The Ilyushin IL-2 Sturmovik (Cyrillic Илью́шин Ил-2) was re-garded as the best ground-attack aircraft in the SecondWorld War. Produced by the Soviet Union in very large num-bers, it was the single most produced military aircraft designin all of aviation history. Over 42,000 aircraft were producedin various models. It was a prominent aircraft for tank killingwith its accuracy in dive bombing and guns that were able topenetrate tanks' thin top armor.

To IL-2 pilots, the aircraft was simply the diminutive "Ilyusha".To the soldiers on the ground, it was the "Hunchback", the"Flying Tank" or the "Flying Infantryman". It’s postwar NATOreporting name was "Bark". The IL-2 aircraft played a crucialrole on the Eastern Front.

The IL-2 is a single-engine, propeller-driven, low-wing mono-plane of mixed construction with a crew of two (some versionwere single seat), specially designed for assault operations.Its most notable feature was the inclusion of armor in an air-frame load-bearing scheme. Armor plates replaced the frameand paneling throughout the nacelle and middle part of thefuselage, and an armored hull made of riveted armor steelsecured the aircraft’s engine, cockpit, water and oil radiators,and fuel tanks.

Production early in the war was slow because after the Ger-man invasion, the aircraft factories near Moscow and othermajor cities in western Russia had to be moved east of theUral Mountains. Ilyushin and his engineers had time to re-consider production methods, and two months after themove IL-2s were again being produced.

Heavy losses to enemy fighters forced the reintroduction of arear gunner; early IL-2s were field modified by cutting a holein the fuselage behind the cockpit for a gunner sitting on acanvas sling armed with a 12.7 mm UBT machine gun in an

improvised mounting. The semi-turret gun mount allowed themachine gun to be fired at angles of up to 35°. Thesechanges added weight and made the 2 seat version of theIL-2 slower and more difficult to handle than the single seatversion.

The final production version of the IL-2 used a 1,254 kW(1,680 hp) Mikulin AM-38 engine. Armament consisted ofRS-82 and RS-132 rockets which could destroy armored ve-hicles with a single hit. They were so inaccurate that experi-enced Il-2 pilots mainly utilized the 23mm cannon. Anotherpotent weapon of the Il-2s was the PTAB shaped chargebomblets. Up to 192 were carried in four external dispensers(cluster bombs) or up to 220 in the internal weapon bays.

Specifications:

Wingspan: 71.87”Length: 58.36”Wing Area: 978 Sq. In.Finished Weight: 9-12 lbs

Skyshark R/C Corporation75 Mid Cape Terrace, Ste 7

Cape Coral, FL 33991, U.S.A.

Website: www.skysharkrc.comEmail: cservice@skysharkrc.com

Thank you for purchasing the Sturmovik IL-2 from Skyshark

R/C. For the first time, R/C enthusiasts have a choice in scale

aircraft designs. Our goal, through computer technology and

state-of-the-art production techniques, is to offer aircraft which

in the past have not been modeled simply because they

weren’t popular enough to justify mass production. Our pro-

duction techniques allow us to produce aircraft which, though

not as popular and well known as P-51s and P-47s, still offer

historical significance (good or bad!), Good looks and flying

characteristics, and a uniqueness that is sure to turn heads

wherever you take your airplane!

CAD Design

CAD design allows strength to be built into the airplane without

sacrificing weight. Accurate parts design and placement en-

sures a perfect fit.

CAD Drawn Plans

The plans in this kit are not copied from a master set! They

are originals drawn directly from the CAD program where the

airplane was designed. We do this because it allows us to use

color, which helps you better visualize the various components

of the airplane, and we can use better quality paper, which

greatly reduces the possibility of shrinkage. Since you’re

going to build directly on the plans, they ought to be the

proper size! Also, parts placement is guaranteed to be accu-

rate, so you can build a better, straighter model.

Laser Cut Parts

The same program that generates the design and plans also

drives the laser, so every part is reproduced exactly as it was

designed. Laser cutting also allows us to fit more parts on

each sheet of wood, reducing the waste, and lowering the cost

to you. Since laser cutting does not have the same limitations

that mechanical cutters do, small and hard-to-produce parts

are simply a computer file away, so you get a more accurate

airplane.

Plastics and Fiberglass

The cowl is accurately reproduced in fiberglass. The canopy

and gear pods are accurately reproduced in clear plastic. The

scale exhaust stacks are molded from tough ABS plastic.

Engine Options

Engine choices range from .61 to .91 2-strokes, or .91 to 1.20

4-strokes. The sliding firewall design allows you to easily po-

sition your choice of engine and guarantees perfect alignment

every time.

Electric Option

We offer an electric conversion pack. This pack contains all

the parts required to make a battery hatch and firewall design

for brushless outrunner motors and lithium polymer batteries.

Please visit our website for availability and ordering informa-

tion.

There are many different options when it comes to electric mo-

tors. We used our Lightning 75 outrunner with a 6 cell

5000mAh lipo battery on our prototype. Anything in the range

of 1000+ watts will be more than adequate for this airframe.

You should contact your favorite electric supplier for the

proper power package.

Gear & Retract Options

Gear location has been modified from scale because of the

wing spar location and the thickness of the wing. We have

slightly modified the gear pods to reflect this change and cre-

ate a scale appearance when the gear is retracted. Retract in-

stallation is shown on the plans and explained in these

instructions for any electric or air operated 90 degree retracts.

You will notice that fixed gear is not presented as an option.

So many people install retracts, we felt that not designing the

standard fixed gear mounts gave us much more flexibility in

design.

Servo Choices

There are many different servos available in all sizes and

torque ranges. The Sturmovik was designed to use standard

size servos in the 50 or more oz. in. range. Servo sizes can be

changed by the builder as long as they have a torque rating

of at least 50 oz.

Flaps

Flap on the Sturmovik have been modified from scale so they

could easily be made fully functional. All the servo reinforce-

ments are included in the kit, as well as instructions of how to

build and actuate the flaps.

Cockpit Detail

A fully detailed, fully researched laser cut and engraved cock-

pit is included in the kit. In fact, the cockpit is built along with

the fuselage and many of the parts are structural members of

the fuselage.

Center of Gravity:

Turn the plane upside down and balance 6.8” from the lead-

ing edge at the wing fillet.

