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SENIOR UNIVERSITY OF A CORUÑA

ST. JAMES’WAY THROUGH

CZECH REPUBLIC AND POLAND

COURSE 2012 - 2013

AUTHORS:

AIDA GARCÍA LÓPEZ

ANSELMO CASTRO ROMERO

BRUNHILDE RASSER

DOLORES VIÑA IGLESIAS

EUGENIO PARDO EIMIL

JAVIER REY MANCEBO

MANOLI CORRAL VILLAR

PILAR VILLAVERDE PEDREIRA

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1. INTRODUCTION. ST-JAMES’ WAY

The St-James'Way is one of the most important religious paths of Christianity and its comes from the Middle Ages. It really is a set of routes from various parts of the Iberian Peninsula and across Europe to the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. For centuries they have provided different ways in which the pilgrims have come to Compostela, establishing business and cultural exchange, which allowed Goethe said that "Europe was born of the pilgrimage".

The enormous prestige that provide the relics of St. James the Greater was cleverly exploited by the monarchs asturleoneses to consolidate his kingdom against the Arab occupation and to be known to the rest of European Christianity. During the s. XI the influx of pilgrims increases and begins organizing the work of the kings to facilitate transit and for that favor religious orders, especially that of Cluny, with a network of Cluniac monasteries in northern Spain around the Camino. They built churches, bridges, hospitals and sets the path of the French Way

The ultimate accolade that makes the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route the vast and ever the great pilgrimage route in XII and XIII century is the grant from Rome Compostelan Holy Years, with the possibility that the pilgrims obtain the plenary indulgence. Saints will be years or Jubilee Years all those in which the day July 25 (day of Santiago) match on Sunday. Compostela, in this respect clearly leads to Rome itself, where such years often coincide every 25 years.

In XIV century pilgrimages to Santiago are seriously diminished due to the Black Death that ravaged Europe and the emergence of Protestantism.

In the last quarter of the twentieth century is when truly occurs the revival of pilgrimages to Santiago. No doubt that part of the success of recent years is due to reasons of tourism promotion.

In 1987 the French route is declared first European Cultural Route by the Council of Europe, becoming a symbol of cohesion and unity of the "old continent" and has also received the honorary title of Mayor Street and Europe in 1993 is considered by UNESCO as World Heritage.

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2.1. THE ST- JAMES’ WAY IN THE CZECH REPUBLIC

The St James’ Way is documented in the Czech Republic from the XI to XVIII centuries. They are records of a Czech prestigious pilgrim Baron Rožmitálu, brother of the King of Bohemia Poděbrady Jirí who in 1466 arrives with his large entourage to Compostela, tremendously controversial at a time, as the Archbishop Alonso Fonseca was Prisoner of a noble Galician, Yáñez de Moscoso, which in turn besieged the cathedral. On the day of Santiago, the Galician nobleman who led the assault, was wounded by an arrow in the throat and was cured by Frodner, one of the fellows of the Baron Rožmitálu.

Despite such adverse circumstances, they pact a truce for a day so that these distinguished travelers visiting the cathedral and received absolution from Cardinal and then continue their pilgrimage to Finisterre. Traditionally in the pre-Christian religion existed this pilgrimage to Finisterre, following the sun path, as they considered the place where the sun went down as the end of the world (Finis Terrae).

There, the pilgrims, after having gone through the purification of the four elements (earth, air, fire and water) returned home. Ther land and air have been companions for the journey. The fire as a purifying element used to burn the clothes he wore the pilgrim along the way and are replaced by new ones. The water used for cleaning dust material on the road and marks the beginning of a new life.

Today the Way is increasein strongly and associations as Ultreia, founded by Jan BIM with other pilgrims, works to recover the ancient courses of the Czech Republic, in propagating them, and create conditions for walkers who want to make this historic trip.

