WineMag.com | 1

BUYING GUIDEFEBRUARY 2013

2 BORDEAUX

30 RHÔNE

32 SOUTHERN ITALY

38 SICILY & SARDINIA

40 GERMANY

43 SPAIN

48 PORTUGAL

50 AUSTRALIA

52 ARGENTINA

56 CALIFORNIA

66 WASHINGTON

72 SPIRITS

74 BEER

FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM

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2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013

LEFT BANK RED BORDEAUX

MÉDOC

91 Château Preuillac 2010 Médoc. Sitting well above its place in the Bordeaux hierarchy,

Preuillac, owned by the Mau family, has produced a firmly structured 2010, bearing dense tannins as well as powerful fruit. It has a juicy element but needs many years to round out and show all of its considerable po-tential. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

90 Château Laffitte Laujac 2009 Médoc. For full review see page 8.

abv: 13.5% Price: $28

87 Château Laffitte Laujac 2009 L de Laf-fitte Laujac (Médoc). A blend of equal parts

Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this is already a well-balanced, ready-to-drink wine. It has dusty tannins sus-pended easily in the black currant flavor, while the dry core brings weight. Drink now or age for two years. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

87 Château Patache d’Aux 2010 Médoc. An ancient staging post for the coaches that plied

the Médoc, Patache d’Aux is now producing some fine rich wines with a sense of structure as well as fruit. This 2010 has full, sweet-tasting red fruit flavors, with firm tannins that promise to age over the next 3–4 years. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

86 Barton & Guestier 2010 Médoc. This is ini-tially a serious and structured wine, which sub-

sequently rounds out but always keeps the firm struc-

ture of its vintage. It hints at wood aging, plus black cur-rant freshness and tight acidity on the finish. Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

86 Bernard Magrez 2008 Château Tour Blanche (Médoc). The tendency for some

wines produced by Bernard Magrez to show too much hard wood is very pronounced here. After four years, this should be softening, but it still has a hard edge of smoky tannins. The red fruit flavor is chafing to come out, so try waiting for a few more years. Bernard Magrez USA. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $19

86 Les Hauts de Tousquiron 2010 Cuvée Lu-cie (Médoc). This rich, fruity wine has tannins

that are well submerged by the ripe, juicy black-plum flavor and acidity. It’s delicious now and is not for long-term aging. Stephen Augustus Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $28

HAUT-MÉDOC

93 Château Sénéjac 2010 Haut-Médoc. This chateau is under the same ownership as Saint-

Julien’s Château Talbot. The wine is firm, fruity, rich and concentrated, showing all the best qualities of 2010. There is a complex array of black fruits which are sus-tained by the firm, solid tannins. Age for at least 6–7 years. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Château Bernadotte 2010 Haut-Médoc. Strong new-wood aromas lead to a palate that is

layered with firm tannins, a polished toast character and a sufficient ripe blackberry flavor to balance. This 2010

bottling shows that this is a chateau to watch. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Château Cantemerle 2010 Haut-Médoc. A great success for this southern Médoc cha-

teau, this is fine, elegant and perfumed. It bursts with a black fruit flavor, balanced by smooth tannins and acid-ity. It’s a wine for medium-term aging over the next six years. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Château de Villegeorge 2010 Haut-Médoc . This fine, rich, fruity wine is from a

chateau controlled by the Lurton family. It is solid, con-centrated and dense, packed with blackberry flavor. De-liciously juicy now, it has the tannins and acidity that suggest it is capable of aging for many years. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Château Hanteillan 2010 Haut-Médoc. This is ripe and dense, with great tannins; opu-

lent, rich black fruit; and a fresh, juicy aftertaste. The structure and the solid texture both point to long-term aging. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Château Hourtin-Ducasse 2010 Haut-Médoc . This is an impressive, concentrated

wine that gives pride of place to the ripe berry flavors and the balancing acidity. Underneath, the tannins are built up, showing that the wine will age. With its weight and depth, this needs to be aged the tannins to fully soften. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

Continued on Page 11

FRANCE

Two great back-to-back Bordeaux vintages, 2009 and 2010, have left the Bordeaux wine trade and its customers divided. First came the lush, accessible, delicious wines of 2009. In the U.S., for critics and

consumers alike, it was love at first sip.Then came 2010, a structured, classic vintage, suitable for long aging.

Quickly, the Bordeaux trade proclaimed this to be the better vintage: “The wines are the most concentrated I have ever seen,” said Thomas Duroux of Château Palmer in Margaux during the barrel tastings in early 2011.

Charles Chevallier at Château Lafite Rothschild said simply: “The Cab-ernet is the most magnificent I have seen.” Less sure, American buyers were reluctant to commit, especially at the high prices demanded by the top chateau owners.

Now that the 2010 Bordeaux have been bottled and released, consum-ers can fairly compare the vintage with its lauded predecessor. The 2010s feature massive concentration, along with delicious, ripe fruit. Alcohol lev-els of 14% are common, and some wines are 15%. That’s a radical change

from a decade ago, when the abvs of the 2000 vintage rarely crept higher than 12.5% or 13%.

As the scores in this month’s Buying Guide indicate, 2010 looks great, a vintage to stand high in the pantheon of great Bordeaux vintages—almost certainly higher than 2009. While some prices remain steep, great quality is found among wines that represent the value tier.

This leaves us with a choice. While some of the 2009s are almost ready to drink, these 2010s will need to be cellared for much longer.

Although Bordeaux takes center stage in this issue’s Buying Guide— including reviews from vintages prior to 2010—we also give a nod to another iconic French region, the Rhône Valley. Elsewhere in Europe, we review the latest releases from southern Italy, Spain and Germany, as well as 2009 and 2010 vintage Ports. From the New World, check out reviews of the wines from Argentina and Australia, plus hundreds of wines from California and Washington.

Cheers! —RogeR Voss

2010: STRUCTURE AND CONCENTRATION FROM BORDEAUX

96 Goldschmidt 2007 Plus Game Ranch Sin-gle Vineyard Selection Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon (Oakville). A dramatic Cabernet, complex and layered, this shows deeply concentrated blackberry es-sence, black currant, dark chocolate and raisin flavors that are intricately woven with a sweet, smoky oak in-fluence. The tannic structure is thick and furry, but just about perfect. Should age for many years, gradually los-ing primary fruit, but it’s drinkable now after decant-ing. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $150

96 Zaca Mesa 2009 Black Bear Block Estate Grown and Bottled Syrah (Santa Ynez

Valley). If the first duty of a wine is to be delicious, this tiny production bottling succeeds beyond all mea-sure. The Black Bear Block is almost always Zaca Mesa’s best Syrah among its many releases, and so it is again in 2009. Take one sip and you’re dazzled by the refined tannins, dryness and complexity of flavors: blackberry, cassis, plum sauce, mocha, bacon, smoky oak, white pepper, chamomile tea and licorice. What’s harder to express is the sheer pleasure of the mouthfeel. This is an exciting Syrah, and may just be at the beginning of a long journey. Drink now and for many years as it slowly changes. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

95 La Follette 2010 Van der Kamp Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Mountain). A tremen-

dous wine, this appeals to the senses as well as the intel-lect. Dry, tart in acidity and somewhat tannic, it shows complex flavors of raspberry and cherry pie, bacon, cin-namon, white pepper and sandalwood. The finish goes on and on. So delicious now, you can hardly keep from drinking it, but this is a Pinot Noir that will age for 6–8

years, gradually losing primary fruit and gaining inter-esting mushroom and dried fruit notes. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

95 Tierra Roja 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). The vineyard is just east of the

Silverado Trail, below Dalla Valle and just up the street from Screaming Eagle. The wine, which is 100% Cabernet , shows the intensely concentrated, ripe fruit of this neighborhood, packed with flavors of black-berry preserves, cassis liqueur and a touch of chocolate, wrapped into fine tannins and brightened by acidity. Give it at least eight years in the cellar. Cellar Selec-tion. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $130

94 Cambria 2010 Estate Grown & Bottled Clone No. 4 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Val-

ley). Classic Cambria Pinot from the Santa Maria Val-ley, this is translucent in color, silky in texture and bone dry, yet unbelievably concentrated. Full bodied and warm in alcohol, it has massive flavors of cherry com-pote, cranberry, persimmon, sweet, smoky oak and crushed spice. It should age gracefully over the next six years. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $52

94 Feudi di San Gregorio 2007 Piano di Montevergine Riserva (Taurasi). This spe-

cial wine is aged for 18 months in oak and shows a mas-sively long and intense finish, with evolving notes of black fruit, ash, prune, spice, leather and bitter black chocolate. It showcases the hard work achieved by Feu-di di San Gregorio over the years. This should age for 10 years or more. Palm Bay International. Cellar Se-lection. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

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The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Editor Michael Schachner and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York, European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor Monica Larner in Rome, California Editor Steve Heimoff in Oakland, Contributing Editor Paul Gregutt in Seattle and Contributing Editor Virginie Boone in Santa Rosa.

If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following the note. When no initials appear following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits Reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo.

Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated.

TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALSAll tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted.

ABOUT THE SCORESRatings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics.

Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; often good value. Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- critical circumstances.

Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 points) are not reviewed.

SPECIAL DESIGNATIONSEditors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent

quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price with unique qualities that merit special attention.

Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated.

Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are generally priced at $15 or less.

SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEWProducts should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@wineenthusiast.net. There is no charge for submitting products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site.

LABELSLabels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax 866.896.8786; or email dvalenza@wineenthusiast.net.

Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at buyingguide.winemag.com

4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013

94 Larraín, Lasmartres Toso & Undurraga 2008 LTU

Malbec (Uco Valley). LTU is su-perconcentrated, black as night, min-erally, rich and wonderfully balanced. The palate is wide but well structured, while flavors of toasty oak, peppercorn and stirring black fruit are delicious. Toasty, chocolaty and macho to the last drop. Drink now–2016. Quintessential Wines. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14.8% Price: $52

93 Bokisch 2010 Tempranillo (Lodi). Bokisch has made a Tempranillo that’s relatively light

in body, bursting with an earthy tobacco tone, with a backbone of leather. The palate feels velvety, with soft but structured tannins, bearing black cherry and dark chocolate flavors. This has to be one of California’s best Tempranillos. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $21

93 Cambria 2010 Barbara’s Clone 667 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). This small-pro-

duction Pinot is ripe and intense. It immediately strikes you with the sheer opulence of its cherry and blueber-ry flavors. But the structure is immaculate, with pure, refined tannins, plus bright, zesty acids. It has a lot of alcohol, and the wine is a bit warm, but Pinot-friendly foods like steak and lamb will help to balance it. Drink now–2016. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $80

93 Feudi di San Gregorio 2009 Pàtrimo Mer-lot (Campania). One of the most important

expressions of Merlot from southern Italy, Pàtrimo is a soft and decadent wine, boasting an excellent qual-ity of ripe fruit that’s backed by pretty tones of crushed stone, lead pencil and Indian spice. The mouthfeel is rich, generous and long-lasting. Palm Bay International. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $105

93 Grgich Hills 2008 Miljenko’s Vineyard Estate Grown Petite Sirah (Napa Valley).

Grown in Calistoga, this is textbook Petite Sirah: It’s black as a moonless night, bone dry, intensely tannic and enormously packed in fruit. Those tannins really lock the wine down in astringency, but they can’t hide the massive burst of blackberry, cassis liqueur, mocha, crispy bacon and black pepper. Nowhere near ready to drink, it’s a wine to be cellared for 5–6 years, at the very least. It should glide through the decades effortlessly, gradually losing tannins and growing more clean and pure. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $55

93 Zaca Mesa 2009 Mesa Reserve Estate Grown and Bottled Syrah (Santa Ynez

Valley). This is consistently one of Zaca Mesa’s best Syr-ahs of several bottlings they produce every vintage. The mildly cool year was kind to the fruit, giving controlled blackberry and black currant flavors that are wrapped in refined tannins. The wine finishes with a swirl of smoke and peppery spice, plus a touch of warmth from the al-cohol. Drink now–2015. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $44

93 Zaca Mesa 2009 Estate Grown and Bot-tled Roussanne (Santa Ynez Valley).

Roussanne is really hard to pull off in California, but if anyone can do it, Zaca Mesa can. It’s as good as the 2007, showing nectarine, pear and tangerine flavors, with the creamy, yeasty complexities of a fine barrel-fermented Chardonnay. It’s dry and crisp in acidity and even has a fine, steely minerality. Drink now. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

92 Aiken 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (How-ell Mountain). Veteran winemaker Joel Aiken

marches to a different beat from today’s cult style, re-verting to an older expression of Napa Valley Cabernet. This one is bone dry, tannic and tightly wound in acids. It will not offer much pleasure now, even after decant-ing. It needs to be aged, and judging by the intense core of blackberries, cherries and minerals, it will easily ne-gotiate the next 10–15 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $75

92 Alto Moncayo 2009 Aquilon Garnacha (Campo de Borja). This is a powerful, rich,

toasty Garnacha, with grit, earth and spice galore on the bouquet. It feels tough, masculine and tannic, with a mix of beefy black-fruit flavors elevated by molasses and spice. Firm and showing some burn on the finish, along with notes of black licorice and peppery spice. Only 200 cases made. Drink now–2016. Jorge Ordoñez Selec-tions. —M.S. abv: 16% Price: $155

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92 D’Arenberg 2008 The Ironstone Pressings Grenache-Shiraz-Mourvèdre (McLaren

Vale). This Grenache-based blend derives consider-able structure from its Shiraz (38%) and Mourvèdre (7%) components, giving it more firmness, length and ageability than might be expected. Dark chocolate and berry aromas and flavors pick up hints of dried tobac-co and other herbs, ending on a crisp note. Give it two or three years, then drink it over the next 10–12. Old Bridge Cellars. Cellar Selection. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

92 Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier 2007 Lieu Dit Malakoff Shiraz (Pyrenees). This part-

nership continues to turn out marvelously complex wines from inland Victoria. Savory, herbal and intrigu-ing on the nose, with hints of raspberry, mushroom and smoked meat, this is a medium-bodied, supple wine. Dusty tannins impart a silky quality to the finish. Drink now–2018. Terlato Wines International. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

92 Dry Creek Vineyard 2008 Endeavour Cabernet Sauvignon (Dry Creek Valley).

Blended with splashes of Petit Verdot and Merlot, this Cabernet is rich, soft and smooth. The blackberry, cur-rant and chocolate flavors are at their full, primary ex-pression, and promise a long, evolving aging process in the years ahead. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

92 Feudi di San Gregorio 2010 Campanaro (Irpinia). The two grapes that represent the

pride of southern Italian winemaking—Fiano and Gre-co—are blended here to produce a creamy, rich white wine that will pair well with steamed lobster or crab. Beautifully balanced sensations of acidity and spice ap-pear on the long finish. Palm Bay International. Edi-tors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $33

92 Feudi di San Gregorio 2008 Taurasi. Dark and opulent, this has a modern touch, with soft

oak tones that support pretty notes of black cherry, dark chocolate, spice and tobacco. The mouthfeel is rich, toasted and delicious, with a long, dry finish. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $38

92 Gary Farrell 2009 Rochioli Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This

is the winery’s best Chardonnay, but that’s no surprise given its source: the famous Rochioli Vineyard. Right now, it’s dominated by new oak influence, with buttered toast, butterscotch and caramel flavors. But there’s an intense core of pineapples, oranges, green apples, nec-tarines and apricots, and the finish is absolutely dry. The vineyard’s minerality and the Russian River’s acidity provide balance. Give it until the summer of 2013, and then enjoy it for several more years. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $45

92 Kilikanoon 2008 Covenant Shiraz (Clare Valley ). This plush, fruit-driven style of Shi-

raz displays aromas that resemble a cross between Nil-la Wafers and graham crackers spread with berry pre-serves. The flavors follow along similar lines, under-scored by hints of chocolate and coffee on the lingering finish. Old Bridge Cellars. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

92 Muga 2006 Selección Especial (Rioja). Rich yet subdued on the bouquet, with elegant

tobacco, lemon peel and earthy scents, this feels lush and full of heft, but it’s not plodding or heavy. Flavors of spiced black fruit, molasses and tobacco are nice, and the finish features a long, dry, comfortable fade. Drink this winner now–2016. Jorge Ordoñez Selec-tions. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $43

92 Rochioli 2011 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This isn’t a long-term

ager, but do give it about a year in the bottle to let all of its parts meld together. Right now, it’s tight and oaky. It features intense, bright pineapple, green apple and or-ange flavors, with sweet barrel influences and a tenuous streak of acidity. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $46

6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013

92 Septima 2009 Gran Reserva (Mendoza). This comes out swinging, with bullish berry and

prune aromas that hint at being stewy but then pull back. It’s saturated and tannic but not rough, with black fruit, chocolate, toast and pepper flavors. Minty and dark, with a licorice note on the finish. Drink now–2016. Aveniù Brands, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

92 Tablas Creek 2010 Esprit de Beaucas-tel Blanc Grown & Bottled on the Es-

tate Roussanne-Grenache Blanc-Picpoul Blanc (Paso Robles). This is the priciest of Tablas Creek’s priciest of its three new white-Rhône-style releases. A blend of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Picpoul Blanc, it’s rich, dense and oaky. It shows ripe, concen-trated orange, mango and apricot flavors, enhanced by oaky notes, with fleshy weight and density. Not an ager, but a distinctive and enjoyable wine. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

91 Alto Moncayo 2009 Garnacha (Campo de Borja). Smoky, charred and minerally on the

nose, this has a balsamic berry aroma and lots of dark spice. It feels deep, pure and layered, with flavors of wild berry, toast, baked plum and dark spice. It finishes big, with hints of rubber, blackberry and lasting spice. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 16% Price: $45

91 Baron De Ley 2005 Gran Reserva (Rioja). Quite earthy and nutty on the nose, this fea-

tures scents of leather, peanut, licorice and raisin. The mouthfeel is smooth, steady and layered, with dry plum, raspberry and plenty of spice and toast. It turns mostly toward tobacco and vanilla on the finish. Very nice and friendly; drink now–2017. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

91 Bodega Catena Zapata 2010 Catena Alta Estate Rows Chardonnay (Mendoza).

Among Argentinean Chardonnays, Catena’s Alta is among the very best. This vintage supplies toasty apple, pear and banana aromas in front of a fresh, full-bod-ied palate that’s clean, pure and Burgundian in charac-ter. Flavors of baked apple, oak and spice lead to a long finish. Drink now–2014. Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $35

91 Bokisch 2010 Belle Colline Vineyard Monastrell (Clements Hills). Bokisch’s

100% Monastrell is brooding with dark fruit—black cherries, currants and blackberries. It shows a cinna-mon-swirled earth note and a layer of herb, with me-dium body. As such, it would be a beautiful wine with roasted meats like lamb or chicken that are swaddled in herbs or anise. The tannins are soft but structured enough to age. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $21

91 Bokisch 2010 Terra Alta Vineyard Garna-cha (Clements Hills). This has 10% Monas-

trell in the mix, and it is a sublime example of what fla-vors of baked raspberry compote, cranberry and black licorice can do when allowed to mingle together in liq-uid form. Medium in body, this has a lot of earthiness. It would make a fine alternative to more expensive Pi-nots. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

91 Château Cap Léon Veyrin 2010 Listrac-Médoc. Smooth and rich, this showcases both

the structure and ripe black fruits of the vintage. It has wood-aging flavors, with a touch of caramel and fine acidity. This is for medium- to long-term aging. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $30

91 Llopart 2006 Leopardi Brut Nature (Cava). This luxury Cava is entirely clean and

pure on the bouquet. The palate is bright, lifted and zesty for a 2006, with apple, dry spice and lingering cit-rus notes. The body is defined by its yeasty weight and foam but it’s not heavy or dull. Only 100 cases of this beauty were made. Drink now–2015. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $40

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91 Viu Manent 2008 ViBo Malbec (Mendo-za). Blueberry, boysenberry, minty oak and

leather are the key aromas of this full-force Malbec. ViBo emerges with focus and power; it’s delivering a truck load’s worth of firm berry flavor, finishing dry and alert, with chocolate and herb notes. Drink now–2016. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $42

91 Zaca Mesa 2010 Estate Grown and Bot-tled Viognier (Santa Ynez Valley). This is

Zaca Mesa’s best Viognier in at least 10 years. Dry and crisp in zesty acidity, with a firm minerality, it avoids the variety’s exotic side, offering streamlined, complex fla-vors of citrus fruit, Asian pear, peach and white pepper. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

91 Zaca Mesa 2009 Estate Grown and Bot-tled Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). This is soft,

smooth and refined, with rich, complex blackberry, cas-sis, bacon, pepper and smoky cedar flavors. Good as it is, it will develop bottle complexities over the next eight years. Almost as good as Zaca Mesa’s more expensive Syrahs. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

90 Alto Moncayo 2009 Veraton Garna-cha (Campo de Borja). This is intense for

Garnacha , with piercing berry, spice and heat to the bouquet. This is a big, burly type of modern Garnacha, with a streak of boosting acidity. Flavors of plum, berry and cherry finish long and slightly raisiny. Big and bruis-ing but still well balanced. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 15.5% Price: $25

90 Bodega NQN 2007 Malma Universo Blend (Patagonia ). This Malbec-Cabernet

blend hits the spot aromatically, delivering rock- solid black fruit and toasty oak scents. It feels rich, with chewy tannins and rooty-tasting berry and chocolate fla-vors. Smooth and easygoing, perhaps a touch soft on the finish. Drink now–2014. Vias Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

90 Cambria 2010 Estate Grown & Bottled Clone No. 115 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria

Valley). This is a silky, gentle Pinot Noir, redolent of cherry, raspberry, cola, exotic spice and toast. It’s com-plex, revealing layers of interest as it warms in the glass. Will provide fine drinking over the next few years. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $52

90 Cerro Prieto 2009 El Bordo Reserve Syr-ah (Paso Robles). This is as rich and hedo-

nistic as anything in California. It’s like drinking an elixir of milk chocolate and blackberry jam, sprinkled with cinnamon and black pepper and infused with vanilla bean. But beware: the high alcohol goes to your head fast. —S.H. abv: 16.8% Price: $39

90 Château Canon 2005 Canon-Fronsac. Just hinting at maturity, this rich and stylish

wine features finely balanced tannins, a juicy blackberry flavor and fruity ripeness. Using fruit sourced from the small appellation of Canon-Fronsac, on the hill close to Saint-Émilion, this wine is ready to drink and is full of flavor, with concentration on the finish. L&C Wine Country Operations, LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $40

90 Château Haut Selve 2009 Graves. This wine exhibits the generosity from the ripe 2009

vintage. It has rich, full and round fruits, with a pleasing black currant flavor and tannic edge. Juicy, with a dust-textured aftertaste, this will age for 4–5 years. Baron Francois Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013

90 Château Laffitte Laujac 2009 Médoc. A smooth, wood-aged wine from the northern part

of the Médoc, this shows mint and spice notes as well as a ripe black-plum flavor. Made in a style that features softened tannins, this is a complex and concentrated wine that will benefit from an additional 2–3 years in the cellar. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $28

90 D’Arenberg 2008 The Dead Arm Shiraz (McLaren Vale). Concentrated and intense,

this wine features a potent whack of oak on the nose, with dark fruit and mocha overtones. There are enough hints of bright, raspberry-tinged fruit to warrant opti-mism about its aging trajectory, but at the moment it is dark, heavy and slightly scorched. Try after 2017. Old Bridge Cellars. Cellar Selection. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

90 Feudi di San Gregorio 2010 DUBL Agli-anico (Campania). Here’s a pearl for spark-

ling wine lovers. This bubbly rosato is made from the hearty Aglianico grape, usually reserved for one of Italy’s most austere and masculine red wines. Yet here the variety shows a delicate, soft side with notes of wild berry and creamy almond paste. Palm Bay Internation-al. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $43

90 Re Manfredi 2008 Aglianico del Vulture. An opulent red wine, this has dark aromas of

bitter chocolate, prune, plum, blackberry, tobacco, spice and rum cake. It shows plump, round extraction in the mouth, which helps soften the variety’s tannins. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $37

89 Bodegas Bilbainas 2006 Viña Pomal Reserva (Rioja). Dill, vanilla, tobacco, earth

and light red-fruit aromas comprise the classic nose. The palate feels tight and in good shape, while a mild berry flavor comes topped with touches of cardamom, cinnamon and nutmeg, expressing Rioja in every way. Elegant and balanced; drink now. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $21

89 Feudi di San Gregorio 2011 Fiano di Avellino. Feudi di San Gregorio consistently

does a terrific job with the Fiano grape. The producer finds a magical way of extracting the grape’s pear, citrus and peach aromas. Mineral and talc powder sensations are there as well. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $20

89 Feudi di San Gregorio 2011 Ros’Aura (Ir-pinia). Ros’Aura is one of the most delightful

rosatos to come from southern Italy. It’s a concentrat-ed bright pink color, with fresh aromas of wild berry and pink grapefruit. Palm Bay International. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

89 Marqués de Riscal 2006 Reserva (Rioja). This wine is the epitome of traditional Rioja

Reserva. It opens with aromas of citrus peel, tobacco, earth, cherry, smoke and rubber. Fresh and medium in body, it has oak-based flavors of vanilla and spice on top of reedy red fruit. Oak persists on the finish. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17

89 Napa by N.A.P.A. NV Michael’s Red (Napa Valley). Made from Cabernet Sauvignon, San-

giovese, Barbera and a few other varieties, this is dry and complex. It has cherry, plum, red licorice, spice and cedar flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $25

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88 Feudi di San Gregorio 2011 Greco di Tufo. This producer has a magic touch with its

white wines, and this fresh Greco di Tufo is no excep-tion. Mineral nuances are enhanced by notes of stone fruit, honey and citrus. A dusty touch of talcum powder appears on the close. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $20

88 Feudi di San Gregorio 2011 Rubrato Agli-anico (Irpinia). Rubrato is a midlevel Agliani-

co that offers an easy, approachable interpretation of one of Italy’s most powerful grape varieties. This shows pretty accents of spice and dark fruit. Palm Bay Inter-national. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

88 Plungerhead 2011 Old Vine Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). This is rich and spicy in

briary, brambly flavors, with notes of wild cherry and blackberry, plus a wonderful summer-herb quality of nettle and fresh anise. Despite the big tannins, it’s vel-vety smooth. This barbecue wine contains a few drops of Petite Sirah and Tannat for complexity. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

88 Tablas Creek 2011 Patelin de Tablas Blanc Grenache Blanc-Viognier-Rous-

sanne-Marsanne (Paso Robles). A wonderful Rhône-style blend, this is easy to drink and versatile enough to pair with a wide range of foods. It shows or-ange marmalade, vanilla, spice and oak flavors that are crisp, clean and delicious now. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

87 Allure NV Bubbly Peach (California). With sweet-tasting flavors of ripe summer peach and

vanilla, this is made crisp and clean with slight carbon-ation. Bronco Wine Co. —S.H. abv: 10% Price: $15

87 Feudi di San Gregorio 2011 Falanghina (Sannio). This bright Falanghina offers cit-

rus, green apple, honey and melon aromas, with a fresh, zesty finish. Pair this with spaghetti alle vongole. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $16

BEST BUYS

90 Jean-Michel Cazes 2011 Michel Lynch Sauvignon Blanc (Bordeaux Blanc). A

creamed apple flavor gives this wine a warm, rich feel. Its weight matches its touch of minerality. Toward the end, a tropical character emerges, adding an exotic, ripe feel. Esprit du Vin. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

89 Condes de Albarei 2011 Albariño (Rías Baixas). This is more than admirable for a

100,000-case, widely available Albariño. Apple, lime and mineral aromas set up a cutting, citrus-driven pal-ate, with crisp, narrow flavors of lemon and green apple. A touch pithy on the finish, which is long and minerally. Colección Internacional del Vino. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $12

89 Philippe Borlais 2010 Tête du Rhône (Côtes du Rhône). A terrific value, Borlais’s

white is subtle and floral on the nose, then full bodied, broad and weighty on the palate, with flavors of melon, pineapple and a dry, stony note that lingers on the fin-ish. Drink now. A.W. Direct. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013

BEST BUYS

88 Castellví de la Marca NV Santa Monica Brut (Cava). This smells toasted and heady,

with a baked apple aroma. The mouthfeel is full, while the flavors tend toward citrus and pith. Solid on the fin-ish. Atlas Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $10

88 Schröder & Schyler 2010 Chartron La Fleur Merlot-Cabernet (Bordeaux). Ripe

and juicy, this wine melds red berry and black currant flavors easily into its dry texture. A deliciously ripe wine, it feels soft and forward; it will likely be ready to drink in six months. Cutting Edge Selections. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $12

87 Baron Philippe de Rothschild 2011 Mou-ton Cadet (Bordeaux Blanc). Full bodied

and rich, this has flavors of apple and lemon, with a warm and ripe feel that is balanced by a final mineral character. It needs several months to come together. Constellation Brands, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $10

BEST BUYS

87 Bodegas Valdemar 2011 Tempranillo (Rioja). Wild berry, cherry and mint notes are

what you’ll find on this wine’s open, likable bouquet. The feel is clean and crisp, with snappy wild-berry and plum flavors that crackle with finishing acidity and con-trolled tannins. CIV/USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

87 Fat Cat 2011 Moscato (California). This is a perfect example of why Moscato is so popular.

What’s not to like, with the crisp, clean mouthfeel and seemingly sweet flavors of honey, orange and vanilla? So zesty, it’s impossible not to drink a few glasses, and the alcohol is refreshingly low. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 10% Price: $10

87 Thorny Rose 2009 Red Blend (Colum-bia Valley). This is a pleasing blend of Merlot

and Cabernet Sauvignon, with tiny additions of Malbec and Syrah. It has a toasty flavor like coffee cake—think breakfast pastries, dusted with a mix of cinnamon and brown sugar. Toss in a cup of espresso and a splash of cassis, and you have a handle on the wine. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $11

BEST BUYS

86 Château Les Ancres 2009 Bordeaux. This is a solidly structured wine, with dry tannins

that power through the acidity and black currant flavor. There is a sense of concentration, and the juicy acidity layers over the dark, dense character. Bourgeois Family Selections. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

86 Feudi del Pisciotto 2010 Baglio del Sole Nero d’Avola (Sicilia). Baglio del Sole offers

simple berry aromas, with light touches of almond and spice. It shows lean, compact qualities on the palate that would pair with pasta or pizza. Vias Imports. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

86 Thorny Rose 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). This shares some of the

same coffee cake flavors as its companion, the Thorny Rose Red Blend, but here the flavors of stems and earth are a bit more evident. It also comes with a nice lick of black cherry flavor. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $11

WineMag.com | 11

BEST BUYS

85 Château de Seguin 2011 Sauvignon de Seguin (Bordeaux Blanc). This is definite-

ly herbaceous, with gooseberry and citrus flavors and a crisp, cool feel. It dances lightly on the palate with vibrant acidity. Plume Ridge Negociants. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

84 J. Garcia Carrion NV Opera Prima Spar-kling Moscato (Spain). Lychee, honeydew

and cotton candy aromas precede the easy, not-too-serious palate, which offers candied citrus, melon, pine-apple and powdered sugar flavors. Clean on the finish and crafted for those who like sweet-tasting, simple wines. CIV/USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 7% Price: $8

SPIRITS BEST BUYS

94 Sheep Dip Malt Whisky (Scotland; Freder-ick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY). The

silly name of this delicious, hard-to-put-down blended Scotch supposedly is derived from the days “when farm-ers hid their home-made whisky from the nosey excise officers in barrels marked ‘Sheep Dip.’ ” Made with a blend of 16 single malts from the four major whisky re-gions, this has an intense apple aroma and flavor, over-laid with a faint curl of smoke. The earthy smokiness grows on the finish, with intriguing dry and savory notes, like baker’s chocolate and brine. Pair this with crumbly aged cheeses. Best Buy.abv: 40% Price: $45

SPIRITS BEST BUYS

92 Real Russian (USA: Premiere Distillery, Gurnee, IL). This

small-batch U.S. wheat vodka is handcraft-ed by a third-generation Russian distiller, using an heirloom family recipe. The end result is clean, with zingy citrus and pine notes, almost like a superlight gin. Brisk and well-balanced, this would work well in a wide range of cocktails. Best Buy.abv: 40% Price: $20

CORRECTIONS

On page 35 of the December 31, 2012 issue, we cred-ited Jason McGrady for the Duck á l’Orange cocktail. Christopher Givens created the cocktail.

On page 138 of the December 31, 2012 issue, we incor-rectly identified a wine as a blanc de blancs. The correct information is as follows:

90 Caraccioli 2007 Brut Cuvée (Santa Lucia Highlands). This sparkling wine, a blend of

60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir, is dry, creamy and rich in flavors of citrus, yeast and vanilla . It feels refined and silky on the palate, with a honeyed finish. —S.H. abv: 12% Price: $52

92 Château Paloumey 2010 Haut-Médoc. This big, concentrated effort is currently closed, but

it’s already hinting at ripe black fruits, solid tannins and a long future. On the finish, acidity and a black currant note give the wine a final lift. Keep this for at least five years. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

91 Bernard Magrez 2010 Château Gramond (Haut-Médoc). This is a rich wine still dominat-

ed by solid, firm and dry tannins. Its black and red fruits are ripe and juicy, and its freshness comes from acidity that appears on the finish. Age this balanced effort for 4–5 years, at least. Bernard Magrez USA. Cellar Selec-tion. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

91 Bernard Magrez 2010 Château Moulin d’Ulysse (Haut-Médoc). This small 24-acre

property has produced a powerful, rich 2010 that layers its big black-plum flavor with complex tannins and wood notes. Dry and firm, it is still defiantly young and needs several years to round out. Bernard Magrez USA. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $29

91 Château Belgrave 2010 Haut-Médoc. As Belgrave improves each year, it reveals a charac-

ter that is close to the elegance and style of Saint-Julien, right next door. This 2010, while dense, is balanced, and its rich blackberry flavor is already integrating into its firm tannins. This should age well for the medium term. Thiénot USA. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $60

91 Château Cambon la Pelouse 2010 Haut-Médoc. This shows something of Margaux’s—

the neighboring appellation—delicacy, allied with firm, dry tannins. It has the dense structure and ripeness char-acteristic of the vintage, with a rich black-fruit flavor and acidity. It’s a wine for long-term aging. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

91 Château de Braude 2010 Haut-Médoc. From the southern part of the Haut-Médoc, this

effort is rich and rounded, full of black fruits and sweet tannins. It is well balanced, with its acidity and smoky fla-vors coming through slowly as the wine opens. Age this over many years. William Harrison Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $17

91 Château de Gironville 2010 Haut-Médoc. Gironville is in the southern Haut-Médoc, close

to Margaux, and is capable of producing the same style of wine—open and not overly tannic. At the same time, the black currant fruit is present, concentrated and already juicy. This shows fine potential, so keep it for the next 4–5 years. Signature Selections. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

91 Château Lamothe Bergeron 2010 Haut-Médoc. Dark in color, this is a concentrated

wine that’s very firm in structure, with dense tannins. It’s powered by ripe, mature black fruits as well as acids that cut through the dry texture. This needs several years of aging. K&L Wine Merchants. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013

91 Château Landat 2009 Haut-Médoc. There is a fine mineral texture to this structured, firm

wine from the northern Haut-Médoc. It also has ripe fruit and a richly tannic character, with flavors of black plum juice and berry. Dominated by Cabernet Sauvi-gnon, this will age over several years. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20

91 Château Liversan 2010 Haut-Médoc. Liversan is the flagship of the properties owned

by the Lapalu family. In 2010 it has produced a com-plex, tannic and dark-fruit-driven wine that is full, ripe and solidly structured. Rich, with a dry core, it has the potential to age for at least 5–6 years. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20

91 Château Malescasse 2010 Haut-Mé-doc. Located in the heart of the Haut-Médoc,

close to Lamarque, Malescasse is capable of produc-ing sweet-tasting, friendly wines, such as this 2010. It’s bright, fruity and layered with acidity, and the firm tan-nins show through slowly, offering power and density for the medium-term. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

91 Château Ramage la Batisse 2010 Haut-Médoc. Ramage la Batisse, which as of 2012

is 50 years old, is beginning to show the potential of its vineyard near Pauillac. This 2010 tastes rich and sweet-ly fruity, while its acidity supports firm tannins and ripe, jammy black-fruit flavors. It’s for medium-term aging over the next 4–5 years. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Château Beaumont 2010 Haut-Médoc. The greatly improved Beaumont, under the

same ownership as Château Beychevelle in Saint-Julien , has produced a full-bodied, rich wine, which is weighty and packed with serious fruits and tannins. It shows an attractive, black-currant-driven side, but it remains a wine for aging. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Château Bellegrave du Poujeau 2008 Haut-Médoc. A small 10-acre vineyard close

to the city of Bordeaux city has created a structured 2008, which is now beginning to mature. The black cur-rant flavor is still dominant, but it has been joined by ripe, soft tannins and a delicious, refreshing layer of acidity, lifted by an herbal edge. Age for another year, but also drink now. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $65

90 Château d’Agassac 2010 Haut-Médoc. The vineyards of the beautiful medieval chateau

of d’Agassac have produced a firmly structured, fruity, black-currant-flavored wine. It’s fragrant and packed with acidity, boasting tannins that suggest aging over many years. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Château Fontesteau 2010 Haut-Médoc. This is a firm wine, showing the tannins of

the vintage while also bringing out ripe fruit to bal-ance. It shows tense acidity with a juicy edge and fol-lows through with a sense of potential richness. This has

all the elements for good aging. Lemma Wine Co Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25

90 Château Landat 2008 Vieilles Vignes (Haut-Médoc). Made using fruit selected

from old vines, this is a concentrated effort that strad-dles the old-style Bordeaux and the modern, fruit-driv-en type. The tannins are firm and dry, which dominate the black currant flavor, and the acidity is crisp and plentiful. It’s a wine that is aging slowly and will repay several more years of aging. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

90 Château le Chêne 2010 Haut-Médoc. Smooth and ripe, this is a finely balanced wine.

New wood shows in the mint flavor, which is surround-ed by a black currant note, plus fresh acids and tannins that promise aging. From the north of the Haut-Médoc, this is a chateau to watch. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $18

90 Château Lieujean 2010 Haut-Médoc. There is a fine sense of structure in this dense

and solid effort. It has both a juicy black-currant note and a full-bodied, concentrated texture. Showing the richness as well as the dry core of 2010, it is ready to age over several years. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20

90 Château Peyrabon 2010 Haut-Médoc. From a property owned by Patrick Bernard of

négociant Millésima, this shows the results of consid-erable investment during the recent years. The wood dominates at this early stage, but it also shows complex fruit to balance the spice and toast flavors. Millésima USA. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Château Pontoise Cabarrus 2010 Haut-Médoc. Perfumed new-wood aromas give this

wine a toasty start. On the palate, the fruit is evident, showing luscious red-plum and black currant flavors. There are attractive notes of toast and pepper as the wine smoothes out on the palate. Stacole Fine Wines. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $19

90 Château Puy Castera 2010 Haut-Médoc. This shows firm tannins and a dense structure

that comes from the Malbec and Petit Verdot in the blend. It is full and spicy, with a flavor of black plum juice and a round texture on the finish. It’s likely to age well over at least six years. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Château Saint Ahon 2010 Haut-Médoc. While this is certainly a structured wine, it also

has generous, full and ripe fruit flavors of black plum and berry, plus firm tannins and acidity. Saint Ahon, in the southern part of the Haut-Médoc, is showing great promise with this wine. House Of Burgundy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $23

90 Château Sénilhac 2009 Haut-Médoc. A wine that is just getting into its stride, this has

ripe black fruits under its firm-yet-sweet tannins. The

combination means the wine is both rich and struc-tured, layering the tannins and fruit with acidity. Pow-erful and concentrated, this should age for 4–5 years. Serge Doré Selections. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

89 Bernard Magrez 2004 Château la Tem-perance (Haut-Médoc). Now mature, this is

a powerful wine for the vintage. It has a spice note, plus tannins that are still present and likely to develop fur-ther. The flavors of truffle, gamy beef and beet are are testaments to the age of this wine. It needs to be con-sumed over the next year. Bernard Magrez USA. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $21

89 Château Bel-Orme Tronquoy de Lalande 2010 Haut-Médoc. The Quié family, owners

of Crozet-Bages in Pauillac and Rauzan-Gassies in Mar-gaux, live in this northern Haut-Médoc property. The 2010 is closed, firmly tannic and solidly structured. It feels chunky, and its black plum flavor is tightly packed. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

89 Château Belle-Vue 2010 Haut-Médoc. Dark in color—partly from the blend’s 20% Pe-

tit Verdot—this wood-aged wine is laden with an ex-tracted toast flavor and tannins. It is very concentrat-ed, with a flavor of black plum skin and berry-like acid-ity that contribute to its density. Signature Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

89 Château Bibian 2009 Haut-Médoc. A firm and concentrated wine, this is dark and full bod-

ied. It shows the superripe fruit produced by the 2009 vintage. Attractively full and juicy, it has extra weight and a dark chocolate flavor, plus a spicy finish. Age for 2–3 years. Leonard Kreusch. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $23

89 Château Citran 2010 Haut-Médoc. This wine features bright red fruits, with attractive

tannins and a gentle, ripe character. It’s dense, while not at all powerful, fruity or very forward. Keep for 4–5 years. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

89 Château Lamothe-Cissac 2008 Vieilles Vignes (Haut-Médoc). The reserve wine

from Lamothe-Cissac is now a wine that is well on the way to maturity. It has a leathery texture that’s well inte-grated with wood and mushroom flavors. The acidity is just in the background. Drink now or over the next 3–4 years. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $39

89 Château Laride 2009 Haut-Médoc. A rich, fruity wine, this shows a jammy blackberry fla-

vor, with just the right balancing acidity. Wood aging lends this wine a polished feel, and the tannins are com-fortably cushioned by the ripe fruit. It has the richness of the vintage while still maintaining elegance. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20

89 Château Larose-Trintaudon 2010 Haut-Médoc. One of the largest Médoc proper-

ties, this chateau always produces a reliable wine that

WineMag.com | 13

is ready to drink soon. Soft and already approachable, the 2010 is no exception. Ripe tannins and a blackberry flavor meld into a round finish —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

89 Château Maucamps 2010 Haut-Médoc. This fruity wine has attractive acidity and a live-

ly black-currant note. The brightness on the surface masks the wine’s firmly tannic structure, although it’s the fruitiness and forward nature of the wine that will provide the most pleasure. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

89 Clos la Bohème 2010 Haut-Médoc. By Médoc standards, this 7-acre vineyard is small,

with a production of 1,150 cases. The powerful black-berry flavor is sweetened by dark plum and licorice notes, structured with new wood influence and firm tannins. There is a juicy finish, and the tannins promise long-term aging. Chartrand Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $42

88 Château Belgrave 2009 Diane de Bel-grave (Haut-Médoc). Already deliciously

fruity, this is a big, ripe, black-fruit-dominated wine. To balance the black currant flavor, there is a fine sense of structure, which offers a dry edge along with final acid-ity. Dourthe USA. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $23

88 Château Dillon 2010 Haut-Médoc. The home of the Bordeaux agricultural school could

be expected to produce an exemplary wine. That’s the case with this vintage of Château Dillon, a textbook ex-posé of the structure of the vintage, with acidity and an intense black-currant flavor. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

88 Château la Tonnelle 2009 Haut-Médoc. This tannic and extracted wine shows touches

of burnt wood and solid, dry tannins. It misses the gen-erously fruity feel of the vintage, replacing it with a firm, tight character. It needs several years. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

88 Château Reynats 2010 Haut-Médoc. Lean and rather austere, this is a classically severe

wine. Its tannins dominate, which indicates that it needs to age, and only slowly do the tight black-currant flavor and acidity show. This is a wine from the old school, needing several years to mature. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

88 Château Sorbey 2010 Haut-Médoc. A mix of tight black-currant flavor, juicy acidity and a

firm tannins appear in this concentrated wine. Along-side its fruit, there is a touch of licorice that adds a bit-ter tone to the wine. It needs a few years to soften out. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $15

87 Château Cissac 2010 Haut-Médoc. This is a dark, concentrated effort that shows its wood

strongly. The tannins are firm and almost heavy, produc-ing a wine that is intensely dry and will need many years to age. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

87 Château du Taillan 2010 Haut-Médoc. This big and fruity wine is immediately ap-

proachable, showing tannins that are already well inte-grated into the red berry flavors. With such accessibility, this is meant for short- to medium-term aging. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

87 Château Fonsèche 2009 Haut-Médoc. Much of the sweet-tasting fruit of 2009 is pres-

ent in this wine, while it simultaneously features a firm core of tannins. The bright acidity is reminiscent of fresh black currants. Juicy, fruity and likely to age quick-ly. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $16

87 Château Lamothe-Cissac 2009 Haut-Médoc . Rich and dense, ripe and juicy, this is

full of black fruits. It is smooth on the surface while sol-idly tannic underneath. This is an opulent wine, with a dry, wood-driven finish. Keep it for at least six years. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $26

87 Château Peyredon Lagravette 2010 Haut-Médoc. This rich and dense wine is packed

with dark tannins. Its wood and juicy fruit show signs of firm extraction, giving it a bitter edge. At the same time, its dense structure promises medium-term aging. Polaner Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $32

86 Château Caronne Sainte-Gemme 2010 Haut-Médoc. High acidity is combined with

ripe fruit to produce a tense, full-bodied wine. At this stage, the fruit has not yet integrated with the dry tan-nins. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

86 Château du Moulin Rouge 2010 Haut-Médoc. Spicy, creamy new-wood aromas in-

troduce a wine that is heavily dominated by woody tan-nins. The wine is very dry, its fruit a mere whisper in the background. Give this five years and the fruit may come forward, though that’s not a guarantee. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

85 Château Magnol 2010 Haut-Médoc. The headquarters of Bordeaux négociant Barton &

Guestier has produced a soft, ready-to-drink wine. It’s attractive, ripe and rich, and it’s full of juicy blackberry fruit. Drink now. Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $25

SAINT-ESTÈPHE

94 Château Lilian Ladouys 2010 Saint-Estèphe . Obviously wood-aged, with a smoky

toast flavor, this is a wine that shows the power of Saint-Estèphe tannins in full force. At the same time, there is a blackberry character that adds richness and juiciness, which cuts through the dry core. Age for at least 7–8 years. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $35

93 Château Lafon Rochet 2010 Saint-Estèphe . With the release of this hugely tan-

nic wine, this serious chateau—under the direction of

the Tesseron family, which also owns Château Pontet-Canet—continues its recent upward progress. The structure currently hides opulent fruit that holds great promise for the future. With both power and richness, there’s a long life ahead. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Château les Ormes de Pez 2010 Saint-Estèphe. Although this wine has tannins, it’s

the fruit that shines, with its delicious black-currant fla-vor and acidity. It is more fine and elegant than it is pow-erful, a pleasant surprise from Saint-Estèphe in this vin-tage For medium-term aging. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Château de Pez 2010 Saint-Estèphe. This firmly tannic wine boasts solid structure and

density. It has powerful concentration, due to very low yields. The fruit is ripe, driven by notes of black plum and berry. This is a wine with a long-term future. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Château Laffitte Carcasset 2010 Saint-Estèphe. There is no mistaking the firm tan-

nins of Saint-Estèphe in this wine. At the same time, these tannins are balanced with the generous ripe fla-vor of black fruit and almost-sweet acidity. The prop-erty was created by Joseph Laffitte in 1759, right in the center of the Saint-Estèphe plateau. Chateau Direct. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

92 Château Phélan-Ségur 2010 Saint-Estèphe . The best wine from Phélan Ségur for

several years, this shows less of the often-intrusive new wood and more of the fruit that had been missing in past vintages. It shows a subtle level of toast and a black currant flavor, plus great acidity and freshness on the finish. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Château Sérilhan 2010 Saint-Estèphe. This firmly tannic wine, characteristic of Saint-

Estèphe, is very dry. Underneath the dryness, there is a delicious, opulent juiciness that brings out black currant and plum flavors. It’s obviously a wine for the long haul; keep for at least six years. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Edi-tors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

91 Château Beau-Site 2010 Saint-Estèphe. This structured, concentrated wine is from an

estate in the north of Saint-Estèphe. A dominance of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend lends it firm, solid tan-nins as well as a juicy black-currant note. It’s a wine for long-term aging; don’t drink before 7–8 years. Borie-Manoux. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $41

91 Château Cos Labory 2010 Saint-Estèphe. This wine seems like it’s all structure at this

stage, firmly tannic and dry. Very solid and chunky, it is hiding its potentially rich fruit, which will show once the intense tannins soften, but the wine will likely always be severe. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013

90 Château Tour de Pez 2010 Saint-Estèphe. This deep-colored wine has the alcohol and firm

tannins to match its hue. It’s very dense and structured, but it also plays up the ripe blackberry fruits. Give it many years to soften out. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

PAUILLAC

97 Château Pichon Longueville 2010 Pauil-lac. This is quintessential Pauillac, a great wine

with its Cabernet proudly at the fore. It ranks with the 2009 and, with its tannins, is sure to age longer than that vintage. Solidly structured, powerful and dense, with fruit promised for the future, it succeeds with its weight and great concentration. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

96 Château Lynch-Bages 2010 Pauillac. This sumptuous wine is driven by perfectly ripe fruit

as well as dense, dusty and dry tannins. Great swathes of blackberry sweep across the palate, followed by juicy acidity. Such a combination will make this impressive wine a delight to drink in 10 years and beyond. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

96 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 2010 Pauillac. With signs of new

wood on the palate, this is a wine that maintains the pol-ished feel of the wines from Pichon Lalande. It has a stronger presence of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend than in the past, making it more structured than its pre-decessors, with a dominance of black currant flavor. It shows the soft side of the vintage, but is also meant for aging. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

94 Château Batailley 2010 Pauillac. With ad-vice from consultant and Bordeaux University

professor Denis Dubourdieu, Batailley has improved immensely in the past few years. This 2010 reinforc-es that trend, revealing a wine that is structured with Cabernet Sauvignon and is attractive with black currant fruitiness. Age for the medium-term. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $89

94 Château Clerc-Milon 2010 Pauillac. Con-firming its place in the firmament of Pauil-

lac greats, Clerc Milon’s 2010 has huge density, and is packed with dark tannins and blackberry flavor. It has a delicious freshness that cuts right through, lifting the concentration. With its tannins, this promises long-term aging. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Château Fonbadet 2010 Pauillac. This is a wine with great potential, benefiting from the

Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. Structured and pow-erful, it has solid tannins that mask the blackberry and currant flavors. It’s for long-term aging, one of the few wines in Pauillac that is not a classified growth. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Château La Fleur Payrabon 2010 Pauil-lac. A structured wine from this small 17-acre

Pauillac cru bourgeois, this shows weight, intense black-currant fruitiness and density from the high proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. Dark and brood-ing, it’s likely to age for many years. Millésima USA. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Château Lynch-Moussas 2010 Pauillac. One of the chateaus owned by négociant Borie-

Manoux, Lynch-Moussas has produced a fine, stylish 2010, which is firmly based on Cabernet Sauvignon. The fruit is rich and ripe, dominated by a blackberry note and underpinned by tannins. This is a chateau to watch. Borie-Manoux—R.V. abv: NA Price: $80

92 Château Grand-Puy-Ducasse 2010 Pauil-lac. Tough at the moment, this is a wine with

impressive concentration. It’s solid and chunky, with massive structure. The fragrant finish is a sign of the pleasure to come. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

91 Château d’Armailhac 2010 Pauillac. This is a wine that’s full of blackberry flavor, with el-

egant fruitiness and sweet tannins. It may miss the firm structure of the vintage, but it makes up for that with its forward, ripe fruitiness. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

91 Château Haut Bages Libéral 2010 Pauil-lac. The wine from this chateau, whose vines

touch those of Latour, is solid and dense, with a sense of severity that is often the hallmark of this fifth growth. It is dark and the fruits whisper in the distance. This needs to age for several years. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Château Croizet-Bages 2010 Pauillac. This wine shows more structure than fruit at

this stage. With its powerful tannins, its severity will take many years to soften. But it does have fruit in the form of a juicy blackberry note that’s accompanied by acidity. Give the rest of the fruit time to come through. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

SAINT-JULIEN

100 Château Léoville-Barton 2010 Saint-Julien. This magnificent, solid wine is ini-

tially severe, with its tannins dominating, yet it already reveals a full array of black fruits. Very dense and con-centrated, this is a wine that’s even better than the cha-teau’s legendary 2005. The structure tells of its extraor-dinary aging potential: Don’t even attempt to drink this for the next 10 years. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

98 Château Léoville-Poyferré 2010 Saint-Julien . A wine of architectural strength and

classical proportions, this has straight lines that mark the packed, concentrated fruits, which are sustained by its tannins. This is certainly the best wine that Léoville-Poyferré has produced, sumptuous while so finely struc-tured. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

95 Château Branaire-Ducru 2010 Saint-Julien . This rich, full wine shows the chateau

to be at the top of its form. It’s finely balanced, push-ing both its fruit and acidity, with the tannins taking the supporting role. With its power leashed, this shows the stylish side of Saint-Julien, although it will certainly age for many years. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

95 Château Gruaud-Larose 2010 Saint-Julien . For anybody looking for classic

Bordeaux , this is the bottle to seek. “Classic” here means a wine with a tannic structure that also relies on a black currant flavor, with acidity providing freshness but not losing any concentration or aging potential. Keep for many years. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

94 Château Beychevelle 2010 Saint-Ju-lien. Beychevelle’s style privileges elegance

over weight, and such is the case with the 2010. It’s a pure-fruited, ripe and lightly tannic wine, emphasizing a blackberry note. This will evolve relatively quickly, reaching a peak in approximately eight years. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

94 Château Langoa-Barton 2010 Saint-Julien . Fruity and juicy, this showcases the ac-

cessibility of this estate, while also highlighting some of the tannic structure of its big brother, Léoville-Barton. There is a classic black-currant note that’s balanced by the firm tannins of the vintage. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Château Lagrange 2010 Saint-Julien. With vineyards in the west of Saint-Julien,

Lagrange produces wines that are polished and elegant. In 2010, that style has been suffused with tannins while also delivering a black currant flavor. The wine is rich and ripe, with just the right amount of tannic structure for the fruit. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Château les Ormes 2010 Saint-Julien. From one of the few Saint-Julien properties

that are not cru classé, this nevertheless shows all the class of the appellation. It has ripe black-currant and berry flavors, laced with acidity and dry, dense tannins. Its richness is still developing. This has considerable ag-ing potential. Serge Doré Selections. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $115

93 Château Talbot 2010 Saint-Julien. This wine shows black currant fruit, with just the

right balancing acidity. Talbot is progressing well in its quest to bring out its fine terroir. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Château Gloria 2010 Saint-Julien. The wine shows considerable new-wood influence

at this stage. However, this wood emphasis brings out polished fruit that is deliciously smooth and blackberry-like in profile. This is likely to develop relatively quickly. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

89 Château Saint-Pierre 2010 Saint-Julien. A new-wood-dominated wine, this is very toasty

and extracted, and it is losing some of its fruit in the process. It has a fine structure that will fill out when the black currant flavor gets a chance to shine. Keep for 4–5 years. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

LISTRAC-MÉDOC

92 Château Fonréaud 2010 Listrac-Médoc. Warm and fruity, this has the right amount of

wood and sweetly ripe blackberry flavor. It is certainly structured, but the generous texture balances it, making it likely to age into a full, ripe character. Drink in 4–5 years. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Château Lestage 2010 Listrac-Médoc. Listrac’s naturally tannic character has bene-

fited from the structure-driven 2010 vintage. Château Lestage shows this well, bearing powerful, complex tan-nins that are powered equally by the ripe blackberry fla-vor and fruity acidity. It has just the right build for me-dium-term aging. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

91 Château Cap Léon Veyrin 2010 Listrac-Médoc. For full review see page 6.

abv: 14% Price: $30

90 Château Chemin-Royal 2010 Listrac-Médoc . From one of the properties owned

by the Chanfreau family of neighboring Château Fonréaud , Chemin-Royal is dominated by new wood flavors that give the wine a toasty edge. At this stage, it is difficult to taste the fruit, but the wine has weight, which should develop through the tannins. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Château Fourcas Dupré 2009 Listrac-Mé-doc. This is a firm and tough wine initially, but

it slowly opens and develops a rich character through its wood-aged and licorice flavors and fragrant acidity. It’s dense and rich, as one expects of the vintage, and it cer-tainly will age over many years. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

89 Château Saransot-Dupré 2010 Listrac-Médoc. A ripe and fruity wine produced

from old vines at Saransot-Dupré, this has a flavor of blackberry along with the complex tannins of Listrac. Weighty, solid and just a touch rustic, this needs several years to age. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

89 Château Saransot-Dupré 2009 Listrac-Médoc. A wine with structure, this achieves

balance with its black currant flavor and acidity. It’s lined firmly with tannins that bring a dry and texture to this solid, age-worthy bottle. Give it at least five years. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $61

88 Château L’Ermitage 2009 Listrac-Médoc . With its rich, ripe blackberry-jam flavor and soft

tannins, this is an immediately accessible, fruity wine.

