Featuring North America’s Leading Travel Destinations

Mountains & Valleys

Cathedral Rock, Sedona, Arizona

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By Steve Kirchner, Editor & PublisherPREVIEW

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Welcome to Byways Mountainsand Valleys issue. We travelfrom west to east to explore

some of the most breathtaking sceneryin North America.

We begin the journey in Arizona witha visit to Sedona, and we learn why it’s

more than a day trip. In fact, it would take weeks to takein beautiful scenery here, but we’ll let the photos tell thestory. From historic Indian ruins, to a meteor crater towine tasting, this is a trip of a lifetime.

Next stop is Salt Lake City, where we learn why Utahsettled along the massiveWasatch Mountain Range.Known as the Wasatch Front,this area is now home to some 2million people. The mountainswere a vital source of water,timber and granite for early set-tlers, and today 85 percent ofUtah’s population lives within15 miles of the Wasatch Range.

It’s also home to world-classski resorts, with hundreds ofmiles of mountain biking andhiking trails through thecanyons and alpine valleys ofthe Wasatch.

Next stop is the Palo Duro, the Grand Canyon ofTexas. It’s the second largest canyon in the country, andlies in the heart of the Texas Panhandle, about 25 milesfrom Amarillo.

The canyon has been inhabited for 12,000 years, andmore recently the Apache, Comanche and Kiowa Indiansused the canyon’s many resources.

The canyon is a state park, Palo Duro Canyon Statepark, and there is plenty to do here.

One of the most well-known is hosting the summerperformances of the outdoor musical drama, TEXAS.

Celebrating its 50th season this year, a lone horsemantraditionally opens the show atop a 600 foot cliff, signal-ing the beginning on one of the most spectacular outdoormusical drams anywhere. Only a state as big as Texascould host a show as big as TEXAS!

Next it’s north to New York State, and DutchessCounty, the perfect backdrop for the Hudson Valley.Nature lovers will delight in an abundance of formal gar-dens and nature sanctuaries, and history buffs willexplore the pre-Revolutionary War, early Quaker days,

the Gilded Age, or the early 20th century and the era ofFDR. The Franklin D. Roosevelt Presidential Home,Library & Museum is an immersive experience and TheSpirit of the Gift exhibit showcases nearly 100 presiden-tial gifts given to FDR.

In West Virginia we visit Wheeling, a city steeped inrich history, Wheeling is established with a solid reputa-tion for friendliness and is a city bursting with activitiesfor all ages.

Following a tour through history, stop by WheelingHeritage Port where you’ll marvel at the WheelingSuspension bridge, part of US National Road. The 1010-foot, single-span bridge opened in 1849, predating the

Civil War. Upon opening, itwas the longest suspensionbridge in the world and the firstbridge to cross the Ohio River.

Next we head further southwhere we learn how the wineshines in North Carolina’sYadkin Valley. Winston-Salemis the gateway to the state’smost popular wineries, and theYadkin Valley has become oneof the top producing wineregions in the eastern UnitedStates.

Originating in the 16th century, when Sir WalterRaleigh landed on the coast and discovered the scupper-mong vine, North Carolina’s wine industry was the topin the union by 1840. It began a decline in 1920 withprohibition. Today, farmland has been returned to grow-ing grapes, and the industry in the Yadkin Valley isbooming.

In What’s Happening, we visit the Las Vegas MobMuseum, the National Museum of Organized Crime andLaw Enforcement. It seems crime pays, as the museumhas attracted 500,000 visitors from all 50 states and 35foreign countries in just two years!

In Arkansas, we visit Hot Springs as the FordyceBathhouse turns 100. Today the Fordyce on BathhouseRow serves as the Hot Springs National Park’s visitorcenter. Through the Fordyce’s exhibits on thermalbathing, learn about Hot Springs bathing history.

Finally, we follow-up on the recent story on NewYork’s One World Trade Center. Next month theObservatory on the Top of One World Trade Center isopening with unparcelled views of New York City. It’sgoing to be an experience you won’t want to miss!

The Wasatch & Salt Lake City

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FeaturesMountains & Valleys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Sedona, Arizona -- More Than A Day Trip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Utah Settles Along the Wasatch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16Palo Duro, The Grand Canyon of Texas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22Dutchess County: Hudson Valley Picture Perfect for Fun. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28Steeped in History, Wheeling is West Virginia’s “Friendly City’ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34Wine Shines in North Carolina’s Yadkin Valley. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38

DepartmentsByways Instant Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Byways Preview. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Advertisers Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49Free Byways Subscription . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

What’s HappeningThe Mob Museum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42Hot Springs Fordyce Bathhouse Turns 100 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46Observatory at Top of One World Trade Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

Coming in future issues of Byways…. . .Ocean destinations along the Atlantic, Pacific andGulf, Rivers and Lakes, Great American Roads, The Leading North American TourDestinations, and muchmore!

Coming Up: Cruisingthe California Coast isfeatured in Bywaysannual Ocean Viewsissue. Also featuringdestinations along theAtlantic, Gulf andPacific Oceans.

Volume 32, Issue No. 2, 2015

On the cover. Cathedral Rock near Sedona, Arizona is featured on theMountains and Valley issue cover. For more on Mountains & Valleys, turn topage 8. Photo courtesy Sedona Chamber of Commerce & Tourism Bureau.

