Capitol

ismWhen one is born with a hunger,

this hunger shall never die.

CONTENTSone: abstract

two: research

three: collections that

relate

four: market level

five: silhouette

six: trimmings

seven: details

eight: customer

nine: colour

ten: fabrics

eleven: initial response

twelve: colour ways

thirteen: stand /toile

work

fourteen: penultimate

line ups.

fifteen: final line up

sixteen: look by look/

tech drawings

seventeen: final

photographic line up

eighteen: illustrations

nineteen: evaluation.

The concept is an amalgamation of dystopia, mixed with modern day

misconceptions of the “Beautifully Vulgar”. Entitled “Capitolism” the

collection embodies and resonates the style of the “Citizens of the

Capitol” as written in ‘The Hunger Games’ trilogy of books, and the

latter films based on the literature. To properly compliment the

concept, it is important to embody the spirit of the “Capitolists” for

whom the collection is designed for. To do this, the collection must

be aesthetically pleasurable, yet oxymoronically, it must maintain

a sense of vulgarity throughout. Which will be achieved through

uses of fabric and construction techniques, manipulations of

fabrics et al.

The collection will respect the values of both the citizens of ‘The

Capitol’ as well as the ‘Tributes’. there will be an over emphasis

on silhouette to typify with the ‘Citizens’ as well as a sense of

confusion to the garments, to sympathise with the situation of the

‘Tributes”.

The themes and issues addressed in ‘The Hunger Games’ are indeed

a heightened version of our reality, civil unrest is evident in many

of the worlds cultures, a drift between societies, lends itself to

one, overall, broken society. A government many are unhappy with,

and many citizens living below the bread line is a reality in itself,

and thus, the collection becomes relevant.

There is an anti-tailoring feel to the collection, and through

appropriately sourced inspiration, the collection holds relevancy in

modern day fashion.

It will be designed as a pre-fall 2014 collection, aimed at the

higher end of the fashion spectrum.

“The Capitol is a veritable hive of debauchery, greed and materialism, tinged with an uncomfortable beauty that resonates throughout the city.”

the hunger games trilogy of books, served as a vital inspiration for this

collection. through its themes of survival and hunger for change, as well

as a sense of rebellion, the collection can find its basis in these novels.

the game itself is a game of survival against all odds in a broken,

dystopian society.

“...may the odds be forever in your favour...”

Seneca crane

Seneca crane, head gamemaker of the 74th annual

hunger games barely receives a mention in the novel

‘the hunger games’ whereas in the film he is focused

on much more heavily.

this mans style and sophistication, an exterior so

beautifully presented, an interior seemingly

so vulgar, yet with an unfortunate sentimental side

that would lead to his untimely demise, is the

epitome and very typification of this collection,

the pride taken in his appearance, and self

assured aggorance make him the ideal man.

to play ring leader in such a brutal game

takes a man with a certain amount of gaule

and confidence.

to dissect the man further, seneca crane is a

man of more than one dimension, unlike so

many in the capitol, who, whether through

personal choice or through dictated thought,

typify little with the other citizens of

panem (the ficticious country which forms

the basis of the hunger games) . Crane

spares the lives of the novels protagonists,

be it thourgh pity or through having no

other option, and pays the ultimate price for

his

actions.

brave or foolish, or perhaps just a victim

of his circumstance , this man who was

deemed insignificant in the initial novel

paved the way for real change in the

dystopian world of panem,

stylistically speaking he is , as all capitolist

men are, incredibly well kept, as his

immaculate facial hair and attire would

suggest, fashion with an edge and

fashion that goes against the grain,

in a world falling apart these few

men stand vulgarly tall in the face

of this adversity, for they are in no way

adversed by these circumstances, rather like

the monarchy of old, they are untouchable, the

purest luxury is all that they will accept, and

why not, when its all within your grasp, all one

can do, is try to grasp it all.

out of the fire...

in the year 2011 london and indeed the nation

was plunged into a darkness of which our

country had never seen to such a degree.

there was a sense of unrest and unease

amongst the lower classes of the

country which began to literally spill out

into the streets of the nATion.

dystopia, the supposed ficticious state of

an anti-paradise,, was very much a reality in

the summer of 2011. any citizen could

typify with the angst, but many were horri-

fied by the antics of the

disgruntalled, jaded youth., the sense of re-

bellion, without cause or indeed clue. echoed

throughout the country, and few

believed we as a nation would get though

this period unscarred.

this sense of uncertainty creates a back-

drop from which to design, be it in terms of

colour or silhouette, a river of uncertain

discomfort runs through the collection.