The tannins provide structure that accompanies the ripeness, although this is not a wine to age for many years. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

87 Château Reverdi 2009 Listrac-Médoc. Here’s a big, smooth, round wine, with tan-

nins that are packed into the superripe fruit flavors. It is powerful and concentrated, and the wood influence is still prominent along with a touch of bitterness from overextraction. It needs time to fully integrate. Marsal-le/Stoler Company. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

MOULIS-EN-MÉDOC

93 Château Branas Grand Poujeaux 2010 Moulis-en-Médoc. From a 30-acre proper-

ty next to Château Chasse-Spleen, this 2010 is solid, dark and rich, typical of the vintage. There is a veneer of smooth new wood that opens to reveal firm, solid tan-nins. This is big, structured and ready for long-term ag-ing. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Château Dutruch Grand Poujeaux 2010 Moulis-en-Médoc. From the Poujeaux sec-

tion of Moulis, Dutruch Grand Poujeaux is still fami-ly-owned and -inhabited. This is deliciously fruity and the juicy black-currant flavor is firmly balanced by ripe, generous tannins. A concentrated wine that will certain-ly age well. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

91 Château du Plessis 2010 Moulis-en-Médoc . Concentrated, ripe, Merlot-typical

fruit flavors are the hallmark of this perfumed, ripe wine. It has a solid, slightly extracted character, which brings out an edge of bitterness. In contrast, a sweet-tasting plum note provides an open and round finish. For medium-term aging over 4–5 years. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Château la Gravière Grand Poujeaux 2010 Moulis-en-Médoc. One of the many

properties in Moulis with Poujeaux in its name, this es-tate has produced a classic, elegant wine, its Cabernet Sauvignon element providing a delicious black currant flavor, rounded out by the Merlot. Firm tannins still point the wine in the direction of aging, so give it four years and more. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $70

87 Château Moulin-à-Vent 2010 Moulis-en-Médoc. This is a fruity, light wine with attrac-

tive floral and fruity notes, especially black and red cur-rant. The tannins are already open, suggesting the wine is likely to age quickly. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

MARGAUX

96 Château Rauzan-Ségla 2010 Margaux. One of the top Margaux wines, this is in top

form, finely balanced and as elegant as it is powerful. It is darkly structured, dense yet balancing tannins with ripe black plums. It expresses the complexity of the vin-

tage. A wine for serious, long-term aging. Cellar Selec-tion. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

95 Château Cantenac-Brown 2010 Margaux. One of the finest wines to come from Cante-

nac Brown for many years, this is powerful and dense, dominated by Cabernet Franc tannins and fruits. The structure has a smooth, polished character that locates it firmly in Margaux, giving elegance and discreet fruiti-ness. Age this fine wine for many years. Cellar Selec-tion. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

95 Château Giscours 2010 Margaux. Gis-cours shows an initial character of great style

and elegance. The shining fruit and concentrated tan-nins follow, making it both a seductive wine and one with a long-term future. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

94 Château Brane-Cantenac 2010 Margaux. One of the Lurton properties in Margaux, Brane

Cantenac is showing the richness of its finely placed vineyard in this 2010. Smoky wood and ripe blackberry are among the flavors of a wine that is complex, com-plete and concentrated. It will certainly age well. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

94 Château Kirwan 2010 Margaux. This full, fruity wine is packed with acidity as well as ripe-

ness. It has a fresh black-currant character, and the structure underneath is strong. It will develop relatively quickly, but then could hold at its peak for many years. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

94 Château Labegorce Margaux 2010 Mar-gaux. It was powerful and dense at en primeur,

and it hasn’t changed since. This is firm, concentrated and very structured, perhaps extracted, showing the full force of blackberry and sweet wood flavors and dark tannins. Long-term aging needed. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Château Dauzac 2010 Margaux. Dauzac, whose vineyards are in the south of Margaux,

has produced a severe wine in 2010, full of impressive tannins. It is not without charm, however, and it will certainly fill out its serious structure over the next sev-eral years. Give this dense wine time. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Château Durfort-Vivens 2010 Margaux. An ugly duckling at en primeur time, this has

since blossomed into a wine that is structured, tend-ing toward severity. Yet it also has richness in the form of layered black fruit, with smooth wood influence and tight acidity on the finish. It’s a wine for long-term ag-ing. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Château la Tour de Bessan 2010 Mar-gaux. One of the three properties owned by

Marie-Laure Lurton, Tour de Bessan’s 2010 is a firm, smoky wine, dark and firm in character. It has weight, a solid and rich feel and a juicy black-currant note. The

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16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013

finish shows both aging potential and attractive fruiti-ness. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Château Prieuré-Lichine 2010 Margaux. The former home of Alexis Lichine is now

owned by a Pacific-based French mining company. The low yields of the 2010 (the vineyard was hit by hail) have produced a smooth and rich style of wine, which is weighty while also showing fine acidity on the finish. This has definite aging potential. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Château Deyrem Valentin 2010 Margaux. Located north of Margaux village, Deyrem Val-

entin is a small, family-owned property of 32 acres that represents one of the values of Margaux. This wine is smooth, polished and concentrated, with flavors of wood and a sweet-tasting blackberry. The acidity and tannins demonstrate a fine balancing act. This shows good aging potential. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Château du Tertre 2010 Margaux. Ripe, dense and smooth from wood aging, this is a

modern view of Margaux. At the same time, it shows a beautiful black-currant flavor from the Cabernet Sauvi-gnon, and the Petit Verdot adds great color. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Château Lascombes 2010 Margaux. Wood-driven tannins dominate at this stage,

creating a wine that is structured and dense. The tan-nins are layered with the weight of the black currant and plum fruits. Lascombes is still finding its style, but is definitely on the upward slope. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Château Siran 2010 Margaux. After a low period, Siran has come back in 2010 with this

solid, tannic, firm and serious wine. There is plenty of blackberry flavor to flesh out the structure, resulting in a wine for medium-term aging. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

91 Château Ferrière 2010 Margaux. With 20 acres—the smallest of the Margaux classified

growths—Ferrière has produced a 2010 of consider-able weight and structure. It’s dark and serious, with a solid flavor of black plum skin and dense acidity on the finish. Keep this wine for at least seven years for it to start softening. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

91 Château Marquis de Terme 2010 Mar-gaux. Juicy, though a little on the lean side,

this wine shows a strong flavor of black currant while its tannins are holding back. However, this vintage’s firm structure demonstrates the considerable investment in the chateau in the past few years. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

91 Château Pontac-Lynch 2010 Margaux. Pontac-Lynch’s 2010 is open, ripe and fruity. It

misses some of the structured character of the vintage but replaces that with a bright, juicy black-currant flavor

and some of Margaux’s typical fragrance and floral char-acter. For medium-term aging. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

91 Château Rauzan-Gassies 2010 Mar-gaux. With the 2009 and 2010 vintages, Rau-

zan-Gassies has hit its stride after many years of disap-pointments. This 2010 is powerful, fruity, dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon’s black currant flavor. There is a touch of barnyard at the end, but this is likely a pass-ing phase. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

89 Château Monbrison 2010 Margaux. Pow-erful, with concentrated tannins, this bottle re-

mains a tough proposition. Its acidity suggests some fruitiness, though the structure is lacking real flesh. This will obviously round out, but could well be a firm wine for many years. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

87 Barton & Guestier 2010 Margaux. This Margaux is full of firm tannins that parallel the

fragrant blackberry and black plum touches. It has a dense structure, very much in line with the year, while the finish is juicy and fruity. Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

87 Château Mongravey 2010 Margaux. A ripe, juicy and forward wine, this is all fruit—

but it’s delicious fruit. The tannins are restrained behind the exuberant fruitiness. It may not be classic Bordeaux, but it is likely to be very drinkable in 2–3 years. Youngs Market Co. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $35

PESSAC-LÉOGNAN

92 Château Brown 2010 Pessac-Léognan. Château Brown continues its impressive push

to quality with this fine 2010. It brings demonstrates the structure of the year with its firm, youthful tannins. But it also shows plentiful black-currant flavor, layered with acidity. Classic and serious, this is a wine for aging. Cel-lar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

91 Château le Pape 2010 Pessac-Léognan. Now owned by Château Haut-Bailly, this wine

was produced before the purchase. It is elegant and ripe; its tannins already well integrated, resulting in a full-bodied yet fruity character. Black plum and dark spice notes are lightened with refreshing acidity on the finish. Age for five years and more. Serge Doré Selec-tions. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $80

GRAVES

91 Château Haut Selve 2008 Réserve (Graves). Powerful tannins still control this

wine. It has a mineral-driven texture and is very firm, and the dry core still masks the potential of its delicious, juicy black fruits. Solid and chunky, yet maintaining el-

egance, this is a wine for aging over at least six years. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30

91 Château Rahoul 2005 Graves. Maturing well, yet with plenty of aging ahead, this is a firm

and fragrant selection. It has a ripe berry flavor and a hint of truffle, with sweet acidity and a dense, rich struc-ture. Dourthe USA. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $26

90 Château du Seuil 2009 Graves. Here’s a big, wood-laden wine that shows some bit-

terness, extraction and toast influence. However, the weight of ripe black-plum flavor will certainly come forward to produce a balanced, rich bottling, with the generosity of the year. Wait for 2–3 years. APS Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

90 Château Haut Selve 2009 Graves. For full review see page 7. Cellar Selection.

abv: 13.5% Price: $25

89 Château du Seuil 2008 Graves. Now ma-turing well, this is a wine that reflects much of

the freshness of 2008, with firm tannins and solid struc-ture. A black currant flavor dominates this elegant offer-ing, providing acidity as well as freshness. It could age for another few years, but is ready to drink now. APS Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25

89 Château l’Avocat 2009 Graves. This spicy, full-bodied effort shows the generosity of 2009.

It has firm tannins, but they are matched by the full blackberry and black currant flavors. The dry core from wood aging is likely to soften over the next 2–3 years. K&L Wine Merchants. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

89 Château Rahoul 2008 Graves. Chocolate and licorice flavors dominate this solid, four-

square yet austere wine. Its offers firm fruit, with a dense texture of black currant and red plum. Acidity and a spice note set off the finish. Dourthe USA. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $26

87 Château des Perligues 2010 Graves. Structured and aromatic, this is an immediately

attractive wine. It has a ripe, juicy character, balanced by firm, dry tannins. At this stage, although drinkable, it will certainly benefit from 3–4 years of aging. Roanoke Valley Wine Company. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

84 Château Toumilon 2009 Petit Toumilon (Graves). This is a light, fresh and fruity wine,

with an attractive red-berry flavor, plus acidity and a soft structure. Table & Vine. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $24

83 Château Toumilon 2009 Graves. This wine veers between firm tannins from old wood and

red fruit acidity, without finding balance. It’s very dry, with a hard edge. Table & Vine. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

WineMag.com | 17

RIGHT BANK RED BORDEAUX

BLAYE CÔTES DE BORDEAUX

90 Château Chantemerle 2009 (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. While this wine has the richness

and warmth of its vintage, it also has a fine, dusty, tannic structure, which gives it a serious aspect. Ripe black-plum and berry flavors provide a generous feel, while the crisp acidity offsets the ripeness. Vintage Trading Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $8

89 Château la Levrette 2009 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. This is an attractively perfumed

wine, which is polished by the wood influence, offering flavors of mint and eucalyptus. It is rich and spicy, with the weight of black fruits. This is already drinkable, so consume it now, or keep it for 3–4 years. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

88 Bernard Magrez 2011 Château Baffort (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). This black-

fruited effort is laced with a spicy wood note. It’s sur-prisingly delicious now, considering the firm tannins that compose its core, but the wine also promises some aging. Drink now for fruit, and age for more complexity. Bernard Magrez USA. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $15

88 Château Glorit 2009 Blaye Côtes de Bor-deaux. New wood, mint and eucalyptus aro-

mas lead to a palate that is dominated by wood. With the rich fruit underneath, the wine will come into bal-ance, becoming warm and generous, typical of the vin-tage. Vintage Trading Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

87 Bernard Magrez 2009 Château Pérenne (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). Firm, tannic

and dominated by dense black fruits, this has a seri-ous layer of wood that shows through in a smoky, burnt character which needs time to soften. Solid, foursquare and showing the great ripeness of Merlot in 2009. Ber-nard Magrez USA. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

87 Château Bel Enclos 2010 Cuvée Evi-dence (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). For

such a young wine, this is surprisingly mature. Its tan-nins have softened and rounded, becoming well inte-grated with the black currant flavor and bright acidity. It’s an attractive choice to drink now or over the next few years, but not for long-term aging. Serge Doré Se-lections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

CÔTES DE BOURG

89 Bernard Magrez 2010 Château Guerry (Côtes de Bourg). The 20% Malbec in the

blend helps to produce the spicy tannins and dark color of this wine. The other grapes in the blend add richness

and firm structure, plus a blackberry-driven juiciness. With its bright acidity added to the mix, this is a serious wine with good aging potential. Bernard Magrez USA. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

89 Château Grand-Maison 2010 Cuvée Spé-ciale (Côtes de Bourg). Firmly structured,

dense and concentrated, this special selection is domi-nated by Merlot, though the perfumes from Cabernet Franc are evident. It has weight and a tight, tannic tex-ture; age for at least five years. Pierre Courdurie Selec-tions/Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20

89 Château Haut-Pradier 2009 Côtes de Bourg. This is a toasty wine, with flavors of

eucalyptus and new wood, along with dry tannins. This combination indicates how young the wine still is, be-cause it has a background weight of fruit and a rich blackberry-jelly flavor. It needs aging over 4–5 years. Vintage Trading Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

88 Château Grand-Maison 2010 Valades (Côtes de Bourg). This hand-harvested wine

is a blend of Merlot and Malbec, with firm tannins and ripe berry and cassis flavors. Solid and chunky, this has aging potential. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Part-ners. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

88 Château le Piat 2009 Côtes de Bourg. This densely structured wine is heavy on the oak

aging, though it maintains layers of black currant and red plum flavors. It’s currently ripe, with the potential to soften into a warm, rich character. Vintage Trading Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $13

87 Château Grand-Maison 2010 Côtes de Bourg. Full and fruity, this wine shows a domi-

nance of Merlot, with a rich dried fruit flavor and sweet tannins. It has an attractive, juicy character on the fin-ish. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $27

86 Château Noblet 2009 Côtes de Bourg. This heavily wood-dominated wine features a

dry and tannic texture. It seems lean for the vintage, giving the impression of severity. The fruit shows only in the acidity at the end. Vintage Trading Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $8

86 Château Perthus 2009 Côtes de Bourg. Dry and firm, this has tannins and an austere

structure. It will remain severe, though as the tannins soften, the wine will become more round and develop into a true, food-friendly selection. Vintage Trading Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $19

POMEROL

93 Château la Croix du Casse 2009 Pomerol. This is a powerful, dry wine, with firm tannins

that are balanced by a ripe plum note and freshened by

the fruity acidity. It feels dark and dense, and it is likely to age well over 8–10 years. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Château le Bon Pasteur 2009 Pomerol. Big tannins give this wine a powerful structure.

It has a dense texture that is slowly revealing the sweet-tasting fruit. Powerful and concentrated, it has a long future. Rolland Collection. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Château le Gay 2009 Pomerol. With pow-erful new-wood aromas and flavors, this is a

wine that is smooth and polished, yet fruity. This has concentration and a dark character that comes from the opulent, ripe fruit. Give it at least 10 years. Cellar Se-lection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Château Vray Croix de Gay 2009 Pomerol. Powerful tannins give this wine its dense, con-

centrated character. It is dark and dense, very dry at this stage and needing at least 10 years to round itself out. However, the presence of fruit promises a good future. Cellar Selection. Barone Guichard. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $98

92 Château Certan 2009 Pomerol. This is a dry and firm wine, with hints of sweet-tasting

fruits that peep through its dense structure. It shows great power and concentration, with an obvious long-term future. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Château la Croix Saint-Georges 2009 Pomerol. This has enough rich fruit to meld

with the abundance of toasty wood. It is opulent and ripe, a powerful wine, typical of the vintage with its sweet red-berry flavor and refreshing acidity on the fin-ish. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Château Rouget 2009 Pomerol. This rounded wine is dense, with firm tannins that

are well molded into its sweet-tasting structure. Packed with ripe fruit, this will age relatively quickly, giving pleasure in 5–6 years. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Château Violette 2009 Pomerol. Very opu-lent in style, this wine is ripe, full bodied and

typical of 2009. It is rich and rounded, melding new wood tones and sweet black fruits into a delicious, age-worthy selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Clos l’Eglise 2009 Pomerol. Ripe and fruity, this has ripe tannin and rich red-berry

flavors. It has a solid, firm background of dark tannins that promise good aging. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

91 Château la Cabanne 2009 Pomerol. This rich, wood-aged wine shows a fine balance be-

tween rich black-fruit and new toast flavors. It has weight and power, without being over the top. For me-dium-term aging. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

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91 Château La Conseillante 2009 Duo de Conseillante (Pomerol). Dry and powerful,

this has a concentrated plum skin flavor and dark tan-nins. The wine’s intense fruitiness balances the struc-ture. This has great aging potential. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

91 Château Vieux Maillet 2009 Pomerol. This dense wine has black plum and chocolate

flavors, which are lifted by attractive acidity. It shows structure, richness and power, but all of that is mitigated by the fresh edge that elevates the finish. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

91 Clos du Canton des Ormeaux 2009 Pomerol. New wood dominates this smooth,

ripe wine. It has a high amount of toast flavor, which is sustained by its fragrant fruitiness. As the wine gets into its stride, it will show richness as well as structure. Cel-lar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Château Bourgneuf 2009 Pomerol. This is a solid, angular wine, both its structure and its

fruit coming together well. It has an underlying new-wood character that is powerful and rich. The tannins taste sweet and are already softening. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Château Haut-Maillet 2009 Pomerol. Opu-lent, ripe and juicy, this is packed with rich red-

berry flavors and acidity. It is warm and rounded, and its juicy character appears right away. Delicious to drink in five years or sooner. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Château la Pointe 2009 Pomerol. Dark and concentrated, this has upfront tannins,

followed by powerful, ripe black fruits. With its solid, chunky character, it will always be a massive, blockbust-er wine. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Château Pierhem 2009 Pomerol. An ele-gant wine, this is lightly perfumed with a fine

smoky flavor, which accompanies the generous notes of black fruits. The wood influence still shows prominently and needs a few years to integrate, but the wine now is exuberant, full bodied and replete with fruit. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $90

90 Château Plince 2009 Pomerol. The poten-tial for a juicy, fruity wine lurks here beneath

the youthful, extracted tannins. The wine certainly has density, with its rich structure coming through strongly. However, it needs aging over at least 10 years. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Clos du Beau-Père 2009 Pomerol. Packed with new wood, this is a tough, toasty wine at

present. It has weight and potential richness, showing that the future development of this concentrated effort will favor richness while remaining powerful. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

89 Château Pierhem 2010 Pomerol. Pierhem is a small property of four acres. In 2010, it pro-

duced this ripe wine from richly structured Merlot and perfumed Cabernet Franc. This is an impressive, plush effort, layering its chocolate and toast components over the full-bodied blackberry-juice note. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $76

89 Clos du Clocher 2009 Pomerol. Attractive acidity combines with a judicious use of wood

aging, producing a wine that is fresh, fragrant and ripe. It has weight while remaining lively and fruity. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

88 Château Guillot Clauzel 2009 Pomerol. This wine is dark, concentrated, initially hard

and tannic. Underneath, there is a fresh character from the red berry flavors, sweetness and lively acidity. For medium-term aging over 5–6 years. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

88 Château Plince 2009 La Fleur de Plince (Pomerol). This fragrant, juicy wine is packed

with red berry notes. Soft, fruity and developing well, it has attractive acidity that comes through strongly and cuts through the core of firm tannins. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

88 Clos René 2009 Pomerol. Big and solid, this is tannic and a solid. It has weight, huge rich-

ness and dark tannins. It’s a wine that needs maybe a decade to properly show the fruit that is underneath the extensive tannic character. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

87 Château du Domaine de l’Eglise 2009 Pomerol. Dry tannins from the old wood give

this wine a hard edge at first. Fresh, juicy red fruits offer an enticing character. On the finish, the tannins are tough and will need several years to soften Borie-Manoux.—R.V. abv: NA Price: $80

87 Horeau-Beylot 2009 Pomerol. New wood influence and extraction give the wine a bitter

edge, and a dark chocolate flavor dominates. It has a core of ripe black fruit that will round out as it develops. Solid, chunky, firm and dense. Marsalle/Stoler Compa-ny. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $149

82 Château Taillefer 2009 Pomerol. Very dry, tannic and hard, this is unlikely to soften with

time. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

81 Château Mazeyres 2009 Pomerol. Round and lacking form, this shows only tannins. It fea-

tures some attractive acidity, but it is finally spoiled by a rustic character. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

LUSSAC SAINT-ÉMILION

91 Château Bel Air 2009 Cuvée Jean-Gabriel (Lussac Saint-Émilion). This dense, tannic,

complex wine has blackberry and bitter chocolate fla-vors, with a dark, firm structure. The dusty tannins give weight and richness. Age this for five years. Total Wine & More. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $30

91 Château les Vieilles Pierres 2009 Lus-sac Saint-Émilion. Rich and packed with ripe

Merlot-based fruit, this is a solid wine, with a berry fla-vor and tannins. The delicious, juicy flavors speak to the ripe fruit that needs several years to fully mellow and integrate. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

90 Château Marion d’Audren 2010 Lussac Saint-Émilion. This small estate has produced

a rich, smooth 2010, showcasing a delicious, fruity style, with no hint on the palate of its high alcohol. Red and black fruits mingle easily and warmly, and the propor-tionate acids and tannins suggest potential. Keep for four years. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $40

89 Château Bel Air 2009 Lussac Saint-Émilion . While the wine has some richness, it

is also firmly structured, with a minerally severity from its tight tannins. Under the surface, there is a fruity character that’s dominated by a juicy black-currant fla-vor. Total Wine & More. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $20

MONTAGNE-SAINT-ÉMILION

90 Château La Bastienne 2010 Montagne-Saint-Émilion. Rich and firmly structured,

this shows ripe berry and currant notes. It is dense and juicy, layered with wood notes and loaded with sweet tannins. Like many wines from Montagne-Saint-Émil-ion, it offers good value. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $27

89 Château Plaisance 2010 Montagne-Saint-Émilion. Ripe and extracted, this shows

more of a bitter chocolate note than a fruit flavor. It has a very dry, firmly tannic character, with a dark, smoky feel. Powerful and concentrated, its pepper and spice tones accompany the note of black plum skin. Expect this to soften slowly over 4–5 years. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

89 Château Vieux Montagne 2011 Montagne- Saint-Émilion. Far too young to even consider

drinking, this is a wine whose potential comes from its rich, round, concentrated black fruits and its dense tan-nins. It’s chewy and chunky; age for at least four years. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $40

88 Château La Bastienne 2009 Montagne-Saint-Émilion. This richly perfumed wine is

firm with tannins, showing its high alcohol through a sharp peppery edge. It is dense and concentrated, al-

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most too much so to pair with food. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $29

SAINT-ÉMILION

95 La Mondotte 2009 Saint-Émilion. Gener-ous, rich and ripe, this boasts black fruits and

sweet tannins. With layers of new wood, this is a wine that shows attractive fruitiness now and has consider-able aging ability. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

94 Château Angélus 2009 Saint-Émilion. Closed at this stage, this promises a huge, ripe

future. Toast and spice notes are balanced around a black plum flavor. The dense, dark tannins create a brooding character, which is balanced by freshness on the finish. Give this wine at least 10 years. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

94 Château Valandraud 2009 Saint-Émilion. Big, floral, ripe and juicy, this epitomizes the

richness of the 2009 vintage. It offers firm tannins and generous, forward fruits. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

94 Château Valandraud 2008 Saint-Émilion. Ripe and juicy, this is already a delicious, fruity

wine. It has a fresh fragrance, with tannins and a coffee flavor. Ample acidity gives the finish freshness. It still needs to age to reveal all its character. Cellar Selec-tion. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Château Edmus 2009 Saint-Émilion. This powerful effort is holding back on its richness

now, but it has great potential. It has concentration, firm tannins and round fruit that will soften over the next several years. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Château Faugères 2009 Saint-Émilion. Big and fruity, this is packed with sweet-tasting

complex tannins. It is smooth, very dark, ripe and gen-erous. The black fruit flavor gives opulence as well as the power that propels the wine. It needs several years of aging. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Château Louis 2009 Saint-Émilion. This gorgeous wine is full of ripe fruits, which are

balanced with solid tannins, produing a complex, dense-ly structured wine. It shows promise for the long term. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Château Sansonnet 2009 Saint-Émilion. Solid, concentrated and balanced, this has fla-

vors of black plum skin and blackberry along with lico-rice and toast notes. Impressive and ready for long-term aging. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 La Mondotte 2008 Saint-Émilion. There are strong mint and herb aromas on this round,

sweet-tasting wine. Its fresh texture is infused with a

pleasing black-currant flavor. The tannins indicate that it’s also an age-worthy, complex wine. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Château de Candale 2009 Saint-Émilion. Warm, voluptuous, rich and generous, this wine

has the right weight, along with firm, dark tannins and a bitter coffee flavor. The finish is warm and delicious. Adams French Vineyards. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Château des Laudes 2009 Saint-Émilion. Currently closed, this has the weight and the

richness of its vintage. Given 5–6 years, its sweet- and soft-tasting fruit flavors with cut through the firm tan-nins. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Château Fombrauge 2008 Magrez Fom-brauge (Saint-Émilion). Rich and juicy, this

features a ripe plum flavor and acidity, resulting in a wine that is fragrant, fresh and structured. It has power, and its dark concentration is at the heart of this solid ef-fort. Bernard Magrez USA. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $140

92 Château Grand Barrail Lamarzelle Figeac 2008 Saint-Émilion. This wine starts with a

shock of acidity, followed by a ripe blackberry note. It is upright, structured and still young, and its sweetness is just beginning to show through the tannins and acid-ity. Give it 3–4 years. Dourthe USA. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $38

92 Château la Bienfaisance 2009 Saint-Émil-ion. This is weighty, closed, dark and dense,

and the tannins dominate. For the time being, the ripe, juicy fruits are overwhelmed by the firm structure. This needs time. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Château la Bienfaisance 2008 Saint-Émil-ion. Complex tannins lend this wine weight and

structure. It has a good sense of freshness, and its black currant flavor underscores the dark, dry core. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

91 Château de Ferrand 2009 Saint-Émilion. This sweet-tasting, juicy wine shows initial fruit-

iness, and then it packs a punch of dark tannins, a toast note and a dry, dark core. With this firm character, it will age over many years. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

91 Château Fonplégade 2009 Saint-Émilion. Almost black in color, this is a powerful expres-

sion of rich 2009. It feels sumptuous and rich, and the acidity provides good counterweight. There is structure from the wood aging that threads through the black fruits. Concentrated and dense, it should age over 5–6 years. Adams French Vineyards. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $NA

91 Château Lynsolence 2008 Saint-Émilion. This is a serious, tannic wine that will need many

years to fully develop. For now, it has firm tannins, cre-ating a dense texture and a solid structure. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

91 Clos Badon 2009 Saint-Émilion. This ripe, sweet-tasting wine balances a new wood note

against a red berry flavor. It’s opulent, rich and gener-ous, a delicious powerhouse of sumptuous flavors. It can be enjoyed soon, and it can age for many years. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

91 Clos la Madeleine 2008 Saint-Émilion. Generous and ripe, this features flavors of

blackberry and damson. It still shows plenty of youth-ful tannins, but these are maturing and softening into a cushiony texture. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

91 Clos Saint-Julien 2009 Saint-Émilion. Chocolate and coffee flavors dominate this firm

and concentrated wine. It’s big and tannic, but at this stage hard and tough. Give it at least 10 years for the fruit potential to show. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

91 Sanctus 2009 Saint-Émilion. While the wine’s surface is smooth, underneath there are

firm, dry tannins that offer potential for power. New wood flavors are still prominent, indicating that this is still a wine in development. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Château de Pressac 2008 Saint-Émilion. This juicy wine is packed with a black currant

flavor, plus fragrant tannins and taut acids. Wood aging shows in the form of a bitter chocolate note. It will need to age for at least eight years. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Château Edmus 2008 Saint-Émilion. Made using fruit from a vineyard created by

consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt, this wine is cur-rently closed, but it shows fine aging potential. It has dense tannins, but also the weight of fresh fruit under-neath. Wood is a dominant factor, concentrating into a point of firm dryness. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Château Fombrauge 2008 Saint-Émilion . Rich and full bodied, this wine includes flavors

of black plum and blackberry. It is dense and firmly tan-nic, with the wood aging still evident. A strong coffee flavor is a powerful component of this solid, tannic wine. Bernard Magrez USA. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $32

90 Château Franc Grace Dieu 2010 Saint-Émilion. The Grâce-Dieu sector of Saint-Émil-

ion lies between the city and the vineyards of Figeac . This 30-acre property has produced a structured 2010, bringing out the richness of the black-plum-flavored Merlot. At the same time, it has a delicate, perfumed character that, along with acidity, gives the wine a final lift. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $29

90 Château Lassègue 2009 Saint-Émilion. Powerful and rich, this has sweet tannins that

20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013

overlay a juicy blackberry-jelly flavor. It is sumptuous and opulent, squeezing out every bit of richness. It has weight, and its tannins offer a fine future. Kendall-Jack-son. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Château Louis 2008 Saint-Émilion. Firm and solid, this has a new-wood smoothness un-

derneath the dark tannins. It is concentrated and dense, and the blackberry and plum skin flavors provide a fruity, juicy aftertaste. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Château Tour de Lagarde 2010 Saint-Émilion. Powerful and dense, this is already a

smooth, rich wine, and its tannins are cushioned by the generous blackberry note. There are mint and tar hints along with a smoke accent from the wood, resulting in a wine that has a dry edge yet is dominated by ripe, juicy fruit. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $60

90 Château Valandraud 2009 Virginie de Valandraud (Saint-Émilion). This sweet-

tasting, fruity wine features a delicious, fragrant, juicy blackberry flavor. Its tannins are solid, but they are sec-ondary to the generous fruits. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Clos Badon 2008 Saint-Émilion. Minty, ripe and concentrated, this wine has notes of

sweet plum and spice, with soft, forward tannins. This is likely to mature soon. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Clos la Madeleine 2009 Saint-Émilion. This big, solid, rich effort is packed with seem-

ingly sweet fruits and firm tannins, with a bitter extract-ed feel. The wine has great weight, and it’s a powerful expression of the rich 2009 vintage. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Sanctus 2008 Saint-Émilion. This has sweet-tasting, juicy fruit that is immediately ap-

pealing. Its firm structure of tannins appear underneath the ripe red-berry and black currant flavors. It’s devel-oping well into an accessible and delicious wine. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

89 Château de Pressac 2009 Saint-Émilion. Ripe, juicy and fragrant, this has a delicious red

berry flavor that is ready to give pleasure. Maybe it’s not a wine for long-term aging, but keep it for at least for 4–5 years. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

89 Château Lynsolence 2009 Saint-Émilion. This is a ripe, fruity wine, with a black currant

flavor, layered tannins and refreshing acidity. It’s a wine of power yet also of pleasure for drinking now. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

89 Château Sansonnet 2008 Saint-Émilion. Red fruit flavors push their way upfront in this

wine, producing a full fruit character that has a juicy, fragrant style. It’s elegant, already offering a fine experi-ence. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

89 Clos des Menuts 2009 Saint-Émilion. Very rich and concentrated, this is a blockbust-

er wine. Its sweet fruit is packed with a high amount of toast flavors. Acidity seems to be missing, giving the wine opulence without the final sense of age worthiness. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

88 Château Barde Haut 2008 Saint-Émilion. Ripe, rich and generous, this has tannins that

show the basic structure of the wine, with chocolate and licorice flavors highlighting the wood infuence. At the same time, it has a delicious fruitiness. J.J. Buckley Fine Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

88 Château Faugères 2008 Saint-Émilion. Firmly tannic, angular and powerful, this has

concentrated bitter-coffee and licorice flavors that come through strongly, offering intense acidity, a black plum note and a dark finish. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

88 Château Fonplégade 2009 Fleur de Fon-plégade (Saint-Émilion). The second wine

of Château Fonplégade, this is packed with Merlot, which accounts for the richness. Juicy and soft, with a hint of black plum juice, it’s balanced by a core of tan-nins and finishes with acidity. A wine that will age quick-ly. Adams French Vineyards. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $NA

88 Château La Fortine 2008 Cuvée Les Cè-dres (Saint-Émilion). The tannins are firm

and dry, producing a solid structure. A black currant fla-vor emerges slowly, offering a fruity counterpoint. Al-though the wine—named after the cedar trees on the property—is ripe and tarry, it needs another year or two. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $50

88 Château Lassègue 2008 Saint-Émilion. This is a round wine, with ripe tannins and a

sweet-tasting blackberry flavor. It shows a definite sense of power, and the freshness of the year is also apparent. Big and chunky, this finishes with a crisp black-currant note. Kendall-Jackson. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

88 Clos des Menuts 2008 Saint-Émilion. Sweet-tasting fruits dominate this wine. With its

black currant flavor, it’s a wine that expresses the fresh character of the vintage without losing its own sense of richness. Charming already, it will certainly age. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

87 Barton & Guestier 2010 Saint-Émilion. This tough, tannic wine is all structure and

wood flavor, which results in a firm, solid feel, with a black-currant-driven fruit character. The toast adds a burnt edge. Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

87 Château Barde Haut 2009 Saint-Émilion. Bitter tannins and heavy toast influence suggest

a wine that has been heavily extracted. Rich and sweet-tasting, it has power and a solid, tannic presence. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

87 Château Clos de Sarpe 2008 Saint-Émilion . Overripe, this seems like an oddly

structured wine. The fruit is buried under the wood in-fluence and tannins, which introduce a licorice charac-ter. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

87 Château Fombrauge 2009 Saint-Émilion. The wood, with its heavy toast and licorice fla-

vors, is dominant. That element makes for a wine that has weight but loses its fruit amid the firm extraction. Bernard Magrez USA. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $34

86 Château Clos de Sarpe 2009 Saint-Émilion . This shows the problems of overripe

fruit that plagued many 2009s. It is soft, giving the im-pression of sweetness, with the structure vastly under-stated. Juicy and fruity, this is ready to drink now. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

86 Château de Ferrand 2008 Saint-Émilion. Here’s a solid, dark wine, with an old wood char-

acter. It has weight, a black plum flavor and dark tan-nins. This feels old and hard. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

86 Horeau-Beylot 2009 Château Grand Mar-tinet (Saint-Émilion). Dry and firm, this is

smothered with hard-edged tannins that give the wine a tough character. It will soften a little bit, but not com-pletely. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $75

85 Château Fombrauge 2009 Magrez Fom-brauge (Saint-Émilion). This very ripe wine

is structured with considerable new-wood flavors. It’s hard, tannic and extracted, missing a sense of fruitiness. Bernard Magrez USA. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $150

85 Château Jacques Noir 2010 Saint-Émilion . Concentrated chocolate and licorice

flavors characterize this wine, which shows signs of ex-traction along with a burn from the alcohol. Its fruit is the high point, with a burst of ripe blackberry juice, plus a black-currant-like tautness. The superripe Merlot will need several years to soften. Planet Wine. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $30

85 Château Péby Faugères 2009 Saint-Émilion . New wood dominates this wine,

which is full of rich tannins, and notes of smoky wood, licorice and black coffee. The fruit feels extracted, hard-edged and too strong for its own good. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

85 Château Valandraud 2008 Virginie de Va-landraud (Saint-Émilion). Dominated by

new wood aromas, this is an oaky wine that is all struc-ture. It is very dry, with chocolate and burnt toast flavors providing a hard finish. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

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CASTILLON CÔTES DE BORDEAUX

90 Château l’Estang 2010 Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux. This fruity effort from the hill

vineyards behind Castillon has weight, structure and a style characterized by full and ripe red fruit. The tan-nins are cushioned by the generous fruit, and the wine will improve over the next four years. L & F Distribu-tors. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $15

88 Château Roquevieille 2009 Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux. Although it carries the

structure of the vintage, this wine brings some warmth and a rich blackberry flavor. It has a fine texture and a firm, upright feel. Ready for drinking in a year. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

86 Château des Demoiselles 2010 Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux. This is a big, weighty

tannin- and wood-dominated wine, with a structure that is firm, dry and concentrated. It shows the firm struc-ture of the year, and the juicy black fruits are still wait-ing to show. Give it 2–3 years. Laville Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $17

OTHER RIGHT BANK REDS

90 Château Bel-Air 2010 Puisseguin Saint-Émilion. Firm and closed, this wine’s Merlot

content is balanced by a touch of perfumed Cabernet Franc. It has dark tannins, solid fruits and a depth of fla-vor that offers both weight and juicy richness. Still very firm, this wine, which is made using fruit from vineyards close to Saint-Émilion , needs several years to soften and become round. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

90 Château Canon 2005 Canon-Fronsac. For full review see page 7.

abv: 13% Price: $40

88 Château La Croix Romane 2010 Lalande de Pomerol. This Merlot-dominated blend

has resulted in a wine that is both juicy and structured. With its forward flavor of black currant juice, it is sur-prisingly ready to drink, although the tannins also prom-ise aging. It’s ripe and dense, while the final acidity of-fers a fresh finish Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $37

88 Château Martet 2007 Réserve de Famille (Sainte-Foy Bordeaux). This wine hovers

between being lightweight and dense. It’s certainly ma-ture, with tar and rose aromas, followed by spice and ci-gar box notes, and layered with acidity. Drink now. L&C Wine Country Operations, LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

88 Château Tour du Moulin 2010 Fronsac. Spiced with wood notes and bearing extracted

tannins, this is a hard wine at its current stage. It shows its rich dried-fruit character, which is dense and very

concentrated, with a bitter edge. It needs at least four years to soften out. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $40

84 Château Vieux Ferrand 2011 Cuvée Leg-ta (Lalande de Pomerol). Lean, soft and

soapy in character, this has a dry core and soft tannins, with a lightweight red-berry note. Not for aging. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $50

OTHER RED BORDEAUX

BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR

90 Château Argadens 2009 Bordeaux Su-périeur. This powerful, concentrated effort

shows dense tannins that are balanced by rich black fruits. The wine has a sense of elegance that balances all of the richness. It’s worth aging for at least 4 years. Maison Sichel. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $12

90 Château Barreyre 2009 Bordeaux Supéri-eur. Solid and structured, delicious and fruity,

this has all the elements of a firm, balanced wine, with a black fruit flavor and sweet acidity, plus a fragrant, smoky finish. Age for 4–5 years. Michael Corso Selec-tions. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $22

90 Château Darzac 2010 Héritage (Bor-deaux Supérieur). This is a powerful, com-

plex, wood-aged wine. The elements are all present, but the fruit dominates at the moment. It’s rich and concen-trated, showing the potential of a balanced, ripe wine. With all this density and structure, give it four years. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $20

90 Château Fleur Haut Gaussens 2009 Bor-deaux Supérieur. This is packed with just the

right amount of tannins and dark fruits. It has weight, structure and a blackberry note. It needs to age at least five years for the full character to emerge. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $14

90 Château la Croix de Roche 2009 Bor-deaux Supérieur. Round and fruity, this is

dominated by generous fruit flavors and soft tannins. Its open character is backed up by notes of new wood, va-nilla and some smoky spice. It’s delicious now, and it will age over several years. Misa Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

90 Château La Mothe du Barry 2010 Cuvee le Barry (Bordeaux Supérieur). This is a

perfumed wine, and its new wood and violet aromas create equally pleasant flavors. The surface-level bril-liance is followed by rich, dark tannins and a blackberry note. Elite Wines Import. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $20

90 Château Lauduc 2009 Prestige (Bor-deaux Supérieur). Structured and very rich,

this has sweet tannins that provide weight while retain-

ing the wine’s ripe, fruity character. It has a solid, firm texture, and the wood influence gives a burst of firm toast. Age for 4–5 years. Zachy’s. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $16

90 Château Les Gravières de la Brandille 2009 Cuvée Prestige (Bordeaux Supéri-

eur). Here’s a concentrated effort, with its tannins pro-viding a powerful force behind the sweet-tasting fruit. A flavor of wood shows strongly, and the wine has a rich, full-bodied feel, with fine structure for aging. Volubilis Import Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $17

90 Château Penin 2010 Les Cailloux (Bor-deaux Supérieur). This big, smoky, fruity

wine revels in its rich, black and juicy fruits as much as in its ripe tannins. It is well constructed, with a sol-id build to balance the full, upfront fruits. Bayfield Im-porting Ltd. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Château Plaisance 2009 Bordeaux Su-périeur. This is a firmly structured and concen-

trated wine, featuring black fruit that has the weight to balance the dense, solid tannins. Powered by the rich-ness of the vintage, this should age for 3–4 years. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Château Sainte Marie 2010 Vieilles Vi-gnes (Bordeaux Supérieur). Powerful, rich

and dense, this has tannins and fruit that share the same generosity and ripeness. The wood influence provides a caramel character at the back of the sweet-tasting fruit notes. Age for 4–5 years. Polaner Selections. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $11

90 Château Trocard Monrepos 2009 Bor-deaux Supérieur. Powerful and structured,

this offers both the weight and the potential for rich fruit. Dominated at this stage by tannins and wood-in-fluenced flavors, the black plum note is likely to come through in the next year. The acidity is crisp, and a bit-ter cherry character flavors the finish. Spec’s. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $17

89 Château Beaulieu Comtes de Tastes 2009 Bordeaux Supérieur. A balanced

wine that brings together flavors of wood, smoke and ripe black currant, it’s elegant, forward and structured. Drink soon, or age for several years. Wine Warehouse Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

89 Château de Goëlane 2009 Bordeaux Su-périeur. This solid, chunky wine expresses dry

tannins as much as ripe fruit. The structure is present, but the black currant note is still waiting for its chance to shine. Give it 4–5 years. Luneau USA Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

89 Château de Terrefort-Quancard 2009 Bordeaux Supérieur. Big and fruity, this

has generous tannins and ripe black fruits. With its full

22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013

fruits bursting out of the glass, it is already suitable for drinking. Delicious, full bodied and a great testament to the vintage’s quality. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $20

89 Château Grand Jean 2009 Bordeaux Su-périeur. This rounded, wood-aged wine has

just the right amount of structure and delicious acid-ity to accompany the full red- and black-berry notes. It’s refreshing, while still concentrated and age worthy. Stoller. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $12

89 Château La Mothe du Barry 2010 Vieilles Vignes (Bordeaux Supérieur). A solid and

dense wine, this is full of firm tannins, plus black currant and berry flavors. It is well structured and concentrated, a benefit from using fruit sourced from low-yield old vines. With its dark, dense texture, it will age for several years. Elite Wines Import. —R.V. abv: 13.8% Price: $21

89 Château La Rose du Pin 2010 Bordeaux Supérieur. Firm and solid, this features

chunky tannins and strong structure. It shows its wood aging strongly at the moment, which covers some of the ripe blackberry flavor. It has weight and power from its dry core and fruit, which promises aging. Laville Im-ports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

89 Château le Grand Verdus 2009 Généra-tion (Bordeaux Supérieur). A wine with

good depth of flavor, this is uses fruit that was selected from the best parcels of Le Grand Verdus. It has firm tannins, along with flavors of rich black fruits and wood-derived spices. With its weight and concentration, it’s a wine that should age over several years. BCI LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

89 Château Pierrail 2010 Bordeaux Supéri-eur. While there is plenty of new wood influ-

ence in this wine, it also has delicious fruit. The com-bination results in a juicy flavor of black stone fruit, with good acidity to accompany the toast and smoked meat flavors. Age for 3–4 years. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $30

88 Château Haut Bessac 2009 Bordeaux Su-périeur. Sweet-tasting flavors of black plums

and wild strawberries give this wine its initial charm. The tannins provide a firm structure under the attrac-tive surface. It’s rich, ripe and already a pleasure. Seren-dipity Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

88 Château La Rose du Pin 2009 Bordeaux Supérieur. This wine takes a while to show its

stuff, but when it opens, it reveals a warm and richly structured character. Flavors of wood and sweet-tasting fruits combine on the generous finish. Laville Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

88 Château Lamothe-Vincent 2010 Héritage (Bordeaux Supérieur). Notes of sweet wood

and ripe stone fruits blend together in this solid, smoky and bacon-flavored wine. It is soft, firm and generous, with a full texture. Laville Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

88 Château le Grand Verdus 2009 Grande Réserve (Bordeaux Supérieur). This finely

tannic wine features an intensely smoky black-currant flavor. It has good depth of flavor, and as the wine ages further, the fruit will emerge from the tannins. Keep for 3–4 years. BCI LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

88 Château Lescalle 2009 Bordeaux Supéri-eur. This balanced, ripe wine shows the rich-

ness of the year while offering enough structure for ag-ing. It has weight and concentration, its black fruits an integral part of this dense wine. Monsieur Touton Se-lection Ltd. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $14

88 Château Lestrille Capmartin 2009 Bor-deaux Supérieur. Ripe fruits blend well with

dark tannins in this firm, concentrated wine. It feels rich, with power coming both from the juicy fruit and the ripe tannic structure. Age for 3–4 years. Charles Neal Selections. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $18

88 Château Mirefleurs 2009 Bordeaux Su-périeur. This firm, fruity effort shows red berry

flavors as well as an underlay of tannins. It is full and fruity at this stage, and it will likely show more toast and structured complexity as it ages. Luneau USA Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

88 Château Roc de Levraut 2010 Bordeaux Supérieur. Rich and generous, this has a red

cherry flavor that matches its powerful tannins. It’s a wine that needs some aging, though because of its fruitiness it can also be consumed within the next few months. It has a fine, refreshing finish. MS Walker. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $13

88 Château Tour de Gilet 2009 Bordeaux Su-périeur. Smooth and rich, this has tannins that

are already well integrated into the ripe red-berry note. With power and concentration, this is likely to age well, and the tannins will soften into a rich, full-bodied, fruity wine. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

88 Domaine de Courteillac 2009 Bordeaux Supérieur. This is a full, ripe wine, with tan-

nins that are already well integrated into the red fruits. It’s rich and full, packed with delicious ripeness. A wine for pleasure in the next few months, but it will also age well for 3–4 years. Ideal Wine and Spirits Co. Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $19

88 Horeau-Beylot 2010 Château Lajarre (Bordeaux Supérieur). With a significant

proportion of Cabernet Franc, this is a perfumed and elegant wine. It has a serious edge of tannins in addi-

tion to juicy red-berry flavors. The finish is firm and dry. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $27

87 Château Couronneau 2009 Bordeaux Su-périeur. This big, bold wine is full of ripe fruit.

It has a dense structure, with wood-aged flavors and firm tannins. The black fruits are showy and likely to de-velop quickly. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $25

87 Château Darzac 2010 Réserve (Bordeaux Supérieur). Rich and structured, this features

tannins that pack the same weight as its ripe black fruits. A wood element shows in the background. The balance is likely to come together in the next year. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $12

87 Château de Macard 2010 Bordeaux Su-périeur. Both the aromas and the flavors show

considerable wood-aging notes that need time to inte-grate. The wine will begin to show its fruity black-cur-rant and red plum flavors in a year. It has the richness and ripeness for aging over several years. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

87 Château Haut-Mongeat 2009 Cuvée Isa-belle (Bordeaux Supérieur). Ripe red fruits

give this wine a juicy feel. The fruit is balanced, with new wood and caramel flavors offering a smooth con-trast to each other. The smoky aftertaste is warm and ripe. Bad Boy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $25

87 Château Laronde Désormes 2009 Bor-deaux Supérieur. This is a generous, full-bod-

ied wine that shows the ripe fruit of the vintage. The fruit appears upfront, offering a warm mouthfeel, and the tannic structure is likely to allow it to age. Michael Corso Selections. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $25

87 Château Lézin 2010 Bordeaux Supérieur. Soft, ripe and fruity, this is an attractive, ready-

to-drink wine. Its juicy red fruits are balanced with tan-nins, offering a dry contrast. The finish is dark, struc-tured and suggestive of the wine’s potential for aging. Dourthe USA. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $12

87 Château Marac 2010 Grande Tradition (Bordeaux Supérieur). Big, rich and power-

ful, this extracted wine shows density, sweet tannins and dark fruits. It is ripe and strong, the structure perhaps overshadowing the rest of the wine. Wine Agencies Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

87 Château Montet 2009 Cuvée Prestige (Bordeaux Supérieur). Dark and brooding,

this is characterized by a plum skin note, plus firm tan-nins and a solid structure. It’s concentrated and dense, a wine that is serious and needs to age for 4–5 years. The finish has a firm feel. Total Wine & More. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $20

WineMag.com | 23

87 Château Montlau 2010 Bordeaux Supéri-eur. Rich and fruity, this wine is balanced, with

tannins and red fruits in harmony. It has weight and richness without being overpowerful. Ready to drink in six months. Vintage Trading Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $17

87 Château Pey la Tour 2009 Réserve du Château (Bordeaux Supérieur). Smoky,

ripe and juicy, this wine’s weight and tannins are sec-ondary to the plum note and balancing acidity. The wine is open, generous and delicious already. Dourthe USA. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $17

87 Château Turcaud 2010 Cuvée Majeure (Bordeaux Supérieur). Juicy fruit is present

in this wine, with firm, extracted tannins. It needs time to show its potential black-currant and berry notes. Give it 3–4 years. Sussex Wine Merchants. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $18

86 Cave de Rauzan 2009 Haut de Fontaneau (Bordeaux Supérieur). Ripe and fruity, this

features red fruits that are layered with firm tannins. It has both weight and attractive fruit acidity, which pro-vide structure and freshness. It’s a wine that is drinkable now and also has aging potential. DBA Prestige Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

86 Château Belle Garde 2010 Excellence (Bordeaux Supérieur). A perfumed new-

wood influence gives this wine a smooth, polished, mint-flavored character. Its fruits and tannins come firmly to a sharply etched point. It needs time to soften. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

86 Château Bois Noir 2009 Bordeaux Su-périeur. New wood dominates this soft wine.

The fruit is round and smoky, featuring notes of black cherries and red plums that fall behind a toasty caramel sweetness. It needs several months for the wood influ-ence to integrate. Wines Unlimited, Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

86 Château de Brondeau 2009 Bordeaux Supérieur. This is a full-bodied wine, with tan-

nins that have melded into the ripe character. Red and black fruits push through the warm, open structure. This is meant for drinking soon. Stacole Fine Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $14

86 Château Feret Lambert 2010 Costes du Château Feret Lambert (Bordeaux Su-

périeur). A very closed wine, this buries its ripe fruits beneath a solid structure of tannins. There is weight, so the wine is likely to develop well, developing richness and firmness. JF Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

86 Château Haut Mallet 2009 Bordeaux Su-périeur. Big, ripe and fruity, this has tannins

that are well integrated into the complex, dense fruit texture. Wood flavors offer a counterpoint to the berry notes and final acidity. Chartrand Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $22

86 Château La Mothe du Barry 2010 Bor-deaux Supérieur. This soft, fruity wine is

lined with acidity and gentle tannins. It has a ripe red-berry flavor, with a touch of cherry and some dryness toward the finish. Not for long-term aging. Elite Wines Import. —R.V. abv: 13.8% Price: $16

86 Château le Gardera 2010 Bordeaux Su-périeur. This very dry wine has tough tannins

at this stage. Under its firm exterior, this has textured black currant fruit, which is cut through with acidity. This will likely continue to maintain firm tannins along with its severe fruit. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

85 Château de Brague 2009 Bordeaux Su-périeur. Soft and ripe, this wine is all fruit and

sweet acidity. There is a light yet generous mouthfeel, with its tannins following its open fruitiness. PS Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

85 Château de Parenchère 2010 Bordeaux Supérieur. An attractive, caramel- and red-

fruit-flavored wine, this has soft tannins and ripe berry notes that are lined with acidity. Not for long aging, it’s ready to drink now. Stacole Fine Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $17

85 Château Gamage 2009 Bordeaux Supéri-eur. Ripe and fruity, this bears its red berry fla-

vor right up front. It has richness and concentration, and the tannins give a core of dryness to this otherwise fruit-forward wine. Heidelberg Distribution. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

85 Château l’Escart 2010 Cuvée Eden (Bor-deaux Supérieur). Perfumed and fragrant,

this shows wood and fruity perfumes in harmony. It’s at-tractive, forward and ready to drink. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $19

85 Château Lajarre 2010 Bordeaux Supéri-eur. Sweet new-wood aromas introduce a wine

that is soft and vanilla-flavored, with a gentle weight of fruit. It is warm, rounded and likely to age quickly. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $13

85 Cru Monplaisir 2010 Bordeaux Supéri-eur. Big and fruity, this shows its red fruits im-

mediately. It is perfumed, juicy and fragrant, and the tannins offer structure, though the fruit trumps it some-what. It’s likely to develop quickly over the next year. Martine’s Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $24

85 Kirkland Signature 2010 Bordeaux Su-périeur. Here’s a wine that, while expressing

the structure of the vintage, brings warmth and a rich blackberry flavor as well. It has a fine texture and a firm, upright feel. Ready for drinking in a year. Misa Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $7

84 Château de Lugagnac 2009 Bordeaux Supérieur. This big, powerful and tannic wine

shows a dry character that dominates the black currant and berry notes. The old wood flavors seem out of sync with the rest of the palate. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $14

84 Château Maréchaux 2009 Bordeaux Su-périeur. This dry, darkly tannic wine is all about

structure and firmness. It has weight, but the fruit is submerged under the wood and the solid tannins. Aviva Vino. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $18

84 Château Sainte Barbe 2010 Bordeaux Supérieur. No Bordeaux should clock in at

15% alcohol, and this wine shows its power in extracted tannins and licorice flavor. Its acidity helps to mitigate the heat, but the flavor of black plum juice is heavier than the structure. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $18

84 Château Vergnes Beaulieu 2009 Bor-deaux Supérieur. With new wood aromas,

this is a toast-dominated wine. The burnt character dominates fruit, leaving a bitter taste. It’s likely to re-main oaky and dry. European Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $19

83 Château Beau Rivage 2009 Bordeaux Su-périeur. This warm wine is reminiscent of vin-

tage Port. It is sweet, with dominating nut and super-ripe fruit flavors. It’s soft and gently flabby. Via Pacifica Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $25

83 Château Cluzan 2009 Bordeaux Supéri-eur. This is all fruit and no structure. The fruit

shows a superripe character, which suggests this is a wine for short-term aging. BNP Distributing. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $20

83 Château de Bel 2010 Bordeaux Supéri-eur. Juicy and fruity, this has ripeness without

much structure. This is for early drinking. Hand Picked Selections. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

83 Château le Grand Verdus 2009 Bordeaux Supérieur. This is a lightweight wine with fruit

that tastes overripe. It has a soft, fruity texture, and its gentle tannins are touched by acidity. BCI LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $14

82 Château de Lisennes 2009 Tradition (Bordeaux Supérieur). On the lean side,

this wine has an intense black-currant flavor and acidity, producing a wine that tastes mean and is not likely to age. Binny’s Beverage Depot. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $12

