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Olivier Felicio Publisher | [email protected]

Leslie Wu Editor-in-Chief | [email protected]

Kathy Toufighi Art Director/Production Manager

Kathryn Hudson Associate Editor

Martha Uniacke Breen Copy Editor

CONTRIBUTORS Nyka Alexander, Jessica Ruby Bent, Vakis Boutsalis,Sarah B. Hood, Martin Irving, Barbara Kingstone,Duncan Parker, Andrea Wenckebach

SALESLucy Holden INTERNATIONAL SALES MANAGER/

MARKETPLACETEL. (514) 383-8311 FAX (514) 383-7021EMAIL [email protected]

Jeff Yamaguchi ADVERTISING SALESTEL. (416) 508-2382 FAX (416) 703-6392EMAIL [email protected]

Melissa Badr CIRCULATION/CUSTOMER SERVICE MANAGERTEL. (416) 203-7900 FAX (416) 703-6392EMAIL [email protected]

Head Office 60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3B8TEL. (416) 203-7900 FAX (416) 703-6392

Montreal Office 555 Chabanel Street West, Suite 1507Montreal, QC H2N 2J2TEL. (514) 383-8311 FAX (514) 383-7021TOLL FREE 1-877-789-5351

Olivier Felicio President | [email protected] Lowe Assistant to President | [email protected] Spiteri Art Director | [email protected]

Melanie Seth Accounting and AdministrationBryan Soroka Managing Editor

Samayi Campbell Editorial AssistantNikki Yeh Editorial Assistant

Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 141550 The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents ofany advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. Thepublisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’sliability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part,without the express written permission of the publisher. Canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial con-sideration under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic orhard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jeweller. and their affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet,disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. Please direct submissions to the Editor,Canadian Jeweller magazine.

ESTABLISHED 1879 MAY 2008 • VOL. 129, NO. 2

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Contentstable of

10 CJ M A Y 2 0 0 8

May 2008

Departments18 Editor’s Note

22 For the RecordTag Heuer shows off its Swiss watch museum; Polar BearDiamonds partners with a Canadian fashion designer;Baume & Mercier presents the fresh faces of its campaign.

33 Who’s NewsHarry Winston Diamond Corp. secures a new CFO;the GIA appoints a Canadian to its South African office;Jewelers Mutual president joins the JVC.

34 Market WatchA focus on gold jewellery.

36 BenchLearning the ins and outs of working with gold alloys.

38 EstateCJ looks at the humble beginnings of the North Americanjewellery industry: the gold rush.

40 Face ValueHow to appraise gold when value and costs are at anall-time high.

64 What’s On

73 Last Word

ON THE COVER:Gold necklace by Vianna Joias.

22

38

73

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table of

ContentsMay 2008

Features44 Gold Double Standard

The gold market moves towards high-end luxury, while smallerretailers struggle.

48 Worth Its WeightCJ highlights the biggest gold trends from Italy’s VicenzaOro fair.

50 Head of the ClassLearn to cash in by marketing to grads.

52 Bright IdeasDiscover innovative designs by visiting one of the nationwidestudent design shows.

58 Eastern PromisesChina entices customers back to gold.

60 Supply and DemandCJ visits the Israeli Rough Diamonds Conference.

62 Anchors AweighHow an Antigua jeweller’s shopbecame a tourist destinationfor cruise line passengers.

4414 CJ M A Y 2 0 0 8

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18 CJ M A Y 2 0 0 8

editor’snote

“The whole value ofthe dime is in knowing

what to do with it.”- Ralph Waldo Emerson

At the dawn of the molecular gastronomy era in cooking, chefs vied with oneanother to create the most outlandish dishes: scented air pillows, vegetablefoams and other strange culinary creations. The movement’s forefather, FerranAdria, however, took a different approach. What, he asked, gives food its value?Using chemical magic to make dishes like apple caviar, Adria sought todetermine the qualities that put caviar in high demand. In other words, if therarity is removed, does a luxury item such as beluga caviar still have value?

As gold prices continue to rise with no foreseeable end, a strange dichotomyarises in terms of intrinsic versus aesthetic value. Gold has traditionally heldan unusual position by being prized for its investment value as well as itsbeauty, with prices, determined by weight both in its raw form and as finishedjewellery. There are signs, however, that shifts are occurring in the market.

In this issue, Nyka Alexander reports from China (pg. 58), where somefashion-forward Asian consumers are buying gold-coloured items rather thanthe precious metal itself, prizing the look more than the material. On thedesign front, as prices rise, alternative materials, lighter gram weights andtimeless classics come to the forefront in gold jewellery. (See the trend piece onpg. 48). And when it comes to retail, although our high dollar shields ussomewhat from the high price of gold, Sarah B. Hood reports that retailers arestill being cautious when stocking their inventories, watching for a future pricedrop (pg. 44).

Perhaps as we move into a new gold rush, consumer attitudes towards goldwill come to change as well. “It is inappropriate to value gold solely on thebasis of gold content and to simply drop it on a scale to work out a price,”writes appraiser Duncan Parker in “State of Flux” (pg. 40). After all, value is aconstantly shifting concept, based as much on necessity as desire. As writerTerry Pratchett points out, the item of value in a goldmine isn’t the gold...it’sthe pickaxe.

Leslie WuEditor-in-Chief

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22 CJ M A Y 2 0 0 8

fortherecord news|trends|events

To accompany the opening of its newheadquarters in La Chaux-de-Fonds,Switzerland, Tag Heuer flew 140journalists from around the world tothis sleepy town outside of Neuchatelfor the unveiling of Tag Heuer 360, amuseum dedicated to the 150-year-old brand.Museum designers Eric Carlson

(of Paris architectural firmCarbondale)and “dUCKS Scéno”, a specialist inscenography and museography, havebrought three elements of watchmakinginto play in the 200-square-metre space:the crystal, the timeline and the dial.Punning on the crystal glass element

of a watch, designers placed a bevelledcircular video screen around thecircumference of the ceiling, with apanoramic view composed of 12 highperformance retro-projectors, synchro-nized into a single moving 360°centripetal image. Former ambassadors

and forerunners of the brand lookdown from these displays like benevo-lent deities, complete with their owndirectional beam of sound for thosepositioned directly below.Further encompassing the brand’s

history, designers placed a 50-metre-long brushed aluminum band inlaidwith a flush glass around the fourwalls. The Tag story is told through 16display cases, eight video screens, 51backlit images and text, as viewersmove through the space (clockwise, ofcourse). The history of the brand isilluminated through chronographs,key dates, texts, quotations and illus-trations, as well as period documents,collector’s items and films.In order to display the watches them-

selves, the designers turned to theshape of the watch face for inspiration.A carved path leads viewers through asingle, seamless, one-metre-deep floor

of polished black Corian. Nine hori-zontal circular displays, serving as “sub-dials” to the watch face conceit, containtimepieces based on the nine themes ofthe collections: Great Inventions, FromPocket to Wrist, Modern Times, TheDream of Flight, Legendary Tracks andRaces, Famous Partners, The Call of theSea, Technology + Function = Design,and Watches for Women. For viewingease, each rosewood and brushedaluminum display is hydraulicallyequipped to lift and lower the islands ofwatches, and 50 large magnifyinglenses of varying sizes are strategicallyplaced throughout the surface.Founding patriarch and honourary

chairman Jack Heuer was on hand, aswas company president and CEO Jean-Christophe Babin, who officially openedthe museum with 23-year-old FormulaOne wunderkind Lewis Hamilton, acurrent Tag brand ambassador.

One: Formula Onewinner Lewis Hamilton.Two: Tag Heuer’s new

headquarters inLa Chaux-de-Fonds.Three: Looking back

on the brand’s history.Four: The Tag Heuer 360

museum was inspiredby watch design.

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AMomentinTimeBY LESLIE WU

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fortherecord

FRESH FACESWatchmaker Baume & Mercier has called oneveryday women to represent its Diamant watchline. An international casting call was held to findfive modern muses who represent the brand’stouted values of creativity and authenticity.The winners, Eteri of Russia, Madhura of India,Esme of Malaysia, Julie of France and Najet ofGermany were brought to Paris for three days.Primped and photographed by well-known Frenchphotographer Laurence Laborie, the five womendonned Diamant pieces and are now theinternational faces of the new campaign.

24 CJ M A Y 2 0 0 8

CANADIAN DESIGN DUOPolar Bear Diamonds has sponsored the New York fashion week debut of Toronto designer Arthur Mendonça, a rising talent since hisfirst collection in 2003. The show paired Mendonça’s modern metallic looks with custom-designed pieces by Polar Bear creative directorReuben Tom Kee, who has also designed jewellery for fellow acclaimed Canadian designer Andy Thê-Anh. The signature collection

features Canadian diamonds from Polar Bear’s Northwest Territory mines set inwhite, rose and yellow gold.

One: Models wearing Mendonça’sdesigns and Tom Kee’s customjewellery. Two: Eteri of Russiain Baume & Mercier’s new ad

campaign. Three: Baume &Mercier’s Diamant watch.1.

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M A Y 2 0 0 8 CJ 25

DE BEERS TAPS UPSCALE MARKETDe Beers has opened its first diamond jewellery store in HongKong, within the luxe Landmark shopping mall in the Centraldistrict. The 2,200-square-foot store offers amix of high-end andmore accessibly priced pieces. All jewellery, watches and loosestones are displayed in cases that can be approached from allsides, similar to those used in De Beers’ other new locations. Thestore’s location was chosen after a two-year search, reportsWWD.com.“We have been looking to open a store inHong Kongfor a while, considering what Hong Kong is to the luxurymarket,but we waited until we found the right location,” says De BeersCEO Guy Lemarie. “For us, location is decisive—we wouldrather open later and have the right location.” A second storeis slated to open later this year in the same district.

LONGINES IS OFF TO THE RACESFor the second year in a row, after a 10-year absence, Longines is back in the starting gate of the FIS AlpineWorld Cup, acting as officialtimekeeper. Twenty-three races were timed, starting on November 10 in Levi, Finland, and ending on March 16 in Bormio, Italy.The Swiss watchmaker has also signed a contract with Norwegian skiing champion Aksel Lund Svindal, appointing the 25 year olddownhill world champion as the new Ambassador of Elegance.

The brand’s association with skiing began with the Chamonix in 1933, evolving with its introduction of the first luminousscoreboard in 1962.

One: Hong Kong has become an international luxuryshopping destination. Two: Norwegian skier

Aksel Lund Svindal is the new face of Longines.Three: Longines’ 1967 sponsored race in Les Cèdres.

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26 CJ M A Y 2 0 0 8

fortherecord

GIA OPENS SOUTH AFRICAN OFFICEThe Gemological Institute of America (GIA)has opened a lab in Johannesburg, SouthAfrica. The lab now accepts any size dia-mond, coloured stone or pearl from clientsin the region. “The institute is very excitedto begin participating as fully as we can in theindustry in this region, and will eventuallyoffer classes, seminars and scholarships,” sayssenior vice-president ThomasM.Moses. TheGIA actually began work in South Africa lastsummer, when it took over the operation ofa local organization, the Jewelry Council ofSouth Africa.

DIAMOND SMUGGLER CAUGHTA stash of uncut diamonds and other roughgemstones was seized at the EdmontonInternational Airport from a central Africanman trying to enter the country, according tothe Edmonton Journal.Border security officers found over 180

carats of rough diamonds, 43 grams of rawgold and hundred of carats of rough gem-stones, including ruby, sapphire, garnet andtourmaline, that the man had tried to con-ceal in his clothes.“The single parcel of diamonds has a

tremendous amount of criminality to it,”Constable Kelly Ross of the RCMP’s K-Division Diamond Program told the pressin a statement. “In Africa, the stones aresmuggled between countries, and used tofacilitate criminal activity. They are furthersmuggled into Canada to be laundered intothe legitimate jewellery business.” TheRCMP and border officials are investigatingthe case under the Export and Import ofRough Diamonds Act and the Customs Act.

IGI GOES MOBILEThe International Gemological Institute haslaunched a corporate polished diamond-grading program in Botswana to support TheDiamond Trading Co. and De Beers' ongoingefforts in the region.The IGI has also unveiled its first mobile

laboratory in theDominican Republic,whichwill service the country’s jewellery manufac-turing plans including those in the free-tradezones of San Pedro de Macoris and SantoDomingo. Launched in late February, the labhas already graded and certified almost 3,000pieces of jewellery.

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One: Johannesburg is the home of the GIA’s newest lab.Two: GIA director of South Africa Leslie Milner.

022.24-26_CJMay 08 FTR:Layout 1 5/2/08 9:42 AM Page 26

The CGTA Gift Show takes an evolutionary leap forward, elevating the buying experience to a higher dimension. Beginning in Fall 2008, the CGTA Gift Show will:

• expand to incorporate the new Toronto Congress Centre north building

• début a series of new, themed product areas, including Life’s Luxuries, which focuses on what’s new in jewellery and fashion accessories

• launch a myriad of exciting new feature areas, galleries and events

• offer an unprecedented range of complimentary training sessions, retail consultations andother learning opportunities

• introduce a new series of in-depth retail presentations by an extraordinary lineup of designers, celebrities and world renowned retail experts

And that’s just the start! The CGTA Gift Show is not only bigger, but better than ever. So now, more than ever, it’s the one retail event you simply can’t miss!