...into the flame.

eyes wide shuteyes wide shut

eyes wide shuteyes wide shut

a higher state

of unconsciousness

a touch of luxury.

the hermes $90,000 crocodile tshirt, one of the

most expensive ready-to-wear garments, ever.

a vulgar display of money over sense, or a thing

of beauty to be celebrated, rather than actually

worn?

Thierry Mugler

Mugler

Mugler

Michel berandi

Michel berandi

a swinging silhouette

from front to back,

gathering in places

to create dramatic

draped effects,

ruching sections to

remove volume in some

sections whilst

maintaing volume in

other places in the

garment.

Pockets in seams,

curved pockets,

placement.

placing pockets into

a seam, situated mid

body to break up the

garment, and add

functionality to the

garments.

curving the side seam

pocket into a semi

circular shape,

through a relaxed

approach to design

adds interest to the

garment.

Dart into neck

by adding the dart into the

neckline, the grown on hood

becomes more shaped,

adding definition to the

hood, in terms of the lapel

area, adding more volume

creates more drama.

The Man.

PANTONE 428 C PANTONE+ Solid CoatedR 193 G 198 B 200L* 79.48 a* -1.29 b* -2.10HTML C1C6C8

PANTONE Cool Gray 10 C PANTONE+ Solid CoatedR 99 G 102 B 106L* 42.91 a* -0.23 b* -2.80HTML 63666A

PANTONE 19-3906 TCX Dark ShadowPANTONE® f + h cotton TCXR 74 G 75 B 77L* 31.94 a* 0.08 b* -1.25HTML 4A4B4D

PANTONE 15-1049 TCX Artisan’s GoldPANTONE® f + h cotton TCXR 242 G 171 B 70L* 76.10 a* 20.84 b* 61.21HTML F2AB46

PANTONE 7597 C PANTONE+ Solid CoatedR 209 G 65 B 36L* 50.67 a* 58.05 b* 50.97HTML D14124

LINING DOUBLE WOOL JERSEY WOOL LEATHER

CREPE

LINING DOUBLE WOOL JERSEY WOOL LEATHER

CREPE

Initial response.

a use of fur, feathers and luxury fabrics shines through in this initial

response to the research. silhouette is a little basic, however can find its

basis in the style of seneca crane, slightly avant garde, a little garish, in

need of much developing.

from the initial

stage of re-

sponce, the

collection

began mov-

ing into a much

more

exciting and

dynamic

direction.

shapes became

far more

dramatic,

exaggerated

and blown out

of all

proportion.

silhouette

became much

more relaxed,

taking on an

anti-tailored

feel, echoing

the research of

michel berandi.

the way the

clothes wor

almost against

the natural

silhouette, yet

enhancing the

form.

throwing

themselves

first back, then

forward, then

back,to

create a

concaved

rounded feel to

the garments.

sleeve heads

are dropped,

rounded, and

relaxed,

extending from

the body of the

garment,

creating bat

wing effects.

gathering plays

a part in the

collection,

channels built

into the

garment

constrain

certain aspects

of the

garments,

whilst others

are remaining

free, this sense

of constraint

versus freedom,

echoes the

story of the

hunger games.

not all

elements are

successful

however,

trouser rises

are much too

low, greatly

diminishing

ability to walk.

as well as

simply not

looking

aesthetically

pleasing.

colourwise,

too dark, too

earthy, it needs

uplifting

somehow, and

placement of

colour needs

greater

consideration.