82 Château de Monrecueil 2011 Bordeaux Supérieur. A meat-flavored wine without

much charm, this has tannins and red berry notes, along with a strong whiff of sulfur. USA Wine West. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $7

24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013

82 Château l’Isle Fort 2009 Bordeaux Su-périeur. A flavor of black currant drop gives

this wine a sweet-tasting, overripe sensation. There is little structure and no great aging potential. Christopher Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

82 Château Recougne 2010 Bordeaux Su-périeur. This is bizarrely perfumed: It tastes

like a candy shop smells, with a note of fruit jelly. The tannins are taut, but the wine doesn’t hang together. Vintus LLC. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $19

82 Château Roc Meynard 2010 Bordeaux Supérieur. The fruit seems overripe, with a

juicy character. A core of tannins balances the palate, and a meaty flavor creeps in on the finish. Bourgeois Family Selections. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $16

82 Trocard 2009 Bordeaux Supérieur. There is an awkwardness to this wine, coming from the

overripe fruit and juicy character. It lacks structure and will likely age quickly. Spec’s. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $13

81 Château Bellevue 2010 Bordeaux Supéri-eur. This wine’s fruit is overripe, which spoils

the structure that has been built around it. Esprit du Vin. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

81 Château de la Cour d’Argent 2010 Bor-deaux Supérieur. This has loads of wood that

seems to hide the fruit. It has a bitter wood flavor of burnt toast, plus extracted tannins. J.J. Buckley Fine Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

81 Château la Verrière 2010 Bordeaux Su-périeur. This wine is all wood, with no promise

of fruit. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $20

80 Château Majoureau 2009 Hyppos (Bor-deaux Supérieur). Lean and rather dry, this

has old wood and lean fruit flavors. Wine Markets Inter-national, Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $25

80 Château Timberlay 2009 Bordeaux Su-périeur. This very ripe wine tastes of superma-

ture grapes; it’ s soft and formless. Terlato Wines Inter-national. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $20

BORDEAUX

90 Château du Lort 2009 Bordeaux. This firm, strongly tannic wine possesses all the right

weight and richness. Dense tannins push the wine for-ward, with a sweet-tasting plum note, plus acidity. For aging over 4–5 years. Luneau USA Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

90 Château La Rame 2010 Bordeaux. Per-fumed new wood aromas lead into a wine that

has its fair share of wood influence. Rich black fruit is also found, which is balanced with the toastiness. It’s ripe and likely to offer even more pleasure in the next 2–3 years. Rosenthal Wine Merchants. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $16

90 Château Rauzan Despagne 2010 Châ-teau Rauzan-Despagne Réserve (Bor-

deaux). This is a finely balanced, if still very structured wine. It has powerful tannins, but also rich, black, juicy fruits that are coming into integration. Solid and con-centrated, the wine has great potential and needs to age for at least four years. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

90 Château Tour de Mirambeau 2010 Châ-teau Tour de Mirambeau Réserve (Bor-

deaux). Wood-aged and smoky, this is a solid, firm wine. It is balanced, and its ripe fruits are already pres-ent, offering a rich experience of warm tannins and black plum fruitiness. It will broaden and soften over the next 3–4 years. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $17

89 Château Pey la Tour 2009 Bordeaux. This wine is rich and smooth, and the power of its

tannins are already integrated into the complex plum and blackberry flavors. It has a solid structure, with weight and an open feel. Dourthe USA. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $13

89 Château Pilet 2010 Bordeaux. While there are wood aromas, this has enough rich black

fruits to balance the toasty, caramel character. It is still firm and tannic, but in the next two years it will become a solid, rich wine. Integrity Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

89 Château Roustaing 2010 Vieilles Vignes (Bordeaux). An attractively balanced wine,

this shows fruitiness that’s supported by fine tannins. It’s a ripe wine, ready to drink now, with black currant juice and red plum flavors giving pleasure. MS Walker. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

89 Château Sainte-Anne 2010 Domaine du Bourdieu (Bordeaux). This is firm, smoky

and fruity—a combination that offers a rich black-fruit-ed experience. Wood flavors provide some density. Rich and perfumed, it needs to age over two years. Chartrand Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $17

89 Domaine de Valmengaux 2009 Bordeaux. This wood-aged wine is soft and rounded. It has

a ripe black-plum flavor and a generous texture, which brings out the richness of the vintage. There is a fine line of refreshing acidity on the finish. Great Signature Wine LLC. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

88 Château Buisson-Redon 2009 Bordeaux. Solidly structured, this features concentrated

tannins and powerful, ripe fruits. It has weight, and its rich black fruits are layered with acidity. Age for at least three years. Vinum Wine Importing and Distributing LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $9

88 Château de Virecourt 2010 Bordeaux. Smooth and luscious, this is full of chocolate

and blackberry flavors. It has weight, richness and ripe fruit, with dark tannins creating the firm structure. With the depth of flavor and the structure, it is going to age, though it’s also ready to drink now. A great improve-ment on past vintages from this estate. Laville Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20

88 Château Haut Mondain 2010 Grande Réserve (Bordeaux). This smooth, rich wine

brings a delicious red-fruit flavor right to the fore, pil-ing on the structure of sweet tannins. There is a smoky character and fragrant acidity. It will be ready to drink in six months. Laithwaites Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

88 Château Larroque 2010 Bordeaux. This is a ripe, rounded and firmly tannic wine. It has

weight and a dense texture, with a black plum flavor. With its fruits, sweet tannins and solid structure, it’s likely to age well over several years. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

88 Château les Arromans 2010 Cuvée Pres-tige (Bordeaux). Dense and solid, this has

dusty tannins that contrast firmly with the juicy black-berry note and the rich texture. The acidity laces through, providing freshness. This could well age for several years, but with its big fruit flavors, it is also ready to drink now. Elite Wines Import. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $15

88 Château Saint-Germain 2010 Bordeaux. Here’s a big, tannic wine, with a structure that’s

matched by the rich fruits. It is solid and chunky, with an attractive, smoky, juicy character that balances the firm texture. Age for 3–4 years. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

88 Château Sainte-Barbe 2010 Merlot de Château Sainte-Barbe (Bordeaux). This is

a firmly tannic, solid wine, with a black currant note, tight acidity and good depth of flavor. It is worth aging for 2–3 years. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Part-ners. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

88 Château Turcaud 2010 Bordeaux. Densely textured, this has firm and dark tannins. Power-

ful notes of rich berry and stone fruit give weight to this concentrated wine. This needs time to age. Sussex Wine Merchants. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $12

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88 Schröder & Schyler 2010 Chartron La Fleur Merlot-Cabernet (Bordeaux). For

full review see page 10. Best Buy. abv: NA Price: $12

88 Thunevin 2009 Bad Boy (Bordeaux). Very dense and tannic, this wine is hiding its fruit be-

hind its firm structure. It is solid, chunky and powerful, with plenty of weight that will always be dry. Needs to age for several years. MS Walker. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $30

88 Thunevin 2009 Domaine Virginie Thun-evin (Bordeaux). This is a rich and rounded

wine, and its tannins have already integrated into the soft, ripe black fruits. It has concentration and an attrac-tive juiciness for drinking after 1–2 years. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $20

88 Vignobles Chaigne et Fils 2010 Château Ballan-Larquette (Bordeaux). Big and pow-

erful tannins give this wine a dry, dense and extracted feel. Black fruits power through the structure, offering a rich experience. No shy violet, this is a wine with con-siderable concentration and aging potential. Exclusive Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

88 Vignobles Meijer 2010 Château Auguste (Bordeaux). Good structure, acidity and a

black currant note give this wine a balanced feel. It shows a fresh character that’s very fruity and attractive. Not very deep, but pleasant now. Constantine Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

87 Baron la Rose 2009 Vieilles Vignes (Bor-deaux). Smooth, wood-aged, polished and

juicy, this is an attractive, fruity Bordeaux, with red berry notes and a light tannic structure. It has some of the richness of the vintage and is ready to drink. Sovex Woltner. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $14

87 Château de la Bouyère 2010 Bordeaux. This is a fruity wine, and its black currant fla-

vor emerging right away. Next comes the bright acidity, while the tannins form a solid, dark and dry contrast. The wine needs at least two years to soften into some-thing rich. Slocum & Sons, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $10

87 Château Joinin 2009 Bordeaux. In this toasty, wood-dominated wine, the fruit is bur-

ied beneath dark, dry tannins. It has enough weight to promise a future when the elements fall into balance, so give it 4–5 years. Masciarelli Wine Co. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

87 Château La Maroutine 2009 Bordeaux. Powerful and rich, this wine tastes of black and

red berries. The ripeness of the vintage is evident, with a dense character that lends weight and concentration, while adding fresh black-currant-like acidity. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

87 Château Lagarère 2010 Bordeaux. Packed with spicy wood flavors, this is a rich, black-

fruited wine. It has a sense of structure that comes as much from the wood as from tannins. On the finish, the black-currant-like acidity kicks in. Serge Doré Selec-tions. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

87 Château Lamothe-Vincent 2010 Bor-deaux. Ripe and juicy, this shows red fruits

and soft, broad tannins. The fruity concentration gives it a generous feel. Keep for 2–3 years, or drink sooner. Laville Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $12

87 Château le Noble 2010 Bordeaux. Solid, concentrated and chunky, the dense black fruits

surround a foursquare core of extracted dryness. Age for at least three years. Elixirs du Monde. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $18

87 Château Malbec 2009 Bordeaux. Initially, the acidity cuts through this structured effort.

Then the ripe fruits surface, creating a wine that is both rich and firmly textured. It is full in the mouth, rich and age worthy. Luneau USA Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

87 Château Moulin de Mallet 2010 Bor-deaux. With its forward acidity, this shows its

fresh side before revealing its ripe red-berry flavors. Tannins form a firm, solid base that dominates the fin-ish. Costco. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $12

87 Château Roquefort 2009 Bordeaux. In this warm and ripe effort, the flavors of red cur-

rants and plums work with the underlying tannins and acidity. This has just the right weight, making for a wine that has attractive fruitiness and light tannins. Sherry-Lehmann. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $20

87 Cheval Quancard 2009 Chai de Bordes (Bordeaux). This is a fruity effort, with a

blackberry note that is laced with attractive tannins and acids. With its smooth, ripe texture and full mouthfeel, this is already approachable. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

86 Bernard Magrez 2010 Le Bordeaux de Bernard Magrez (Bordeaux). A finely tan-

nic and structured wine, this brings out the firm edge of 2010 while also offering a generous black-currant note. It is well balanced, and the vibrant acidity on the finish lends lift. Bernard Magrez USA. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

86 Château Briot 2010 Bordeaux. Fruity and lightweight, this is softly tannic, with red fruit

flavors. It’s open and juicy, confirming that this is not a wine for more than medium- term aging. Jandell Selec-tions. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $13

86 Château La Rose du Pin 2010 Bordeaux. Fragrant and fruity, this has red berry notes that

bond easily with the soft tannins. A mere touch of wood

spice gives the wine an extra edge. Fruity and ripe, ready to drink soon. Tenzing Wine and Spirits. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $13

86 Château les Ancres 2009 Bordeaux. For full review see page 10. Best Buy.

abv: 12.5% Price: $12

86 Château les Vergnes 2009 Bordeaux. With its strong tannins, the dark and dry side of

this wine dominates. But the weight of the blackberry fruit follows behind, promising a richer, rounder future after 2–3 years of aging. Allied Importers. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $13

86 Château Nicot 2009 Bordeaux. This has ripe red fruits, with a fine line of acidity cutting

through its rich texture. It is full and fruity, and the tan-nins act as good support for the forward fruit flavors. Fine Vines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $13

86 Château Portillon 2010 Bordeaux. This fruity wine is attractive, soft and ready to drink.

It has lifted acidity, a black currant flavor, and a fine spicy character. Ready to drink. Michael Corso Selec-tions. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $14

86 Château Sainte-Barbe 2010 Merlot (Bor-deaux). A rich but well balanced wine, this fea-

tures ripe flavors and integrated tannins. A juicy black-currant note sits with the dusty structure, with fragrant acidity on the finish. The Château Sainte-Barbe is at the end of the promontory that lies between the Dordogne and Garonne Rivers just before they meet. Pierre Cour-durie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $13

86 Château Tour Chapoux 2010 Bordeaux. In this soft, ripe wine, the structure is comfort-

ably buried in the rich black fruits. It’s warm, ripe and spicy, with a line of acidity coming through on the finish. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $13

86 Château Vieux Manoir 2010 Bordeaux. A wine from the Entre-deux-Mers region of

Bordeaux , this is light, fruity and fresh in character. Its red berry flavors dominate, with acidity providing a fine counter-balance to the ripe fruitiness. Roanoke Valley Wine Company. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $10

86 Cheval Quancard 2009 Réserve (Bor-deaux). A soft and ripe wine, this is dominated

by round, juicy Merlot. It’s a fruity selection, with soft tannins that add just enough structure to the open and drinkable character. Ready now. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

86 Dourthe 2010 Bordeaux. Firm wood and mint flavors push through the ripe black-currant

note, producing a wine that has both structure and fruit. It’s ready to drink, although it could age a year. Thiénot USA. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013

86 Exem 2010 Bordeaux. This fruity, ready-to-drink selection is packed with black currant

and berry flavors that are ripe and structured. The wine has some firm tannins, though its perfumed character makes it ready to drink now. Winesellers Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

85 Barton & Guestier 2010 Bordeaux. This wood-laden wine has a black currant note and

a fragrant, spice-driven character. These elements ac-company fine structure and intense acidity. Drink this fruity wine now, or age it for one year. Barton & Gues-tier USA. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

85 Bernard Magrez 2009 Réserve de la Famille (Bordeaux). Soft, juicy, sweet-tasting

fruit produce a ripe and rounded character. This blend-ed Bordeaux, from Bernard Magrez, is rich, offering a blackberry note and gentle tannins that are surrounded by a generous texture. Bernard Magrez USA. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

85 Château Cinc-Hilhs 2009 Bordeaux. On the lean side, this is a tense, severe wine that of-

fers few flavors at this stage. It’s hard, and the wood and tannins dominate the fruit. It’s always likely to be firm, although an attractive smokiness will become pleasant in 2–3 years. Aviva Vino. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $16

85 Château de Fontenille 2010 Bordeaux. Ripe and spicy, this is an attractive package of

warm tannins and red berries. This wine has a solid, dry core, but it will develop fast—delicious within a year. Stacole Fine Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $14

85 Château Lauduc 2010 Classic (Bor-deaux). Ripe and juicy, this wine has good

acidity that accompanies the attractive, seemingly sweet tannins. Concentrated, it needs several years to broaden out. Zachy’s. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $16

85 Château le Moulin de la Jaumarde 2009 Bordeaux. This is a structured wine, with dry

tannins and notes of berry and red cherry. The fruit comes through the smoky character, bringing sweet-tasting acidity. Give this wine 3–4 years to age. Majestic Wines INC. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

85 Château Montet 2009 Bordeaux. This wine is on the lean side, with a black currant flavor,

tight tannins and intense acidity. Although it shows fruitiness, the main thrust is severe. Total Wine & More. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $10

85 Château Pey la Tour 2010 Bordeaux. Fruity and rather soft, this already shows ma-

turity. It’s an attractive, red-fruited wine that’s light and fragrant. Not for aging. Dourthe USA. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $13

85 Château Roc de Ségur 2010 Bordeaux. This is tight and closed, with bitter tannins. It

takes a while for the red berry flavor to surface, offer-ing a wine that has potential for richness in 3–4 years time. It will always have a final, mineral-driven tautness. Youngs Market Co. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $12

84 Augey 2011 Bordeaux. Young and fruity, this wine can be enjoyed now for its fruitiness

or aged over 2–3 years. The attractive black-currant fla-vor is pleasant now. DBA Prestige Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

84 Baron Philippe de Rothschild 2010 Mou-ton Cadet (Bordeaux). This is a toasty, black-

currant-fruited wine. Its structural tannins give a dry character. A touch of green herb and a hard edge of toast indicate that the wine needs another year to soft-en. Constellation Brands, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

84 Bernard Magrez 2010 Maison Magrez (Bordeaux). A textured wine, this has ripe

fruit that still shows a green, herbal character. It has weight and a ripe black-currant flavor, plus juicy acid-ity and soft tannins. Ready to drink. Bernard Magrez USA. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $10

84 Château Beauregard-Ducourt 2010 Bor-deaux. In this hard-edged wine, structure pre-

cludes the fruit from surfacing. There is a black currant element, but the tannins are likely to always dominate this firm, austere selection. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

84 Château Bel Air Moulard 2009 Bordeaux. Dark and structured, dense and tannic this has

considerable structure, but it’s unlikely to age. Eastern Wine Distributors. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

84 Château Chaubinet 2011 Bordeaux. With a blackberry flavor and a juicy character, this is

a wine that has a bright, fresh feel and soft tannins. Me-trowine Distribution. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $12

84 Château Gabaron 2010 Bordeaux. An herbal wine, with a light in texture, this Bor-

deaux has smoke and tobacco aromas that make it bright and ready to drink. Screwcap. Authentique Vin. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

84 Château Garrineau 2009 Bordeaux. This attractive, fruity wine has soft tannins and a tex-

ture that is dominated by spice and fruit notes and acid-ity. It has a juicy red-cherry finish. Malbec & Malbec Cellars. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $13

84 Château Pasquet 2010 Bordeaux. In this toasty wine, the wood smothers the fruit and

adds a burnt character. It feels austere, not one to easily reveal its treasures. Bacchus Imports, Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $16

84 Les Hauts de Lagarde 2011 Bordeaux. This exhibits stalky fruit, with some weight be-

hind it. A black currant flavor dominates, with a ripe, jammy feel. For short-term aging. Natural Merchants LLC. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $13

84 Sirius 2009 Bordeaux. There is a mineral-ly texture to this structured, severe wine. It has

some weight, but it shows a stalky black-currant flavor and dry tannins. The finishis lean. Maison Sichel. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

83 Château des Combes 2010 Bordeaux. This lightweight wine is dominated by juicy

red fruit. Fresh in character, it has bright acids and soft tannins. Not a wine for aging. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

83 Château Grands Bois 2009 Bordeaux. This is a dense, wood- and tannin-laden wine.

It’s hard, with a dry and unyielding structure. In one year, it should be more generous. Wayne Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $13

83 Château le Bergey 2010 Bordeaux. This perfumed wine is tough on the palate. It has a

firm, dry core, surrounded by red-currant-driven acid-ity. The finish is out of balance. Eno a Mano. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $10

83 Vignobles Pueyo 2009 Tellus Vinea (Bor-deaux). Dry and tannic initially, the wine

opens up to reveal a soft, fruity character. It is still com-pact, with some bitterness from overextraction. Rosen-thal Wine Merchants. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

82 Château du Pin 2009 Bordeaux. This smells and tastes like cherry Powerade—soft

and merely fruity. Not for aging. Stacole Fine Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

82 Château la Freynelle 2009 Bordeaux. Fruity and without structure, this wine is soft

and feels rather dilute. The red fruits dominate and will age quickly. Screwcap. Winebow. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $14

82 Château Lafont Fourcat 2010 Bordeaux. This firm, dry wine is all tannins and bitter ex-

traction. It has a hard side to it that the juicy fruit cannot balance. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $20

82 L’Esprit du Couvent 2010 Bordeaux. In this herbaceous wine, the aromas are less at-

tractive than the smooth, wood-aged fruit flavors. There is, however, an edge of green bell pepper that suggests underripe fruit. Bayfield Importing Ltd. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

81 Château Tire Pé 2009 Bordeaux. Meat and bacon aromas introduce a wine that is taut,

structured and high on the acidity. It has a lean, slightly

WineMag.com | 27

dirty taste, which is not attractive. Jenny and François Selections. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $16

CADILLAC CÔTES DE BORDEAUX

89 Château Tanesse 2010 Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux. New-wood flavors abound in this

firmly structured, dry wine. With its tannins at the fore, plus its heavy toast and sweet-tasting black-fruit flavors, it has weight and density. This is likely to age well over 3–4 years. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

88 Château de Lestiac 2010 Cuvée Prestige (Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux). Prestige

here seems to mean “pile on the wood,” because this is an oak-laden wine. It’s heavy on the toast note, mak-ing it taste almost burnt. The tannins are still bitter, and they need time to soften. However, the fruit is there, with the promise of becoming dense. Serge Doré Se-lections. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

BORDEAUX ROSÉ

86 Château Larroque 2011 Bordeaux Rosé. This is fruity, fresh and crisp. Its red fruit and

citrus touches are lively and bright, providing just the right amount of texture on the finish. This is the perfect apéritif rosé. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

86 Chateau le Grand Verdus 2011 Bordeaux Rosé. An attractively fragrant rosé, this is very

crisp and clean. It has lively raspberry and red currant flavors that are lightly touched by a herb note. A bright finish completes this refreshing wine. BCI LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

85 Château Briot 2011 Bordeaux Rosé. Warm and rounded, this is a soft, ripe rosé. The

flavors of plums and red berries roll easily around the mouth, producing a wine that is full, rich and soft. Jan-dell Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

84 Château Beauregard-Ducourt 2011 Bor-deaux Rosé. Bright and fresh, with a red fruit

flavor and a touch of caramel, this is dry, fragrant and very fruity, leaving a fine swathe of acidity on the finish. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

WHITE BORDEAUX

ENTRE-DEUX-MERS

88 Château Beauregard-Ducourt 2011 En-tre-Deux-Mers. This is a youthful, mineral-

driven Sauvignon Blanc, with gooseberry and herb notes. The texture is still young and tight, and it needs a few more months to open generously, yet it’s already

showing an attractive, refreshing fruitiness. Baystate Wine & Spirits. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $13

88 Château les Arromans 2011 Entre-Deux-Mers. This rich, ripe and fruity wine features

white fruits, a soft texture and balanced acidity. With the rounded texture, it feels warm, though the Sauvi-gnon Blanc also provides the essential herbaceous edge. Age for a few months. Elite Wines Import. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

87 Château de Fontenille 2011 Entre-Deux-Mers. Crisp, clean and fruity, this refreshing

wine has an herb note that’s restrained by ripe orange and green apple flavors. Bright and ready to drink. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

87 Château la Grande Métaire 2011 Cuvée la Chapelle (Entre-Deux-Mers). Deliciously

crisp, this wine expresses herbaceous fruit, with weight and richness. Full of lime, gooseberry and grapefruit flavors, this is a taut wine that’s likely to soften. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

87 Château La Mothe du Barry 2011 Entre-Deux-Mers. Very herbaceous and fruity, this

has gooseberry, lime and pink grapefruit flavors. It’s a light, bright and attractive, and it will be ready to drink in a few months. Elite Wines Import. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

86 Cheval Quancard 2011 Cuvée Clémence (Entre-Deux-Mers). Spicy wood aromas make

this an attractive wine. It has nutmeg and pear flavors, livened by crisp acidity and a touch of herbaceousness. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $13

GRAVES

90 Château du Seuil 2011 Graves. With its smooth combination of toast and yellow fruit

notes, this goes beyond the typical herbaceous Sauvi-gnon Blanc character. It’s a wine wine that is full and se-rious, deserving to be aged for at least three years. APS Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $25

90 Château du Seuil 2010 Graves. This is a ripe, wood-aged wine, with its smooth texture

softening the natural herbaceous exuberance of young Sauvignon and Sémillon. Juicy and laced with citrus and gooseberry notes, it also has a touch of toast that adds good richness and gravity. Age for 3–4 years for maximum effect. APS Wine & Spirits. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $25

89 Château Haut Selve 2011 Graves. This fruity, wood-aged wine has plenty of poten-

tial. Its stone fruit flavors are full and rich, a contrast to the herbaceous edge. A smooth texture is just show-

ing through. Keep for 2–3 years. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

87 Barton & Guestier 2011 Graves. This fine, oily-textured wine strikes a good balance be-

tween an herbaceous character and a firm, mineral tex-ture. A touch of spice adds further interest on the finish. Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

86 Château l’Avocat 2011 Graves. In this soft wine, a herbaceous character evolves into ripe

yellow- and white-fruit flavors. It’s crisp and clean, yet it has a soft texture that’s full and rich. It is not for aging and will be ready in six months. Screwcap. K&L Wine Merchants. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

85 Château des Perligues 2011 Graves. Her-baceous in character, this also shows a creamy

edge. Notes of ripe apples blend with touches of citrus fruits. A yeasty note spoils the purity of the fruit, but it’s likely to disappear as the wine ages for a few months. Roanoke Valley Wine Company. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $13

85 Château Toumilon 2009 Graves. Once you get past the sulfur aroma, this wine shows some

richness, offering a melon note that’s cut through with lemony acidity. It’s now ready to drink. Table & Vine. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

BORDEAUX BLANC

91 Château Ducla 2011 Experience (Bor-deaux Blanc). This spicy wine is produced by

the Mau family. It has an attractive cinnamon element, a touch of toast, and a concentrated texture that brings out a tropical fruit character. Rich and perfumed, this has a great note of ginger snap on the finish. Victoire Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $19

91 Château Haut Grand Champ 2011 Bor-deaux Blanc. This is a rich wine that’s full of

apricot, melon and pear flavors. It has weight, ripe fruit and a good touch of minerality, with a clean and crisp finish. Age this for a year or two. Victoire Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $13

91 Château Turcaud 2011 Cuvée Majeure (Bordeaux Blanc). At this stage, strong wood-

influenced flavors dominate the fruit of this smooth-tex-tured wine. It has the weight to stand up to the wood, so expect this wine to develop into a rich, creamy, lightly spicy wine in 2–3 years. Laville Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $23

90 Château de la Vieille Tour 2010 Heritage (Bordeaux Blanc). A fresh yet spicy wine, this

is rich and toasty, showing a strongly zingy texture. With its notes of citrus, spiced apricot and its fresh acidity,

28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013

this could age for several more months. Dendor Wine Management. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $30

90 Château des Gravières 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. Rich and fruity, this has fine red-cur-

rant and quince fruit. It’s full in the mouth, concentrat-ed, perfumed and mineral driven. Worth aging a few months. Screwcap. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

90 Château Fombrauge 2006 Blanc (Bor-deaux Blanc). A rare white wine from Saint-

Émilion vineyards, this is seriously wood-aged, showing mature toast and almond flavors, with a citrusy edge. It has weight and richness, gradually revealing peach and apricot notes while merely hinting at acidity. Bernard Magrez USA. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $29

90 Château la Freynelle 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. This is attractive, ripe and perfumed,

with white currant and quince flavors that accompany the smooth and round texture. There is a sense of toasti-ness from the vinification, which provides a spicy, rich finish. Republic National Distributing Co. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $12

90 Château Lamothe-Vincent 2011 Heritage (Bordeaux Blanc). This lightly wood-aged

wine’s toasty character is finely balanced with tropical and citrus fruits. Full and ripe, the wine has both weight and a concentrated, rich aftertaste. Laville Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

90 Château Lestrille Capmartin 2011 Bor-deaux Blanc. Kissed generously by spicy

wood, this is a smooth, ripe wine. It has some concen-trated apricot and peppered pear flavors, along with a rich, toasty finish. Age 2–3 years. Charles Neal Selec-tions. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

90 Château Tour de Mirambeau 2010 Cu-vée Passion (Bordeaux Blanc). Textured

yet full bodied, this is a rich wine from a small 17-acre estate. The toast note shows strongly, but it’s still in bal-ance, resulting in yeast and croissant flavors as well as tropical fruits. For aging over the next 2–3 years. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $30

90 Cheval Quancard 2011 Réserve (Bor-deaux Blanc). With a tropical fruit aroma of

pineapple juice and a touch of spice, this is an attractive, fragrant wine. It has good balancing acidity to accom-pany the fruitiness, making for an ultimately lively and crisp effort. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

90 Jean-Michel Cazes 2011 Michel Lynch (Bordeaux Blanc). For full review see page

9. Best Buy. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

89 Château Haut Guillebot 2011 Cuvée Prestige (Bordeaux Blanc). This ripe

wine is full of tropical and citrus fruits, with some ex-tra weight from the hint of wood. Fine and balanced, it reveals the smooth richness of 100% Sémillon. Saranty Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $10

89 Château Hoste-Blanc 2011 Vieilles Vi-gnes (Bordeaux Blanc). This is a full-bod-

ied wine with a rich texture. It has a creamy character, along with flavors of almond, toast and ripe green plum. Worth aging a year. Zachy’s. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $25

89 Château Lauduc 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. With a rich mouthfeel, this is creamy, textured,

concentrated and full of fruit. Ripe yellow fruits are well balanced with the citrus-driven character. It should age for another year. Bacchus Imports, Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $13

88 Château d’Argadens 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. This very herbaceous wine shows al-

mond, toast and a rich texture. The wine has a creamy feel, ripe in the mouth while retaining grapefruit-driv-en freshness at the end. Heidelberg Distribution. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $12

88 Château de Lugagnac 2010 Bordeaux Blanc. Ripe, spicy tropical fruits give this wine

a rich feel. There is a touch of caramel along with pine-apple and apricot flavors. It is full bodied and struc-tured, with a finish that shows acidity and a streak of nutmeg. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $13

88 Château Fayau 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. At-tractively fresh and herbaceous, this is a bright

and fruity wine. It has flavors of red currant and grape-fruit, plus a hint of gooseberry. Full and crisp, it’s a wine to drink soon. Langdon Shiverick. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

88 Château Haut Mondain 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. Strong lime and lemon zest flavors

dominate this attractive, zingy wine. It has a strong tex-ture that brings out the acidity and citrus flavors. It re-mains bright and crisp on the finish. The House Of Bur-gundy. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $12

88 Château Lamothe de Haux 2011 Bor-deaux Blanc. Round and rich, this is packed

with pear and apricot flavors, producing a full-bodied character. It has weight and a citrusy edge of acidity, with a soft, ripe finish. Bayfield Importing Ltd. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $17

88 Château Lamothe-Vincent 2011 Intense (Bordeaux Blanc). This finely balanced wine

has richness and a crisp citrusy character. It has a fine bite of lemon zest, plus concentrated herbaceousness. Screwcap. Laville Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $13

88 Château Larroque 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. Rich and round, this wine shows the natural

herbaceous character of the Sauvignon Blanc-Sémillon blend. Tamed by a warm, fat, generous feel, this has the density and structure to make it a great match for food. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $13

88 Château Lynch-Bages 2011 Blanc de Lynch Bages (Bordeaux Blanc). Catty and

herbaceous, this wine is as crisp and fresh as can be. Bright and lively, it is close to resembling the New Zea-land style. Esprit du Vin. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $41

88 Château Penin 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. Smooth and creamy, this shows touches of

wood aging and flavors of ripe apple and peach. The toast brings out an attractive spiciness, leaving a com-plex, fruity finish. Spec’s. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $19

88 Château Roquefort 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. This full-bodied wine is richly endowed

with flavors of red currants and green plums, with an orange-zest-like texture. It’s all fruit, with a zingy feel. This would make for a great bright apéritif or food pair-ing wine. Sherry-Lehmann. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

87 Baron Philippe de Rothschild 2011 Mou-ton Cadet (Bordeaux Blanc). For full re-

view see page 10. Best Buy. abv: NA Price: $10

87 Château Ballan-Larquette 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. Richly herbaceous, this wine balances

crisp fruit flavors with a creamy texture. Rounded, it shows ripe fruits as well as tight acidity. Age it for a few months. Exclusive Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

87 Château Bel Air Perponcher 2011 Bor-deaux Blanc. Soft and rich, this is a fruity and

textured wine. It has strong pear and spice flavors that complement the edge of lemon zest. This combina-tion results in a wine that is bright and fruity. Screwcap. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

87 Château de Bonhoste 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. Tight, crisp and mineral driven, this

wine has citrus fruits and a steely texture, demonstrat-ing that it needs to age for a year. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

87 Château La Maroutine 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. This round wine features flavors of trop-

ical fruit and apricot, combined with a mineral-driven texture. It is rich yet it retains a good touch of bright-ness. Ready to drink, but worth aging for a few months. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $11

87 Château La Rose du Pin 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. This attractive, ripe, yellow- and white-

fruited wine achieves a fine balance between acidity and

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full herbaceous-fruit flavors. It has a crisp texture and a touch of minerality. The finish is bright and lively. Plan-et Wine. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $13

87 Château Lamothe-Vincent 2011 Bor-deaux Blanc. This mineral-driven and white-

currant-flavored wine shows as much texture as fruiti-ness. In the future, it will show ripe yellow and pear notes, so age for a year. Laville Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $11

87 Château Montet 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. Bright crisp, and light, this is a fruity, perfumed

wine, with strong touches of grapefruit and gooseberry. It’s a straightforward wine—all fruit and freshness. Sa-ranty Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $9

87 Cheval Quancard 2011 Chai de Bordes (Bordeaux Blanc). Bright and crisp, this is a

fruity wine that’s full of citrus and red currant flavors. It has a fine tangy texture that brings out the freshness. Ready to drink as a fine apéritif. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

87 Dourthe 2011 La Grande Cuvée (Bor-deaux Blanc). Aromatic and herbaceous, this

is a fresh red-currant- and citrus-flavored wine. With textured acidity and a bright, crisp character, it is de-veloping well and it should be ready to drink in a few months. Dourthe USA. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $12

86 Chateau Couronneau 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. This is a bright, citrus-laden wine, with

a light texture that balances the tangy, nervy, minerally edge. This needs a few months to bring out the full fruit character. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $16

86 Château Coustaut la Grangeotte 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. This soft wine feels fat and

misses its fruitiness. It balances a food-friendly texture that brings out richness and weightiness. A wine that shows the sun. Victoire Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $10

86 Château la Verrière 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. A rich and ripe wine, this is full of herb

and gooseberry flavors. The feel is cool, crisp, lightly perfumed and bright. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

86 Château Timberlay 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. This attractive, crisp wine is full of ap-

ple and lime flavors and laced with a soft pear character. It’s very fruity and bright, showing some minerality in its texture. Clean and crisp on the finish. Terlato Wines International. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $20

86 Schröder & Schyler 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. Lightly herbaceous aromas lead to an

attractive, creamy wine. It has grapefruit-like acidity as

well as a ripe apple character. Fresh and fruity. Screw-cap. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $12

85 Baron la Rose 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. This fruity wine is produced by négociant Solvex

Woltner. It has a fine herbaceous touch that accompa-nies a creamy pear flavor and bright, tangy acidity. The texture is soft, finishing on a crisp note. Sovex Woltner. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $14

85 Château de la Vieille Tour 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. A crisp, bright and fruity wine, this has

a perfumed character that highlights the edgy fruit tex-ture and attractive acidity. Ready to drink now. Wine Traditions. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

85 Château de Seguin 2011 Sauvignon de Seguin (Bordeaux Blanc). For full review

see page 11. Best Buy. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

85 Château du Taillan 2011 La Dame Blanche (Bordeaux Blanc). This is a bright,

fruity, rounded wine with a soft texture. It’s full and ripe, with melon and green plum notes, plus a touch of bit-terness on the finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $20

85 Chateau le Grand Verdus 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. This herbaceous wine has a steely edge

to its citrus and apple flavors. Exuberant and fragrant, this has a crisp texture that jumps out of the glass. BCI LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

85 Château Recougne 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. Here’s a soft, round wine with a caramel

character. It feels heavy, expressing hints of apricot and mango. Screwcap. Vintus LLC. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $12

85 Château Tanesse 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. An earthy, full-bodied wine, this has ripe peach

and lime flavors. Sulfur unattractively makes a strong appearance; as the wine was just bottled, this feature may disappear in a few months. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

85 Despagne 2011 Eclat (Bordeaux Blanc). In this lightly fruity wine, apples and citrus fla-

vors come with a bright, crisp character. Ready to drink. Screwcap. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $10

84 Barton & Guestier 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. Dominated by notes of tropical fruits and apri-

cots rather than herb flavors, this is a soft and round wine. It is full on the palate and is ready to drink now. Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $10

84 Château Briot 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. This is a soft, rather unfocused, open-textured wine

that shows apple and citrus flavors. It’s ready to drink now. Jandell Selections. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $13

84 Château de Bel 2011 Aux Plantes (Bor-deaux Blanc). This soft, gentle, lightly juicy

wine has a red currant flavor. It’s perfumed and full on the palate, but it’s missing great definition. Hand Picked Selections. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

84 Château de Virecourt 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. A very herbaceous character makes this

wine seem rather thin. It’s soft and lightweight, and the lemon zest character is mildly attractive. Ready to drink. Laville Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

84 Château du Cros 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. This is a simple, fruity wine that’s herbaceous in

character. A yeasty edge produces some bitterness. Cal-vert Woodley Fine Wines & Spirits. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $13

84 Château Marac 2011 Grande Tradition (Bordeaux Blanc). Clean and fruity, this wine

is full of ripe pineapple and pear flavors. It is laced with crisp citrusy acidity, which produces a light, forward, fresh feel. Roche-Mère Wine Selections. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $17

84 Château Thieuley 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. This light and fruity effort has some crisp acidity

and simple apple and pear flavors. Drink now. Calvert Woodley Fine Wines & Spirits. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $10

83 Château de Parenchère 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. Soft and somewhat dilute, this wine is

attractively crisp but does not show great character. It’s a fine apéritif wine, light and gently fruity. Stacole Fine Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $14

83 Domaine des Maréchaux 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. This is a yeasty wine, with a definite

bread character that covers the perfumed fruit. The acidity hints at a bright, crisp underlay. Unbalanced. Aviva Vino. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $17

82 Château Belle Garde 2011 Bordeaux Blanc. This yeasty wine has a flat character that

misses out on fruitiness. Clean, but dull. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $13

82 Château Fonchereau 2010 Bordeaux Blanc. A bitter yeast flavor doesn’t do this

100% Sémillon wine any favors. It is heavy and fat, and the citrus fruits are lost along the way. Aviva Vino. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $20

82 Yvon Mau 2011 Yvecourt (Bordeaux Blanc). This tastes herbal and light on fruit,

textured with tight mineral qualities. Acidity comes through on the finish. Victoire Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $10

30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013

81 Maison Sichel 2010 Sirius (Bordeaux Blanc). An unattractive green-herb aroma is

followed by a green-pepper- and dill-flavored palate. Heidelberg Distribution. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $12

BARSAC

96 Château Climens 2009 Barsac. The superb palate boasts richness, with honey and orange

zest notes. It shows fine balance between the flavors of orange jelly and the intense botrytis-driven notes. It has a light, delicate texture and acidity. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

94 Château Coutet 2009 Barsac. Dense and rich, this wine has concentrated flavors of

botrytis and floral honey. The wine gives the impression of sweetness, with balancing acidity and a core of dry-ness. Weighty and dense, it’s likely to age. Cellar Selec-tion. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

94 Château Nairac 2009 Barsac. In this con-centrated wine, an opulent botrytis character

dominates. Notes of yellow and citrus fruits combine with a lemon-flavored honey accent to produce a wine that has both richness and intense acidity. It needs to age. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Château de Myrat 2009 Barsac. Here’s a rich wine that is developing slowly and surely.

It holds back on the botrytis character, with a bitter or-ange note that gives a dry edge to the wine’s sweetness. The finish shows acidity and a taut line of citrus. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

91 Château Doisy-Daëne 2009 Barsac. A fresh and aromatic bouquet sets off this light,

dancing style of wine. It has acidity and a lemon curd flavor, proving to be sweet and citrusy at the same time. It’s developing well. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Château Suau 2009 Barsac. This is going to be a dense wine. It has a delicious touch, with

a lemon-driven mouthfeel. It shows a fine balance of sweetness and freshness. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

SAUTERNES

96 Château Suduiraut 2009 Sauternes. The new-wood smokiness is an important element of

this creamy-textured wine. The richness bares flavors of honey, botrytis, almond and orange peel. Ripe and age worthy, this wine’s opulence is just beginning to show. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

95 Château la Tour Blanche 2009 Sauternes. This is rich, exuding delicious sweetness, with

a core of dense botrytis. An opulent, ripe apricot fla-vor accompanies the bittersweet orange and mirabelle fruit notes. The acidity, sweetness and concentration

promise a great future for this wine. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

95 Château Rieussec 2009 Sauternes. This closed, reticent wine promises to pack a rich,

generous punch in the future. Its potential shows in the botrytis flavor and the touches of smoky wood and apri-cot jelly. With this leashed power, it promises to be a very fine wine. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

94 Château Clos Haut Peyraguey 2009 Sau-ternes) This is packed with botrytis, express-

ing richness rather than pure sweetness. With its cit-rus and apricot flavors, this is a complex wine, with the structure lending the palate weight. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

94 Château de Malle 2009 Sauternes. Su-perbly ripe, this wine shows upfront botrytis

and honey flavors. At its core, it bears opulence, with depth and concentration. The open character of the wine is shot through with lemon and orange zest fla-vors. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

94 Château de Rayne Vigneau 2009 Sau-ternes. A lemon zest flavor cuts through this

delicate wine. It has lively sweetness and flavors of lem-on curd and bitter orange that lace the note of honey. There is much more concentration to come in the fu-ture. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

94 Château Guiraud 2009 Sauternes. This is a smoky, rich wine that shows evident wood ag-

ing. This feature adds weight, though the sweetness is currently muted. It is a wine with potential intensity; the fruit and acidity will emerge in several years. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

94 Château Lafaurie Peyraguey 2009 Sau-ternes. This powerful, rich wine is densely

packed with sweetness and citrus flavors. Honey and lemon notes combine with a dry core of botrytis, of-fering intensity and a complex sweet-and-sour finish. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

94 Château Lamothe Guignard 2009 Sau-ternes. Gold in color, this is a wine with notes

of spice, rich fruit and honey, which are all surrounded by intense botrytis. This is a wine that has great aging potential, and its superripeness develops slowly on the palate. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Château Doisy Védrines 2009 Sauternes. Quite closed up, this wine has weight and inten-

sity that will give concentration to the potentially ripe flavors of apricots, mandarin oranges and a twist of lem-on zest. All of these flavors are integrated with the de-veloping honeyed richness. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Château Sigalas Rabaud 2009 Sau-ternes. This wine is still very closed. That said,

its promise is in the rich, weighty texture. It shows a ripe feel, with orange and lemon freshness. On the finish, the acidity is dominant. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Château Filhot 2009 Sauternes. This ripe wine’s delicious sweetness comes from the deli-

cious honey, ripe apricot and mango flavors. Delicate acidity is balanced against these notes, giving the palate a citrusy edge. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

91 Château Lamothe 2009 Sauternes. This features a light touch of acidity and a lemon

note. It is still developing, with a ripe background of yel-low fruit and orange jelly still to show. The finish shows the delicate side of the wine. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Bernard Magrez 2010 Château La-trezotte La Sauternes de Ma Fille (Sau-

ternes). Ripe and luscious, this is made almost entirely from Sémillon. Its rich texture is packed with flavors of honeyed apricots and sultanas. A hint of toast is fully absorbed into this intensely sweet wine, and the final citrusy edge adds a fine, contrasting point. Bernard Magrez USA. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

87 Barton & Guestier 2010 Sauternes. Yel-low fruit and honey aromas give this wine a fine,

perfumed start. The palate is sweet, with an edge of boytrytis. Fragrant honey and peach flavors come with a line of acidity. Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

87 Château Gravas 2010 Sauternes. This is an attractive, relatively light Sauternes. It has a

fine botrytis character that’s already well integrated with the orange peel and honey flavors. Not for aging; ready to drink. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

RHÔNE

CROZES-HERMITAGE BLANC

92 Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2010 Domaine Mule Blanche (Crozes-Hermitage). This blend

of Marsanne and Roussanne comes across as something of a hybrid between Hermitage and Burgundy. It has grilled peach, citrus and smoke notes, ample weight and a long, hazelnut-tinged finish. Drink it over the next 6–8 years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $42

91 Cave de Tain 2010 Les Hauts d’Eole (Crozes-Hermitage). An old-vine blend of

Marsanne and Roussanne vinified in oak, this is full bodied and powerful, with ample smoke and toast notes framing a subtle melon tone, underscored by a hint of crushed stone. Delicious now, but it would also be inter-

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esting to taste in 3–4 years. Cognac One, LLC. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

90 Les Vins de Vienne 2010 Crozes-Hermit-age. This is not a particularly flavorful or aro-

matic wine, but it succeeds nonetheless because of its creamy texture and admirable weight on the palate. It does deliver nuanced and restrained notes of melon, cit-rus, fennel and crushed stone, all of which mingle easily on the long, mouthwatering finish. Best now and over the next few years. Multiple U.S. importers. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $27

90 M. Chapoutier 2010 Les Meysonniers Marsanne (Crozes-Hermitage). Full bod-

ied, flamboyant and opulent, this is a ripe, exotic ren-dering of 100% Marsanne. Honey, apricot and manda-rin orange notes ease slowly over the palate, finishing with a lush richness that suggests drinking over the near term. Terlato Wines International. —J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $36

88 Cave de Tain 2010 Crozes-Hermitage. This offering, from the fine cave cooperative

in Tain l’Hermitage, is 100% Marsanne. Subtle smoke and peach elements mark the nose, while the palate is medium-full in body and displays restrained apricot and wet stone notes. Drink now. Cognac One, LLC. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $19

86 M. Chapoutier 2010 Petite Ruche (Crozes- Hermitage). Chapoutier’s main cuvée of white

Crozes is a pleasant, medium-bodied wine, built around a core of melon and pear flavors. An herbal note remi-niscent of fennel makes an appearance before the wine thins out a bit on the finish. Terlato Wines International. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $27

OTHER WHITE WINES

91 Pierre Henri Morel 2010 Laudun Blanc (Côtes du Rhône Villages). Pierre Henri

Morel is Chapoutier’s general manager, but he also has his own line of wines that can often represent excellent value. This blend of Grenache, Clairette and Bourbou-lenc is full bodied and rich, toasty and smoky with oak influence and well endowed with peach and pineapple fruit. Drink it over the next year. Massanois Imports. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $20

90 Château du Trignon 2010 Roussanne (Côtes du Rhône). It’s unusual to find 100%

Roussanne wines, but this is a terrific example at a real-istic price. It’s broad and mouth-coating but still seems fresh, with melon, pear and pineapple flavors that linger on the tightly focused finish. Drink over the next year or two. David Milligan Selections. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

89 Philippe Borlais 2010 Tête du Rhône (Côtes du Rhône). For full review see page

9. Best Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

88 Delas Frères 2010 Saint-Esprit (Côtes du Rhône). Winemaker Jacques Grange pro-

duces relatively small quantities of this blend of 70% Grenache and 10% each of Bourboulenc, Clairette and Viognier. It’s moderately weighty, but also refreshing, with bright notes of pineapple, star anise and balsam fir. Drink it over the next six months. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

87 Domaine de la Berthète 2010 Sensation (Côtes du Rhône Villages). Made with 80%

Grenache Blanc, this is a wine intended for early drink-ing. It’s already beginning to show some evolution to-ward increased breadth on the palate and almondy nut-tiness but retains enough honeydew and citrus inten-sity to remain very enjoyable over the next few months. Bourgeois Family Selections. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

ROSÉS

88 Château Guiot 2011 Rosé (Costières de Nîmes). This deep-colored blend of Grenache

and Syrah seems more like a light red than a true rosé. Cherry and crushed stone notes dominate, and there’s a welcome hint of texture on the palate that would work well with burgers or steak. Drink up. Robert Kacher Se-lections. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

88 Mas Carlot 2011 Tradition Rosé (Costières de Nîmes). Bold flamingo-pink in

color, this fruit-driven rosé is a blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah. Berry and cherry flavors mingle easily, while the wine carries enough weight to pair with sim-ple grilled foods like chicken or hamburgers. Drink up. Robert Kacher Selections. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

87 Mas des Bressades 2011 Cuvée Tradition Rosé (Costières de Nîmes). This medium-

bodied, silky-textured rosé features modestly confected aromas of bubble gum and cotton candy, which give way on the palate to vinous notes of cherry and wet stone. Drink up. Robert Kacher Selections. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

86 Domaine de la Petite Cassagne 2011 Rosé (Costières de Nîmes). This fits the

stereotype of pale rosé precisely, with a certain lean quality to the palate, citrusy fruit and a crisp, clean fin-ish. Drink up. Robert Kacher Selections. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $10

CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE

95 André Brunel 2009 Les Cailloux (Châteauneuf- du-Pape). The 2009 Les

Cailloux is a classically built Châteauneuf that should age well through at least 2025. The blend of 65% Grenache , 20% Mourvèdre, 12% Syrah and 3% Cinsault starts off with lovely notes of wild thyme and dark fruit, then adds herbal complexity and chocolaty richness. It’s full bodied yet firm, with some dusty but elegant tannins on the finish. It’s excellent now, but will

be even better in 2016 and beyond. Robert Kacher Se-lections. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $60

94 Domaine du Pegau 2009 Cuvée Réservée (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Prices for this es-

tate’s wines have skyrocketed, but there is no doubting the quality in the bottle. The 2009 Cuvée Réservée is a huge wine, overflowing with intense black cherry and plum flavors to the point of seeming a bit sweet. Yet it’s all framed by strong yet softly dusty tannins that should see it age well for at least 15 years. Hand Picked Selec-tions. Cellar Selection. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $111

93 Clos de L’Oratoire des Papes 2009 Châteauneuf- du-Pape. The Ogier firm,

which controls this property, has made great strides re-cently. This is full bodied and silky in texture without being overly soft, and it boasts complex, well-integrat-ed, interleaving notes of dark fruit, mocha, spice and earth. Drink 2015–2025. Classic Wines Of California. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $28/375 ml

93 Domaine Font de Michelle 2009 Châteauneuf- du-Pape. This starts off attrac-

tively, with a lifted raspberry aroma and just a tiny touch of mint. The red fruit presence expands on the palate, hitting notes of cherry and raspberry and adding hints of spices, like cinnamon and clove. It’s full bodied yet sup-ple, with a long, dusty-textured finish that bodes well for aging over the next decade or two. Robert Kacher Selections. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

93 Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2009 Domaine de Terre Ferme (Châteauneuf-du-Pape).