Sunday, August 10 to Thursday, August 14, 2008International Centre • Toronto Congress CentreOwned and Operated by the Canadian Gift and Tableware Association

www.cgta.org (800) 611-6100EXTENDED SHOW HOURS: Until 7pm Monday & Tuesday

MORE TO SEE

MORE TO DO

MORE TO BUY

This 5-DAY EVENT is Canada's most important gift and home retail buying opportunity – Don't miss it!

The CGTA Gift Show is Bigger and Better than Ever!


ALARM SYSTEM SHUT DOWNSome American jewellers havelost their alarm systems afterthe Federal CommunicationsCommission (FCC) ruled that

cellphone companies wereno longer required toprovide analog service.It is estimated that

nearly one million of the20 million alarm systems in

the U.S. rely on analog radioequipment, rather than the

newer digital technology. Mainly wireless systems installed before2006 use analog, as well as older cellphones. “Although cell carriersare not required to drop their support of the AMPS service, thisclearly seems to be the intention of the majority of cellular carriersat this time,” says David Sexton, vice-president of loss prevention atJewelers Mutual Insurance Co.

The FCC does expect that the majority of service providersconverted their clients’ systems before discontinuing service.

However, the FCC regulates cellular providers differently fromCanadian organizations, and there are no plans to discontinueanalog service in Canada as of yet.

ZALE DOWNSIZESLarge North American jewellery retailer Zale Corp. will be closingmore stores and cutting 20 percent of its headquarters staff in orderto save over $65 million US annually, according to The CanadianPress.

GIA DONATES LATEST BOOKThe Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has donated a thou-sand copies of its latest book, American Cut: the First 100 Years, topublic libraries across the U.S. Written by the GIA association’s AlGilbeston, the volume follows the history of American diamondcutting, outlining how new techniques and inventions shaped theindustry. “Our donation of American Cut to 1,000 libraries makesthis book easily accessible to the general public or members of thetrade, which aligns with our mission to help educate the publicabout gemology,” says Dona Dirlam, director of the GIA libraryand information centre.

fortherecord

Revolution.I N T R O D U C I N G T H E N E W

canadianjeweller.com It’s all about you.

Read current and past issues online.

Listen to articles and podcasts.

Find it on our 50,000 item Buyers’ Guide.

Discuss & debate on our forums.

Source & Share in our retailer-only space.

Get published.

Analogcell servicewill also be interrupted shouldproviders drop the network.


AVOIDING CREDIT FRAUDWith credit card fraud on the rise, the Jewelers

Vigilance Council has put together afew handy tips for jewellers tospot counterfeit and altered

cards, which can often betricky to distinguish.

First, retailersshould make sure

that the name on thecard matches the customer’s iden-

tification. Also, the signature on the back of thecard should be compared to the signature on the sales slip

(also, clearly, both signatures should match the embossed name on thecard).While high-tech and sophisticated counterfeitsmight not be easilyspotted by the average shopkeeper, each card should nevertheless bechecked to spot obvious tampering.

Generally,when retailers follow these basic rules, there will likely notbe a charge-back even if the transaction later turns out to be fraudulent.

Tips for safe credit card sales:� If suspicious of a cardholder, call the credit card authorization

centre and ask for a Code 10, which means you have a sketchysituation, then follow the operator’s instructions.

� Check the front of the card:Visa accounts should begin with a“4”,MasterCard with a “5” and American Express with a “3”.

� After swiping the card through the terminal, check to make surethe account number on the sales receipt matches the number onthe card.

CJA GETS LEGALThe Canadian Jewellers Association (CJA) is work-ing todesign adisclaimer form for retail jewellers.The document is geared to protect retailersfrom risks like loss during shipping, dam-age to gems during setting or repairs forpieces purchased elsewhere by customers.Once finalized by lawyers, the formwill be dis-tributed to CJAmembers.

fortherecord

One: Checking credit cards for obvious signs of tampering is the first step to avoid-ing fraud. Two: The CJA’s disclaimer is intended to protect retailers’ interests.

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Open Blue 11/20/06 10:25 AM Page 1

A Gateway to Market

We've revamped & expanded our online buyer's guide to include a new range of products. The new Buyer's Guide is a gateway to the industry, allowing suppliers to showcase their products and retailers to browse them. But that's not all. Retailers can get free sites using their suppliers' inventory from the Buyer's Guide. Canadian Jeweller, in partnership with OpenBlue Networks, is offering retailers in store kiosk sites as well as consumer-facing retail sites.

Free For Suppliers

We've eliminated the time and expense involved with putting your inventory online. Now you can add all of your inventory to our Buyer's Guide site at no charge and you can add as much inventory as you like with no preset limit. If you are a supplier of jewellery, watches, clocks or giftware you can take advantage of this offer.

We also offer an optional sharing program. Once your inventory is on the Buyer's Guide, you can share it withretailers on OpenBlue Networks for as little as $6.95 per month. You can even offer your retailers their own free sites that contain your inventory.

Solutions for Retailers

If you don't have a site or you would like compliment the site you have with one that you can use as a sales tool, we have solutions for you. We offer basic/kiosk sites for free that includes the inventory of up to 4 suppliers; sites with unlimited suppliers is available by subscription. We offer a wide and growing selection of site styles. Completely custom sites are available too. Visit www.openbluestores.com and get online in three easy steps.

For more information on retailer & supplier programs, contact OpenBlue Networks at 1-647-722-5676 or viae-mail to [email protected].

*For Pay As You Go suppliers plans, suppliers prepay annually the monthly fee of $6.95 per retailer. **There are no monthly charges for free sites, however a one time $39 set-up fee applies. Domain registration not included.

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32 CJ M A Y 2 0 0 8

fortherecord

WENGER’S GOES ONLINESwiss Peak Ltd., Canadian distributor of Wenger’s Swiss MilitaryWatches, has joined Open-Blue network. “The system provides retailers with online website product, offering optionsquickly and at minimal cost,” says jewellery sales manager Stefan Woyslaw, explaining thatthe firm hopes to better market its brand using data collected by the system.

SHINING STARSToronto stargazers experienced the glitz of the Oscars when diamond house Kwiat broughtits Red Carpet Tour to Birks’ flagship store this March. The store was selected as the exclusive

Toronto showcase for a collection of jewelsby the New York-based diamond jewellerycompany that has been a red carpet favouriteof actresses like Sharon Stone, Halle Berryand Charlize Theron.The featured designs include diamond

dress clips worn by “Atonement” star andBest Supporting Actress nominee SaoirseRonan to the 2008 Academy Awards,cufflinks worn by “Sweeney Todd” BestActor nominee Johnny Depp, cufflinks andstuds worn by“Michael Clayton”Best Actornominee George Clooney and the diamondstuds in which Broadway star KristinChenoweth performed “That’s How YouKnow” from the musical “Enchanted.”“This is a rare opportunity to try on

exclusive pieces worn by A-list celebritieson the red carpet,” says Viviana Diamanti,general manager of the Birks location.Before arriving at Birks, the collection wasfeatured at the Four Seasons Hotel in Bev-erly Hills as part of an Oscar suite hostedby Kwiat for the 2008 Academy Awards.

PDAC DRAWS RECORD NUMBERSThe Prospectors and Developers Associationof Canada (PDAC) International Trade Show,held in March, was attended by an estimated18,000 visitors in a larger space within theMetro Toronto Convention Centre.With nearly 35 percent more exhibiting

companies than last year’s show, over 650organizations came together to discusstopics like market outlook, new discoveries,environmental concerns and more. [CJ]

CLARIFICATION AND CORRECTIONPleasenote thatVoluntaryCodeofConduct forAuthenticating Canadian Diamond Claimsreferenced in CJ Feb/March authenticatesa member’s claim of Canadian origin of adiamond through a third party verifiableaudit trail back to the mine it came from. It isthe mandate of the Canadian Diamond CodeCommittee (an independent entity) toadminister the Code. Also, The DiamondManufacturersAssociationofCanadahasbeena full member of the International DiamondManufacturersAssociation since June 2007.

Diamond bracelet from Birks’ ownDestinee collection.


TORONTO, ONTARIOAlan Mayne has replaced Alice Murphyas chief financial officer for Harry WinstonDiamond Corporation. Previously holdingthe same position with CHUM Limited, oneof the country’s largest media companies,Mayne also has banking experience in bothCanada and the United Kingdom as manag-ing director for TD Securities.

CARLSBAD, CALIFORNIAThe Gemological Institute of America (GIA)has announced that Montreal native Marie-Josée Trépanier has taken over as managingdirector of Southern Africa. She will beresponsible for managing onsite projects andsetting up new facilities in the region.With adegree in business law from the LondonSchool of Economics, Trépanier also bringsoperational experience to her role atthe GIA, as she was most recently CEOfor Dubai’s Polygon CMCC, where sheexpanded the Institute’s presence intoMumbai, Hong Kong and China. In fact, it isthis knowledge of the region’s business thatappealed to the GIA, says president DonnaBaker, who explained in a statement that theorganization will be looking to Trépanier toexpand its African presence.

NEENAH, WISCONSINPresident and CEO of Jewelers MutualInsurance Darin Kath has been elected tothe New York-based Jewelers VigilanceCommittee’s board of directors. Kath alsoserves on the board of the American GemSociety and Jewelers Board of Trade,among others. “The JVC serves the jew-ellery industry in upholding the ethics andintegrity of the industry, values mutuallyembraced by Jewelers Mutual,” says Kath ofhis recent appointment.

DALLAS, TEXASThe votes are in and The American GemTrade Association’s newly elected board ofdirectors has been announced. RobertBentley was ushered in as vice-president,while Betty Sue King of King’s Ransom willtake on the secretarial role. BenjaminHackman, Bill Larson and Gerry Manningwere also elected as the association’sdirectors. Serving three-year terms in theirrespective positions, the newly appointedofficers join current president BarbaraLawrence and eleven other board members.

NEW YORK, NEW YORKThe Platinum Guild International, themarketing arm of the platinum jewelleryindustry, has appointed Heather ZacharyRogoff as manager of public relations.With experience at several other high-endjewellery organizations like Patek Philippe,Links of London and Mont Blanc, Rogoffhas been in the industry for just over sixyears. “We already have a great lineup ofevents and media initiatives for 2008,” saysRogoff, who is responsible for day-to-daymanagement as well as the development ofnew programs.

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M A Y 2 0 0 8 CJ 33

IRVING, TEXASLarge jewellery retailer Zale Corporation hasannounced the appointment of two newdirectors to its board, Richard Breeden andJames Cotter. “The management team, led bynewly appointed president Neal Goldberg, isexecuting an operating strategy that isfocused on financial discipline and therevitalization of the company’s core mallbusiness, which we believe will position thiscompany for improved performance,” sayschairman John Lowe Jr. Breeden hails fromthe financial sector, as former CEO ofBreeden Partners and Breeden CapitalManagement, which manages more than $1billion in assets and owns over 18 percent ofthe outstanding Zale shares. Cotter was also afounding partner of Breeden CapitalManagement, and was previously a seniorpartner with the Simpson Thacher & Bartlettlaw firm.One: Marie-Josée Trépanier. Two: Darin Kath.

Three: Heather Zachary Rogoff.

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marketwatch

FOCUS ON GOLD JEWELLERYIn this issue, we look at consumer shopping preferences in the gold jewellery category from February 2007 throughFebruary 2008. In gold jewellery, earrings outpace all other subcategories by a wide margin (see chart). Within thatcategory, hoops remain strong along with most of the market (which is perhaps to be expected given the revived interestin 1980s styles). For years, white metal has been extremely strong but in gold earrings we see a lot of yellow and twotone. This may be the case because earrings have traditionally tended to move according to fashion trends more thanrings. In addition, women will tend to accumulate more earrings in their lifetimes than any other jewellery items, dueto their lower price point.

In rings, we have some two tone rings and a plain band. Surprisingly, there is no white gold at all. But if you everthought flexible rings were niche items, look again. The first, third and sixth items are all flexible rings. It is also unusualthat religious crosses beat rings for the number two spot in gold jewellery. But is it really surprising? According toStatistics Canada data, 77 percent of Canadian identify themselves as Christian while 44 percent of Canadians say thattheir religion is very important to them.

Elsewhere, bracelets are balanced between engravable and link-only styles with two tone links predominating.