Its had recovered two main routes given the historical evidence that in the Middle Ages pilgrims passed through the main shopping streets in those times, of Bohemia and Moravia. In places when the way passed, we can find the shell of Santiago in many churches, along with sculptures, paintings, engravings and illustrations that represent the Apostle as a pilgrim in the entire Kingdom of Bohemia, now the Czech Republic

Routes in St James’way in Czech Republic, Photo: Nadace Partnerství’ record

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2.2 THE ROAD ROUTE THROUGH BOHEMIA

The main route that runs through Prague, arriving from the north, starting from Zittau, Germany, its passes through Stara Boleslav before arriving in Prague. Among Stara Boleslav and Prague unfortunately they are no indications for walkers, but there is a major pilgrimage road called Via Sancta. There are 44 chapels and was the way to Stara Boleslav in the time of St. Wenceslas. From Prague is headed Všeruby's throat, and then to Regensburg (Regensburg), Germany.

Church of Příbram St-James’ Church in Praga

Church of San Juan Nepomuceno

This trip was the most common in hose times. From Regensburg the Way continued through Bavaria to Constance, where it joined the Helvetic Road, Bern and Geneva through to get to Lyon in France and link to Le Puy-en-Velay, from where one of the main roads leading to Santiago today .

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But although in his day was an important trade route in Bohemia, now goes through little crowded and certainly places visited. But towns like Dobříš, Pribram, Nepomuk, hence the mystic San Juan Nepomuceno Czech, or Klatovy, are certainly a surprise to the traveler.

But here the landscapes are particularly remarkable, are increasingly quaint and quiet after the way away from Prague and is approaching to the German border, in the mountainous area of the throat of Všeruby, which divides the natural parks and Český Šumava Les.

Povýšení sv. Kříže Church in Rožmitál pod Třemšínem

This route, from Prague, Praha-Všeruby (path-3) is detailed to be made in 10 days, according to the attached maps:

Day 1: Praha-Radotín (15 km).

2nd day: Radotín-Karlštejn (16 km)

Day 3: Karlštejn-Mníšek pod Brdy-Dobříš (22 km)

Day 4: Dobris-Příbram (14 km)

5th day: Příbram-pod Rožmitál Tremsinem (15 km)

6th day: Rožmitál Tremsinem pod-Kasejovice (25 km)

Day 7: Kasejovice-Nepomuk (15 km)

8th day: Nepomuk-Klatovy (33 km)

Day 9: Klatovy-Kdyně (22 km)

10th day: Kdyně-Hraniční přechod Všeruby / Eschlkam (8 km)

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In Eschlkam, the German side of the border, there is a large stone with the inscription: "Santiago de Compostela 2825 miles"

The road continues for Germany, as is reflected in these maps:

Another alternative to Praha-Vseruby route (route-3), is the Praha-Zelezná (path-2), detailed in this map:

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2.3 THE ROAD ROUTE THROUGH MOLDOVA

The second main route.

The other main route in the Czech Republic goes through Moravia on North, through the Beskids to Velehrad. (Brno-Velehrad; Route 8 in the general map). Another part of this route is from Brno, heading south, to Mikulov. (Brno-Mikulov, Route 5 in the general map)

Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul in Brno

There are many more 'Ways' in the Czech Republic, for a total of two thousand kilometers and appear on the map marked in general

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2.3 ROAD SIGNS TO SANTIAGO IN CZECH REPUBLIC

2.4 BOOKS PUBLISHED IN THE CZECH REPUBLIC ON THE CAMINO DE SANTIAGO

Jirásek Alois (1851-1930), Czech writer of great popularity at home, write a book entitled "From Bohemia to the end of the world", published in 1889, which recreates the European tour of Baron Rožmitálu up Compostela and Finisterre.

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This book from Jirásek was required reading all Czechoslovak schools for many decades. Only between 1955-1977 the book was reprinted ten times. During this time the book "From Bohemia to the end of the world" excited the imagination of schoolchildren living in a western country with closed borders. Sites visited by medieval knights were totally unattainable for the vast majority of the Czechs at the time. The St-James' Way, Compostela and Finisterre were known in Czechoslovakia through this book.

In 1989 Czechoslovakia begins the "Velvet Revolution" and since then thousands of pilgrims began to visit Czech Compostela and Finisterre. In 2009 the Ambassador of the Czech Republic in Spain opened in Finisterre lighthouse, a plaque commemorating the trip of the delegation led by Lev Rožmitálu, to which we referred.

This book "From Bohemia to the end of the world" was translated into Castilian and Galician by Kateřina Vlasáková and published by Xacobeo plan in 2010.