Jaboulet has been investing heavily in recent years, and the terrific 2009 Terre Ferme is one of the pay-offs. It’s meaty and plummy on the nose, with an ex-pansive, plush mouthfeel. Plum and black cherry flavors work well with the leather and cedar notes, while the finish lingers, picking up hints of cinnamon and licorice. Drink 2015–2025. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —J.C. abv: 15% Price: $100

93 Tardieu-Laurent 2009 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. T-L has three cuvées of Châteauneuf,

and while this is the least expensive, it’s also the most enjoyable now. A hint of sweaty horse blanket may put off some tasters, but this full-bodied, lushly textured wine features ample raspberry and cherry flavors, copi-ous spices and a long, softly dusty finish. Drink it over the next 5–8 years. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $56

92 Domaine de Nalys 2009 Le Châtaignier (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Le Châtaignier is

a luxury cuvée of the domaine’s oldest vines, approxi-mately 96% Grenache and 4% Mourvèdre. Bright red fruit flavors of raspberry and cherry are complement-ed by coffee and chocolate notes (the wine spends four months in oak). For a 2009, it’s crisp and on the firm

32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013

side, so give it until next year, and then drink it through 2025. Frank-Lin International. —J.C. abv: 15% Price: $68

92 Domaine du Pegau 2008 Cuvée Laurence (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Boasting notes of

dried flowers and herbs in its bouquet, this is a silky, elegant rendition of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. There’s a sense of wet-stone minerality, along with notes of dried black fruit and dark chocolate. Licorice comes through on the lengthy finish. Hand Picked Selections. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $113

92 Domaine la Mereuille 2009 Les Baptau-rels (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). An oak-aged

cuvée, this wine nevertheless exhibits tremendous fruit. An aroma of brandied black cherry leads the way along with hints of cinnamon and menthol, picking up notes of vanilla and cedar on the palate. This big wine boasts a velvety texture and plenty of finesse, although the ce-dary note stands a little apart on the finish. Give it an-other 2–3 years of cellaring. Good Company Wines. —J.C. abv: 15% Price: $96

92 Louis Bernard 2009 Domaine La Crau des Papes (Châteauneuf-du-Pape).

Lush and mouth-filling, this is a plummy rendering of Châteauneuf- du-Pape that’s ready to drink. Hints of green peppercorn and mocha add nuance, while the finish is long and voluptuous. Boisset Family Estates. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 15% Price: $44

92 Tardieu-Laurent 2009 Vieilles Vignes (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). This is a rugged,

firmly tannic rendering of Châteauneuf-du-Pape that requires time in the cellar to reach its full potential. That said, it may also pose a risk, because there are hints of Band-Aid on the nose and a slightly metallic edge to the finish that may worsen over time. The other flavors are potent and concentrated: plum, chocolate and lico-rice all leave lasting impressions on the palate. Try af-ter 2016. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Cellar Selection. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $77

92 Vignerons de Caractère 2009 Roque Co-lombe (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). From the

cave cooperative located in nearby Vacqueyras, this is a full-bodied, plushly textured wine that manages to avoid being too soft. Black cherry and garrigue notes are joined by hints of licorice and mocha on the long, layered finish. Drink now–2020. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $41

91 Domaine Font de Michelle 2009 Cuvée Etienne Gonnet (Châteauneuf-du-Pape).

This is the estate’s top cuvée, made primarily from cen-tury-old Grenache vines. It’s definitely concentrated, boasting punched-up levels of red plum and cherry. It’s brash and intense, with peppery, herbal notes above and leathery notes below that add complexity. Give it at least five years in the cellar. Robert Kacher Selections. Cel-lar Selection. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $80

91 Les Vignes d’Alexandre 2009 Châteauneuf- du-Pape. A decent value in

the upward-spiraling world of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, this 2009 offers pungent scents of tobacco and damp earth, then dark, meaty notes and dried fruit flavors. It’s creamy in texture and full bodied, with a softly tannic finish. Drink now–2020. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —J.C. abv: 15% Price: $45

90 Clos Saint Michel 2009 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This is a solid example of entry-lev-

el Châteauneuf-du-Pape. A cherry note is accented by hints of garrigue and chocolate, and the wine is rich-ly textured, ripe and full bodied. Drink this blend of 40% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 30% Mourvèdre over the next several years. Deutsch Family Wine & Spir-its. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

90 E. Guigal 2006 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Be-cause of Guigal’s practice of extended élevage

prior to bottling, the wines are often ready to drink when released. That’s certainly the case with this bal-anced, supple Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It’s meaty and chocolaty, with a silky texture and lingering finish. Drink now–2018. Vintus LLC. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $50

90 Famille Quiot 2008 Les Combes d’Arneval Lieu-Dit Arnavès (Châteauneuf-du-Pape).

This is ready-to-drink Châteauneuf. A charming rasp-berry flavor mixes easily with a dried herb note, while the tannins are supple and the texture is creamy. Drink it over the next 5–6 years. David Milligan Selections. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

90 Sélection Laurence Féraud 2009 Châteauneuf- du-Pape. In addition to being

the owner of Domaine de Pégaü, Féraud has a small but successful négociant business. This offering, which ap-pears to come from the Versino estate (Bois de Boursan ) is limited to only 500 bottles, bursting with cranberry and pomegranate flavors and aromatic Christmas spic-es. It’s silky in texture, with just a touch of sweaty leather on the finish. Hand Picked Selections. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $69

89 Domaine la Mereuille 2007 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Full bodied and silky, like so many

of the 2007s from the Southern Rhône, this has already reached maturity. Notes of dried cherry, cinnamon, clove and chocolate all come together in a very drink-able package. Good Company Wines. —J.C. abv: 15% Price: $57

89 Louis Bernard 2009 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Remember when all Châteauneufs were

priced like this? Now this is entry-level pricing, yet the wine is very good, delivering a complex, harmonious blend of leather, earth, spice and plum notes. It’s soft enough to drink now and over the next few years. Bois-set Family Estates. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

89 Tardieu-Laurent 2009 Cuvée Spéciale (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Superripe in style,

this 100% Grenache bottling boasts hints of raisined fruit and chocolaty richness but also notes of beetroot and alfalfa. This is full bodied, loaded with chewy tan-nins that turn drying and astringent on the finish. Its future evolution seems uncertain. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $72

88 Skalli 2008 La Tiare du Pape (Châteauneuf- du-Pape). Leather and ce-

dar aromas frame dried fruit and vanilla shadings in this full-bodied yet supple wine. The vanilla, cedar and cherry flavors don’t particularly speak to the wine’s ori-gins but still make for an easy-drinking mouthful. Drink it over the next few years. Skalli Family Wines. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

SOUTHERN ITALY

GRECO DI TUFO

88 Donnachiara 2011 Greco di Tufo. This beautiful Greco opens with clean and polished

aromas of citrus, pear, peach and talc powder. It shows impressive structure and length in the mouth. Michel-angelo Selections. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $18

88 Feudi di San Gregorio 2011 Greco di Tufo. For full review see page 9.

abv: 13% Price: $20

87 Vinosia 2011 L’Ariella Greco di Tufo. This is a bright Greco, with subdued aromas of stone

fruit, melon and honey. It shows very nice richness and consistency overall. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

FIANO DI AVELLINO

89 Feudi di San Gregorio 2011 Fiano di Avellino. For full review see page 8.

abv: 13% Price: $20

87 Vesevo 2011 Fiano di Avellino. This zesty, almost spicy white wine opens with citrus, hon-

ey and crushed white-pepper notes on the bouquet. There’s a very subtle, almost invisible touch of sweet-ness that renders the finish slightly round. Vin Divino. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $25

86 Villa Raiano 2011 Fiano di Avellino. This shows a dry and dusty personality, with subdued

fruit tones of pear and Golden Delicious. In the mouth, the wine holds its own thanks to its naturally creamy consistency. Bacchanal Wines. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

BENEVENTANO

87 Donnachiara 2011 Falanghina (Beneven-tano). Citrus, honey and cantaloupe notes

open the bouquet of this food-friendly white wine. The

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mouthfeel shows acidity without being sharp or sour. Michelangelo Selections. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $16

87 Villa Raiano 2011 Falanghina del Beneventano. A fragrant Falanghina, this

opens with a bright flower aroma, followed by honey and peach notes. There are touches of citrus and spice on the finish. Bacchanal Wines. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

87 Vinosia 2011 Falanghina (Beneventano). This pretty wine opens with fresh aromas of

melon, stone fruit and fragrant honeysuckle. This ex-pression offers more richness and intensity than many of the Falanghinas available today. Domaine Select Wine Estates. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $14

86 Vesevo 2011 Falanghina (Beneventa-no). This has a bright and informal quality that

would make this fresh white wine a perfect partner for light seafood. Easy, informal and beautifully crisp. Vin Divino. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $16

SANNIO

88 Capolino Perlingieri 2011 Nembo Fia-no (Sannio). This lovely expression of Fiano

would match well with grilled ahi tuna or sushi. It shows impressive depth, with loads of pear, citrus and Golden Delicious. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

87 Feudi di San Gregorio 2011 Falanghina (Sannio). For full review see page 9.

abv: 13% Price: $16

86 Capolino Perlingieri 2011 Preta Falanghi-na (Sannio). This is a lean, compact expres-

sion of Falanghina, opening with bright citrus, pear and kiwi aromas. It delivers fresh acidity and a bright, easy-going personality. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

SALENTO

90 Tenute Rubino 2010 Giancòla Malva-sia Bianca (Salento). Vintner Luigi Rubino

has crafted a spectacular Malvasia Bianca that bears rich and tangy aromas of peach and citrus, followed by silky smoothness and creamy, exotic fruit. Panebianco. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

85 Matané 2011 White (Salento). A perfect wine to pair with salad, grilled tuna or chicken

salad, this is fresh and crisp, with bright tones of green melon and apple. The finish is zesty and clean feeling. Vin Divino. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $10

85 Miali 2011 Lunalba Chardonnay (Salen-to). Lunalba is a slightly effervescent white

wine, with just enough bubbly perkiness to awaken your taste buds. It shows bright citrus and exotic fruits, with

a pleasant degree of softness on the palate. Rubia Di Bra Llc. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $13

OTHER WHITE WINES

92 Feudi di San Gregorio 2010 Campanaro (Irpinia). For full review see page 5. Editors’

Choice. abv: 13% Price: $33

90 Terre del Principe 2010 Le Sèrole Palla-grello (Terre del Volturno). Le Sèrole seems

intent on showing the aging potential of the little-known Pallagrello Bianco variety. This opens with an off-gold color and bright aromas of candied fruit, honey and dried apricot. The natural structure will help it last a few years longer. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $43

88 Terre del Principe 2011 Fontanavigna Pal-lagrello (Terre del Volturno). The white va-

riety of Pallagrello is a rare native grape, which is found in only a handful of spots in southern Italy. This wine shows very nice structure and creaminess, with a touch of fresh acidity on the finish. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $31

87 Cantina di Venosa 2011 Terre di Orazio Dry Muscat (Basilicata). This dry expres-

sion of Moscato from southern Italy opens with fragrant tones of white flower, peach and honey. It shows some roundness on the palate, capped by fresh acidity. Sober LLC. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $18

86 Feudi di San Gregorio 2011 White (Lac-ryma Christi del Vesuvio). Bright and citrus-

driven, this no-fuss wine would pair with grilled shrimp or freshwater fish. The wine is zesty and fresh overall. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $16

85 Bisceglia 2011 Terra di Vulcano Dry Mus-cat (Basilicata). This dry white wine opens

with aromas of acacia flower, honey and stone fruit. The lack of sweetness holds back some of the aromatic in-tensity, and the wine is easy, fresh and zesty on the fin-ish. Pair it with fried cocktail shrimp. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

85 Luccarelli 2011 Ampelo Verdeca (Pug-lia). Informal and light, this fresh wine made

from the Verdeca grape opens with easy aromas of cit-rus, honey and peach. It shows a bitter almond flavor in the mouth. Gran Sasso USA. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

85 Miali 2011 Dolcimèlo (Martina). This blend of Verdesca, Bianco d’Alessano and Fiano

Minutolo (three white grapes indigenous to southern Italy) shows a slightly oxidized style, with aromas of car-amel, peach and exotic fruit. A touch of peach cobbler appears on the finish. Rubia Di Bra Llc. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $12

82 Miali 2011 Fírr Fiano (Puglia). This Fiano is strangely redolent of pine cone. Fruit tones

of citrus and apricot are found in the wine, but they are slightly buried. Rubia Di Bra Llc. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $17

SPARKLING WINE

90 Feudi di San Gregorio 2010 DUBL Agli-anico (Campania). For full review see page

8.abv: 13.5% Price: $43

ROSÉS

89 Feudi di San Gregorio 2011 Ros’Aura (Irpinia). For full review see page 8. Editors’

Choice. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

89 Mastroberardino 2011 Lacrimarosa Agli-anico (Campania). This gorgeous rosato

shows a bright pink color, offering fresh aromas of gar-den flower, citrus and stone fruit. It shows lively acidity, with a distant tannic touch that’s barely noticeable on the palate. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $25

87 Cantine del Notaio 2010 Il Rogito (Ba-silicata). This Aglianico-based rosato opens

with a dark raspberry color, followed by aromas of for-est berry, chopped mint, candied fruit and pink grape-fruit. Smooth and velvety on the finish. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

87 Villa Matilde 2011 Rocca dei Leoni Terre Cerase (Campania). Bright and crisp, this

Aglianico-based rosato shows the soft, feminine side of this hearty red grape. Notes of wild berry and raspberry are followed by touches of almond skin and pink grape-fruit. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

86 Villa Mottura 2011 Le Pitre Rosato (Salento). An easy-drinking rosato, this has

dusty aromas of dried rose petal, stone fruit and citrus. The mouthfeel is clean, lean and crisp. Siena Imports. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $29

85 Vigneti del Vulture 2011 Pipoli Rosato (Basilicata). There are sweet-tasting notes of

wild berry and raspberry at the front of this wine, fol-lowed by fresh touches of white flower and lemon blos-som. Those feminine aromas are enhanced by an im-pression of soft sweetness. World Wide Cellars. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $12

TAURASI

94 Feudi di San Gregorio 2007 Piano di Montevergine Riserva (Taurasi). For full

review see page 3. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013

92 Donnachiara 2007 Riserva (Taurasi). This Taurasi Riserva shows the beautiful and austere

side of Aglianico, with penetrating notes of dried fruit, wet river stone, cigar box and crushed clove. It delivers structure and enough persistence to pair with stewed lamb and potatoes, and it can also be cellared for 10 years or more. Michelangelo Selections. Cellar Selec-tion. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $60

92 Feudi di San Gregorio 2008 Taurasi. For full review see page 5.

abv: 14% Price: $38

91 Di Meo 2006 Riserva (Taurasi). Aglianico grapes make powerful and tightly structured red

wines, but vintner Roberto Di Meo has tamed much of that massiveness and has produced an elegant, polished bottling instead. This shows a long aromatic evolution, with subtle tones of blackberry, prune, leather and spice that evolve with more time in the glass. Il Mercante di Venezia. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $58

91 Di Meo 2004 Riserva (Taurasi). You can’t go wrong with a beautifully bold and structured

red wine like this. Meant for cold winter nights and hearty meat dishes, this elegant Taurasi opens with lus-cious dark fruit, prune, spice and tobacco notes. The wine’s texture is fine and silky, with polished, dusty tan-nins. Il Mercante di Venezia. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

91 I Capitani 2006 Bosco Faiano (Taurasi). Bosco Faiano is a hearty, masculine wine, aged

18 months in large oak casks to deliver dark notes of dried fruit, black currant, cured meat, leather and spice. At first, this tastes bold and raw, but after a few minutes in the glass, it shows a nice evolution toward elegance. Wineberry America LLC. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $25

91 Terredora 2006 CampoRe Riserva (Taur-asi). With all the qualities needed for long cel-

lar time—structure, freshness and fruit integrity—this already shows its considerable pedigree. It delivers to-bacco, leather, black fruit and a touch of dried herb on the finish. Vias Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $60

91 Vesevo 2007 Taurasi. Here’s a unique Taur-asi that shows the elegance and brawn of the

Aglianico grape without some of its massive bulk and intensity. In fact, this is a tempered expression, with a bright fruit tone and a point of apparent sweetness on the finish. Vin Divino. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $48

91 Villa Raiano 2008 Raiano (Taurasi). Lin-ear and elegant, this bears dusty tones of gran-

ite and black fruit that accompany lingering background aromas of spice and tobacco. Dark and deeply extract-ed, the wine lasts long on the palate, expressing dark plum and cigar flavors along the way. Bacchanal Wines. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $38

90 Donnachiara 2008 Taurasi. What sets this Taurasi apart is the finesse and elegance it

shows on the finish. This hearty effort reflects many of the mineral characteristics inherent to volcanic soils. A black fruit note is followed by touches of smoke, ash, to-bacco, supported by polished tannins. Charmer Sunbelt Group. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

90 Terredora 2006 Pago dei Fusi (Taurasi). This shows unique characteristics that give it an

elegant but powerful identity. The wine is aged for two years in oak, lending it an extra note of spice and round tannins. Volcanic soils render perfumed notes of blue flower and herb, and extracted richness remains at the core of this opulent wine. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $46

90 Villa Matilde 2007 Tenuta di Altavilla (Taurasi). Driven by deeply smoky and ashy

aromas of campfire, slate and lead pencil, there’s no doubting the volcanic origins of this elegant Taurasi. The wine is etched and fine, with a smooth tannins. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $59

89 Terredora 2007 Fatica Contadina (Taura-si). Taurasi is a wine that flaunts a determined

and powerful personality, and Fatica Contadina is no exception, thanks to its deep layers of spice, dark fruit, tobacco and cigar that it delivers to the senses. On the palate, it is austere and tightly structured. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $32

IRPINIA

92 Di Meo 2004 Don Generoso Aglianico (Irpinia). As its name implies, Don Generous

doles out opulence and aromatic intensity, lingering long on the nose and palate. This is a smoky, masculine expression, with notes of lead pencil, slate, prune, cassis and spice. It delivers the essences of volcanic soil with dry and firm tannins at the back. Il Mercante di Venezia. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $120

90 I Capitani 2008 Emè (Irpinia). Emè is a beautifully balanced blend of Aglianico, Merlot

and Sangiovese. Its soft, velvety texture is spectacular, as are its generous aromas of cherry, black fruit, spice, leather and tobacco. There’s a touch of sharp freshness on the finish that pulls it all together. Wineberry Amer-ica LLC. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $20

88 Cantine di Marzo 2009 Aglianico (Irpin-ia). Don’t underestimate this wine. An Agli-

anico from Irpinia, it opens with pristine notes of black fruit, tobacco and crushed granite. The aromas are mea-sured in intensity, but the wine’s natural tannic back-bone gives it importance and staying power. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $22

88 Donnachiara 2009 Aglianico (Irpinia). This pretty Aglianico from the up-and-coming

Irpinia subzone of southern Italy delivers tightly etched tannins that are backed by soft layers of black fruit and leather. It successfully highlights the grape’s natural characteristics. Charmer Sunbelt Group. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $20

88 Feudi di San Gregorio 2011 Rubrato Agli-anico (Irpinia). For full review see page 9.

abv: 13.5% Price: $19

88 Feudi di San Gregorio 2010 Rubrato Agli-anico (Irpinia). This is nicely balanced and

easy in terms of its tannins and overall intensity, with enough structure to pair with game meat or succulent red meat. The bouquet is redolent of spice, black fruit and crushed granite. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $19

88 Vinosia 2011 Aglianico (Irpinia). Here’s a bold, ripe and chewy expression of Aglianico,

with loads of plump cherry and blackberry followed by notes of dark spice and moist pipe tobacco. The wine would pair with lamb chops or roast pork. Domaine Se-lect Wine Estates. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $13

87 Feudi di San Gregorio 2010 Dal Re Agli-anico (Irpinia). Instantly recognizable for the

eye-catching purple dot on its label, this offers a slightly austere expression of Aglianico that would pair with al-most any grilled meat dish. The soft mouthfeel is char-acterized by notes of cherry, tobacco and spice. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

87 I Capitani 2010 Guaglione Aglianico (Ir-pinia). Hearty Aglianico is blended with a

small percentage of Sangiovese to produce a tight and straightforward red wine, with sassy spice and dark fruit aromas. Pair this value wine with pizza or grilled sau-sage. Wineberry America LLC. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $13

87 I Capitani 2007 Jumara Aglianico (Irpin-ia). Jumara is a very oaky expression of Agli-

anico, with spicy background tones of cinnamon and chocolate, backed by roasted nut and cigar. There are dark fruit aromas here that will help this hearty wine evolve over the next 1–2 years. Wineberry America LLC. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $17

CAMPANIA

93 Feudi di San Gregorio 2009 Pàtrimo Mer-lot (Campania). For full review see page 4.

Cellar Selection. abv: 14% Price: $105

92 Feudi di San Gregorio 2008 Sirica (Cam-pania). Sirica is a newly discovered grape vari-

ety that is said to have genetic ties to Teroldego, Syrah and Refosco Friulano. How it ended up in Campania is anyone’s guess. Besides the beauty and purity of its cherry aroma, this bold red wine has been carefully em-bellished by spicy oak and chocolate tones. The finish is long, fresh and rich. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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92 Montevetrano 2009 Montevetrano (Cam-pania). Montevetrano is an impressive blend of

Cabernet Sauvignon (60%), Merlot and Aglianico that shows the enormous potential of red wines from south-ern Italy. It will age 10 years or more, and it already shows deeply sophisticated flavors of tobacco, dry fruit and spice. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $80

89 Di Meo 2008 A Aglianico (Campania). This wine inspires a pairing with foods that have

a sweet cheese or butter element. It is well shaped and opulent, with loads of crushed black pepper, dried fruit and dusty mineral nuances. Il Mercante di Venezia. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

88 Di Meo 2009 A Aglianico (Campania). A stenciled “A” on the bottle makes for some very

handsome packaging. The wine inside the bottle is just as successful as its label, with savory aromas of cured meat and leather, backed by black fruit and Indian spice notes. Il Mercante di Venezia. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

88 Mastroberardino 2009 Aglianico (Cam-pania). Carefully aged in oak casks, this hearty

Aglianico shows complexity and brawn, with bold notes of black fruit, spice and leather. Tightly firm tannins give it long staying power. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $30

88 Orion Wine 2010 Rocca del Dragone Aglianico (Campania). Packaged in a screw-

cap bottle, Rocca del Dragone is a sophisticated value wine with an easy approach. A sweet-tasting blackberry note is backed by firm tannins and toasted oak spice. Traditional Wine Innovations LLC. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $15

87 Di Meo 2010 Isso Aglianico (Campania). Aglianico Isso delivers leather and spice, sur-

rounded by soft contours of cherry and blackberry. The dusty tannins that characterize this grape variety appear on the finish. Il Mercante di Venezia. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $21

87 Donnachiara 2008 Aglianico (Campan-ia). You could easily imagine this wine paired

with creamy foods like oven-roasted lasagna with crusty cheese. That’s because this Aglianico has both the acid-ity and the structure to cut though such a dish, keeping the palate clean. Charmer Sunbelt Group. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $18

87 Terredora 2010 Aglianico (Campania). This bright Aglianico delivers a dark fruit aro-

ma, with touches of rum cake and dusty mineral at the back. The brightness of the acidity will refresh your tastebuds. Vias Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $13

87 Villa Matilde 2010 Tenuta Rocca dei Le-oni Aglianico (Campania). Villa Matilde

delivers well-made expressions of Aglianico year after year. This wine shows modern flair, with background tones of spice and bitter chocolate that are layered be-

hind bold cherry and blackberry notes. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $17

87 Villa Raiano 2010 Aglianico (Campania). This informal expression of Aglianico opens

with zesty, slightly green aromas of curry leaf and dried herb, with subtle hints of wild berry and cassis. The fin-ish is strongly reminiscent of crushed white peppercorn. Wines LLC. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $26

AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE

93 Cantine del Notaio 2007 Il Sigillo (Agli-anico del Vulture). Il Sigillo, which translates

to “the seal,” opens with huge intensity and balance, which sets this expression of Aglianico apart from the rest. It delivers sweet, ripe tannins and a larger-than-life mouthfeel that promises a long future ahead. The nose shows a black fruit layer, backed by spice, leather, rum cake and tobacco notes. Keep for 10 years or more. Mi-chael Skurnik Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $55

92 Basilisco 2009 Basilisco (Aglianico del Vulture). Basilisco delivers a deeply volca-

nic expression of Aglianico, with aromas of dried fruit, crushed granite, lead pencil and exotic spice. Thanks to 18 months of oak aging, it also shows supple softness and a velvety texture that gives this usually austere wine an easy approach overall. Soilair Selection. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $42

92 Bisceglia 2005 Gudarrà Riserva (Agli-anico del Vulture). This dar, dusty Aglianico

opens with enticing aromas of liquid smoke, pipe tobac-co, ash, candied fruit, leather and exotic spice. It de-livers bold, dark intensity and a long-lasting finish. It speaks highly of Basilicata, one of Italy’s most fascinat-ing and unexplored regions. Winebow. Cellar Selec-tion. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $45

92 Cantine del Notaio 2008 La Firma (Agli-anico del Vulture). La Firma, which trans-

lates to “the signature,” is a powerful wine, with bold aromatic intensity and alcoholic heat to match. It’s a brawny, masculine expression, with thick layers of spice, tobacco, prune and dried berry, capped by a sensation of fullness and sweet-tasting fruit. Its velvety, smooth mouthfeel helps balance the wine’s overall austerity. Mi-chael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

91 Cantine del Notaio 2008 Il Repertorio (Aglianico del Vulture). Il Repertorio shows

an authentic and slightly rustic personality, with flavors of candied fruit, prune, plum, lead pencil and cured meat. It delivers a polished, elegant finish. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $25

91 Lucania 2007 Bosco del Falco (Aglianico del Vulture). Sourced from 50-year-old vines,

Bosco del Falco shows inky concentration, with dusty

mineral shadings of slate, crushed granite and earth. The fruits are prune and dried berry, and the wine fea-tures tight tannins and overall complexity. Drink now, or age for five more years. Oliver McCrum Wines. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $32

91 Tenuta Le Querce 2005 Vigna della Co-rona (Aglianico del Vulture). Packaged in

a massively heavy glass bottle, Vigna della Corona is an important expression of Aglianico that deftly sets a touch of oak-derived against black fruit and prune notes. Savory flavors of wild mushroom, tobacco and smoke give the wine a masculine, brawny personality. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $86

91 Re Manfredi 2007 Serpara Aglianico (Aglianico del Vulture). A beautiful expres-

sion of Aglianico made from grapes that were sourced from the estate’s Serpara Vineyard, this is darkly con-centrated and powerful. It shows great aging potential, with dark fruit tones, natural structure and freshness. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $50

90 Feudi di San Gregorio 2009 Aglianico del Vulture. This hearty Aglianico del Vulture

show a note of soft spice and a velvety texture, followed by black fruit and dried berry aromas. The wine is aged for 18 months in French oak for extra spice and smoke highlights. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA

90 Lucania 2008 Damaschito (Aglianico del Vulture). This shows elegant and linear traits of

smoky mineral and dried berry, backed by savory layers of cured meat and leather. Having spent 18 months ma-turing in oak, this has a soft, rich approach on the palate. Oliver McCrum Wines. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $25

90 Tenuta Le Querce 2007 Rosso di Costan-za (Aglianico del Vulture). Definitely a

standout in a crowd, Rosso di Costanza shows a broad, rustic personality, with bold tannins, a textured mouth-feel and intense aromas of ripe fruit and smoke. It’s not for everyone, but if you like power and muscle, this is for you. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $41

90 Terra dei Re 2006 Divinus (Aglianico del Vulture). From beautiful vineyards on the an-

cient Vulture volcano in southern Italy, Divinus opens with savory aromas of leather and cured meat, followed by dried berry and prune. Polished tannins and tones of lead pencil and smoke indicate the wine is aging nicely. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

90 Re Manfredi 2008 Aglianico del Vulture. For full review see page 8.

abv: 13.5% Price: $37

89 Bisceglia 2008 Gudarrà (Aglianico del Vulture). This is a generous and powerful ex-

pression of Aglianico, with angular edges, tight tannins and a lasting mineral impression. There’s little fresh

36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013

fruit here, but prune and cassis are apparent. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $25

88 Basilisco 2009 Teodosio (Aglianico del Vulture). Although they are made by the same

company, this offers slightly different characteristics than the Aglianico del Vulture produced by Feudi di San Gregorio. This is a balanced and linear wine, with wild berry and spice aromas that render a sensation of brightness. Solair Selection. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $20

88 Cantina di Venosa 2008 Terre di Orazio (Aglianico del Vulture). Terre di Orazio of-

fers a compact, subtle expression of Aglianico that seems to be holding back. The aromas are subtle, with just the right intensity of fruit and spice. Sober LLC. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

88 Lucania 2010 Grifalco (Aglianico del Vul-ture). This delivers excellent value, with dark

fruit aromas, tight tannins and a lingering spice note. The wine is aged partly in oak and partly in stainless steel. It would make an excellent partner to barbecued meats. Oliver McCrum Wines. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $14

88 Tenuta Le Querce 2009 Il Viola (Agliani-co del Vulture). This opens with a jammy

fruit aroma, led primarily by blackberry preserves and prune. The tight tannins give the wine composure and solid firmness on the finish. Montcalm Wine Import-ers. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $19

88 Terra dei Re 2009 Vultur (Aglianico del Vulture). Vultur captures the essence of volca-

nic soil, expressing notes of wet earth, crushed stone, ash, tobacco and dried berry, plus dusty, firm tannins. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

88 Vigneti del Vulture 2006 Piano del Cerro Riserva (Aglianico del Vulture). Redolent

of moist pipe tobacco and exotic spice, like cardamom and clove, this is a massive wine that hits all the sens-es in full force. Dark fruit and prune notes add a light impression of sweetness to the otherwise superchewy, thick mouthfeel. Worldwide Cellars. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $30

87 Cantina di Venosa 2008 Vignali (Agliani-co del Vulture). Perfect for grilled or roasted

meat dishes, this is a well-priced and approachable Agli-anico-based wine, with soft tones of ripe fruit and tobac-co. The finish is clean and tight, with medium intensity. Sober LLC. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

87 Lucania 2010 Gricos (Aglianico del Vul-ture). Aged in large oak casks, this wine shows

bold spice and dried berry aromas, with lingering ac-cents of leather and pipe tobacco. The tight tannins give the wine structure and staying power. Oliver McCrum Wines. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

87 Vigneti del Vulture 2009 Pipoli (Agliani-co del Vulture). Spelled with a backward “P,”

Pipoli delivers dark fruit nuances of blackberry and prune, with light touches of cherry soda and raspberry at the back. There’s a subtle impression of sweetness that helps soften the grape’s tight tannins. World Wide Wines. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $16

86 Bisceglia 2010 Terra di Vulcano (Agli-anico del Vulture). It can’t be easy to turn a

hearty red grape like Aglianico into an informal, easy-drinking red. Despite the grape’s famously unyielding tannins, Terra di Vulcano has an easy approach, with notes of bright berry, dried herb and a touch of green pepper at the back. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

86 Cantine Sasso 2009 Sasso (Aglianico del Vulture). This approachable Aglianico

del Vulture is easy and bright, with a dark fruit aroma and a mineral note at the back. Pair this structured red wine with pork chops or grilled lamb. Bacchanal Wines. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $14

BASILICATA

90 Bisceglia 2008 Tréje (Basilicata). This rich blend of Aglianico, Merlot and Syrah opens

with deep and penetrating aromas of dried berry, cur-rant, black granite, leather and tobacco. It shows a tight, fine texture on the palate. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $20

88 Cantine del Notaio 2010 L’Atto (Basili-cata). L’Atto delivers delicate notes of bright

berry, spice, sweet cherry and cassis. It shows a fine, delicate quality, backed by generous fullness and power. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $20

88 Tenuta Le Querce NV Tamurro Nero (Ba-silicata). Packaged in a massively heavy bottle,

Tamurro Nero is a blend of grapes indigenous to Basili-cata. It deals spicy tones of cinnamon and sweet tobac-co, with notes of dried fruit and black cherry. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA

PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA

88 Luccarelli 2009 Pazzia (Primitivo di Man-duria). Bold and delicious, this shows a dark,

inky color, with ripe notes of blackberry, rum cake, cin-namon and nutmeg. The palate is sweet, plush and jam-my. Gran Sasso USA. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

88 Torrevento 2009 Ghenos (Primitivo di Manduria). This is a pure expression of Primi-

tivo that shows superbold and rich aromas of blackberry and blueberry, folded within a plump, chewy texture. The finish is round and soft. Philarmonica. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

87 Luccarelli 2010 Ampelo (Primitivo di Manduria). Extremely ripe, chewy and soft,

this lush Primitivo offers aromas of sweet tobacco, rum cake, cinnamon and blackberry preserves. There are touches of sweet-tasting fruit and raisin in the mouth. Gran Sasso USA. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA

86 Feudi di San Gregorio 2009 Primitivo di Manduria. Aged only in stainless steel, this is

a food-friendly offering that shows a bright ruby color, bearing sweet aromas of cherry and raspberry candy. The mouthfeel is clean, crisp and easy. Palm Bay Inter-national. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $21

86 Vigne & Vini 2008 Terre dei Trulli Pinnaco-li (Primitivo di Manduria). This exhibits per-

fumed notes of violet and dried lavender, followed by touches of cherry, rum cake and exotic spice. Southern Italy’s sun shines through the wine’s sweet, chewy finish. Wines Unlimited, Inc. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $16

SALENTO

92 Tenute Rubino 2010 TorreTesta Susuman-iello (Salento). TorreTesta demonstrates the

beauty and power of Puglia’s little-known Susumaniello grape. Enhanced by careful oak aging, the wine offers dark fruit aromas, followed by tobacco, chocolate and rum cake notes. On the palate, it is soft, plush and rich, with a mocha-tinged finish. Panebianco. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $48

91 Tenute Rubino 2010 Visellio Primitivo (Salento). Vintner Luigi Rubino represents a

new generation of young and dynamic winemakers in Puglia. This is a dark and decadent red wine, with sweet oak tones that sit behind the cherry, chocolate fudge, cinnamon and tobacco. The mouthfeel is supple, rich and long-lasting. Panebianco. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $32

88 Miali 2008 Mater Primitivo (Salento). A pure expression of Primitivo, this is aged in

large oak casks for 24 months to produce a cherry aro-ma that is in balance with the notes of toasted almond and spice. The mouthfeel is chewy, rich and bold. Rubia Di Bra Llc. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $27

88 Tenute Rubino 2011 Oltremé Susumani-ello (Salento). Youthful and bright, Oltremé

gives a new perspective to the Susumaniello grape. This demonstrates an informal style, which emphasizes the integrity of the fresh fruit flavors—cherry, blackberry and plum—which are surrounded by a soft, velvety tex-ture. Panebianco. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

88 Tenute Rubino 2009 Miraglio Negroama-ro (Salento). Negroamaro is one of the great

red wine varieties of Puglia. This expression delivers aromas of black fruit, cherry and crushed white pepper.

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It’s an easy, fresh wine with a touch of sour fruit on the close. Panebianco. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $18

88 Vigneti Reale 2010 Rudiae Primitivo (Salento). Natural characteristics of the Prim-

itivo grape include bold fruit tones of blackberry and blueberry, backed by plush sweetness and dark rich-ness. Rudiae offers all of those qualities with added spice notes from oak aging in large wooden casks. Bac-chanal Wines. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $15

88 Vigneti Reale 2009 Santa Croce (Salen-to). Santa Croce (80% Negroamaro, 20% Prim-

itivo) offers sassy, savory aromas of sandalwood, cinna-mon, nutmeg and bold cherry. On the palate, it shows medium density and an impression of fruity sweetness. Bacchanal Wines. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

88 Villa Mottura 2010 Le Pitre Negroamaro (Salento). This shows a cheerful, fruity side,

with ripe cherry and blackberry notes, backed by cin-namon and nutmeg. The mouthfeel is smooth and soft. Siena Imports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

88 Villa Mottura 2010 Le Pitre Primitivo (Salento). Smoky, ripe fruit and dark spice

notes are enhanced by bright tones of blackberry and blueberry. Pair this with potato gnocchi in meat sauce or orecchiette with smoked ricotta cheese. Siena Im-ports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

88 Villa Mottura 2009 Le Pitre Negroamaro (Salento). Founded in 1927, Villa Mottura is a

steady presence in the wine identity of Salento. This de-livers ripe fruit and bold spice notes, with a soft, chewy texture. Siema LLC. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

87 Castello Monaci 2010 Maru Negroamaro (Salento). Negroamaro Maru is characterized

by simple, sweet-tasting fruit aromas of blackberry jelly and raspberry. Those pretty fruit flavors are backed by soft tannins and a chewy texture. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

87 Castello Monaci 2009 Maru Negroamaro (Salento). Negroamaro is a signature grape

of the Salento in Italy’s deep south. The variety’s natu-ral fruitiness and freshness can stand up to the strong sunshine and heat of the region. This expression offers an especially bold and fleshy interpretation with linger-ing flavors of cherry, spice and mild tobacco. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $15

87 Feudi di San Marzano 2009 Red (Salen-to). A red blend from Salento, this bright red

offers jammy notes of blackberry preserves, black cher-ry and prune. There’s an impression of sweetness on the finish, followed by a rich, chewy mouthfeel. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $12

87 Mineo Family Vineyards 2008 Ormus Primitivo (Salento). This shows a note of

bright fruit, followed by leather, tobacco, rum cake, crushed black pepper and cured meat. The wine is sim-ple, clean and driven by ripe fruit flavors. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $19

87 Vinosia 2011 Primitivo (Salento). This Primitivo is packed with dark fruit aromas—

like prune and plum—backed by light spice and al-mond tones. The finish seems to show a cheerful spot of sweetness. Pair this with oven-roasted pasta or grilled meat. Domaine Select Wine Estates. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $13

86 Miali 2009 Campirossi Primitivo (Salen-to). Campirossi opens with slightly muddled

aromas of candied fruit, leather and almond. It shows a touch of bitterness on the finish, with lingering notes of crushed white pepper. Rubia Di Bra Llc. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $17

86 Miali 2009 Ìchore (Salento). This blend of Negroamaro and Primitivo opens with savory

aromas of cured ham, pipe tobacco, jammy fruit and prune. The mouthfeel is soft and velvety. This wine will appeal to those who enjoy a ripe, raisiny style. Rubia Di Bra Llc. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

86 Vigneti Reale 2010 Norie Negroamaro (Salento). This showcases the easy character-

istics of Puglia’s Negroamaro grape. It opens with sweet spice and jammy aromas of cherry preserves and black-berry. Bacchanal Wines. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $13

85 Miali 2008 Negroamaro (Salento). Made from Puglia’s celebrated Negroamaro grape,

this opens with a ripe fruit aroma of blackberry jam and a savory cured-meat tone. The mouthfeel is chewy, soft and slightly bitter on the finish. Rubia Di Bra Llc. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $13

84 Cortenova 2010 Primitivo (Salento). Pack-aged in a fun screwcap bottle, this easy Primiti-

vo opens with bitter almond and cherry flavors, followed by crisp fruit and citrus freshness. It would pair with grilled pork chops. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $10

84 Miali 2009 Pizzo del Vento Negroamaro (Salento). Very informal and light, this shows

fresh fruit aromas that are backed by notes of green grass and dried herb. It feels sharp and lean on the close. Rubia Di Bra Llc. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

84 Pasqua 2011 Lapaccio Primitivo (Salen-to). Lapaccio is an easy and informal expression

of Primitivo, with simple cherry and cola aromas. In the mouth, it shows a sweet-tasting red-fruit flavor. Pasqua U.S.A LLC. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

83 Miali 2010 Primitivo (Salento). This offers bright cherry and forest berry aromas, with a

tangy touch of sourness that would work with cheesy pasta dishes. Rubia Di Bra Llc. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $14

PUGLIA

88 Masseria Altemura 2011 Aglianico (Pug-lia). From the Zonin family’s brand-new win-

ery at Masseria Altemura—one of the most important wine investments made in Puglia in decades—comes this spicy, leathery expression of Aglianico. It delivers bold fruit and blackberry notes, with distant prune and tobacco accents. Zonin USA. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

88 Miali 2009 Settarte (Puglia). Primitivo (70%) and Syrah are blended to produce a full

and generous wine, with notes of blackberry, cherry soda, curry leaf and a touch of cracked black pepper. A savory herb note appears on the finish. Rubia Di Bra Llc. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $38

88 Teanum 2008 Gran Tiati (Puglia). This southern Italian blend of Aglianico, Montepul-

ciano and Syrah is aged 12 months in oak to produce a rich, plush, extracted wine. Its delicious qualities ap-proach excess, with jammy aromas of blackberry and spice. Fortunately, the mouthfeel is austere and mea-sured. Gattopardo USA LLC. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $27

87 Matané 2011 Primitivo (Puglia). This wine from southern Italy shows notes of ripe cherry,

prune, cinnamon and leather. The mouthfeel is soft and seemingly sweet, making this an excellent pairing part-ner to tomato-based pasta sauces. Empson (USA) Ltd. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

86 Torre Quarto 2009 Sangue Blu Negroa-maro (Puglia). “Sangue Blu,” which translates

to “blue blood,” offers sun-drenched aromas of ripe fruit and rum cake that are backed by tobacco and sweet Indian spice notes. The mouthfeel is textured, gritty and rich. Montecastelli Selections. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

86 Torre Quarto 2009 Tarabuso Primitivo (Puglia). This is a bold and masculine expres-

sion of Primitivo, with aromas of earth, tobacco, ripe fruit and leather. The wine seems to show some age and offers a slightly gritty texture on the palate. Montecas-telli Selections. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $18

85 A-Mano 2009 Primitivo (Puglia). Here’s a straight-shooting, cheerful expression of Primi-

tivo that would pair with simple pasta or meat dishes. It opens with a bright ruby color and lively berry aro-mas of cherry and blackberry. Underdog Wine & Spir-its. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013

85 Casalbaio 2009 Salenzio Negroama-ro (Puglia). Salenzio is the ancient word for

Salento, the area of southern Italy where the native Ne-groamaro grape thrives. This expression tastes slightly sweet and heavy, with background tones of jammy fruit and sour spice. Pair it with sausage pizza. Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

85 Cielo e Terra 2011 Primi Soli Primitivo (Puglia). A certified organic wine, this offers

easy berry aromas of cherry and raspberry that would pair with informal foods like pizza. The mouthfeel is lean and bright. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

85 Rapido Red 2011 Sangiovese (Puglia). Here’s an easy, racy and fun bottle of red wine

to pack away in a picnic basket or to enjoy with friends at an outdoor barbecue. This is Sangiovese from south-ern Italy, showing ripe notes of cherry and raspber-ry, backed by a touch of sweet almond. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $10

85 Teanum 2009 Òtre Primitivo (Puglia). This pure expression of Primitivo is partially aged in

oak for added extra structure and concentration. The bouquet here is characterized by jammy strawberry and bitter almond notes. Gattopardo USA LLC. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $18

OTHER RED WINES

91 Capolino Perlingieri 2007 Talento Agli-anico (Sannio). This will hit your senses hard

with dusty layers of crushed mineral, campfire ash, toasted nut and cured meat. The approach is bold and powerful. The wine rides smooth over the palate with thick tannins and determination. Montcalm Wine Im-porters. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $32

91 Galardi 2010 Terra di Lavoro (Roccamon-fina). This hearty blend of Aglianico and Pied-

irosso offers a compelling bouquet that is as savory and rich as it is elegant and composed. Dusty notes of crushed stone and dried fruit hold the wine together and give it momentum. The mouthfeel is bone dry, with loads of dark prune and tobacco flavors. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $90

91 Villa Matilde 2005 Camarato (Falerno del Massico). Produced by the ancient Romans,

Falerno may be the world’s oldest wine that still enjoys vibrant consumption to this very day. Aglianico (80%) and Piedirosso are blended to produce a richly layered and complex wine, featuring tones of black fruit, min-eral and smoked barbecue sauce. It shows aged aromas of cassis and spice. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $80

90 Di Majo Norante 2009 Don Luigi Riserva (Molise). A proud signature of Molise, Don

Luigi Riserva is a lovely Montepulciano-based wine—with 10% Aglianico—that opens with dark aromas of

leather, tobacco, bitter chocolate and plump blackberry. It delivers solid tannins backed by smooth concentra-tion. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

89 Capolino Perlingieri 2008 Sciascì (San-nio). This is a terrific wine for those who love

discovering the tastes and flavors of little-known indig-enous grapes from southern Italy. Aglianco and Sciasci-noso are blended in equal parts, producing a bold, spicy wine, with cinnamon, nutmeg and dried fruit aromas. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

89 Librandi 2009 Gravello (Val di Neto). A “super Calabria” blend of Gaglioppo and Caber-

net Sauvignon, Gravello delivers savory notes of leather, dried berry, spice and cured meat. There’s a touch of sour cherry on the tasty, rich finish. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $30

89 Villa Matilde 2008 Falerno del Massico. Falerno del Massico (80% Aglianico and 20%

Piedirosso) is a great food wine to pair with grilled lamb chops or lasagna with baked mozzarella. It shows smooth lines that are backed by dried fruit and dusty mineral notes. There’s a bright touch of sour berry on the close. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $26

88 Cantine Paolo Leo 2008 Riserva (Salice Salentino). A fantastic food wine made using

grapes that were sourced from 35-year-old vines, this opens with dark fruit aromas of prune, plum, raisin and candied cherry. There’s a dusty mineral element and a touch of bright acidity that keep the wine from tasting jammy or overripe. Traditional Wine Innovations LLC. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

88 Di Majo Norante 2010 Contado Riserva Aglianico (Molise). From one of the best

producers in the little-traveled region of Molise on Ita-ly’s Adriatic flank, this wine shows the far reaches of the Aglianico grape in southern Italy. This expression shows bright fruit tones of blackberry and cherry, backed by velvety tannins. Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

88 Mastroberardino 2010 Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio. A pure expression of the Pied-

irosso grape from southern Italy, this opens with aromas of violet, rose and wild berry. The fresh acidity makes it a perfect match for cheesy pizza. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

87 Terra Jovia 2007 Primitivo (Gioia del Colle). A pure expression of Primitivo, this

shows slightly muddled aromas at first that slowly open to show clear portraits of Indian spice, cherry, ripe blackberry, prune and candied fruit. The finish is round, soft and chewy. Martin Ulisse Imports. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $50

87 Torrevento 2009 Bolonero (Castel del Monte). From the Castel del Monte wine zone

in northern Puglia, Bolonero is a blend of 70% Nero di Troia and 30% Aglianico aged in stainless steel. The first

grape renders bright fruit tones of cherry and blackber-ry, and the second delivers power and structure. Philar-monica. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

87 Verrone 2009 Prime Vigne Aglianico (Ci-lento). This inky-dark red wine made from

the hearty Aglianico grape shows chewy, rich berry fla-vors and determined alcoholic heat. This is a powerful red wine, with loads of black fruit intensity and a bold, chewy finish. Bazzini Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $17

85 Feudi di San Gregorio 2010 Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio. Lacryma Christi is a

rustic and savory red wine, with bright tones of dried currant, spice, tobacco and leather. It includes touches of cured meat and bresaola, and the finish is sour and fresh. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $16

SICILY & SARDINIA

SICILIA WHITES

90 I Custodi 2010 Ante (Sicilia). Ante, which is Etna spelled backwards, is a blend of the in-

digenous Carricante, Minnella and Grecanico grapes. It shows fine texture, with polished citrus and stone fruit notes that characterize wines made using grapes from volcanic soils. The fruit was farmed organically from a vineyard 700 meters above sea level. Casa Bruno. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $32

87 Tenuta Gorghi Tondi 2011 Kheirè Grillo (Sicilia). A beautifully fragrant Grillo, this has

a flower aroma and an evident touch of zesty spice on the finish. The mouthfeel is lean and fresh. Voliovino. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $24

86 Barraco 2010 Zibibbo (Sicilia). Zibibbo is usually presented as a passito dessert wine,

but this is dry. The natural floral fragrance of the variety emerges on the nose, while the mouthfeel and the hon-ey and peach flavors are detailed with acids. Williams Corner Wine. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $35

86 Colosi 2011 Grillo (Sicilia). This bright Grillo opens with a light golden color, with fresh

aromas of cut grass, citrus and stone fruit. The mouth-feel is simple, crisp and sharp. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

86 Stemmari 2011 Pinot Grigio (Sicilia). Pre-viously known as Feudo Arancio, Stemmari is

a beautiful estate in Sicily owned by the Mezzacorona Group in northern Italy. This sun-drenched expression of Pinot Grigio offers aromas of ripe melon, dried grass and stone fruit. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $9

86 Stemmari 2011 Grillo (Sicilia). Using fruit that was sourced from the vineyards of Feudo

WineMag.com | 39

Arancio near the town of Sambuca in southern Sicily, this pretty white wine offers bright aromas of lemon, green apple and cut grass. A long list of seafood menu items would pair with this Grillo. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $9

82 Barraco 2010 Grillo (Sicilia). This is a very oxidized expression of Grillo from Sicily (the va-

rietal is naturally prone to oxidation) that shows a deep golden color, opening with aromas of butterscotch and caramel. The producer follows the organic winemaking philosophy of “vino naturale.” Williams Corner Wine. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

OTHER WHITE WINES

88 Pala 2010 Entemari (Isola dei Nuraghi). A beautiful blend of Vermentino, Malvasia and

Chardonnay, this has sophisticated tones of exotic fruit, pineapple, peach and apricot. It offers a broad, creamy feel on the palate. These three grapes compliment each other nicely in terms of structure, aromas and texture. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA

87 Pala 2011 Stellato (Vermentino di Sar-degna). Stellato is the quintessential seafood

wine that opens with yellow flower, citrus, pear and apple aromas. There’s a grassy accent of dried hay at the back, and the wine is crisp and bright in the mouth. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA

86 Pala 2011 I Fiori (Nuragus di Cagliari). Made from the little-known Nuragus grape,

which is indigenous to the island of Sardinia , this is a terrific seafood wine for a warm summer afternoon. It showcases notes of citrus, peach and white flower. Ban-ville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

85 Cantine di Dolianova 2011 Dolia (Ver-mentino di Sardegna). Here’s a fresh and

bright Vermentino that drinks easily and shows subdued aromas of peach and honey. The mouthfeel is informal and light. Saranty Imports. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $14

ROSÉ

86 Pala 2011 Silenzi Rosato (Isola dei Nuraghi). This opens with a bright pink color

and easy aromas of spring flower, peach, cranberry and grapefruit. It has a subtle impression of sweetness on the finish, followed by bright fruit flavors. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

CANNONAU DI SARDEGNA

88 Tenute Soletta 2009 Sardo (Cannonau di Sardegna). The Cannonau grape went by

the Spanish name Cañonat in the 1500s, known today

as Grenache in France and California. This expression shows sweet spice and dried fruit notes, with black cur-rant and milled peppercorn accents. Pair it with broc-coli and sausage pasta. Tricana Imports. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $28

87 Mesa 2010 Primo Scuro (Cannonau di Sardegna). Primo Scuro is dark and spicy—

despite the fact the wine is aged only in stainless steel—with layers of rum cake, sun-ripened fruit, candied cherry and nutmeg. Its naturally spicy characteristics suggest a pairing with lamb in mild curry. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $18

87 Pala 2011 I Fiori (Cannonau di Sarde-gna). Plump and round with ripe cherry and

blackberry aromas, I Fiori is an easy wine to pair with honey-roasted ham or chicken in mushroom cream sauce. It shows balance and a mildly creamy texture. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA

87 Tenute Soletta 2009 Corona Majore (Can-nonau di Sardegna). Corona Majore is a

meaty and intense red wine, with slightly cooked notes of cherry syrup and blackberry pie, followed by tangy layers of spice and leather. The finish shows sour fruit and generous texture. Tricana Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $33

ISOLA DEI NURAGHI

93 Agricola Punica 2009 Barrua (Isola dei Nuraghi). One of the nicest red wines to

emerge from the Mediterranean island of Sardinia, Barrua presents lush berry fruit woven with delicate notes of spice, leather and sweet chocolate. The wine is smooth, rich and long-lasting thanks to the delicious quality of its fruit. Kobrand. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

91 Mesa 2010 Buio Buio Carignano (Isola dei Nuraghi). Buio Buio, which translates to

“dark dark,” shows an inky-dark color and rich, soft con-centration. This handsome bottle offers pretty aromas of blackberry, plum, spice and cinnamon, with sweet-tasting cherry endnotes. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $44

91 Mesa 2009 Malombra (Isola dei Nuraghi). Fine craftsmanship is evident in this Sardinian

blend of Carignano and Syrah. The wine is rich and ex-tracted, with bold fruit notes of blackberry and plum followed by spice and tobacco. Some toasted oak influ-ences appear in the mouth alongside soft, smooth tan-nins. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $65

90 Agricola Punica 2009 Montessu (Isola dei Nuraghi). Montessu is a gorgeous blend

of Carignano, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Syrah that shows full fruit flavors of plum and blackberry, followed by slightly green tones of curry

leaf and rosemary. The tannins are firm and tight, with a fine, silky texture. Kobrand. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $35

90 Pala 2008 S’arai (Isola dei Nuraghi). Showcasing some of Sardinia’s most widely

planted indigenous grapes—Cannonau, Carignano and Bovale—S’arai is a bold, round red wine, with a long, smooth, velvety texture. On the nose, the wine presents black cherry, spice and mild tobacco notes. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $46

89 Pala 2009 Essentija Bovale (Isola dei Nuraghi). Bovale is a little-known red grape

from Sardinia that offers smooth and rustic character-istics that recall dried tobacco, earth, black fruit and spice. The finish is long and polished, with nice con-centration and intensity. Banville & Jones Wine Mer-chants. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $30

89 Pala 2009 Siray (Isola dei Nuraghi). This shows dark concentration, with dense aromas

of sweet cherry, tobacco, prune and blackberry. On the palate, it delivers a ripe impression of sweetness and a soft, plush texture. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

86 Pala 2010 Silenzi (Isola dei Nuraghi). An easy red blend from Sardinia, this shows aromas

of strawberry, cherry and cola. There’s a metallic nuance somewhere at the back, capped by hints of black pep-per and sweet-tasting fruit. Banville & Jones Wine Mer-chants. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

OTHER RED WINES

87 Mesa 2011 Buio (Carignano del Sulcis). This has an edgy, sharp note that’s followed by

small berry, wet earth, cola and dried ginger flavors. It offers a friendly disposition that will be a pleasure to drink with meatloafs or grilled franks. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $26

86 Feudi del Pisciotto 2010 Baglio del Sole Nero d’Avola(Sicilia). For full review see

page 10. Best Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

86 Mesa 2011 Primo Rosso (Carignano del Sulcis). Primo Rosso is an easy, informal Cari-

gnano-based wine, with sharp aromas of berry, bitter al-mond and cherry cola. The zesty freshness would pair with baked scamorza cheese. Montcalm Wine Import-ers. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

84 Pala 2010 I Fiori (Monica di Sardegna). This expression of the indigenous Monica grape

opens with flavors of sour fruit and cherry cola. Its easy informality is perfect for cocktail hour. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013

GERMANY DRY WHITE WINES

RHEINGAU

93 Johannishof 2010 Rüdesheim Berg Rottland Erstes Gewächs Riesling (Rhe-

ingau). Ebullient floral and honey notes bolster the in-tense, ripe, fleshy mango and peach flavors in this pow-erful Riesling. Full bodied and remarkably dry in style, with a richly textured, almost feathered mouthfeel. It finishes exceptionally long, with a bristle of lemon-lime acidity. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $68

93 Robert Weil 2010 Kiedrich Gräfenberg Erstes Gewächs Riesling Trocken (Rhe-

ingau). Voluptuous and almost creamy on the palate, this very dry yet intensely fruity Riesling is chock full of sweet white peach and orange blossom flavors, balanced by a shimmer of minerality and piercing acidity on the long finish. Loosen Bros. USA. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $88

92 Robert Weil 2010 Kiedrich Turmberg Riesling Trocken (Rheingau). There are

dashes of exotic spice and ash that permeate into the lavish stonefruit and waxy flower notes on the nose and palate. This is complex and intensely juicy; the brisk acidity and crushed gravel notes add a clean, minerally edge. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $54

91 August Kesseler 2010 Rüdesheim Berg Roseneck Erstes Gewächs Riesling

(Rheingau). Honeyed marmalade and bitter orange-rind flavors are a counterplay of silky-sweet and astrin-gent elements on this dry, but densely textured wine. Full bodied in style, it’s balanced with piercing lem-on-lime acidity, with a murmur of slate-like minerality through the finish. Vineyard Brands. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $68

91 Baron Knyphausen 2010 Erbacher Ho-henrain Erste Lage Riesling (Rheingau).

Hints of honey and orange spice sweeten the notes of candle wax and lanolin on this intense, tangerine-in-flected Riesling. It’s dry and full bodied in style, with a languorous heft of honey and flower flavors that meld on the palate. Tangy lime acidity adds zip and balance. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $68

91 Baron Knyphausen 2010 Erbacher Mar-cobrunn Grosse Lage Riesling (Rhein-

gau). Lush and richly textured, this dry, full-bodied Riesling counterplays savory elements of smoke, fennel and sweat with bright notes of juicy tangerine, honey and lavender. Lemony acidity extends the finish, ending on an elegant, waxy flower note. Valckenberg Interna-tional, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $92

91 Domdechant Werner 2010 Hochheimer Kirchenstück Erstes Gewächs Riesling

Trocken (Rheingau). Flavors of ripe yellow mango and peach nectar pack a punch in this intensely fruity,

intensely aromatic Riesling. It’s luscious yet dry on the palate, elegantly swathed with dusty minerals and sheer, tangerine-like acidity. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $50

90 Domdechant Werner 2010 Hochheimer Hölle Riesling Kabinett Trocken (Rhe-

ingau). Notes of mandarin oranges, honey and white blossoms are sweet introductions to this dry, intensely minerally Riesling. It’s voluptously textured with layers of crushed stone, granite and ripe fruit, but vibrant, cit-rusy acidity keeps the mouthfeel bright. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $30

90 Domdechant Werner 2009 Hochheimer Kirchenstück Erstes Gewächs Riesling

Trocken (Rheingau). Hints of crushed wet stone and granite penetrate through the honeyed peach and flow-er notes on this intensely minerally Riesling. Dry and lavishly textured, with peppery green notes of herb and fennel, it has a medium-long finish. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $50

90 Domdechant Werner 2010 Hochheimer Kirchenstück Riesling Spätlese Trocken

(Rheingau). There are edges of of smoke and violet on this dry yet lavish Riesling. On the palate, notes of ripe yellow peach and plum shine against a backdrop of lem-ony acidity, accented with smoke, orange-spice, herb and crushed stone hints. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $34

90 Johannishof 2010 Johannisberg Hölle Erstes Gewächs Riesling (Rheingau).

Layers of stone, ash, steel and lanolin are showstop-ping on this intensely minerally Rheingau Riesling. Dry and full-bodied in style, this has delicate stonefruit and yellow-cherry flavors that play an understated role, but linger sweetly on the finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $69

89 Domdechant Werner 2010 Hochheimer Domdechaney Erstes Gewächs Riesling

Trocken (Rheingau). There’s a slate-like minerality that permeates through the layers of honey, wax and heather on this impeccably dry Riesling. It’s full and creamy in texture, with focused, steely acidity. A bit subdued, but elegant in structure. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $50

89 Domdechant Werner 2009 Hochheimer Domdechaney Erstes Gewächs Riesling

Trocken (Rheingau). Heady notes of flower and ripe, fleshy stone fruit perfume this dry yet lusciously fruity, full-bodied Riesling. Brisk lime-like acidity, a note of fresh green herb and a smoky, crushed-stone mineral-ity add a cutting edge on the finish. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $50

89 Peter Jakob Kuhn 2009 Oestrich Doos-berg Riesling Trocken (Rheingau). Deeply

smoky, as if enrobed in a layer of campfire ash, this curi-

ously aromatic Riesling pairs a dark, minerally element with notes of sweet, ripe melon and stone fruit. Dry and full bodied, with an herbaceous, fresh midpalate. Do-maine Select Wine Estates. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $70

88 Schloss Reinhartshausen 2009 Erbach Marcobrunn Dry Riesling (Rheingau).

While this is aromatic with scents of ripe apples, nectar-ines, honey and lanolin, it has a subdued elegance. The dry, medum-bodied palate is crisp and clean, with hints of green herbs and honeycomb that linger. Palm Bay International. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $60

RHEINHESSEN

92 Kühling-Gillot 2009 Nierstein Pettenthal GG Riesling Trocken (Rheinhessen).

Steely and smoky, this luscious, full-bodied wine has a gorgeous mineral tone. The palate is dry, yet decadent-ly fruity and floral, with loads of dainty blossoms and yellow cherries. A rich, nuanced, impeccably balanced wine. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

92 Wittmann 2010 Westhofen Aulerde Riesling Trocken (Rheinhessen). Every-

thing about this Riesling is elegant and balanced: Sweet-tasting, honeyed fruit and flower elements are coun-tered by smoke and savory fennel notes. Rich, creamy textures are enlivened by a shock of lemon-lime acidity. Juicy yet refined, it lingers long with a kiss of sweet nec-tarine flavor. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $100

92 Wittmann 2010 Westhofen Morstein GG Riesling Trocken (Rheinhessen). Ripe on

the attack, with flavors of fleshy, yellow stone fruit and marmalade, this voluptuous yet dry Riesling is balanced, with layers of crushed stone and slate-driven minerality. Tart, citrusy acidity sends a sunny shockwave to your senses. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $100

91 Rheingraf 2010 Scharlachberg Bingen GG Riesling Trocken (Rheinhessen). This

is intensely ripe and almost tropical, with yellow fruit and flower notes that are balanced with layers of smoke, wet stone and brisk, steely acidity. This is a dry yet lav-ishly textured wine, with flavors that meander long on the finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $66

91 Wittmann 2010 Westhofen Brunnen-häuschen GG Riesling Trocken (Rhein-

hessen). Delicate green-flower and pink grapefruit flavors build in intensity and concentration on the palate of this bold, full-bodied Riesling. It’s an impeccably tex-tured, dry wine, with a slick of waxy lanolin that lingers on the finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $100