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OPENBLUE NETWORKS & CANADIAN JEWELLER

BUSINESS INTELLIGENCEREPORT

BY ROBIN GAMBHIR

GOLD JEWELLERY CATEGORIES BY POPULARITYFEBRUARY 2007-FEBRUARY 2008

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M A Y 2 0 0 8 CJ 35

TOP 10 STYLES IN ALL GOLD JEWELLERY CATEGORIES

TOP 10 STYLES IN BRACELETS

TOP 10 STYLES IN EARRINGS

TOP 10 STYLES IN RELIGIOUS JEWELLERY-CROSSES

TOP 10 STYLES IN RINGS

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36 CJ M A Y 2 0 0 8

Fads come and go. Though metals like platinum and titanium have seen an increase inpopularity lately, gold continues to be the metal of choice for most jewellers, designers andconsumers. Yet while it is incredibly popular and bench jewellers work day in and day outwith goldcasting, fabricating, repairing and setting stones in it, few work with the various

alloys to their fullest advantage. Many goldsmiths (and most customers)choose different gold alloys because they like the colours, but may notknow a lot about the various advantages or disadvantages of each.The most common gold alloys produce yellow, white, red (or rose

gold) and green gold. There is a myriad of formulas and combinationsof metals that will produce these colours, and any good goldsmithingbook will list different metal combinations and percentages of thosemetals for those brave enough (or with enough time on their hands) toproduce them. Indeed, all of these colours, along with matching solders,

are available in various forms from almost any smelter or refiner. However, blue, purpleand black gold (which isn’t actually an alloy at all) are rarely used, and have distinctdisadvantages in terms of working properties. Purple gold, for example, which accordingto the World Gold Council is a mixture of gold and aluminum, can really only be used asa type of pseudo-stone to be set in jewellery, as it is too brittle to be worked by anyconventional means.

bench

AlloyAwarenessThe ins and outs of workingwith gold alloys.BY ANDREA WENCKEBACH

Rose gold trio by Isabelle Fa.Photo courtesy of SIC.

036-037_CJ AprMay 08 Bench:Layout 1 4/29/08 5:12 PM Page 36

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A discussion with Anita Anderson of Imperial Smelting andRefining in Markham, Ontario, reveals some of theproblems goldsmiths face when dealing with the variouscommon alloys. Yellow gold alloys are good for manyapplications such as casting and setting stones as well asgeneral repairs, and they are the alloys most goldsmiths arefamiliar with, since they seem to present the least problems.

Many goldsmiths have perfected their casting orsoldering techniques with yellow alloys, but this sometimespresents a problem when switching to other alloys. Whitegold alloys, for example, need much higher meltingtemperatures, but many jewellers don’t adjust their castingtechniques. According to Imperial Smelting and Refining,one of the firm’s 14K yellow gold alloys has a liquidustemperature of 910°C, while one of its 14K palladiumwhite gold alloys has a liquidus temperature of 1094°C—which means both the flask and metal need to be hotterwhen using white alloys than they are when casting mostyellow golds. White gold alloys also have a differentdensity than yellow, and this has to be adjustedaccordingly, both when carving the wax and weighing themetal. Failure to account for these changes often leads toporosity or partial fill problems.

Many goldsmiths don’t have the time or equipment toperfect their white gold technique. “With white gold, I justsend it out [to a casting house],” says Marc Dubé, co-ownerof Dubé Designs in Timmins, Ont. “I just won’t botherwith [casting] it.” In addition, white gold is less pliable thanyellow, and this may make it more difficult to use in certainapplications. “[White gold alloys] harden very quicklywhen making wire and are not as malleable as yellow gold.So I just order wire ready-made,” explains Dubé. ImperialSmelting and Refining also cautions that some grain usedfor casting doesn’t have the ductility to make somethinglike wire or sheet that needs to be rolled down or drawn.The firm recommends contacting its office to obtainsuggestions about using non-standard alloys.

The other well-known problem with white gold alloys isthe issue of contact dermatitis. It is the nickel in the whitegold alloy that produces a rash when the metal comes incontact with the skin. Rhodium-plating a customer’sexisting nickel alloy jewellery can help alleviate theproblem. “Plating, however, tends to wear off,” says PeterNoaks of Nortons Jewellers Ltd. in Charlottetown, P.E.I.,and is therefore only a temporary solution. Customersneed to be made aware that they will have to have the itemof jewellery re-plated on a regular basis. For custom-made

jewellery, a palladium white gold alloy can easily replacenickel-containing alloys. However, you must be carefulwhen repairing these items, as most white gold solders alsocontain nickel. “I wanted a white gold wedding ring,” saysKaren Browning of Whitehorse, Yukon. “The goldsmithsuggested a palladium white gold ring instead [of the nickelwhite gold alloy] because I have a reaction to white gold.”Browning didn’t have a single problem with wearing thering until she had to have it sized. After the sizing, the ringbegan to give her a rash. The goldsmith realized afterwardthat she had sized the ring with a nickel solder and that tinybit of nickel was affecting her customer’s skin.

Bayot Heer, designer, goldsmith and winner of severalSpectrum Awards, likes to use green gold alloys because ofthe colour. “Pale green stones do really well with greengold,” he explains. While green gold is most often used forcolour alone, green alloys are the most malleable of thevarious gold alloys. Because of this malleability, green goldis ideal for bezel-setting delicate stones. “I had to set amalachite in a brooch,” explains Jackie Dubé, co-owner ofDubé Designs. “It’s soft, like pushing over fine silver. Itworks really well and there’s a lot less chance of damaginga stone when using a soft metal.

“[However] because green gold is so soft, it’s hard toclean up,” cautions Dubé. “There were a lot of drag marksthat were hard to get rid of.”

Red or rose golds have been popular in Europe as well asSouth America over the years, yet there hasn’t been much inCanada until recently. “We’ve had a lot more orders this yearfor rose gold,” says Amanda of Stuller Service Centres ofToronto. “But, I haven’t heard good things [from ourcustomers] about it,” she continues. “It’s hard to solder andwork with.” Heer doesn’t work with red golds often either, ashe hasn’t found a good red alloy to fabricate with. “It’s a bittemperamental, but I find red golds do complement certainstones,” he says. Red gold alloys, like white gold alloys, arequite hard in comparison with green and yellow gold alloys.They don’t scratch as easily as yellow or green golds and takea polish quite well; however, higher-carat red alloys, or thosecontaining only copper and gold, do tend to crack, writesPeter Rowe of the Orchid Forum. Red gold alloys, like whitegold alloys, have certain properties that mean goldsmithsneed to spend extra time to get good results.

Whichever alloy is used, goldsmiths need to spend timethinking about its application and working properties.Once these things are taken into consideration, most alloyswill work well. [CJ]

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38 | CJ M A Y 2 0 0 8

The nineteenth century saw many great innova-tionswithin the jewellery industry—from improvedmachinery to new diamond mining practices andeasier access to raw materials. The most importantevent, however, was the discovery of gold in NorthAmerica; the series of gold rushes that followed putNorth America firmly on the map as a manufac-turer of high-quality jewellery.Gold had been known to civilization for thou-

sands of years; Egyptian hieroglyphics mentionedthe precious metal as long as five millennia ago. At

first, Africa was the major source of gold throughout the world, and was the birthplace of itslongstanding associationwithwealth and power, as it was originally used in creating objects fortribal chiefs in Africa.By the Middle Ages, royal courts throughout Europe began amassing collections of crown

jewels. By the fifteenth century, stories of abundant gold deposits in the Americas, most notablyin the South American Andes, became the chief impetus for expeditions and explorers to theNew World. The industrial revolution of the nineteenth century advanced the practice ofjewellery-making immensely, especially in the relatively young nations of America and Canada,though most jewellery on the North American market was still imported from Europe.During this century of major gold rushes, gold miners colonized much of the remaining

unsettled parts of America and Canada. The sheer amount of gold released on the marketsallowed jewellery manufacturers in both countries to produce high-quality jewels for less

The North Americanjewellery industry’shumble beginningsproved to be more thanjust a flash in the pan.BY JESSICA RUBY BENT

GoldenOpportunities

038_039.CJ.May_Estate:Layout 1 4/30/08 6:32 PM Page 38

cost. The volume of jewellery created in North Americaand exported around the world sired an industry thatcame to dominate the world market.It was in White County, Georgia, that the first gold rush

sparked the imaginations of explorers everywhere. NativeAmericans had been panning for gold along theChattahoochee River for centuries when Frank Loganestablished a gold mine in 1829. Soon, mines were runningin the nearby counties of Lumpkin, Union and Cherokee.By 1830, the town of Auraria further north became themain centre of gold production; overall, almost 300 troyounces of gold were mined per day in North Georgia. In1838, the U.S. federal government established a mint inDahlonega (north of Auraria); however, within ten years,word of an even bigger discovery of gold in California hadenticed many of the miners living in North Georgia to headacross the entire stretch of the United States to the WestCoast. The boomtowns of the Georgia gold rush were leftbehind, many vastly reduced in size and importance.The California gold rush began in 1848, in the Coloma

Valley at the base of California’s Sierra Mountains. Theoriginal discovery of gold in California was met with muchdismay by the owner of the land on which it was found; JohnSutter had set out to create his fortune in lumber mills andagriculture. He tried to contain this discovery, but soonword spread, and within a relatively short period, over300,000 prospectors arrived from all over the continent aswell as Europe and Australia. The first miners, mostly fromacross America, were known as “forty-niners” for their earlyarrival in 1849. The mass immigration of newcomers led tothe establishment of California as a state in 1850, and SanFrancisco became the most significant boomtown of thenineteenth century. Originally nothing more than ashantytown of about a thousand people, within 24 months,it exploded into a city of 25,000. By the summer of 1848,several enterprising businessmen had placed articles in papersand set up gold prospecting companies in anticipation ofmajor discoveries. This region of California became knownas the “Mother Lode”. It was the determination (anddesperation) of the California prospectors that led to manydevelopments in gold mining that are still used today; forexample, in order to process more gravel than they could bysimple panning, they began to divert the streams of water toexpose the river beds.By 1853, an estimated 12 million troy ounces of gold

were removed. Although history dates the end of theCalifornian gold rush to 1855, innovations in gold miningcontinued to advance, as the precious metal became morearduous to extract. Hydraulic mining commenced in theColoma Valley in 1853; this means of removal produced anadditional 11 million troy ounces of gold in the next 30years. Eventually, dredging for gold at the turn of thetwentieth century led to a further 20 million troy ounces

of gold being removed from California’s gold region.Luckily for many gold prospectors, just as the gold rush in

California waned in 1858, reports of another massive golddeposit emerged. While this strike was also on the west coast,this time it was much further north. Much as the gold atSutter’s Mill put California on the map, flakes of the preciousmetal found in northern remote areas formed the basis of thefounding of British Columbia, which the British established tosupport the anticipated influx of people and industry thatwould accompany the new discovery. News of the FraserCanyon gold rush reached San Francisco, and prospectors fledto the Thompson River, site of the precious metal find, by thethousands. However, their enthusiasm was soon disappointed:the Fraser Canyon gold turned out to be insufficient to supportthe 30,000 prospectors who had invadedVictoria (which at thetime had a population of a mere 500). By 1860, most of themeither returned to America or set out to explore other regionsof British Columbia for the precious gold.While gold was discovered in the Cariboo region of British

Columbia in 1858, news of the discovery did not leak until1861, when reports of gold were published in many of theContinent’s newspapers, and spawned the Cariboo rush.Again,thousands of prospectors moved to the interior of B.C. andsettled the region. By 1863, $80 million of gold (in currentvalue) had beenmined from theCariboo rush; within two yearsthough, the Cariboo production dwindled to almost nil. Evenso, many of the prospectors settled down in the region andcreated many towns and communities in the interior of B.C.Gold was discovered in the Klondike River, close to Dawson

City, Yukon, in 1896, setting off the last great gold rush of thecentury. Within 18 months, 40,000 prospectors arrived in theKlondike. After many of them faced near-starvation in thebitter winter months, regulations were put in place to ensureadequate food supplies for future winters, and this time, theRCMP tightly monitored the gold rush. Despite the harshclimate, Dawson City became the largest city in Canada; at thesame time, the population of Vancouver more than doubledand Edmonton’s population swelled to three times itsprevious size. More than a billion dollars of gold was minedduring the Klondike rush,most of it in the ground around theKlondike River, requiring prospectors to dig for the riches. By1900, gold was found in Alaska, and the prospectors leftDawson and its surrounding communities for more fabledriches and wild dreams.Gold rushes, large and small, continued into the

twentieth century. Machinery became more sophisticated,and instead of prospectors, corporations claimed most ofthe territories and profits. The true “golden age” was thenineteenth century, when a single man could literallystrike it rich. Truly, it was the innovations of theseindividuals throughout North America that, for nearly acentury, fostered the most commanding jewellery industryin the world. [CJ]

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Gold. It conjures images of pirate treasure, sunken Spanish galleons with spilled richeswaiting to be discovered deep in the ocean—or maybe an elderly woman with a few goldrings in her sock drawer.

But gold is a mainstay of the jewellery industry. Gold is sold to people who want to hedgetheir shorts (or something like that); it is a solid and reliable thing in which to invest (so Iam told). Indeed, it seems there is no end to the optimism about gold. We see it in so manysituations and contexts, so strangely there many different ways of appraising somethingthat is so singular.

