Regis St Louis Ray Bartlett, Oliver Berry, Gregor Clark, Shawn Duthie

Steve Fallon, Carolyn Heller, Anna Kaminski, Adam Karlin, John Lee, Craig McLachlan, Liza Prado,

Brendan Sainsbury, Phillip Tang

AMAZING ROAD TRIPS32

BEST TRIPSCANADA’S

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

MAP LEGEND

SYMBOLS IN THIS BOOK CONTENTS

% Telephone Number

h Opening Hours

p Parking

n Nonsmoking

a Air- Conditioning

i Internet Access

W Wi-Fi Access

v Vegetarian Selection

s Swimming Pool

E English- Language Menu

c Family-Friendly

# Pet-Friendly

Tips from Locals

Top Tips

Link Your Trips

Trip Detour

5 Eating

Family

History & Culture

Food & Drink

Outdoors

Essential Photo

Walking Tour

4 Sleeping

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Canada ........................ 7

Canada Highlights ..........................10

If You Like... ................................... 20

Need to Know ................................. 22

City Guide ....................................... 24

Canada by Region .......................... 28

Canada Classic Trips ..................... 30

ON THE ROAD

BRITISH COLUMBIA .........33

1 Vancouver & the Fraser Valley ............2 Days 37

2 Sea to Sky Highway ................1–2 Days 45

3 A Strait Hop ......... 2–3 Days 55

4 Southern Vancouver Island Tour ........... 4–5 Days 65

5 Vancouver Island’s Remote North ...... 2–3 Days 73

6 Okanagan Valley Wine Tour .................2 Days 81

7 Haida Gwaii Adventure .................2 Days 91

Walk Track/Path

River/CreekSwamp/MangroveCanalWaterDry/Salt/ Intermittent LakeGlacier

BeachCemetery (Christian)Cemetery (Other)ParkForest

Sportsground

International

Cliff

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian Overpass

Tunnel

Walk RouteLinked TripTrip DetourTrip Route

Airport

Train/Railway

Cable Car/ Funicular

US Interstate Hwy US National Hwy

Provincial/Territorial Hwy

Trans-Canada Hwy

US State Hwy

ReservationUrban Area

Trip Stop

Tram

Trip Numbers

Walking tour

Trip Detour

ParkingSubway station

Metro/Muni station

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimarySecondary

Unsealed Road

Transport

Hydrography

Areas

Boundaries

Population

Routes

Route Markers

Trips

Note: Not all symbolsdisplayed above appear on

the maps in this book2

CONTENTS

8 Circling the Rockies .....................3 Days 99

9 Around the Kootenays ............ 5–6 Days 107

THE PRAIRIE PROVINCES & THE NORTH ....................119

a Dinosaurs, Hoodoos & the Wild West...... 2–3 Days 123

b Icefields Parkway ....................2 Days 133

c Explore Southern Saskatchewan ... 3–4 Days 143

d North from Saskatoon ........... 3–4 Days 151

e Klondike Highway ............... 4–5 Days 159

f Dempster Highway ................6–7 Days 167

ONTARIO .........................179

g Lake Superior Coastline ..................7 Days 183

h People & Culture Loop ........ 4–5 Days 191

i The Niagara Peninsula ..................3 Days 201

The AtlanticRegion

p307

Québecp241Ontario

p179

The PrairieProvinces &

the Northp119British

Columbiap33

3

Contents cont.

Nova Scotia Fishing boats in Peggy’s Cove (p321) JUSTIN FOULKES/LONELY PLANET ©

j The Kawarthas .........5 Days 213

k Southern Ontario Nature Loop ..........5–7 Days 219

l Thousand Island Parkway ....................7 Days 229

QUÉBEC ..........................241

m Up to the Laurentians ..............2 Days 245

n Eastern Townships ...................1 Day 255

oMontréal to Québec City ................1 Day 265

p Around, Over & In the St Lawrence River ........3 Days 273

q The Saguenay Fjord & Lac St Jean ...... 3–4 Days 283

r Circling the Gaspé Peninsula ............ 7–8 Days 293

THE ATLANTIC REGION ...........................307

s Central Nova Scotia ...........10 Days 311

t South Shore Circular ...................10 Days 319

u The Cabot Trail ...................... 2–3 Days 329

v Two Islands, Three Provinces .................8 Days 339

w Icebergs, Vikings & Whales ..................5 Days 349

ROAD TRIP ESSENTIALS

Canada Driving Guide .................361

Canada Travel Guide ................... 366

Index ..............................................376

4

5

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments help make our books better. We read every word, and we guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the authors. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions.