placement of

fur detailing

needs greater

consideration,

fur

reveres aren’t

going to work,

and a fur

trimmed hem on

a coat is much

too feminine for

this collection.

length wise the

coat in look

six may be too

long, consider

shortening.

trouser pockets

on look three

and patch

pockets on tops

look one and

two need

erradicating.

consideration

of construction

detail, darts,

panels,

pockets and

pocket

placement etc

all need

considering

further and

developing.

a selection of proposed colourways, identifying key

colours for use in the collection, note the inclusion

of gold tones in each colourway. one and two were

discarded early in the process, three and four were

used in the early development stages, and the final

colourway can be seen earlier in the book.

one two three four

from the initial responses and

developed ideas, the collection went

through a metamorphisis into something

much more cohesive and aesthetically

pleasing.

gathering becomes much more

imperitive to the collection, sleeve heads

drop futher down, and different colour

shapes are investigated, forming more

rounded shawl collars on jackets, and

rounded colour wings on shirts.

some of the shapes are a little too

similar in the outerwear garments, could

stand to be varied somewhat.

development

the jacket in look four needs work,

consideration on the placement of the

gathered waistband/hem, make it one or

the other perhaps? perhaps around the

waist is too feminine in shape?

unify pocket shapes throughout the

collection, consider universal details

through each look, to make a more

cohesive aesthetic.

Banana leg trousers.

in this , a digital

print has been

introdced to limited

effect, garments

seem suddenly too

long, particularly

looks one and two.

added skirting

details to

garments, which do

not work too

brilliantly.

shape of the coat

in look six has

become too

exaggerated and

out of proportion

with the concept.

colourwise

however it is

starting to come

together well, the

earthy tones have

been eradicated

however the

metallic gold

remains, creating

a luxurious colour

spectrum.

darts and panel

placement need

much more

consideration.

rather than

simple panels,

consider breaking up

the garments into

more panels, to

create different

silhouettes and

shapes of patterns.

pockets, and pocket

shapes must be

unified.

remove print from

garments, shorten

tshirts and shirts,

rethink silhouette

of coat to a

degree,

something is

missing?

in this revised line

up, several things

have changed,

darts in coats and

jackets have been

replaced by

seperate curved

panels, and

pockets have been

inserted into these

seam lines.

shirts and tshirts

form rounded

scalloped shapes.

the jacket in look

four has had its

waist gather

removed and now

only has one, on

the hem, which has

been dropped to

lengthen the

jacket.

trouser shapes

have taken

inspiration from

the idea of

gathering and

have been banana

legged to create

rusching effects.

develop trousers

further and create

more features with

the banana and

gathering.

consider the coat,

should be more

‘designed’ work with

the fur, grown on

hood perhaps?

the idea of grown

on is something

that is already so

prominent in the

collection with the

grown on shawl

collars in many of

the outerwear

garments,

still needs more

variety.

think about

accessories? i.e.

bags, hats etc.

AT THIS POINT THE

COLLECTION HAS

TAKEN SHAPE, AND

HAS BECOME

LARGELY WHAT IT IS

INTENDED TO BE, A

FEW MINOR TWEEKS

HERE AND THERE,

AND IT WILL BE

COMPLETE.

EVALUATION.

This collection, on a whole, has been relatively

successful, with a few issues along the way. The

garments eventually worked out, after toiling

and re-toiling, they became garments that worked

out well. Some looks are stronger than others,

however there is a continuity to each look, and

every garment works well within the collection,

and indeed they work alone as individual

garments.

Some aspects of the project have been more

difficult than others, due to financial restraints

and spending perhaps too much money on fabrics,

I wasn’t able to afford any manufacture, and

therefore had to make everything myself.

Making is not my strongest skill, and therefore

there was a constant battle with machines in

order to make garments work and look

presentable, which, I believe, did work out well in

the end.

If I were to redo this project, I would have most

of the collection manufactured, as I feel the

quality and luxury aspect of the manufacture side

of the collection has been completely lost.

daniel hunter 2013