A piece of cactus on thedoor signals the arrivalof a new life in thefamily and, accordingto the Pa-O tradition,fends off evil spirits anddaemons that might beharmful to the child.

Meanwhile, a wisp of smoke rises from the chim-ney behind the stupas. I follow a herd of sheepto a village entrance. Under the lush umbrella ofa huge banyan tree, children sit like a crescent infront of a snack peddler. Their faces tell it all. Thehome-made snacks are the most delicious in theworld. On the main street, cheers erupts as youngmen kick Chinlon – Myanmar’s national sport witha flair of volleyball and football. Further down theroad, outside a small grocery store, women gos-sip and together roll cigarettes with local tobacco.

I am cordially invited into a family home. It is atypical Myanmar style home with wooden andbamboo structure, with the main floor a few feetabove the ground. Tea, snack and fruits are of-fered, family members are introduced, neighboursgather. Smiles are written on the faces, commonlanguage is not required.

Sitting on a cool bamboo matt, I sip tea whilewatching people chat and children play. I ponderthe phrase of “gross national happiness” I learntnot long ago. For a person who comes from acountry with the biggest gross national productin the world, my sense of happiness is dwarfed

by the peaceful and harmonious lifestyle I expe-rience here and elsewhere in Myanmar. The peo-ple of this country deserve neither a military gov-ernment nor poverty. But where should the coun-try steer toward from here? Would the democ-racy we transplant from our soil ever flourish ontheir land? Would the merchandise we export in-crease their happiness? Would the land cease toenchant with the influx of foreign culture? Shouldall countries have the same political framework,and share the same set of value? What would bethe Myanmar people’s choice if they were givenfreedom?

When I depart Mandalay for Yangon, I hail a rick-shaw from my hotel to the bus station. At the endof the long and exhausted ride on the pothole-littered streets, the rickshaw driver insists to guideme through the chaotic bus station, verify the busnumber, and wait under the blazing sun until thebus departs. As I watch him waving farewell withsmile through the tinted window of the movingbus, It reminds me Kipling’s famous quote in hisLetters from the East. Although this is the 21st cen-tury Myanmar, it is still quite unlike any land weknow about.

In Innwa, a Buddha is holding a flower bouquetoffered by an unknown devotee. A long timecapital of northern Myanmar after the fall ofBagan, Innwa was later abandoned in favour ofAmarapura a few kilometres to its north. Today,the ruin of this ancient capital offers a quiet re-treat from the more touristic Amarapura.

PPPPPhotographer and au-hotographer and au-hotographer and au-hotographer and au-hotographer and au-thor J.-L. Gao posesthor J.-L. Gao posesthor J.-L. Gao posesthor J.-L. Gao posesthor J.-L. Gao posesin front of a colour-in front of a colour-in front of a colour-in front of a colour-in front of a colour-

ful horse-drawn carriage out-ful horse-drawn carriage out-ful horse-drawn carriage out-ful horse-drawn carriage out-ful horse-drawn carriage out-side the Pyin U Lwin Thea-side the Pyin U Lwin Thea-side the Pyin U Lwin Thea-side the Pyin U Lwin Thea-side the Pyin U Lwin Thea-tre. Many readers are keenlytre. Many readers are keenlytre. Many readers are keenlytre. Many readers are keenlytre. Many readers are keenlyinterested in what equipmentinterested in what equipmentinterested in what equipmentinterested in what equipmentinterested in what equipmenthe uses during his journeyshe uses during his journeyshe uses during his journeyshe uses during his journeyshe uses during his journeysaround the world. Myanmararound the world. Myanmararound the world. Myanmararound the world. Myanmararound the world. Myanmarwas the first field test of hiswas the first field test of hiswas the first field test of hiswas the first field test of hiswas the first field test of hisnewly acquired, somewhatnewly acquired, somewhatnewly acquired, somewhatnewly acquired, somewhatnewly acquired, somewhatamateurish Canon EOSamateurish Canon EOSamateurish Canon EOSamateurish Canon EOSamateurish Canon EOS300D digital camera, along300D digital camera, along300D digital camera, along300D digital camera, along300D digital camera, alongwith a Canon 17-40mm/4 Lwith a Canon 17-40mm/4 Lwith a Canon 17-40mm/4 Lwith a Canon 17-40mm/4 Lwith a Canon 17-40mm/4 Land a Canon 70-200mm/4and a Canon 70-200mm/4and a Canon 70-200mm/4and a Canon 70-200mm/4and a Canon 70-200mm/4L lenses. Before that, he wasL lenses. Before that, he wasL lenses. Before that, he wasL lenses. Before that, he wasL lenses. Before that, he wasusing two manual Nikon’susing two manual Nikon’susing two manual Nikon’susing two manual Nikon’susing two manual Nikon’swith a few lenses of fixed fo-with a few lenses of fixed fo-with a few lenses of fixed fo-with a few lenses of fixed fo-with a few lenses of fixed fo-cal lengths. Ultimately, hecal lengths. Ultimately, hecal lengths. Ultimately, hecal lengths. Ultimately, hecal lengths. Ultimately, hethinks, photo equipmentthinks, photo equipmentthinks, photo equipmentthinks, photo equipmentthinks, photo equipmentwould not add values to awould not add values to awould not add values to awould not add values to awould not add values to a