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WRITER THANKSRAY BARTLETTThanks first and foremost, to Buck, for the chance to work on this, and to each of the editors who will peek at it afterwards, and to the great team of co-authors. Thanks as well to my family, friends, and to the incredible collage of folks I met along the way: Kristina, Vera, Rubí, Miro, Allan & Dan, Cat and Greg, Louise and Melva, Alice H, Molly and Spencer (congrats!), Morgan, William Flenders, Josh W, Char, the “Lindsays,” Riya, and many more.

OLIVER BERRYBig thanks to Ben Buckner for the chance to return to write about Canada, to the LP editors for whipping my work

into shape, and to my fellow writers for making this book what it is. Heartfelt thanks to Rosie Hillier for putting up with my wanderlust, and to Susie Berry for long-distance correspondence. Thanks also to Sam White, Justin Foulkes, Deborah Gill, Anna Louis and many others for useful Canadian tips and much-needed hospitality.

GREGOR CLARKHeartfelt thanks to all of the kind Albertans and fellow travelers who shared their love and knowledge of Banff and Jasper – especially Karina Birch, Kate Williams, Ken Wood, Paul Krywicki, Erin Wilkinson, Ed and Vanessa, Shauna and Lindsay. Thanks also to the family and friends who helped me explore

Banff and Jasper’s trails: Chloe, Sophie, Wes and Ted, that means you! Couldn’t have asked for a more delightful research crew.

SHAWN DUTHIEIt was great to re-connect with my home province and my deepest thanks to Vivek, Danny and Stefan for allowing me to sleep on your couch, driving too many kilometres to count and just making the research even more fun than usual. Of course, my biggest thank you is to my wife and son who put up with all my traveling!

STEVE FALLONUn très grand merci to the folk who offered assistance, ideas and/or hospitality along the way, including Gabriel d’Anjou Drouin and Maxime Aubin in Québec

BEHIND THE

SCENES

THIS BOOKThis 1st edition of Lonely Planet’s Canada’s Best Trips guidebook was curated by Regis St Louis. It was researched and written by Ray Bartlett, Oliver Berry, Gregor Clark, Shawn Duthie, Steve Fallon, Carolyn Heller, Anna Kaminski, Adam Karlin, John Lee, Craig McLachlan, Liza Prado, Brendan Sainsbury and Phillip Tang. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editor Ben Buckner

Senior Product Editors Martine Power, Saralinda Turner, Grace Dobell

Product Editor Jenna Myers

Regional Senior Cartographer Corey Hutchison

Book Designer Gwen Cotter

Assisting Editors Sarah Bailey, James Bainbridge, Judith Bamber, Michelle Bennett, Joel Cotterell, Lucy Cowie, Melanie

Dankel, Carly Hall, Victoria Harrison, Jennifer Hattam, Gabrielle Innes, Kellie Langdon, Jodie Martire, Lou McGregor, Christopher Pitts, Sarah Reid, Tamara Sheward, Simon Williamson

Cover Researcher Naomi Parker

Thanks to Catherine Naghten

374

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

City; Vicky Drolet in Malbaie; Sylvie Senécal & Pierre Lachance in Ville de Mont-Tremblant; and Carolyne Cyr and Pierre-André Guichoud in Ste-Adèle. Et à mon cher ‘pays d’hiver’ qui a combattu le bon combat et gagné! (And to my beloved `land of winter’ that fought the good fight and won!) As always, my share is dedicated to my now spouse and almost Quebecer, Michael Rothschild.

CAROLYN HELLERMany thanks to all the friends and colleagues who shared their Québec tips, especially Kim Huard-Carette and Emily Dunn. Special thanks to Ben Buckner for signing me onto the Canada team, to Suzie Loiselle and Étienne Fiola for all the advice and the crêpes, and to Michaela Albert, ace travel buddy, snow hiker, and champion lobster eater.

ANNA KAMINSKIHuge thanks to Ben for entrusting me with Nunavut, NWT and Manitoba, and to everyone who’s helped me along the way. In particular: Theresa and the merry crew of medics, plus Stephen, Alan and Brian in Iqaluit, Markus in Pangnirtung, Joamie, Pootoogook and Silaqqi in Cape Dorset, Don and Christine in Fort Smith, Sherry in Valleyview, Jacob and Herb in Yellowknife, John and Gina in Fort Providence, Lois in Fort Simpson, Wayne at Checkpoint, and Minerva in Inuvik.

ADAM KARLINBig thanks: Ben Buckner, for getting me on this project, Anna Kaminski, my commiserator in chief, my fellow co-authors, Carolyn and Adam in St John’s, Gordon in Bonavista, the construction crews of the New Wes Valley, Mom and Dad, my

wild little Isaac, and my favorite traveling companions: Rachel, who can layer for anything, and Sanda, who endures the road better than her daddy.

