Two Hour Car Care Seminar.

Safety First!!!

Use common sense! Stay clear

of moving parts. Never remove

the radiator cap or a hose when

the cooling system is hot.

Never get underneath a jacked

up vehicle unless it is properly

supported.

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I. Warning Indicators and dipsticks - Understanding Your Engine’s Basic Needs - “Check Engine” and “Service Engine Soon” lights

will be covered at the end. Fluids

a) Engine Oil – type and service

intervals

A large amount of heat is created during engine operation. The heat created between some moving parts is so great that an internal combustion engine cannot operate for long before damage will occur. The lubrication system provides a steady supply of pressurized oil to the moving parts of the engine. Lubrication reduces friction heat and keeps parts from wearing against each other. Oil also helps cool the engine, wash away dirt and debris, and reduce noise.

The major components of the lubrication system include:

Oil pan Oil strainer Oil pump Oil filter Oil seals Dipstick Oil pressure indicator Sealing materials

MOTOR OIL

Today's motor oils are made from naturally occurring crude oil (petroleum) or from man-made chemical compounds (synthetics). Some motor oils are made from both and are called partial synthetics.

Motor oils are categorized according to SAE viscosity classes as defined by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE). Viscosity

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is an expression of the ability of a fluid to flow or move. A thick oil at a given temperature does not flow as quickly as a thinner oil at the same temperature, therefore the thicker oil will have a higher viscosity number. Oils are graded according to their viscosity in relation to ambient temperature. Viscosity is an indication of the characteristics of an oil at a given temperature. The viscosity information says nothing about the quality of the oil

Viscosity Grade

The familiar SAE designations for

grades of oil, such as 5W, 10W,

15W, 30, 40, and 50, simply refer

to the viscosity of oil at a specific

temperature.

There are single grade oils and multigrade oils in use today in internal combustion engines. A single grade oil is an oil which performs to its grade through the entire range of temperature. A multigrade oil is an oil which performs differently cold than when

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it is hot. A multigrade oil can be made to act like a thin oil when cold temperatures tend to thicken liquids and act like a thick oil when hot temperatures tend to thin liquids. Multigrade oils are also called multi-viscosity oils.

SAE numbers tell the temperature range that the oil will lubricate best. An SAE 10 classified oil lubricates well at low temperatures but becomes thin at high temperatures. An SAE 30 classified oil lubricates well at mid-range temperatures but becomes thick at low temperatures. Multigrade oils cover more than one SAE viscosity number. Their designations include the two viscosity numbers that the oil has met. For example, SAE 10W30 oil meets the requirements of a 10 weight oil for cold start and cold lubrication, and the requirements of a 30 weight oil for mid temperature lubrication.

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Oil circulates through the engine as follows:

The oil in the oil pan is drawn up through the oil strainer by the oil pump. The strainer filters out large particles.

Oil flows through the oil filter, which filters smaller particles of dirt and debris.

From the oil filter, the oil flows into the main oil passage (or gallery) in the cylinder block.

From the main gallery, oil flows through smaller passages to the camshaft, pistons, crankshaft, and other moving parts. Oil holes and jets direct the flow of oil to critical parts, such as bearings and pistons.

As the oil lubricates the surfaces of moving parts, it is constantly pushed off by new oil. The oil drips from the lubricated surfaces back into the oil pan. In many engines, an oil cooler is used to cool the oil before the oil is drawn back through the oil strainer to repeat the cycle.

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Oil drips off the moving parts into the oil pan. A pump draws the oil from the pan, through a strainer, and forces it under pressure through a filter. After filtering, the oil passes to the lubricating points in the cylinder head and the cylinder block. A pressure relief valve in the oil pump ensures that oil pressure does not exceed engine oil pressure specifications.

Full pressure is used to pump oil through the main oil gallery. Oil from the main gallery lubricates the crankshaft main bearings, connecting rod bearings, camshaft, and hydraulic valve lifters (if equipped). In other parts of the engine, the volume is reduced as oil flows through smaller passages. Pushrod ends and rocker arms receive reduced pressure lubrication.

The lubricating oil in the engine is subjected to great stresses from temperature and contamination. The oil must retain its lubricating ability at temperatures of up to 150° C (300º F). Oil coolers are sometimes used to keep engine oil from getting too hot. Oil coolers transfer heat from oil to the outside air or to engine coolant. The oil is also subjected to chemical stresses from combustion gases, dust, metal particles from wear, and combustion residues. The high temperature and contaminants reduce the ability of the oil to perform well and lead to the formation of sludge.

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The engine oil dipstick is used to measure the level of oil in the oil pan. One end of the dipstick dips into the top of the oil reservoir, and the other end has a handle so it can be pulled out easily. The end that dips into the oil pan has a gauge on it that shows whether oil should be added to the engine.