E n R o u t eO N T H E R O A D I N T H E F I E L D C O V E R I N G T H E W O R L D

photographer’s inspiration. While he is often fas-photographer’s inspiration. While he is often fas-photographer’s inspiration. While he is often fas-photographer’s inspiration. While he is often fas-photographer’s inspiration. While he is often fas-cinated by the photos taken by himself, he is alsocinated by the photos taken by himself, he is alsocinated by the photos taken by himself, he is alsocinated by the photos taken by himself, he is alsocinated by the photos taken by himself, he is alsofrustrated by his lack of literary capability tofrustrated by his lack of literary capability tofrustrated by his lack of literary capability tofrustrated by his lack of literary capability tofrustrated by his lack of literary capability towrite, and desperately need help to improve hiswrite, and desperately need help to improve hiswrite, and desperately need help to improve hiswrite, and desperately need help to improve hiswrite, and desperately need help to improve hiswriting skill.writing skill.writing skill.writing skill.writing skill.

Many experiences in the enchanting MyanmarMany experiences in the enchanting MyanmarMany experiences in the enchanting MyanmarMany experiences in the enchanting MyanmarMany experiences in the enchanting Myanmarhave left the author an unfadable memory. Onhave left the author an unfadable memory. Onhave left the author an unfadable memory. Onhave left the author an unfadable memory. Onhave left the author an unfadable memory. Onthe train from Yangon to Mandalay, he encoun-the train from Yangon to Mandalay, he encoun-the train from Yangon to Mandalay, he encoun-the train from Yangon to Mandalay, he encoun-the train from Yangon to Mandalay, he encoun-tered Myo Myo Win, an elderly Chinese-Burmesetered Myo Myo Win, an elderly Chinese-Burmesetered Myo Myo Win, an elderly Chinese-Burmesetered Myo Myo Win, an elderly Chinese-Burmesetered Myo Myo Win, an elderly Chinese-Burmesewoman, who was apparently excited in seeing thewoman, who was apparently excited in seeing thewoman, who was apparently excited in seeing thewoman, who was apparently excited in seeing thewoman, who was apparently excited in seeing thefirst compatriot in many years. She offered himfirst compatriot in many years. She offered himfirst compatriot in many years. She offered himfirst compatriot in many years. She offered himfirst compatriot in many years. She offered himfood, and chatted as if seeing a long-time miss-food, and chatted as if seeing a long-time miss-food, and chatted as if seeing a long-time miss-food, and chatted as if seeing a long-time miss-food, and chatted as if seeing a long-time miss-ing friend. When he felt asleep in midnight,ing friend. When he felt asleep in midnight,ing friend. When he felt asleep in midnight,ing friend. When he felt asleep in midnight,ing friend. When he felt asleep in midnight,she often woke up and watched him like a mothershe often woke up and watched him like a mothershe often woke up and watched him like a mothershe often woke up and watched him like a mothershe often woke up and watched him like a motherwatching her son, according to the recollectionwatching her son, according to the recollectionwatching her son, according to the recollectionwatching her son, according to the recollectionwatching her son, according to the recollectionof a fellow traveller. She later took him to meetof a fellow traveller. She later took him to meetof a fellow traveller. She later took him to meetof a fellow traveller. She later took him to meetof a fellow traveller. She later took him to meether daughter’s family in Mandalay.her daughter’s family in Mandalay.her daughter’s family in Mandalay.her daughter’s family in Mandalay.her daughter’s family in Mandalay.