JOHN LEEHeartfelt thanks to Maggie for joining me at all those restaurants and for keeping me calm during the brain-throbbing final write-up phase of this project. Thanks also to Max, our crazy-whiskered ginger cat, for sticking by my desk and also reminding me to chase him around the house every once in a while. Cheers also to my brother Michael for visiting from England and checking out some local breweries with me: you really know how to go the extra mile.

CRAIG MCLACHLANA hearty thanks to all those who helped out on the road, but most of all, to my exceptionally beautiful wife, Yuriko, who maintained semi-control of my craft-beer intake.

LIZA PRADOA shout out to the extraordinary LP team: Ben Buckner, the production crew, my co-authors – I’m so proud to be able to work with you. Mil gracias to Mom and Dad for your boundless support, love, and curiosity about places so close to home. Big thanks to Eva and Leo for waiting so patiently for ‘Fun…With Mom.’ And Gary, my love, there is absolutely no way I could do my job without you. Your support, your understanding, your cheerleading. Thank you, always.

BRENDAN SAINSBURYMany thanks to all the skilled bus drivers, helpful tourist information staff, generous hotel owners, expert burger flippers, unobtrusive bears and numerous

passers-by who helped me, unwittingly or otherwise, during my research trip. Special thanks to my wife Liz, my son Kieran and my mother-in-law Ammy for their company (and patience) on the road.

PHILLIP TANGThank you to Ben Buckner and the DEs for your expertise and legacy. Muchas gracias a Lalo (José Eduardo García Sánchez) por tu apoyo y consejo sobre estilo y mucho más desde lejos. Thank you to Felix, Nick Zhang and all the other Montréalers who offered guidance; and to Manuelle González Goretti for advice on the Eastern Townships and adventures in the Village.

ACKNOWLEDGE-MENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.

Front cover photographs (clockwise from top):

Icefields Parkway, Alberta and British Columbia; Chantal de Bruijne/Shutterstock ©; Totem Pole, Stanley Park, British Columbia; Apexphotos/Getty Images ©; Vintage car, Québec; Design Pics Inc/Alamy Stock Photo ©

Back cover photograph: Okanagan Lake, Kelowna, British Columbia; Stan Jones/Shutterstock ©

375375

AAbbaye St-Benoît-du-Lac 259accessible travel 367accommodations 23, 367-8activities, see individual

actvitiesAdvocate Harbour 313-14, 317air travel 366Alert Bay 78, 79Algonquin Provincial Park

216, 217Alice Lake 48-9animals 126Annapolis Royal 323-4, 327Anne of Green Gables 344Antigonish 315, 317apps 363Aquatarium 232aquatic adventures 21Arctic Circle 170-1area codes 373arts 68, 194, 209Athabasca Falls 140Athabasca Glacier 137Atlas Coal Mine 126ATMs 372

Avon River 194

BBaddeck 336, 337Baie St Paul 280, 281Banff National Park 101-2, 105Bay St Lawrence 332-3BC Forest Discovery Centre 59beaches 19, 75Berthierville 266Big Tancook Island 321

Bishop’s University 262Blackfoot Crossing Historical

Park 126-7Blue Mountain 220-1, 226boat travel 366-7Boldt Castle 231Bonanza Creek

Discovery Site 164Bonaventure 296Bonavista 355, 357border crossings 363Botanical Beach 70Bow Lake 135, 141Brackendale 48Brandywine Falls

Provincial Park 51-2Brantford 197breweries

Battery Park Beerbar 312Brothers Brewing Co 193Craft Beer Corner 345Dildo Brewing Company 352Garrison Brewing

Company 358Lake of the Woods Brewing

Company 188Sleeping Giant Brewing

Co 188Stone City Ales 231Tatamagouche Brewing

Co 314Brier Island 324, 327Brigus 352, 357Britannia Beach 47, 53Brockville 232, 235Brohm Lake 49Bromont 257, 263Bruce Peninsula National Park

221-2, 226

Burgess Shale World Heritage Site 104

business hours 372

Butterfly Conservatory 204

Ccable cars 276

Sea to Sky Gondola 48Cabot Trail, the 17, 329-36Calgary 174-5Campbell River Museum 77Canada Place 115Canal de Lachine 302canoeing 185, 323Canso 314Cap Tourmente National

Wildlife Area 277, 279Cape Blomidon 325Cape George 315Cape Smokey 332Capilano Suspension Bridge 39car hire 22car insurance 361car travel, see drivingCarcross 160-2Carleton 296, 301Carmacks 163, 165Carmelis Goat Cheese

Artisan 87Cassis Monna & Filles 275Cathedral Grove 75Cavendish 344, 347cell phones 23, 373Charlevoix 18Charlottetown 345, 347cheese 69, 87Chemainus 59-60, 62-3Chester 321-2