Control Throws:

Ailerons: 1/2” up and down

Elevator: 5/8” up, 1/2” down

Rudder: 1-1/4” left & right

Flaps: Up to 2” down

Kit contents:Laser-cut wood pack

Sheeting wood

Stick wood

Vacu-formed canopy

Vacu-formed gear covers

Vacu-formed Exhaust stacks (2)

Tail gear wire

Full color plan set

Fiberglass cowl

Instruction manual

F50 firewall (glow only)

Items needed to complete your Sturmovik6 channel radio system minimum

8 standard 50+ oz. servos (7 for electric)

3-1/4” Spinner

Prop (ground clearance for 18” or less)

4” Main wheels

2” Tail wheel

12” servo extensions (4)

Reversing Y harness for flaps (not required if you are using

separate channels in your radio)

Retractable gear:

Robart 510W1, 510RS, 550RS

E-Flite EFLG400

.61-.91 2-stroke engine

.91 - 1.20 4-stroke engine

Electric Version:

Skyshark 75 brushless motor

OS 70 amp speed controller

6 cell, 5000mAh Lipo battery

5-10A BEC or receiver battery

12oz. glow fuel tank

Glow fuel tubing

1000mAh receiver battery

3/16” Wheel collars (main gear)

3/32” Wheel collars (tail gear)

3/32” or 1/8” steering arm (if using 1/8” you will need a small

piece of 1/8” brass tubing)

Sullivan #503 Gold-N-Rods (2 pkgs)

2-56 pushrods

2-56 clevises

3/32” wheel collars (2 ea.)

Your choice of hinges

Covering material (3 rolls film covering or 3 yards of

fabric/fiberglass)

Testors Model Master paints for cockpit

Paint for flaps

Thin, Medium & Thick CA glue

5 min & 30 min Epoxy

Waxed paper

Hobby knives

Razor saw

Sanding bars in various lengths

80, 120, 220 grit sandpaper

General Building Information

The Sturmovik can be built by a person with average building

skills. Certain steps in the building process must be followed

as depicted, or you might find yourself digging back into the

structure to redo something. These areas are outlined when

necessary.

There are a few areas that may be considered advanced con-

struction techniques, such as strip planking, but what we’ve

done to simplify this are things like laser cutting the planks!

The fuselage has some compound curves and can be sheeted

in one piece but you can also create your own strip planks in

those areas if it is easier for you.

Occasionally hints will be included at certain building steps.

These are not required for completion, rather they are tips in-

tended to ease a particular process.

Photos in this manual are taken from numerous builds as

changes were being made, so some of the parts may not

match your part exactly. The photos are for reference only and

variations will not affect your build.

The laser does not cut through the wood, it burns its way

through. As a result of this, occasionally there will be scorch-

ing on the surface of the wood. This is normal, and is only a

surface discoloration, and does not affect the wood in any

other way. Similarly, the laser settings are optimized for wood

density averages, so occasionally, due to variations even in

individual sheets, some areas might not cut through com-

pletely. This is apparent mainly with the plywood or harder

balsa. Simply use care in removing the parts from the sheets;

most of the time, the parts will literally fall out of the sheets!

Hardware and a motor mount are not included in the kit. There

are so many choices for quality hardware that these choices

are left to the individual preferences of the builder, rather than

include something in the kit that you’ll probably throw away

anyway. A vibration-dampening motor mount is recom-

mended for use regardless of engine choice, so select a

mount suited to your particular engine.

This aircraft is not a toy. It must be flown in a responsible man-

ner according to the rules set forth by the Academy of Model

Aeronautics. The builder assumes the responsibility for the

proper assembly and operation of this product. Skyshark R/C

shall have no liability whatsoever, implied or expressed, arising

out of the intentional or unintentional neglect, misuse, abuse,

or abnormal usage of this product. Skyshark R/C shall have

no liability whatsoever arising from the improper or wrongful

assembly of the product nor shall it have any liability due to

the improper or wrongful use of the assembled product.

Skyshark R/C shall have no liability for any and all additions,

alterations, and modifications of this product.

Having said that mouthful, turn the page and start building the

best airplane on the market!

Ailerons:Assembly of the Ailerons, Elevators and Rudder can be done

with thin CA for clean, lightweight construction.

Slide A3 - A11 into the slots in A1. Glue in place with thin CA.Glue A2 to the end of A1 (make sure it is square). Glue A12to the opposite end of A1 insuring it is square. Repeat for the other aileron.

Center the aileron assembly on A13 as shown and glue inplace.

Align and glue A14 to A1, A2, A3 & A4 as shown. Repeat forthe other aileron.

Sand A13 to match the contour of the ribs.

Elevators:

Slide E3-E11 into the slots in E1. Glue in place with thin CA.Glue E2 to the end of E1 (make sure it is square).

Repeat for the other elevator.

Align the elevator assembly on E12 and glue in place makingsure that E2 is flush with the large end of E12.

Align and E13 to E12 as shown. Bevel the end of E13 so itfits flush with E12. Glue to E12 and the elevator assembly.

Align E14 to E2, E3, E4 & E5 as shown. Glue in place.

Rudder:

Align & glue R2 to R1 as shown.

Align R3 - R9 to the slots in R1 and glue in place. Insure thatR3 is perfectly straight.

Center the rudder assembly on R10 and glue as shown

Align and glue R11 to R1, R3, R4 & R5

Horizontal Stab:

Pin S1 thru S8 in place on the plans

Slide S12 into the slots on S1-S8. Repeat for the other half ofthe stab

Insert S9 onto the slots on the back of S1-S8

Insert S11 into the slots in the front of S3-S8. Note the direc-tion of S11. It should butt up to S2.

Insert S10 into the slots in the front of S1's & S2's. Repeat forthe other half.

Double check the alignment and glue S9, S11 & S12 inplace. Glue S9 to the back of the rib only, glue S11 & S12 tothe front of the rib only.

Glue the two S12's together at the center.

Break off the front and rear tabs on S1-S8 as shown

Cut four 21" pieces from two 1/16” x 4” x 48” balsa sheets

Edge glue two 21" sheet together and edge glue the remain-ing 6" sheet to the top sheet as shown. Make two sheets(one for top and one for bottom).

Sheet the top of the stab. Once dry, remove from the buildingboard and trim the edges as shown.

Break the tabs off S1-S8. Don't worry if the stab is a littlewarped because the jigs used in the next step will insure it isstraight.

Align the S8 jig over S8 on the plans and pin in place. Do thesame with the remaining S8, S5 & S2 jigs.

Rest the stab on the jigs and adjust their position to fit thestab if necessary. Pin the stab assembly to the jigs.

Align and glue S14 to the outside of S1 as shown. Repeat forthe other S14

Option: If you are going to use hinges other than CA, now isthe time to add hinge reinforcement blocks to the stab.

Measure and cut two slots in the top sheeting for the S14pieces.

Sheet the top of the stab with the sheeting piece made in theprevious steps.

Remove from building board and trim edges as shown.

Cut a piece of 1/4” x 3/8” x 36” balsa stock to 4". Align andglue to S10.