The importance of St-James' Way in the Czech Republic is made manifest in the large number of books published by "pilgrims" Czechs who made the road, mostly Jirasek’s book readers.

So we can cite, among others, the book "Ultreia" of Zdeněk Susa, published in two volumes, the first in 1998 and second in 2005.

"Cestou Hvezdy" (the way of the star) of Pavla Jazairiová.

"Lurd of Santiaga Z" (From Lourdes to Santiago) Mirka Čížková

"Z Čech až na Konec Sveta" (From Bohemia to the end of the world) of Frantšek Šesták, which chronicles the experiences of his bike trip.

"Cart-průvodce Svatojakubská poutniky to Nejen pro pro ne" (Camino de Santiago-guide not only for pilgrims), a guide written in 2009 by Zuzana Miluše Válcová and Churáňová.

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3.1 THE POLISH WAY

As the saying goes, "All roads lead to Rome" is also true that all roads lead to Santiago and between these roads are also roads to Santiago in Poland.

In recent years the popularity of the Camino de Santiago in Poland reborn quickly, not least because of the figure of the Polish Pope John Paul II, who visited the Galician capital twice, and once even walked a stretch of road. In 1987 the Camino de Santiago was declared the first European Cultural Route, and from 1993 is considered as part of the UNESCO World Heritage. The Council of Europe has issued a document which calls on national governments, regional and NGO's to allow as reconstruyesen and the many paths of Santiago. The request did not go unanswered.

Today, in addition to Spanish roads, other countries take care of their "own" paths. Also in Poland where the tradition of pilgrimages to the tomb of the Apostle was almost completely forgotten, work has started aimed at the identification and restoration of ancient pilgrimage routes.

The focus is on the Polish road, which begins in Ogrodniki, on the border with Lithuania, driving in Olsztyn, Torun, Gniezno and Poznan to Slubice, on the Polish border - German. The Polish Way will join the network of European routes to form part of the great European road travel.

On April 28, 2007 officially opened the first section of the Polish road, leading from the Cathedral of Santiago in Olsztyn to the Gothic church of Santiago in Torun. This part of the road approx. 240 km, has been divided into 9 stages between 18 and 37 km. Length. The proposed stages can be extremely stressful, so people who are not in top physical condition can be divided into

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more stages the way: this is possible thanks to the network of places to spend the night, especially in the rural tourism houses , rented rooms or campsites.

Unlike Spain, where many hostels are maintained by the parish churches or monasteries with help of EU, funds in Poland in Olsztyn existing fragment Torun) one can find shelter in church institutions only in the House of pilgrim in Giertzwald. With time and development of the pilgrimage and infrastructure appear monastic hostels so important to Catholics.

The Polish Way was drawn almost all the way from the existing hiking trails, especially E-11 international road trails, as well as local travel. The stretch Olsztyn - Torum runs very attractive regions for tourism: Warmia, Mazury Western Pookezierze Brodnikie, part of Pomerania Vistula Valley. The trails lead through forests and fields, especially for roads: we walk through the valley of the river Drweca and lakeshores that abound in those regions and accompanying pilgrims throughout the trip.

At present, identify and trace the remaining stages of the Polish Way: from Ogradniki to Olsztyn and from Torun to Slubice.

3.2 THE ROAD AND THE REGION.

The Warmia and Mazury region is located in the northeastern part of Poland and is considered one of the most beautiful regions of Poland. This Prussian fief was extended from Pomerania to the Polish corridor and even in the history of change often Prussian territory becomes Polish territory, since the end of World War it belongs to Poland.

It is a region of extraordinary landscapes. There are rather flat terrain and dense and dark forests, interrupted by occasional elevation.

Among lakes, canals, forests and fields of wheat and oats, among others, the landscape is a haven of peace and quietness. In spring, the storks' nests are everywhere and belong to the landscape as the infinite amount of wildflowers that dot the vast meadows from early spring to autumn gold of Poland. Summers are hot and winters are extremely cold where snow remains throughout the winter. With the abundant spring thaws each year are new lakes. It is habitat for many waterfowl.