INDEX

376

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Chéticamp 333, 335, 337Chibougamau region 288Chinatown (Vancouver) 114Chinatown (Victoria) 116churches & cathedrals

Basilica of Our Lady Immaculate 193

Église de Bonaventure 296Église St-Jean 275Her Majesty’s Chapel of the

Mohawks 197Our Lady of the Assumption

Co-Cathedral 147St Dunstan’s Basilica 345Ursulines Chapel 304

Cirque de Soleil 269climate 22CN Tower 236Coaticook 259Columbia Icefield Discovery

Centre 137, 139, 141Confederation Bridge 345Confederation Trail, the 344Coombs 75-6costs 23Cowboy Trail, the 130, 131Cowichan Bay 58-9, 62Cranbrook 110, 113credit cards 372Cumberland 76-7, 79Cupids 352, 357currency 22cycling 322Cypress Hills Interprovincial

Park 145, 149

Ddangers, see safetyDartmouth 312-13, 317Dawson City 12, 164, 165Dempster Highway 167-72Dildo 352Dinosaur Provincial Park 127, 131dinosaurs 127, 147, 314disabilities, travelers with 367discount cards 369diving 223Dolbeau-Mistassini 288Dr Sun Yat-Sen Classical

Chinese Garden 114

driving 13, 361-5, 366fuel 22, 49, 186, 365road rules 60, 364-5tips 170, 362

Drumheller 125, 131Duck Lake Interpretive

Center 155

Dungeon Park 355

EEagle Plains 170East Point 342-3, 346Eastend 145-6, 149electricity 370Elliston 353Emerald Lake 104emergencies 22Engineer Creek

Campground 168-9

Englishtown 331

FFar North 288Fathom Five National Marine

Park 223ferries 342festivals 84, 96, 208Field 103-4, 105First Nations

communities 78, 224culture 288dance 78Eskasoni 331Haida, the 96history 197literature 197Mi’kmaq 331

Fish Point Provincial Nature Reserve 225

Flowerpot Island 223food 20, 23, 370-1Forillon National Park 298Fort Langley 40-1, 43Fort McPherson 171-2, 173Fort Steele Heritage Town 110Fort Whoop-Up 130forts

Fort Anne 323Fort Calgary 174

Fort George 205Fortress of Louisbourg 331Grassy Island Fort 314

fossils 314fuel 22, 49, 186, 365

GGabriola Island 61Gananoque 231-2, 235gas 22, 49, 186, 365Gaspé 297-8, 301Gastown 114gay travelers 371Géopark de Percé 297Georgetown 342, 346Gibsons 60-1Golden 104, 105, 108-9, 113Golden Spruce, the 94gold-panning 41Goldstream Provincial Park 57-8Grand Pré 325Grasslands National Park 148Gravelbourg 147-8Green Gables Heritage

Place 344Greenwich Dunes 343, 346-7Grouse Mountain 40Guelph 192-3, 198Gwaii Haanas National Park

Reserve 92

HHaida Gwaii 12Haliburton Forest 215Haliburton Highlands 215-16,

217Halifax 320-1, 326, 340, 358-9Hamilton 209Harrison Hot Springs 42, 43Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump

World Heritage Site 130highlights 10-19hiking 21historic sites

Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site 336

Chiefswood National Historic Site 197

Citadel Hill National Historic Site 359

377

IND

EX C-H

Cupids Cove Plantation Provincial Historic Site 352

Fort Henry National Historic Site 231

Fort Langley National Historic Site 40

Fort Walsh National Historic Site 146

Fortifications of Québec National Historic Site 304

Kilby Historic Site 42Pointe-au-Père National

Historic Site 299SS Klondike National

Historic Site 162Uncle Tom’s Cabin Historic

Site 196-7history 21Hockey Hall of Fame 236-7holidays 373Hoodoo Trail 125Hope 42Hopewell Rocks 345Horseshoe Bay 46Horseshoe Canyon 125

hot springs 112

Iice skating 220Icefields Parkway 14-15, 133-40Île Bonaventure 297Île d’Orléans’ North Coast

275, 281Île d’Orléans’ South Coast

275-6, 281Indian Head Cove 222Ingonish 332, 337insurance 361internet access 23, 371internet resoures 23, 25, 26,

27, 365

Inuvik 172, 173

JJasper 140, 141Jeddore Oyster Ponds 316Joggins Fossil Cliffs 314

Juan de Fuca Provincial Park 70

KKakabeka Falls Provincial

Park 188Kawartha Highlands

Provincial Park 214-15Kawarthas, the 213-16kayaking 231, 315, 323, 324Keji Seaside Adjunct 324Kejimkujik National Park 322-3,