Cut two pieces of 1/4” x 3/8” to 9-1/2" and bevel one end tomatch the plans. Glue to S11 on each side. Cut the end flushwith S8.

Glue two S13's together to create a 1/2" thick piece. Repeatfor the other two.

Glue the S13 assemblies to the stab as shown.

Sand the S13 piece flush with the stab and round the leadingedge.

Right Wing Panel:

Glue a W2A to each side of W2 as shown. You will make twoW2 ribs total.

Glue W2B to each W2A. This will create a pocket for thewing dowel. Repeat for the other W2.

Use 5 min epoxy to glue W6A to W6. Make a left and right

Epoxy W8A to W8. Make a left & right

Epoxy W9A to W9. Make a left & right

Epoxy W13A to W13. Make a left & right

Install servos in both W9 and W13

Cut a piece of 1/4” x 1/4” x 36” to 10".

Align and glue the piece to the bottom of W19 as shown.Thetabs on W19 should extend below the spar piece.

Pin this assembly to the building board.

Align and fit W2 thru W8 to the slots in W19. DO NOT GLUEYET!

Fit W20 in the slot in W19, W8, W7 & W6. DO NOT GLUEYET!

Align the other piece of 1/4” x 1/4” balsa to the plans andmark it's location on W20. The 1/4” spar should butt upagainst the spar that is already mounted on W19.

Remove W20 and the balsa spar. Glue the spar to the bot-tom of W20 as shown. Make sure that your marks line up.

Align the W20 assembly to the building board again and ad-just for a good fit in W19. Pin in place.

Insert W9-W12 in W20. DO NOT GLUE YET!

Fit W21 into the slots in W3 thru W12

Pin W2 & W3 securely to the board. Align & glue W26 &W27 to W1, W2 & W3. You may need to lift the TE of W1slightly to match the angle of W26/W27.

Glue W2 thru W12 in place. Glue W21 in place.

Cut a piece of 1/4” x 1/4” x 36” to 10". Insert into ribs W2 thruW8.

Glue all spars and ribs from W1 to W8 in place.

Glue W28 in place in the slot in front of W6 thru W9

Align and glue W13 - W18 to the bottom spar. Make sure thespar is fully seated in the rib slot.

Align and glue the remaining 1/4” x 1/4” spar to W8 thru W18and glue the remaining ribs in place.

Center W22 to W12 - W18 and glue in place as shown.

Cut a 2-3/8" piece of 3/8" x 1" x 36" balsa stock.

Add a piece of scrap 1/16" balsa to each side to make it 1-1/8" tall. Bevel on one end to match the angle of the leadingedge piece on the right wing half. Center the piece to ribsW1-W3 and glue in place.

Cut a 7-3/4" piece of 3/8" x 1" balsa stock. Bevel the end tomatch the previous piece. Align and glue to W3 thru W8.

Bevel the remaining 3/8" x 1" balsa piece to match the previ-ous one. Align and glue to W8 thru W18.

Add reinforcements for hinges along the flap and aileronarea.

Sand W22 to match the camber of ribs W12 thru W18.

Lightly sand the ribs to get rid of any high spots and preparefor sheeting.

Attach servo extensions and guide wires through the holes inW12 thru W1. Make sure to secure your servo extensionswith glue, tape or shrink tubing.

Note: You will need to route the retract, flap and aileron

wires close to the leading edge of the wing so they come

out of the wing about 1” back from where the leading

edge meets the fuselage. This will keep the wires from

getting tangled with the elevator and rudder servo.

Assemble W30 to the W31's as shown. fit the assembly ontothe W19 spar and W9 rib. Epoxy in place.

Cut & edge glue five 1/16" x 4" x 36" balsa sheets as shownto make the top and bottom sheeting. You can Make 4 at thistime for the remaining wing sheets.

Sheet the top of the wing by starting at the leading edge andworking your way to the tailing edge.

Note: When sheeting the wing with 1/16” balsa, try to do

most of the sanding before glueing the sheeting in place.

This will keep your airframe smooth. Also, try and

choose harder balsa for the center of the wing and softer

on the edges.

Remove the wing from building board, turn over and breaktabs off of the wing ribs.

Lay the 1/8" Ply flap and W25 in place on the wing as shown.Draw a line at the edge of these pieces on the top sheet.

Measure .55" from W26 and draw a line as shown.

Cut the top sheeting along the line that you drew in the previ-ous steps.

Trim the rest of the sheeting as shown.

Create sheer webs from scrap 1/16" balsa. Insure the grainruns from top to bottom - not left to right.Glue shear webs tothe spars between W13 & W18.

Use a 1/8" x 1/4" x 36" balsa stringer to make the servohatch supports between W13 - W14 and W9 - W10

Sand the tabs off the bottom of W19 & W20 on the right winghalf only.

Lightly sand the other ribs and spars to prepare the bottomwing for sheeting.

AIR RETRACTS** Run the air lines at this time from the re-tract location to the retract servo location on the wing.

ELECTRIC RETRACTS** Run retract extensions though theholes in W1- W6 and tape in place to keep them from mov-ing. They will be run to the same location as your aileron andflap servos.

Mark the location of the wing dowel in the leading edge asshown

Sheet the bottom of the wing using the same method as thetop. DO NOT Glue the sheeting to the flap area.

Place W25 and the ply flap in their correct location and drawa line around the flap. Cut the sheeting away along that line.Depending on your rib alignment, you may need to sand theflap to fit.

Finish sanding the sheeting even with W22, W18 and W1

Left Wing Panel:

Cut a piece of 1/4 x 1/4 x 36 to 10"

Align and glue the piece to the bottom of W19 as shown.Thetabs on W19 should extend below the spar piece.

Pin this assembly to the building board. You may need to puta block of wood under the right wing tip for support.

Align and Fit W3 thru W8 to W19. DO NOT GLUE YET!

** AIR RETRACTS: Slide W23 servo tray in the slots in W1 &W2. Align with the plans and glue in place.

**AIR RETRACTS: Insert the air tank into the holes in thefront of W3-W5 at this time.

Fit W20 in the slot in W19, W8, W7 & W6. DO NOT GLUEYET!

Align the other piece of 1/4” x 1/4” balsa to the plans andmark it's location on W20.

Remove W20 and the balsa spar. Glue the spar to the bot-tom of W20 as shown. Make sure that your marks line up.

Align the W20 assembly to the building board again and ad-just for a good fit in W19.

Insert W9-W12 in W20. DO NOT GLUE YET!

Fit W21 into the slots in W3 thru W12

Pin W2 & W3 securely to the board. Align & glue W26 & W27to W1, W2 & W3. You may need to lift the TE of W1 slightlyto match the angle of W26/W27.

Glue W2 thru W12 in place. Glue W21 in place.