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Mountains & Valleys

A young woman meditates in the breathtaking scenerynear Sedona, Arizona. Photo courtesy Sedona Chamberof Commerce & Tourism Bureau.

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Sedona, Arizona -- More Than a Day Trip!

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Reflections of Cathedral Rock in the water nearSedona, Arizona. Photo courtesy Sedona

Chamber of Commerce & Tourism Bureau.

People love to travel, looking for beautiful places tovisit and experience. One of those places is justsouth of the Grand Canyon, Sedona, Arizona.

Sedona is recognized for the glorious red rock, butthere is so much more.Sedona Day Trips – You’ll Want More thanJust One Day!

Sedona, Arizona is visited by people from around theworld, all of whom seek different adventures.  For manythe main attractions are the numerous hiking trails withjust as much variety in difficulty, and the miles of bikingpaths available around the town. 

It would take weeks to explore every one of them andsee the beautiful natural scenery each offers.  For others,their interest may be in the eclectic art scene and the var-ious galleries scattered throughout Sedona.  But there isso much more to Sedona than nature walks and uniqueart shops.  Sedona is located near a multitude of locationsthat make perfect day trips.

Sedona is located near two different Native Americanruin sites: the Palatki Ruins and the Honaki IndianRuins.  These two villages were lively centers of dailylife and culture from AD 1150 – 1300.  The Palatki sitefeatures ancient cliff dwellings and pictographs.  Threedifferent trails in the site offer three unique experiences. 

The first takes visitors up to the Sinagua cliffdwellings; the second leads to a view of the dwellingsfrom higher up; and the third takes you to the alcoves thatshelter the cave paintings from the cultures that onceoccupied the Verde Valley.  The Honaki Indian ruins is asister site from around the same historical time, whichalso displays cliff dwellings and rock art.  These sites

were the homes of the Sinagua people, the ancestors ofthe Hopi people who still live in the area today.  In fact,Sedona is located near one of the largest Hopi reserva-tions in the country.

Today, the Hopi people live in three different areas inthe Southwestern United States: the first mesa, secondmesa, and third mesa. While the language, customs, andtraditions are similar between all three areas, each reser-vation or village conducts its own ceremonies and hasfeatures that are unique from the other two.  Sedona islocated closest to the second mesa, which includes threevillages (Shungopavi, Mishongovi, and Sipaulovi). Thisarea has been lived in for over one thousand years.Spend a day visiting the cultural center and exploring thebeautiful rock formations of this amazing village.  Youcan see social dances, as well as visit galleries of art andcrafts that cannot be found anywhere else in the world.Photography is prohibited on the reservation, so the onlyway to see the beauty and culture of the second mesa isto experience it yourself with your own eyes.

If an ideal day trip involves fewer ruins and museums,maybe the world’s best-preserved meteorite impact sitewill prove more interesting?  The Meteor Crater is anastonishing site, the result of an asteroid colliding withthe surface of the earth at an estimated 26,000 miles perhour.   The crater is almost a mile across and is deepenough to expose multiple layers of stone and rock thatnow lie in an inverted order due to the impact.  TheMeteor Crater was established as a landmark in 1967,and a modern visitor center is located right on the rim ofthe crater.  There a visitor can enjoy an 80-seatwidescreen theatre, indoor viewing area, crater trailaccess, interactive discovery center, artifacts andexhibits, and gift shop.

Downtown Sedona - Route 89A. Photo courtesy Ken Lund.

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Rushing waters flow beneath CathedralRock. Photo courtesy Sedona Chamberof Commerce & Tourism Bureau.

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However, Sedona can serve as a central location formore than just hikes, museums, and visitorcenters.   Sedona and the surrounding areas of PageSprings and Cornville are the center of Arizona’s winecountry.  The higher altitude, rich soil, and weather pat-terns make it ideal for cultivating reds like Syrah, Merlot,and Cabernet as well as sweeter whites likeChardonnay.  

Wine tasting in Sedona is the perfect way to sample thefinest wines at the nicest wine bars and wineries in thearea.  And where there is good wine, there is good food!Sedona’s wine bars and restaurants offer delicious dish-es to fill your stomach as you sample different selectionsfrom local wineries. 

Local experts will be able to customize your tastingexperience with anything from a one-on-one tasting to

Cathedral Rock at sunset. Photo courtesy SedonaChamber of Commerce & Tourism Bureau.

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Meteor Crater Aerial View.Photo courtesy Shane Torgerson.

group tastings.  There are even jeep excursions that allowyou to tour the areas where the wine is grown beforereturning to town.

These are just a small selection of the different daytrips that Sedona offers.  There are many more attractionsto be seen and adventures to be had on your trip toSedona.  One thing you will need while you fill yourdays with these wonderful sites is a place to return to

after the adventure is over.  El Portal Sedona Hotel, which helped in preparing this

article, can be your home while exploring Sedona andcountryside.  The boutique hotel is centrally located andwith knowledgeable staff who offer personalizedconcierge services for the Sedona area. El Portal Sedonais the perfect place to rest and relax between trips!http://visitsedona.com

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Utah Settles Alongthe Wasatch

The Wasatch Mountain Range frames the Salt Lake City Skyline.Photo by Douglas Pulsipher, courtesy Visit Salt Lake.