WineMag.com | 41

GERMANY FRUCHTIG WHITE WINES

MOSEL

92 Maximin Grünhäuser 2010 Abtsberg Riesling Auslese 37 (Mosel). Pretty fla-

vors of pink grapefruit and stone fruit are cloaked in rich swathes of fennel, honey, petrol and spice on this expressive, penetrating wine. Sweet-tasting and juicy, it bristles with streaks of acidity and astringency. It’s al-ready showing its stripes, but it should be even more ex-citing in five years. Valckenberg International, Inc. Cel-lar Selection. —A.I. abv: 7% Price: $97

92 Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Thanisch) 2010 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese

(Mosel). Dark, mysterious aromas of smoke, petrol and brine are enticing on the nose. Semisweet in style, with an abundance of honeyed stone-fruit and citrus flavors, this wine shows glimmers of maturity already, but it’s structured enough to improve for at least 7–10 more years. Valckenberg International, Inc. Cellar Se-lection. —A.I. abv: 9% Price: $70

91 Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef ) 2010 Berncasteler Doctor Riesling

Auslese (Mosel). Notes of marmalade, spice, wax and lanolin intertwine gorgeously on the nose and palate of this penetrating, complex Riesling. Tasting unabash-edly sweet and honeyed, this features a note of bitter orange rind and intense tangerine-like acidity, making it mouthwatering and sippable. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $57/375 ml

91 Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef ) 2010 Berncasteler Doctor Riesling

Spätlese (Mosel). Seemingly dripping with honey and nectar, this lush, intensely concentrated Riesling is dense, with sweet white-peach, grapefruit and pear fla-vors. Veins of of dusty slate and sharp lemon-lime acid-ity add complexity and elegance to the long, lingering finish. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $62

91 Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2010 Bernkasteler Badstube Auslese Riesling

(Mosel). Whiffs of petrol, brine and fennel extend from the nose to the palate, adding a minerally sheen and a savory tone to the ripe peach and nectarine flavors. Lacy and crisp on the palate, it’s mouth-smackingly good and easy to keep sipping. Miller Squared Inc. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $38

91 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2010 Bernkasteler alte Badstube am Doctorberg Riesling

Auslese (Mosel). With a veritable bouquet of honey-suckle, fresh herb and freesia, this is one fragrant Ries-ling. Crisp and clean on the palate, it’s sweet-tasting and easy-drinking, with ultraripe stone fruit and a prickle of lime-skin astringency on the finish. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $60

91 Maximin Grünhäuser 2010 Abtsberg Riesling Auslese 72 (Mosel). While initially

quite lush on the palate, with undulating notes of honey, lanolin and hibiscus nectar, there’s an invigorating brisk-ness on the midpalate from the sweet-tart citrus and stone fruit flavors. It’s bright with acidity and delicate lacings of sugar, spice and black tea. Valckenberg Inter-national, Inc. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $85/375 ml

91 Melsheimer 2010 Reiler Mullay-Hofberg Schäf Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Notes of

waxy white flower, lemon peel and lanolin add a min-erally slick to the ripe flavors of pineapple and yellow peach on this penetrating Riesling. Delicately textured with loads of tangy acidity, it finishes quite long, with a hint of bitter tea leaf. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $40

91 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2010 Scharzhofberger #10 Riesling Auslese

(Mosel). Slick with lanolin and honeycomb sheens, yet delicately textured, this is a symphonic harmony. Fla-vors of juicy, sweet, pink grapefruit and yellow peach are ripe and tangy, but shadings of jasmine tea and pot-pourri add edge on the finish. Valckenberg Internation-al, Inc. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $160/375 ml

90 Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Thanisch) 2010 Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Auslese

(Mosel). Hints of smoke, caramel and lemon custard are curious and enticing on the nose and palate of this nuanced Riesling. Intense, ripe peach and apricot fla-vors are sweet but tangy with acidity. It finishes excep-tionally long and remarkably dry. Valckenberg Interna-tional, Inc. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $87/375 ml

90 Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Thanisch) 2010 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese

(Mosel). A note of dried citrus peel adds a touch of spice to the whiff of petrol on this delicate, minerally Riesling. The palate is zippy and brisk, with loads of fresh stone-fruit flavor and a long, steely finish that re-verberates. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $42

90 Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef) 2010 Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Auslese

(Mosel). A hint of bitter citrus pith on the attack smooths out beautifully, evolving into sweet-tasting stone fruit, honey and crème caramel notes on this rich, balanced wine. Touches of sea salt and crushed stone add minerality to the medium-long finish. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $41/375 ml

90 Dr. Hermann 2010 Erdener Prälat Goldkap Riesling Auslese (Mosel). This

delicately nuanced Riesling balances intense yellow-peach and dried fig sweetness with a haze of smoke and notes of lanolin and beeswax. Juicy acidity and a hint of black tea astringency make for a long, elegant finish. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $50/375 ml

90 Eifel-Pfeiffer 2010 Estate Collection Riesling Auslese (Mosel). This is a rare, ex-

pressive Riesling that hints at violets and red berries. In-tensely fruity, it’s brisk, with tangy grapefruit-like acidity and a delicious, bitter green-almond finish. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $23

90 Eifel-Pfeiffer 2010 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Spätlese (Mosel).

A waxy lemon-peel note and a whiff of lanolin lend a mineral-driven slickness to this delicately textured, pen-etrating Riesling. Ripe tropical-fruit flavors are honeyed and intensely concentrated, yet the finish is elegant with a swathe of fresh, clean flowers. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $23

90 Dr. Loosen 2010 Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (Mosel). Sprightly

and crisp, with just 7% alcohol, this dainty Riesling is juicy and brisk, with loads of sweet-tart tangerine fla-vor. Layers of bitter citrus rind and lanolin, along with a steely midpalate, add depth, extending to a long, lem-ony finish. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 7% Price: $114/750 ml

90 Eifel-Pfeiffer 2010 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). A whiff of deli-

cate orange blossom adds a floral flair to intense honey and melon flavors on this sweet-tasting, sprightly little Riesling. It’s concentrated and unabashedly fruity, yet balanced by tart, citrusy acidity and a steel tone that lin-gers on the finish. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $24

90 Joh. Jos. Prüm 2010 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Dark

shades of smoke, fennel and ramp counter the sunny sweet-peach and melon notes on the nose and palate of this delicate, zippy Riesling. A slick of minerality on the midpalate extends to the finish, ending with a tart grapefruit kiss. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $48

90 Maximin Grünhäuser 2010 Abtsberg Riesling Auslese 24 (Mosel). This wine

is crisp, breezy and flirtatious in structure, yet deeply flavored with orange-cream, honey and blossom notes. An intensely sweet-tasting tangerine note and an ele-gant grapefruit-pith tone reverberate on the long finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $75/375 ml

90 Maximin Grünhäuser 2010 Bruderberg Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Aromatic with

notes of honey, spice and the faintest whiff of petrol, this is rich in lemon cream and concentrated sweet-peach flavors. It’s lacy and brisk on the palate, with veins of stony minerality and bitter peach-skin astrin-gency that prickles on the finish. Valckenberg Interna-tional, Inc. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $40

90 Peter Nicolay 2010 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese (Mosel).

This tastes delicately sugared, with a lacy, almost frilly mouthfeel. Soft white peach and flower blossom on

42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013

the nose and palate make this an unabashedly lady-like Riesling, with a delicate crushed-stone minerality that reverberates on the finish. Miller Squared Inc. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $35

90 S.A. Prüm 2010 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Whiffs of

smoke, spice and nut oil add an alluring maturity to this Riesling . The palate is gorgeously fruity, with loads of concentrated sweet peach, dried apricot and honey fla-vors, but it’s honed and steely, with a long laser-beam finish. Palm Bay International. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $25

90 S.A. Prüm 2010 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Delicately struc-

tured, this is nevertheless penetrating and sweet-tast-ing, with honey, marmalade and orange-cream flavors. There’s ripeness here, but bristling acidity and dark shades of slate, honeycomb and bitter citrus rind add balance and depth. Palm Bay International. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $40/375 ml

89 Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Thanisch) 2010 Bernkasteler Lay Erste Lage Riesling

Spätlese (Mosel). Hints of exotic spices and herbs add savory tones to the concentrated stone-fruit and preserved lemon flavors on this semidry Riesling. Quite minerally on the midpalate, it finishes clean, with a puckering, lemony acidity. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $42

89 Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2010 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese

(Mosel). Smoke and mineral oil tones add layers of depth to the pretty white blossom, peach and tanger-ine notes on this crisp, nervy Riesling. Mouthwateringly tangy with a delicious note of Sour Patch candy on the finish. Miller Squared Inc. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $38

89 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2010 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Sa-

vory tones of fennel, dried herb and petrol on the nose make the intensely fruity, almost tropical fruit flavors on the palate a bit surprising. This is semisweet, with sharp, focused acidity that lingers on the finish. Wine-sellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $44

88 Ansgar Clüsserath 2010 Piesporter Gold-tröpfchen Riesling Spätlese Feinherb

(Mosel). Waves of smoke and crushed stone add a dusty minerality to the honeyed pineapple and apple ci-der notes on this wine. Just a shade off-dry, it’s round and a bit creamy on the palate, brightened by a bristle of acidity and a steely finish. Domaine Select Wine Es-tates. —A.I. abv: 10.5% Price: $40

88 Eifel-Pfeiffer 2010 Estate Collection Ries-ling Spätlese (Mosel). A brisk spray of lemon

perfumes the concentrated peach and flower flavors on this bright, racy Riesling. It’s full of sweet-tasting fruiti-

ness, but zippy acidity keeps the palate brisk and easy- drinking. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $19

88 Graff 2010 Carl Graff Collection Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese (Mosel).

Swathes of green herbs add freshness to the rich, sweet-tasting flavors of honey, peach and preserved lemon on this lush, textured Riesling. While a bit tight and astrin-gent on the midpalate, it lingers nicely on the finish, with a crush of gravelly minerality. Valckenberg Inter-national, Inc. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $17

86 St. Gabriel 2010 Riesling Spätlese (Mosel) . Aromatically subdued, with just a

whiff of steely minerality, this easygoing Riesling boasts ripe peach and apricot flavors, accented by hints of spice and crushed stone. The finish is brisk, with vivid lemon-l ime acidity. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $11

RHEINGAU

90 Baron Knyphausen 2010 Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Grosse Lage Riesling

(Rheingau). Aromas of honey and lavender permeate into layers of juicy pink grapefruit, tart tangerine and sweet melon. It’s off-dry on the attack but finishes quite dry, with a lush, honeycomb oiliness that lingers. Valck-enberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $85

87 Johannishof 2010 Johannisberger Hölle Riesling Auslese (Rheingau). Intensely

minerally, with shades of crushed stone and wet grav-el, this is a dainty, sweet Riesling, with loads of white peach, honey and sweet tangerine flavors. A hint of dried herb on the midpalate finishes on a slightly craggy, bitter note. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $59

GERMANY RED WINES

BADEN

90 Huber 2009 Malterdinger Bienenberg R GG Spätburgunder Trocken (Baden). This

delicate cool-climate Pinot Noir is fresh and dainty, with a red cherry flavor and plumes of rose petal and green flower perfume. Sour plum acidity and fine-grained but penetrating tannins add brace and backbone. Valcken-berg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $111

89 Huber 2009 Alte Reben Spätburgunder Trocken (Baden). Dark toast and burnt sug-

ar notes add a caramel-like warmth to the tart black-cherry, green leaf and violet petal notes on this under-stated Pinot Noir. It’s lean in style, with savory dried-herb and granite hints, with soft, wispy tannins that add structure on the midpalate. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $77

88 Huber 2009 Pinot Noir Trocken (Baden). A spray of sour cherry acidity and clean, gravelly

minerality lend a tonic feel to this crisp, unabashedly cool-climate Pinot Noir. On the palate, delicate black-cherry and plum flavors are bolstered by layers of smoke and caramel that linger on the finish. Valckenberg Inter-national, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $38

87 Huber 2009 Hecklinger Schlossberg R GG Spätburgunder Trocken (Baden). Ini-

tial waves of charred oak and smoke impose against a delicate backdrop of black cherry and bramble, but fruity and herbaceous green flavors come through nice-ly on the midpalate, layered with hints of earthy mush-rooms and dusty minerals. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $138

87 Huber 2009 Wildenstein R Spätbur-gunder Trocken (Baden). Burnt caramel,

vanilla and herbaceous dill notes lend an oaky feel to the dainty red-plum and violet flavors. The tannins are finely grained but persistent, extending the long, sour-cherry-flavored finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $181

86 Huber 2009 Alte Reben Spätburgunder (Baden). Sweet-tart red cherry and pastry

notes are enticing, but the big char and smoke make it hard to focus on the palate’s abundance of juicy red-fruit flavors. Fine-grained yet persistent tannins extend the finish. It ends with a delicate spray of violet per-fume. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $77

86 Huber 2009 Bombacher Sommerhalde R GG Spätburgunder Trocken (Baden).

Abundant layers of char and smoke threaten to over-take the bright black-cherry and green herb flavors on this premium wine. Aeration brings the fruit to the fore-front, but hints of toasted wood and dill linger on the finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $111

AHR

89 Jean Stodden 2008 Recher Herrenberg Pinot Noir (Ahr). Hints of caramel and vanilla,

along with soft, silky tannins add oaky, woodsy warmth to the brambly flavors of red raspberry and cherry. It’s delicately structured, with bracing acidity that adds lev-ity and zip, highlighting the tart berry notes on the fin-ish. The Artisan Collection. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $125

88 Jean Stodden 2009 J Pinot Noir (Ahr). Feminine and pretty, with hints of rose, violet

and dried lavender, Jean Stodden’s J has density and heft on the palate that’s unique. It’s concentrated in ripe black-plum flavor, with a delicious, sweet-savory soy note that lingers on the finish. The Artisan Collec-tion. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $99

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87 Jean Stodden 2010 Pinot Noir (Ahr). While lithe on the nose, with understated red-

fruit aromas, this shows a palate that’s nicely concentrat-ed with crisp red-cherry and plum flavors, laced with an invigorating shower of minerality and acidity. The Arti-san Collection. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $78

86 Nelles 2009 1479N Ruber Spätburgunder (Ahr). Firm tannins and notes of fresh dill and

toasted coconut brood against the delicate backdrop of the crisp notes of black-plums and violets. It’s an elegant wine, but slight and understated in structure. Winesell-ers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $28

WÜRTTEMBERG

88 Grafen Neipperg 2007 Neipperger Schlossberg Spätburgunder (Württem-

berg ). This Pinot Noir stands out in a flight of German reds for its slightly fleshy, concentrated fruit quality. Bristling with acidity and a delicate layer of tannins, it’s delicately structured but elegantly fruity, with hints of dried cherry and plum accented by rose and potpourri notes. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $55

85 Grafen Neipperg 2009 Spätburgunder Trocken (Württemberg). Notes of sweet

baking spices and ripe, red cherries and plums seem luxurious against the subtly herbaceous green-leaf and dusty mineral notes. The finish is fairly short, but it ends sweetly with a kiss of ripe red fruit. Valckenberg Inter-national, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $28

PFALZ

87 A. Christmann 2009 Spätburgunder Trocken (Pfalz). A note of crushed granite

lends a shimmering minerality to the crisp black-plum and berry flavors on this light-footed Pinot Noir. Fresh with a green herb note and bright, brisk acidity, this would pair with delicate fish and fowl dishes. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $25

87 Fitz-Ritter 2009 Pinot Noir Trocken (Pfalz). Herbaceous and green, with sprays of

brambly wood and flower, this is a delicately structured but vivacious red wine, with an enticing rose-petal aro-ma. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $23

SPAIN WHITE WINES

RÍAS BAIXAS

89 Condes de Albarei 2011 Albariño (Rías Baixas). For full review see page 9. Best Buy.

abv: 12% Price: $12

88 Pazo da Bouciña 2011 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Subtle and minerally on the nose,

this has bashful white-fruit aromas that are at the peak of freshness. It feels good, lively and complete, while flavors of apple, citrus and mineral are well balanced. Drink immediately. United Cellars, Inc. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

88 Pazo Serantellos 2011 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Minerally as well as lemony and zesty

on the nose, this is nevertheless neither pushy nor in-tense. The palate offers good acidity and razor-sharp clarity, along with flavors of pineapple and apple. Alert on the finish, this is a firm refresher. Colección Interna-cional del Vino. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $12

87 Marqués de Cáceres 2011 Deusa Nai Albariño (Rías Baixas). This Rioja-based

winery’s first effort with Albariño is perfectly good, with aromas of peach and fleshy melon. The palate is tangy and linear in feel, with citrus and green fruit flavors. Turns sharp and citric on the finish. Vineyard Brands. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $16

86 Lusco 2011 Zios Albariño (Rías Baixas). An apple cider aroma comes across dusty, slight-

ly maderized and heavy. This is a plump, wide Albariño with pithy citrus and white nectarine flavors. The finish features pithy, fleshy accents. Drink now. Opici Wines. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $18

86 Marqués de Vizhoja 2011 Señor da Folla Verde Albariño-Treixadura-Loureira (Rías

Baixas). Wobbly aromas of vanilla wafer and tropical fruit aren’t fully convincing. The palate, however, crackles with a tangy lemon flavor, a vanilla infusion and a chalky- textured finish. Drink this blend of 70% Albariño and 15% each Treixadura and Loureira right away. Republic National Distributing Co. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $30

86 ValdoCea 2011 Albariño (Rías Baixas). This is a textbook example of a mineral-driven

wine, with lemon and apple aromas along with touches of hay and corn. It feels fresh, citrusy and tight, with citrus flavors leading to a pithy, tangy finish. Crisp and cleansing. Château & Domaines Imports. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

85 Marqués de Vizhoja 2011 Torre la Moreira Albariño (Rías Baixas). The nose on this

Albariño deals tropical fruit and vanilla scents. It feels citrusy, with modest flavors of papaya, peach and white melon. After showing moderate vitality on the palate, the finish softens up and slips into the netherworld. Seems as though it’s beginning to fade. Republic Na-tional Distributing Co. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

85 Orballo 2011 Albariño (Rías Baixas). A bit stalky and corny smelling, this lacks the overall

purity that can make Albariño great. It’s fresh enough, but standard in feel, with simple melon and peach fla-vors. The finish lacks oomph, and combined with the

nose, there are indicators that it’s beginning to slip. The Artisan Collection. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

84 Don Olegario 2011 Albariño (Rías Baixas ). This smells stalky and past its prime,

but it’s not stinky or maderized. The palate is fleshy in feel and oily in sensation, with bitter citrus flavors and pithy notes. Neither vital nor fresh on the finish. Ko-brand. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $18

82 Veiga da Princesa 2011 Albariño (Rías Baixas). This is about as strange and individ-

ual as Albariño gets. The nose oozes odd cinnamon and resin aromas, which are abnormal for the variety and the Rías Baixas region. A flavor of spiced apple finishes with the same spice character. Funky is probably the best word to describe this wine. The Artisan Collection. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $20

RUEDA

86 Bodegas Antaño 2011 Alta Plata Verdejo (Rueda). This is fresh and clean upfront, but

mild, with saline, mineral and melon aromas. It feels round and mellow, with tame acidity and waxy flavors of peach, melon and citrus. Dry on the finish. ENYE Dis-tribution Group, LLC. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $17

84 Blanco Nieva 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Rueda). Pungent on the nose, this offers blasts

of nettle, sweat, mineral and stone along with citrus. It feels fresh and forward, but the flavors of white fruit, jalapeño and bitter pith don’t impress. Holds onto its bitterness on the finish. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $22

84 Lo Nuevo 2011 Lunares Old Vines Verdejo (Rueda). White fruit and flower aro-

mas are friendly and simple. The palate feels soft and syrupy, and thus it’s not surprising that the wine’s fla-vors of sweet apple and pear taste honeyed and can-died. Creamy on the finish, lacking the zest and cut that Verdejo should have. Vintage Point. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $10

83 Emina 2011 Verdejo (Rueda). This wine is gold in color, which indicates the heft and soft-

ness that follow. The nose is honeyed and sweaty, while the palate feels chunky and flat, with dusty, maderized flavors of papaya, passion fruit and banana. Pudgy- feeling and tropical on the finish. Matarromera USA, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

RIOJA

89 Finca Allende 2010 Allende (Rioja). Un-der control on the bouquet, this has pear and

apple aromas. The wine feels round, juicy and pure, with oak, toast, lemon, apple and spice flavors. Barrel influence creates a peppery, dry and spicy finish, and

44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013

overall this blend of Viura and Malvasia is on the money. Drink now. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

88 Bodegas Palacio 2009 Cosme Palacio 1894 Blanco (Rioja). This wine is quiet on

the nose, with light touches of toasty resin and butter. It’s Burgundian in feel, with plump, fleshy fruit that ac-companies resiny, spicy flavors of white fruit and citrus. Notes of wood and resin dominate the finish on this chunky, full-bodied Viura (with 8% Malvasia). HAB North America. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

87 Sierra Cantabria 2010 Organza (Rioja). Dusty apple and white peach aromas are basic

and clean. The palate offers bright acids, citrus-driv-en fruit and whacks of oak-based cinnamon and resin, along with laser-like lemon notes. Mild on the finish, with flavors of vanilla and oak spice. Jorge Ordoñez Se-lections. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $28

85 Bodegas Ontañón 2009 Vetiver Viura (Rioja). Vanilla, popcorn and baked apple aro-

mas create a good but one-dimensional nose. In the mouth, things run tight and acidic, with a puckering, lemony feel and austere flavors of dry apple and spice. Finishes tangy and lemony. Cavatappi Distribuzione. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12

81 Bodegas Escudero 2009 Becquer (Rioja ). Almond candy and lacquer aromas

create a corny scent on the nose. This wine feels flabby and soggy, with buttery oak and little to no fruit flavor. Finishes woody, with vanilla and spice. A blend of 60% Viura and 40% Chardonnay. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

PENEDÈS

87 Marques de Gelida 2011 Old Vines Made with Organically Grown Grapes Xarel-

lo (Penedès). Simple, mild aromas of pear and ap-ple form a good opening. This feels plump and nice in the mouth, with applesauce and pithy orange flavors. Zesty, alert and fresh on the finish. A nice, quaffable white made from Xarel-lo, a grape most often used for sparkling wines. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $12

85 Albet I Noya 2011 XA Vinyes Velles Made with Organic Grapes Xarel-lo (Penedès).

Peach and citrus aromas are light, mellow and clean. This is fresh, lifted and slightly spritzy in feel, with cit-rus, lime, green melon and apple flavors that finish crisp and clean. Opici Wines. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $13

85 Terraprima 2011 Massís del Garraf (Penedès). Flowery and easygoing on the

bouquet, this is taught, lemony and wiry on the palate. Flavors of gooseberry, lime and apple feature cleans-ing acids and a persistent, citrusy tang. A blend of 80%

Xarel-lo and 20% Riesling. Steve Miles Selections. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

84 Albet I Noya 2011 Petit Albet Made with Organic Grapes Chardonnay-Xarel-lo

(Penedès). This blend of 60% Xarel-lo and 40% Char-donnay deals notes of petrol, yeast and powdered sugar on the bouquet. It’s acidic and citric in feel, with lime, tart apple and other green-leaning flavors. Feels watery and tangy on the finish. Opici Wines. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $12

84 Marques de Gelida 2010 Clot de Roure Xarel-lo (Penedès). This small-production

(200 cases), barrel-aged Xarel-lo is well made but fails to strike a chord. It’s yellow in color, with oily aromas of petrol, orange peel and wood resin. It feels sticky de-spite its supporting acids, and it tastes primarily of wood and white pepper, with a lasting bitterness. Jorge Or-doñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

SPAIN SPAKLING WINES

CAVA

91 Gramona 2005 III Lustros Gran Reserva (Cava). Gramona is known for yeasty, complex

sparklers, and this falls into that paradigm. The nose is definitely yeasty, with apple and green melon aromas. It’s a bit soft for Cava, but that’s because it’s an ’05 that rested on lees for years. Flavors of toasted bread and ap-ple are long on complexity and short on fruit, but once again that’s what distinguishes Gramona from the mass-es. Eric Solomon Selections. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $45

91 Llopart 2006 Leopardi Brut Nature (Cava). For full review see page 6. Editors’

Choice.abv: 11.5% Price: $40

90 Agustí Torelló Mata 2009 Rosat Brut Rosé Trepat (Cava). There aren’t many

rosé Cavas that stand out, but this is one of the few. It’s bready and yeasty on the bouquet, with caramel and baked fruit aromas. It feels slightly creamy and com-plex, with peach, nectarine and dry spice flavors. Long, elegant and mildly peppered on the finish. Made from the Trepat grape. Andrew Bell Selection. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $36

89 Llopart 2010 Brut Reserva (Cava). Lemon and lime aromas are suggestive of Sprite, while

the body on this high-end Cava is fresh and snappy, with sizzling acidity. The flavors come across crisp and fo-cused, emphasizing apple and dry spice. The finish is long, spicy and textured, with nothing rough or scour-ing. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $31

88 Castellví de la Marca NV Santa Monica Brut (Cava). For full review see page 10. Best

Buy. abv: 11.5% Price: $10

88 Dominio de la Vega 2009 Brut Pinot Noir (Cava). Full, yeasty and dry on the nose, this

has rustic, lightly baked red-fruit aromas. It feels round and easygoing, with dry nectarine and melon flavors that lead nicely onto the subtle, fruity, fresh finish, with spice flavors and lasting acidity. A.W. Direct. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $26

87 Marques de Gelida 2008 Brut Exclusive Gran Reserva (Cava). The bouquet on this

Cava is a bit gaseous, with mild lime and apple aromas. In the mouth, it’s foamy but fresh and lifted. Flavors of candied apple and mango finish in sweet fashion. Nice for Cava but with limits. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $16

87 Muga NV Conde de Haro Brut (Cava). This small-production Cava from Muga in Rioja

is elegant, lemony and tight as a drum. Aromas of apple, lime and yeast set up an acidic palate with modest lem-on and apple flavors and a linear, focused feel. Finishes with zest and kick. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

87 Segura Viudas NV Aria Brut Pinot Noir (Cava). Fresh, clean nectarine and cantaloupe

aromas provide an inviting entrance, which is followed by a vital palate that has mild orange and nectarine fla-vors which are slightly sweet and friendly. Smooth, light and not at all aggressive on the finish. Freixenet USA. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $14

87 Sumarroca 2010 Brut Reserva (Cava). Wheat, lemon-lime and grass aromas accom-

pany touches of yeast and scrambled egg. This is a cit-rusy Cava, with acidic crispness and scour in support of green apple and orange flavors. Juicy and citric, with just enough weight to register this as being better than most. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $22

84 El Xamfrà NV Mercat Brut (Cava). Spiced apple and dried cheese aromas are simultane-

ously honest and slightly crude. This Cava feels fluffy, foamy and average in composition, with lime, pickled melon and brine flavors. It maintains the pickled char-acter on the finish, which tastes slightly bitter. Valkyrie Selections. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $12

84 Louis Drescher NV Amor Special Cuvée (Cava). If this Cava weren’t so pickled in smell

and taste, it would rate better. As is, it opens with white fruit, vanilla and brine aromas. Flavors of apple and pear maintain a prevalent, pickled edge, while the finish falls off in feel and clarity. Matadorvino LLC. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $15

83 Clos Mont-Blanc NV Proyecto Cu4tro Bubbles Brut (Cava). This is light on the

nose, with white fruit and citrus aromas. It feels lean,

WineMag.com | 45

tangy and wayward, with tart flavors of tangerine and vanilla. Finishes bitter and pithy. Luxe Vintages. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $17

81 Bodegas Medina NV Marqués de Badajoz Brut Reserva (Cava). This opens with a blast

of diesel along with tarry asphalt. The mouthfeel isn’t bad, but there isn’t much life to the wine. It tastes bit-ter and oceanic, like horseradish and sea shell. Foamy and coarse on the finish. Rio Tinto Export Inc. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $10

OTHER SPARKLING WINES

84 J. Garcia Carrion NV Opera Prima Spar-kling Moscato (Spain). For full review see

page 11. Best Buy. abv: 7% Price: $8

83 J. Garcia Carrion NV Opera Prima Pink Moscato (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla).

Off-pink in color, this has floral, perfumed aromas that suggest soap or bath gel. It feels like liquid candy on the palate and tastes sugary, like cotton candy. CIV/USA. —M.S. abv: 7% Price: $8

SPAIN RED WINES

BIERZO

91 Abad Dom Bueno 2009 Roble Mencía (Bierzo). This is dry, earthy and complex on

the nose, with smooth tannins, elegance and acidic lift to the palate. Flavors of fine oak, copious spice and complex berry are more than satisfying, while the finish is long, dry and composed, featuring a note of cinna-mon. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $28

90 Dominio de Tares 2009 Baltos Mencía (Bierzo). Earthy and deep smelling, this

Mencía is full, layered and nicely textured on the pal-ate. As for flavors, look for equal parts dark fruit, toast, smoke and herb. Things dry out and fade on the finish. Opici Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

90 El Agosto 2010 Mencía (Bierzo). A bit earthy and horsey on the nose, this is neverthe-

less attractive on the bouquet, with sandalwood, spice and black fruit aromas. The mouthfeel registers as be-ing thick and chewy, while the flavor profile includes toasty, chocolaty black-fruit flavors, with a finish that has weight and a vanilla note. Drink now–2016. The Artisan Collection. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

87 Vinos de Arganza 2010 La Mano Roble Mencía (Bierzo). La Mano smells dry and

spicy, with modest but present oak aromas and vanilla-tinged plum and berry scents. It’s angular in feel, but the flavors of oak-based black fruit and raspberry work.

It finishes mild, with some oaky residue. Axial Wines USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $8

85 Luna Beberide 2010 Mencía (Bierzo). The opening aromas of reedy berries are gritty and

crusty, while the palate is lively but feels snappy and raw. Flavors of cherry and plum are light, while the fin-ish is straightforward, with a citrusy kick. Not as full and generous as past vintages. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

RIBERA DEL DUERO

91 Bodegas Alejandro Fernandez 2009 Tinto Pesquera (Ribera del Duero). Dense, fruity

and rock-solid as Ribera goes, this has aromas of cas-sis and blackberry that are full and lusty. The palate is thick and saturated, with rich black-fruit flavors, finish-ing long and potent. Drink now–2017. Classical Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $36

91 Loess 2009 Ribera del Duero. Jammy berry aromas are touched up by rich, ample amounts

of wood smoke and spice. It feels tight, tannic and al-most tough, with leather, lemony oak and tobacco fla-vors accenting a core of blackberry. Robust, long and smoky on the finish. Drink 2015–2017. Enotrends LLC. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $35

90 Bodegas Fuentespina 2009 Selección (Ribera del Duero). Here’s a rich and oaky

Ribera del Duero that pours on the bacon, hickory and earth aromas in addition to black fruit and licorice notes. It feels huge and tannic but still well balanced, with bacon, clove and baked black-fruit flavors. It holds onto its barbecued character, ending with a fiery finish. Drink now–2016. Axial Wines USA. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18

89 Finca Torremilanos 2009 Los Cantos (Ri-bera del Duero). This is jammy and reduced

throughout, especially on the nose, which offers a dense blueberry aroma. Saturated and solid on the palate, it features ripe flavors of black plum, blackberry and cara-mel. A potent, fruity, modern type of Tempranillo that’s long on fruit and short on complexity. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $23

88 Finca Torremilanos 2009 Torremilanos Crianza (Ribera del Duero). Roasted and

bullish, this has a rustic, smoky bouquet of earthy plum and savory berry. It is both plump and racy on the pal-ate, with thick berry flavors that are touched up by ba-con, spice and cocoa. It has a youthful mouthfeel that may calm down in a year or two. Drink now–2015. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $30

88 Zumaya 2009 Crianza (Ribera del Duero ). A much better wine than in previous years, this

opens with berry and vanilla aromas that lead to a full, vigorous yet choppy-feeling palate, with roasted berry, hickory and vanilla flavors. More woody than fruity as

a whole, with hard tannins on the finish. Axial Wines USA. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $22

87 Viña Vilano 2011 Roble (Ribera del Duero ). Friendly aromas of blueberry, boysen-

berry, pastry and vanilla are clean and welcoming. This is pure, racy and fresh in style, with a bright plum flavor. An honest wine with quality fruit and balance. Spring Glory Corporation. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

86 Federico Paternina 2009 Marques de Val-paraiso Roble (Ribera del Duero). Ripe

and stocky upfront, this features raisin, jammy berry and spice aromas. It feels blocky, full and rubbery on the palate, with plum, blackberry and herb flavors that lose steam and turn more raisiny toward the finish. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

85 Condado de Oriza 2011 Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero). This basic Tempranillo is

violet in color and shows rubbery aromas of black fruit and wild berry. It feels skittish on the palate, with grap-ey flavors of plum and berry. Juicy, candied and a little warm on the finish. Luneau USA Inc. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $11

85 Montevannos 2009 Roble (Ribera del Duero ). This is ripe and raisiny on the nose,

with marmalade, spice cake and ripe berry aromas. Oddly, this feels raw and abrasive, given the dark-leaning aromas. While it shows baked black-fruit fla-vors, it’s tannic, sassy and snappy. Spain Wine Collec-tion. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

85 Viña Vilano 2011 Tinto (Ribera del Duero ). Grapey and citrusy on the nose, this

has an herbal twinge. It feels bouncy and simple, with juicy boysenberry and blueberry flavors that set up a grapey, standard-feeling finish. Fresh, juicy and best for simple sipping. Spring Glory Corporation. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $9

84 Prado Rey 2011 Tinto Joven Tempranil-lo (Ribera del Duero). This has a jumpy and

piquant bouquet, with notes of plum and raspberry. It feels pinched and narrow but lively, with mild ber-ry, cherry and leather flavors. Holds onto that leathery characteristic on what amounts to a slightly bitter tast-ing finish. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $10

84 Viña Mayor 2009 Secreto Vendimia Seleccionada (Ribera del Duero). Rough

black-cherry and plum aromas are full and fruity. The palate is choppy, with prickly acidity leading to dry, hol-low black-plum flavors. The wine shows color and size, with citrusy acid and astringency. Habarcelo North America. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

82 Matarromera 2011 Melior (Ribera del Duero ). Mulchy-smelling and short on fresh-

ness, with leather and compost aromas, this feels edgy

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013

and gritty, with baked, earthy berry flavors that fail the freshness test. The wine remains leathery and turns bit-ter on the finish. Matarromera USA, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

RIOJA

93 Beronia 2005 Gran Reserva (Rioja). This wine is absolutely what fans of traditional Rioja

should be on the lookout for. It’s smooth, elegant and complex on the bouquet, the perfect introduction to a firm yet classy palate, with berry, plum, spice, tobacco and vanilla flavors. Dry, toasty and just right on the fin-ish. Drink now–2020. San Francisco Wine Exchange. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $33

93 Beronia 2005 Selección 198 Barricas (Rioja). This textbook example of classic Rio-

ja is light yet strong, with tobacco, earth and spice aro-mas accenting dry raspberry and plum scents. It feels juicy and agile, with popping acidity and crisp flavors of red plum and cherry. Like its gran reserva cousin from 2005, this finishes dry and can stand up to additional ag-ing. Drink 2014–2025. San Francisco Wine Exchange. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $80

92 Muga 2006 Selección Especial (Rioja). For full review see page 5.

abv: 14% Price: $43

92 Viñedos de Paganos 2005 El Puntido Gran Reserva (Rioja). Earthy, roasted aro-

mas of dry berry and leathery spice are alluring. The wine feels mature but forward, with a mild, resiny oak note driving the roasted red-berry, tobacco, spice and lemon flavors. It feels smooth and plush on the finish, with structure and spine. Drink now–2018. Jorge Or-doñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $57

91 Baron De Ley 2005 Gran Reserva (Rioja). For full review see page 6.

abv: 13.5% Price: $45

91 El Coto 2005 Real Reserva (Rioja). This smells a touch rubbery on the nose, but mostly

it is an excellent high-end Rioja with leather, tobacco and red fruit aromas. The wine shows structure and so-lidity on the tongue, with dry, spicy red-berry flavors matched by a note of tobacco. Tight, dry and healthy-feeling on the finish. Drink now–2020. Frederick Wild-man & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $50

90 Covila 2005 II Reserva (Rioja). This is light and dusty upfront, with solid cherry and rasp-

berry aromas. Smooth, silky and somewhat creamy in feel, it features a mixture of fresh tomato, plum and spice flavors. Snappy and perfectly clean, with light to medium intensity. Drink now. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $22

89 Bodegas Bilbainas 2006 Viña Pomal Reserva (Rioja). For full review see page 8.

abv: 14% Price: $21

89 Marqués de Riscal 2006 Reserva (Rioja). For full review see page 8.

abv: 14% Price: $17

89 Viña Cerrada 2005 Gran Reserva (Rioja). Mild and floral on the bouquet, this has touches

of citrus and gritty cherry. The palate feels fresh, lively and healthy, with a baked, spicy flavor along with a bri-ary berry note. Solid but mild on the finish; drink now–2015. Mindeza Trading Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

88 Taron 2004 Reserva (Rioja). Soft and fleshy smelling, with a raisiny aroma, this feels wide,

grabby and choppy, with rich, sweet flavors of molas-ses, raisin, licorice and tobacco. It finishes forward, with some heat, and overall the wine is lusty but seems a touch overripe. Drink now. Amphora Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

87 Bodegas Valdemar 2011 Tempranillo (Rioja). For full review see page 10. Best Buy.

abv: 13.5% Price: $10

87 Castillo Labastida 2006 Reserva (Rioja). Spunky and mildly abrasive on the nose, this has

some punch and character. It feels fresh, lean and nar-row, with a traditional Rioja mix of herb-influenced red-fruit and dry spice notes. The mild finish offers tobacco and raspberry flavors. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $23

86 Burgo Viejo 2011 Tinto (Rioja). This Rio-ja opens with a jumpy, lively, candied red-fruit

aroma. It feels solid, rubbery and stout, with dark fruit flavors that are accented by mild resin and butter notes. Feels a little sticky on the finish, with firm tannins. Ky-sela Père et Fils. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

86 Sonsierra 2011 Rioja. Fresh berry aromas are simple and attractive. This wine is pretty

good in feel and structure, with roundness and tannic bite. Flavors of wild berry, plum and cherry turn dark on the back palate, with tightness and dark flavors defin-ing the finish. Spain Wine Collection. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

85 Bodegas Ontañón 2004 Reserva Tempranillo Graciano (Rioja). The nose

deals rhubarb and green bean notes, and the palate is mildly astringent. The flavor profile offers a mix of sweet berry flavors like blueberry, and then mint and green herb notes surface. Licorice and heat can be found on the finish. Cavatappi Distribuzione. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $23

84 Vallobera 2011 Spanish Demon (Rioja). Hard berry and plum aromas turn minty and

grassy with airing. It feels tough and tannic, but fresh, with mild herb-tinged flavors of red berry and red plum.

Finishes lively but rough, with a mint note and grabby tannins. Axial Wines USA. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

83 El Circulo 2011 Tempranillo (Rioja). This is sharp on the nose, which indicates an un-

promising future. The palate is tight and high in acidity, with sour plum and tart berry flavors. Short on the fin-ish. Luneau USA Inc. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $9

82 Vallobera 2010 Pago Malarina (Rioja). Berry aromas accompany horse and leather

notes. This wine smacks down hard on the palate, show-ing spunky flavors of red fruit and spice. Peppery, dry and wiry as a whole. Axial Wines USA. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

80 Bodegas del Mundo 2010 Valdemoreda (Rioja). Raisin and funky leather are the prime

aromas on this marginal Tempranillo. Expect a dried-out, tart and herbal wine, with a raisiny sweetness. CIV/USA. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $8

80 Bodegas Franco-Españolas 2010 Royal Tempranillo (Rioja). Mulchy and gaseous on

the nose, this subsequently turns scouring and acidic on the palate, with a leafy, dry red-plum flavor. Herbal, dry and not very fruity overall. Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

80 Casa de la Reina 2010 Tempranillo (Rioja ). This is lean, crisp, acidic and down-

right shrill at points. Flavors of tart raspberry and plum skin end in a whirl of citrusy acids. Vision Wine & Spir-its. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

CAMPO DE BORJA

94 Pagos del Moncayo 2009 Syrah (Cam-po de Borja). This varietal Syrah from the

land of Garnacha is downright superb, and for $30 it qualifies as an outstanding value. Black cherry and ripe berry aromas are big and inviting, while the palate is thick, layered and still racy due to fine acidity. Flavors of blackberry, chocolate, vanilla and baking spice run for miles on the generous finish. Drink now–2016. Axial Wines USA. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

92 Alto Moncayo 2009 Aquilon Garnacha (Campo de Borja). For full review see page 4.

abv: 16% Price: $155

91 Alto Moncayo 2009 Garnacha (Campo de Borja). For full review see page 6.

abv: 16% Price: $45

90 Alto Moncayo 2009 Veraton Garnacha (Campo de Borja). For full review see page 7.

abv: 15.5% Price: $25

89 Terrazas del Moncayo 2009 Garnacha (Campo de Borja). Raisin and kirsch aro-

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mas are soft and rich, settling on strawberry and spice notes. The palate is lifted by firm acidity and solid tan-nins, while the wine’s core flavors of raspberry, plum and herb serve it well. It finishes warm and sweet tast-ing, with licorice and molasses flavors that are tempered by a baking spice note. The Artisan Collection. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $70

83 Coto de Hayas 2009 Fagus Selección Es-pecial Garnacha (Campo de Borja). This

boasts a Christmas spice note on top of an earthy, baked berry aroma. It feels grabby, flat and gummy, with syr-upy berry flavors along with a load of odd spices. As a whole, this is strangely oaked and doesn’t show Garna-cha in its best light. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $21

EMPORDÀ

90 Celler Arché Pagès 2006 Cartesius (Empordà ). After a gaseous, rubbery-smelling

start, this Catalonian blend falls into place. The palate is ripped in feel, showing impressive drive and power. Flavors of cola, toast, chocolate, prune and blackberry are generous, while the finish is dense and chocolaty, with a tobacco accent. Drink now–2015. Luxe Vintages. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $27

87 Celler Arché Pagès 2007 Bonfill (Empordà ). This wine smells baked and rasiny,

and the bouquet brings charcoal and toast notes into play. It feels mature and ready, with raisin, molasses, chocolate and rooty berry flavors. Ripe and ready on the finish. The blend is Garnacha, Carignan and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now. Luxe Vintages. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $45

85 Celler Arché Pagès 2006 Sàtirs Negre (Empordà). This wine is messy on the nose,

where compost, gas and animal aromas blend with jam-my berry scents. It feels tannic and clampy, with baked and rooty berry flavors. The wine remains roasted in style and rooty on the finish. Luxe Vintages. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $19

TIERRA DE CASTILLA Y LEÓN

90 Abadia Retuerta 2009 Pago Garduña Syrah (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y

León). You had better love big, burly, meaty reds if you’re going to dig this Syrah, which is ultraripe and lush. The raisiny aroma is almost heavy, while the pal-ate is big but not excessively so. Baked, ripe flavors of black fruit and chocolaty oak lead to a short, ox-like fin-ish. Drink now–2015. Europvin. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $110

90 Marqués de la Concordia 2009 Hacienda Zorita Natural Reserve Unamuno Vine-

yard Syrah (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León). What makes this varietal Syrah score high is not that it’s over the top, superlush or heavily oaked, but that it’s balanced to a tee. Black cherry, blackberry and spice aromas are more solid than they are special, while the

palate folds together flavors of baked fruit, berry, mo-cha and tobacco. It doesn’t expand much on the finish, but by then the story has been told. MHW, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $25

88 François Lurton 2009 El Albar Lurton Barricas Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra

de Castilla y León). Big and forward on the bouquet, this has loud, fiery black-cherry and berry aromas. Like most Lurton wines of Spanish origin, El Albar is chewy and ripe, with a syrupy feel and flavors of blackberry, stewed plum and spice cake. The finish is chocolaty, beefy and concentrated. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

87 Abadia Retuerta 2009 Selección Especial (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León).

From the Sardon de Duero region that borders Ribera del Duero, this wine is big, minty and raisiny on the nose, with chocolate and leather aromas. It feels grab-by and saturated, with prune, raisin and licorice notes that end in a bowl of prune purée. Very chunky and full bodied , this is a blend of Tempranillo, Cabernet and Syrah. Europvin. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $30

85 Lo Nuevo 2009 Tanto Monta Old Vine Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla

y León). This wine starts with baked fruit and mus-tard aromas. The mouthfeel is pinched in the middle but syrupy and sticky as a whole, while the flavor profile deals notes of cured meat, bacon, resiny oak, ripe berry and baked cassis. Vintage Point. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $15

83 Bodega Melgarajo 2010 Valdeleña Tinto Roble Prieto Picudo (Vino de la Tierra de

Castilla y León). Cherry and plum aromas are basic and candied, while the palate on this Prieto Picudo-based wine is perky and acidic. The flavors run dilute and herbal, with cherry pie and tart raspberry notes. Lingering acidity makes the finish both fresh and sharp. Enotrends LLC. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

82 Bodega Melgarajo 2010 Valdeleña Tinto Joven Prieto Picudo (Vino de la Tierra

de Castilla y León). Briny, funky and light on the nose, this has a hint of cranberry. It feels crisp and juicy, but tastes sour, with acid-driven red-fruit flavors that are mixed with herbal, peppery accents. Very tight and modest on the finish. Prieto Picudo is the grape. Enotrends LLC. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

TIERRA DE CASTILLA

89 Bodegas Navarro López 2009 Viña Trebolar (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla).

This is a throwback wine with complex aromas, intrigu-ing flavors and a light-to-medium body. The blend is Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, and the end product offers cinnamon, orange peel and tea aro-mas in front of an acid-rich palate, with spiced cranber-ry, dried fruit and citrus flavors. Elegant and feminine

in style; drink now–2018. Fewer than 2,400 bottles pro-duced. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $33

89 Mano A Mano 2010 Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). Dark, oaky and smoky

for a value wine, this has leather and blackberry aro-mas. It feels full, chewy and substantive, with dark ber-ry, molasses and mocha notes. Smooth and dense on the finish, with leftover blackberry, coffee and chocolate touches. Aviva Vino. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $11

88 Mano A Mano 2010 Manon Roble Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castil-

la). This Tempranillo plays outside its price league, with spicy, compact aromas of prune and char. The mouth-feel is full and ripe, while flavors of blackberry, baking spice and pepper set up a generous, solid finish.Aviva Vino. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $8

84 Altozano 2010 Finca Constancia Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castil-

la). This is mildly herbal and dilute on the nose, but not unappealing. It feels medium in body, with a timid structure and simple red-berry flavors that taste slightly sweet. Fresh and mild as a whole. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

83 Secua 2008 Cabernet-Syrah (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). This Cabernet-Syrah

blend has ripeness issues. It’s fairly green and ashy in scent, and on the palate the tannins seem rather hard and underdeveloped. Flavors run toward herb-tinged black fruit and carob, while the finish is scratchy and a bit green in flavor. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $37

OTHER RED WINES

88 Bodegas 1898 2007 Ramón Roqu-eta Reserva Tempranillo-Cabernet

Sauvignon (Catalunya). This is an exotic and unusu-al wine, with mint, dry spice and mild red-fruit aromas. Light in body, it has snappy, juicy acids pushing raspber-ry and red plum flavors. For Old World fans, this is the ticket; it’s lean and tangy, with leather and vanilla notes on the finish. First Tier Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

87 Bodegas 1898 2007 Campo Lin-do Reserva Old Wine Tempranil-

lo-Cabernet Sauvignon (Catalunya). Earthy on the nose, this blend features hints of spear-mint, leather, toast and light berry. It feels lean and quick as lightning, with flashy acids. Flavors of dry berry, tobacco and earth accompany vanilla and butter twists. The finish is fresh and old school. Atlas Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

86 Bodegas Artazu 2008 Santa Cruz de Artazu Garnacha (Navarra). This Navarran

Garnacha is more interesting, offering lemony, floral aromas that are red in nature and not very stout. The

48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013

palate sizzles with racy acidity, while the flavor profile is pure and tangy, with cranberry and red plum notes. A zesty style of Grenache. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $47

86 Genium Celler 2008 Poboleda (Priorat). Wild berry, cola, raisin and spice aromas are

good, but the palate is only average in feel for a Priorat, with a lean fruit content, snappy acidity and little cush-ion for the wine’s plum, berry, tomato and herb flavors. This finishes long, minty and mildly herbal. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $46

84 Campos de Luz 2008 Crianza Garnacha (Cariñena). Raisiny and jammy on the bou-

quet, this wine becomes vital in the mouth, with fresh acidity supporting the raspberry and red plum flavors. The raisiny resurfaces on the finish, with acidic bite. Vinergia Spanish Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $14

84 Pinord 2008 Clos del Mas (Priorat). Spearmint chewing gum, cassis and raisin aro-

mas are friendly. However, on the palate this wine rings hollow, with little structure and hardly any midpalate. The flavors of candied red fruits are basic, while the fin-ish shows residual raspberry flavor and no complexity. Republic National Distributing Co. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

82 Castillo de Monséran 2008 Old Vine Garnacha (Cariñena). This is dry, herbal and

leathery on the nose. On the palate, this feels snappy and crisp, with flavors of peppery red fruits that are leafy, herbal and almost green. Turns hotter and sharper the longer it breathes. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

ROSÉS

88 Muga 2011 Rosé (Rioja). This is very light in color, with lightweight aromas of peach and

citrus. It feels crisp and angular, with fine acidity that creates supreme freshness on the tongue. Flavors of peach and nectarine are spunky, ending like the toot of a whistle. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12

86 Bodegas Ontañón 2011 Vetiver Rosado Tempranillo (Rioja). Although this is mild

on the nose, almost to the point of neutrality, there’s a speck of red fruit to be found with airing. It feels lively and a bit acidic, with juicy, jumpy flavors of red plum and cherry. Cavatappi Distribuzione. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $13

86 Ilurce 2011 Rosado (Rioja). Dusty cherry and raspberry aromas taste candied and friend-

ly. The palate on this reddish-colored wine is round and plump, with good texture. It tastes sweet but clean, with flavors of strawberry, cherry and pepper on the finish. 80% Garnacha and 20% Graciano. Jorge Ordoñez Se-lections. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

84 Sierra Cantabria 2011 Rosé (Rioja). This wine looks clear, with aromas of chewing gum,

watermelon and cherry. The palate is regular and nebu-lous in feel, while flavors of melon and peach are slightly oxidized and pithy. A blend of 50% Tempranillo with 30% Garnacha and 20% Viura. Jorge Ordoñez Selec-tions. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12

83 Taron 2011 Rosé (Rioja). This has an oxi-dized note on the nose. It has citrusy acidity and

tastes like a mix of fino Sherry and peach.The finish is chalky in feel. Tasted twice. Amphora Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

82 Bodegas Faustino 2011 Faustino VII Tem-pranillo Rosé (Rioja). Fishy on the nose, this

wine has flabby red-fruit aromas that come across rustic and raw. It feels light, but also oily and greasy, with very little fruit character to get excited about. Palm Bay In-ternational. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

PORTUGAL

2010 VINTAGE PORT

93 Duorum 2010 Quinta do Castelo Melhor Vintage Port. With firm, smoky tannins and a

dark bitter-cherry flavor, this is a dense wine. It is fully ripe and rich, with a firm kick at the back. Tough and age worthy, it expresses the schist soil of the region. Winebow. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $75

93 Vallegre 2010 Quinta da Vista Alegre Vin-tage Port. This is ripe and finely balanced,

with integrated tannins and rich fruit. Full of texture, this single quinta wine is from the Vista Alegre Vine-yard in the heart of Pinhão. It’s a complex effort, with great potential. K&L Wine Merchants. Cellar Selec-tion. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 W. & J. Graham’s 2010 Quinta dos Mal-vedos Vintage Port. Fine and ripe, this is a

sweet—while also complex—wine from Graham’s flag-ship estate. Its tannins lead easily to ripe flavors of black plum and berry juice, resulting in a wine that is firm, full bodied, fruity and generous. It needs to age. Premium Port Wines, Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $58

92 Dow’s 2010 Quinta do Bomfim Vintage Port. A firm and structured wine, this shows

complex tannins as well as contrasting acidity. It feels complete, the tannins supporting red cherry and spice flavors. It is probably not for long-term aging but will start to taste delicious in 6–7 years. Premium Port Wines, Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $48

91 Cockburn’s 2010 Quinta dos Canais Vin-tage Port. On the north bank of the river, the

remote Quinta dos Canais has produced a ripe, richly textured, perfumed wine that’s packed with sweet ber-

ry flavor. It is concentrated, complete and softly tannic, suggesting medium-term aging. Premium Port Wines, Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $50

91 Quinta do Crasto 2010 Vintage Port. Bet-ter known for its table wines, Quinta do Crasto

still retains an important Port program. This big, dry and smoky effort fully justifies that. It is firmly struc-tured and tannic, with a strong black-pepper character that is balanced by the solid structure and concentra-tion. Age over many years. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $78

91 Quinta do Vesuvio 2010 Vintage Port. This is intensely perfumed, with soft tannins that are

followed by a dry, concentrated character. From the iconic Vesúvio Vineyard, where wines for vintage pro-duction are still foot trodden, this has a ripe feel, with tannins that are suitable for medium-term aging. Pre-mium Port Wines, Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $65

91 Warre’s 2010 Quinta da Cavadinha Vin-tage Port. With firm and structured tannins,

the wine has strong potential. It also has an element of blackberry juice that provides ripe fruit as well as acid-ity. There is a cool feel to this wine, with a dry finish. Vineyard Brands. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $88

90 Dow’s 2010 Quinta Senhora da Ribeira Vintage Port. This is a perfumed wine with

fine acidity. The tannins are soft, accompanied by black cherry and ripe berry notes, making this a sweet, rich style. The Quinta Senhora de Ribeira is on the north bank of the Douro, facing Quinta do Vesúvio on the south bank. Premium Port Wines, Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $60

89 Burmester 2010 Quinta de Arnozelo Vin-tage Port. This is a firm and powerful wine,

chunky and dense. It has a solid edge of tannins, dark and dense, resulting in a mineral-structured wine that is both dry and likely to age for many years. Sogevinus Fine Wines USA. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $70

89 Cálem 2010 Vintage Port. Dense in color, this firm wine has a rich black-fruit character.

There is a strong element of acidity, which brings out the natural fruitiness of the wine. At the same time, there is enough dense texture to promise aging. Sogevi-nus Fine Wines USA. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $60

88 Quinta do Estanho 2010 Vintage Port. This has dominating dark tannins, laying over

sweet, perfumed fruit. It is ripe and full bodied, likely to develop over the next few years. It’s not yet showing its delicious side, so it does need aging. Wine Enter-prises LLC. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

88 Rozes 2010 Vintage Port. This is big, ripe and fruity, with noticeable black- and red-cher-

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ry notes. It has balanced tannins and, though relatively dry in character, is likely to develop quickly. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

87 Quevedo 2010 Vintage Port. An awkward geranium aroma mars this firm and concentrat-

ed wine. It’s dry and tannic, with a solid edge akin to black currant skin. The fruit is well hidden at this stage. P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $70

86 Kopke 2010 Quinta de São Luiz Vintage Port. Curiously perfumed and soft in charac-

ter, this seems already drinkable. It has a geranium fra-grance, followed by a strawberry flavor, creating the im-pression of a light wine. Sogevinus Fine Wines USA. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $70

86 Quinta Seara d’Ordens 2010 Vintage Port. This is ripe and soft, though there are tan-

nins at the back of the palate. The wine shows pepper, black currant and bitter cherry notes. Not for long-term aging. Luso Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

2009 VINTAGE PORT

96 Niepoort 2009 Bioma Vinha Velha Vin-tage Port. The concentration of old vines

is very evident in this wine, which uses fruit that was sourced from a portion of old vines in Niepoort’s Quin-ta da Pisca. There is a touch of bitter cherry, as well as a firm, dense core that shows a fine balance of acid-ity. This is powerful, full-bodied and packed with dark fruit—for long-term aging. Martine’s Wines. Cellar Se-lection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $100

95 Quinta Vale Dona Maria 2009 Vintage Port. This ripe and full-bodied wine from Cris-

tiano van Zeller is powerfully concentrated, showing all the right weight while also providing generous fruiti-ness. Rich black fruits and sweet tannins are layered with acidity. This is a wine for long-term aging. Adven-tures In Wine. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $57