Pure gold is traded in the open market and is essentially the same price around theworld. When this was written, gold was selling for $908.00 per ounce and the Canadiandollar was running at par with the U.S. dollar. (I include this figure because we are talkingabout gold, and gold and the dollar are both in a constant state of flux.) However, when itcomes to jewellery, there are major cultural differences about the value placed on gold. Inthe Eastern world, gold has traditionally been a bullion investment and sold for not muchmore than the daily spot gold price. In the Western world, gold jewellery is generallyalloyed and sold on the basis of design, style and labour—the gold component may be acomparatively small part of the total cost.

Stateof

FluxAppraising gold meanstaking shifting valuesand costs into account.BY DUNCAN PARKER

facevalue

Shoppers peruse the goods at a 24Kgold store in Bangkok, Thailand.

040/042_CJ AprMay 08 Facevalue:Layout 1 4/29/08 5:16 PM Page 40

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In the traditional Chinese jewellery market, gold is sold as24-karat (“999” or 999/1000ths) pure. 24-karat gold jewelleryis appraised based on the daily price, plus a small amountfor labour. These gold items are sold on a retail per-gramprice by jewellers around the world. We appraise this goldfor very specific prices because that is the way it is sold,whether you are in Hong Kong, Bangkok or Vancouver. Inthe South Asian jewellery market, 22K is standard (“916” or91.6 percent gold), and this karat of gold is also sold on abullion basis, plus a little extra for alloying and labour.Most gold jewellery in the Western world is made from

what we like to call “karat gold,” which is a term generallyused to describe alloys or gold that has been mixed withother metals to create something less than pure gold. Thealloying of gold serves several purposes. First, it makesgold that is more durable than 24-karat. Second, itproduces gold of different colours. Also of note, alloyinggold produces metal that is less costly than pure gold, aslower gold content means a lower cost of raw materials.The Canadian Precious Metals Marking Act has established

requirements and tolerances for the marking of preciousmetal. Anyone who manufactures, sells or appraises jewelleryshould be familiar with the Act. In Canada, anything inprecious metal that bears a quality mark (“18K” for example)must also, by law, bear a trademark.As the percentage of gold decreases, you would expect

the price should decrease. On average it will, but if youprice 24-karat gold and compare it to alloy, the alloy willbe more costly, for there are costs to producing alloys thatare not incorporated into 24-karat gold: labour costs,markups and other factors that are specific to karat goldalloy jewellery.

A simple 18K (“750”, or 75 percent) gold chainwill have a higher wholesale price than theretail on a 24-karat chain. Beyond bullion goldjewellery, when gold content decreases parallelprice decreases, but there are other factors toconsider. Is there custom design or hand labourinvolved in the item, for example?A very fine quality, custom-made 18K gold

chain may retail for more than $300 per gram,but wouldn’t usually be sold on the basis of aper-gram price. We would appraise it based ona calculation of design, materials, labour andother factors to arrive at a price.It is inappropriate to value gold solely on the

basis of the gold content and to simply drop iton a scale to work out a price.Sometimes, however, we might work out the

value of an item based on gold content, labourand weight, and still get it totally wrong. Anexample of the need to keep up with prices is a

Welsh-made wedding ring that we examined recently. Theinside of the ring was stamped “Aur Cymru”, with an imageof the three feathers of the Prince of Wales. This Welshring was a wedding band in 18K yellow gold, and weighed15 grams. The ring was sold for $6,000. There is not areasoned way for us to calculate the value of this ring, butit was made from Welsh gold, and we priced it based onprices from the retailers who sell such items in Wales. Allwedding rings worn by the British Royal Family are madefrom Welsh gold, so the price reflects the price charged forWelsh gold only. If only Canadian gold could be sold forsuch a premium!It can take hundreds of hours to produce some gold

jewellery. At wholesale, this can add up to tens ofthousands of dollars in labour for major handmade items.However, if this same type of item is sold at liquidationlevel, the labour and design elements are usually loweredto zero (for break-up).Gold coins and nuggets are generally valued on the basis

of gold bullion value alone with very little extra forhandling. There are few exceptions to this general rule.An appraisal should reflect the price being paid for an

item. Appraisers must update gold pricing and exchangerates on a daily basis. They must remain aware of differentmarkets for gold based on the many variables in market,karat of gold, geography, design and labour.Every item of gold jewellery is really an individual’s

treasure. In order to handle it fairly and correctly asappraisers, we must remain aware of the massive numberof variables that can influence the price of jewels ofthis metal that has such a “standardized” price aroundthe world. [CJ]

It is inappropriate tovalue gold solely on the

basis of the gold contentand to simply drop it on

a scale to work outa price.”

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“

040/042_CJ AprMay 08 Facevalue:Layout 1 4/29/08 5:16 PM Page 42

DO YOU SELL CANADIAN DIAMONDS?Retailer? Manufacturer? Wholesaler/distributor? … Selling Canadian diamonds?

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As a Code Signatory you tell the world that the Canadian diamonds you sell have behind them a credible independent system of authentication througha verifiable audit trail that can track the Canadian diamond you sell back to the Canadian mine from which it came.

As a Code Signatory, we will publicize broadly to both the jewellery industry and consumers that you are a member and that the Canadian diamondsyou sell can be authenticated. The CDCC website is among the top selections when a consumer does a search for Canadian diamonds.

Join other industry members who are enjoying the benefits of being part of a group of Canadian diamond stakeholders committed to ensuringauthenticity in Canadian diamond claims.

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A s gold prices soar to new highs, some jewellerybuyers are holding on to their money or spendingit on other materials. But when daily news reports

trumpet the unprecedented market value of the belovedmetal, its appeal only rises among those able to revel inconspicuous consumption.Searching for “conspicuous,” one need look no further

than “Desperate Housewives” star and red-carpet darlingEva Longoria, who was seen wearing a solid gold dress(albeit a very short one) at New York’s Mercedes BenzFashion Week. As for “consumption,” popular Manhattancomfort-food eatery Serendipity 3 made Guinness WorldRecords when it created its $1,000 sundae made withcaviar, Armagnac and edible gold leaf. Last November, therestaurant took the next step and launched a $25,000dessert that contains 28 cocoas infused with flakes of 23-carat gold. Although it has yet to receive an order for thefive-figure treat, the restaurant confirms that customers

request the less costly confection “every few months.”And the same consumers are still spending top dollar on

gold jewellery, says Duvall O’Steen of theWorld Gold Council.“It’s not only in jewellery; it’s also in handbags, shoes andfabrics,” she says. “On Fifth Avenue, Louis Vuitton has bigchunky gold bracelets in the window. Your Blackberry can begold; so can the earphones for your iPod. There are gold-platedcameras and cellphones. It’s also in beverages; there are vodkas,champagnes and wines that have real gold flakes in them.”

PRICE WARS“I don’t think the jewellery industry should be afraid of ahigh gold price,” says Steve Parker, president of theCourtney Gold Company Ltd. in Vancouver. “In the ’80swhen gold was at its height, business was fantastic; peoplewere excited about owning gold, and it rubbed off on thejewellery industry. Are you more excited about gold whenit’s falling in price or when it’s rising?”

With gold approaching $1,000 an ounce, the lower-end marketmay slow, but opportunities abound at the luxury level.BY SARAH B. HOOD

TheGoldDoubleStandard

Previous page: Goldenstyle at Nicole Romano’sNew York Fashion Weekshow. This page: Cuff andearrings by Vendorafa.Photos courtesy ofthe World Gold Council.

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And risingthey certainly are. WhenCanadian Jeweller’s gold issuewent to press last year, priceshad already spurted up over $700US before dropping back into the high $600s. As 2008opened, the London Gold Fixing showed the price ataround the long-held record high of $850US, but byFebruary it was hovering in the range of $900 to $925US.With the continued unpredictability of the U.S. dollar, noone has yet begun to forecast any significant lowering ofthe gold price.Canadian retailers, their customers and their suppliers

have been slightly shielded from the rise in gold prices bythe current high value of the Canadian dollar. However,importers and manufacturers report that retailers arebeing cautious with regard to their inventory, holdingsmall stocks in anticipation of a future drop in prices.“Definitely the price has affected our sales negatively,”

says Ted Argyris, vice-president of Arig’or Inc. inMontreal, which imports gold jewellery from Italy. “Thestrong Canadian dollar has helped, but of course it has notcompensated for the drastic increase in price. The price ofgold has tripled in three years; the Canadian dollar hasgone up by maybe 50 percent.”Mel Hedges is a wholesaler and the Canadian

representative for Australia’s Bee Jewellery; he also carries

findings and supplies for the repair industry. “Even inthat area I’m finding that people, if they need onesetting, they’ll order one setting, whereas in thepast they’d order half a dozen at least,” he says.And in retail, “They want just to replace whatthey’ve sold.”The pinch has been especially felt by those

whose customers normally include tourists fromthe U.S. and elsewhere. “Our sales have dropped bigtime,” says John Akcan, president of Solid GoldJewellery in Toronto, whose business includeshandling souvenir items like maple-leaf pins.“I would say it has dropped down 40 to 50percent,” he says.As the WGC’s February press release puts it,

“It would appear that an ‘affordability’ mark hasbeen reached in certain lower-value segments of

the market.” The WGC document Gold Demand Trends(Full year and Q4 2007) points out that price volatilityputs more of a damper on the market than priceincreases. In fact, “a steady and gradual rise in price isno deterrent to jewellery demand since it enhances theinvestment element of purchase.” Furthermore, “not all

of the ‘missed’ buying during periods of price volatility islost, as some returns when prices are more stable.”While the mid- to low-priced end of the industry is

slow, Parker says, “I would encourage retailers to re-pricetheir gold inventory for the current price of gold. It’s not amatter of greed; it’s a matter of making a wise decision. Ithink we’ll see $1,500 gold before we see $500 gold again,”he adds.

BY DESIGNMeanwhile, with the high gold price and the weakAmerican dollar, designers have started to modify theirwork to make the most of every gram. “We were at theVicenzaOro show in Italy, and we noticed that they weremaking a lot of pieces a lot lighter,” says Karolin Tecimer,who handles sales for Tecimer Jeweller in Toronto.“I think the price of gold is influencing the design quite

a bit,” concurs Parker. “But I’m not seeing smaller pieces atall; I’m seeing a renewal of electroformed designs, whichenable the piece to be hollow and very light, and moreopen designs...circles, loops, big open links.”“When you have a higher price of gold, you have to try

to cut down in other areas,” says O’Steen. Certain classicswill always be popular, but these days, a classic piece musthave a twist. “We the consumer are more inclined to buysomething that has a classic look to it. I don’t mean retro,but something I can wear 25 years from now and it’s not

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One: Floral necklace by Graziella.Two: Gold suite by DML. Photoscourtesy of the World Gold Council.

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going to go out of fashion.” An interesting textureis one way to add interest, she says. “It’s a way to takea classic piece like a cuff and give it an updatedlook.”

“More and more, we’re seeing society beinginfluenced by fashion—anything they see inthe Oscars or the Grammies,” says Tecimer.“So anyone that pays a lot of money inadvertising, I think they’re greatly helped by that.We are seeing a big trend in circles, big chunkybracelets, long chains, some with texture. Over Christmaswe sold a lot of big, wide bracelets, with the cost for aretailer anywhere from $1,500 to $3,000, so $3,000 to$5,000 retail.”

Montreal’s Ex Aurum manufactures, retails andwholesales mid- to higher-end gold, white gold andplatinum. “Heavy gold jewellery is slowing down becauseof the price of gold; that typical Italian jewellery is on adecline because it’s just metal, and that’s the big partof the price,” says Ex Aurum owner, jeweller and designerGino Priolo. “But if you’re manufacturing hereand you’re doing nice work, I think you’ll continue todo okay.”

“People want to be bold,” says Tecimer. “They want tofeel that they’re wearing a unique piece. The clients arestill spending the money, but they’re more demanding. Ifind that if I have a piece that wasn’t finished nicely orwasn’t a nice style, I couldn’t even give it away below cost.If it’s a nice style, price doesn’t seem to be an issue becauseit’s a luxury item. They’re not buying it hoping to melt itdown and resell it; they’re buying it to enjoy it.”

NICHE MARKETSApart from updated classics, several other niches bearwatching. For instance, bridal traditions have beenchanging over the past decade, and may be opening upnew possibilities. “What’s interesting to me is how womenare wearing more than one outfit,” says O’Steen. “I thinkthe opportunity for the jewellery industry is that it’s notjust the bridal band. You’re wearing something traditionalwith the wedding gown, but in your reception wear youcan really be more fashion-forward, so there’s anopportunity to sell more than one suite of jewellery if thejeweller is savvy enough to ask, ‘What are you wearing foryour reception?’”

Another niche that seems to be developing is rose gold.“I don’t know if this is emerging or just a passing thing,”says O’Steen. “Rose gold looks really great with white andyellow; it’s an interesting thing to keep an eye on.”

“Italy is showing a lot of pink gold as of last year,” says

Argyris. “There’s been a large increase inthe production of pink gold, and notonly pink gold but pink with white. It’snot a huge mover yet in Canada, but itmay be increasing.”