Since the earliest days of Utah settlement, the major-ity of the state’s population has chosen to settlealong the Wasatch Mountain range’s western front,

where numerous river drainages exit the mountains. The Wasatch Mountain Range stretches some 160

miles from the Utah-Idaho border, south through centralUtah.

The mountains were a vital source of water, timber,and granite for early settlers. Today, 85% of Utah’s pop-ulation lives within 15 miles of the Wasatch Range,

mainly in the valleys just to the west. This concentrationis known as the Wasatch Front and has a population ofjust over 2,000,000 residents. Salt Lake City liesbetween the Wasatch Range and the Great Salt Lake.

At 11,928 feet, Mount Nebo, a triple peak rising aboveNephi, Utah at the southern end of the range, is the high-est peak of the Wasatch. In some places the mountainsrise immediately from the valley’'s base elevation of4,330 feet to over 11,000 feet, producing steep inclines.

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Mount Olympus. Photo courtesyDouglas Pulsipher and Visit Salt Lake.

massive peak which loomsover much of southern SaltLake County and northernUtah County and is espe-cially prominent fromProvo.

Also, Lone Peak, theTwin Peaks, and MountOlympus, which overlookthe Salt Lake Valley;

Francis Peak overlooking both Morgan and Davis coun-ties; and Ben Lomond and Mount Ogden, both nearOgden, Utah.

The northern Wasatch Range is punctuated by a seriesof mountain valleys. While the western side of the rangedrops sharply to the floors of the Wasatch Front valleys,the eastern side of the range is gentler, allowing for theconstruction of several ski resorts. The Cottonwoods, aparticularly rugged and dense area just east of the SaltLake Valley, shelters small mountain coves that harborfour world-famous ski resorts (Alta, Brighton, Solitude,and Snowbird).

The eastern slopes of the Cottonwoods drop to theSnyderville Basin, which contains Park City and itsthree neighboring ski resorts. Much of the eastern sideof the range from north of Salt Lake City to the BearRiver Mountains is especially gentle in comparison tothe rest of the range. The range widens significantly eastof Ogden, sheltering a high mountain valley known asthe Ogden Valley. Three more ski resorts lie here, aswell as several small towns, Huntsville, Liberty, andEden.

Throughout the length of the Wasatch Range, it is tra-versed by just 7 highways. The two most prominent areI-80 through Parley’s Canyon east of Salt Lake City, andI-84 through Weber Canyon east of Ogden. They meetnear the ghost town of Echo on the eastern slopes of therange and continue northeast as I-80.

Other highways through the range include U.S. 6/U.S.89 through Spanish Fork Canyon, U.S. 189 throughProvo Canyon, Utah State Route 39 extending east fromHuntsville (a route which is closed in winter), U.S.89/U.S. 91 through Logan Canyon, and along IdahoState Route 36 near the northern end of the range.

In addition to the world class ski resorts, the Wasatch

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Four famous Wasatch Ski Resortsare just 30 minutes from downtownSalt Lake City. Photo by PatrickOrton, courtesy Visit Salt Lake.

Big Cottonwood Canyon.Photo by Steve Greenwood, courtesy Visit Salt Lake.

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range is home to a host of other outdoor pursuitsas well. Hundreds of miles of mountain biking andhiking trails wind through the canyons and alpinevalleys of the Wasatch offering back countryaccess in very close proximity to a large metro-politan area.

Outdoor enthusiasts can also find world classrock climbing and mountaineering on the tower-ing limestone, granite and quartzite peaks and inmany of the surrounding canyons.

Winter recreation includes excellent ski touring& ski mountaineering.

Alpine lakes and streams offer many fishing

opportunities. The Wasatch Mountain Club offersregular activities allowing one to experience theWasatch Range.

The Utah Native Plant Society regularly con-ducts walks from spring until fall along thefoothills of the Central Wasatch Front and inadjoining canyons as the seasons progress. A par-ticularly spectacular location for wildflowers inthe late summer is Albion Basin at the top of LittleCottonwood Canyon.Visit Salt Lake

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Summer Snowbird Tram.Photo by Adam Barker,courtesy Visit Salt Lake.

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Palo Duro, TheGrand Canyon

of Texas

Lighthouse Rock, the Palo DuroCanyon of Texas. Photo courtesy

Texas State Parks & Wildlife.

The second largest canyon in the country lies in theheart of the Texas Panhandle. Visit Palo DuroCanyon State Park; experience the canyon’s

rugged beauty and enjoy its colorful history.Palo Duro Canyon State Partk is located in the Texas

Panhandle, about 25 miles from Amarillo.People have inhabited Palo Duro Canyon for about

12,000 years. The Clovis and Folsom peoples first livedin the canyon and hunted large herds of mammoth andgiant bison.

Other cultures, such as the Apache, Comanche andKiowa, used the canyon’s plentiful resources morerecently.

These early cultures left behind rock art and bedrockmortars, where they ground mesquite beans and roots forfood. Preserve the past by looking at but not touchingany artifacts that you see.