94 Wine & Soul 2009 Pintas Vintage Port. This rich and juicy wine from the Pinhão Valley

has enormous potential, as shown by its strong, tannic character and firm structure. The foot-trodden grapes lend great flavor intensity, fine concentration and a note of blackberry juice. It will age well. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $80

93 Dow’s 2009 Quinta do Bomfim Vintage Port. This opulent wine is very ripe. From

Dow’s flagship vineyard, it is a sweeter wine than many of its kind, showing a caramel note and soft tannins. Within all of its sweet fruit is a firm, dry, structured core. Premium Port Wines, Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $48

93 Duorum 2009 Vintage Port. A firm and very structured wine, this is for long-term aging. At

this young stage, the fruit seems extracted, but this will pass as the weight of the dense damson skin and tan-nic character shines through. Complex and finally ripe. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $80

93 Mário Braga 2009 Quinta do Mourão São Leonardo Vintage Port. Floral, ripe and fra-

grant, this is a stand-out from a new entrant on the vin-tage Port scene. The forward blackberry flavor is full of sweet tannins. At the same time, the structure, with its core of dense dryness, does promise good aging. This is concentrated and full of potential. Schlossadler Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

93 Quinta do Passadouro 2009 Vintage Port. This is opulent, with a perfumed charac-

ter. It has ripe tannins, which add to the wine’s gener-ous nature. The dry edge that comes from the core pro-vides a solid, structured side to this age-worthy effort. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $80

93 Quinta do Tedo 2009 Vintage Port. Vin-cent Bouchard’s Quinta do Tedo has produced

an outstanding 2009. It’s in the soft, rich and ripe style of the year; its flavors of black plum juice and sweet ber-ry have a rounded character, with underlying structure that promises good aging. Premier Wine & Spirits. Cel-lar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Cockburn’s 2009 Quinta dos Canais Vintage Port. A smooth, rich, almost toffee-

flavored wine, this has ripe black-plum and raisin notes, with hints of pepper and dark chocolate. From what has become Cockburn’s flagship quinta, this is a delicious wine for medium-term aging. Premium Port Wines, Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $50

92 Romariz 2009 Vintage Port. This firm, per-fumed, dry wine has concentrated spice and rai-

sin flavors. Owned by the group that also owns Taylor Fladgate and Fonseca, Romariz continues to forge its own identity. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Kopke 2009 Quinta de São Luiz Vintage Port. This is a big, fruity wine, packed with

sweet, ripe fruit. There is a fine mineral texture to bal-ance this richness, which gives it a severe edge and promises aging. Sogevinus Fine Wines USA. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $75

90 Quinta do Tedo 2009 Savedra Vintage Port. This is a ripely tannic wine, made from

fruit that was sourced from a parcel of more than 40-year-old vines. While it is certainly fruity, rounded and warm, it has tannins as well. It’s a velvety wine that retains its structure. Age for the medium term. Premier Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Car-mo 2009 Vintage Port. While there are me-

dicinal aromas, suggesting some new wood in the aging

process, the flavors are of rich, ripe fruits. For medium-term aging. Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $70

89 Messias 2009 Quinta do Cachão Vintage Port. This perfumed, sweet and fruity wine is

from Messias’s flagship vineyard in São João da Pesquei-ra, high above the southern bank of the Douro. The tan-nins melt into the black plum flavor. This is rich, sweet and softly textured, and it will be delicious in a year or two. Luiz’s Grocery And Liquors. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

89 Messias 2009 Vintage Port. Bringing out the ripe fruits of the vintage, this is soft, rich

and sweet in character. Acidity accompanies the flavors of red berry and red cherry. From Quinta do Cachão and other Messias vineyards, this is soft and developing quickly. Luiz’s Grocery And Liquors. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

89 Rozes 2009 Vintage Port. This is a dry wine still full of ripe fruit. It has a rich texture, tast-

ing floral and fragrant. The result is a generous, black-fruited wine for short-term aging. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

88 Barros 2009 Vintage Port. This is initially soft, then it broadens out with caramel and ripe

plum flavors. Dark cherry sweetens the core of acidity and firm tannins. The wine has good potential. Sogevi-nus Fine Wines USA. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $65

88 C. da Silva 2009 Dalva Vintage Port. This ripe and juicy wine has good structure. It com-

bines the rich sweetness of the year with rich tannins and red cherry. For medium-term aging. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

88 Royal Oporto 2009 Vintage Port. A ripe wine from the Real Companhia Velha, this

shows a rich character, its tannins ripe and generous. It’s not a huge wine, but it does show a fine, full-bodied flavor of sweet plum. The final feeling is smooth and opulent. Admiral Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $60

88 Vallegre 2009 Vista Alegre Vintage Port. This is a perfumed wine, showing the Touriga

Nacional in the blend. Swathes of ripe, sweet fruit re-sult in a generous wine, only hinting at a firm structure. Probably for drinking young. K&L Wine Merchants. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

87 Burmester 2009 Quinta de Arnozelo Vin-tage Port. This wine’s red berry flavor and soft

structure suggest that it will age quickly. However, for now it offers a ripe texture and a juicy character. Sogevi-nus Fine Wines USA. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $75

87 Delaforce 2009 Vintage Port. The first vintage under Delaforce’s new owners, Real

Companhia Velha, this has a sweet surface, with a per-

50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013

fumed blackberry flavor. There is a touch of spice and a final geranium accent. Signature Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

87 Quinta do Vallado 2009 Vallado Adelaide Vintage Port. Floral aromas offer an entic-

ing entry to this soft wine that has the weight of a table wine. Its flavor of juicy blackberry precedes a fragrant, open finish. Quintessential Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $100

87 Rozes 2009 Quinta do Grifo Port. This is dry, with a mineral-driven, almost cool charac-

ter, atypical of the vintage. The wine is bracketed with tannins, which provides a firm character. Hints of rich-ness appear along with acidity on the finish. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

86 Quinta Dona Matilde 2009 Vintage Port. This sweet, smooth and approachable wine

shows a rounded, ripe fruit character. It tastes sweet, with a note of black plum jelly and hints of treacle and sultana. For mid-term aging. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

85 Domingos Alves de Sousa 2009 Alves de Sousa Vintage Port. This is a very floral wine,

all fragrance and perfume. As a consequence, the fruit and structure are lost. There is a touch of bitterness on the finish. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

85 Quinta de Ventozelo 2009 Vintage Port. A vanilla aroma is followed by old oak flavors and

sweetly textured fruits. Not a wine for aging, this is al-ready soft and fruity. Signature Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

AUSTRALIA

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

93 Yalumba 2008 The Menzies Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra). The Menzies is

Yalumba’s top Coonawarra Cabernet, and its quality has improved tremendously over recent vintages. The 2008 is pure and ripe, with great black-cherry and cassis fla-vors, framed by an elegant vanilla-oak note. It’s full bod-ied and plushly textured without being unstructured, and it should drink well over the next 15 years. Nego-ciants USA, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.2% Price: $50

92 Clarendon Hills 2008 Hickinbotham Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Clarendon). Clarendon

Hills is best known for its Syrah and Grenache, but it is no slouch when it comes to McLaren Vale Caber-net. The 2008 Hickinbotham is full bodied and velvety in texture, with ample notes of cocoa and crisp cassis. Hints of mint and other herbal shadings give it varietal character and welcome complexity. Drink it over the next 10–12 years. E & J Gallo. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

92 Clarendon Hills 2008 Sandown Caber-net Sauvignon (Clarendon). Chunky cas-

sis, tobacco and cedar mark the nose and palate of this textbook Cabernet. It’s round in the mouth, with a long, richly textured finish that adds nuances of cocoa and dried herb. Like its close cousin from the Hickinbo-tham Vineyard , it can be drunk now–2025. E & J Gallo. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

92 Penfolds 2008 Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (South Australia). In so-called Pen-

folds years, when the stars align for the company, smart money is on the Bin series of wines like this Bin 407 Cabernet. It comes close to the luxury Bin 707 Caber-net in terms of quality, but at a much lower price, boast-ing ample body and velvety tannins. Hints of cedar, mint and mocha accent concentrated cassis and plum flavors. Drink now–2018. Treasury Wine Estates. Edi-tors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $33

91 Clarendon Hills 2008 Brookman Caber-net Sauvignon (Clarendon). Slightly firm-

er and more structured than the other two Clarendon Hills Cabernets from 2008, the Brookman Cabernet also delivers slightly more herbal aromas and flavors than its counterparts. There’s classic Ribena-like cassis, but additional shadings of dried herb and tobacco im-part a crisp, slightly astringent edge to the finish. Drink 2014–2023. E & J Gallo. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

SHIRAZ

94 Yarra Yering 2008 Dry Red Wine No. 2 (Yarra Valley). Dry Red No. 2 is virtually all

Shiraz, though small amounts of Viognier, Marsanne and Mataro are often included. The 2008 displays slightly vegetal shadings of capsicum and tomato that may prove controversial, but there’s ample cassis as well, rounded out by a cedar note. Its medium weight and delicate, silky texture combine to impart those inef-fable qualities of grace and elegance. Old Bridge Cel-lars. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $95

93 Hazyblur 2007 Shiraz (Kangaroo Island). The quality of the wine emerging from this pro-

ducer located off the coast of South Australia continues to impress. This is a big, brash Shiraz, screaming with vanilla and mixed berry flavors, yet the result is some kind of harmony, even with the volume turned up to 11. It’s full bodied and plushly textured, with a long, layered finish. Delicious now and over the five years or more. Baum Wine Imports Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 15.5% Price: $30

93 Kilikanoon 2008 Green’s Vineyard Shi-raz (Barossa Valley). Full bodied and rich-

ly textured, this is a terrific example of Barossa Shiraz. From its smoky aromas and intense, briary scents to its complex, earthy, spicy flavors with an undercurrent of blackberry, this is a complete package. The long finish is slightly chewy, suggesting that additional aging is war-ranted. Drink 2016–2025. Old Bridge Cellars. Cellar Selection. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $104

93 Penfolds 2007 St. Henri Shiraz (South Australia ). The 2007 St. Henri remains brood-

ingly dark in both color and flavor profile. Blackberry and plum notes are accented by roasted meat, leather and mocha in this full-bodied, densely packed wine. The tannins are a bit chewy right now, but the finish is long and reveals promising glimmers of fruit that portend well for aging. Drink 2018–2025 and beyond. Treasury Wine Estates. Cellar Selection. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

92 Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier 2007 Lieu Dit Malakoff Shiraz (Pyrenees). For full re-

view see page 5. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

92 Kilikanoon 2008 Covenant Shiraz (Clare Valley ). For full review see page 5. Editors’

Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

92 Rocland Estate 2008 Lot 147 Single Vine-yard Shiraz (Barossa Valley). This full-bod-

ied Shiraz starts off plummy, with oak-derived accents of smoke and vanilla. Those elements also show up on the palate, picking up additional notes of blackberry, ce-dar and baking spice. The texture is velvety, and the fin-ish is long and surprisingly elegant. Drink now–2025. Rocland Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

91 3 Rings 2008 Shiraz (Barossa Valley). This is a great example of what the Barossa Val-

ley can deliver at an affordable price. The alcohol is high, but well buffered by an ample raspberry flavor. Despite the prevalence of raspberry and vanilla notes, it’s not excessively confected or fruity, since it’s ground-ed in savory, earthy notes. Drink now–2020. Quintes-sential Wines. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 15.7% Price: $20

91 Balgownie Estate 2008 Shiraz (Bendi-go). Full bodied and richly textured, this is a

lush, velvety Shiraz that nevertheless seems to possess enough structure to age successfully. Cassis, molasses and vanilla all play roles in the aroma and flavor profiles, while a mocha note chimes in on the long finish. Drink now–2025. Old Bridge Cellars. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

91 Clarendon Hills 2008 Hickinbotham Syr-ah (Clarendon). Big and bulky, this is concen-

trated and intense, with plenty of weight and texture to go along with dark flavors of blackberry, black olive and chocolate. A touch of mint helps lighten it a little, and the dusty tannins help frame the powerful fruit. Try af-ter 2017. E & J Gallo. Cellar Selection. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

91 Cluster M45 2008 Shiraz (Heathcote). The result of a joint venture between the

Chapoutier and Laughton families, this is a full-bodied, superripe wine. Aromas and flavors of chocolate and raisined cassis are almost Amarone-like, while the tan-nins are softly dusty in texture and the finish long. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. abv: 15% Price: $70

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91 Penley Estate 2008 Special Select Shi-raz (Coonawarra). Full bodied, dense and

creamy in texture, this is an ultradark expression of Shiraz, with flavors ranging from asphalt to coffee and black olive to chocolate. Plum and herb tangs round this out on the long, warm, velvety finish. Old Bridge Cel-lars. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

91 Pikes 2007 Eastside Shiraz (Clare Val-ley). Lush and creamy on the palate, this com-

plex wine boasts flavors of slightly mossy, decaying ce-dar, molasses, damp earth and leather, all wrapped around a bright core of red berry. Supple and lasting on the finish. Drink now–2020. The Vintner Group. Edi-tors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $28

91 Plantagenet 2008 Shiraz (Mount Barker). All three of Plantagenet’s Shirazes were success-

ful in 2008. This, the flagship bottling, offers aromas of coffee grounds, cherry and cracked black pepper, add-ing vanilla, spice and charred beef flavors on the pal-ate. It’s harmonious, savory and complex. Drink now–2020 and possibly beyond. Old Bridge Cellars. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.2% Price: $29

91 Plantagenet 2008 Omrah Shiraz (Great Southern ). A step up from the winery’s entry-

level Hazard Hill bottling, the 2008 Omrah Shiraz is another terrific value. It takes plummy fruit and cedary oak, then ups the ante with complex notes of smoked meat and leather while silky tannins line the long finish. Drink now–2020. Old Bridge Cellars. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

91 Wyndham Estate 2008 George Wyndham Founder’s Reserve Shiraz (Langhorne

Creek). This wine represents an excellent value, and one that showcases the quality potential of Langhorne Creek. It’s creamy in texture, voluptuous in feel and full in body, with a bold flavor of red currant that’s framed by ample cedar and vanilla notes. Long and creamy on the finish. Drink now–2018. Pernod Ricard. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.2% Price: $20

90 Clarendon Hills 2008 Piggot Range Syr-ah (Clarendon ). This is a potent, rich Shiraz.

It’s full bodied and thickly textured, with aromas and flavors of mocha, asphalt and plum. The overall impres-sion is somewhat chunky and inelegant but undeniably concentrated. Give it five years or so to smooth out some of the rough edges. E & J Gallo. Cellar Selec-tion. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $110

90 D’Arenberg 2008 The Dead Arm Shiraz (McLaren Vale). For full review see page 8.

Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

90 Greenstone 2007 Shiraz (Heathcote). Greenstone’s 2007 Shiraz is a medium-bodied,

open-knit representation of Heathcote Shiraz. The al-

cohol level is moderate, just sufficient to give weight to the wine’s pleasant mélange of fruity and savory el-ements, which range from vanilla and caramel to ripe berries and fine-grained leather. Probably best now and over the next few years. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

90 Wild Duck Creek Estate 2008 Springflat Shiraz (Heathcote). This is a big, fruit-driven

style of Shiraz, with great aromas and flavors of cam-phor, vanilla, dark toast and cassis. There’s just enough structure to give it focus, although it lacks a bit of tex-tural richness on the midpalate. Drink this supple wine over the next few years. Rathbone Wine Group. —J.C. abv: 15.5% Price: $60

89 Hope Estate 2008 The Ripper Shiraz (Western Australia). Hope Estate is head-

quartered near Australia’s eastern coast, but this wine comes from a vineyard it owns way out west. It’s a well-made, medium- to full-bodied Shiraz, boasting a rasp-berry flavor that’s nicely accented by a dark coffee note and an approachable, open-knit texture. Drink it over the next year or two. Winesellers Ltd. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $18

89 Katnook Estate 2008 Prodigy Shiraz (Coonawarra ). Katnook’s Prodigy Shiraz is

full bodied and creamy in texture, combining authentic Shiraz aromas and flavors with easy-drinking, open-knit appeal. Scents of tar, black olive and blackberry give way to flavors of red peppercorn and mixed berry. Drink now–2018. Victoire Imports. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $43

89 Kilikanoon 2008 Oracle Shiraz (Clare Val-ley). This wine starts off with notes of black-

berry, mint and asphalt on the nose, unfurling on the tongue to reveal tar, black olive, meat and blackberry flavors. It’s full bodied and intense, even a bit warm on the finish. Impressively concentrated, but slightly bitter as well. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

89 Leeuwin Estate 2008 Art Series Shiraz (Margaret River). Made in a restrained, per-

haps age-worthy style, Leeuwin’s 2008 Art Series Shi-raz offers up cassis tinged with hints of mint and to-bacco. The tannins are silky in texture, while the wine never strays past medium weight. Drink now–2020. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

89 Leeuwin Estate 2008 Siblings Shiraz (Margaret River). In effect, this is Leeuwin’s

second-tier Shiraz, and it drinks like one, being only moderately full in body and offering deliciously silky tannins. Bright raspberry and cherry flavors are accent-ed by vanilla shadings. Drink it over the next few years. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. abv: 13.8% Price: $20

89 Redbank 2008 The Long Paddock Shiraz (Victoria). Redbank is the Hill-Smith (of Ya-

lumba) family’s Victorian brand. The Long Paddock is a range of wines produced largely from purchased fruit, but this is a nicely balanced, easy-to-drink wine. Pre-

dominant notes are of mocha, mixed berry and vanil-la, while the tannins are supple and the finish elegant and fruit-driven. Nice for drinking now and for the next couple of years. Negociants USA, Inc. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $14

89 Yering Station 2008 Shiraz-Viognier (Yar-ra Valley). This blend of 95% Shiraz and 5%

Viognier displays some cool-climate character in its red berry and herbal pepper notes. It’s medium bodied and slightly dusty in texture, with a tart, mouthwatering fin-ish. Drink it over the next few years. Rathbone Wine Group. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

88 Plantagenet 2008 Hazard Hill Shiraz (Western Australia). Plantagenet’s entry-lev-

el Shiraz is a medium-bodied, supple wine with attrac-tive aromas of grilled meat and berry. The flavors build on that base, adding hints of coffee and asphalt before finishing long, warm and chocolaty. Drink it over the next few years. Old Bridge Cellars. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $13

RED BLENDS

92 D’Arenberg 2008 The Ironstone Pressings Grenache-Shiraz-Mourvèdre (McLaren

Vale). For full review see page 5. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

92 Wild Duck Creek Estate 2008 Yellow Hammer Hill Shiraz-Malbec (Heathcote).

Although this probably won’t be easy to locate (only 64 of the 550 cases produced were imported to the U.S.), it is worth seeking out for its full, expansive mouthfeel; in-tense cassis and dark chocolate flavors; and long, velvety finish. Drink now–2025. Rathbone Wine Group. Edi-tors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.8% Price: $25

91 Cullen 2009 Diana Madeline (Margaret River). The 2009 Diana Madeline is 88% Cab-

ernet Sauvignon, with the balance a blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Malbec. It boasts lovely aromas of cassis and tobacco leaf or dried herb, while on the pal-ate it is restrained. For all of the aromatic boldness and purity, it’s a bit austere, ending on a firm, crisp note. A 2002 tasted recently was just hitting its stride, so give it another 6–8 years. Old Bridge Cellars. Cellar Selec-tion. —J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $95

91 D’Arenberg 2009 The Galvo Garage (Adelaide ). Primarily Cabernet Sauvignon

(the balance is Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc), this is full bodied, lush and richly textured. Cas-sis, blackberry, vanilla and tobacco leaf notes give this a convincingly Bordeaux-styled profile, although much riper and plusher. Drink now–2023. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $29

91 Dutschke 2008 WillowBend Shiraz-Cab-ernet Sauvignon-Merlot (Barossa Valley).

This has been a consistently excellent offering over re-cent vintages, combining Shiraz, Cabernet and Merlot

52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013

to good effect. Oaky shadings of vanilla and coconut frame chocolaty fruit, lined with just enough of a bright cherry note. It’s full bodied and creamy textured, with a long, plush finish. Drink now–2020. Baum Wine Im-ports Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.7% Price: $24

91 Yarra Yering 2009 Dry Red Wine No. 1 (Yarra Valley). This classic Bordeaux-inspired

red blend shows its Yarra Valley origins in its crisp, mouthwatering acids and medium body. The flavors are dark and earthy, with blackberry and cherry flavors wrapped in a coat of cedar and molasses. The track re-cord suggests cellaring up to 15 years, although it’s ap-proachable now. Old Bridge Cellars. Cellar Selection. —J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $95

88 Cullen 2009 Mangan (Margaret River). An unusual blend for Australia, this is 63% Mal-

bec, 27% Petit Verdot and 10% Merlot. The blackberry flavor is bold and punchy, with hints of cinnamon and cracked pepper. It’s full bodied and slightly creamy in texture, making it a satisfying red for near-term con-sumption. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $46

87 Wirra Wirra 2008 Church Block Cabernet Sauvignon- Merlot-Shiraz (McLaren Vale).

Medium to full bodied, with nicely supple tannins, Wir-ra Wirra’s Church Block is an attractive wine for near-term consumption. Flavors in this blend of 48% Cab-ernet, 37% Shiraz and 15% Merlot range from broiled tomato to tart berry, then pick up some dried fruit char-acter with air, finishing with an unusually tart edge. In-ternational Vines, Inc. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

ARGENTINA

CHARDONNAY

91 Bodega Catena Zapata 2010 Catena Alta Estate Rows Chardonnay (Mendoza). For

full review see page 6. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13% Price: $35

89 Viña Cobos 2011 Bramare Marchiori Vineyard Chardonnay (Mendoza). This is

big and yellowish in color, which is usually an indicator of strong barrel character. And indeed, it’s very oaky and resiny on the nose, palate and finish. But in between the waves of wood spice, vanilla and resin are complexi-ties, fine acidity, good textural balance and sweet, tropi-cal fruit flavors. Drink now. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.6% Price: $45

87 Domaine Jean Bousquet 2010 Grande Reserve Chardonnay (Tupungato). An oily

white-fruit aroma is overrun by a heavy oak scent, leav-ing notes of resin and toast on the bouquet. The wine feels fleshy, and the palate keeps that theme going with baked flavors of apple and peach. This is about as oaky as a wine can be and still be very good. Domaine Jean Bousquet. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $25

87 Valentin Bianchi 2011 Famiglia Bianchi Chardonnay (San Rafael). The nose is toasty

and properly oaked, with mineral and apple aromas. It’s a touch resiny in feel, while flavors of honeyed apple and cinnamon lead to a finish that shows notes of va-nilla, toasted hazelnut and wood-spice flavors. Oaky for sure, and ready to drink. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $18

86 Las Moras 2011 Reserve Chardonnay (San Juan). Apple, pear and oak aromas blend

well. The palate on this tropical-leaning Chardonnay tastes citrusy but soft, with more flesh than acid. Flavors of nectarine, citrus and melon are good but not overly refined. Feels wide on the finish. Universal Wine Net-work. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $10

86 Trivento 2010 Golden Reserve Chardon-nay (Mendoza). This is heady but flat on the

nose, with soft, oak-driven aromas of baked apple and toffee. It feels plump yet alive due to good acidity, while the flavor profile is steered by the barrel, leaving notes of toasty apple and walnut. A good wine but one that re-ally piles on the oak and resin. Banfi Vintners. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $21

85 Andeluna 2011 1300 Chardonnay (Uco Valley). An apple aroma comes with a tinge of

mild oak, turning fleshy and less fresh with airing. The palate includes flavors of melon, apple and green herb, while the finish is pithy and citrusy, revealing a touch of green onion. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

85 Benegas 2011 Clara Benegas Char-donnay (Mendoza). This is a frisky type of

Chardonnay with little to no oak character. The nose is purely tropical, with melon and lychee aromas. The pal-ate is zesty but a bit hollow, with flavors of green apple, peach and lychee. Vias Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

85 Casarena 2011 Chardonnay (Mendoza). Butter and coconut aromas announce the lib-

eral use of oak, which the palate echoes with its round, resiny feel and flavors of vanilla, wood and baked pear. This is soft, flat and sugary tasting, with an oaky finish. Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $17

84 San Huberto 2011 Chardonnay (Argen-tina). Light, uncommitted aromas of pear and

lemon lead to a modest palate that offers fleshy melon and pear flavors. Everything about this wine is mild, in-cluding the finish, which offers little besides vanilla and cream flavors. Jomada Imports. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $9

84 San Huberto 2010 Reserva Chardonnay (Argentina ). Perfumed aromas of lemon ver-

bena and wild flower are reminiscent of air freshener. The palate is a bit heavy, but solid acidity provides nec-essary cut. Flavors of vanilla and spice are a little funky, while the finish is also oaky. Jomada Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

83 Andeluna 2011 Altitud Chardonnay (Tupungato ). Aromas of mealy fruit are off-

set by scents of air freshener and barrel-derived cinna-mon. This feels regular and round, with simple apple and wood-spice flavors. The finish tastes wheaty, with a plump feel. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $25

83 Doña Paula 2011 Los Cardos Chardon-nay (Mendoza). Oily, nutty aromas fold in

hints of field greens and onions. Apple and citrus flavors are adequate, while the wine feels acidic, with little sup-porting texture. Tangy, basic stuff with a rough edge. Trinchero Family Estates. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

83 Pantago 2010 Chardonnay (Mendoza). Teetering aromas of apple, oak and mineral

don’t hold much sway, while the palate is both chunky and oversized, sizzling with acid. A muddled flavor of white fruit leads to a finish where nothing sticks out. Winery Exchange. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12

82 Arge & Tina 2011 Chardonnay (San Juan). A waxy aroma contains a spot of citrus,

turning stalky with airing. It feels oily and heavy, with stalky flavors of white fruit and orange peel. Finishes bitter and pithy. IBESC Wine Distributor. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $9

82 DiamAndes 2011 de Uco Chardonnay (Uco Valley). This thick, resiny Chardonnay

smells like lemon pudding and air freshener. It’s flat in feel, with low acidity, pushing creamy banana and va-nilla flavors in front of a resiny finish that shows even more vanilla influence. It tastes candied and soft overall. Dourthe USA. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

SAUVIGNON BLANC

84 Bodega NQN 2010 Malma Finca la Papay Sauvignon Blanc (Patagonia). This smells

bland but clean, with a hint of citrus. It feels spritzy but simple, with papaya, green melon and mild citrus fla-vors. Good in a very basic way, but drink now before it fades. Vias Imports. —M.S. abv: 12.6% Price: $11

83 Bodega Margot 2011 Maula Sauvignon Blanc (Mendoza). This smells stalky and oily,

with a peach pit aroma. It feels citrusy, tangy and a touch bitter, with flavors of white grapefruit, white peach and grass. It shows a tangerine note and a sticky feel on the finish. ENYE Distribution Group, LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

83 Casarena 2011 Estate Bottled Sauvignon Blanc (Mendoza). Notes of vanilla, melon

and oily bitterness define the nose. The wine feels both creamy and grabby, with pithy, sweet-tasting flavors of melon and peach. A persistent, mild bitterness down-grades the finish. Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.2% Price: $15

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82 Portillo 2011 Estate Bottled Sauvignon Blanc (Valle de Uco). Prickly aromas of sa-

line and citrus precede an acidic, spritzy palate that’s home to modest mango and melon flavors. Turns rath-er bitter and oily on the finish. Palm Bay International. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

TORRONTÉS

88 Quara 2010 Viña La Esperanza Single Vineyard Torrontés (Cafayate). Lemon,

pine and bath oil aromas are more dense and serious than what’s normal for this variety, while the palate has richness, weight and an oily texture. Flavors of melon, baked apple and toffee are rich and a bit oxidized, while butterscotch and musky fruit flavors work the finish. Drink now. Pampa Beverages LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

85 Fat Gaucho 2011 Torrontés (Mendoza). This is a perfectly solid, fresh Torrontés, with

lime, pineapple and banana aromas and similar flavors. Add in some acid-based agility and lift, and this ranks as an everyday quaffer of the first order. Drink immediate-ly. Fat Gaucho Wines, LLC. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

84 Solo Contigo 2011 Premium Series Tor-rontés (Mendoza). An oily popcorn aroma

mixes with a tropical fruit note on this midlevel Torron-tés. It feels round and chunky on the palate, with flavors of pineapple and citrus. The finish deals both sweet ba-nana and lemon notes. Antares. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $18

84 Solsticio 2011 Verano Torrontés (Mendo-za). Tropical in scent, almost to the point of air

freshener, this also has an oily, bitter hint to the bou-quet. It feels choppy and citric, with a nuttiness to the core of tangerine, lemon and melon flavors. Good but fading. Solsticio LLC. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $13

83 Quara 2011 Reserva Torrontés (Cafay-ate). Light and powdery in scent, this has a dis-

tinct note of air freshener. It’s fairly creamy on the pal-ate, with lychee and orange flavors that settle into a lime note on the finish. Pampa Beverages LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17

WHITE BLENDS

86 Trivento 2011 Amado Sur White (Mendo-za). Although this wine is entering its late stag-

es of freshness, the bouquet is nice and tropical smell-ing. The palate maintains its vitality, even if it’s a bit oily in texture, while the flavors of lychee, melon and apple are good. Banfi Vintners. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

85 Amalaya 2011 Esperanza por un Mila-gro Torrontés- Riesling (Calchaqui Val-

ley). This wine smells a bit soapy, with citrusy aromas. It feels level, solid and soft, with melon, sweet pear and candied papaya flavors. It finishes sweet, as if a teaspoon of powdered sugar were part of the equation. A friendly

but simple white wine made of 85% Torrontés and 15% Riesling. Hess Collection. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

85 Finca Agostino 2010 Reserva Chardon-nay-Viognier (Mendoza). Talcum powder

and apple aromas accompany a big whiff of resinous oak. On the palate, it’s tropical in both feel and flavors, with plenty of weight and aggressive tastes of pineap-ple and mango. Feels a bit sticky and not quite precise, with a chunky finish. Fleischer International Trading, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

81 Finca La Anita 2011 Tonada Torrontés-Chardonnay (Mendoza). Torrontés is not

known for aging well in the bottle, and this one is al-most past its prime. There’s some tropicality left on the nose, but it mostly smells sweaty. Flabby on the palate, with an oily, bitter peach-pit flavor. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. abv: 13.3% Price: $15

MALBEC

94 Larraín, Lasmartres Toso & Undurraga 2008 LTU Malbec (Uco Valley). For full re-

view see page 4. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.8% Price: $52

92 Ruca Malen 2009 Kinien Malbec (Mendo-za). This big, lush, friendly and serious Malbec

is packed with prune, blackberry and toast aromas. On the palate, it’s deep and layered, the perfect bed for fla-vors of blackberry, chocolate and herb to fill. Huge for sure, but still complex, with dynamite prune and lico-rice notes on the finish. Drink now–2015. Opici Wines. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $48

91 Melipal 2007 Nazarenas Vineyard Malbec (Mendoza). Deep, dark and charred on the

nose, this features campfire and black cherry aromas. It feels fresh, alert and snappy for being so dark and ripe, with blackberry and padded oak flavors. It’s layered and a touch creamy on the finish. A modern, powerful Mal-bec to drink now–2016. The Artisan Collection. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

91 Trivento 2009 Eolo Malbec (Luján de Cuyo). Eolo is Trivento’s prized wine, and this

vintage hammers away from the start with blackberry, toast and pepper aromas. The palate is huge and ex-tracted, with dark, fat blackberry flavors that are tem-pered by graphite and minty oak. It’s as black as they come, with mint and licorice flavors on the finish. An inky, intense wine, with less than 500 cases made. Banfi Vintners. —M.S. abv: 15.5% Price: $79

91 Viu Manent 2008 ViBo Malbec (Mendo-za). For full review see page 7.

abv: 15% Price: $42

90 Chakana 2009 Ayni Malbec (Mendoza). Dry, dusty cassis aromas are full and friendly,

with added notes of earth and graphite. The mouthfeel

is round, full and fresh, with tight acids and dry, woody, spicy flavors of black fruit that are accented by vanilla and butter. It finishes toasty and lengthy, with a com-fortable fade. Only 350 cases were made. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 14.9% Price: $36

89 Gimenez Riili 2008 Gran Reserva Limit-ed Edition Malbec (Uco Valley). Good but

not excessively expressive on the bouquet, this reveals a milk chocolate element that emerges after the wine airs. The flavor profile starts with a lemony oak note, with notes of blackberry, herb and peppery spice un-derneath. The nice finish is modest, like the bouquet. Only 300 cases made. Pavi Micheli Lawson - Robert Lawson. —M.S. abv: 14.9% Price: $68

89 Lamadrid 2011 Single Vineyard Malbec (Agrelo ). This is a powerfully built Malbec

with intense aromas of mint, medicine and blackberry. It feels thick and pure, with a chewy texture and medici-nal flavors of berry, vanilla and spice. The flavors veer toward char, pepper and darkness on the finish. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

89 Trapiche 2011 Oak Cask Malbec (Mendo-za). In good vintages like 2011, Trapiche’s Mal-

becs can be impressive across the board, as evidenced by this value. The nose is fresh and fruity, with a dusting of cocoa. It feels layered and vibrant, with ripe berry, toast and spice flavors. Smooth and easy on the fade. The Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $10

89 Trivento 2011 Reserve Malbec (Men-doza). This is a solid, well-crafted and flavor-

ful Malbec. Black fruit and cocoa aromas set up a con-centrated palate, bearing chewy, dense flavors of black plum, wild berry and chocolate, plus toast and pepper notes. Production is 100,000-plus cases. Banfi Vintners. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $11

88 Benvenuto de la Serna 2008 Malbec (Uco Valley ). This staunch Malbec opens with

straightforward berry aromas, and with airing it turns leathery and cheesy smelling. It’s tight and tannic on the palate, with lemony oak, potent blackberry and herb fla-vors. Short, rugged and tannic on the finish, but loaded with flavor and spunk. Cannon Wines Limited. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18

88 Bernard Magrez 2010 La Bienvenida Mal-bec (Mendoza). Sound and full on the nose,

this features plum and berry aromas. This is a full-bodied , round Malbec that’s neither overextracted nor excessively heavy. The flavors of baked berry, chocolate and herb are nice, as is the spicy finish of mint and to-bacco. MHW, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $26

88 Hacienda del Plata 2009 Mayoral Grand Reserve Malbec (Mendoza). Scratchy berry

and cherry aromas are a bit fiery, leading to the palate that feels raw on the edges but more dense and syrupy

54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013

in the middle. Big, chunky and generous, this has flavors of creamy berry and pepper lead to a hot, full, some-what syrupy finish. ARGCA Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

88 Lamadrid 2010 Single Vineyard Reserva Malbec (Agrelo). Despite showing a grassy

component on the bouquet, this is a sturdy, generous Malbec with a mix of dark, juicy aromas and flavors. Touches of blackberry and dark plum carry an herb streak, while the finish is minty, toasted and chunky, with a final volley of menthol and herb notes. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $19

88 Nieto Senetiner 2008 Cadus Single Vine-yard Malbec (Mendoza). Cadus starts with

big aromas of berry, cola and cool earth, but it drops off on the palate. By the time it finishes, the wine has lost steam and seems a little flat. Along the way, it’s plump and easy, with mossy, earthy flavors of herbs and black fruits. Could be fresher. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $52

87 Andeluna 2006 Pasionado Malbec (Men-doza). This smells rubbery and horsey at first,

then earthy and ripe. It feels grabby and tannic, with rustic, leathery flavors of baked berry and cheese. Narrow and a bit dried out, this may already be past its prime in terms of vitality. San Francisco Wine Ex-change. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $50

87 Bodega Norton 2010 Barrel Select Mal-bec (Mendoza). Punchy black-cherry and

herb aromas form a clean, honest greeting. The wine feels good and plump, with a solid structure and famil-iar flavors of blackberry, vanilla and toasted spice. Turns minty and a little fiery on the finish. T.G.I.C. Import-ers. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $13

87 Finca Los Maza 2009 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza ). This extracted, full-bodied Mal-

bec opens with smashed berry, prune and minty oak aromas. It’s thick but limited on the palate, with beefy tannins but not a lot of depth. It tastes like blackberry and fudge—more big and burly than complex. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.7% Price: $12

86 Bodega Carmine Granata 2010 Granata Malbec (Mendoza). Scratchy berry aromas

settle down with airing, revealing a medium-plus-sized palate, with good freshness and a dark fruit flavor, like black plum, along with fiery spice. It turns dry and pep-pery on the finish. Tarasi Wineries. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.3% Price: $10

86 Bodega Carmine Granata 2009 Malbec (Mendoza ). This wine starts with rough aro-

mas of black fruit and horseradish before turning earthy and leathery. The mouthfeel is mostly good, with rub-bery tannins, and the palate bears flavors of baked red berry and herb. This is not run of the mill; it’s unusual, fruity, hot and wild. Tarasi Wineries. —M.S. abv: 13.6% Price: $15

86 Suter 2010 Lujuria Malbec (Mendoza). Baked raspberry, leather and stalky herb aromas

create an earthy nose. It feels good but a touch flat, with creamy, chewy plum and berry flavors that finish with sweetness. Good in a regular, everyday sense. Pampa Beverages LLC. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

86 Weinert 2006 Malbec (Mendoza). Initial-ly, there are plenty of hay, barnyard, horsehide

and other old-style aromas. The palate feels chunky and a touch flat, with beet, root beer and molasses flavors. It finishes with flabby definition and ripe, sweet heat. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $23

85 Bodega Margot 2009 Maula Oak Malbec (Mendoza ). This is minty, crusty and frankly a

bit harsh on the bouquet, where aromas turn charred and burnt. It feels roasted and chunky, with hickory-smoked flavors of clove and berry. The finish vacillates between being oaky and herbal. ENYE Distribution Group, LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.95% Price: $17

85 Las Moras 2007 Finca Pedernal Malbec (San Juan). Foresty, rubbery and brash, this

has toasty, woody, cheesy and berry-driven aromas. It feels creamy and heavy, with herbal and salty flavors that finish with a roasted, meaty taste. Warm, heavy and ponderous. Universal Wine Network. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

85 Mountain Door 2011 Malbec (Mendoza). This smells candied and oddly citrusy, with un-

usual blueberry and exotic spice aromas. The mouthfeel is fresh and grabby, while the flavors of raspberry and vanilla are generally appealing and alert. Short on the finish. Vintage Point. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

85 Xavier Flouret 2010 La Pilar Reserva Mal-bec (Mendoza). This smells of rubber, plastic,

creamy milk chocolate and berry. The wine has good body, but the oak element has a greasy, buttery taste. Core flavors of herbal plum and berry end with a leath-ery finish. Cognac One, LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

84 Enrique Foster 2009 Raleo Estate Bot-tled Malbec (Mendoza). Stalky in scent, this

is underwhelming on the nose. It feels adequate and solid, with basic raspberry, strawberry and spice flavors. Scratchy on the finish, with mild red-fruit flavors. Drey-fus, Ashby & Co. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $14

84 Finca Los Maza 2010 Colección Mal-bec (Mendoza ). A cool cherry aroma and a

mild, creamy paste note open the nose. The feel is fi-ery and untamed, while full flavors of cherry and plum seem raw. A cocoa flavor and juicy feel define the finish. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $10

84 San Huberto 2010 Reserva Malbec (Ar-gentina). This smells wild, with a jumpy cherry

aroma. The palate is huge and tannic in the mouth, and

it’s blasting with minty oak, marshmallow and black fruit flavors. Jomada Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

83 Argento 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). This smells leathery at first, and then it turns for-

esty and raw. It has a blocky, concentrated mouthfeel and herb-tinged plum and red berry flavors. It remains herbal without much fruit on the finish. Distinguished Vineyards & Wine Partners. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

83 Gran Altura 2007 Malbec (Mendoza). Bell pepper and tomato aromas, combined with hot

and burnt notes, don’t make for a very inviting nose. The palate is acidic, leaving tart plum and cranberry fla-vors in front of an oaky, citrusy finish. Rough and basic. Solsticio LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

83 Telteca 2010 Roble Malbec (Mendoza). This smells of raw oak, cinnamon and clove,

with its fruit essence entirely in the background. It’s creamy, chewy and tannic on the palate, with herbal, oaky, resiny flavors of baking spice and modest raspber-ry. Fleischer International Trading, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

82 Bodega Carmine Granata 2007 Roble Gran Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). This

grassy, candied specimen smells and feels scratchy, with green, fiery flavors of cherry and strawberry. Tarasi Win-eries. —M.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $23

82 Pietro Marini 2009 Malbec (Cafayate). This has an unconvincing bouquet of grass,

leather and citrusy red fruit aromas. The wiry palate has soupy, rustic flavors of roasted, leathery berry. Dry and scratchy on the finish. Table 31 Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17

81 Region 1 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Rusty in color, this wine features aromas of compost,

juniper and a touch of floral red fruit. It comes on strong in the mouth, with a leafy, rustic dried-cherry flavor, be-fore feeling hard and tannic. Pampa Beverages LLC. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $8

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

90 Artes del Sur 2009 Grand Reserve Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Uco Valley). This is true

Cabernet evidenced by its mildly herbal nose of juniper, pine and leather that’s mixed into a core of berry and cassis. The mouthfeel deals both jammy richness and crisp acidity, while flavors run from herb to black fruit to coffee. Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S. abv: 14.9% Price: $25

87 Andeluna 2010 1300 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Uco Valley). Spice, mint, herb, rasp-

berry and currant aromas form a good nose. Things run a bit choppy and rough on the palate, but over-all it works, bearing roasted berry and herb influenc-es, with grabby tannins. This is a full, stocky, spicy and

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mildly green-leaning Cabernet. San Francisco Wine Ex-change. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

87 Hacienda del Plata 2010 Zagal Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Cherry, cassis and

spice aromas are mild and comported. The wine feels chewy and just dense enough, with baked cassis, berry and herb flavors that finish toasty and hot, with a rub-bery note. Clean aromas and full fruit flavors are this wine’s best attributes. ARGCA Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $14

83 Viña Alicia 2010 Paso de Piedra Caber-net Sauvignon (Luján de Cuyo). One whiff

reveals a roasted peanut aroma that’s ultimately leathery and not very fresh. The wine feels tannic and hard, with a short berry flavor and a roasted bitterness that carries the finish. Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

82 Cruz Alta 2010 Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). This smells heav-

ily charred, like a blend of burnt leaf, charcoal-grilled hamburger and funky, roasted berry. The palate feels rough and bumpy, while the flavor profile is herbal to an extreme. Finishes green and soupy. Clock Tower Im-ports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

BONARDA

88 Lamadrid 2011 Single Vineyard Bonarda (Agrelo ). Gritty in scent up front, this features

beet and candied black-fruit aromas along with a dry spice note. It feels chunky, with powerful tannins. Fla-vors of black plum, berry, coffee and chocolate finish with a sweet vanilla taste and another helping of ripe black fruit. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

87 Siesta Wines 2011 Tahuan Bonarda (Mendoza). Heavy blackberry, bacon, rubber

and spice aromas set up a voluminous palate, with grab-by tannins and deep flavors of baked blackberry, clove and chocolate. The finish feels thick, powerful and long, with a chocolate accent. Vineyard Brands. —M.S. abv: 13.7% Price: $16

86 Tilia 2011 Bonarda (Mendoza). This is herbal and clipped smelling, with a scattering of

berry and plum notes. It feels saturated and chewy, with roasted berry, pepper and spice flavors that lead to a lightly herbal finish, with a rubbery accent and a baked fruit note. Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

85 Zolo 2011 Sustainably Farmed Bonarda (Mendoza ). A foxy berry aroma and a jammy

character define the nose on this jumpy, juicy Bonar-da. Although it tastes fresh, it doesn’t offer a whole lot of structure or seriousness. It tastes candied and full of berry and buttery oak flavors. There’s a vanilla note on the finish. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $11

PINOT NOIR

86 Bodega Margot 2010 Maula Oak Pinot Noir (Mendoza). This is a honest Pinot, fea-

turing tea, dry raspberry and herb aromas. It offers a light mouthfeel in support of mildly leafy, rooty flavors of raspberry and plum. Earthy and nicely oaked, with a rooty finish. ENYE Distribution Group, LLC. —M.S. abv: 12.4% Price: $17

85 Cruz Alta 2010 Grand Reserve Pinot Noir (Mendoza ). This appears light and rusty in the

glass, with a distant aroma of floral cherry and not much more. It feels sheer and fresh, with fiery red-fruit fla-vors of cranberry and plum. Fades away with acidity and a juicy strawberry note. Clock Tower Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

84 Familia Schroeder 2010 Saurus Select Pinot Noir (Patagonia). Dry and raw on the

nose, this Pinot includes hints of tomato and citrus. It feels creamy and oaky, with vanilla-infused flavors of plum and berry. Eco Valley. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

84 Quimay 2011 Pinot Noir (Neuquén). Big and smoky on the nose, this is hard to peg as

Pinot Noir. The mouth is grabby and leaves the feeling of extract and residue as it progresses to the finish. Fla-vors include candied berry and baked plum. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $15

83 Ombu 2010 Pinot Noir (San Rafael). This opens with a heavy black-cherry aroma that’s

topped with a hint of leaf and a whiff of plastic. It feels medicinal and tastes like a mix of cherry cough syrup, oak and mint. Specialty Cellars. —M.S. abv: 13.2% Price: $13

83 Verum 2011 Pinot Noir (Alto Valle del Río Negro ). Rubbery, stalky and dark smelling for

Pinot Noir, this is heavy, ripe and thick across the pal-ate as well. Flavors of creamy berries accompany minty, sticky oak. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $20

82 Cruz Alta 2011 Reserve Pinot Noir (Men-doza). Dry red fruit and tomato notes define

the nose on this light-colored Pinot. Flavors of earthy cherry and spice get buried under buttery oak, which carries through onto the finish. Clock Tower Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

81 Manos Negras 2011 Pinot Noir (Pata-gonia). Chunky cherry and earthy tea aromas

lead to a supremely tannic and overbearing body, leav-ing a residue as it transitions to the finish. Flavors along the way include oak, vanilla, syrupy berry, plastic and creamy chocolate. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17

80 Bodega Carmine Granata NV Pinot Noir (Mendoza ). This is dark, amorphous and

shows almost nothing in the way of Pinot Noir charac-

ter. It feels globular, tasting of beets and leather. Pruny and bitter on the finish. Tarasi Wineries. —M.S. abv: 13.4% Price: $15

RED BLENDS

92 Finca Agostino 2008 Agostino Familia Gran Reserva (Mendoza). This opens with

smoky, powerful aromas of black fruit and oak. The pal-ate feels flush, offering several levels of character and complexity. Flavorwise, this pulses with blackberry, cas-sis and fudge, before finishing with subtle prune, mint and chocolate notes. Not edgy or hard. A blend of Mal-bec, Petit Verdot, Cabernet and Syrah. Fleischer Inter-national Trading, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $30

92 Septima 2009 Gran Reserva (Mendoza). For full review see page 6. Editors’ Choice.

abv: 14.5% Price: $25

91 Ruca Malen 2008 Kinien de Don Raúl (Mendoza ). This blend of Malbec, Cabernet

Sauvignon and Petit Verdot is powerful, with a blueber-ry flavor, a mild green note, a balsamic hint and a mo-lasses tinge. It’s saturated and clampy in feel, with ag-gressive flavors of lemony oak, balsamic fruit and baked berry. Warm, oaky and full of licorice flavor on the fin-ish. Drink 2014–2019. Opici Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $65

90 Bodega NQN 2007 Malma Universo Blend (Patagonia ). For full review see page

7. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

90 Finca Flichman 2009 Expresiones Re-serve Malbec- Cabernet Sauvignon (Men-

doza). Chunky plum, berry and toasty campfire aro-mas are full and thick on this blend of 60% Malbec and 40% Merlot. The palate is stout and meaty, with pro-nounced but honest tannins. It tastes charred, with ripe berry, prune and chocolate undercurrents. Loses some of its spunk on the finish. T.G.I.C. Importers. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

90 Finca Flichman 2009 Paisaje de Tupun-gato (Mendoza). Dark in the glass, this has

a moderately complex nose, with notes of black fruit, leather and spice. It feels tight, fresh and snappy, but not excessively wide or structured. Flavors of ripe berry and cocoa lead to a solid finish, which has a controlled, smooth feel. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Merlot. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

89 Michel Torino 2009 Altimus (Cafayate). Over the years, Altimus—a blend of Malbec,

Cabernet and Tannat—has been all over the map. This vintage is quite good, with burly aromas of bacon, bal-sam wood, campfire and black fruit. It’s a load in the mouth, where minty, lemony oak flavors vie with black-berry and foresty herb notes. Leather and tobacco fla-

56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013

vors appear on the feisty finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $50

89 San Huberto 2007 Nina Blend (Argenti-na). Roasted and decidedly earthy on the nose,

this has mature aromas of coffee, spice and herb note. A solid fabric of aged tannins and acidity bolster the wild berry and cherry flavors, which finish syrupy and raisiny. A blend of 50% Petit Verdot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Malbec. Jomada Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

89 Zuccardi 2009 Zeta (Mendoza). This big, oaky specimen opens with aromas of cheesy

berry, vanilla, spice and heat on the bouquet. It feels tannic, full bodied and resiny, with tastes of wood, dried cheese, vanilla and roasted berry. The finish shows re-sidual oak, hickory and soupy berry leftovers. A bomb-er that’s fully oaked, almost to the point of being over-done. A blend of 66% Malbec, 20% Cabernet and 14% Tempranillo . Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $45

88 Cruz Alta 2009 Chairman’s Blend Mal-bec-Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah (Mendo-

za). This wine is smoky, with leather, berry and bar-becue aromas that lurk below a veneer of oak. It has a good mouthfeel, with berry, plum and oak flavors. It finishes bold, with a scratchy feel and loads of leftover barrel spice. A blend of 85% Malbec, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Syrah . Clock Tower Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

88 Finca Los Maza 2010 Maza Toncono-gy Cabernet- Syrah (Mendoza). Smooth

berry and chocolate aromas control the nose on this Cabernet- Syrah blend. On the palate, it’s lush and full, with a streak of citrusy acidity. Flavors of plum and ber-ry come with chocolate and vanilla accents. Regular on the finish in terms of length, power and complexity. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $16

87 Bodega Tacuil 2010 RD (Calchaqui Val-ley). This wine is herbal, prickly and roasted,

singing the Salta tune of oddness and earthiness. It feels medium to full in the mouth, with a roasted dark-berry flavor and plenty of herb and pimiento tones. Finish-es deep but salty, with notes of roasted red pepper and stew. A blend of 80% Malbec and 20% Cabernet Sauvi-gnon. Vine Connections. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $45

87 Hacienda del Plata 2009 Arriero Reserve Blend (Mendoza). This smells big but flat,

with rich, jammy scents of berry and cherry. The palate comes across heavy and grabby. Flavors of pastry, lactic plum, berry and cassis are heavily influenced with oak, while the finish is full in feel but short in flavor. A blend of 62% Malbec, 26% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Syr-ah. ARGCA Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

86 Ruca Malen 2011 Yauquen Malbec-Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). A bit fiery

and piercing upfront, this wine features fresh berry aro-

mas but not much complexity. The palate is medium in weight and clean, with lightly herb-influenced flavors of plum, berry and tomato. It finishes herbal, peppery and spicy. A blend of 50% each Malbec and Cabernet Sauvi-gnon. Opici Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $12

86 Zuccardi 2010 Serie A Cabernet Sauvi-gnon-Malbec (Mendoza). Very black in col-

or, this blend is soft and fleshy on the nose. The palate is blocky, big and jammy, while the flavors are leathery and herbal, delivering notes of blackberry and plum. It fin-ishes full, stewed and meaty, with a soupy accent. Good for a wide-bodied wine. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

85 Bodegas El Porvenir De Los Andes 2011 Amauta I Malbec-Cabernet-Syrah (Cafay-

ate). This wine is characteristic of Salta in its initial hit of patented leafy, earthy, roasted aromas and subse-quent entrance of brash, grabby tannins. Nutty, roast-ed flavors of baked berry, toffee, coffee and earth come next. VOS Selections. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

85 Casarena 2011 Esencia (Mendoza). This is an easy type of wine made from Malbec, Cab-

ernet Sauvignon and Merlot. It opens with simple, fa-miliar aromas of jammy berry and milk chocolate, fol-lowed by a creamy-textured palate, with thickness and oaky flavors of hickory, raspberry jam and vanilla. Be-yond that, it doesn’t offer much complexity or nuance. Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.8% Price: $12

83 San Huberto 2009 Nina Cabernet Sauvi-gnon-Malbec (Aminga Valley). This Caber-

net-Malbec blend starts out with herbal, piquant aro-mas, with a twinge of volatility and a funky masa scent. It’s pretty good on the palate, which is by far the wine’s best point, but the flavors are earthy, nutty and herbal, rather than bright and focused. Tasted twice, this note reflects the better bottle. Jomada Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $30

81 Aconga 2011 Bonarda-Merlot (Mendo-za). This is stalky smelling, with modest fruit

and a burnt field aroma. It looks and tastes weak and transparent, with sourness rising up on the palate along with notes of citrus, cranberry and cherry pie. Winery Exchange. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

CALIFORNIA

CHARDONNAY

95 Paul Hobbs 2010 Edwards James Estate Bato Selection Chardonnay (Russian

River Valley). This is a Chardonnay for red wine lov-ers. It’s full bodied and oaky, and it grows better as it warms in the glass. Airing brings out sweet honey, or-ange jam, apricot and tropical fruit favors, yet the acid-ity and minerality also develop, providing balance. The oak develops too, with buttered toast and butterscotch notes bringing additional richness. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $75

95 Paul Hobbs 2010 Edwards James Estate Wente Selection Chardonnay (Russian

River Valley). There isn’t a Chardonnay out there as rich, opulent and delicious as this one. It dazzles with tropical fruit, pear, peach, green apple, honey, vanilla and cinnamon spice flavors. Brisk, lime-driven acid-ity provides beautiful balance. It’s oaky, but the smoky, buttered-toast and butterscotch notes are nearly per-fect. Drink now with rich crab, lobster or scallop dishes. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $75

94 Paul Hobbs 2010 Richard Dinner Vine-yard Cuvée Agustina Chardonnay (So-

noma Mountain). Made in the popular modern style, this is a particular success. It shows ultraconcentrated orange, apricot, green apple and peach flavors that are wrapped into a creamy texture, and a strong coating of oak brings layers of butterscotch, buttered toast and va-nilla. This richness would be excessive without the min-erality and acidity that Sonoma Mountain brings. Don’t drink this too cold. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $100

94 Paul Hobbs 2010 Ulises Valdez Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This

hits the palate with a strong oak presence, marked by flavors of buttered toast, butterscotch, honey and vanil-la. But the wine evolves to show rich tropical fruit fla-vors that are brightened by crisp acidity. It defines Cali-fornia’s modern take on white Burgundy. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $70

92 Gary Farrell 2009 Rochioli Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For

full review see page 5. abv: 14.2% Price: $45

92 Rochioli 2011 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For full review see

page 5.abv: 14.5% Price: $46

91 Dunstan 2010 Durell Vineyard Chardon-nay (Sonoma Coast). With its brisk acidity,

minerality and dryness, this low-production Chardon-nay shares similarities with Chablis. It has an intense core of Meyer lemons and guavas, with a veneer of sweet oak. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $40

91 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2010 KARIA Chardonnay (Napa Valley). The cool 2010

vintage benefited this Chardonnay, giving it brisk acidity and finesse. It’s very rich in orange, pineapple and apri-cot flavors, with a thick jacket of sweet, caramelized oak. Drink now with rich fare, such as lobster bisque. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

90 Conn Creek 2011 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). If you like the ripe, extravagantly oaky

style, you’ll love this Chardonnay. It has opulent fla-vors of tropical fruit, buttered toast, caramel, vanilla and honey, which are brightened by acidity. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

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90 La Follette 2010 Lorenzo Vineyard Char-donnay (Russian River Valley). The opera-

tive word here is “big.” It’s intense and powerful in or-ange, peach and banana flavors, and its notes of cara-melized oak and vanilla are equally strong. Whether you like this oversized profile is a matter of taste, but this Chardonnay earns its score for sheer power and com-plexity. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $38