There’s also a fashion trend for what O’Steen calls“meaningful things,” like hearts, crosses and natureinspirations. “[Designer] Robert Lee Morris talks about‘wearing your talismans’; he talks about the spiritualcomfort that comes from that,” she says. “Things that arevery meaningful and iconic allow you to wear yoursymbols, your self-expression.” She cites the popularangels and zodiac symbols from Temple St. Clair and thegold “Love Letters” by Mauri Pioppo, as well as “jewellerythat gives back,” such as pieces tied in with health orenvironmental causes. “That’s just another way of addingvalue,” says O’Steen. “So there’s a couple of different waysto look at it.”

So if the products are exciting enough, at the higher endof the market, gold jewellery is still desired at any price.“Gold becomes more aspirational when it’s moreexpensive, and gold is very much part of the fashion worldright now,” O’Steen points out.

“It’s a very interesting time, because there’s a lot ofinterest in gold right now.” [CJ]

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CLASSICAL CREATIONS“When prices rise, consumers flock to the classics,” says O’Steen, explainingthat timeless pieces are considered a more sensible investment. New takeson gold classics took centre stage at Vicenza: link chains in fashion-forward shapes, textured cuff bracelets and iconic pieceslike hearts, crosses or flowers. These are classics, taken to thenext level!

World Gold Council expert Duvall O’Steen takes a look atheavy-hitting gold trends from VicenzaOro.

BY KATHRYN HUDSON

With the price of gold being as high as it is today, it’s important for retailers to make the right investment when it comes to gold purchasing.Here are the top gold trends of 2008:

INSPIRED DESIGNThe higher price of gold is inspiring creativity among designers as alternative materials likeceramic, wood and resin become more popular. These fashionable additions lighten the

gram weight of the gold while contributing to fun and funky designs.

WorthItsWeight

TECHNICOLOR DREAMSColour and texture were also major players

at Vicenza. New technologies help cre-ate different finishes that make foradded visual interest, as well as innova-tive colours of gold. Colour alsoshowed up in the form of ceramic andenamel mixed with gold in fun newways, as well as modern takes on tri-colour pieces—infinitely wearable with

today’s feminine fashions.

One: Necklace byCarniani. Two: Link chainby Aretina Arte. Three:Bracelet by Dall’Avo.Four: Pendant by GiordanaCastellan. Five: Charms andbracelet by Maria De Toni.All photos courtesy of TheWorld Gold Council.

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TRIBAL RITESEthnic and tribal-inspired influences were also prominent in gold jewellery at

the show. Coloured enamel designs help evoke ever-popular animalprints and safari looks. “These should fit perfectly with the khakineutrals and animal prints in spring fashions,” says O’Steen.

GIVE ME MOREAdded value is also a key trend as designers attempt

to entice consumers by offering add-on pieces. Apendant, for example, can be worn in multiple

ways when resin or mother-of-pearlaccessories are included. “It feels likegetting five or six pieces of jewellery in onepurchase,” says O’Steen. Now that’s offeringmore bang for the proverbial buck! [CJ]

When it comes to gold styles, many designers look no further thanItaly’s stylish shores. Taking note of the burgeoning Mediterraneantrends will put Canadian retailers a step ahead of the game.

SWEET CHOCOLATEMultiple strands of chocolate-coloured pearls blend with whitepearls and yellow gold to create unique chokers, bundled braceletsand earrings that were hot enough to warm the winter weather.

REGAL STYLEEnhancing a hairstyle with a shimmering gold hairband or demuretiara is increasingly envogue. Simple gold ribbons or satin-finished and

crystal embellished pieces were also embraced by Italian designers.

WHITEWASHPale agates set off long shapely gold necklaces, while white coralon rings and earrings took on playful shapes like flowers,butterflies or stars.

CAMEO APPEARANCEClassic pieces are regaining ground, albeit with a modern twist.Cameos are now cropping up with timeless silhouettes engraved onbackgrounds of black onyx, green and black agate rather than onthe classic seashell. [CJ]

LOVEATFIRST SIGHTVicenza’s First show, a new division dedicated to fresh styles, alsopresented some of the most desirable trends for Italian gold jewellery.

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Trends to watch for:classic design, open-work,texture, mixed materials

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Each year, several hundred thousand students across Canada graduate from highschool or a post-secondary program. This annual celebration presents a primeopportunity for Canadian jewellery retailers, who can market their stock products as

graduation gifts.“I think people are looking for something that will last a long time, a keepsake,” says

Swarovski corporate communications manager Florence Tang, adding that jewellery is a greatway for students to mark their special day.Statistics Canada reports that over 400,000 students celebrate some form of graduation

annually. In spite of this incentive, some Canadian retailers fail to capitalize on this verysaleable occasion.This lack of enthusiasm is puzzling to Wes Dickinson of Cadman Manufacturing, which

makes graduation rings and sells them directly to retailers. “There is no real reason why aretailer should not want to promote graduation gifts,” says Dickinson. As Dickinson sees it,selling graduation rings and other keepsakes draws in young consumers—which can go a longway in helping retailers establish new clientele.It is a sentiment that is echoed by Mike Guinan-Browne, president of Falcon Inc., an

importer and distributor of jewellery in Canada. “If a young person can relate to the store,then they are going to go back in the future,” he says. “Retailers should be trying to appeal toa young demographic by offering products that that demographic is going to like—instead

Targeting recent gradswill give your sales topmarks.

BY VAKIS BOUTSALIS

theClassHeadof

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Previous page: SwarovskiMirage headphones.One: Pearls by Rambaud.Two: Swarovski Lock OutUSB key.

of trying to sell to the same old customers day after day afterday.” Tang agrees, saying, “Our customer has actuallybecome younger, which appeals to the jewellery side of ourbusiness. We certainly would want to tap into [thegraduation gift] market.”

Graduation is the perfect opportunity to begin makinginroads with a younger demographic. “It is big business,”he says.

Sometimes, a lower price point can be key to drawing incustomers. Simply put, retailers who do not offer affordablepieces chance losing out on the graduation crowd. “Ahundred to $200, maybe $300—that is where people aregoing to be looking to spend money on a present,” saysGuinan-Browne.

What can retailers offer, beyond the traditional graduationring? Michael daCosta, designer and owner of Fortunes FineJewellers in Toronto, suggests choosing gifts that embody thenotion of coming of age. “Cufflinks are a good idea for a boy,”he says. “It’s a classic gift…When you put them on, you know

it’s for something special in your life.” For girls, daCostarecommends a good string of pearls. “Then we can dress it upor down with add-ons—something like a pendant.”

Some young customers may be looking towards the future,though, rather than traditional pieces. Swarovski and Philipshave tapped into a relatively newmarket with the introductionof Active Crystals, crystal-adorned headphones and USBmemory sticks, targeting consumers looking for fun andfunctional jewellery to incorporate into their lifestyle. “Theresponse has been phenomenal,” says Tang. And the timing isright for companies to capitalize on graduation season, sheexplains. Plans to build on the strong response are underway,with four new designs ready to launch this month.

Whatever you suggest as a coming-of-age gift, it isimportant to take advantage of the opportunitiespresented by a graduating class.

“Retailers are always saying they want to growtheir customer base,” says Guinan-Browne.“Graduation is the perfect opportunity.” [CJ]

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From independent artisans to staff designers for major companies, Canada’s jewelleryschools are turning out a wide range of graduates. For a savvy retailer, it’s well worththe effort to browse through the spring explosion of student exhibitions, and cherry-

pick through the works of some home-grown talent before they become well known.

NORTHERN CANADAYou might think it’s difficult to keep tabs on students who attend Iqaluit’s Nunavut ArcticCollege, but the college makes it easy by moving its annual graduation showcase tolocations from Vancouver’s Spirit Wrestler Gallery to Fredericton’s Bejewel. This year’sedition takes place over the summer at Iqaluit’s Nunatta Sunakkutaangit Museum, but“We’re looking at a venue in Switzerland next year,” says senior instructor AdrienneStanton. “There’s a lot of interest in the Arctic, and that’s only increasing withenvironmental concern.”

BrightIdeasThe jewellery designers of tomorrowshow off their innovative concepts atstudent exhibitions across Canada.BY SARAH B. HOOD

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The collegewas also repre-sented at Toronto’s2008 One of a Kind Show this March,which for the second year showcased workby students from craft schools acrossCanada. Also taking part: Toronto’s OntarioCollege of Arts and Design and George BrownCollege; Barrie’s Georgian College; Kootenay Schoolof the Arts in Nelson, B.C.; Haliburton School of theArts; and Quebec City’s École de joaillerie de Québec.“They had a great response,” says Georgian College co-

ordinator Greg Merrall, who attended both years. He addsthat people in the industry often forget just how smallcollege budgets can be. “It’s our largest capital outlay ofthe year to put this together, but we couldn’t do this if thebooth wasn’t generously donated to us.”

WESTERN CANADAUnfortunately, Vancouver’s One of a Kind does not yetinclude craft schools. However, Nelson’s Kootenay Schoolof the Arts holds a year-end sale on campus in early Aprilalong with a spring graduate exhibit. This year, it runsApril 26 to June 22 at Touchstones Gallery in Nelson.Calgary’s Alberta College of Art and Design holds twoannual events: Metalmorphosis and The Gem Event. Thisspring, Metalmorphosis includes a display of student workat the college. On the other hand, The Gem Event is aunique competition and party. Students produce originalwork on a specified theme, and the top three submissionsmay choose $100, $200 or $300 worth of gems from thecollege’s $200,000 collection. (Donations to the gemstonecollection are welcomed; charitable receipts are provided.)Competition entries “could be a performance or video, butmore often than not it’s jewellery,” says Sarabeth Carnat,head of jewellery and metals. “We have felt for some yearsthat it’s the best work the students do.”

ONTARIOIn Toronto, OCAD’s annual Graduate Exhibition in Mayattracts some 20,000 visitors. Medals are awarded in each

arts discipline; last year’s winner in the Material Arts andDesign area was jeweller Margaret Lim, who won for artpieces that combined metalwork and photography. GeorgeBrown College also presents an annual Jewellery Artsgraduate exhibition and sale; this year’s edition, titled“Rouge”, runs April 10 to May 4 at Bounty, the craft shopat Harbourfront Centre, with a free reception and awardsceremony on April 17. Students also participate in thejuried Zilberschmuck. “We had award winners last year,”says co-ordinator Martha Glenny. Fleming College’s

Haliburton School of the Arts holds student shows inApril and December, with jewellery students

profiled in the spring edition. Barrie’sGeorgian College also hosts an Aprilevent; this year’s graduate show opens oncampus on April 25 and runs for abouttwo weeks.

QUEBECÉcole de joaillerie de Montréal has an annual show

in the school’s own galleries for part-time students atthe end of April, as well as a show in June for the full-timers. The autumn exhibit of graduates’ work is held in aprestigious off-campus location; this year’s venue had notyet been chosen at time of writing. The École de joailleriede Québec in Quebec City also goes off-campus for itsgraduate show, held in late May or early June. This year, itgoes to Quebec’s brand-new Maison de la Musique.

EAST COASTNew Brunswick College of Craft & Design normally holdsits student exhibition at Old Government House, thehome of Lt.-Gov. Herménégilde Chiasson. “It has twogalleries, and every year [Lt.-Gov. Chiasson] gives us anamazing opening,” says Brigitte Clavette, studio head ofJewellery/Metal Arts. This year’s free public reception isMay 21 and the show runs for about a month. Studentsalso participate in the Atlantic Trade Show (ATS) inHalifax on the first weekend in February. “Our school getsa booth where the third-years get feedback from thewholesale purchasers,” says Clavette. “We’ll be doing afourth-year program that’s more entrepreneurial; theyactually get taken back to the ACT show under a boothcalled Chrysalis.” Nova Scotia College of Art & DesignUniversity (NASCAD) in Halifax attends ATS and hosts astudent Christmas show and sale, usually in November.This year, Seeds Gallery is hosting a show and sale of workby NASCAD students, alumni and staff. There will also bean April exhibit of senior student work at a local gallery.To find out more about these events (or others not listed

here), check the website of your local craft school; it’s aneasy way to get a taste of tomorrow today. [CJ]

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ALBERTA COLLEGE OF ART AND DESIGN:1407-14th Ave NW, Calgary, AB T2N 4R3. T: (403) 284-7600,F: (403) 289-6682. W: www.acad.ca. Programs: BFA, Majorin Jewellery & Metals (four years).Contact: Sarabeth Carnat,head, Jewellery & Metals, T: (403) 338-5537.

AURORA COLLEGE, YELLOWKNIFE CAMPUS:Bag 9700, 5004, 54th St, Yellowknife, NT X1A 2R3. T: (867)920-3030, (866) 291-4866. W: www.auroracollege.nt.ca.Program: Diamond Cutting & Polishing (22 weeks).Contact:Mike Botha, senior instructor, T: (867) 873-7585,(866) 266-4966.

CANADIAN GEMMOLOGICAL ASSOCIATION:1767 Avenue Rd, Toronto, ON, M5M 3Y8. T: (416) 785-0962, (877) 244-3090, F: (416) 785-9043. W: www.canadiangemmological.com. Programs: Diploma inGemmology (four months full-time, two years part-time)plus advanced courses, general interest courses.