Early Spanish explorers probably discovered thecanyon, naming it Palo Duro, Spanish for hard wood.Battle of Palo Duro

The Red River War  between the U.S. Army and south-ern Plains Indians lasted from June 1874 to spring 1875.

A decisive battle occurred in the canyon on Sept. 28,1874.

Colonel Ranald S. Mackenzie led the 4th U.S. Cavalryin a surprise attack at dawn on a camp of Comanches,Kiowas and Cheyennes. The families fled up the canyon,leaving everything behind. MacKenzie’s troops captured1,400 ponies and shot most of them. Soldiers also burnedall the teepees and winter stores.

With no horses or supplies, the families had no choicebut to return to the reservation. The reign of NativeAmericans over the Panhandle plains ended soon after.Ranch Era

Charles Goodnight, a former Texas Ranger, drove1,600 Longhorn cattle to the canyon in 1876. He and hispartner John Adair, an English aristocrat, founded the JARanch in 1877.

At its peak in 1885, the ranch grazed 100,000 head ofcattle on 1,325,000 acres spread across the Panhandle.

The state bought the land for the park from Fred S.Emory in 1933. Soon after, Civilian Conservation Corpsworkers arrived, and spent the next five years creating apark.

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The Grand Canyon of Texas. Photocourtesy TEXAS Outdoor Musical.

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Things to DoExplore the canyon by foot, mountain bike, horse or

car. There are more than 30 miles of hiking, biking andequestrian trails. Camp, geocache, study nature or birdwatch.

During the summer, enjoy a performance of the out-door musical drama TEXAS.

TEXAS, the Outdoor Musical Celebrates 50thSeasonAlone Horseman, carrying the flag of the great

state of Texas appears atop a 600 foot cliff, sig-naling the beginning of the most spectacular out-

door musical drama in the world. With a moving swell ofthe music, the horseman gallops away. Suddenly, a castof more than 60 actors, singers and dancers takes thestage to kick off the show that millions of fans from allaround the world have come to see. Only a state as big asTexas could host a show as big as TEXAS!

The Pioneer Amphitheatre, carved out of and nestledinto a natural basin in the majestic Palo Duro Canyoncomes alive once again this summer with the 50thAnniversary Season of the Official Play of the State ofTexas.

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TEXAS Musical drama performed in the PioneerAmphitheatre in Palo Duro State Park. Photos

courtesy TEXAS Outdoor Musical.

mer at the Pioneer Amphitheatre in thepark. Watch the stories, struggles and tri-umphs of early settlers. The family-friendly show has singing, dancing,fireworks and lots of Texas humor!

Come early for a barbecue dinner onthe covered patio.

For tickets, call the box office at 806-655-2181 or visit the TEXAS website.Park Visitor Center

Stop by the Palo Duro State ParkVisitor Center on the canyon rim to learnmore about the park.

The park store at the Visitor Centersells books, pottery, jewelry and more.Look for souvenirs, snacks and meals atThe Trading Post on the canyon floor.Park Horseback riding 

Ride on trails through 1,500 acres setaside for horseback riding. You can alsoshare two other trails with hikers andmountain bikers.

Bring your own horses (originalCoggins papers required). Park yourtrailer at the equestrian campground andbring a water bucket for your horse!

Old West Stables on the canyon floorleads tours for the whole family or groupto Timber Creek Canyon. They alsooffer souvenirs and a snack bar.

Reservations required; call (806) 488-2180.

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A cast of more than 60 actors, singers and dancers takesthe stage at the TEXAS Outdoor Musical.

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Dutchess County - Hudson Valley’s Picture

Perfect Backdrop for Fun!

Walkway over the Hudson River.

The gift of nature is ever present in DutchessCounty of the Hudson Valley and there are somany ways to see it all; a walk along the river’s

banks or a guided hike through the highlands with HikeNew York, a visit to the intimate Trevor Zoo, a relaxingriver boat cruise, an exciting bi-plane ride. And you evenarrive via a scenic train ride on Amtrak.

Nature lovers will delight in an abundance of formalgardens and nature sanctuaries from the strictly imposedorder of a terraced, ornamental garden to the undisturbednaturalness of a forest preserve. A stroll throughInnisfree Garden offers a combination of moderndesign and Asian “cup” gardens with rare plants andflowers and a shimmering lake; a sublime compositionof rock, water, wood and sky.

Historic sites are a main attraction of the DutchessCounty landscape. Not only can you step back in time,you can choose which time; pre-Revolutionary War, ear-ly Quaker days, the Gilded Age, or the early 20th centu-ry and the era of FDR. The Franklin D. RooseveltPresidential Home, Library & Museum is an immer-sive experience and The Spirit of the Gift exhibit show-cases nearly 100 presidential gifts given to FDR bygovernments, organizations, and private individuals.(April 25-Dec 31, 2015).

Dutchess is home to miles of uninterrupted bike trails.They connect to Walkway Over the Hudson, theworld’s longest pedestrian bridge. The park’s new glass30 • Byways

AMTRAK on the Hudson River.

Photo courtesy of Innisfree Garden.

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CCS Hessel Museum at Bard.

Crown MapleSyrup Tasting atMadava Farms.

elevator can whisk you up the top in a mere 90 secondsfor unbelievable views.