90 Wheelhouse 2011 Chardonnay (Sonoma County). This has ripe Sonoma flavors of

green apples, pears and tropical fruits, along with bal-ancing acids and a touch of honey-sweet oak. Overall, it achieves harmonious balance. Production was 3,690 cases. Worth a special search. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $9

88 Maddalena 2010 Chardonnay (Mon-terey). A solid wine that will appeal to Char-

donnay fans for its rich creaminess, zesty acidity and ripe tropical fruit, orange, lime, peach and honey fla-vors. Crisp Monterey acidity keeps the tastebuds whis-tling. This is Maddelena’s best Chardonnay yet. Edi-tors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $15

88 San Simeon 2010 Chardonnay (Mon-terey). Lots of orange, mango, vanilla cream,

buttered toast and cinnamon spice flavors characterize this Chardonnay, which uses grapes that are sourced mostly from the Arroyo Seco region. It tastes candied, but refreshing acidity and a keen minerality lift it above the ordinary. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $22

88 Tuck Beckstoffer 2010 Semper Ulises Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Strong in

citrus and tropical fruit flavors, powerful in oak, with a blast of acidity, this is an ambitious Chardonnay, but it’s a bit aggressive. It may calm down in a year or two. Meanwhile, decant it and enjoy with lobster or scallop dishes. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $65

87 Donovan-Parke 2011 Chardonnay (Cali-fornia). Sweet cream, butterscotch and vanilla

flavors give this wine immediate appeal. Fortunately, it also has a good core of lemons, limes and tropical fruits. The richness is balanced with crisp acidity. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

87 Elements by Artesa 2010 Chardonnay (Napa County-Sonoma County). With

sweet flavors of honey, pineapple, mango and pear, fol-lowed by an oak-driven buttered toast note, this deliv-ers more for the price than many Americans will expect. Zippy acidity keeps everything clean and balanced. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $14

87 One Hope 2010 Chardonnay (California). This is dry, crisp and clean. But if you’re looking

for richness, you won’t find it. With its savory lemon, mineral and white pepper flavors, this is an elegant sip-per. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

86 Foodies 2011 Chardonnay (California). This has a creamy texture, with flavors of but-

tered toast, yeasty lees, pineapple, orange and honey, which are followed by brisk acids. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $8

86 Frank Family 2011 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Heavy oak and lees were applied to

this wine’s rich, ripe flavors of tropical fruit, Meyer lem-on, orange and lime. It’s delicious, but it lacks nuance and complexity. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $35

86 Lucky Star 2011 Chardonnay (Califor-nia). This earns its Best Buy designation for

the rich, creamy orange, peach and tropical fruit flavors and the note of caramel-tinged vanilla from oak aging. It tastes sweet, but it provides what many consumers love about Chardonnay. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $9

85 Chime 2011 Chardonnay (Napa County). Rich, ripe and oaky, this shows fruit-forward

apricot, orange and pineapple flavors. The mouthfeel is creamy and tastes buttery-sweet. Simple, but appealing in the modern Chardonnay way. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

85 Heron 2011 Chardonnay (California). This has lots of ripe orange, lime, apricot and

tropical fruit flavors, as well as hints of buttered toast and vanilla from oak aging. It’s made in the simple but appealing popular style. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $13

84 Main & Geary 2011 Chardonnay (Califor-nia). Standard and proper, this is made in the

popular style. It tastes sweet, with buttercream, but-tered popcorn, pineapple and peach flavors, followed by a smoky, oaky tone and good balancing acidity. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

83 Shiloh Road 2011 Chardonnay (Sonoma County). This will satisfy your Chardonnay

sweet tooth with its flavors of orange and apricot jam, pineapple and vanilla-cream. It’s pretty basic, but ben-efits from crisp acidity. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

82 Olema 2010 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coun-ty). This is a simple Chardonnay: It tastes

sweet, soft and creamy, with butter, caramel, orange and mango flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $15

PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO

86 Derby 2010 Derbyshire Vineyard Pinot Gris (San Luis Obispo County). With no

oak, this features straightforward lime, orange, nectar-ine and white pepper flavors. The acidity is bright and zesty, making it a versatile table wine. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $20

85 Main & Geary 2011 Pinot Grigio (Califor-nia). This offers flavors of lemon, lime and va-

nilla, with clean, refreshing acidity. It’s a zesty wine, and

it could make for an alternative sipper to basic Char-donnay. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

83 Fat Cat 2011 Pinot Grigio (California). Made in the popular style, this tastes like an

apricot, mango and orange juice drink. It’s an easy sip-per to drink alongside Chinese food. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

SAUVIGNON BLANC

90 Longboard 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Rus-sian River Valley). Dry and tantalizingly com-

plex, with racy acidity and elegance. It shows Meyer lemon, lime, pear and sweet gooseberry flavors, with a touch of vanilla and toast from oak aging. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

88 Ma(i)sonry 2011 Hudson Vineyard Sauvi-gnon Blanc (Napa Valley). This 100% Sauvi-

gnon Blanc is made in a ripe style, with refreshing acid-ity. The complex flavors range from tart gooseberries, limes and kumquats to golden mangoes, with lots of va-nilla and sweet toast notes from the new oak. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $40

85 Donovan-Parke 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (California). Made in the popular style, this

features flavors of Meyer lemon, orange, grass, vanil-la and white pepper. Although it’s sugary-tasting, it’s brightened by acidity. Nice to drink with slightly sweet Asian fare or popcorn shrimp. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

85 Lola Kay 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). This is straightforward and easy, with

sweet Meyer lemon, grass, honey and vanilla flavors. Oak-free, it tastes like it might have a little residual sug-ar. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $16

85 One Hope 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Cali-fornia). This has strong, pyrazine-like aromas

that strike some people as skunky, but if you like that New Zealand-style scent, it’s for you. It’s dry and crisp, with citrus and vanilla flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

84 Heron 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Mendoci-no County). Off-dry in honey, orange and

peach flavors, but balanced by crisp acidity, this is a pleasant, everyday sipper. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $14

84 Roth 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Alexander Valley). Off-dry to sweetish, this has hon-

ey, orange, apricot, lime and vanilla flavors. It shows Sauvignon’s clean, brisk acidity, but that taste of sweet-ness limits its appeal. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $17

82 Sea Mist 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Rus-sian River Valley). This is a simple Sauvignon

58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013

Blanc, with sugary-tasting apricot, orange and vanilla flavors, plus some vegetal notes. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

VIOGNIER

91 Zaca Mesa 2010 Estate Grown and Bot-tled Viognier (Santa Ynez Valley). For full

review see page 7. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

90 Curtis 2011 Viognier (Santa Barbara County). This expresses Viognier’s exotic side,

with mango, apricot, orange, honeysuckle, mineral, spice and vanilla flavors that are accented by crisp acids. It’s a strong wine, with plenty of complexity—perfect for slightly sweet Asian fare. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $25

82 Mounts 2010 Viognier (Dry Creek Valley). This tastes simple and sweet, with orange soda

and tropical fruit flavors that turn watery on the finish. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $24

WHITE BLENDS

93 Sanguis 2010 Out of Line (California). This is a blend of Chardonnay and Roussanne,

which were grown in Santa Barbara County’s Watch Hill and Bien Nacido vineyards. It’s extraordarily rich in orange and mango flavors, with new oak notes of vanilla and buttered toast. Crisp acidity and stony minerality provide good balance. The richness suggests drinking with lobster, crab and scallop dishes. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $60

92 Tablas Creek 2010 Esprit de Beaucas-tel Blanc Grown & Bottled on the Es-

tate Roussanne-Grenache Blanc-Picpoul Blanc (Paso Robles). For full review see page 6.abv: 13.5% Price: $40

88 Curtis 2011 Heritage Blanc (Santa Bar-bara County). This fun, delicious wine tastes

generous in honey, pear, Meyer lemon, orange, nec-tarine and white flower flavors, which are balanced by zesty acids. The blend is Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Viognier . Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $20

88 Tablas Creek 2011 Patelin de Tablas Blanc Grenache Blanc-Viognier-Rous-

sanne-Marsanne (Paso Robles). For full review see page 9. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

86 Tablas Creek 2011 Côtes de Tablas Blanc (Paso Robles). A blend of Viognier, Grenache

Blanc, Marasanne and Roussanne , this is very generous, offering orange, pear, honeysuckle and vanilla flavors. However, the oak seems a little heavy-handed. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $27

84 Bowtie 2010 Showtime (California). This tastes honey-sweet, with apricot, lime and vanil-

la flavors, brightened by crisp acidity. The blend is Sau-vignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling and Viognier . —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $14

84 Treana 2010 Marsanne-Viognier (Central Coast). Very rich, but a little heavy, this fea-

tures orange, pineapple and mango flavors that are rem-iniscent of a juice drink. The sweet-tasting finish gives it a candied edge. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

83 Kumbaya 2011 White (California). This tastes sweet, with vanilla, honey and orange jam

flavors. It’s clean and brisk in acidity. Pair it with every-day fare. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $9

80 Immersion 2011 White (California). This tastes soft, sweet and simple. The blend is Pi-

not Gris, Chardonnay, Columbard and Gewurztramin-er. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

OTHER WHITE WINES

93 Zaca Mesa 2009 Estate Grown and Bot-tled Roussanne (Santa Ynez Valley). For

full review see page 4. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

91 Zaca Mesa 2010 Estate Grown and Bot-tled Grenache Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley).

To call this a fun wine—which it is —is to suggest that it’s not complex and compelling, which it also is. It fea-tures brilliant acidity and orange-like intensity, remain-ing bone dry despite its honey-tinged finish. Pair it with Chinese chicken dishes. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

90 Bailiwick 2011 Vermentino (California). This wine is so good, it could make Vermentino

the next big thing—except there’s so little of the vari-ety planted in California . Bright and juicy in acidity, it has flavors of citrus and tropical fruit, apricot, peach and honeysuckle. It finishes dry and spicy; pair it with pasta in pesto sauce. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $18

90 Curtis 2011 Roussanne (Santa Barba-ra County). One of the better Roussannes

out there, this is dry with balanced acidity, showing a creamy mouthfeel, plus complex citrus, butterscotch, mineral and spice flavors. It has many food-pairing pos-sibilities. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

87 Fat Cat 2011 Moscato (California). For full review see page 10. Best Buy.

abv: 10% Price: $10

SPARKLING WINES

96 Schramsberg 1997 J. Schram Late Dis-gorged 150th Anniversary Release (Na-

pa-Monterey-Mendocino). This spectacular brut-style sparkler that’s made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir still has plenty of tart acidity and yeastiness, provid-

ing the backdrop for rich, concentrated flavors of lime, raspberry, orange, brioche, mineral, vanilla and spice. It’s enjoyable now, a tête de cuvée that is among the best California bubblies of the year, and it will continue to develop bottle complexity for many years. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $200

87 Allure NV Bubbly Peach (California). For full review see page 9.

abv: 10% Price: $15

87 One Hope NV Brut (California). This tastes a little sweet and a little scouring, but it’s a nice

everyday bubbly. With a creamy, yeasty flavor, it offers pleasant pear, orange and vanilla notes. —S.H. abv: 11% Price: $15

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

96 Goldschmidt 2007 Plus Single Vineyard Selection Game Ranch Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon (Oakville). For full review see page 3.abv: 14.5% Price: $150

96 Paul Hobbs 2009 Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville).

This is a pinnacle of the modern style of winemaking in Napa Valley. The tannins are strong but not aggressive. The acidity is just enough to provide balance for the tre-mendously rich blackberry, black currant, Kahlua and olive flavors. The oak is powerful, but the wine wears it easily. The finish is thoroughly dry, long and spicy. And although the alcohol is high, it’s not impossible. You can drink it now, although the tannins could benefit from 6–8 years in the cellar. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $275

95 Tierra Roja 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). For full review see page 3. Cellar

Selection. abv: 14.8% Price: $130

94 Paul Hobbs 2009 Beckstoffer Las Pie-dras Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (St.

Helena). This hovers on the verge of overripeness, with a hint of raisin, but it wisely pulls back at the last second into a luscious fortress of blackberry, cassis, chocolate and sweet smoky oak. So smooth and luxurious on the palate, the texture dazzles, despite some heat. The all-important tannins are nearly perfect. Drink now–2016, especially with steak. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $175

94 Robert Craig 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). This hits the jackpot. You

taste it and are struck by its incredible richness, but then the balance kicks in, making it all the more impressive. It shows intense mountain flavors of blackberry, cur-rant and dark chocolate, which are set into firm tannins. New oak brings delicious layers of vanilla and buttered toast. So good now, you can hardly keep your hands off the cork, but it should develop for many years. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $80

93 Steven Kent 2009 Smith Ranch Caber-net Sauvignon (Livermore Valley). This re-

fined, gorgeous and integrated Cabernet features ripe

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raspberry and cassis flavors, with a subtle swirl of cin-namon and a wall of supple tannins. This wine will age another 5–7 years. Pair it with a steak. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $65

92 Aiken 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). For full review see page 4. Cellar

Selection. abv: 14.4% Price: $75

92 Aiken 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Ruther-ford). Atypical of a Rutherford Cabernet, this

is in fact unlike most of today’s expensive Cabernets from anywhere in Napa Valley. It’s aggressively tannic and dry, and it seems emulate an older style, though the alcohol is considerably higher than anything from the old days. With a core of blackberries and black currants, it may well develop bottle complexity over the years. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $125

92 Bentley 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). Soft, smooth and delicious, this

offers a beautiful example of the modern cult style of flashy drinkability. It tastes expensive, with refined tan-nins and ripe blackberry, cassis and oak flavors. This could be an ager. From Laura Zahtila. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $125

92 Dry Creek Vineyard 2008 Endeavour Cabernet Sauvignon (Dry Creek Valley).

For full review see page 5. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

92 Spring Mountain Vineyard 2009 Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val-

ley). This is rich, soft and vibrant in blackberry, blue-berry jam and mocha flavors, which are wrapped into complex tannins, finishing dry and spicy. This shows su-perior pedigree. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $75

92 Trinchero 2009 Cloud’s Nest Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Mount Veeder).

This showcases the winery’s style of ripe fruit, soft tex-ture and considerable oak than it does Mount Veeder’s terroir, but nonetheless, it’s delicious. Made from 100% Cabernet, it’s power-packed with flavors of blackber-ry and cherry jam, chocolate and vanilla-tinged toast. Drink now–2015. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $70

92 Trinchero 2009 Mario’s Vineyard Caber-net Sauvignon (St. Helena). Made in a ripe,

oaky style, this 100% Cabernet has powerful blackberry and cassis flavors that are a little warm. Its 95% new French oak is evident in the smoke, vanilla, toast and caramel notes. It’s a very tannic wine that locks down the palate with dry astringency. All indications suggest the cellar. Give it at least eight years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $70

91 Steven Kent 2009 Folkendt Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore Valley).

This is a finely tuned Cabernet with dark blue-and-black fruit tones and concentrated shovelings of earth and mushroom. A new vineyard designate for the win-

ery, this one’s worth seeking out. It’s suited to pair with anything braised or roasted. Let it age for another 5–7 years. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $65

91 Trinchero 2009 Central Park West Cab-ernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). Marked by

intensely concentrated, sweet-tasting cassis liqueur fla-vors, this single-vineyard 100% Cabernet is rich and oaky. With a dramatic texture of finely ground tannins and citrusy acids, it will develop over the next 5–6 years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

90 Steven Kent 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore Valley). Using fruit sourced from

Ghielmetti Ranch, Home Ranch and Folkendt vine-yards, this is comprised of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, with Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. This is Steven Kent’s most approachable Cabernet; It’s lush and concentrated, with bright flavors of grenadine and hazelnut, plus straightforward tannins. Ready to drink now, it will still be vibrant in 5–7 years. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $48

90 Tierra Roja 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). This is showing a little wear and

tear at its current stage, and the heat of the vintage is ap-parent in the raisiny note that is starting to emerge. It’s an extravagant expression, flaunting its rich tannins and east Oakville pedigree. Drink over the next 2–3 years before it fades away. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $125

89 Artesa 2009 Artisan Series Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is a rich Cab-

ernet, powerful in cherry- and blackberry-pie-filling fla-vors, which are compounded by the sweet taste of cara-melized oak. The tannins are soft and easy to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $46

87 Heron 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali-fornia). Blended from Mendocino, Clarksburg

(Delta) and Pope Valley fruit, this easy-drinking Cab is very ripe in blackberries and cherries, but also shows a good structure of tannins and acids. The alcohol is refreshingly low. A good price for a wine so satisfying. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $14

87 James Mitchell 2009 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Lodi). A great value Cabernet that’s

earthy and direct, this has just enough flavors of red and black cherry and tobacco, with soft tannins that keep the wine interesting through the long, slightly spicy fin-ish. There are handfuls of estate-grown Petit Verdot, Petite Sirah, Merlot and Malbec in the mix. Pair it with hamburgers. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $15

87 Steven Kent 2009 Home Ranch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore Valley).

This lovely Cabernet is marked by a strong scent and taste of mint that’s tremendously pleasing if you like that

flavor, but it’s a bit surprising if you are not used to it in your wine. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $65

87 Valley Legend 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This Cabernet starts out tight

and resistant. Although it has plenty of ripe cherry and blackberry fruit, there’s something pinched about the mouthfeel. It’s a good wine that will benefit from airing, but doesn’t seem likely to improve in the cellar. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $55

87 Zahtila 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Calis-toga). This is a luscious, young Cabernet that’s

filled with blackberry and cherry jam flavors, with a touch of overripe prune. It doesn’t seem like an ager, but it’s dry, and shows classically rich, smooth Napa tan-nins. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $52

85 Maddalena 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). This full-bodied, tannic Cab-

ernet features a simple delivery of ripe blackberries, cherries and sweet red currants. Pair it with everyday fare. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

85 Mia Nipote Winery 2009 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Livermore Valley). Thick and aromat-

ically muted, this is a Cabernet Sauvignon that’s walled with big tannins and is heavily laden with coconut and nut flavors. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $39

84 Deep Sea 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). With sugary, jellied flavors

of cherry and berry, along with abundant oak-derived notes of sweet buttered toast and vanilla-cream, this is easy to drink. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $32

84 Newman’s Own 2010 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (California). Newman ventures beyond

producing spaghetti sauce and salad dressing with this berry- scented Cabernet. It’s dry, tannic and good for ev-eryday consumption. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

84 Roth 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexan-der Valley). This is an everyday Cabernet, dry,

tannic and somewhat green, with tobacco and cherry flavors. It lacks generosity, which no amount of decant-ing or aging will help. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $29

84 San Simeon 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). At more than four years of

age, this Cabernet is as good as it will ever be. It’s sharp in acids and a little green, but offers satisfying berry, cherry and oak flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

83 Edge 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (North Coast). A straightforward Cabernet, with

tastes of brick, tar, tobacco and cranberry, this is a blend of Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino and Lake County fruit. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $20

60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013

83 Mounts 2009 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Dry Creek Valley). You’ll find

solid blackberry, black currant, herb and oak flavors in this Cabernet, but the texture is rough and hot, with weird acidity. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $40

83 Shiloh Road 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). Here’s a sweet, simple

Cabernet, offering black cherry, chocolate and spice fla-vors. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $17

81 Clos La Chance 2009 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Central Coast). Sharp and rough in

the mouth, this features tobacco, green bell pepper and modest berry flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

81 Peirano 2010 Heritage Collection Caber-net Sauvignon (Lodi). This Lodi Cabernet is

priced to sell, but it has a sweltering swath of green pep-per. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $12

80 Calcareous 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (York Mountain). This is just barely drinkable,

with modest blackberry fruit. It’s hot and Port-like, right through the raisiny finish. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $36

CABERNET FRANC

90 Bailiwick 2010 Cabernet Franc (Russian River Valley). Medium bodied and dry, this

has a savory spiciness, with long-lasting flavors of cher-ry and smoky, vanilla-scented oak. A coating of finely ground tannins gives it enough bite to accompany steak. One of the best Cabernet Francs from the Russian Riv-er Valley in a long time. —S.H. abv: 13.6% Price: $28

90 Trinchero 2009 Central Park West Cab-ernet Franc (St. Helena). Made in a small

production, this is a very fine 100% Cabernet Franc. It’s rich and dramatic in cherry compote and herb flavors, with smoke and buttered toast notes from the use of French oak barrels. The tannins are significant, coming from both the grapes and the wood. Give it 4–5 years to soften and mellow. —S.H. abv: 13.6% Price: $60

87 Conn Creek 2010 Cabernet Franc (Napa Valley). Soft and gently sweet-tasting, this

has red cherry, vanilla, spice and sandalwood flavors. There’s a note of green pea that’s pleasantly earthy. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

MALBEC

90 Opaque 2009 Malbec (Paso Robles). This is a Malbec of great volume and huge extract.

The first thing that’s noticed are the gigantic blackberry, dark chocolate and sweet cedar flavors. Then the tan-nins kick in, which are big and astringent. Finally, the finish lasts for an impressively long time, and it tastes

entirely dry yet sweetly fruity. A little soft, but beauti-ful now, this is perfect for most grilled or roasted beef dishes. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $30

90 Wattle Creek 2010 Malbec (Alexander Valley). This is smooth and sweet-tasting,

with dark chocolate, blackberry, blueberry and smoky oak flavors, balanced with fine acidity. The tannins are strong, just what you’d expect from Malbec, making this a great partner for steak. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $38

84 Swirl 2010 Lockwood Oaks Vineyard Malbec (San Antonio Valley). This is a ba-

sic Malbec, dark in color, dry and tannic. It has black-berry, currant and leather flavors that lack some inten-sity. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $18

83 Mounts 2009 Estate Grown Malbec (Dry Creek Valley). Hot in alcohol and seemingly

sweet in black currant and chocolate flavors, this is big and powerful, but rustic. Drink it with a cheeseburger. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $30

MERLOT

88 Trinchero 2009 Vista Montone Vineyard Daybreak Block Merlot (Napa Valley).

This is sweet-tasting, with ripe fruit that combines with a toasty oak note, producing a rich, opulent bottling. It’s dramatic and appealing, if a little direct in its charms. Drink now–2015. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $50

87 Magness 2010 Merlot (Napa Valley). This is a nice, smooth Merlot, perfect for everyday

drinking. It’s dry and rich in tannins, with blackberry, currant, smoked meat and oak flavors. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $20

87 Toad Hollow 2009 Richard McDowell Vineyard Merlot (Russian River Valley).

This is a little rustic in tannins, but it has plenty of charm. It offers pleasure with its cherry, berry, tobacco and spice flavors, plus a jacket of smoky oak. Nice as an everyday sipper. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $13

85 One Hope 2010 Merlot (California). This isn’t particularly Merlot-like. But it is a likeable,

easy-drinking wine, with lots of savory spices and layers of cola, cherry and tobacco notes. A juicy burger will be the perfect pairing. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

84 Hawkstone 2011 Barney’s Heritage Cu-vée Merlot (Napa Valley). While this is

thin and reedy, it has a good mouthfeel, with elegantly sculpted tannins and nice dryness. Its flavors veer to-ward sour cherry candy and herb. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $29

84 San Simeon 2008 Merlot (Paso Robles). This is a decent wine to serve with barbecued

fare like hamburger, chicken and sausage. It’s dry, tart and tannic, with notes of sweet-and-sour cherry-fla-vored Lifesaver and blackberry candy. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

84 Shiloh Road 2011 Merlot (Sonoma Coun-ty). Simple and candied, this features cherry

Lifesaver and mint flavors. It expresses the basic Merlot profile in a soft, appealing way. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $17

82 Clos La Chance 2009 Merlot (Central Coast). This feels scouring and rough, and the

raisin and currant flavors finish green and sharp. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

80 Fat Cat 2010 Merlot (California). This has medicinal, sweet-tasting flavors of chocolate

and cherry. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

GRENACHE

91 Bokisch 2010 Terra Alta Vineyard Gar-nacha (Clements Hills). For full review see

page 6.abv: 14.5% Price: $18

88 Zaca Mesa 2010 Estate Grown and Bot-tled Grenache (Santa Ynez Valley). A little

one-dimensional but still delicious, this has wave after wave of ripe cherry-pie flavor. Smoky, sweet oak brings an alluring vanilla note, and the mouthfeel is soft and silky. Try pairing this with beef tartare. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

87 Mounts 2009 Estate Grenache (Dry Creek Valley). This is soft, sweetly fruity and

hot in alcohol. It has a rich, tart cherry flavor, with a toasty, buttery layer. Good, but a bit one-dimensional. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $30

MOURVÈDRE

95 La Clarine Farm 2011 Cedarville Mourvè-dre (Sierra Foothills). Light in color, alcohol

and texture, this dynamic wine has a fresh pepper flavor, and is gorgeous all around, like drinking fresh rose pet-als. This could be enjoyed all day long, every day, but with only 51 cases produced, get it now or you’ll miss out on it. —V.B. abv: 11.7% Price: $24

93 La Clarine Farm 2011 Suma Kaw Mourvè-dre (Sierra Foothills). There’s magic up in

Hank Beckmeyer’s hills. The Suma Kaw Vineyard in the Sierra Foothills is a prized source for Rhône variet-ies, where the Mourvèdre typically gets blended in with Syrah, but not here, where it is given room to exude fresh, bright, earthy tones amid an intensity of raspber-ry, strawberry and just-ripe cherry. A hint of leather sur-faces on the finish. —V.B. abv: 12.4% Price: $24

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91 Bokisch 2010 Belle Colline Vineyard Monastrell (Clements Hills). For full re-

view see page 6.abv: 14.5% Price: $21

SYRAH

97 Sanguis 2009 Six White Horses Syrah (California). Winemaker Matthias Pippig

brings Syrah to a whole new level with this stunning-ly dramatic bottling. Don’t worry about the California appellation, a peculiarity of the winery’s ownership. It’s made entirely from Santa Barbara grapes, namely from Watch Hill in Los Alamos and Bien Nacido in Santa Maria Valley. The intensity of fruit defies description. It suggests enormous blackberry and creamy-sweet chocolate, larded with bacon and sprinkled with black pepper —and that doesn’t even begin to describe the toasty sweetness of the 100% new oak barrels. This is the best California Syrah of the vintage, and one of the greatest Syrahs the state has ever produced. This op-ulence comes at a cost, however: The alcohol is high. —S.H. abv: 15.6% Price: $75

96 Zaca Mesa 2009 Black Bear Block Estate Grown and Bottled Syrah (Santa Ynez

Valley). For full review see page 3.abv: 14.5% Price: $60

93 Zaca Mesa 2009 Mesa Reserve Estate Grown and Bottled Syrah (Santa Ynez

Valley). For full review see page 4. abv: 14.5% Price: $44

92 Zaca Mesa 2009 Eight Barrel Estate Grown and Bottled Syrah (Santa Ynez

Valley). There’s a soft voluptuousness to this Syrah that makes it instantly drinkable. It’s intense in blackberry, cassis, mocha and grilled prosciutto notes, with lots of new French-oak influence adding toast, vanilla and car-amel flavors. As sweet as it tastes, it finishes dry, long and spicy. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

91 Spring Mountain Vineyard 2009 Estate Bottled Syrah (Napa Valley). Here’s a tight,

focused controlled Syrah. It shows the fierce tannins of its mountain origin, plus intense blackberry jam, cas-sis and beef jerky flavors. Drinkable now, but it really needs a few years to mellow. The estate vineyard is on Spring Mountain in the Mayacamas range. Cellar Se-lection. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $55

91 Zaca Mesa 2009 Estate Grown and Bot-tled Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). For full re-

view see page 7.abv: 14.5% Price: $25

90 Cerro Prieto 2009 El Bordo Reserve Syr-ah (Paso Robles). For full review see page 7.

abv: 16.8% Price: $39

90 Mounts 2009 Estate Syrah (Dry Creek Valley). Sweet-tasting, jammy fruit and lots

of camarmelized new oak mark this young, exuberant

Syrah . The blackberry, black currant, mocha and lico-rice flavors have a long, peppery finish. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $28

88 Lava Cap 2010 Estate Syrah (El Dorado). A dense Syrah, this dances with black plum and

blackberry flavors, with soft tannins and medium heft. Tufts of spice and earth round out the finish. This is just right for wintertime, ideal for cassoulet or other kinds of thick stews. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $21

87 Graziano 2009 Syrah (Mendocino). Big, toasty and brooding at first, this calms down and

becomes a glass of pleasing dark fruits and soft tannins, with a lilt of spice. A fine midweek wine that will pair with a range of meats and taste perfectly good on its own. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

87 Klinker Brick Winery 2010 Farrah Syrah (Lodi). A Syrah for all the California Zin lovers

out there, this is heavy and brimming with dark cherry flavor amid a wall of tannins, leather and earth. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $20

82 Cedar Creek Ranch & Vineyards 2008 Syrah (Fair Play). This Sierra Foothills Syrah

from the very promising area of Fair Play. It tastes of stewed raspberry and feels slightly syrupy, possibly due to overripe fruit. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $36

PETITE SIRAH

93 Grgich Hills 2008 Miljenko’s Vineyard Es-tate Grown Petite Sirah (Napa Valley). For

full review see page 4. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.8% Price: $55

91 Sheldon 2007 Deviant Velocity-Ripken Vineyard Petite Sirah (Lodi). A complex,

dark-cherry- flavored Petite Sirah, this is marked by bright fruit and tame tannins, giving the wine a mouth-watering vibrancy. Intense but full of life, bottle aging has helped this wine, as it often does with a variety like Petite Sirah, which can be overwhelming when young. In this case, the years have opened it up, lending an ele-gance that makes the wine ideal for meaty foods. —V.B. abv: 13.6% Price: $28

88 Cedar Creek Ranch & Vineyards 2008 Estate Petite Sirah (Fair Play). A bold,

brawny Petite Sirah from the Sierra Foothills, this is gi-gantic and muscular. It has big expressions of milk choc-olate and red raspberry, with puckering tannins that are interesting and built to age. Licorice, spice and a hint of smoky violet mark the rest of its profile. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $34

87 Artezin 2010 Petite Sirah (Mendocino County). This is a concentrated, leathery Pe-

tite Sirah, with gobs of milk chocolate, mellowed tan-nins and decent depth. With a back layer of peppery

spice, it’s ready to drink now. An everyday wine that’ll pair well with meaty dishes covered in sauce. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $25

87 Mounts 2008 Petasera Reserve Petite Sirah (Dry Creek Valley). Here’s a soft, high-

alcohol effort with Petite Sirah’s big tannins and plenty of ripe, briary blackberry and mocha flavors. It’s a robust sipper whose sweet glycerine note will provide a good foil for grilled meats. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $55

86 Earthquake 2010 Petite Sirah (Lodi). A gi-gantic mouthful of sinewy tannins, Earthquake

Petite is big and generously loaded with dark plum and raspberry flavors. A highway of bittersweet chocolate and tar circle through the sizeable finish. Drink it with rich, hearty food. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $26

86 Penumbra 2010 Petite Sirah (North Coast). It’s hard to get around the tannins

that battle in this wine, which is savory and dark with a smoky aura. Lay it down another couple of years or let it air out a bit before pouring. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $23

86 The Crusher 2011 Petite Sirah (Clarks-burg). A dark, jammy explosion of baked red

fruit and blackberry, this is marked by its toasty oak and its subtle hint of bacon, benefitting from breathing for 10–20 minutes before drinking. Full in body and tan-nin, it has a vanilla-infused finish. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

85 Bray 2008 Petite Sirah (Shenandoah Val-ley). This opens with a smack of bright red

fruit, dark plum and leathery pouch overtones, with a slight hint of licorice on the finish. Pair with big, bold foods. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $20

85 Mounts 2009 Estate Petite Sirah (Dry Creek Valley). Soft, hot and somewhat simple,

this Petite Sirah has blackberry, espresso, black pepper and dark chocolate flavors. It’s a good wine for drinking now with barbecue slathered in rich sauce. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $28

85 San Simeon 2008 Petite Sirah (Paso Ro-bles). Classic warm-climate Petite Sirah, this

is inky-black, with bone-dry, hard tannins, yet it shows some softness. It bears blackberry, dark chocolate, black pepper and cured meat flavors. A little rustic and one-dimensional, but fine for barbecue. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

82 Lucky Star 2011 Petite Sirah (California). This is drinkable but not overly interesting, with

a good berry flavor. It’s marked with an off-putting aro-ma of cigarette ash, and it feels raw. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $9

82 Pennywise 2011 Petite Sirah (California). Soft and simple, this has notes of raspberry Pop

Tart, vanilla, buttered cinnamon toast and brown sugar. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

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81 Main & Geary 2011 Petite Sirah (Califor-nia). Dry and clean, this has modest cherry-

berry flavors. It’s rustic and raw in texture, with a harsh finish. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $18

ZINFANDEL

93 Elyse 2009 Black-Sears Vineyard Zinfan-del (Howell Mountain). There’s a delicious

approachability to this Zinfandel that makes it drinkable now despite having some formidable Howell Mountain tannins. In that, it calls to mind the wonderful 2008. The flavors are enormously concentrated, with notes of blackberry, black currant, cured meat, black pepper and baking spice, lending terrific complexity that changes in the glass with every sip. It displays Zinfandel’s wild, brambly character while preserving Napa’s elegance and balance. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $37

92 Newsome-Harlow 2010 Big John Zinfan-del (Calaveras County). Deep and delicious

with inviting layers of raspberry and berry cobbler, Big John is a brambly, structured Zin, with bright zaps of black pepper and clove, plus a long, satisfying finish. This is perhaps the best Zin in all of Calaveras County right now. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $36

91 Newsome-Harlow 2010 Shake Ridge Ranch Zinfandel (Amador County). This is

a savory Zin with a leathery coffee tone that’s also de-lightfully fresh and marked by red fruit notes. Cerebral, with noticeable acidity and a long finish, the wine is reminiscent of a fine bottle of crème de violette, flow-ery—yet rich. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $36

90 Newsome-Harlow 2010 The Donner Par-ty The Dalton Ranch Zinfandel (Calav-

eras County). Dripping with notes of juicy black fruit, sweet tobacco and clove, this is layered and full-bod-ied, with soft tannins and an intensity that should grow more intriguing with age. From the gorgeous Calaveras County Dalton Vineyard, this is blended with 11% Pe-tite Sirah, also from Dalton. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $36

90 Zahtila 2008 Oat Hill Estate Zinfandel (Calistoga ). Very ripe and soft, this has black-

berry, plum and chocolate flavors that veer toward prune and raisin territory. It’s dry, spicy and a little hot, but is a great example of a warm-climate Zin at the high-est level. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $45

89 Frank Family 2010 Zinfandel (Napa Val-ley). This is definitely high in alcohol, with a

notable chili pepper burn, but that’s the winery’s style. Without that ripeness, you wouldn’t have these intense, briary blackberry and mulberry flavors. Notes of choco-late, raisin, anise liqueur and exotic spice provide ad-ditional complexity. This is a Zin that needs rich, oily meats and cheeses to balance it out. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $37

89 Mounts 2009 Old Vines Estate Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). Very rich and fruity, with

jammy raspberry and cherry flavors that taste almost dessert sweet, this also offers a delicious note of black currant sprinkled with hints of cinnamon and brown sugar. A great barbecue wine. The alcohol is a little high, but that’s customary of Dry Creek Zin. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $30

89 Newsome-Harlow 2010 Zinfandel (Calav-eras County). Tight and concentrated at first,

this opens up with air, exuding an array of blue and red fruit aromas and flavors, most prominently raspberry, with a chocolate chaser on the finish. A blend of Zin from four different vineyards—plus 14% Petite Sirah—aged mostly in new American oak, this is a crowd-pleas-ing wine that is a great representation of the region. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $24

89 St. Francis 2010 Monticello Vineyard Kaarin’s Terrace Zinfandel (Sonoma Val-

ley). The alcohol is very high on this Zin, but it wears its heat and glycerine well, becoming part of the wine’s overall personality. It bears includes ripe, brambly fla-vors of blackberry, raisin, mocha, black pepper and ex-otic spice, with thick, fine tannins. Defines this style of Sonoma Zinfandel. —S.H. abv: 16% Price: $45

88 Fiddletown Cellars 2010 Old Vine Zinfan-del (Amador County). This is a dense, chewy

Zin with lush berry flavors. It has notes of blackberry juice and tar, with hints of tobacco and vanilla on the back palate. Made from old vines and blended with 6% Barbera and 4% Alicante Bouschet. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $19

88 Plungerhead 2011 Old Vine Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). For full review see page

9. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

87 Klinker Brick Winery 2010 Marisa Vine-yard Zinfandel (Lodi). Dark as Petite Sirah,

this is a huge, dark old-vine Zinfandel that’s dominated by berry and oak flavors. It’s smooth and soft, finishing with rivers of milk chocolate and caramel. —V.B. abv: 15.8% Price: $30

87 Klinker Brick Winery 2010 Old Ghost Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). This is called

Old Ghost because the fruit used to make the wine is sourced from old vines. It’s big, thick and dense, with layers of ripe blackberry, tar and smoky oak. A cigar smoker’s kind of wine, this is a grand old Lodi Zin. —V.B. abv: 15.9% Price: $37

87 Newsome-Harlow 2010 Frank Herbert Vineyard Zinfandel (El Dorado County).

Planted in the 1970s, the Frank Herbert Vineyard is owned by winemaker Marco Cappelli. Newsome-Har-low winemaker Scott Klann made a great Zin from this vineyard in 2009, but the 2010 seems sweeter, dialed up on a lot of levels, with more intensity of fruit and alcohol and less of the savory spice that was so attrac-

tive last vintage. Still, it’s worth tasting for the sake of understanding the vicissitudes of vineyard, vintage and vintner. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $36

87 Renwood 2010 Premier Old Vine Zinfan-del (Amador County). Renwood is slowly

coming back to life in Amador after having been bought by a group of international investors with interests in Argentina and Uruguay. Premier is a good first step, un-doubtedly a powerhouse, bearing smoky, tannic moun-tain fruit and layers of toffee, blackberry and dark rasp-berry, with a bass line of spice. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $20

86 Klinker Brick Winery 2010 Old Vine Zin-fandel (Lodi). A classically bombastic Lodi

Zin, this is sweet and soft, direct in its embrace of American oak. A note of vanilla marks the finish, plus a healthy dollop of alcohol. —V.B. abv: 15.8% Price: $19

86 Renwood 2010 Timberline Zinfandel (Amador County). This has very dark fruit

swirling around in serious concentrations. Dense and brooding, it’s dominated by leather and tobacco flavors, finishing with sticky, dusty tannins. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $40

86 St. Francis 2010 Three Valleys Zinfandel (Sonoma County). Here’s a big, overripe Zin-

fandel, with raisin, prune and molasses flavors. The al-cohol is very high, and the finish is bone dry and tannic. Really captures this outsized Sonoma Zin style. Drink now with barbecue. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $40

85 Chacewater 2010 Zinfandel (Sierra Foot-hills). This is full of sweet-tasting blackberry,

raspberry and vanilla flavors, with a backbeat of dusty tannins. It’s medium bodied with decent structure, and the finish features with notes of smoke and tar. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $18

85 Mounts 2009 Estate Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). A sound, everyday Zinfandel, this may

be a little green and underripe, but it does show some berry-cherry flavor. The alcohol is very high. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $18

85 One Hope 2011 Zinfandel (California). While this Zin is pretty standard fare, it features

plenty of ripe, upfront raspberry and cherry notes, with the spiciness that makes Zinfandel so savory. The ap-parent sweetness is nicely balanced by acidity. —S.H. abv: 11.1% Price: $15

85 St. Francis 2010 Old Vines Zinfandel (So-noma County). High alcohol gives this wine

distinct heat, as well as a sweet, glycerine-driven edge. The wild blackberry, prune and pepper flavors are char-acteristic of ripe Zinfandel. —S.H. abv: 15.8% Price: $20

84 Bargetto 2010 Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). This is a simple Lodi Zinfandel made using fruit

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from old vines. It tastes of juicy, brambly blackberry. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $18

84 St. Francis 2010 Amann Vineyard Old Vines Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). This

tastes almost like a fortified wine, with strong alcohol heat boosting very dry wild-blackberry, pepper and prune flavors. —S.H. abv: 16.1% Price: $45

84 St. Francis 2010 Rowe Vineyard Zinfan-del (Sonoma Valley). High alcohol makes

this wine seem hot. It’s also very dry, and rich, oily foods will coax out its sweet berry essence. —S.H. abv: 15.8% Price: $45

84 Zahtila 2008 Mayo Family Vineyards Old Vine Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). An

overripe, high-alcohol wine, this shows bold flavors of raisin, plum, prune, dark chocolate and spice. It almost tastes like Port, although it’s dry. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $35

83 Donovan-Parke 2011 Zinfandel (Califor-nia). It’s a little bitter and harsh in profile, with

some overripeness. But if you can get past that, you’ll find a dry, fruity and spicy Zin. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $15

82 Maddalena 2010 Zinfandel (Paso Ro-bles). This tastes sweet, sharp and minty, like

toothpaste mixed with cherry pie filling. It also features Zinfandel’s characteristic warmth due to its high alco-hol, spice and bramble qualities. It’s a decent example of a simple, warm-climate Zin. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $17

81 Peirano 2011 The Immortal Zin Zinfan-del (Lodi). At first, this smells unexpectedly of

almonds. But overall, this is a viscous bottle of raisin, blackberry and tar flavors. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $12

PINOT NOIR

97 Failla 2010 Hirsch Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This shows the trifecta

of winemaker Ehren Jordan’s deft hand, the fabulous Hirsch Vineyard and the wonderful 2010 vintage. Even if you knew nothing of the wine’s pedigree, you’d be dazzled by its sheer richness of raspberry, cherry, cola and herb flavors, plus the firm, stone-driven minerality, the dryness, the feral mountain hints, the acidity and the overall dazzling structure. The alcohol level is com-paratively restrained, providing just the right touch of warmth. New oak clocks in at only 30%, imbuing the wine with a nice seasoning of smoke. Tasted in a chal-lenging lineup, it easily stood out. Definitely worth searching for, but only 375 cases were produced. Drink this wine now–2022. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $65

95 La Follette 2010 Van der Kamp Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Mountain). For full re-

view see page 3.abv: 14.5% Price: $40

94 Cambria 2010 Estate Grown & Bottled Clone No. 4 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Val-

ley). For full review see page 3.abv: 14.9% Price: $52

93 Cambria 2010 Barbara’s Clone 667 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). For full review

see page 4.abv: 14.9% Price: $80

93 Sequana 2010 Sundawg Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Green Valley). This bears a silky

texture that’s light and pleasant on the palate, but there’s nothing light about the flavors. It offers blasts of ripe, pure raspberry, cherry and Dr. Pepper, with lots of ex-otic spice. Decant and drink now, but it should also age for up to eight years. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $50

93 Tuck Beckstoffer 2010 Pinot Noir (So-noma Coast). A very delicious Pinot Noir,

this has tremendous waves of cherry compote, red lico-rice, sweet pomegranate, cocoa and smoky sandalwood flavors. It’s a great representative of the 2010 vintage. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $85

93 Tuck Beckstoffer 2009 Ellenboch Vine-yard Semper Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).

This is a very big, rich, dense Pinot Noir, and some will fault it for having the high alcohol and full body that are characteristic of Cabernet. Nonetheless, this is im-mensely complex and dramatic, offering wave after wave of concentrated black cherry and red currant, with notes of bacon and sweet oak. Gets better and more attractive as it warms in the glass. Drink now–2016. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $85

93 Tuck Beckstoffer 2009 Gold Ridge Vine-yard Semper Pinot Noir (Russian River

Valley). If the first duty of a wine is to be delicious, this Pinot more than lives up to the obligation. It doesn’t show the delicacy or silkiness of a classic Russian River Pinot Noir, being a little heavy and full-bodied. But it’s fabulously rich and opulent, offering a tapestry of berry, mocha, spice and smoky oak notes. Soft, smooth tannins and crisp acids add to the pleasure. Drink this over the next few years. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $85

92 Bailiwick 2010 Foray Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This feels lush and important

right out of the bottle, tantalizing with tart cherry, cola and persimmon flavors that are wrapped in acids and tannins. Give it up to six years, and enjoy. All of the fruit comes from the Foray Vineyard in the Green Valley. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $40

92 Bailiwick 2010 Silver Pines Vineyard Pi-not Noir (Sonoma Mountain). The vineyard

is a fine one, the fruit source for highly regarded Pinots from Tandem and Bailiwick’s own Silver Pines label. The wine is dry and silky, with strong acidity and tan-nins that currently render it tough to appreciate. Give it

5–6 years to let the raspberry and cola flavors integrate with the oak. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $44

92 Davies 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Sparkling wine specialist Schramsberg ventures

out to the Fort Ross area to tinker with Pinot Noir un-der its Davies brand. This shows intensity and concen-tration, with powerful raspberry and cherry essences that are compounded by sweet-tasting, smoky oak. Im-pressive now, but it should gain traction in the bottle over the next four years. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $50

92 Domaine Carneros 2009 The Famous Gate Pinot Noir (Carneros). This is the win-

ery’s best new Pinot Noir. Essentially a barrel selection, using different clones from multiple sites in the estate vineyard, it’s spicy and dry, with complex flavors of rasp-berry and cherry tart, Dr. Pepper, spice, sandalwood and anise, as well as a hint of mushroomy funk. Enjoy now–2015. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $70

92 La Follette 2010 Sangiacomo Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This is for

drinking now with chicken or beef tacos. It defines the approachable style of drink-me-now Pinot Noir, with rich, complex flavors of raspberry and cherry jam, vanil-la, buttered toast and cinnamon. The silky texture and vibrant acidity are nearly perfect. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $40

92 Sequana 2010 Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir (Green Valley). Just delicious, showing the

promise of the 2010 vintage. The wine is ripe and in-tense in red cherry, cranberry and spice flavors, with a rich jacket of smoky oak. Feels like pure silk, while no-table alcohol provides a boost of warmth for a chilly eve-ning. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $45

91 Bailiwick 2010 Pinot Noir (Chalone). Light and silky, this packs a real punch in com-

plexity, with layers of raspberry, cherry, cola and sweet oak. There’s a mushroom-driven earthiness you might call Burgundian. The tightness suggests aging, possibly over the long haul. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $44

91 Domaine Carneros 2010 Clonal Series Dijon 777 Pinot Noir (Carneros). Made

from a single clone, this exuberant effort zeroes in on pure cherry-pie and red currant flavors, enhanced by sweet-tasting, smoky oak. There’s a slight funkiness that adds to the complexity. Easy to like now, and it will gain traction under proper cellar conditions for 5–6 years. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $55

90 Cambria 2010 Estate Grown & Bottled Clone No. 115 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria

Valley). For full review see page 7. abv: 13.8% Price: $52

90 Longboard 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian Riv-er Valley). So delicious and easy to drink, you

won’t be able to resist pouring multiple glasses. It’s soft

64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013

and spicy, with marvelous raspberry, cherry and red lic-orice flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $33

89 Bailiwick 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Juicy and brisk in acidity, this mouth-

watering Pinot Noir is dry and silky. It has cool-climate cherry, pomegranate and cola flavors, with a nice mush-roomy earthiness. Decant this elegant wine for several hours before opening it. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $36

89 Bailiwick 2010 Borderline Pinot Noir (Marin County). Intense and nervy, this has

high acidity that gives it a mouthwatering quality. It’s absolutely dry, with bright cherry-pie and spice fla-vors. Shows real promise for Marin County Pinot Noir. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $36

88 Bailiwick 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). There’s a dried mushroom note to this

Pinot that dominates over the raspberry and cherry fla-vors. It’s bone dry and silky in the mouth, with a sweet, jammy finish. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $36

88 Cerro Prieto 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir (Paso Robles). The is dry and well balanced,

with red licorice, red currant and cola flavors that are enhanced by smoky oak influence. The alcohol shows through with some peppery heat. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $35

88 Tuck Beckstoffer 2009 Silver Eagle Vine-yard Semper Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).

The oak is a little too strong on this Pinot. Impressive as the underlying wine is in concentrated raspberry and cherry flavors, the barrel influence is dominant, with sweet buttered toast and caramel. Drink it now, after a brief decanting. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $85

87 Domaine Carneros 2010 Clonal Series Block 405 Pinot Noir (Carneros). This Pi-

not comes from a small block in the estate vineyard, on the Napa side of Carneros. Right out of the bottle, it’s very dry and acidic, marked by fresh, jammy raspberry and cherry flavors. All indications point to the cellar, ex-cept for a funkiness that may become more pronounced with age. It’s risky, but try holding through 2016. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $55

87 Krutz 2009 Akins Family Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). A concentrated Pi-

not with layers of lavender, violet and strawberry com-pote, the medium weight of this wine has a ripe cherry note throughout. It might mellow with age, and it’s a good representation of Anderson Valley’s fine 2009 vin-tage. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $38

87 Lucienne 2010 Smith Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). This is dark

in color and heavy for Pinot Noir. In fact, it is almost like Syrah , with deep, rich flavors of black cherry jam,

brown sugar, chocolate and toast. Good and delicious, but atypical for the variety. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

86 Toad Hollow 2010 Goldie’s Vineyard Pi-not Noir (Russian River Valley). A fairly

lean Pinot, this lacks voluptuousness, but it’s dry and crisp, with fine cherry, cranberry, tobacco and pepper flavors. Give it some airing and drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

85 Domaine Carneros 2009 La Terre Prom-ise Pinot Noir (Carneros). Dry and tart in

Carneros acidity, this has ripe, forward flavors of rasp-berry jam, cola and spice. It’s pretty strong in mushroom and barnyard funkiness, which may turn some people off. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $48

85 Pennywise 2011 Pinot Noir (California). This shows simple, candied raspberry and

cherry flavors, with a nice spiciness. The mouthfeel is creamy and silky. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

83 Heron 2011 Pinot Noir (Monterey Coun-ty). This features cherry, cola and red currant

flavors, but they seem thin, allowing the alcohol to shine through. Even though it’s a modestly low 13% by vol-ume, the wine feels hot. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $19

82 Donovan-Parke 2011 Pinot Noir (Califor-nia). This is a rustic Pinot Noir, harsh in the

mouth, with some green, mint-like flavors. It offers enough raspberry and cherry notes to satisfy at a party. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

82 Harlow Ridge 2011 Pinot Noir (Lodi). Light as a feather in body and alcohol, this has

a faint raspberry note within, as well as a microscopic inkling of mushroom, but it lacks depth and character. —V.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

82 Heron 2011 Pinot Noir (California). Acid-ity, heat and green, stalky flavors mark this Pinot

Noir. It does offer some decent cherry and cola flavors, and is properly silky and dry. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $14

82 Leese-Fitch 2011 Pinot Noir (California). This wine is simple, with a sweet taste of rasp-

berry-flavored bubblegum candy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

82 Lucky Star 2011 Pinot Noir (California). This tastes candy-sweet on the palate, with a

raspberry Lifesaver flavor. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $9

81 Estancia 2009 Stonewall Vineyard Re-serve Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands).

This Pinot Noir tastes vegetal and harsh, with weirdly sweet oak flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

RED BLENDS

95 Sanguis 2009 Gravity (Santa Barbara County). Sanguis combines its signature of ex-

ceptional power with finesse, producing a wine that is so dramatic as to defy belief. Syrah and Cabernet Sau-vignon provide the blackberry jam and chocolate rich-ness, while Viognier brings a bright floral note, and even Roussanne has something to say by way of orange tart-ness. New oak is evident, but perfectly in balance with the wine’s volume. Stunning and dramatic, but not an ager, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $70

94 Sanguis 2009 Levity (Santa Barbara County). This is a big, voluptuous and unbe-

lievably concentrated wine. The blend is Grenache, Syr-ah and Viognier , grown in two great vineyards, Thomp-son and Bien Nacido. It dazzles with intense cherry and raspberry purée flavors that are blanketed in sweet, smoky, vanilla-scented new oak. The alcohol is high, but the wine wears it well. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 15.6% Price: $70

93 Spring Mountain Vineyard 2009 Elivette (Napa Valley). One sip is all it takes to fall

in love with this wine. It’s soft, gentle and enormous-ly rich, with a velvety mouthfeel. Blended from all five classic Bordeaux varieties, it shows luxurious blackberry jam, cherry pie, red licorice, cocoa, cinnamon spice and sweet-smoky sandalwood flavors. Drink now–2015, be-fore it loses its fresh primary fruit. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $125

92 Buoncristiani 2008 O.P.C. 10th Anniver-sary (Napa Valley). This wine earns a high

score for sheer extravagance. It’s soft, velvety and sweet-tasting, boasting chocolate, cherry, currant, cassis, ba-con and smoky oak flavors. High alcohol makes it feel a little warm, but that’s the price you pay for such ripe-ness. Made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Mer-lot and Malbec, it will pair beautifully with barbecue. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $48

91 Dry Creek Vineyard 2008 Meritage (So-noma County). Soft, gentle and rich, this is

made for drinking now with Cabernet-friendly foods. It offers blasts of blackberry and cherry pie, currant, lico-rice and sweet cedar flavors, wrapped into fine tannins. The blend is made from all five classic Bordeaux variet-ies, based on Cabernet Sauvignon. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

91 Trinchero 2009 Meritage (Napa Valley). Tight as nails right out of the bottle, this Cab-

ernet Sauvignon-based blend takes some time in the glass to breathe and open. After a while, it gives off an intense, pleasurable black-currant note. Feels rich, smooth and oaky in the mouth, with a hard jacket of tan-nins. Should glide through the next 5–6 years, but it can be consumed now. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $60

90 Blackbird Vineyards 2010 Arise (Napa Valley). This is one of the richer, finer wines

out of Napa meant for drinking now. With smooth tan-

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nins and a soft mouthfeel, it shows sweet-tasting cherry jam, cassis and toasty oak flavors. This Bordeaux-style blend is based on Merlot. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $50

90 Conn Creek 2009 Herrick Red (Napa Val-ley). Made from Bordeaux varieties and Syrah,

this is marked by powerful fruit flavors and some degree of sophistication. It floods the mouth with extracted blackberry, cherry, currant and Canadian bacon notes, with a dash of black pepper. Drink it over the next year or two. It should be relatively easy to find, with 10,000 cases produced. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

90 Conn Creek 2008 Anthology (Napa Val-ley). Deliciously rich and yummy, this is a soft-

ly tannic Bordeaux blend to drink now. It shows broad, deep blackberry, blueberry and chocolate flavors, with a jacket of sweet-tasting, caramelized oak. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

90 St. Francis 2010 Anthem Meritage (So-noma Valley). St. Francis’s Anthem is a sol-

id, rich, spicy and full-bodied, offering plenty of drink-me-soon complexity. Based on Cabernet Sauvignon, it has deep layers of blackberry, black currant, plum, an-ise, cocoa and smoky oak, which are wrapped into firm, smooth tannins. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $60

90 Tablas Creek 2010 Esprit de Beaucastel (Paso Robles). On its own, this Mourvèdre-

based Rhône-style blend is fairly straightforward. It has candied aromas and tastes, suggesting raspberry-fla-vored licorice and cola. However, it is dry and crisp in acidity, balanced overall. It will be a fine companion to a wide range of fare. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

90 Zaca Mesa 2009 Z Cuvée Estate Grown and Bottled (Santa Ynez Valley). The best

of Zaca Mesa’s G-S-Ms, this is based on Grenache and Mourvèdre, with a drop of Syrah. It is softly delicious, with cherry pie, mocha and spice flavors, plus a hint of sweet-tasting, toasty oak. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

89 Napa by N.A.P.A. NV Michael’s Red (Napa Valley). For full review see page 8.

abv: 13.9% Price: $25

89 Rocky Hill 2008 Richard Dinner Vine-yards (Sonoma Mountain). Few California

wines are this rich. It swamps the mouth with the es-sences of ripe black cherry and chocolate, with accents of red licorice, vanilla and buttered toast. The blend is an interesting one of Malbec, Merlot and Syrah, set off with fine, complex tannins. The action is all on the sur-face, lacking a bit of complexity, but it is delicious for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $39