CANADIAN INSTITUTE OF GEMMOLOGY-PACIFIC SCHOOL OF JEWELLERY ARTS:Box 57010, Vancouver, BC V5K 5G6. T: (604) 530-8569. W:www.cigem.ca. Programs: Accredited Gemmologist (CIG)Diploma (one- or two-year programs), Diamond Expert(CIG) certificate, Fine Jewellery Expert (CIG). Contact: J.Wolf Kuehn, director of education, T: (604) 530-8569, E:[email protected].

ÉCOLE DE JOAILLERIE DE MONTRÉAL:416 de Maisonneuve BlvdW, 9th fl, Montreal, QC H3A 1L2.T: (514) 281-9922, (877) 281-9922, F: (514) 281-9933. W:www.ecoledejoaillerie.com. Programs: Diplome des ÉtudesCollégiales/DEC (three years, offered through CÉGEP deVieux-Montréal), Introductory Jewellery Techniques (420hours: 7 levels of 60 hours each), plus advanced courses,general interest courses. Contact: Carole Plante, director, T:(514) 281-9922 ext.202, E: [email protected].

ÉCOLE DE JOAILLERIE DE QUÉBEC:299 3rd Ave, Ste 304, Quebec, QC G1L 2V7. T: (418)648-8003, (877) 648-8003, F: (418) 648-6235. W: www.ecoledejoaillerie.ca. Programs: Techniques de Métiers

d’art-joaillerie DEC (Jewellery techniques diploma, threeyears), Le perfectionnement des artisans (professionaldevelopment, fall or spring sessions), Cours d’initiation à lajoaillerie (general interest, 6-15 hours). Contact: MichelineBoucher, director, T: (418) 648-8003, E: [email protected].

FLEMING COLLEGE’S HALIBURTONSCHOOL OF THE ARTS:Box 839, 297 College Dr, Haliburton, ON K0M 1S0.T: (705) 457-1680, (866) 353-6464. W: www.haliburton-schoolofthearts.ca. Program: Jewellery Essentials (14 weeksintensive) and some one-week summer program courses.Contact: Susan Little, co-ordinator, T: (705) 457-1680 ext.6721.

GEORGE BROWN COLLEGE-JEWELLERY ARTS & GEMMOLOGY:PO Box 1015, Station B, Toronto, ON M5T 2T9. T: (416)415-2000, (800) 265-2002. W: www.georgebrown.ca.Programs: Gemmology (one year), Jewellery Arts (threeyears), Jewellery Essentials (one-year), Jewellery Methods(two years).Contact:Martha Glenny, co-ordinator, T: (416)415-5000 ext.6105, E: [email protected].

GEORGIAN COLLEGE-SCHOOLOF DESIGN & VISUAL ARTS:One Georgian Dr, Barrie, ON L4M 3X9. T: (705) 728-1968,F: (705) 722-1531. E: www.jewelleryschool.ca. Programs:Jewellery & Metals (two-year diploma), Goldsmithing &Silversmithing (one-year postgraduate). Contact: GregMerrall, co-ordinator, T: (705) 728-1968 ext.1287.

KOOTENAY SCHOOL OFTHE ARTS AT SELKIRK COLLEGE:606 Victoria St, Nelson, BC V1L 4K9. T: (250) 352-2821,(877) 552-2821, F: (250) 352-1625. W: www.selkirk.ca/ksa.Programs: Jewellery & Small Object Design (two-yeardiploma), Metal (one-year certificate). Contact: LauraWhite, chair, T: (250) 352-2821, E: [email protected].

NEW BRUNSWICK COLLEGE OFCRAFT & DESIGN:457 Queen St, Box 6000, Fredericton, NB E3B 5H1. T: (506)

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CANADIAN JEWELLERY EDUCATIONPROGRAMS

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453-2305, F: (506) 457-7352. W: www.nbccd.ca. Programs:Diploma in Fine Craft, specialty in Jewellery/Metal Arts(two years, taken after a one-year general program).Contact:Michael Maynard, principal, T: (506) 453-2305, E:[email protected].

NOVA SCOTIA COLLEGE OF ART & DESIGNUNIVERSITY-CRAFT DIVISION:5163 Duke St, Halifax, NS B3J 3J6. T: (902) 444-9600, F:(902) 425-2420.W: www.nscad.ns.ca. Programs: BFA, Majorin Jewellery Design & Metalsmithing (four years). Contact:Heather Harris, academic secretary, T: (902) 494-8154, E:[email protected].

NUNAVUT ARCTIC COLLEGE:PO Box 600, Iqaluit, NU X0A 0H0. T: (867) 979-7267, F:(867) 857-8619. W: www.nac.nu.ca. Programs: Jewellery &Metalwork (two years). Contact: Adrienne Stanton, seniorinstructor, T: (867) 979-7267, E: [email protected].

ONTARIO COLLEGE OF ART & DESIGN-MATERIAL ART & DESIGN:100 McCaul St, Toronto, ON, M5T 1W1. T: (416) 977-6000,F: (416) 977-6006. W: www.ocad.ca. Program: BDes, Majorin Jewellery/Metalsmithing (four years). Contact: KenVickerson, acting chair, Material Arts and Design, T: (416)977-6000 ext.258, E: [email protected].

VANCOUVER COMMUNITY COLLEGE:250W Pender St, Vancouver, BC V6B 1S9. T: (604) 443-8300,F: (604) 443-8588. W: www.vcc.ca. Programs: Jewellery Artand Design (two years), Canadian Gemmological AssociationDiploma (two years, part-time), Gemmology CertificationProgram (two years, part-time), Graduate Sales AssociateCertification from the Jewellers Education Foundation ofthe American Gem Society (12 hours), Jewellery electives.Contact: Donna Hawrelko, program coordinator, T: (604)443-8670.

Do you have an educational facility for jewellery in Canadathat’s not listed here? Send an email to [email protected] forinclusion in our annual guide.

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EXCELLENCE iN

1. DIAMONDS & COLOURED DIAMONDSAny piece of jewellery that puts diamonds or coloured diamonds in the spotlight.Each design must have a minimum diamond content of 1 carat.

2. CANADIAN DIAMONDSEntries must feature Canadian diamonds and be accompanied by certificationattesting to each diamond’s Canadian origin. Smaller accent stones need not beCanadian.

3. PEARLSThe central design element in these entries must be natural pearls. Othergemstones and diamonds can be used as accent stones.

4. PLATINUMThe overall metal content of these designs must be a minimum of 75 percentplatinum, but any combination of gemstones and gold may be used.

5. COLOURED GEMSTONESThese entries, which must feature coloured gemstones as the central designelement, will be judged on creativity.

design2008 Categories

Winners of the 2007 Excellence in Design Awards,Ring by Andrew Costen, Costen Catbalue Goldsmithsand Design. Earrings by Julie Buchareff, JJ Buckar.Ring by Alfredo Alvarez, Aurum Design. Pendant byVarouj Tabakian, Jewellery by Varouj. Ring by MichaelDaCosta, Fortune Fine Jewellers. All photos by Ron Katz.


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DESIGNER’S NAME

COMPANY OR STUDENT AFFILIATION

ADDRESS CITY

PROVINCE POSTAL CODE

PHONE FAX

EMAIL ADDRESS

CATEGORY

TYPE OF JEWELLERY VALUE OF DESIGN (SPECIFY RETAIL OR MATERIALS)

Describe the piece, including metal used and karat value, gemstone types, weights, cuts and colour. (Complex designs should be accompaniedby technical details.)

ENCLOSED IS: MY FINISHED PIECE(S) OF JEWELLERY.AN ENTRY FEE OF $25 (CHEQUE CAN BE MADE PAYABLE TO STYLE COMMUNICATIONS INC.)

I understand the entry rules and regulations and I abide by those terms.

SIGNATURE

SEND ENTRY FORM TO: Excellence in Design, Rive Gauche Media, 60 Bloor Street West - 1106, Toronto, ON M4W 3B8.

ENTRY FORM

RULES, REGULATIONS AND INFORMATION• Jewellery must have been designed and made in

Canada.

• Jewellery must incorporate precious metals and must

adhere to the criteria set out in each category.

• All gemstones must be natural. Synthetics are

not permitted. Students may substitute CZ for

diamonds.

• One submission per designer, per category.

• Contestant assumes all liability for designs and

jewellery submitted. Although we will take reasonable

precautions while the jewellery is in our possession,

Canadian Jeweller cannot be responsible for

insuring the jewellery. We suggest you extend your

own policy to cover your piece or pieces for loss,

theft or damage for the duration of the competition.

• In each category, three finalists will be selected.

Judges will then choose an overall winner in

each category.

• To enter, submit finished jewellery, an entry form and

a $25 fee for each package.

• Entry deadline is June 29, 2008, 5 p.m.

• Finalists will be displayed and the winners

announced at JCK Toronto, August 10-12, 2008.

Non-winning entries will be returned the week of

August 20, 2008. Winning entries will be returned the

week of August 27, 2008.

• Entries will be returned by a courier at the expense of

the designer. To arrange for the return, please contact

Melissa Badr (416) 203-7900, ext. 0, during the week

of August 6, 2008, and no later than August 17, 2008.

• Winning entries and all information provided about

the entries may be used for promotional purposes.

Slides, renderings and other reproductions of the

designs, as well as press releases, will also be used

for this purpose.

Entries will be judged on the basis of originality, creativity,

beauty, wearability and quality of workmanship.

Consideration will also be given to marketability.

M A Y 2 0 0 8 CJ 57

056-057.CJ.May_ExEntryForm:Layout 1 5/1/08 9:32 AM Page 57

58 CJ M A Y 2 0 0 8

On a recent Sunday afternoon in Beijing, Chinesegold retail superstore Cai Bai was clogged withshoppers. In a scene that looked more like a sale

than a typical retail day, hundreds of shoppers not onlybrowsed but also purchased—in fact, they purchased alot. In the first 40 days of the year, the gold megastore soldover RMB1 billion ($139 million Cdn) of jewellery, whichis almost equivalent to half of last year’s sales—despitethe historic high price of gold. This interest in gold is notunique to this one shop, however. Last year, Chinaovertook the United States as the world’s second-largestgold market by volume, behind India.

These numbers might indicate an easy market forChinese gold retailers, but a closer look reveals some of

the same challenges Canadian jewellers face: gold may be losing its lustre for youngerconsumers. Two fashionably dressed sisters shopping at Cai Bai agreed that gold, especiallyyellow gold, was not particularly appealing to them or their friends (although the oldersister, who was in her mid-twenties, did pick out a gold bracelet for herself). In a nutshell,the girls brought to light what is tempting the young consumer away from gold:fashionable clothes, white-toned jewellery, designer handbags and MP3 players are thepreferred accoutrements of the youthful consumer.

The potential generational shift is worrying to those in the business of selling gold. MarkPool is marketing manager at AngloGold Ashanti, a South Africa-based gold mining

EasternPromisesIn China, a new, more youthfulcustomer is attracted to gold’s lustre.

BY NYKA ALEXANDER

058-059.CJ.May_Asia:Layout 1 5/1/08 10:02 AM Page 58

M A Y 2 0 0 8 CJ 59

Previous page: Cai Baijewellery store in Beijing.One and Two: Winningdesigns from the Chineseedition of the AuDITIONSgold design competitionheld last March in Beijing.Photos courtesy of theWorld Gold Council.

company that spends more than any other miner onmarketing gold directly to consumers. With about two-thirds of gold consumption going to jewellery, this enduser is vital to the industry. “We feel gold is losing touchwith discretionary spending,” says Pool. “Consumers wantto spend on iPods, diamonds, handbags, and exoticholidays…The East follows the fashion leaders from theWest. If we lose a generation or two of Western consumersfrom gold, it could be bad. It could be going that way,though we don’t know for sure.”

It seems ironic to be worrying about this younggeneration of consumers when the sales figures continueto grow year after year, but a key question is why theChinese consumer turns to gold. Traditionally in China,gold jewellery is bought as an investment. Stores sell whatconsumers want: 24K, 99 percent pure gold, which is soldby weight, with a small labour charge added.With marginsof only four or five percent, there is little incentive forretailers to spend much on design innovation; sales ofjade, diamonds or gold set with other stones are muchmore appealing. From their side, most customers are notlooking for design innovation either.

Mandy Zong, features editor at Harper’s Bazaar China, seesthe market divided into two types of customers. “One kindbuys gold because she thinks it has value that will notdepreciate over time.These are the ones who buy 24K goldpieces,” she says. In Zong’s opinion, this type of consumer isinterested in the perceived value of the gold itself rather thandesign. “Most of the jewellery looks horrible. You could reallyjust wear a gold brick on your neck.” The other type ofshopper, according to Zong, is the fashion forward consumerwho will choose gold jewellery for its value as an accessory.

Creating more demand for the latter is a priority forthose in the gold business. Among them is the World GoldCouncil, an international organization funded by majorgold companies from South Africa, the U.S., Canada,Australia and China. The Council is working on injectingdesign excitement into the China market in order to createa buzz around gold.