326-7Kelowna 83-4, 88-9Kenora 188Kicking Horse Pass 103Killarney Provinical Park 185-6,

189Kimberley 109-10Kingston 230-1, 235Klondike Highway 159-64Knowlton 259Kootenay Lake 110-11

LLa Malbaie 280, 281Lac Brome 258-9Lac St-François 258Lake Cowichan 69-70Lake Louise 10-11, 102, 105,

135, 141Lake Superior Provincial Park

186-7, 189Langley Farmland 41-2languages 22L’Anse St Jean 290La Ronge 156, 157Laurentians, the 245-51Lawrencetown Beach 316lesbian travelers 371Lethbridge 129-30, 131LGBTIQ+ travelers 371lighthouses

Cape Bear Lighthouse 342Cape d’Or Lighthouse 314Cape George Point

Lighthouse 315East Point Lighthouse 342Peggy’s Cove

Lighthouse 321Point Prim Lighthouse 345

London 195-6, 199

Lucy Maud Montgomery’s Cavendish Homestead 344

Lunenburg 322, 326Lynn Canyon Park 40Lynn Canyon Park Ecology

Centre 40

MMagog 259, 261, 263Maison Drouin 275Maitland 313, 317Malagash Peninsula 314Manitou Beach 154Manitoulin Island 224Maple Creek 144-5, 149maple syrup 250maps 363Marble Canyon 101Margaree Fish Hatchery 336Margaree Valley 335-6markets

Artisan Market 356Bromont Flea Market 257ByWard Market 238Coombs Old Country

Market 75-6Hamilton’s Farmers

Market 209Marché Atwater 302Saturday Market 70St Jacobs Farmers Market 193St Lawrence Market 237Sunday Antique Market 237Val-David Summer

Market 248Mashteuiatsh 287-8Masset 95, 97Mayne Island 68, 71measures 369Memory Lane Heritage

Village 316Merridale Estate Cidery 58Mi’kmaq culture 331Mission Hill Family Estate 83, 88mobile phones 23, 373money 22, 23, 372Montague 342Montgomery, Lucy Maud 344Montréal 26, 302-3Mont-Ste-Anne 277

378

IND

EX H-M

Mont-Tremblant Village 251Moraine Lake 102Morrisburg 234motorcycles, see drivingMt Edith Cavell 140Mt Garibaldi 51Mt McKay 188museums & galleries

Art Gallery of Greater Victoria 57

Art Gallery of Guelph 192-3Art Gallery of Hamilton 209Art Gallery of Nova Scotia

358-9Audain Art Museum 52BiIl Reid Gallery of Northwest

Coast Art 115Britannia Mine Museum 47Canada War Museum 239Canadian Canoe Museum 214Canadian Museum of

Immigration 358Centre d’Art Marcel

Gagnon 295Cité de l’Énergie 269Crystal Cabin 93Cumberland Museum 77Deep South Pioneer

Museum 148Dixon Entrance Maritime

Museum 95Eagle Aerie Gallery 75East Coulee School

Museum 126Eastend Historical

Museum 146Elmira Railway Museum 342Empress of Ireland

Museum 299-300Esker Foundation Contempo-

rary Art Gallery 174-5Fisheries Museum of the

Atlantic 322Fisherman’s Life Museum 316Fundy Geological

Museum 313FUSE 115Galerie d’Art Beauchamp 280Gibsons Public Art

Gallery 61Keno City Mining Museum 162

MacBride Museum of Yukon History 162

Maple Syrup Museum 193Margaree Salmon

Museum 336Maritime Museum of the

Atlantic 358Mennonite Heritage

Museum 154Musée Acadien du

Québec 296Musée Amérindien de

Mashteuiatsh 287Musée d’Art Contemporain

de Baie St Paul 280Musée d’Art Contemporain

des Laurentides 247Musée de Charlevoix 280Musée de l’Amérique

Francophone 305Musée du Chocolat du

Chocolat de la Confiserie Bromont 257

Musée Québécois de Culture Populaire 270

Museum at Campbell River 77

Museum London 195Musquodoboit Harbour

Railway Museum 316Niagara Falls History

Museum 203Okanagan Wine and Orchard

Museum 84Parisian Laundry Gallery 303Pender Islands Museum 68Port Clements Museum 94Powell River Museum 61Power Plant Contemporary

Art Gallery 236Prince Albert Historical

Museum 155Revelstoke Railway

Museum 112Royal BC Museum 56-7Royal Tyrrell Museum of

Palaeontology 125Silvery Slocan Museum 112Sooke Region Museum 70Spirit Gallery 46Trinity Museum 353Trois Pignons 335