Olsztyn is the historical regional capital and is the main attraction of the region are more than 2,000 lakes. This region is known as "the thousand lakes", although there are actually more than twice. Large and small lakes, some linked by channels that allow long routes over water as the boats when they reach the end of a channel are high ground by rotating bridges where they continue their

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journey by rail to the next channel or lake. The best known are the channel Elblaski and the channel Mazurski.

Being a historical region, we can found here such as medieval castles monuments of the Teutonic Order in Ryny Ketrzyn and one in Olsztyn. Also, they are medieval fortifications and, more recently, it remains some witnessed the World War II when Hitler ordered several bunkers were built being the most important the Wilczy Szaniec Gierloz (Wolf's Lair), main Nazi headquarters’s zone area that was connected with Berlin by air (had its own airport) and rail.

The route is dotted with Gothic churches (Ketrzyn, Reszel, Olsztyn), monasteries (Sejny, Wigry, Holy Lipka, Baczewo), altars and road crossings (between Saint Lipka and Reszel). It is noteworthy that many of the Gothic churches along the route are named Santiago.

In the entire route (in both populations and in areas of the forest) the road has been marked with plates or stickers with the command shell 10 X 10 cm. In some places the shells are even painted on trees. The route passes mostly through forest and field roads, although there are also some longer stretches of road car but with little traffic In this respect no difference this Way from the others St-James' Ways in other European countries. It can be used by pilgrims who walk as cyclists.

For overnight stays, you can sleep in parish buildings and monasteries, but in this case the pilgrim must have credentials. They don’t yet have a network of shelters such as in Spain, but there are hostels for the night. Sleeping sites in general are usually modest and must be received with Christian kindness small mishaps can be. You must have your own sleeping bag.

Spiritual care is guaranteed. Poland is predominantly a Catholic country where almost every population may attend Mass (during the week). For staying in a church or a monastery, go to Mass the next day is well acceptable. During the week you can find churches closed in some populations of the Way, available only in times of trades. In Protestant and Orthodox churches, the offices are held rather only on Sunday morning. In most Catholic parish churches, the liturgy is celebrated daily in the morning (at 7 or 7.30) and also the takes (at 17.00 or 18.00).

The path of the Great Pardon, is this path that thousands of pilgrims walk along one of the lines of the Milky Way is the Way of St. James.

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3.3 THE HIGHLIGHTS SITES OF THE ROUTE

Ogrodniki: First city on the border with Lithuania where is beginning the Polish road (but not yet drawn). Before 1772 belonged to the Kingdom of Poland and from 1772-1945 to Prussia and Germany..

Gizycko: Tourist resort.

Ketrzyn: The Church of St. George, built in the first half of the sixteenth century in Baltic Gothic (also called Gothic bricks) which is a simplified style of Gothic architecture and Gothic Revival.

Reszel: Episcopal Gothic castle, built from 1350 to 1401.

Gothic St. Peter's Church which dates from the 14th century and has paintings of the patron saint of the church dating from the late 18th century. Other buildings worth mentioning are the complex monastery of the Jesuits, the Church of San Juan and the church and monastery of the monks of the Order of St. Catherine, all of the 15th and 16th centuries. The large fragments preserved from defensive walls and the classicist town hall in the Market Square both dates back to the 19th century and well worth the visit. Nearby is the Sanctuary Reszel Catholic Swieta Lipka, a late medieval baroque church. It is santuary since the 17th century.

Olsztyn: This is the capital of Voivodato (administrative province) of Warmia and Masuria. For its capitality, is the economic center of education and culture of the region. In Olsztyn tyhere is is the University of Warmia-Masuria. Also relevant is the location of a Michelin factory, founded in 1969, which has led to an important development to the city.

In Olsztyn, due to their Prussian past we can find a castle of the Teutonic Order established in 1334 by Jan de Lajsy, and a small but notable medieval old town. This highlights the Wysoka Brama, an ancient Teutonic door that was part of the wall that surrounded the city and the St. James Church and the Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus. But surely, so Olsztyn differs from other Polish cities, is the large and varied number of surrounding nature. In the municipality there are 11 lakes in Olsztyn, and the city is surrounded by forests, thereby forming a pleasant surrounding landscape.