“We have helped local retailers to modernize theirdisplay management and to modernize their jewellerydesign,” says Roland Wang, who heads the Council forGreater China, which includes Hong Kong and Taiwan.“We did seminars, and introduced some modern designhouses to help them update their look. We did salestraining to help salespeople so they realize they are dealingwith a different kind of consumer. We helped themimprove from design to communication to promotion tosales—everything, essentially.”

Part of the process involved the introduction of 18-karatgold to the market, dubbed “K-gold.” At the time of thelaunch in 2003, 18-karat represented about five percent ofthe market.

“We thought that if we introduced 18-karat gold, wecould introduce some imported jewellery to give a freshimpression of what modern gold jewellery looks like,” saysWang. “We used Italian-made 18-karat gold as a trendsetterand asked local producers to follow it.”

Zong remembers the first time she saw K-gold. “It lookedquite fashionable, different from what I had seen before. It

was more suitable for young people, not heavy like the stuffthat is appealing to my mother or even my grandmother.”

The Council was also able to introduce fixed pricing,familiarizing the retailer and customer with the idea ofpaying a set price for the item that was not directly relatedto weight. The margins charged for K-gold are much moreattractive for the retailer, ranging from 40 to 50 percent.

The innovation worked, and now 18-karat goldrepresents 18 percent of the Chinese market, withouthaving cannibalized other gold sales. Essentially, the itemsappeal to a whole other customer, one who is looking togold as an accessory and not only as an investment.

This jumpstart is needed, according to Wang. “We arethe factory of the world on the production side,” he says.“But in terms of design, we have a long way to go. Not evenmentioning Italy, even just compared to South Korea,Japan, Hong Kong. We have a lot to learn.”

Looking ahead, analysts are cautiously optimistic thatthe gold market in China will continue to boom. Asinflation in the country inches towards double digits andthe price of gold continues to rise, the commodity willretain its appeal as an investment. But continuing toattract the young consumer will remain a challenge.

Zong, for example, reports that the trendiness of yellowgold is on the rise again, with many of her colleagues inthe fashion industry wearing gold-toned jewellery withwhite or coloured semi-precious stones.

There is a caveat, however, as many of them are wearinggold-coloured pieces rather than real gold. To them, saysZong, “the look is more important than the material.” [CJ]

1. 2.

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60 | CJ M A Y 2 0 0 8

In today’s lean times, those in the global diamond trade are focusingincreasingly on evolving to meet the challenges of the changing worldof rough supply.TheThird InternationalRoughDiamondConference,

which took place in TelAviv fromFebruary 11-12, 2008, brought togethermany of theworld’s diamond industry players to discuss those challenges.

The African diamond-producing countries, well represented bypoliticians, bureaucrats and businesses, all brought a common messageto the table: that beneficiation, or adding value to the rough diamondsbefore they are exported, is here to stay. While some could argue andquestion the economic viability and sustainability of some of theapproaches, few were able to disagree with the concept. An interestingaspect of the discussion is that the industry as a whole focused on theneed for the African beneficiation concept to be economically viable,without government subsidies to distort the openmarket. This consensuscame despite the fact that government support (i.e., subsidies) was, andcontinues to be, critical to the viability of the Israeli, Belgian and Indiandiamond sectors. The growing importance of the southern Africanproducing countries was apparent. It is only a matter of time before suchconferences are held in Botswana, Namibia or South Africa.

However, itwas apleasant surprise to see that in addition to the themeof beneficiation, a number of other themes appeared consistently invarious speeches and presentations. Several speakers raised the need formore generic advertising to grow the overall demand and price ofdiamond jewellery.While models and approaches varied, the centralconcept of the need for more advertising was consistently raised, andfocused on the need for rough producers (other than De Beers) andrough-producing countries todomore in this area.Oneoption is foroneof the existing global diamond or jewellery organizations to considerdeveloping an advertising and marketing role. In terms of Canadian

diamonds, it would be interesting to consider the development of astructure to provide generic advertising support for Canadiandiamonds, especially when it comes to exports.

Another recurring theme was the anticipated shortage of roughdiamonds, and the critical importance of an assured supply of roughdiamonds for the downstream industry.While numbers and projectionsvaried, the message was clear: in the next few years, the supply of roughdiamonds will be insufficient to meet the slowly-but-steadily growingdemand for diamond jewellery. Different strategies to address theconcerns were mentioned—the Canadian message, of course, was tofocus on exploration and production potential, and Canada’s place in thediamond industry as a significant producer of rough diamonds appearssolid and likely to grow in the future.

Some presenters argued that the existing overcapacity in manufac-turing (which will only increase as more factories in Southern Africaopen) needs to be resolved through corresponding factory closures. Areduction in the global manufacturing capacity would reduce thenumber of companies vying for rough supply, and the market would beable to absorb the substantial current polished inventory. Surprisingly,there was no real mention of synthetics, a hot-button topic recently.

There is no doubt that the manufacturing sector needs to evolve toaddress the changing world of rough supply and of diamond jewelleryretailing (especially on the Internet). Excess polished inventory, theshortage of rough, the overcapacity in manufacturing and the highbank debt all point towards a restructuring that will be painful forsome; and while not all will survive, it appears that the largemanufacturers and the niche manufacturers are most likely to do so.Canada’s niche diamond manufacturers should have a better than evenchance of weathering the coming storm. [CJ]

Supplyand

DemandCharting the courseof rough diamond supply atIsrael’s Rough Diamond Conference.

BY MARTIN IRVING

060.CJ.May_RoughDiamonds:Layout 1 5/1/08 11:30 AM Page 60

I N T R O D U C I N G

canadianjeweller.com

Read current and past issues online.Listen to articles and podcasts.

Find it on our 50,000 item Buyers’ Guide.Discuss & debate on our forums.

Source & Share in our retailer-only space.Get published.


62 CJ M A Y 2 0 0 8

Bespectacled and casually dressed, theDutch-born jewellery designer HansSmit doesn’t necessarily present the

expected image of an accomplishedbusinessman. Yet here on Antigua, the tinyisland where he makes his home, he hasbecome a legend, perhaps the leading figurein a place where the competition is fierceand jewellery stores abound.Smit studied at the Academy of Modern

Art in Holland, and began his career inSpain, where a hotel manager told himabout Antigua, an island he had neverheard of before. “I was young—I thought Ishould go and take a look. I did and neverleft,” he says. “It’s been 42 years since Icame here and it feels like the first day.”The Goldsmitty, Smit’s contemporary

shop tucked away in Redcliffe Quay in the

AnchorsAweighHow an Antigua jeweller got on boardwith the cruise line tourist market.

BY BARBARA KINGSTONE

062-063.CJ.May_Antiqua:Layout 1 5/1/08 11:24 AM Page 62

M A Y 2 0 0 8 CJ 63

centre of St. John’s, is reason enough to visit this lushCaribbean Island. With huge cruise ships docking almostconstantly, The Goldsmitty has become a touristdestination for unique designs, not least due to Smit’swell-placed ads aboard the liners. Although the rent in thisarea is exceptionally pricey, Smit feels it was the best move,since the shop is just a few minutes’ walk from the ship.Many of Smit’s most loyal clients also vacation at theisland’s high-end hotels every year, returning again andagain to purchase his newest creations.

A gilt spiral staircase leads from the shop floor up to hisstudio workshop, where two craftspeople execute Smit’sone-of-a-kind handmade designs. He works primarily in14-karat and 18-karat gold, and sees white gold as beingthe most popular. When asked about rose gold, he sayssimply, “We could make it, but the demand is not there.”

I spot a card describing something I’ve never heard ofbefore: Bread & Cheese Bush jewellery. These gold budlikenuggets are one of his recurring signatures, reappearing

throughout his collection. To create them, he starts bycollecting the flower buds of this local Antiguan bush,then in a process similar to the lost wax method, burns outthe organic material and replaces it with solid 14-karatgold. The nuggets are combined with gold and colouredstones in a wide variety of ways. “I like pieces to have anorganic look and have some texture,” he says.

But a quick glance into the showcases reveals thatcoloured stones are his métier. In fact, embarking on stone-buying trips is one of his favourite aspects of his work. “Ibuy at the source,” he says leading me to one of his vitrines.

Indeed, there aren’t many diamond pieces in hiscollection; his philosophy is that while he thinks diamondsare attractive, he much prefers the uniqueness of colouredstones. Smit proudly shows his cache, including blue-green tourmalines from Namibia, and Imperial topaz, aspecial stone he buys in Brazil. “There’s only one minenow that produces these precious topazes,” he says,pointing out the various finished rings, bracelets,pendants and earrings in the cases. One of his most prizedpieces is a spectacular, rare 42-carat topaz priced at$32,000. He is also a great admirer of aquamarine—infact, the only piece of jewellery he is wearing is a cabochonaquamarine set with his signature bubbled gold work—but his current stock is restricted to stones he purchased inNigeria, when they had the highest quality available.“Prices have escalated, especially for top-of-the-marketstones,” he says.

Smit also purchases loose rubies at the Tucson jewelleryfair, pointing to a neckpiece of ruby beads interspersedwith textured gold spacers retailing for over $7,000. Whenasked if he considers price to be a deterrent, he mentionsthat he received an order that very day for a similar rubypiece from a woman who had been by the store weeks ago.

Indeed, when comparing Antigua’s prices to other majorjewellery centres, Smit dissembles. “It really is difficult toknow, since mine are unique pieces,” he says. “But I’vebeen told by my clients if I were in New York, the priceswould be much higher.” [CJ]

With huge cruiseships docking

almost constantly,The Goldsmitty has

become a touristdestination for

unique designs”Previous page: Antigua’ssun-baked shores makethe small island aninternational touristdestination. One andTwo: Hans Smit favourscoloured stones forhis Caribbean-inspiredcreations.

1.

2.

“

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64 CJ M A Y 2 0 0 8

what’son

Every effort has been made to publish accurate information, but please contact show organizers to confirm.If you would like dates added, please contact [email protected].

APRIL | CANADATORONTO JEWELLERY

GEM&MINERAL SHOW

APRIL 25-27Oriole Community Centre

Phone: (514) 989-9800

Email: torontogemshow@

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Web: www.torontogemshow.com

APRIL | USGEM& LAPIDARY TRADE SHOW

APRIL 4-6Embassy Suites/Troy

Detroit, MI

Phone: (601) 879-8832

www.glwshows.com

SAVANNAH SPRING GEM,

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APRIL 4-6Savannah Convention Center

Savannah, GA

Email: [email protected]

Web: www.aksshow.com

AGS 2008 INTERNATIONAL

CONCLAVE

APRIL 9-12Sheraton Seattle Hotel

Seattle, WA

Phone: (702) 255-6500

Email: americangemsociety.com

JEWELERS INTERNATIONAL

SHOWCASE

APRIL 12-14Miami Beach Convention Center

Miami Beach, FL

Phone: (561) 998-0205


Web: www.jisshow.com

MJSA EXPO NEWYORK

APRIL 13-15Jacob Javits Convention Center

New York, NY

Phone: (401) 274-3840, ext. 3023

or (800) 444-6572

Web: www.mjsainc.com

GEM,MINERAL, JEWELRY &

BEAD SHOWS

APRIL 18-20National Guard Armory

Charlottesville, VA

Web: www.toteshows.com

INTERNATIONAL SOCIETY OF

APPRAISERS’ CONFERENCE

APRIL 25-28The Tremont Grand

Baltimore, MD

Phone: (443) 573-8444

APRIL | INTERNATIONALBASELWORLD – THEWATCH

AND JEWELLERY SHOW

APRIL 3-10Exhibition Center Basel

Basel, Switzerland

Phone: 41-58-206-2525


Web: www.baselworld.com

SALON INTERNATIONAL

DE LA HAUTE HORLOGERIE

(INVITATION ONLY)

APRIL 7-12Palexpo

Geneva, Switzerland

Web: www.hautehorlogerie.org

MIDEASTWATCH

& JEWELLERY SHOW

APRIL 15-19Expo Centre Sharjah

Sharjah, UAE


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CIBJO CONGRESS 2008

APRIL 21-23Dubai, UAE


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MAY 2-4The Empire Landmark

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Phone: (530) 265-2544


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ONTARIO

MAY 9-11The Holiday Inn on KingToronto, ONPhone: (530) 265-2544Email: [email protected]: www.wholebead.com

THEWHOLE BEAD

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MAY 16-18La Plaza - Holiday Inn

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TRADE SHOW

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Web: www.glwshows.com

MID-SOUTH JEWELRY &

ACCESSORIES FAIR

MAY 10-12Memphis-Cook Convention

Center

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INT’L JEWELRY FAIR

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MAY 17-20Ernest N. Morial Convention Center

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GEM,MINERAL, JEWELRY &

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MAY 23-25Salem Civic Center

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ANNUAL LASVEGAS GEM&

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MAY 26-29Grand Elegance Showroom &

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LUXURY BY JCK

MAY 27-29The Venetian Hotel Resort

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COUTURE

MAY 28-JUNE 2Wynn Las Vegas Resort

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Web: www.ja-newyork.com

LAS VEGAS ANTIQUE

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MAY 29-JUNE 1Rio All-Suite Hotel