Ursulines Museum 304Vancouver Art Gallery 114-15Waterfront Gallery 68

music 362

NNakusp 112national & provincial parks

Alice Lake Provincial Park 49Arisaig Provincial Park 315Basin Head Provincial

Park 343Blomidon Provincial Park 325Cabots Landing Provincial

Park 332Caribou-Munroes Island

Provincial Park 342Kakabeka Falls Provincial

Park 188Kejimkujik National Park

322-3Killarney Provinical

Park 185-6Kootenay National Park 100Lac La Ronge Provincial

Park 156Lake Superior Provincial

Park 186-7Naikoon Provincial Park 96Parc de la Gorge de

Coaticook 259Parc d’Environnement

Naturel 258Parc National de

Frontenac 258Parc National de la

Gaspésie 299Parc National de la

Mauricie 268Parc National de la Pointe-

Taillon 289Parc National de la

Yamaska 258Parc National de l’Île-

Bonaventure-et-du-Rocher-Percé 296-7

Parc National de Miguasha 295

Parc National du Bic 300Parc National du Mont Orford

258, 261

379

IND

EX M-N

Parc National du Mont-Mégantic 258

Parc National du Mont-Tremblant 251

Parc Nationale des Hautes Gorges de la Rivière Malbaie 277

Prince Edward Island National Park 343-4

Strathcona Provincial Park 78

National Gallery of Canada 238Neil’s Harbour 332Nelson 111-12, 113New Denver 112New Glasgow 344-5, 347newspapers 369New-Wes-Valley 356Niagara Falls 16-17, 203, 205,

210Niagara Glen Nature

Reserve 204Niagara Peninsula, the 201-8Niagara-on-the-Lake 205, 207-

8, 210-11Nitainlaii Territorial Park 171North Hatley 261-2, 263

OOchre Ponds 101Ogema 148, 149Ogopogo 85Okanagan Lavender Farm 84-5Okanagan Valley 12Old Masset 95opening hours 372Ottawa 234, 235, 238-9

Ottawa Locks 238-9

PPaint Pots 101Parc de l’île St-Quentin 270Parc Linéaire du P’tit Train du

Nord 248Parc National de la

Mauricie 268Parc National de la Pointe-

Taillon 289, 291Parc National de Miguasha

295-6

Parc National du Mont- Tremblant 251

Parc Nationale des Hautes Gorges de la Rivière Malbaie 277

Parker Ridge Trail 136parking 365parks & gardens

Beacon Hill Park 117Botanical Gardens 204Butchart Gardens 67Fort William Historical

Park 188Halifax Public Gardens 359Parc Linéaire du P’tit Train du

Nord 246Parc Maritime de

St-Laurent 276West Coast Railway

Heritage Park 48Parliament Hill (Ottawa) 239Parrsboro 313, 317Peggy’s Cove 13, 321, 326Pelee Island 225, 227Pender Island 67-8, 71Percé 296-7, 301Peterborough 214, 217Petrofka Orchard 152-3Petroglyphs Provincial Park 216petrol 22, 49, 186, 365Peyto Lake 135-6Pictou 341-2, 346Pinery Provincial Park 223-4,

227Pleasant Bay 333, 337Point Pelee National Park

224-5, 227Port Clements 94-5, 97Porte St-Louis 304Porteau Cove Provincial

Park 46Powell River 61Prairies, The 18Prince Albert 155-6, 157Prince Albert National Park

156, 157Prince Edward Island

National Park 17, 343-4public holidays 373

puffin-watching 353

QQuail’s Gate 88Quails’ Gate Winery 83Qualicum Beach 76, 79Québec City 304-5

Québécois culture 270

Rradio 362, 369Radium Hot Springs 100-1, 109rafting 104Rathtrevor Beach 76Regina 148, 149Revelstoke 112, 113Rimouski 299-300Ripley’s Aquarium of

Canada 236road distances 363road rules 60, 364-5Roberval 287, 290-1Rocher Percé 296Rose Spit 96, 97

Rosthern 154

Ssafety 364, 365, 373Saguenay 286, 290Saint Peter’s Bay 343Salt Spring Island 68-9, 71Saskatchewan River

Crossing 136Saskatoon 152, 157, 176-7Sault Ste Marie 186, 189seals 353Shannon Falls 48Shawinigan 268-9Sherbrooke 262shipwrecks 223Shubenacadie 340-1Sidney 66-7, 71Signal Hill 350Silver Trail, the 162Singing Sands 222Six Nations of the

Grand River 197Skagway 160, 165Skerwink Trail 353Skidegate 92-4

380

IND

EX N-S

skiing 52, 220, 247, 250-1, 257, 277

Skyline Trail, the 336Skylon Tower 203Slate Islands 187smoking 369snorkelling 223Sooke 70, 71Spiral Tunnels 103Squamish 53Squamish Lil’wat Cultural