Brodnica: Mayor, Mazurska Tower; Door Chelminstica, Brodnica Castle, Old Town and the Palace of Anna Vasa of Sweden

Torun: Is a city located in northern Poland, on the banks of the Vistula River. It is, along with Bydgoszcz, the capital of the Pomeranian Voivodato and Kujawy. Torun is the birthplace of Nicolaus Copernicus, included in the list of World

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Heritage cities of Unesco since 1997, it is famous for having more than 300 monuments inscribed in the history of European art. The composition of the square and adjacent streets remains the same as 700 years ago

The main monuments are:

- Gothic churches: The Cathedral Basilica of Saint John the Baptist and St. John the Evangelist, a church built in the fourteenth century and extended in the fifteenth century, outstanding sculptures and paintings (Moses, St. Mary Magdalene, gravestone of Johann von Soest), epitaphs and Renaissance and Baroque altars (including the epitaph of Copernicus, 1580).

- Church of St. James, XIV century basilica with monumental murals of the fourteenth century.

- Old Town Hall, begun in 1274, extensively rebuilt between 1391 and 1399 and expanded in the late sixteenth century, one of the most monumental hall in Central Europe.

- Fortifications of the city, begun in the thirteenth century and extended between V and XV were demolished in the nineteenth century preserving the city gates and watchtowers in the Vistula side.

- XV century Gothic House, where allegedly Copernicus was born (now a museum).

- Ruins of the castle of the Teutonic Knights thirteenth century

- The house under the star (in Polish Dom Pod Gwiazda), formerly gothic, briefly owned by Filip Callimachos subsequently rebuilt in the sixteenth century and in 1697, decorated with rich stucco facade and wooden spiral staircase.

- Torun has the largest number of Gothic houses in Poland with many gothic murals and ceilings with wooden beams of the sixteenth and eighteenth centuries.

It should be noted that Torunt, unlike many other historic Polish cities was almost intact after the Second World War. In particular the old town remained intact and all its important monuments are originals - not rebuilt after being destroyed.

The route described here is by no means the only one of those in Poland. In the Southeast, for example, there is (or rather was, and which is now in Ukraine) a region called Galitzia and who knows if in the near future, this Galitzia pilgrims begin the "Road" and ends in the other Galicia.

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3.4 PHOTO GALLERY

OGRODNIKI

KETRYNZ

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RESZEL

OLSZTYN

BRODNICA

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TORUN

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4. CZECH REPUBLIC ST-JAMES’S WAY BIBLIOGRAPHY.

Arias, Juan. “Viajeros por Galicia”. Ediciós do Castro. 1998

Jirásek, Alois. “Desde Bohemia ata o fin do mundo”. Xunta de Galicia. Plan Xacobeo. 2010

Vlasáková, Kateřina. “Desde a Galicia do século XXI cara á Bohemia dos séculos XX, XIX e XV” (Prólogo do libro de Alois Jirásek)

Websites consulted:

Origen e historia del Camino de Santiago (ARTEGUIAS) www.arteguias.com/camino-santiago-historia.htm

Radio Praga - El Camino de Santiago checo www.radio.cz › radio.cz › Espacio «Radioviajes»

Asociaciones de Amigos del Camino de Santiago - Asociación ... www.caminosnorte.org/enlaces.html

CV00 EL CAMINO A FINISTERRE.pdf - Albergue de peregrinos www.alberguedeperegrinos.com/.../...

ULTREIA Espanol ULTREIA www.ultreia.cz/uvod/ultreia-espanol/ El camino de Santiago en la República checa http://www.vwv.cz/jakub/index.php http://www.vwv.cz/jakub/ceskar.php

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5. POLAND ST-JAMES’S WAY BIBLIOGRAPHY.

Mapa pochodzi z Przewodnika: Szlak Św. Jakuba, Polska Droga - Camino Polaco, Odcinek Olsztyn - Toruń Info: kolporter@proagricola.com.pl

http://www.tur-info.pl/p/ak_id,7642,,torun,olsztyn,camino_de_santiago,szlak,sw_jakub,droga_sw_jakuba,olsztyn_torun.html http://pl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camino_Polaco

http://www.santiago.defi.pl/index.php?i=pd_trasa2

http://sandomierz.wordpress.com/