Try your hand at sporting clays, trap or skeet shootingat seven clubs and game preserves including the nation’soldest shooting grounds, Orvis Sandanona. On it, overit, or even in it; Dutchess’ 30 miles of Hudson Riverfrontage encourage fishing, swimming, kayaking, andwaterside dining.

Commune with nature at 16 championship golf cours-es, two are among the oldest in the USA. You’ll find avariety of sizes and designs including an Irish links-stylecourse.

Whatever your tastes in the arts you'll find a museumto match your mood. How about an 18th-century oilpainting by Hudson River School master FredericChurch? Or a giant modern sculpture by visionary artistRichard Serra? Browse the fine art collections atDia:Beacon, Vassar’s Loeb Art Center, and Bard’sCCS Hessel Museum. Gallery spaces flourish, featuringmulti-media works from area artists, as well as curatedcollections from around the world.

Dance, drama, film and music all have a home inDutchess. Performing art spaces run the gamut from one32 • Byways

FDR Map Room.Photo courtesy FDR Presidential Library.

of the country’s oldest, the Bardavon, to one of thenewest, Richard B. Fisher Center for PerformingArts, a bold architectural wonder designed by Frank O.Gehry.

Check out the nightlife, from music and comedy clubslike the Towne Crier Café and Daryl’s House, to neigh-borhood pubs and mellow wine bars.

Whether you are looking for that one-of-a-kindantique, a memorable farm-to-table meal, a nostalgicdrive-in movie theater, a carefully crafted artisanal beer,a spectacular mountain view, or your own personal con-nection to America’s history, you can find it in DutchessCounty.

For more information, contact Dutchess Tourism Inc.http://dutchesstourism.com/

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Photo Courtesy Andrew Halpern Staatsburgh State Historic Site.

Richard B. Fisher Center for the PerformingArts. Photo courtesy Peter Aaron.

Photo courtesy VanderbiltMansion National Historic Site.

Wheeling, West Virginia’s scenic riverfront loca-tion, century-spanning historical sites andaward-winning events solidify the area’s repu-

tation as a memorable and affordable destination experi-ence. Steeped in rich history, Wheeling is establishedwith a solid reputation for friendliness and is a city burst-ing with activities for all ages.

It’s no wonder Wheeling residents stand by its reputa-tion of being known as “The Friendly City!”

Arriving in Wheeling, the best place to start is where

it all began - West Virginia Independence Hall.Originally constructed as the Wheeling Custom House,the facility provided space for heated political discus-sions and constitutional conventions that led to eventualstatehood for West Virginia in 1863. Here, issues divid-ing many Virginians - slavery being one of many - weredebated, compromised and shaped.

Today, WV Independence Hall has been authenticallyrestored, and includes such exhibits as “Waving forLiberty and the Union,” a display of West Virginia’sCivil War battle flags. Historical Figure tours are offered

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Steeped in History, Wheeling is West Virginia’s

“Friendly City”

for the full experience.Following your tour through history, be sure to stop

by Wheeling Heritage Port where you marvel at theWheeling Suspension bridge, part of US NationalRoad. The 1010-foot, single-span bridge opened in1849, predating the Civil War. Upon opening, it wasthe longest suspension bridge in the world and the firstbridge to cross the Ohio River. Considered the origi-nal “Gateway to the West,” it served as a model for lat-er projects, including the Brooklyn Bridge and SanFrancisco’s Golden Gate Bridge. The Wheeling

Suspension Bridge is still in operation to this day forvehicle and pedestrian traffic, so be sure to include it onyour trip through history.

You will want to experience North Wheeling, alsoknown as Victorian Olde Town. Here, tour the “CrownJewel” of Victorian Wheeling: 1892’s Eckhart House.Along with the tour, you will also enjoy a lovely teaexperience including gourmet tea and assorted confec-tions, and shopping in the unique gift shoppe.

Your next stop will take you the Wheeling ArtisanCenter, a renovated industrial building with a three-storyatrium in the heart of Downtown.

Following lunch at River City (1st Floor), discoverretail shopping at The Emporium (2nd Floor) showcas-ing the best of West Virginia and regional artisans plus alarge selection of the state’s food products. While shop-ping, take note of the “Made in Wheeling” exhibits,highlighting Wheeling’s rich industrial heritage. TheLoft Gallery (3rd Floor) hosts a rotating exhibit by localartisans.

From the Wheeling Artisan Center, travel to whatlocals consider to be Wheeling’s cultural district, CenterWheeling, home to Centre Market. Built in 1853, theUpper Market House is the oldest market house in thecountry. The Lower Market House, added in 1891, is

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Wheeling’s scenic riverfront locationalong the banks of the Ohio River.

Photos courtesy Visit Wheeling.

home to Coleman’s Fish Market - aWheeling institution for 100 years.

Centre Market continues to oper-ate as it did when it opened over 150years ago, with all locally-ownedshops, restaurants, boutiques liningthe halls of both Markets. The dis-trict has since expanded and includesshops, restaurants, and other busi-nesses in the Victorian buildings inthe surrounding the area.