Cut a piece of 1/4” x 1/4” x 36” to 10". Insert into ribs W2 thruW8.

Glue all spars and ribs from W1 to W8 in place.

Align and glue W13 - W18 to the bottom spar. Make sure thespar is fully seated in the rib slot.

Align and glue the remaining 1/4” x 1/4” spar to W8 thru W18and glue the remaining ribs in place.

Glue W28 in place in the slot in front of W6 thru W9. Youshould use 5 min epoxy for this step since it is part of the re-

tract mount.

Cut a 2-3/8" piece of 3/8" x 1" x 36" balsa stock.

Add a piece of scrap 1/16" balsa to each side to make it 1-1/8" tall. Bevel on side to match the angle of the leadingedge piece on the right wing half. Center the piece to ribsW1-W3 and glue in place

Cut a 7-3/4" piece of 3/8" x 1" balsa stock. Bevel the end tomatch the previous piece. Align and glue to W3 thru W8.

Bevel the remaining 3/8" x 1" balsa piece to match the previ-ous one. Align and glue to W8 thru W18.

Align and glue W22 to W12 - W18 as shown.

Add reinforcements for hinges along the flap and aileronarea.

Sand W22 to match the camber of ribs W12 thru W18.

Lightly sand the ribs to get rid of any high spots and preparefor sheeting.

Attach servo extensions and guide wires through the holes inW12 thru W1. Make sure to secure your servo extensionswith glue, tape or shrink tubing. Route your extensions to ap-prox 1” behind the leading edge of the wing.

Assemble W30 to the W31's as shown. fit the assembly ontothe W19 spar and W9 rib. Epoxy in place.

Cut small pieces of 1/4" x 1/4" balsa and glue to W1 at thetop of the rib but below the sheeting line as shown. This willoffer a base for the left wing sheeting.

Use your sheeing you made before to sheet the top of thewing as shown.

Remove the wing from building board, turn over and breaktabs off of the wing ribs.

Lay the 1/8" Ply flap and W25 in place on the wing as shown.Draw a line at the edge of these pieces on the top sheet.

Measure .55" from W26 and draw a line as shown.

Cut the top sheeting along the line that you drew in the previ-ous steps.

Trim the rest of the sheeting as shown.

Create sheer webs from scrap 1/16" balsa. Insure the grainruns from top to bottom - not left to right.Glue shear webs tothe spars between W13 & W18.

Use a 1/8" x 1/4" x 36" balsa stringer to make the servohatch supports between W13 - W14 and W9 - W10

Sand the tabs off the bottom of W19 & W20.

Lightly sand the other ribs and spars to prepare the bottomwing for sheeting.

** AIR RETRACTS: Run your airlines from the retract bay tothe wing center at this time.

ELECTRIC RETRACTS** Run retract extensions though theholes in W1- W6 and tape in place to keep them from mov-ing.

Mark the location of the wing dowel in the leading edge asshown.

Sheet the bottom of the wing. DO NOT Glue the sheeting tothe flap area.

Place W25 and the ply flap in their correct location and drawa line around the flap. Cut the sheeting away along that line.Depending on your rib alignment, you may need to sand theflap to fit.

Finish sanding the sheeting even with W22, W18 and W1

Drill two 1/4" holes at the marked location on the leadingedge of the wing. Cut a 6" 1/4" hardwood dowel in half andtest fit in the holes. Remove the dowels for now.

Shape the leading edge of the wing to a round shape.

Fit the aileron into place and align and mark the location ofeach wingtip. The wingtip should mount .155” from aft of theleading edge. The LE will then be sanded to meet the tip.

Glue the wingtip into place and sand to the shape of thewing. Round the outer edges of the wingtip.

Fit the flap into place along with W25. Remove the flap andglue W25 in place.

FUSELAGE:

Now is the time to decide whether you will be powering yourplane with glow or electric power. If you will be using theelectric conversion pack, follow the instructions for the elec-tric version. Note: Some photos in this area may vary foreach version but the position of the formers are the same.

You will also need to decide if you are using one or two ele-vator servos. If you are using one servo, you can make an el-evator joiner wire from 3/32” music wire according to theplans. This will also give you more room for the throttle servoin the fuselage. If you use 2 elevator servos on a glow pow-ered plane, you will need to mount a mini throttle servo onthe firewall box because there is not much room in the fuse-lage.

NOTE: Be very careful and use a square to insure the first 12formers are square with the building table. If these parts arenot aligned with the plans and square, other parts such asthe cockpit and firewall box will not fit correctly.

Glue F22A and F22B together as shown (make 2)

Pin the F22 assembly in place over the plans and glue F1Aas shown. (Electric version: Glue F1AE in place of F1A)

Glue F2A thru F5A in place (Electric version: Glue F2AE thruF5AE in place of F2A - F5A)

Align and glue F6A & F7A in place.

Align F8A so the rivet details face forward and glue in place

Align F9A so the rivet details face rearward and glue in place

Align and glue F10A thru F18A. Note: there is no F11A!

Cut a piece of 1/4" x 1/4" balsa to fit to top slot in F1A thruF6A. Glue in place.

**Electric Only** Fit a piece of 1/4" x 1/4" balsa in the top

slots of F1AE & F2AE. Also F5AE and F6A.Glue in place.

Cut and fit a piece of 1/4" x 1/4" balsa from F12A thru F18A.Glue in place.

Fit and glue a piece of 1/4" x 1/8" x 36" balsa stringer into thebottom slots on each side of F1A thru F18A. Do not glue tothe removable center parts on F7A & F10A.

**Electric Only** Cut two pieces of 1/4" x 3/8" balsa to 6-

1/2" and glue in place in the slots in F1AE thru F5AE.

Cut 2 pieces of 1/4" x 1/8" balsa to fit between F1A and F10Ain the second slot. Glue a piece in place on each side. Donot glue to the removable center section in F7A & F10A

Fit a piece of 1/4" x 1/8" balsa in the second slot on bothsides of F12A thru F18A as shown.

Glue two pieces of 1/4" x 1/8" balsa in the final slots on F1Athru F6A.

Glue two pieces of 1/4" x 1/8" balsa in the final slots on F12Athru F18A.

Sand stingers flush with the rear of F6A and the front ofF12A.

**Electric Only** Cut the top two 1/4" x 1/8" stringers be-

tween F2AE and F5AE as shown.

Glue the F24's in place between F10A & F12A. They shouldsit flush with the top of both formers.

Trim all stringers even with F18.

Sand the edges of the F24 pieces as shown. This will make iteasier for sheeting. Soak the F24 pieces with thin CA tostrengthen them when sheeting.