When the author returned to Yangon, she closedWhen the author returned to Yangon, she closedWhen the author returned to Yangon, she closedWhen the author returned to Yangon, she closedWhen the author returned to Yangon, she closedher tailoring stall for a day in order to take himher tailoring stall for a day in order to take himher tailoring stall for a day in order to take himher tailoring stall for a day in order to take himher tailoring stall for a day in order to take himtour the city, China town, experience the vintagetour the city, China town, experience the vintagetour the city, China town, experience the vintagetour the city, China town, experience the vintagetour the city, China town, experience the vintageteakwood Chevrolet bus, and showed him manyteakwood Chevrolet bus, and showed him manyteakwood Chevrolet bus, and showed him manyteakwood Chevrolet bus, and showed him manyteakwood Chevrolet bus, and showed him manyaspects of Myanmar life the author would other-aspects of Myanmar life the author would other-aspects of Myanmar life the author would other-aspects of Myanmar life the author would other-aspects of Myanmar life the author would other-wise never see.wise never see.wise never see.wise never see.wise never see.

Also in Yangon, a middle age man spent hoursAlso in Yangon, a middle age man spent hoursAlso in Yangon, a middle age man spent hoursAlso in Yangon, a middle age man spent hoursAlso in Yangon, a middle age man spent hourstaking the confused author to different traveltaking the confused author to different traveltaking the confused author to different traveltaking the confused author to different traveltaking the confused author to different travelagents, and finally secured the author’s planeagents, and finally secured the author’s planeagents, and finally secured the author’s planeagents, and finally secured the author’s planeagents, and finally secured the author’s planeticket home.ticket home.ticket home.ticket home.ticket home.

In a Taoist temple in Pyin U Lwin, nuns in-In a Taoist temple in Pyin U Lwin, nuns in-In a Taoist temple in Pyin U Lwin, nuns in-In a Taoist temple in Pyin U Lwin, nuns in-In a Taoist temple in Pyin U Lwin, nuns in-vited the author to sit and share delicious ver-vited the author to sit and share delicious ver-vited the author to sit and share delicious ver-vited the author to sit and share delicious ver-vited the author to sit and share delicious ver-micelli brunch together.micelli brunch together.micelli brunch together.micelli brunch together.micelli brunch together.

During the two day trekking through the moun-During the two day trekking through the moun-During the two day trekking through the moun-During the two day trekking through the moun-During the two day trekking through the moun-tainous villages near Kalaw, the guide Charlestainous villages near Kalaw, the guide Charlestainous villages near Kalaw, the guide Charlestainous villages near Kalaw, the guide Charlestainous villages near Kalaw, the guide Charlesalways took care of the author so cordially. Dur-always took care of the author so cordially. Dur-always took care of the author so cordially. Dur-always took care of the author so cordially. Dur-always took care of the author so cordially. Dur-ing the overnight stay in a midway monas-ing the overnight stay in a midway monas-ing the overnight stay in a midway monas-ing the overnight stay in a midway monas-ing the overnight stay in a midway monas-tery, he cooked the most delicious meal the au-tery, he cooked the most delicious meal the au-tery, he cooked the most delicious meal the au-tery, he cooked the most delicious meal the au-tery, he cooked the most delicious meal the au-thor ever had in Myanmar.thor ever had in Myanmar.thor ever had in Myanmar.thor ever had in Myanmar.thor ever had in Myanmar.

Also in Kalaw, the headmaster of an orphanageAlso in Kalaw, the headmaster of an orphanageAlso in Kalaw, the headmaster of an orphanageAlso in Kalaw, the headmaster of an orphanageAlso in Kalaw, the headmaster of an orphanageordered all children to performe choir in frontordered all children to performe choir in frontordered all children to performe choir in frontordered all children to performe choir in frontordered all children to performe choir in frontof this single audience. They sang so hard,of this single audience. They sang so hard,of this single audience. They sang so hard,of this single audience. They sang so hard,of this single audience. They sang so hard,and the voice of these children still lingers inand the voice of these children still lingers inand the voice of these children still lingers inand the voice of these children still lingers inand the voice of these children still lingers inhis ears.his ears.his ears.his ears.his ears.

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