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Venetian Hotel & Casino

064-065.CJ.May_Whats On:Layout 1 5/2/08 10:00 AM Page 64

what’son

M A Y 2 0 0 8 CJ 65

Las Vegas, NV


Web: www.agta.org

SWISSWATCH BY JCK

MAY 30-JUNE 3The Venetian Hotel Resort

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JCK LASVEGAS

MAY 30-JUNE 3Sands Expo & Convention Center

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PORTLAND GIFT &

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MAY 31-JUNE 3Oregon Convention Center

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MAY | INTERNATIONALINTERNATIONAL

JEWELLERY KOBE 2008

MAY 15-17Kobe International Exhibition Hall

Kobe, Japan



JEWELLERY EXPO UKRAINE

MAY 15-18Kyiv Expo Plaza

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MAY 17-21Vicenza, Italy


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GOSTINY DVOR

MAY 22-25Moscow, Russia

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JUNE | CANADASTORE - CANADA’S RETAIL

CONFERENCE

JUNE 2-3Toronto Congress Centre

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Web: www.retailcouncil.org

JUNE | INTERNATIONALCHINA INTERNATIONAL GOLD,

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JUNE 13-16Guangzhou Jinhan

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JMAMACAU 2008

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ASIA’S FASHION JEWELLERY &

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JUNE 19-22AsiaWorld-Expo

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HONG KONG

JEWELLERY &WATCH FAIR

JUNE 19-22Hong Kong Convention and

Exhibition Centre


Web: www.jewellerynetasia.com [CJ]

CANADIANSUMMER SHOWPREVIEWJCK TorontoAugust 10-12Metro Toronto Convention Centre, North BuildingContact: Reed Exhibitions Canada (Scott C. Temple)Reed Exhibitions Canada505 Consumers Road, Suite 901Toronto, Ontario, Canada M2J 4V8Phone: (416) 756-8250Email: [email protected]: www.jcktoronto.ca

CGTA Fall 2008 Gift ShowAugust 10-14Toronto International Centre, TorontoCongress CentreContact: Canadian Gift andTableware AssociationPhone: (800) 611-6100Web: www.cgta.org

Western CanadianJewellery ExpoAugust 15-17Mayfield Inn and Convention Center Edmonton, AlbertaContact: Russ WickstromPhone: (780) 458-6036Fax: (780) 458-7636Or Contact: Larry UlliacPhone: (780) 467-9549Fax: (780) 464-3349

Expo Prestige 2008August 24-26Place Forzani Laval, QuebecContact: Lise PetitpasQuebec Jewellers’ CorporationPhone: (514) 485-3333Fax: (450) 649-8984Email: [email protected]: www.cbq.qc.ca

064-065.CJ.May_Whats On:Layout 1 5/2/08 10:00 AM Page 65

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Shele LetwinPHONE 866.299.1702EMAIL [email protected] www.gemvision.com

Matrix Software classes available in Canada!

. 999PLATINUM CASTING GRAIN

IRIDIUM, RUTHENIUM

GOLD DEPOT

Call our Hotline for Prices - 416-366-GOLD (4653) Tel: 416-366-6031 and 416-366-8193 Fax: 416-366-3499

All Precious Metals Bought, Traded and Refined27 Queen St. East #901, Toronto ON

AVAILABLE FOR IMMEDIATE DELIVERY

H & W PERRIN Co. LtdCanada’s Leading Supplier of Watch & Clock Materials

PERRINS’ stocks a complete range of findings and settings for the jeweller and adeep stock of materials for the clock & watchmakers

We inventory a large selection of tools, equipment & supplies for all the trades.

A long standing tradition of service since 1929.If you aren’t doing business with us, you’re doing it the hard way!PHONE: (416) 422-4600 . . . . .Toll Free 1-800-387-5117FAX: (416) 422-0290 . . . . .Toll Free 1-800-741-6139

� [email protected]

www.gesswein.comemail: sales@gessweincanada

Your Total Source of Quality Tools & Equipment

317 Attwell Drive, Toronto, Ontario M9W 5C1

Telephone: 416-675-9171Toll Free : 800-263-6106 24 hr Fax : 888-269-0106

SHOP ON-LINE www.lacytools.caNeutec Laser Welders Canadian Dealer

Jewellers Tools Machines & Supplies

55 Queen Street, East Lower Lobby, Toronto, ON M5C 1R6 Toll-Free Canada 1-800-387-4466 • 416-365-1375 Fax: 416-365-9909

Lacy & Company Ltd.



M A Y 2 0 0 8 CJ 71


*CATALOGUE AVAILABLE*We are no longer just a casting house: we wil l take your order

from idea to finished product, inc luding diamonds and otherstones. (Cal l our tol l-free number or fax us for free estimates)

In stock settings and mounts.

SS, 10K, 14K,18K, 19K, 22K,Specializing inPLATINUM AND

19 K ULTRA WHITEGOLD CASTING

215 Victoria St., Suite B3Toronto, ON M5B 1T9Tel: (416) 366-4046Fax: (416) 366-5162

Toll Free: 1-877-365-5552Email: [email protected]

www.readymounts.com

LaLa Diamond Cutting & Repairs Inc.

• Cutters of Rough Diamonds• Old Mine Cuts and Repairs to All Shapes

• Buy Diamond Roughs and Broken Diamonds

21 Dundas Square, Suite 805Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7Tel/Fax: (416) 368-6883

MO I S S A N I T E C A N A DAR e f l e c t t h e b r i l l i a n c e o f y o u r l i f e

~With more brilliance and luster than any popular

gemstone including diamond, ruby, sapphire and emeraldno other gemstone or jewel compares to Moissanite.

~Tel: 416-366-7295 Fax: 416-366-3966

215 Victoria St, Suite 201 Toronto ON M5B 2T9

NorthamDiamond Inc.

A Cut Above the Rest“30 YEARS INTERNATIONAL EXPERIENCE”

YOUR #1 SOURCEOF SUPPLY

Importers & Wholesale suppliers specializing in Fine Make & Ideal Cuts. LoosePolished Diamonds in all shapes & sizes from .01CT to 5.00 CTS,

Fancy colours & Canadian DiamondsCanadamark – Brand: Arctic Fox Diamond27 Queen Street East, Suite 1004, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5C 2M6

Tel: (416) 861-1414 Fax: (416) 861-1581 • 1-800-941-GEMSemail: [email protected] www.northamdiamonds.com

• 400+ calibres of watch movements for Swiss &Japanese watches

• 1000+ of flat & domed crystals.• 100+ types of crowns from Japan, Switzerland & Far East.• 100+ types of tools for watchemakers & jewellers.• 100+ kinds of batteries.• HIGH QUALITY WATCH BANDS META/LEATHER/PVC

• JEWELLERY BOXES

Tel.: 1-888-somal 99Fax: 1-877-somal 77www.somalcanada.com

ORDER 2008COLOR CATLOGUE

1515 PORTAGE AVENUE, WINNIPEG, MANITOBA, CANADA R3G 0W7TTee ll:: ((220044)) 778899--99662200

EEmmaa ii ll :: sstteewwbbnnzz11@@mmttss..nneett

QUALITY service and attention to detail.• 6 Highly Qualified Technicians• Large Inventory of Parts and Access to all

the Major Supply HousesREPAIRS to fine Watches, Quartz andMechanical, Restoration of Pocket Watches.

STEWARTS HOROLOGY



72 CJ M A Y 2 0 0 8


classifiedA D V E R T I S I N G

Basal Diamonds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2Bergeron . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43Byrex Gems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20Diamonds Direct . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8, 21CGTA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27CMP Asia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29Gee ’N Gee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11Gem Sparkle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55GIA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13House of Jewellery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32HRA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6,7IIJS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23Importex . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41JCK Vegas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Jewelers Mutual Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9Jewels By Koby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26JVC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43MCD Pearls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41Meridian/Watier Findings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28Mirage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76Nova . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41Pandora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12Pierre Laurent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14Ready Mount . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30Regal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16, 17, 74, 75Rio Tinto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4, 5Rousseau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41Sanghavi Diamonds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15World Jewelry Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

INYOURNAME

DESIGNTO YOUROWNWISHESALLPRINTINGSTEPSINCLUDED

1 - 8 0 0 6 6 1 - 4 4 1 0s t u d i o - p u b l i c i t y . c o mF A X : 1 - 4 5 0 6 6 1 - 4 9 9 9

1NO

L O W E S T P R I C E S

J E W E L L E R Y R E P A I RE N V E L O P E

IN

INOURYYOUR

NAME

NGISEDRUYOOT

NWOSEHSIWLLA 1

SL

L

JE

166008

1ON

TSEWOL P

E W E L L E R Y RE N V E L

D

0144D A

0

SECIRP

R E P A I RO P E

NI

LLAGNITNIRPSPETSDEDULCNI

1sF

LGS

166008-cilbup-oidut66054-1:XA

0144-moc.yti

90994-16

Revolution.Introducing the new canadianjeweller.com

It’s all about you.

Read current and past issues online. Listen to articles and podcasts.Find it on our 50,000 item Buyers Guide. Discuss & debate on our Forums. Source & Share in our retailer-only space.

Get published.

ADINDEX

Major Canadian DiamondImporter/Jewellery manufacturerseeks sales representatives for

Western Canada.Reply to: fax: 416-368-8849Email: [email protected]

ENTS

/REP

SW

ANTE

D

Prestigious, well established Vancouverworkshop seeking fully qualified, full time,

goldsmith, preferably European trained. Mustbe proficient in hand-fabricating high end,custom jewellery from design, in gold andplatinum. Email or fax resume and photos

if possible. References essential.Email: [email protected]

Fax: 604-736-8820

HELP

WAN

TED

I am a goldsmith from Varese, northernItaly with over 30 years of experience,offering my services as a model maker.I can reproduce any type of jewellery,also miniatures and guarantee absolutereliability and professionality. Contact

Paolo Bettinelli [email protected]

SERV

ICES

EMPLOYMENT OFFERDIAMOND & COLORED STONESETTER MAISON DE PRESTIGE,1954 KAUFMANN DE SUISSE

If your setting work is exceptional and onpar with the finest in the industry, if youwish to join a growing and international

brand, then we might have a position for you.You take pride in your rigorous and exactworkmanship style, and are conscientious

of achieving perfection in your work.You are gifted at all setting types and want

to join a dedicated and talented teamwhere your efforts will be appropriatelyremunerated and your work appreciated.

Application can be sent to:KAUFMANN de SUISSE

2195 Crescent Street, MontrealQuebec, Canada H3G 2C1

[email protected]

We will be happy to facilitate yourVisa application with Canada Immigration.

HELP

WAN

TED

BUSINESSFOR SALE

The oldest jewellery manufacturing companyin Canada, established 1886 of lodge,corporate and school jewellery. Owneris retiring, call Mike at 905-522-4663

FOR

SALE

Experienced model-maker(17 yrs in Russia, Israel & Canada), extremely skilledin carving wax, diverse techniques in metal, anddesign/redesign, is interested in a full-time job in

Greater Toronto Area that requires accuracy and highquality of work performance.

Please e-mail: [email protected]

STORES WANTEDWe are looking to purchase non-malljewellery locations. Preference will begiven to high-visibility locations. We will

acquire your inventory, leaseholds and lease.We pay top dollar. Please contact in full

confidence, [email protected]

BUSI

NESS

OPPO

RTUN

ITIE

S

JEWELLERY STORE FOR SALEGreat location in Downtown Toronto

Almost 20 years in businesswith a loyal clientele

All chattels/fixtures includedPlease call 416-704-7480 or

e-mail [email protected] more information

FOR

SALE

FOR SALE,jewellery engraving business in Haliburton,

Ontario. Established family business since 1964.Second generation owned, comes equipped withfull engraving shop and jewellery and repairequipment. Reason for selling, health reasons.Please call 705-457-2911 or 877-567-3756,ask for Kim or Mike, serious inquiries only.

FOR

SALE


lastword

M A Y 2 0 0 8 CJ 73

It is thecurves in that

path to adventure thatmake the trip interesting

and worthwhile.– Lawrence Kutner

Pavé Cave ring fromGeorg Jensen.

RETURN ADDRESS: 60 BLOOR STREET WEST SUITE 1106 | TORONTO ONTARIO, M4W 3B8

073.CJ.May_Last word:Layout 1 5/2/08 1:40 PM Page 73

REGAL IMPORTS Protecting your reputation by not compromising standardsThe diamond supplier to the reputable buyer

photo: www.fotograficastudio.com 1

Consumer web linkInteractive inventory price list

Advertising graphics and image download

www.hallmarkofquality.cawww.regalimportsltd.comwww.regalimportsltd.com

Council for responsible jewellery practices

What is CanadaMark?

CanadaMark is a program for identifying the origin of

program.

sentation.

Are CanadaMark diamonds


THE ART OF DIAMOND GRADING

R

1.800.863.2621 T. 604.263.2621 F. 604.263.4008

REGAL IMPORTS LTD.

grading different?

standards.


canadian jeweller magazine may 2008

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