Create fuselage sheeting by taking a 1/16" x 4" x 36" andsplitting it in two to create 1/16" x 2" x 36” pieces

Edge glue the piece you just cut to a 1/16" x 4" x 36" sheet.This will create sheeting for one side. Repeat to make a sec-ond sheeting for the other side.

**Electric Only** Glue 1/16" scrap balsa sheeting to a 1/16"

x 4" x 36" balsa sheet as shown to create sheeting.

Align and glue the sheeting to the fuselage crutch. Wet downsheeting with ammonia/water mixture and continue to sheetthe fuselage working both sides evenly.Trim the sheetingaround the cockpit area making sure to keep about 2" ofsheeting aft of F4A. This area will be needed in order to fitthe canopy correctly.

You will probably need to make a few small cuts around theareas with compound curves in order to fit the sheeting.

Trim and sand the sheeting as shown.

**Electric version**

Remove the fuselage from the board and turn upside down.

Cut two pieces of 3/8" x 3/8" Basswood to 4-7/8". Align themto the slots in F3A thru F5A. It should butt against F2A andnot extend past F5A.

Align and glue F1B to F1A, F2B to F2A, F3B to F3A, F4B toF4A and F5B to F5A. Make sure the holes in F5A match thepushrod locations on the plans (the printed number shouldface rearward). F5B must also be exactly straight or thecockpit floor will not align correctly.

Glue F12B in place on F12A

Fit and glue the C1 cockpit floor in the tabs in F5B and F12B.Insure the laser etching is facing down.

Carefully Slide F6B into the first slots in C1. Glue in place asshown to the cockpit floor and the edges of F6A. Make surethe pushrod holes are aligned with the holes in F5B.

Repeat for F7B thru F10B. IMPORTANT: Insure thepushrod holes are on the correct side so the rudder and

elevator pushrods line up correctly.

Fit F11 in the last slot in C1 with the scribed line and numberfacing rearward.

Fit and glue 1/8" x 1/4" x 36" balsa to the bottom slot in F1Bthru F12B. Note the stringer will extend back to F18 but don'tglue past F12B at this time. Do this on both sides of the for-mers.This will be used as the crutch for the lower sheeting soit should not be even with the top sheeting.

Fit F23 to the slots in F3B thru F11. The front of F23 shouldglue to F2B and the top rear should be even with the top ofF11. You may need to adjust some of the notches in the for-mers so the saddle fits without forcing it. Repeat for the otherside.

Glue F13B - F16B in place on F13A - F16A. Make sure thepushrod holes are in the correct position (F13B thru F15Bshould face toward the front).

Glue the 1/4" x 1/8" balsa stringer to the rear fuselage (toF18) making sure to leave a 1/16" space for the sheeting.Trim the stringer at F18.

Attached the horizontal stab assembly to the fuselage by in-terlocking the tabs in the stab supports with the tabs in F17A& F18A. Measure the stab to insure it is straight and tack inplace with thick CA.

Align and glue F17B and F18B in place. You may have to dosome light sanding for a good fit.

Secure the stab to the formers and fuselage using 30 minepoxy. You can also use some tri stock to reinforce the form-ers where they join the stab mounting tabs.

Measure and mark the center of the horizonal stab on thetrailing edge.

Align the centerline on F21 to the mark you made in the hstab and glue F21 in place even with the trailing edge of thestab.

Align the 3/8" x 3/4” tail block so the groove is centered withthe centerline on F21 as shown.

Mark a line around the block and cut away the sheeting onthe horizonal stab. Be sure to only cut the bottom sheeting.

Measure the thickness of your tailwheel control arm. Subtractthat number from 1.3 inches and that will tell you how long tomake the tailgear anchor block. In my build,the steering arm is .3 inches so I will cut my block to about 1inch.

Test fit the block in the hole behind F21. Rest the steeringarm on the block and insure it doesn't stick up past the notchin F21. Once everything fits correctly, use 5 min epoxy toglue the block into place.

HINT: 3/32” steering arms are difficult to find so if you areusing a 1/8” or larger steering arm, you will need to adapt itdown to 3/32”. The easiest way to do this is to cut a smallpiece of 1/8” brass tube and silver solder it into the hole inthe wheel collar on the steering arm. Once it is soldered inplace, use a rotary tool to cut it the same size as the wheelcollar.

Drill a 3/32" hole down though the tail block and into the topsheeting.

Cut a 1-1/2" piece of 1/4" x 1/4" balsa and glue to the topnotches in F1B and F2B as shown.

Cut a 23" piece of 1/4" x 1/4" balsa and glue to F11 thru F21.The top of the stringer should align with the scribed line inF11 as shown.

Slide F19 between the 1/4" spar and the h. stab until it fitstightly. Glue in place. Do the same with F20. Make sure therudder holes are aligned with the hole marked “R” in F18.

Cut along the perforated holes in F6B to fit the pushrods.

Thread the pushrod tubes through the holes in F5B thru F20and glue to the formers.

Fit and glue a piece of 1/4" x 1/8" balsa in the bottom slots ofF1B thru F3B. Glue this piece to F23 also. Repeat for theother side.

Fit and glue a piece of 1/4" x 1/8" balsa in the remaining slotsbetween F1B and F2B.

Slide a 1/4" x 1/8" x 36" balsa stick through the slot in F11and into the slot in F10B and F9B. This stringer should cometo rest on F23. The stringer extends back to F21. You needto cut it at F21 and glue to all formers including F21 as

shown. If it extends out past F21, you can sand it later.

Repeat for the other side.

Fit and glue 1/4" x 1/8" balsa stringers into the remainingslots in F11 thru F21. The stringers should glue to F21 andbe flush with the front of F11.

Sand the stringers so they are flush with F21. This will allowthe sheeting to sit flat against F21.

Drill a 3/32" hole though the sheeting on the top of the h stabthrough the tail gear block and the 1/4" stringer as shown.Apply some thin CA to the hole to harden it.

Cut a hole in the center of F21 as shown to allow the steer-ing arm to align with the tail wire.

Insert the steering arm between the stringers and insert thetail gear through the hole in the stringer, steering arm and tailblock. Approx 3-1/2" should extend out from the top of the HStab.

Align the steering arm with the tail gear and tighten it intoplace. Red thread locking compound is suggested.

Trim the stringers and F21 so the steering arm moves freely.There should be approx 1/2" - 3/4" of movement in the tailgear.

Connect the pushrod and clevis to the steering arm. You willneed to cut away part of the stringer for free movement butyou can do that after the area is sheeted.

Make a 90 degree bend in the tailgear 2” from the top of thehorizonal stab as shown. This bend must be straight with thewheel on the tailgear.

Fit and glue SS1 in place between F11 and F21

Fit and glue SS2, SS3 and SS4 in place as shown. Repeaton the other side of the fuselage.Cut around the pushrodtubes and tail gear as you go.