End your tour of historic Wheelingwith a show at Wheeling’s historic1929 Capitol Theatre. For manyyears, it was home to the WheelingJamboree and Jamboree USA, oncethe 2nd longest running radio showin the USA.

Since its opening, it has been hometo the Wheeling SymphonyOrchestra, which is currently in its36 • Byways North Wheeli

Olde Town. P

Wheeling’s historic1929 Capitol Theatre.

85th season. After being purchased by the Wheeling-Ohio County Convention & Visitors Bureau in 2009, theTheatre went through a long list of renovations, includ-ing all new seating and its first elevator. Along with theSymphony, the Capitol also hosts an annual BroadwaySeason and national-touring acts and tours, from theAvett Brothers to Jerry Seinfeld.

From shopping and dining atThe Highlands, to taking a chance

at Wheeling Island Hotel & Casino/Racetrack, to a drivethrough Oglebay Resort's Winter Festival of Lights,there’s never been a better time to experience Wheeling!

Plan your getaway at www.VisitWheelingWV.com orcall 800.828.3097 to request your free 2015Wheeling/Ohio County Visitors Guide.

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Oglebay Resort in Wheeling, WV.

Wheeling’s Island Hotel & Casino/Racetrack.Click for Video

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The main building of the Shelton Winery.Photo Courtesy Visit Winston-Salem.

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Wine Shines in NorthCarolina’s Yadkin Valley

Winston-Salem is the gateway to NorthCarolina’s most popular wineries, located justminutes from the Yadkin Valley -- considered

one of the top-producing wine regions in the EasternU.S.

Spanning more than 1.4 million acres, the YadkinValley is the first American Viticultural Area (AVA) inNorth Carolina (est. 2003) and boasts more than 35 ofthe state’s award-winning wineries.

Shaped like a boomerang, bordering Virginia,Winston-Salem sits in the heart of the picturesqueregion. A thriving, artsy city of more than 250,000 peo-ple, with independent restaurants and a Moravian foodtradition dating back to 1753, Winston-Salem is the per-fect base from which to explore the Yadkin Valleyregion.

Dotted throughout the rolling hills of the YadkinValley, winery tasting rooms are located anywhere fromfive to 45 minutes apart from each other -- depending onyour route -- and provide spectacular countrysidescenery.

The tasting rooms offer styles and atmospheres as dis-tinct as the wineries themselves. From a centuries-oldfarmhouse and open-air tasting room, to an elegant,oversized room and intimate chamber, all offer wonder-ful settings to celebrate the art of winemaking.

Originating in the 16th century, when Sir WalterRaleigh landed on the coast of North Carolina and dis-covered the scuppernong vine, North Carolina’s wine40 • Byways

The grounds of the Childress Winery.Photo courtesy Visit Winston-Salem.

The Childress Winery. Photocourtesy Visit Winston-Salem.

industry was top in the Union by 1840. Starting in 1920,prohibition slowed wine production.

Decades later, Yadkin Valley residents turned theirfarmlands back into vineyards, taking advantage of thearea’s red-clay soil and mild climate. Today, Yadkin

Valley vineyards produceEuropean-vinifera varietalssuch as Cabernet Sauvignon,Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay,Viognier, Merlot and Syrah.At a few select wineries, youcan find Traminette, as wellas Italian varietals such asVermentino, Pinot Grigio,Sangiovese, Montepulciano,Malbec, Petit Verdot and oth-ers.

The sweet, native musca-dine grape with its thick skinand intense fruity aroma alsogrows naturally here. While afew vintners in the YadkinValley market this grape, theregion is gaining a strong rep-utation as an award-winningproduce of European-viniferavarietals.

In addition to traditional winery tours and tastings, vis-itors can enjoy the Yadkin Valley vineyards at two ofNorth Carolina’s biggest annual wine events in Winston-Salem. The North Carolina Wine Festival is held at the

end of May, and Salute! The North Carolina WineCelebration is the first week in June in downtownWinston-Salem.

For information regarding seasonal tours of the YadkinValley, please visit VisitWinstonSalem.com/wine. Tolearn more about customized group tour offerings, con-tact Kay Calzolari, Visit Winston-Salem Group Tour andServices Manager at 336-728-4237 or email her atKay@VisitWinstonSalem.com.

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The Pinot Grigio Harvest.

The main gate of th Shelton Winery.Photo courtesy Visit Winston-Salem.

Click for Video

The Las Vegas MOB Museum

There are two sides to every story -- and then there’sthe truth. The Mob Museum, the NationalMuseum of Organized Crime and Law

Enforcement, is a world-class destination in downtownLas Vegas that presents an exciting and authentic view ofthe Mob’s impact on Las Vegas history and its uniqueimprint on the world.

The Mob Museum is a world-renowned, award-win-ning destination in Las Vegas, attract-ing 500,000

v i s i t o r shailing from all 50 states and

nearly 35 countries in its first two-plus years.

With tales so intriguing they need no embellishment,the Museum reveals an insider’s look at the events andpeople on both sides of this continuing battle. True sto-ries of Mob history are brought to life in a bold and con-temporary style via engaging exhibits and multi-sensoryexperiences. The Mob Museum puts the visitor in themiddle of the action through high-tech theater presenta-tions, iconic, one-of-a-kind artifacts and interactive,themed environments.