Centre 52Stanley Park 38-9, 43Stawamus Chief 48Ste-Adèle 2F47-8, 252Ste-Agathe-des-Monts 249Ste-Anne de Beaupré 276-7, 281Ste-Irénée 279-80Ste Anne des Monts 299, 301Ste Flavie 294-5Ste Rose du Nord 289, 291St-Élie-de-Caxton 266-8St-Faustin-Lac-Carré 250St-Jérôme 246-7St-Sauveur-des-Monts 247, 252St Hubertus Estate Winery

85, 89St Jacobs 193St John’s 350-1Stewart Crossing 163Stratford 194-5, 198Sudbury 184-5, 189Summerhill Pyramid 89Summerhill Pyramid

Winery 85Summerlands Creamery 152Sunwapta Falls 139-40surfing 316Sutton 257-8, 263

Sydney 331, 337

TTable Rock 203Tadoussac 289, 291Takakkaw Falls 103Tantalus Lookout 49, 51Tantalus Mountain Range 49Tatamagouche 314Taylor Head Provincial Park

315-16, 317

Telegraph Cove 77-8, 79telephone services 23, 373Terra Nova National Park 356Thousand Island Parkway

229-32, 234Thousand Islands National

Park 232Thunder Bay 187-8tipping 23Tithegeh Chii Vitaii Lookout 172Tlell 93-4, 97Tobermory 223, 226-7Tofino 74-5, 79toll roads 194totem poles 39, 78, 92, 95, 117Tombstone Territorial Park 168Toronto 27, 236-7tourist information 373Tow Hill 96Townsite 61train travel 367transport 23, 366-73, see

also drivingTrinity 353, 357Trois-Rivières 269-70, 271Tuktoyaktuk 172, 173TV 369Twenty Valley Wine Country

208-9, 211Twillingate 356, 357

Tyrannosaurus rex 147

UUpper Canada Village 234

Vvacations 373Val Marie 146-7, 149Val-David 248-9, 252-3Vancouver 24-5, 114-15Vancouver Aquarium 39Vancouver Island 19Victoria 56-7, 62, 70, 71, 116-17Victoria Harbour Ferry 57Ville de Mont-Tremblant 250-1,

253visas 22, 373

Vulcan 127

Wwater parks 39, 247waterfalls

American Falls 203Athabasca Falls 140Brandywine Falls 51Bridal Veil Falls 203Horseshoe Falls 203Sunwapta Falls 139-40Takakkaw Falls 103

weather 22weights 369whale-watching 289, 324, 333Whistler 52, 53White Pass 160Whitehorse 162, 165wi-fi 23, 371Wilcox Ridge 137Wild Play Element Parks 60wildlife watching 20, 136, 277wine 20

festivals 84, 208tasting 12tips 83

wineriesBlomidon Estate Winery 325Chaberton Estate Winery 41Creekside Estate Winery 208Jost Winery 314Konzelmann Estate Winery

207-8Nk’Mip Cellars 84Pelee Island Winery 225Rossignol Estate Winery 342Sandhill Wines 84Sea Star Vineyards 67Strewn 207Tawse Winery 209Vista D’oro 41

Wolfe Island 231Wolfville 324-5, 327Woodland Cultural Centre 197World’s Largest Dinosaur 125Writing-on-Stone Provincial

Park 129

Zzip-lining 40, 268

381

IND

EX S-Z

CRAIG MCLACHLAN

Craig has covered destinations all over the globe for Lonely Planet for two decades. Based in Queenstown, New Zealand, for half the year, he runs an outdoor activities company and a sake brewery, then moonlights overseas for the other half, leading tours and writing for Lonely Planet. Craig has completed a number of adventures in Japan and his books are available on Amazon. Check out www.craigmclachlan.com

BRENDAN SAINSBURY

Born and raised in the UK in a town that never merits a mention in any guidebook (Andover, Hampshire), Brendan spent the holidays of his youth caravanning in the English Lake District and didn’t leave Blighty until he was 19. Making up for lost time, he’s since squeezed 70 countries into a sometimes precarious existence as a writer and professional vagabond. In the last 11 years, he has written over 40 books for Lonely Planet from Castro’s Cuba to the canyons of Peru.

LIZA PRADO

Liza has been a travel writer since 2003, when she made a move from corporate lawyering to travel writing (and never looked back). She’s written dozens of guidebooks and articles as well as apps and blogs to destinations throughout the Americas. She takes decent photos too. Liza is a graduate of Brown University and Stanford Law School. She lives very happily in Denver, Colorado, with her husband and fellow LP writer, Gary Chandler, and their two kids.