89 Tablas Creek 2010 Côtes de Tablas (Paso Robles). Made from Grenache, Syrah,

Mourvèdre and Counoise, this is not too complicated,

and it’s easy to like for its luscious cherry, raspberry, spice and sandalwood flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

89 Wattle Creek 2010 The Triple Play (Alex-ander Valley). This is a blend of Syrah, Petite

Sirah and Viognier. The reds bring robust, full-bodied and dry flavors of raspberry and cherry jam, while the Viognier adds a burst of citrusy brightness. It feels spicy on the palate, a versatile table wine to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $25

89 Zaca Mesa 2008 Z Three Estate Grown and Bottled (Santa Ynez Valley). This is a

classic California interpretation of a southern Rhône-style blend. It’s a good wine, smooth and pleasant if not particularly complex, offering rich flavors of cherry, cherry liqueur, cola, mocha, bacon and white pepper. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $43

87 Estancia 2009 Reserve Meritage (Paso Robles). Made from Cabernet Sauvignon,

Merlot and Petit Verdot, this Bordeaux blend is dry, with smooth tannins. It has complex blackberry, cur-rant, raisin and smoky oak flavors, and is at its best now and for the next two years. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $30

87 Shai 2009 Adome Syrah-Cabernet Sau-vignon (Santa Barbara County). Here’s a

big, ripe, sweet-tasting wine for drinking now. It’s full bodied and tannic, with powerful blackberry, cherry, plum and chocolate flavors that finish in a swirl of bak-ing spices. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $34

86 Dark Hundred 2011 Red (California). Strong in black currant, raisin, blackberry pie

and oaky flavors, this full-bodied effort has thick tan-nins. It’s pleasant for drinking now with barbecue and roasts. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $30

86 Fiddletown Cellars 2010 Private Stock (Amador County). Made using 50% Barbera

and 50% Alicante Bouschet, this wine is fragrant and full-bodied, with notes of toasty oak and leather. The blend spent more than a year in new French oak, and it shows, both in terms of taste and structure. Should be an interesting wine over time. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $80

86 Tablas Creek 2011 Patelin de Tablas (Paso Robles ). This is rich and extracted

to the point of tasting candied, with black cherry, fig, roasted almond, brown sugar and cinnamon spice fla-vors—like a granola bar from a health food store. An easy-drinking blend of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Counoise. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $20

85 Bowtie 2010 Showtime (California). This is a useful red wine for everyday drinking. Full-

bodied and spicy, it offers plenty of berry, plum sauce and toasted wood flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $14

85 Elements by Artesa 2009 Red (Sonoma County). This red wine has brisk tannins that

frame blackberry and currant flavors, with a meat note and lots of peppery spice. It’s bone dry, and while it’s a little rustic, it’s easy to drink with lamb and beef dishes. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

85 Incognito 2010 Red (Lodi). A showcase of Lodi’s ability to grow an array of grapes, partic-

ularly red varieties, Incognito is an amalgam of Syrah, Carignane, Mourvèdre, Souzão, Tannat, Cinsault, Pe-tite Sirah and Merlot, with flavors ranging from cran-berry to chocolate. It’s smooth, with medium body and tannic structure. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

84 Deep Sea 2009 RED (Central Coast). Made from Syrah, Lagrein and Petite Sirah, this

is a rustic red. It has lots of rich raspberry, cherry and cola flavors, but feels rough in texture. Drink now with everyday fare. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $26

84 Mounts 2009 Assembly (Dry Creek Val-ley). This feels rough on the palate, with sand-

paper-like tannins and briary flavors of sour cherry can-dy and white pepper, plus vanilla and toast notes from the oak barrels. The texture is the main culprit. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

84 San Antonio 2008 Heritage (Paso Ro-bles). Made from Syrah, Petite Sirah, Mourvè-

dre and Grenache, this is a hot, heavy, full-bodied wine. It shows berry, cherry, raisin, currant and spice flavors that finish sweet and spicy. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

83 Immersion 2010 Red (California). This is a robust, rustic, everyday wine that’s dry and

fruity. If you’re throwing a big party, everybody will hap-pily drink it. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

83 San Antonio 2008 Cask 520 (Paso Ro-bles). This is dry and pretty tannic, and there’s

some heat from the alcohol, with signs of overripe-ness by way of raisin and prune notes. It’s made in an old style, and though it’s not ageable, it does have its charms. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

81 Acronym 2011 Red Wine Blend (Califor-nia). This is a small, pinched blend made from

Pinot Noir, Syrah and other varieties. It has flavors of herb, vegetable, sweet wood and sour cherry candy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

81 Sned 2009 Red (Sonoma County). This is soft, heavy and dull, with berry, herb and cocoa

flavors. It’s O.K. for easy drinking. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $18

80 Kumbaya 2011 Red (California). This is tannic and tastes artificially sweet, like cherry

cough medicine. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $9

66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013

OTHER RED WINES

93 Bokisch 2010 Tempranillo (Lodi). For full review see page 4.

abv: 14.5% Price: $21

93 La Follette 2011 Van der Kamp Vineyard Pinot Meunier (Sonoma Mountain). Fla-

vors of cherry compote, Dr. Pepper, vanilla, exotic spice and sandalwood are brightened by acidity, making this easy to mistake for a Pinot Noir. This is rich, vital and complex, so pair it with fare like roast duck or lamb. Greg La Follette has taken the lead in California in ex-ploring the Meunier possibilities, with brilliant results. Drink now–2017. —S.H. abv: 12.8% Price: $37

92 Trinchero 2009 Central Park West Pe-tit Verdot (St. Helena). This showcases the

sweet-tasting, ripe fruit and powerful oak that charac-terizes all of Trinchero’s 2009 reds. For a 100% Petit Verdot, it’s unusually complete, with intense flavors of blackberry and blueberry jam, mocha, violet, smoky va-nilla and toast. Drink now, after decanting, and over the next six years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

90 Bokisch 2010 Graciano (Lodi). Thick in dark, meaty fruit flavor, this 100% Graciano is

strong in savory elements, tasting of baked plum and tobacco, with a smoky, spicy undercurrent. The tannins have softened it into a rich, smooth wine that’s ready to drink now, aromatically recalling ripe figs. Pair with meat-and-cheese tapas or a brothy stew. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $21

90 Opaque 2008 Petit Verdot (Paso Robles). Opaque’s Petit Verdot impresses with its inky

color; intense, deep flavors of blackberry, blueberry, cassis, dark chocolate, spice and cedar; and also for its tannins, which are thick and astringent. This is quite a big wine, with a chewy, meaty complexity. It doesn’t seem to be an ager, but what a great wine for a char-broiled steak. From Riboli Famly, it’s their best Petit Verdot yet. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

WASHINGTON

CHARDONNAY

93 Novelty Hill 2010 Stillwater Creek Vine-yard Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). A

strong whiff of new French oak hits the nostrils when this is first opened, but with some airing it develops into an excellent, deeply concentrated Chardonnay. Ap-ple, pear, melon and papaya flavors are all in play, with enough natural acidity to keep the wine lively and fresh. The finish has ample toast, and rolls along through a smooth and satisfying conclusion. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

90 Buty 2011 Conner Lee Vineyard Char-donnay (Columbia Valley). The 2011 is an

elegant, fine-tuned version of this excellent wine, with a crisp, defined mix of citrus and mineral flavors. The

lingering, snappy finish begs for fresh shellfish or hali-but. —P.G. abv: 12.8% Price: $40

89 Kestrel 2011 Wild Yeast Chardonnay (Ya-kima Valley). Buttery and yeasty, this soft and

palate- pleasing Chardonnay shows plenty of nutmeg and other baking spices, along with pretty pear and ap-ple flavors. It has a touch of mineral and a highlight of flower. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

88 Boomtown 2011 Chardonnay (Washing-ton). This is straightforward, crisp and refresh-

ing, with no fancy frills. The fruit and the acid comple-ment each other, lifting the pleasant apple and melon flavors. Made entirely in stainless steel, it carries no oak influence. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $15

87 Three Rivers 2011 Chardonnay (Colum-bia Valley). This marks a change in style from

Three Rivers’s 2010, with noticeably less new oak influ-ence and a much smaller production. The green apple and pineapple flavors have some sharpness, and the bar-rel fermentation (just 15% new oak) adds a biscuit-like note of vanilla wafer. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

85 14 Hands 2011 Chardonnay (Washing-ton). Apple, pear and melon flavors taste like

they’re soaked in rose water. It’s an all-purpose, rather nondescript effort, with just the slightest hint of toast on the finish. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $12

85 Thorny Rose 2010 Chardonnay (Colum-bia Valley). Quite soft and open, this easy-

drinking Chardonnay tastes like vanilla cookie and lem-on custard. It’s easy to like, though it feels more like a snack than a wine to drink with dinner. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $11

83 Copper River Estate NV Diversion Chardonnay (Washington). A suitable quaf-

fer, this nonvintage bottling could be mistaken for al-most any white varietal. Thin flavors of apple and pear fall flat in the mouth. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

VIOGNIER

90 Force Majeure 2011 Collaboration Se-ries Viognier (Red Mountain). Made in the

rich, ripe, over-the-top style that winemaker Mark Mc-Neilly uses for his own Mark Ryan Viogniers, this is a superconcentrated wine with more than a passing re-semblance to limoncello. Along with that comes notes of Key lime, candied pineapple and a bit of alcoholic heat. Some will find it excellent, others a little too ex-travagant. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $35

90 Novelty Hill 2011 Stillwater Creek Vine-yard Viognier (Columbia Valley). The ad-

dition of 20% Roussanne to the blend seems to thicken the palate—which is not a bad thing at all. A scent of

honeysuckle piles on top of the flavors of honey, chamo-mile tea, lemon, orange and pink grapefruit, creating a luscious wine with impressive length. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

89 Wilridge 2011 Rosebud Vineyard Viogni-er (Yakima Valley). Viognier is a clear success

story for Wilridge. This is not a flashy wine, and it goes down easily. It’s deeply concentrated, with a rich core of peach, apricot and lemon drop flavors. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

RIESLING

88 Three Rivers 2011 Riesling (Columbia Valley). This off-dry Riesling has enough acid

to balance the 2.7% residual sugar. Aromas of flow-er and citrus blossom lead into lemon-driven fruit. There is just a bit of a granular, sugar-like feeling on the tongue. —P.G. abv: 12% Price: $15

86 14 Hands 2010 Riesling (Washington). Regrettably, this has no sweetness scale on the

back label, but the 11.5% alcohol suggests that it is off-dry, as it certainly tastes. It’s a heavy, honey-soaked style, perhaps due to grapes that were affected by botrytis. Apple juice and honey flavors are right in the heart of this wine, which would pair well with a simple dessert of fresh fruit. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 11.5% Price: $10

85 Copper River Estate NV Diversion Ries-ling (Washington). This is an ordinary Ries-

ling made in a dry style. Peach pit and citrus rind scents lead into similar flavors. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

SAUVIGNON BLANC

91 Barons V 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Colum-bia Valley). This is succulent yet delicate, with

dried hay and sweet grass flavors. Textural, vivid and racy, it has a Loire-like mix of fruit, flower and herb, with the possibility of improving still further over the next 4–5 years. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $15

91 Novelty Hill 2011 Stillwater Creek Vine-yard Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia Valley).

Crystal clear, loaded with enticing aromas and flavors of lemon zest, orange, tangerine and spice, this is a juicy, delicious and complete wine. Tangy and tart, it is almost impossible not to drain the glass quickly in order to refill it. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

88 Woodinville Wine Cellars 2011 Sauvi-gnon Blanc (Columbia Valley). Deep, ripe

fruit is the focus, brimming with lemon-lime flavor. There’s a touch of vanilla cookie also—thoroughly deli-cious, if a bit blocky. The finish has just a hint of alcohol warmth. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $18

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OTHER WHITE WINES

90 Buty 2011 60% Sémillon-19% Sauvi-gnon-21% Muscadelle (Columbia Valley).

Caleb Foster keeps adding more and more Muscadelle to this blend, always with a keen sense of balance and proportion. This remains tight and tart, with a tangy mix of lemon, grapefruit and pineapple flavors. It’s a precise, high-acid, highwire act from a cool vintage. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $25

88 Kestrel 2011 Pinot Gris (Yakima Valley). Crisp and bright, this fruit-driven, estate-grown

Pinot Gris is still showing some youthful yeastiness, but the fresh flavors of apple and pear shine through. A fine example of an emerging Washington style for this vari-ety. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $13

88 Novelty Hill 2011 Stillwater Creek Vine-yard Roussanne (Columbia Valley). There

is a strong underpinning of mineral in this wine, sup-porting crisply defined flavors of melon, pineapple and citrus peel. A medium-ripe, medium-weight, supremely well-crafted and balanced Roussanne. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

87 14 Hands 2011 Hot To Trot White Blend (Washington). This is a tasty blend of Char-

donnay, Pinot Gris and Sémillon, with a delightful spice note and a crisply defined tree-fruit flavor. Notes of pear, apple, cinnamon and some tartness add up to a wine that is pleasurable on its own, and versatile enough for a wide variety of cheeses, seafoods and poultry. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

92 Kestrel 2008 Old Vine Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Yakima Valley). Made using fruit that

was sourced from 30- and 40-year-old plantings, this has captivating flavors of black cherry and cassis, wrapped in brambly hints of herb. It shows plenty of intense power, with many more layers surfacing with breathing time. In fact, it’s just as good on its second day. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $60

89 Novelty Hill 2009 Stillwater Creek Vine-yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Val-

ley). Novelty Hill’s estate-grown Cabernet Sauvignon displays notes of brambly berry and plenty of barrel spice. The sweet-tasting spice accent rolls into streaks of licorice, earth and herb on the peppery finish. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $30

88 Novelty Hill 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). This Cabernet Sauvignon

has splashes of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. A pretty cherry flavor emerges immediately, with a pep-pery bite on the finish. It’s not supercomplex, but it is very well structured and just right for near-term drink-ing. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $25

88 Pondera 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). A high-toned whiff of

Band-Aid opens into a broadly flavored wine, with notes of black fruits, baking spices and dark threads of char-coal and roasted coffee. Best for drinking over the next 2–3 years. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $30

88 Three Rivers 2009 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse Heaven

Hills). Chalky tannins override the deep, black-cherry flavor. Cassis and licorice streaks are also present, and there is no quibble with the concentration. Perhaps more bottle age will smooth out the chalky finish. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $39

87 14 Hands 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sau-vignon (Horse Heaven Hills). This is a per-

fectly pleasant, smooth wine, with a forward cherry fla-vor, just hinting at a cassis level of ripeness. It’s defi-nitely designed to be fruity rather than oaky, perhaps in contrast to the Columbia Crest wines made in the same facility. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

87 Barons V 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Co-lumbia Valley). This is aged in 100% new

American oak, putting tight berry and cassis flavors be-hind plenty of dried herb notes and astringent tannins. Fine for drinking with a thick steak, but not so much for sipping on its own. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

87 Coach House Cellars 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Both wines

from this new producer show significant bottle varia-tion. This Cabernet remains stubbornly stiff and com-pact, despite hours of breathing time. Some tightly wound berry and pomegranate flavors poke through, with notes of thistle and herb. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $30

87 Three Rivers 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). This tight and compact

Cabernet has an earthy base, with leafy forest-floor flavors and very astringent tannins. That said, there is good fruit at the core, especially the note of spicy plum. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $21

87 Woodinville Wine Cellars 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley).

Though the vineyard sources—Stillwater and Conner Lee—are first-rate, this wine seems a bit disjointed at the moment. Sweet, juicy fruit opens up into a midpal-ate that seems to have a hole, and then the aggressive flavors of vanilla surface. The vanilla-tinged finish feels tacked on, though perhaps some further bottle age will help to smooth it. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $50

86 Maryhill 2010 Les Collines Vineyard Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). The

excellent Les Collines Vineyard usually delivers more depth of flavor than this, but a cool vintage may be the culprit. Very light berry flavors, a wash of cement-like

mineral and earthy tannins with an herbal edge sum up the flavor profile. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $32

86 Raised By Wolves 2008 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Columbia Valley). This is a Christmas

cake of a wine, loaded—perhaps overloaded—with bak-ing spice flavors. It’s forward and pastry-like, but there’s no stuffing nothing behind it; the wine just stops. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $34

86 Thorny Rose 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). For full review see page

10. Best Buy. abv: 14% Price: $11

85 Basel Cellars 2009 Pheasant Run Vine-yard Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla

Walla Valley). This shows plenty of grip as soon as it hits the tongue, with chewy tannins surrounding flavors of tobacco, earth and herb. The fruit is reminiscent of light plum, but it’s the earthy, stemmy flavors that domi-nate, lending bitterness to the finish. —P.G. abv: 15% Price: $32

85 Boomtown 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Washington). This Cabernet Sauvingon in-

cludes 6% each Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot. It’s herbal and austere, though not at all tricked up with va-nilla flavor. Short and to the point, it’s a good every day red for heartier meals. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $15

85 Maryhill 2010 Alder Ridge Vineyard Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Horse Heaven Hills).

Aromas of peppery spice and herb lead into a wine that quickly thins out. It simply flatlines, with a dry, herbal finish. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $36

85 Maryhill 2010 Clifton Hills Vineyard Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Wahluke Slope). Light

raspberry, sweet cracker and barrel flavors are all pres-ent. It’s a Cabernet with more charm than muscle. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $36

85 Maryhill 2010 Proprietor’s Reserve Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). This

simple Cabernet Sauvignon is lightly fruity and forward, with berry flavors that seem to fade on the midpalate. It resolves in a wash of drying, herbal tannins. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

84 14 Hands 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Whiffs of soft leather and

fresh herb set up this dry Cabernet. The scents and fla-vors of earth and stem are accompanied by a finishing accent of vanilla. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

84 Robert Ramsay 2009 Upland Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon (Snipes Mountain).

This is underwhelming, given its old-vine status and ex-cellent vineyard source. The nose has a sweaty quality, which carries over onto the palate. Flavors suggest that the fruit was well ripened and in good shape, but some-

68 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013

thing may have gone a bit awry in the barrel room. Two bottles tasted with the same results. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $30

83 Maryhill 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Co-lumbia Valley). Excessive vanilla flavors from

some sort of oak treatment cannot mask the overtly herbal and earthy flavors of this almost fruitless wine. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $17

82 Copper River Estate NV Diversion Caber-net Sauvignon (Washington). This is a non-

vintage wine, with green, stemmy flavors that finish on the bitter side. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

CABERNET FRANC

91 Kestrel 2008 Cabernet Franc (Yakima Valley). Pure Cabernet Franc from the out-

standing Olsen Vineyards, this avoids the stemminess that can plague this variety at times. It has a pure black-cherry flavor that is round and full bodied, with textural tannins that sail onto the delicious finish. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $40

84 Maryhill 2010 Proprietor’s Reserve Cab-ernet Franc (Columbia Valley). There is

very little to distinguish any of the 2010 Maryhill Cab-ernets from each other. This shows a dash of cassis, with a big streak of vanilla and just a hint of orange peel. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

83 Maryhill 2010 Cabernet Franc (Columbia Valley). The red fruit flavors are tannic, stem-

my and barely ripe, making this a rather charmless Cab-ernet Franc. A thick streak of vanilla is the only other lasting impression. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $17

MERLOT

89 14 Hands 2009 Reserve Merlot (Horse Heaven Hills). Tannic and earthier than its

companion Cabernet, this has almost tongue-scraping dryness. The plum and cherry flavors are tightly wound and tart, and the early impression is that drying tannins take over the finish. With a lot of breathing, it opens up, and the fruit shines through. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

89 Coach House Cellars 2010 Merlot (Co-lumbia Valley). Both wines from this new

producer show significant bottle variation. In both in-stances, the scores reflect the better bottle of the two 2010s tasted. The Merlot offers a firm cassis flavor, con-centrated and balanced, with a streak of black olive, and a pastis-like licorice note. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $30

89 Novelty Hill 2009 Merlot (Columbia Val-ley). The blend includes 7% Cabernet Sau-

vignon and 4% Cabernet Franc. It’s tight, herbal and earthy, with a scent of forest floor. As it opens, it adds layers of wild berry, bramble, graphite and leaf, all in

good balance. This has lovely proportion and follow through, as in all of the Novelty Hill reds. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $22

87 Novelty Hill 2009 Stillwater Creek Vine-yard Merlot (Columbia Valley). The blend

includes 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Malbec. A scent of egg and an herbal edge diminish the fruit some-what. A peppery berry note and stiff tannins come with a green tea edge, suggesting that this is just on the edge of ripeness. Perfectly fine for a steak dinner. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $22

87 Three Rivers 2010 Merlot (Columbia Val-ley). Cranberry, Bing cherry and red plum fla-

vors dominate the fruit profile, enlivened by a bright spice note. The tannins turn quite chalky and drying, which lessens the pleasure of the finish. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $19

86 Boomtown 2010 Merlot (Washington). This is firm and reasonably substantial, with

strong streaks of vanilla and licorice. The oak treatment masks the rather light red-fruit flavor, and may seem overdone to some tasters. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $15

86 Maryhill 2010 Les Collines Vineyard Mer-lot (Walla Walla Valley). At first there is a

whiff of something slightly sweaty, but it blows off to re-veal a compact, unyielding wine, with wild berry flavors and a strongly earthy, tannic finish. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $32

86 Maryhill 2010 Proprietor’s Reserve Mer-lot (Columbia Valley). This is a medium-bod-

ied Merlot, with dark fruit flavors that are cloaked in chewy, chalky, earthy and herbal tannins. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

85 14 Hands 2010 Merlot (Columbia Val-ley). This no-frills Merlot follows the general

14 Hands style of laying off the oak influence. It’s a sol-id wine, though not particularly fruity, and it puts the emphasis on balanced notes of earth, herb and licorice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

85 Basel Cellars 2009 Pheasant Run Vine-yard Estate Merlot (Walla Walla Valley).

This lists its alcohol at a hefty 15.5%, but the soft, light red-fruit flavor doesn’t reflect the abv. It opens with dusty, toasty barrel scents, then quickly fades. —P.G. abv: 15.5% Price: $28

84 Maryhill 2010 Merlot (Columbia Valley). Herbal and earthy, this dry and tannic wine

shows almost no hint of ripe fruit. It might be best with a burger or skirt steak to absorb the tannins. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $17

82 Copper River Estate NV Diversion Merlot (Washington). This is virtually indistinguish-

able from its companion Cabernet Sauvignon, also a nonvintage, unripe, generic red. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

MOURVÈDRE

92 Kestrel 2008 Winemaker Select Mourvè-dre (Yakima Valley). Winemaker Flint Nel-

son co-ferments this unusual Mourvèdre with Syrah and Grenache , yielding a wine with unusually smooth integration of flavors. Multifaceted and supple, this has layers of ripe fruit, spice, lead pencil, cedar and clean earth flavors, which continue smoothly onto the medi-um-long finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: NA Price: $40

88 Dowsett Family 2010 Heart of the Hill Vineyard Mourvèdre (Red Mountain).

Pure Mourvèdre remains a rare bird of a wine, even in grape-happy Washington State. This is a good example, with flavors that carry the leafy, herbal character often found in Carmenère and the bright, mineral-laced fruit of southern French wines. It’s not a big wine, and the vines from which the grapes are sourced are still young, but it’s well made and will hold your interest. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $45

88 Maryhill 2010 Sugarloaf Vineyards Mourvèdre (Rattlesnake Hills). This is per-

haps the most interesting of a vast lineup of red wines at Maryhill. A wild huckleberry note is underscored with a pleasant minerality. The vanilla streak that seems to ac-company all these Maryhill wines is moderated enough to be a minor flavor. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $30

87 Robert Ramsay 2010 McKinley Springs Vineyard Mourvèdre (Horse Heaven

Hills). This pure Mourvèdre begins well, offering a full palate of varietal flavors that are built upon a mix of cit-rus and ripe tree fruits, along with accents of leaf and forest. It turns soft and seems a bit overripe, running into a rather short finish. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $35

SYRAH

91 Force Majeure 2009 Collaboration Series III Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Syrah (Red

Mountain). This Syrah is a blend of four different clones, and it’s aging regimen is comprised of one-third new oak and two-thirds neutral oak. Quite dark in color and temperament, its roasted, smoky flavors are specific and highly individual. If you like the flavor of slightly burnt cake that’s scraped off the bottom of a baking pan, you’ll enjoy this. Black fruit, roasted earth and more, this is a big, big wine. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $55

91 Novelty Hill 2009 Syrah (Columbia Val-ley). This Columbia Valley Syrah boasts strong

varietal aromatics. It seems to have a spine of iron and a streak of garrigue- like dried herb, with lovely flavors of pomegranate and wild berry. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $22

90 Hawkins Cellars 2010 Syrah (Colum-bia Valley). The fruit is sourced from Kiona

Vineyards on Red Mountain, some of the best Syrah in Washington. Sappy and concentrated, with a juicy and

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pure raspberry flavor, this shows good length and a lick of mineral on the finish. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $26

90 Novelty Hill 2009 Stillwater Creek Vine-yard Syrah (Columbia Valley). This tight,

young Syrah has a succinct core of blueberry and rasp-berry flavors, which are wrapped in a mix of herb, earth and green tea. The tannins are just slightly bitter, but all in balance, and that bitterness is not at all unpleas-ant. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $28

89 Kestrel 2008 Co-ferment Estate Syrah (Yakima Valley). The co-ferment includes 5%

Viognier, and offers generous fruit and appealing scents of spices and woodsy incense. The mulled fruit flavor rolls onto the herbal finish with some green-tea-like tan-nins. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $40

87 Boomtown 2010 Syrah (Washington). The Boomtown Syrah offers plenty of clear, va-

rietally correct fruit flavor. Citrus highlights underscore deep boysenberry fruit. The wine is forward and just right for drinking while young. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $15

87 Maryhill 2010 Les Collines Vineyard Syr-ah (Columbia Valley). The best of a trio of

Maryhill designates that are made from Les Collines Vineyard fruit, this reflects genuine Syrah-varietal specificity. Pure flavors of blue and purple fruit carry a strong streak of vanilla, but the density of flavor stands out. —P.G. abv: 15.5% Price: $36

85 Maryhill 2010 Proprietor’s Reserve Syrah (Columbia Valley). There is an unusual sen-

sation of spritz in the mouth, though no hint of any CO2 can be seen in the glass. This is bone dry, stemmy and earthy, with the most prominent flavor. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

84 Basel Cellars 2009 Pheasant Run Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). This has some tart, pep-

pery berry flavors that are buried in notes of stem, bark and green tannins. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $28

84 Des Voigne Cellars 2008 Montreux Syrah (Columbia Valley). A somewhat volatile nose

introduces a wine that has a powerfully oaky flavor, per-haps from the 30 months it spent in 50% new Ameri-can barrels. It seems a bit overdone, and the fruit heads into dry, pruny flavors. It is seemingly already past its prime. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

84 Three Rivers 2010 River’s Red Syrah (Columbia Valley). Almost entirely Syrah,

this is a completely different wine from the previous vintage of River’s Red. Light watermelon and cranberry flavors seem dilute and quickly fade. There’s not much going on here. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $14

83 Maryhill 2010 Syrah (Columbia Valley). Thin to the verge of being empty of fruit and fla-

vor, this shows no varietal character whatsoever. Green, leafy, herbal and earthy flavors abound. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $17

ZINFANDEL

92 Angel Vine 2010 Stonetree Vineyard Zinfandel (Columbia Valley). It’s a shame

that just 100 cases of this wine were made, as this bright, fresh, exciting Zinfandel belongs with the best of California, not just Washington. The fresh-picked strawberry and raspberry flavors are concentrated and vibrating with juicy acidity. They lead into a sappy, lengthy midpalate, with an underpinning of rock. Edi-tors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 15.2% Price: $20

87 Maryhill 2010 Proprietor’s Reserve Zin-fandel (Columbia Valley). Sweet and jam-

my fruit flavors suggest canned cherry and plum. That sweetness is offset by the drying, earthy tannins and fla-vor of dried herb. —P.G. abv: 15.8% Price: $30

85 Maryhill 2010 Zinfandel (Columbia Val-ley). According to its bottle, this has 15.5%

alcohol, and yet the raspberry flavor lacks weight and depth. Instead, flavors of stem and earth seem to domi-nate. —P.G. abv: 15.5% Price: $17

84 Maryhill 2010 Northridge Vineyard Primi-tivo (Wahluke Slope). Tart to the point of be-

ing flat-out sour, this might appeal to lovers of rhubarb pie. Rhubarb and sour plum flavors are matched with sharp acidity. The fruit seems underripe. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

SANGIOVESE

89 Trio Vintners 2009 Sangiovese (Walla Walla Valley). This fruit-powered Sangiovese

was aged in neutral barrels, and the cranberry and rasp-berry flavors come through clean and fresh. It’s still a bit tight, crisp and compact. Give it some breathing time if you plan to drink it soon. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $20

88 Trio Vintners 2010 Flash Point Reserve Sangiovese (Yakima Valley). The Flash

Point is a new name for the familiar Trio Reserve, which uses grapes that are sourced entirely from the Boushey Vineyard. Here the toasty oak barrel flavors dominate, while the fruit tends toward a light strawberry flavor, with more mocha than grape flavor. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $28

85 Maryhill 2010 Sangiovese (Columbia Val-ley). Chalky and dry, this tastes of barely ripe

cherry, with plenty of leafy flavors. The tannins take over quickly in a brief, drying finish. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $17

85 Maryhill 2010 Proprietor’s Reserve San-giovese (Columbia Valley). Not really dis-

tinguishable from the winery’s regular bottling of San-giovese, this too has just a hint of sour cherry, with leafy, earthy, drying tannins. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

RED BLENDS

94 Buty 2009 Phinny Hill Vineyard Colum-bia Rediviva Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah

(Columbia Valley). Supple and sturdy, this beautifully structured blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Syrah, which uses fruit sourced from the estate vine-yard, utilizes the best assets of both grapes. The Cab-ernet gives it both firmness and depth, while the Syrah pipes in vivid, juicy, berry flavors. Still young and pri-mary, the best is clearly yet to come. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: NA Price: $50

94 Force Majeure 2009 Collaboration Series I Ciel du Cheval Vineyard (Red Moun-

tain). Still the best wine in the lineup, this Bordeaux-style blend, made by Cadence’s Ben Smith, is two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon, which is sourced from some of the oldest vines on Red Mountain, planted in 1975 and 1982. Concentrated, tannic and dense, it matches the superb fruit with captivating notes of seed bread and cayenne pepper. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $55

93 Force Majeure 2009 Collaboration Series VI Ciel du Cheval Vineyard (Red Moun-

tain). This is the first vintage for this wine, made by Syncline’s James Mantone. A delectable blend of 48% Mourvèdre, 28% Grenache and 24% Syrah, aged in 100% neutral oak barrels, this is a sappy, concentrated, mouth-pleasing blast of plum, cherry and spice. As it rolls across the palate, the distinct impression is of choc-olate-covered cherries. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $50

92 Force Majeure 2009 Collaboration Series II Ciel du Cheval Vineyard (Red Moun-

tain). This is 98% Syrah, unlike past vintages where it was modeled after a Côtes du Rhône-style blend. It opens with enticing whiffs of soft leather and toasted nut, before bringing in a smooth mix of black and pur-ple fruits, along with chocolate and anise highlights. It’s supple and proportionate, with polished, coffee-fla-vored tannins. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $55

91 Kestrel 2008 Raptor Red (Yakima Valley). Great fruit is the story here—a lush mix of cran-

berry, cherry, blueberry and Bourbon-soaked fig. Com-plex and delicious, this is drinking very well. It may or may not continue to improve, but why wait? —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $60

90 Kestrel 2009 Tribute Red (Yakima Valley). This blend of Merlot and Mourvèdre melds

fruit from the Kestrel View and Olsen Vineyards. Burst-ing with mixed plum and cherry flavors, it’s accented by a spice note and a streak of nougat. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013

89 Angel Vine 2010 The Hellion (Columbia Valley). The Hellion is half Primitivo, one-

third Petite Sirah and the rest Zinfandel. A lively mix of berry, citrus and tree fruit flavors, it’s plush, forward and full across the palate. It starts out beautifully, then falls a little flat coming into the home stretch. The finish shows some heat and a hint of milk chocolate. —P.G. abv: 15.2% Price: $22

89 Woodinville Wine Cellars 2010 Little Bear Creek Red Wine (Columbia Valley). An-

other fine vintage for this value-priced, Bordeaux-style blend. It’s loaded with raspberry and black cherry fla-vors, then brings in lighter notes of dried herb, ground coffee and dark chocolate. For its price, it delivers rather complex and well-integrated flavors. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

88 14 Hands 2009 Reserve Red Blend (Horse Heaven Hills). This fills out the re-

serve line at 14 Hands, done much in the same style as the Reserve Merlot and the Reserve Cabernet Sau-vignon. Here the fruit flavors lean toward berry rather than cassis or plum, and a dash of milk chocolate adds a bit of interest to the finish. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

88 Flying Trout 2009-2010 Deep River Red (Columbia Valley). A two-vintage blend of

Cabernet Franc and Malbec, the Deep River Red has a roasted character that’s dark and flavorful, with notes of cassis, coffee and cacao. It’s full bodied and dense, with notes of graphite and pepper. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $29

88 Woodinville Wine Cellars 2009 Indomita-ble (Columbia Valley). A blend of 50% Cab-

ernet Sauvignon , 30% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, this is a forward, fruity, almost sweet-tasting wine, con-siderably fruitier and less compelling than the previous vintage. Broad and accessible, with a pretty milk-choco-late finish, it’s an easy sipper to enjoy while it’s still in the bloom of youth. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $45

87 Convergence Zone Cellars 2010 Mistral Red (Red Mountain). A blend of two-thirds

Grenache, the rest a mix of Mourvèdre and Syrah, this demonstrates the spicy cherry appeal of the main grape. Apple and plum flavors come into play as well, keeping the wine fruity, forward, spicy and flavorful. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $28

87 Des Voigne Cellars 2010 The Groove Red (Columbia Valley). Designed as a forward,

easy-drinking blend, this youthful and spicy wine offers plenty of tart, brambly fruit and a peppery herb note in the background. Syrah, Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot are all in the mix, and the once-used French and American oak barrels add some further fla-vor interest. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $20

87 Des Voigne Cellars 2009 Untitled (Co-lumbia Valley). This is a dark, tarry wine, with

a black cherry and cassis core that’s accented by licorice

and asphalt highlights. It’s big but well built, a powerful red blend of Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Petit Verdot. It seems to be trending into a somewhat pruny finish, and not likely to improve with further bottle age, so drink up. —P.G. abv: 15% Price: $35

87 Dowsett Family 2009 Devotion (Colum-bia Valley). The 2009 Devotion credits the

exact same blend of grapes and vineyards as the 2008—41% Syrah (Morrison Lane Vineyard), 30% Mourvèdre (Heart of the Hill Vineyard), and 29% Grenache (Des-tiny Ridge Vineyard). Yet it does not quite measure up to that superior vintage. It may be a passing stage, but the engaging, tart, wild-berry flavors on entry quickly drop off on the midpalate, finishing somewhat diffuse. Two bottles tasted with similar results. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $30

87 Maryhill 2010 Hattrup Farms Marvell (Rattlesnake Hills). This Grenache, Syr-

ah, Mourvèdre blend has a tart and tangy appeal. The mixed plum and berry fruit flavors are matched with strongly herbal streaks. Tannins are earthy and astrin-gent. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $32

87 Thorny Rose 2009 Red Blend (Columbia Valley). For full review see page 10. Best Buy.

abv: 14% Price: $11

87 Trio Vintners 2010 Riot Red Table Wine (Columbia Valley). This new release of Riot

changes the grapes around, with Sangiovese now com-prising half of the wine and Mourvèdre and Grenache filling in the rest of the mix. It’s a fun blend, fruity and broad, with a tart raspberry kick and a plummy, spicy finish. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $18

86 Barons V 2009 Petit Barone (Columbia Valley). This is 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and

25% Merlot. The fruit is submerged among chalky tan-nins, and despite its Bordeaux-like structure, the light, grapey flavors are best enjoyed while young. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $30

86 Flying Trout 2010 Cutthroat Red (Colum-bia Valley). This mix of 62% Pepper Bridge

Vineyard Syrah and 38% Klipsun Vineyard Malbec has not entirely come together. The grapey fruit flavors and slightly stemmy tannins may ultimately complement each other, but that will require more bottle age. For the moment, give it a good decanting, or wait a couple more years before opening. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $35

86 Maryhill 2010 Elephant Mountain Vine-yards Indira (Rattlesnake Hills). A Cin-

sault-Counoise blend, this is grapey, tasting of just-ripe berries. The flavors turn a little slender on the midpal-ate, but it’s a pleasant quaffer with balanced tannins. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $36

86 Maryhill 2010 Proprietor’s Reserve Ser-endipity Red Wine (Columbia Valley).

This is a Bordeaux-style blend, with a grainy mouth-

feel that carries impressions of sugary fruit and rough, earthy tannins. At this point, the wine needs more time in bottle to pull its flavors together. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

86 Pondera 2009 Prima Donna Red (Colum-bia Valley). A Bordeaux-style blend domi-

nated by Merlot, this is loaded with flavors of vanilla, licorice and baking spice. The four-grape blend seems heavily influenced by ginger snaps, rather than classi-fied growths. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $42

86 Robert Ramsay 2010 Par la Mer Red (Columbia Valley). Sharp and spicy, this

blend of Mourvèdre, Grenache and Cinsault leaves a slightly yeasty finish. The three grapes seem a bit at odds, not entirely comfortable in the same bottle. A sec-ond bottle was tasted, and the fruit flavors—especially from the Grenache—proved to be more focused and pure. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $38

85 14 Hands 2010 Hot To Trot Red Blend (Columbia Valley). A stunning 580,000 cases

were made of this blend of Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet and Mourvèdre. It’s fruity and fresh, but lacks muscle, with light, California-style flavors of strawberry and raspber-ry, finishing with an herbal edge. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

85 Basel Cellars 2009 Estate Pheasant Run Vineyard Merriment Red Wine (Walla

Walla Valley). Merriment is a Bordeaux-style blend with a simple mix of black cherry and chocolate flavors. It has a somewhat flat mouthfeel, with peppery, earthy undertones and a bitterness to the finish. —P.G. abv: 15.1% Price: $40

85 Convergence Zone Cellars 2010 Virga Red (Red Mountain). A blend of roughly

equal parts Mourvèdre and Syrah, this does not offer much in the way of fruit; there’s an emptiness to the midpalate. It’s a difficult wine to get a handle on, even after breathing time. Perhaps more bottle age will open it up. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $28

85 Des Voigne Cellars 2007 Solea Red (Co-lumbia Valley). Dried out and tannic, this

five-grape Bordeaux-style blend tastes more of vanil-la and coffee than of fruit, and the finish turns bitter. Drink up. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $30

85 Maryhill 2010 Proprietor’s Reserve Tavo-la Rosso Sangiovese Cabernet (Colum-

bia Valley). A blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sau-vignon, the Tavola Rosso is a wine that seems to be in search of a distinct identity. Tannic, drying and vanil-la soaked, it has a red fruit flavor that vanishes all too quickly. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

85 Wilridge 2010 Estate Mélange Noir (Ya-kima Valley). This is Bordeaux-style blend is

quite leathery, both on the nose and palate, with red fruit flavors that quickly vanish into a horsey, bitter fin-

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ish. Your individual sensitivity to such flavors will deter-mine how much you enjoy this wine. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

83 Basel Cellars 2009 Claret (Walla Walla Valley). Merriment is a Bordeaux-style blend

with a simple mix of black cherry and chocolate flavors. It has a flat mouthfeel, with peppery, earthy undertones and some bitterness on the finish. —P.G. abv: 15.2% Price: $20

82 Basel Cellars 2009 Inspired Red Mer-lot-Cabernet Franc (Columbia Valley). A

blend of 50% Merlot and 50% Cabernet Franc, this is volatile, short, bitter and tannic. —P.G. abv: 15% Price: $40

82 Copper River Estate NV Diversion Majes-tic Red (Washington). This unidentified red

blend looks a bit tired and tastes rather flat. It’s an ev-eryday wine, a decent pairing for pizza. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

OTHER RED WINES

92 Flying Trout 2010 Gamache Vineyard Malbec (Columbia Valley). The best wine

to date from Ashley Trout, this single-vineyard Malbec seduces with its thick, dense, decadently lush flavors of black cherry and cassis. Licorice, tar, coffee and cacao notes come into play on the deep and lingering finish. If anything, the wine is even better on the second day, as the fruit flavors mature into a plummy Christmas-cake delight. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $37

90 Angel Vine 2010 Stonetree Vineyard Pe-tite Sirah (Columbia Valley). Winemaker

Ed Fus does a superb job with grapes from the Stone-tree Vineyard, as this tasty young Petite Sirah demon-strates. Violet, chalk, blueberry and citrus notes com-bine on the palate, continuing onto the finish that sets flower and tannin in stark opposition. This is what pure Petite Sirah from an excellent site tastes like, with no intrusive new oak flavors. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $22

89 Novelty Hill 2009 Stillwater Creek Vine-yard Malbec (Columbia Valley). A whiff of

clover jumps from the glass, then this dark, juicy wine rips into a dense cassis flavor. Ripe and sappy, it has just the right touch of new oak layered onto the finish. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $28

88 Novelty Hill 2009 Stillwater Creek Vine-yard Grenache (Columbia Valley). One’s

first impression is of a minty wine, with a cranberry fla-vor and plenty of acidity. Spicy and tart, it seems a little stiff. But retasted a full day later, the wine had retained its structure, adding some depth to the fruit and pretty baking spice to the finish. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $28

87 Maryhill 2010 Barbera (Columbia Valley). This is made in a dark, rich style, with the lush

vanilla and tobacco flavors that can be found throughout

this winery’s red wine lineup. Here, the plummy fruit has the density to match the oak treatment. —P.G. abv: 15.1% Price: $17

87 Wilridge 2010 Estate Zweigelt (Yakima Valley). Once past the whiff of tack-room

leather, this young wine opens to reveal broad, sappy plummy fruit. It’s not only unique but a whole lot of fun. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

86 Maryhill 2010 Proprietor’s Reserve Gre-nache (Columbia Valley). This Proprietor’s

Reserve Grenache is one of a handful of Maryhill’s 2010 reds that improves upon the previous vintage. Sappy and relatively substantial, this has a core of Bing cherry, along with chewy tannins and an earthy finish. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

85 Three Rivers 2009 Petit Verdot (Colum-bia Valley). This opens with bright, spicy,

front-loaded fruit flavors, but those notes quickly fade, allowing the green tannins and chalky astringency to dominate. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $29

72 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013

95 The Yamazaki Single Malt Whisky Aged 18 Years (Japan; Campari America, San

Francisco, CA). This is an excellent special-occasion single malt from Suntory. Look for a bold, luscious but-terscotch, note, enlivened by touches of stone fruit, ly-chee, and a faint hint of smoke. The buttery-soft texture and amber color with bright orange-gold highlights add to the luxe experience. abv: 43% Price: $120

94 Yoichi 15 Year Old (Japan; Anchor Dis-tilling, San Francisco, CA). This elegant

single malt from Nikka bears a dark, vibrant gold color, with smoke and caramel aromas. On the palate, look for well-balanced notes of citrus peel, cedar and oak, and a gentle waft of smoke. An astringent sensation on the finish sets the mouth watering, leading to a full-bodied, almost oily texture. Recommended for sipping neat. abv: 45% Price: $130

93 Taketsuru Pure Malt 12 Year Old (Japan; Anchor Distilling, San Francisco, CA).

Bright gold in color and fresh, this single malt from Nik-ka offers a pitch-perfect balance of fruit, oak and smoke. On the palate, this translates to fresh apple and subtle vanilla flavors that taper smoothly. abv: 40% Price: $70

90 The Hakashu Japanese Whisky Aged 12 Years (Japan; Campari America, San

Francisco, CA). Fans of smoky Islay Scotches will enjoy this smoky single malt that’ s made at Suntory’s Hakashu Distillery, which is “surrounded by forest at the foot of the Southern Japan Alps.” Despite the deli-cate aromas of tropical fruit and light peat, the smoke note is considerably amplified on the palate, especial-ly on the resonant finish, where it pushes those dainty fruit tones completely off the map. Best Buy. abv: 43% Price: $45

OTHER WHISKIES

94 Sheep Dip Malt Whisky (Scotland; Fred-erick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY).

For full review see page 11. Best Buy.abv: 40% Price: $45

91 Marshal 12-Year-Old Scotch Whisky (Scotland; Arcadia Imports, Plainville,

CT). This mellow blended Scotch melds a brisk smoke-note with a crème brûlée accent. Adding a splash of wa-ter brings a touch of caramel to the surface, while a peat note lingers on the smooth finish. Consider pairing this with a hearty appetizer or a meaty main course, such as beef or game. Best Buy. abv: 40% Price: $30

90 Ardbeg Day (Scotland; Moet Hennessy, New York, NY). This limited-edition whisky—

just over 12,000 bottles were produced—has more sub-

tlety than the standard smoky brute Ardbeg. Honeyed and floral aromas dominate the nose, with just a whiff of peat following. On the palate, a note of smoke and alcohol heat become evident. Yet—especially with wa-ter added—the finish shows graceful notes of espresso, menthol and buttery vanilla. This was made and named for the Ardbeg Day event. abv: 58% Price: $88

90 Black Velvet Toasted Caramel (Canada; Constellation Brands, Canandaigua, NY).

Bridging territory between whisky and liqueur, this car-amel-flavored Canadian whisky was launched in the U.S. in September 2012. Viscous and sweet, it mixes flavors of milky caramel, toasted oak and a sprinkle of cinnamon on the finish. Expect this bottling to inspire warming fireside cocktails—perhaps mixed with apple cider or ginger ale—or sweet dessert drinks.abv: 35% Price: $12

88 Troy & Sons Oak Reserve Whiskey (USA; Asheville Distilling Company, Asheville,

NC). Made from Crooked Creek Corn, an non-GMO heirloom corn variety, this barrel-aged moonshine has a light gold color and a mild vanilla flavor, mixed with notes of oak and faint tropical fruit. Recommended for mixing, this would do well lightened with ginger ale and lime.abv: 40% Price: $35

UNFLAVORED VODKA

92 Real Russian (USA: Premiere Distillery, Gurnee, IL). For full review see page 11. Best

Buy.abv: 40% Price: $20

91 Karlsson’ s Gold Vodka Batch 2009 (Swe-den; MHW, Manhasset, NY). This limited-

edition vintage bottling is made solely from the 2009 harvest of the solist potato crop from the Cape Bjäre region of southern Sweden. It’s distinctly sweet and earthy, with a hearty chewiness about it—definitely different from Karlsson’ s more neutral standard bot-tling. Available as of November 2012, with fewer than 2,000 bottles made. abv: 40% Price: $80

91 Broken Shed Premium Vodka (New Zea-land; Broken Shed Imports, Manhasset,

NY). This New Zealand vodka—distilled from whey—is smooth, clean, sweet and surprisingly full bodied for a vodka, featuring light vanilla and anise notes. abv: 40% Price: $35

90 Fuzzy’ s Ultra Premium Vodka (USA; Fuzzy’ s Spirits, Indianapolis, IN). Need a

gift for a golf lover? This corn-based vodka named for golf pro Fuzzy Zoeller may fit the bill. It has a neutral, faintly fruity aroma, with a bit of lemongrass on the crisp finish. Bottled by Bendistillery in Bend, Oregon. abv: 40% Price: $24

89 Cooranbong Australian Vodka (Australia; MHW, Manhasset, NY). Presented in a tall

wine-bottle-like vessel, this clear, bright vodka made

Within certain cicles of spirits cognoscen-ti, Japanese whiskies are often consid-ered the fine-wine-drinker’s take on

whiskey. Overall, they tend to be delicate, com-plex and silky, with more attention paid to the spirit’s body and texture than in other countries.

Very possibly, this may be the year that Americans take notice of Japanese whisky. Un-til recently, we didn’t have much of a choice in the category. But in 2010, Suntory’s Hibiki ar-rived; in 2011, the Hakushu 12-year-old. And in late 2012, Nikka challenged Suntory’s domi-nance on American shelves, bringing the Sin-gle Malt Yoichi 15-year-old and Taketsuru Pure Malt 12-year-old to our shores. (The Hibiki and Yamazaki 12-year-old expressions were re-viewed in the February 2011 issue.)

To understand why Japanese whisky is made in the Scottish tradition (and why it’s properly spelled as “whisky” rather than “whiskey,”) I turned to Drinking Japan: A Guide to Japan’s Best Drinks and Drinking Establisments (Tut-tle Publishing, 2011) by Tokyo-based author Chris Bunting. Whisky was first introduced to Japan by the Americans, Bunting wrote, when

Commodore Matthew Perry brought a barrel of American whiskey in 1854 as a gift for the emperor and all of his subjects.

“Once the Americans had gone home, the smitten Japanese were left with no idea how to make the golden spirit,” Bunting recounted. For decades, domestically produced imitations were the only choices available, including the notoriously awful Queen George brand.

It took until the 1920s for Masataka Taket-suru, Suntory’s first master distiller and Nikka’s founder, to study and perfect his art in Scot-land. Returning home, he chose distillery sites in Japan that resembled the terrain and climate of Scotland. By the 1970s, whisky was every-where in Japan. It’s no coincidence that one of Nikka’s bottlings bears Taketsuru’s name—certainly, the local industry owes an enormous debt to the man.

Since only a handful of Japanese whiskies are available in the U.S., we’ve rounded this out with additional reviews from the interna-tional whisk(e)y category, plus some vodkas. As the Japanese say, Kanpai! —KaRa NewmaN

SPIRITS

BIG IN JAPAN: JAPANESE WHISKY

from Barossa Valley grapes mixes mild but distinctly sweet notes of marshmallow and vanilla. abv: 40% Price: $28

88 Legend of Kremlin Russian Vodka De Luxe (Russia; Medek Wine & Spirits,

New York, NY). Clear and star bright in appearance, this is a neutral, faintly citrusy vodka, which claims to have production roots dating back to a 15th century monk. Brisk alcohol. abv: 40% Price: $42

87 Lucky Dog Vodka (USA; Lucky Dog Vod-ka, Siaconset, MA). Dog-lovers especial-

ly will love the playful label design, which features a leaping red dog and paw prints. This is “made from Idaho winter wheat and clear Rocky Mountain water,” and it bears a marshmallow sweetness on the palate. abv: 40% Price: $22

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74 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2013

95 Alaskan Brewing Co. 2012 Smoked Por-ter (American Porter; Alaskan Brewing

Co., AK). This stunning vintage-dated porter is a win-ner every year, but the 2012 release seems to have it all. Visually stunning, it has a deep walnut-brown color and a frothy, coffee-colored head, showing flecks of red in the light. The smoky aromas immediately waft from the glass, with supporting notes of roasted malt, milk chocolate and campfire. The mouthfeel is smooth and approachable right through to the long finish, with a ton of smoky flavors dominating the palate along with hints of s’mores, scorched earth and sweet cured bacon. abv: 6.5% Price: $9/22 oz

95 Anchor Porter (American Porter; Anchor Brewing Company, CA). This classic por-

ter pours almost black, with a thick, tan-colored head. The bouquet is a complex mélange of aromas, including notes of dried dark fruit (think prunes, figs and raisins), roasted malt, light coffee, cocoa powder and a touch of toasted barley. It’s flavorful and creamy, but then the palate livens up with a citrus oil burst on the finish, fol-lowed by a soft hint of dry, bitter chocolate. Overall, it’s remarkably balanced and easy to drink, with an endless finish.abv: 5.6% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack

95 Smuttynose Big Beer Series Baltic Por-ter (Baltic Porter; Smuttynose Brewing

Company, NH). This porter pours just about jet black, with no transparency and a thick, foamy, mocha-colored head that takes significant time to fall. Decadent, earthy characteristics of coffee, dark chocolate and roasted malt lead the nose and palate, with hints of dark berry and plum making a slight appearance in the background after warming. The fruit becomes pronounced on the palate, although the malty core and mocha flavors still

abound. The finish is long and warm, laced with hints of sweet smoke and molasses.abv: 9.36% Price: $9/22 oz

94 Deschutes Black Butte XXIV 24th Birth-day Reserve (American Porter; De-

schutes Brewery, OR). Deschutes’s Birthday Re-serve is an annual limited-edition release to watch for. The base is Deschute’s Black Butte Porter, brewed with Theo chocolate nibs, Deglet dates and Mission figs, and partially aged in Bourbon barrels. It’s 24th release is powerful and dense, with loads of aromas and flavors of dark fruit, chocolate malt, raw vanilla bean, lightly roast-ed coffee, sweet spice and cigar box. The bottle recom-mends consumption after July 2013, but given the in-tense characteristics, full body, creamy mouthfeel and endless finish, this could easily continue to evolve well through 2014. Cellar Selection.abv: 11% Price: $12/22 oz

94 Samuel Smith The Famous Taddy Porter (English Porter; Samuel Smith Old Brew-

ery (Tadcaster), England). Taddy Porter pours a dark brown color with a thick, tan-colored head. Aro-mas and flavors of toasted nut, bittersweet cocoa, but-ter crunch and raisin, with accents of soft hops and sweet smoke, add depth to the roasted malt core. The mouthfeel is medium weight, full and satisfying, with good carbonation to liven up the intense, roasted flavors and long finish. A drinkable, well-balanced and flavor-ful brew.abv: 5% Price: $4/550 ml

OTHER ALES

88 Brekle’s Brown (American Brown Ale; Anchor Brewing Company, CA). This is

a rich and nutty brown ale that would be great paired with sharp Cheddar or nutty cheese. The hop charac-ter is subtle but present, providing lifting lemon and green apple notes, as well as soft astringency, to counter the sweet-tasting flavors of caramel, pecan and roasted malt. Hints of brown bread and sweet spice linger on the close. abv: 6% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack

87 Samuel Adams Norse Legend Sahti (Sahti; Boston Beer Co., MA). First brewed

in Finland during the 1500s, sahti is a farmhouse ale that originally utilized a bed of juniper twigs as a filter for the brew. This is an ode to that primitive style; it’s brewed with and aged on juniper berries (as opposed to the branches), resulting in an interesting beer of nu-ance and character. The bouquet is soft and approach-able, with subtle notes of caramel and sweet citrus at the forefront. The juniper flavor is apparent on the pal-ate, spicing up the sweet malt core and adding depth to the medium-weight mouth, lingering well into the me-dium-length close. abv: 7% Price: $6/22 oz

87 Samuel Adams Verloren Gose (Gose; Boston Beer Co., MA). An old German beer

style from Leipzig, gose is an unfiltered wheat beer with low hop bitterness that’s brewed with coriander and salt. It pours a cloudy deep-gold color with a thick off-white head. The bouquet is full and rich, with a slight hon-eyed character to the yellow stone fruit and banana aro-mas. Salty bread dough, white tea, coriander and orange blossom notes abound on the nose and palate, with a nice citrus burst that keeps the palate fresh and lively. An herbal, saline note continues through the dry finish.abv: 6% Price: $6/22 oz

It’s one of the most common beer questions asked: What is the difference between a stout and a porter? With such strong

similarities between their aromas and flavors as well as their structures and balance, it’s difficult to get a grasp on how these two styles differ.

Historically and presently, the two styles are very similar in overall profile and ingredients used, which makes any strict distinctions between the beers blurry. Originally perceived as a lighter stout (just as a stout was perceived to be a stronger version of a porter), porters can vary widely, from bitter and roasty to sweet and chocolaty, and all variations in between.

But the strange thing is that many people are comfortable with stouts, and not with porters. Stouts have greater name recognition, are more

widely available and, for some reason, have an identity that seems more defined. People feel confident in their expectations of a bottle of stout; not, however, with porters.

Interpretation and personalization are key here. There are more “traditional” porters, like English or Baltic offerings, and then there are new, innovative beers from American craft brewers, developing a style all their own with ingredients like coffee or smoked malts, and techniques like oak aging.

The style lines are once again blurred as envelope-pushing brewers are thinking outside of the box and trying recipes and methods that were never before used. Perfect for cold winter nights, here are some great brews to start off your porter experimentation.

Prost! —LauReN Buzzeo

BEER

PROGRESSIVE PORTERS