Fit the F35 wing hold down plate into the slots in F23 andepoxy in place. Use some balsa tri-stock to reinforce asshown.

Sand the sides of the fuselage around the wing saddle andmake sure the F23 wing saddle is flush with all the formers.

Cut a piece a 1/16" x 4" x 36" to 20". Cut another piece to 2"and edge glue it to the first piece. Repeat for the other side.

Sheet the forward part of the fuselage from F1B to F11. Thissheeting will butt up to the top sheeting.

Cut and sand the sheeting to match the wing saddle andF1B, F2B

Vertical Stab:

Align and glue V1 to V2

Align and glue V3-V6 to the scribed lines in the V1,V2 as-sembly.

Turn over and align V3-V6 to the ribs on the opposite sideand glue in place

Glue V7 in place on the top of the stab assembly.

Lightly sand the leading and trailing edges of the stab as-sembly until all ribs are flush.

Align V8 to the trailing edge of the stab assembly and glue inplace.

Align and glue V12 to the leading edge.

Sand the trailing and leading edge to match the contour ofthe ribs.

Insert V9 and V10 in the slots in the bottom of the assembly.Once they are straight, glue in place.

Edge glue scrap 1/16" x 4" balsa to make two 7" x 8" sheets.Unlike the example above, the grain should run vertically.

Align the lower edge of the sheeting with the slots in V9 &V10. Insure the sheeting covers the leading and trailingedge. Trim as necessary and glue in place.

Repeat for the other side.

Sand the edges until they are flush with the stab assembly.

Measure and cut a piece of 1/4" x 3/8" balsa, center and glueto the leading edge. Sand until it is even with V7.

Glue the two V13 pieces together to make them 1/2" wide.Glue this to the top of the stab as shown.

Sand V13 and even with the stab and round the leadingedges of the stab assembly.

Fit V11 to F18A so there is 1/16" edge for the sheeting to buttagainst. You may need to sand the bottom of V11.

Align the stab assembly to the fuse by fitting the tab into theslot in V11 and centering the trailing edge with the tail gearwire. Glue in place

Fit the V14 tail sheeting to the vertical and horizontal stab.Sand as necessary for a good fit. Glue in place with thick CA.

Repeat for the other side.

Sand the sheeting flush with the V stab.

Glue the two V8As together as shown.

File a 3/32” groove along the scribed line in V8A.

Fit the V8A assembly to V8 and the H stab insuring the tailgear moves freely. Glue in place as shown. Note: Do not getany glue on the tail gear! Sand V8A so it is flush with thetrailing edge of the fuselage.

***ELECTRIC ONLY*** Battery Hatch

Cut two 1/4" x 3/8" to 5" and pin to plans

Glue F2C thru F5C to the spars using thick CA. NOTE: F2Cand F5C must be perfectly straight.

Cut a piece of 1/4" x 1/4" balsa and glue to the slots in thetop of F2C - F5C

Cut four 1/8" x 1/4" balsa stringers to 5" and glue to the otherslots in F2C - F5C

Remove from the board and sand the spars on the sides andends so they are even with the formers.

Using scrap 1/16" balsa, sheet the battery hatch. Sand thesheeting even with the formers and spar.

Glue the hatch tabs in place. Align the scribed line on eachtab with the bottom of the hatch.

Break away the interior part of F3C and F4C

Test fit in the fuselage and sand as necessary for a good fit.

Wing Mounting:

Cut two pieces of 1/4" hardwood down to 2-1/2" and taperone end of each.

Insert the dowel in the holes in the leading edge of the wingwith the tapered end facing outward.

Slide F30 over the dowel and adjust the wing holes as nec-essary so F30 fits easily.

Epoxy the dowels into place and use F30 as a guide for thecorrect position. DO NOT GLUE F30!!

Once epoxy has cured, remove F30 and set aside for now.

Fit the wing into the wing saddle and sand as necessary for agood fit.

Measure a line from the wingtips to the tail and center thewing on the fuselage. Mark the location at the trailing edge ofthe wing and fuselage.

Tape the wing in place.

Fit F30 inside the firewall box hole in F2 and over the wingdowels. Epoxy F30 to F2 making sure to keep epoxy off thewing dowels. Allow to cure

Double check the wing centering. Once sure, drill two equallyspaced holes 1-1/2" from the trailing edge into the wing andwing hold down plate for the wing bolts. We used 1/4-20 or10-32 nylon bolts in the prototype.

You can use thin CA to harden the bolt area.

Remove the wing and use a tap to create the proper threadthrough the wing holddown plate. Harden the threads withthin CA.

Align F31 with the top of the F2 former so there is a 1/16"space all around. Glue to the wing leading edge leavingabout 1/16" space between the former and the fuselage.

Mark a line 2-3/4" back from F31 centered on the wing. GlueF33 along that line. Make sure it is parallel to the wing andcentered on the wing using the scribed line as a guide.

Mark a line 5/8" back from F31 centered on the wing. GlueF32 along that line. Make sure it is parallel to the wing andcentered on the wing using the scribed line as a guide.

Use the F34 pieces to sheet the top of F31 - F33

Oil Cooler Assembly:

Glue the F36 pieces to the outside of F38 at a 90 degreeangle

Glue F37 to the F36's inline with the angle and flush with thefront as shown.

Glue F39 to the opposite end of the F36's about 3/8" downfrom F38.

Glue the two F40's together as shown and align with the F34pieces on the wing. Sand to shape as shown. You will needto contour the piece with the wing dihedral.

Glue the F40 assembly to the ends of F36 as shown.

Set this piece aside until you finish covering the wing.

WING FILLETS:

Fill in the seams of the strip sheeting with balsa filler andsand to a smooth rounded shape. Make cuts around the tailgear steering arm so that it moves smoothly.

Bolt the wing to the fuselage and lay a piece of wax paper orplastic wrap along the wing where it meets the fuselage. Thiswill eliminate the possibility of gluing the fuselage to the wingwhen adding the fillet.

Align the right wing fillet base to the right wing and fuselageas shown. Glue in place to match on contour of the wing.

Cut part way through the first scribed line on the fillet base.Bend the fillet up so it meets the fuselage and glue in place.

Glue WF1 thru WF5 to the fillet base and fuselage along thescribed lines

Align WF7 with the trailing edge of the wing and the tip of thefillet base. You will need to wet it down with ammonia/waterin order to fit the curve. Glue in place and trim even with thefillet base.

Wet WF6 with ammonia/water and fit to the fillet base/fuse-lage. Align it with WF7 and the fillet base. Glue in place thentrim as needed to match WF7.