The Museum has acquired some of the most iconicartifacts in Mob history including the barber chair AlbertAnastasia was sitting in whenmurdered in

New YorkCity, and the brick wall from the St.

Valentine’s Day Massacre in Chicago in 1929. TheMuseum opened on Valentine’s Day 2012, the 83rdanniversary of the Massacre where seven men affiliatedwith Bugs Moran’s gang were lined up along the wall,

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What’s HappeningWhat’s Happening

Byways • 43

The Tommy Gun Simulator.Photos courtesy The Mob Museum.

Click for Video

shot and killed by Al Capone’s South Side Italian gang.Artifacts integrated throughout the Museum’s interac-

tive exhibits provide an insider’s look into many oforganized crime’s biggest names, including Al Capone,Dion O’Bannion, George Moran, Charlie “Lucky”Luciano, Meyer Lansky, Ben Siegel, Sam Giancana, JoeBonanno, Frank Rosenthal, Mickey Cohen, Tony

Cornero, Whitey Bulger and John Gotti to name just afew. The Museum is located in what many consider theultimate artifact, the former federal courthouse andUnited States Post Office. Completed in 1933 and listedon the Nevada and National Registers of Historic Places,it houses the courtroom where in 1950 one of 14 nation-al Kefauver hearings was held to expose organized crime

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The courtroom where in 1950 one of 14 national Kefauver hearings was held toexpose organized crime in America. Photos courtesy The Mob Museum.

in America. Meticulously rehabilitated forThe Mob Museum, the building is significantnot only for its neo-classical architecture rem-iniscent of the period in which it was built, butalso for the historic events that unfolded insideof it.

In addition, items and artifacts relating tolaw enforcement’s role in helping to eradicateand control the Mob, such as weapons, wire-tapping tools and tactics and crime scene pho-tos, are also shown.

The Mob Museum is a modern-day muse-um and offers highly experiential and interac-tive exhibits. Fascinating stories are broughtto life through one-of-a-kind artifacts, interac-tive touch screens and unique ways to engagewith law enforcement and organized crime.

For example, visitors can “shoot” a simulat-ed Tommy gun, listen to real FBI surveillancetapes on wiretapping equipment and take partin FBI weapons training.

For more information, call (702-229-2734or online at www.TheMobMuseum.org.www.Facebook.com/TheMobMuseum, orTwitter: @TheMobMuseum.

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The Wiretap Room.

Hot Springs FordyceBathhouse Turns 100

The Fordyce on Bathhouse Row in Hot SpringsNational Park in Arkansas turns 100 this year.Bathhouse Row is a National Historic Landmark

District and eight picturesque and historic bathhouses arelocated there, including the Fordyce, which serves as thepark’s visitor center.

The Fordyce opened March 1, 1915. Owner ColonelSamuel Fordyce spent over $200,000 dollars to build thefacility, which became known as the most luxuriousbathhouse in the city at the time and a beacon of prestigein town. President Franklin D. Roosevelt visited theFordyce in 1936 when he came to Hot Springs to cele-brate the Arkansas Centennial.

The Fordyce closed in 1962 and remained vacant untilits reopening as the park’s visitor center in the late 1980s.Located in the middle of Bathhouse Row, the Fordycetoday has exhibits on the thermal bathing industry. Via aself-guided or guided jaunt, you can check out the manydifferent rooms, which appear as they did during theFordyce’s prime.

“Samuel Fordyce, the owner and operator, wanted hisbathhouse to be the leader in modern technologies ofthermal water treatments,” said Nalissala L. Allen, parkguide at Hot Springs National Park. “He spared noexpense in building the Fordyce, from the mosaic tilefloors and Carrara Italian Marble walls to the stainedglass skylights in the men’s bath hall and assembly room.Samuel wanted the Fordyce to be a testimony for hisown health and well-being. He wanted the bathhouse toreflect how the thermal water had healed him.”

Allen, who has been a guide at the park for five years,said when visiting the Fordyce that seeing the first andthird floors are a must, especially if you are short ontime. “The first floor is the bath halls for men andwomen, as well as the hydrotherapy room,” she said.“Here is where most people can imagine how and whythe early settlers came here. On the third floor [at thegymnasium] you can learn about how, as a society, wehave changed our perception of physical fitness. Theassembly room is where men and women came togetherto socialize with one another, by playing a friendly gameof cards or billiards, singing a song around the Knablepiano or just sitting and enjoying a nice conversationwith someone.”

Allen added that the Fordyce, which is located at 369Central Avenue, also offers a 15-minute movie about the

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The Fordyce Bathhouse in Hot Springs. Photo courtesyArkansas Department of Parks & Tourism.

park’s history and geology and there is a 9-minutebathing video that shows the traditional bath routine inone of the operating bathhouses.

“The Fordyce is a window into our past,” said Allen.“Here we can see the history of our culture and modernmedicine. It is a great place to spend the day and imag-ine how things were back in that time. You can do eithera self-guided or guided tour. Watch the movie and thevideo or just relax and sit down in one of the rockingchairs on the front porch and watch the day go by. Peoplehave been coming to the Fordyce for many years. Afteryou take a look around, you will see why it was consid-ered to be the best.”

