n%t $%ntaminate).

o Che$0 t% see that %il reserv%ir 'um' 1lters are $leane) regularly9

• +# $%m'resse) air is use), they ma0e sure the air system isregulate) 'r%'erly an) has humi)ity )ryers, 1lters, an) lu(ri$at%r inthe air lines.

• Che$0 #%r ruste) areas )ue t% e-$essive m%isture in 'r%)u$ti%n

area.o Che$0 ma$hines #%r ear %n $riti$al m%ving 'arts9

• Che$0 #%r sha0e in nee)le (ar )ue t% %rn nee)le (ar (ushings.

•

Che$0 #%r e-$essive m%vement in stit$h #%rming )evi$es, et$.• Che$0 $%n)iti%n %# $riti$al s$res9

• Che$0 #%r missing s$res.

• Che$0 #%r )e#e$tive s$res that are )i$ult t% tighten 'r%'erly.

• Che$0 $%n)iti%n %# me$hani$Ns t%%ls t% see that they are (eing

maintaine) 'r%'erly.Iith (utt%nh%le %r %ther s'e$ialie) eui'ment, $leaning %# the ma$hine isn%t )%ne ith $%m'resse) air (ut ith a s%#t (ristle (rush.


28/29

titch G eam .uality

2%$0stit$h seams9

o Che$0 t% see that the stit$h l%%0s the same %n (%th the t%' an) (%tt%m

%# the seam.o +# (a$0 ta$0ing is reuire), they ma0e sure the $%rre$t num(er %#

stit$hes are use) in the (a$0 ta$0.o Ma0e sure the 'r%'er SP+ are (eing use).

o Ma0e sure the $%rre$t seam all%an$e :margin; is (eing maintaine)

Chain stit$h seams9

o Ma0e sure the stit$h is (alan$e) 'r%'erly.

o Che$0 #%r e-$essive seam grinning.

o 2%%'er threa) sh%ul) r%ll %ver.

Fver e)ge seams9

o Che$0 #%r 'r%'er stit$h (alan$e.

o Che$0 #%r e-$essive seam grinning.

o Che$0 #%r 'r%'er seam e-tensi(ility %r stit$h el%ngati%n.

o Che$0 t% ma0e sure that the 'url is %n the e)ge %# the seam.

o Che$0 t% ma0e sure the 0nives are trimming the #a(ri$ $leanly.

o Che$0 t% ma0e sure the $%rre$t seam all%an$e :margin; is (eing

maintaine).o F(serve %'erat%r han)ling #%r e-$essive trim.

o +# lat$hta$0ing, ma0e sure the $hain is sen int% the seam 'r%'erly.

S0i''e) Stit$hes9

o Che$0 areas here #reuent s0i's have (een %(serve).

o F(serve here %ne seam $r%sses an%ther seam.

o Che$0 t% see i# the s0i' %$$urs %n thi$0ness %r a#ter thi$0ness.

&'$&%U)'$

A$$%r)ing t% the (uyerNs manual %# C%lum(ia s'%rtsear,

• "he (asi$ ins'e$ti%n $riteria is same as %ther #a$t%ries that is #%ur

'%int system #%r #a(ri$ ins'e$ti%n.

• "his manual als% 'r%vi)es a gui)e a(%ut hat are the reas%n #%r

$ertain )e#e$ts %r 'r%(lems in the 'r%)u$ts an) suggest the reme)ies.

• Pr%vi)es the instru$ti%n #%r the heat trans#er 'rinting an) the )e#e$ts

that $an (e ta0e 'la$e in 'rinting.


29/29

• Pr%vi)es the test re'%rt sam'les an) #%rms, hi$h ma0es it easy #%r(%th 'arties t% un)erstan) the $ertain re'%rt in $ertain #%rmat.

• Seam ta'e $%mmer$ialiati%n is als% there in manual hi$h is n%t

ne$essary.

• +t als% 'r%vi)es a (rie# a(%ut the )iHerent uality ins'e$ti%n '%ints an)

reuirement %# them t% maintain the uality.• >iHerent au)it #%rms are als% 'r%vi)e) in the manual.

• "he manual )%es n%t give a g%%) i)ea a(%ut sam'ling an) stages %#sam'ling hi$h sh%ul) (e there.

• Iith Sam'ling, Pa$0aging an) 2a(eling $riteria is als% n%t menti%ne).

Fverall the manual 'r%vi)es a (rie# a(%ut uality an) au)it an) test re'%rtsan) severe )e#e$ts regar)ing garment manu#a$turing.

buyer manual

Documents