Bevel the top edge and wet WF8 with ammonia/water. Fit tothe fuselage between WF1 and WF5. Sand as necessary fora good fit and glue to the fillet base, fuselage and WF1 -WF5

Use tri stock and scrap balsa to fill in the area forward of theWF8 sheeting as shown.

Use balsa filler or auto body filler and a spoon to shape theforward part of the wing fillet as shown. If using auto bodyfiller, be careful not to use too much hardeneror put on very thick layers because if it cures too quickly, thefiller could shrink and pull the base off the wing.

Remove the wing, sand the fillet to shape and blend into thefuselage.

Repeat for the other fillet.

Tailcone:

Cut 3 pieces of 1/4" balsa one 7" and two 4"

Slide the tailcone pieces on the 1/4" dowel in numerical orderstarting with 1 and ending with 21 glue each piece to the pre-vious one using medium CA. You don't have to glue them tothe 1/4" stick. Made sure the scribed line on 1 is facing out-ward. NOTE: There should be approx 1-1/2" extending from1 to use as a hand hold while assembling.The two 1/4" sticks should be even with 10. Cut or sand themas necessary.

Sand the 1/4" stick even with 21 and glue 22 centered on 21.

Sand the tailcone to a smooth taper. Use balsa filler asneeded for a smooth finish. Be careful not to sand too muchoff the base or it will not align properly with the fuselage.

Cut the 1/4" sticks off the back of the tailcone and sand flat.

Glue the TC23s to the fins on the tailcone as shown. Sandthe fins so they are smooth with TC23.

Round the top fin as shown.

Align the tailcone to the rear of the fuselage and glue inplace.

Cockpit:

The cockpit should be installed after your plane is paintedand/or covered. You can paint the pieces before they are in-stalled or after if you are careful. Note: many of the photosshow the cockpit assembled outside the airplane for clarity.

Paint C19 & C8. If you use a brush, use a couple light coatsof paint so you can retain the laser engraving on each piece.

Trim the gauge lens plate to the same size as C8. Use foamsafe CA, wood glue or canopy glue to glue the gauge lensplate to C8.

Cut the gauge paper to the approximate size of the C8 as-sembly. Align the gauges to the holes and glue as shownwith foam safe CA, wood or canopy glue. Do not get glue onthe gauges themselves.

Set assembly aside and allow to dry.

Cut the gauge backing piece to size and align with the holesin C19. Glue in place with CA, wood or canopy glue.

Set aside and allow to dry.

Glue C36 to C4 on the marked location. Glue C37 to C36with the inscribed lines facing up. Align & glue C38 to C37 asshown.

Glue C34 to C4 on the scribed location. Glue C35 to C34 asshown.

Glue C33 to C4 on the scribed location. Glue C32 to C33 asshown.

Glue C40 to C4 on the scribed location.

Glue C41 to C5 on the scribed location.

Glue C31 to C5 on the scribed location.

Glue C41 to C5 on the scribed location.

Glue C28 & C29 to C5 on the scribed locations. The slots inC28 & C29 will face toward the bottom and side of C5.

Glue C30 to C28 & C29 as shown. The slots should alignwith the holes in F8 & F9. C11 will fit though these slots.

Glue C13 to the inside of C16 as shown

Glue C15 seat back to the top of C13 and inside of C16 withthe rivets facing forward.

Glue the remaining C16 side to the side of C13 and C15 asshown

Glue C14 to the front of C13 (between the C16 seat sides)

Sand the corners off the bottom of the seat and use balsaputty to cover any seams and round the inside of the seat.

Install C2 & C4 inside the front of the fuselage between form-ers F5A & F8A

Install C3 & C5 inside the back of the fuselage between for-mers F9A & F12A

Paint C21, C22, C23 & C24 flat black.

Glue C6 to the cockpit floor on the scribed lines

Glue C43 to the cockpit floor on the scribed lines. Glue C44to C43 as shown.

Cut halfway though C19 on the scribed line in order to allowthe piece to bend at the angle scribed in C2. Note: This pieceshould be already painted with the gauge paper attached.

Glue C17, C18 & C19 to the cockpit floor and side on thescribed marks. The rivet detail should be facing outward. (un-line the photo, C17 & C18 should glue to the bottom of C19)

Glue C51 to the scribed marks on C18.

Cut a piece of 3/16" wood dowel to 3-1/4".

Glue C7 to the left side of the cockpit floor on the scribedmark. Insert the dowel into C7. Place C31 and C53 over theother end of the dowel and glue them to the scribed marks.

Cut C11 in half and Insert the first half into the holes in F8A,F9A, C28 & C29. Push this piece all the way through until itis flush with F9A.

Insert the other half of C11 in the holes in F8A and F9A asshown.

Glue C11 to the outside C53 as shown

Glue C20 to C19 on the scribed marks

Stack and Glue the C42 & C47 pieces together, alternatingC42 with C47 as shown.

Glue this assembly to the scribed lines on C19.

Sand a groove in the bottom of C9 that will fit the 3/16 controlrod as shown.

Cut a piece of 3/16" dowel to 1-1/8" to use as a control stickand glue to C9

Sand the corners of C9 as shown

Glue C50 to the dowel assembly and glue the assembly tothe dowel on the cockpit floor as shown. It should be cen-tered between the rudder pedals C6.

Align and glue the C12 seat mounts to the cockpit floor andF8A on the scribed lines.

Glue the seat to the C12's so it is centered with the controlstick.

Sandwich C45 between two C46's and glue the assembly tothe cockpit floor on the right side of the seat (to the scribedlines).

Glue C27 to F8A. This part extends straight up.

If you already haven’t done so, paint cockpit and F25,F26 asshown.

Testors Model Master colors are as follows:Base color: Gray (RLM02 Grau)Black: Flat Black FS37038Red: Insignia Red FS31136Leather: Leather or Dark Tan FS30219Silver: Chrome silver or SteelYou can use a product called “Rub n Buff” to add weatheringto the seat and panels.

Glue C52 to the center of C51.

Install C21 & C22 in the cockpit floor in the slots between for-mers F8 & F9.Insure they are set at 90 degrees from thefloor.

Align & glue C23 & C24 on C21 & C22 as shown. You mayneed to wet these pieces with water or ammonia in order toget them to conform to the curve.

Align C48 to the top of C21 & C22 and glue on the scribedlines. Glue C49 to C48 as shown.

Paint C60 silver and glue to C23 & C24 on the scribed lines.

Glue C25 to F9A. Glue C26 to C25 at an angle so the top ofC26 is even with the top of C27.

Glue C10 to C39 as shown. Glue the instrument panel toF6A. Glue the C29 assembly to the bottom right of the dashpanel and C4 as shown.

Finishing:

Use a rotary tool to cut a circular hole in the end of the fiber-glass cowl.