Along with the 100th anniversary of the Fordyce,overall there is positive momentum taking place onBathhouse Row. The Superior Bathhouse Brewery andDistillery now makes its own brew on site and is theworld’s only brewery and distillery using thermal springwater as the main ingredient. Two facilities still operatein their original capacity as bathhouses.

The park’s objective is to open all the buildings to thepublic. “Most of the bathhouses will open as adaptivereuse,” said Allen. “This means the bathhouses may notbe used to provide baths or spa services, but will be usedin other ways, such as the current brewery and OzarkBathhouse Cultural Center. At present the park is negoti-

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The Fordyce Reading Room. Above, a typical FordyceBath. Photos courtesy Library of Congress.

ating a lease for the Hale, and the Friends of Hot SpringsNational Park are raising the necessary funds to repairthe Maurice for investment by a future lessee.”

When touring Bathhouse Row, Allen said visitorsshould be sure to see the park’s namesake attraction.“The thermal water is the reason why the park was setaside,” said Allen. “The springs in Hot Springs NationalPark were the first, and continue to be, the only federal-ly controlled hot springs in the United States to be man-aged for both public health and consumptive use.

Hot Springs National Park is the only unit of thenational park system that is mandated to give away itsprimary natural resource to the general public in anunending and unaltered state.” Allen said to note thatthese are not thermal springs that you can jump into.“The springs are 143 degrees (F) and they are hot,” shesaid.

Thermal springs occur elsewhere in the U.S., particu-

larly where there has been recent volcanic activity. Thewater of Hot Springs National Park, however, is rare,especially in the central part of the continent. “An unusu-al set of geologic conditions of the Ouachita Mountainshas created and maintained the flow of hot waters here ina small valley in central Arkansas,” said Allen.

Allen said along with Bathhouse Row, the nationalpark is home to 5,500 acres to explore including over 25miles of hiking trails that lead to scenic vistas and to des-tinations like the Hot Springs Mountain Tower, whichoffers an aerial view of downtown Hot Springs and thesurrounding Ouachita National Forest.

For more details on Hot Springs National Park, visitNPS.gov/hosp.

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Typical men’s bath. Photo courtesy Library of Congress.

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Byways is published bi-monthly by Byways, Inc. and distributed electronically throughout North America.Byways is emailed to more than 4000 tour operators plus selected travel agencies through the internet. Subscriptionsare complimentary. An iPad & iPhone version is available for consumers in iTunes and Newsstand in the App Store.

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50 • Byways

Observatory at Top of One World TradeCenter Provides Unparalleled PanoramicViews of New York City

One World Observatory is at the top of One World TradeCenter, the tallest building in the Western Hemisphere.Photo courtesy One World Observatory.

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Click for Video

Positioned on top of the tallest building in theWestern Hemisphere -- on levels 100, 101, and 102of the One World Trade Center building -- One

World Observatory provides guests with unique,panoramic views of New York City, its most iconic sites,and surrounding waters from above 1,250 feet.

One World Observatory opens the last week in May.A customized guest experience complements the

seemingly endless views, which evoke feelings of theCity’s signature pride, hope and determination -- andinclude exhibits and dining options, including a sit-downrestaurant.

The experience invites guests to explore all three lev-els, each equipped with the latest in innovative technol-ogy. Upon entry, guests are greeted in the GlobalWelcome Center, where a large video board featuressalutations in an array of languages, and a dynamicallygenerated world map will highlight the hometowns ofvisitors.

Guests then proceed to a pre-show program, titledVoices, which tells the personal stories of the men andwomen who built One World Trade Center, andFoundations, which displays facts about the verybedrock on which the building stands.

Visitors board one of five dedicated elevators, termedSky Pods, to ascend to the 102nd floor in under 60 sec-onds. Immersive, floor-to-ceiling LED technology ineach cab invites guests to experience a virtual time-lapsethat recreates the development of New York City’s sky-line from the 1600s to present day.

The Sky Pod elevators, among the fastest in the world,bring passengers directly to the See ForeverTM Theateron the 102nd floor. The See ForeverTM Theater presentsa two-minute video presentation that combines bird’seye imagery, time-lapse shots with abstract textures andpatterns to present the unique rhythm and pulse of NewYork City to dramatic life in three dimensions.

The Main Observatory space on the 100th floorincludes an interactive skyline “concierge” -- City Pulse-- that allows guests to deeply connect with the land-marks and neighborhoods they observe from above.

At City Pulse, global ambassadors are stationed undera ring of HD video monitors and outfitted in gesturerecognition technology, summoning imagery to thescreens and providing guests with close-up views andpersonalized recommendations.

The Main Observatory also features the Sky Portalwhere guests are invited to step onto a 14- foot wide cir-cular disc that will deliver an unforgettable view, usingreal-time, high-definition footage of the streets below.

Special discounts are offered to active and retiredmembers of the U.S. military.

Special group rates, for 20 or more, are also availableto travel professionals, corporate groups, organizations,schools and camps. Submit your inquiry online atwww.OneWorldObservatory.com/groups.

For more information on tickets, please visitwww.OneWorldObservatory.com.

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One World Observatory is located at the topof One World Trade Center in New York City.Photo courtesy One World Observatory.

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