PHILLIP TANG

Phillip grew up on a typically Australian diet of pho and fish’n’chips before moving to Mexico City. A degree in Chinese- and Latin-American cultures launched him into travel and then writing about it for Lonely Planet’s Canada, China, Japan, Korea, Mexico, Peru and Vietnam guides. Writing at hellophillip.com, photos @mrtangtangtang, and tweets @philliptang.

ADAM KARLIN

Adam has contributed to dozens of Lonely Planet guidebooks, covering an alphabetical spread that ranges from the Andaman Islands to the Zimbabwe Border. As a journalist, he has written on travel, crime, politics, archeology and the Sri Lankan Civil War, among other topics. He has sent dispatches from every continent barring Antarctica (one day!) and his essays and articles have featured in the BBC, NPR, and multiple non-fiction anthologies. Adam is based out of New Orleans, which helps explain his love of wetlands, food and good music.

JOHN LEE

Born and raised in the historic UK city of St Albans, John slowly succumbed to the lure of overseas exotica, and arrived on Canada’s West Coast in 1993 to begin an MA in Political Science at the University of Victoria. Regular trips home to Britain ensued, along with stints living in Tokyo and Montréal, before he returned to British Columbia to become a full-time freelance writer in 1999. Now living in Vancouver, John specializes in travel writing and has contributed to more than 150 different publications around the world.

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STEVE FALLON

A native of Boston, Massachusetts, Steve graduated from Georgetown University with a Bachelor of Science in modern languages. After working for several years for an American daily newspaper and earning a Master’s degree in journalism, his fascination with the ‘new’ Asia and led him to Hong Kong, where he lived for over a dozen years, working for a variety of media and running his own travel bookshop. He has written or contributed to more than 100 Lonely Planet titles.

CAROLYN HELLER

Carolyn has been a full-time travel, food, and feature writer since 1996, writing for publications including LonelyPlanet.com, Forbes Travel Guide, Boston Globe, Los Angeles Times and Viator Travel. The author of several guidebooks, she’s also contributed to 50+ travel and restaurant guides for Lonely Planet and other publishers. She’s eaten her way across more than 40 countries on six continents.

ANNA KAMINSKI

Originally from the Soviet Union, Anna grew up in Cambridge, UK. She graduated from the University of Warwick with a degree in Comparative American Studies, a background in the history, culture and literature of the Americas and the Caribbean, and an enduring love of Latin America. Anna has contributed to almost 30 Lonely Planet titles. When not on the road, Anna calls London home.

SHAWN DUTHIE

Originally from Canada, Shawn has been traveling, studying and working around the world for the past 13 years. A love of travel merged with an interest in international politics, which led to several years of lecturing at the University of Cape Town and, now, as a freelance political risk consultant specialising in African countries. Shawn lives in South Africa and takes any excuse to travel around this amazing continent.

GREGOR CLARK

Gregor Clark is a US-based writer whose love of foreign languages and curiosity about what’s around the next bend have taken him to dozens of countries on five continents. Chronic wanderlust has also led him to visit all 50 states and most Canadian provinces on countless road trips through his native North America. Since 2000, Gregor has regularly contributed to Lonely Planet guides, with a focus on Europe and the Americas.

OLIVER BERRY

Oliver Berry is a writer and photographer from Cornwall. He has worked for Lonely Planet for more than a decade, covering destinations from Cornwall to the Cook Islands, and has worked on more than 30 guidebooks. He is also a regular contributor to many newspapers and magazines, including Lonely Planet Traveller. His writing has won several awards, including The Guardian Young Travel Writer of the Year and the TNT Magazine People’s Choice Award. His latest work is published at www.oliverberry.com.

OUR WRITERS

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end –

broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

REGIS ST LOUIS

Regis grew up in a small town in the American Midwest – the kind of place that fuels big dreams of travel – and he developed an early fascination with foreign dialects and world cultures. He spent his formative years learning Russian and a handful of Romance languages, which served him well on journeys across much of the globe. Regis has contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet titles, covering destinations across six continents. His travels have taken him from the mountains of Kamchatka to remote island villages in Melanesia, and to many grand urban landscapes. When not on the road, he lives in New Orleans.

RAY BARTLETT

Ray has been travel writing for nearly two decades, bringing Japan, Korea, Mexico, Tanzania, Guatemala, Indonesia, and many parts of the United States to life in rich detail for top-industry publishers, newspapers, and magazines. His acclaimed debut novel, Sunsets of Tulum, set in Yucatán, was a Midwest Book Review 2016 Fiction pick. Among other pursuits, he surfs regularly and is an accomplished Argentine tango dancer. He currently divides his time between homes in the USA, Japan, and Mexico.

MORE WRITERS

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541531st edition – Apr 2020ISBN 978 1 78868 334 0© Lonely Planet 2020 Photographs © as indicated 202010 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in Singapore

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