Cut five 1” pieces from the enclosed 3/8” x 3/4” maple stickand epoxy them to the firewall so there is a 1/32” gap be-tween the block and the sheeting edge. Allow to cure.

Fit the cowl in place and sand the blocks as necessary for agood fit. Tape the cowl in place once a good fit is obtained.

Drill a hole through the cowl and into the center of eachblock. Secure the cowl with wood screws. You can alsothread each hole and secure the cowl with nylon or metalbolts.

Align and epoxy F25, F26, F27, F28 and F50 together in theshape of a box as shown. Note the location that is printed oneach piece.

**Electric Version:** All pieces will be marked with an “E”.

Epoxy F50AE to A50BE making sure the alignment marks on

F50AE are facing outward and the top is facing the correct

direction. Do not glue from the dotted line on F25 to the end

because that piece will be broken away later. It is there for

box alignment only.

Mount your engine on the firewall and slide the box into F1,F2 and F3 as shown.

Fit the cowl on the fuselage and screw into position.

Slide the motor/motor box until the thrust washer is approx1/8” from the front of the cowl. Attach the spinner backplateto the motor and insure it is aligned with the cowl.

Remove the cowl and mark the position of the motor box.Tack in place with thick CA.

Epoxy the motor box into place using 30 min epoxy, the F29pieces and tri-stock. Allow to cure.

OPTION: If you don’t think the cowl isn’t mounted straight onthe fuselage, you can fit the cowl without drilling holes,measure the distance between the F1 and the front of thecowl and mount the firewall box into position using a square.Then the cowl can be mounted to fit.

Cut the sheeting away from the retract bay as shown.

Fit W6B to W6 and W8B to W8 as shown. Sand the piecesas necessary for a good fit. Both pieces should rest on thespar and W28.

Fit W6C to W6B and W8C to W8B. Both pieces should reston the spar and W28.

Fit W24 right and left retract plates into place and glue allpieces using 30 min epoxy.

Measure the location of the wheel hole from the plans andcut the sheeting away in that location.

Test fit your retract unit.

Measure and cut the sheeting around the servos for flapsand ailerons. You can use the laser-cut servo covers as atemplate. Be careful not to cut into the 1/8” x 1/4” servo doorbases.

For a semi-scale gear, you can use the template on the plansto bend a piece of 3/16” music wire or you can use pre-bentstruts that are commercially available.

Cut the plastic gear pods and glue them together as shownusing CA or plastic glue. Note: The right side pods will bemarked with an “R”. Do not get them mixed up!! You canuse hot glue or auto body filler to smooth the seams.

Cut a hole in the top of the gear pods for the gear. At thispoint, you can make scale gear doors or just leave them off.

You can attach the gear pods to the wing using #2 woodscrews. Drill 1/16” holes around the pod and into the sheet-ing. Remove the pod and reinforce the holes in the sheetingwith thin CA.

The pods can also be glued in place with epoxy or canopyglue, however, you will not be able to remove them if youneed to service the gear.

Fit the control surfaces and cut or drill for hinges. Bevel the

control surfaces to a 45 degree angle on both sides andcheck to insure there is plenty of travel.

You can wait to hinge all the surfaces until after you finishcovering the plane. Be sure to mark where each surface isinstalled.

You can cover the airplane at this time using your preferredmethod.

There are a few different methods for hinging the flaps. Wehave used CA hinges attached to the bottom of the wing andflap. We have also installed wood blocks on the top of theflap and used hinge points to connect the flap with the wing.(Instructions for this method are located on the plans.)

You can use external control horns by cutting a slot in theservo cover or you can keep the connections internal by cut-ting a small hole in the trailing edge and attaching a smallcontrol horn to the top of the flap.

In order to keep the flap from warping, you will probably needto fiberglass it using .50 or .75 cloth on both sides of the flap.If you decide not to fiberglass the flap and do have a smallwarp (3/8” or less) it won’t affect the flight characteristicsother than requiring a few clicks of trim on the initial flight.

If your flap is warped before assembly, spray with water andstack a couple books or magazines on it. Let the flap sit for 2days.

Wrap your fuel tank in foam and install it in the firewall box.Use some scrap ply to secure it in place. connect the fuel

tubing to your engine/muffler.

Use scrap 1/8” plywood to create servo rails. They can be at-tached with servo screws to the 3/8” maple blocks on eachside of the fuselage. The above photo shows a single eleva-tor servo and rudder servo on an electric setup. If you areusing a glow motor, you can place three servos in the trayaccordingly.

Thread the clevises into the control rods. Center all servosand connect the control surfaces.

Fit the servo covers in place and drill 1/16” holes on the lasermarked locations. Remove the covers and reinforce theholes with thin CA. Use #2 wood screws to attach the covers.

Connect your other control surfaces as shown.

**Electric Version:**

Mark the location of the hatch magnets on the rails of the

fuselage and battery hatch. Drill a 1/4” hole in each location

deep enough so the magnet sits flush.

Insure the magnets have a positive attraction once the hatch

is set in place and glue the magnets in the holes using CA.

Epoxy the hook & loop battery strap to the bottom of the fire-

wall box so it can still be easily accessed.

Place the rough side of the adhesive hook & loop on the bot-

tom of the battery box, toward the front. Attach the other side

to your battery. Note: you don’t need much - just enough to

keep the battery from sliding around.

Glue the oil cooler assembly to the bottom of the wing asshown.

Attach the canopy using canopy glue or #2 wood screws.

If you are going to add scale gun detail, you can attach W29to the wing as shown on the plans and sand to shape. Youcan use a brass tube as a gun.

Cut out the exhaust stacks, paint and glue them to the cowlin the position shown on the plans. Note: Testors makes abuffing paint in exhaust color that works well on these.

Balance the place according to the specification on the planand in the front of the manual. Set your control throws ac-cording to Page 2 in the manual.

The rest is up to you. Enjoy one of the best flying warbirdsyou will ever fly!

Fiberglassing Tips:Lay the fiberglass cloth over the airframe and cut to shape.Leave about 1-1.5 inches around the outside.

Use a brush to brush out any wrinkles. Start from the insideof the wing and work your way to the outside. Cut aroundany obstructions.

Make small cuts around any curved areas so the fabric willfollow the contour.

Mix Epoxy resin 1 part resin, 1 part hardner, 1 part denaturedalcohol. Mix well.

Starting in the center of the wing, brush epoxy to the outwardedges. You will be able to brush out any wrinkles as you go.

Soak up any pools of epoxy with a paper towel. Allow to dry.

Lightly sand the cloth, wipe clean and apply a second coat 1part resin, 1 part hardner, 1/2 part denatured alcohol with afoam brush. Allow to dry.

Sand until the point where you never want to look at sandpa-per again!