Note: It‟s important to keep the oil level above the "MIN" line at all times. The crankcase should never be overfilled or allowed to drop too low. Too much oil may permit the crankshaft to contact the oil and churn it until it turns to foam. The oil pump cannot pump foam, and foam will not lubricate. Low oil levels can result in excessively high oil temperatures, which may lead to bearing failure. An oil level that is too high or too low can also increase oil consumption. Consult the Owner's Manual for the correct oil capacity and recommended oil.

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Sometimes the holes pictured here aren‟t there, and sometimes they don‟t reflect the full and empty marks; learn the hash marks or the appropriate words (i.e., „full‟ or „empty‟) on your particular dipstick. Transmission dipstick is similar.

RELATED WARNING INDICATORS: The instrument panel usually has some type of oil pressure indicator that warns the driver when the lubrication system cannot maintain the oil pressure needed by the engine. This indicator may be a gauge or a warning light.

Oil Change Intervals: Assuming 5 quarts of oil

in a particular engine will last 3,000 miles, then 4

quarts in that same engine will break down at

about 1,500 miles!

b) Automatic Transmission Fluid - Service every 30,000 miles (or as owner‟s manual specifies) and use prescribed fluid. Service more often if vehicle has been towing heavy loads. Some of the newest automatic transmissions don‟t have dipsticks, so you might

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not be able to check your own fluid level. (a 99 Cavalier equipped with the 4T40E transaxle is one example) The owner‟s manual will say so if there is no dipstick. In the photo below, the red part is just a filler cap. There is an oil level hole with a threaded plug in the side of the transmission.

I If the transmission has a dipstick (sometimes they‟re

hard to find, but they‟re usually somewhere at the back of the engine in rear wheel drive cars or at the driver side of the engine on front wheel drive vehicles), pull the dipstick out and wipe it off before checking the oil. Next, have a look at the stick. On some vehicles the type of fluid and the necessary gear position (Park or Neutral) required will be stamped on the dipstick.

Always check automatic transmission fluid with the

engine running and warm, but be very careful not to burn yourself. If in doubt, let your technician check the fluid. RELATED WARNING INDICATORS: Not all automatic transmissions have warning indicators, but some Electronic transmissions may flash the overdrive (OD) light or a light that looks like a hollow gear with an exclamation point inside. GM cars may have a “Service Vehicle Soon” light (more later on that) Have the vehicle checked by a service professional if either is the case. Transmission shift quality may be different when the transmission warning indicator is flashing or illuminated.

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c) Brake Fluid – Most cars use Dot 3 brake

fluid (as opposed to Dot 4 or Dot 5, which is silicone based but prone to foam in ABS systems), and if your vehicle has 4 wheel antilock brakes, the fluid should actually be replaced each time the pads are changed, but most

service outlets will balk if you ask them to change the brake fluid. If they agree, make sure they pump all the old fluid through the system rather than simply replacing what‟s in the reservoir.

RELATED WARNING INDICATORS: Every car has a red brake warning light. The red brake warning light is supposed to illuminate when

the park brake is applied, but it can also mean that the brake fluid level is low. If the red brake warning light comes on and the park brake isn‟t applied, check the fluid level, and pay particular attention to the way the brake pedal feels: If the fluid level is okay and the warning indicator is illuminated have your technician check for brake problems. If your ABS light (usually a yellow light) is illuminated, the red brake light may also be illuminated; one can easily be the cause of the other, since the red brake light is also connected to the ABS system. When the ABS light is illuminated, the ABS system will not operate (you might skid in a panic stop), but the service brakes will still work normally. Have the vehicle checked if the ABS light comes on.

d) Power Steering – Use Power Steering

fluid when possible. Even if the owner‟s manual calls for ATF, Power Steering Fluid is still a safe bet.

No warning indicators here. Some power steering systems provide power brake assist, but that‟s generally on older GM diesel cars and heavy duty pickup trucks.

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e) Washer Fluid – Use washer fluid with

alcohol in the winter so the washer fluid wont‟ freeze and burst the reservoir.

RELATED WARNING INDICATORS: No big deal; if your washer fluid light comes on, just pick up a gallon, make sure you‟re pouring it in the right place, and fill „er up.

f) Anti-Freeze (coolant), belts and

hoses – Change every 30,000 regardless of owner‟s

manual recommendations; the orange coolant needs changing just as regularly as the green. The coolant protects the inside of the engine block and prevents rust and corrosion. If the coolant in your engine is rusty looking, it‟s time to have it changed. As for coolant hoses, pay attention to any that seem to be deformed.

Belts should be replaced if the pulley side of the belt is cracked or polished in appearance, and usually belt routing schematics can be found under the hood on a vehicle with serpentine (multigroove) belts, but don‟t try changing a belt if you aren‟t wrench-smart. A belt that is squealing usually needs replacing unless the component it is driving is giving a problem.

Never open a hot cooling system. Check the coolant with the engine cool and NOT running. Try to squeeze the upper radiator hose to see if it has pressure before removing the cap. If the hose is pressurized don‟t remove the cap! RELATED WARNING INDICATORS: Coolant level lights may look like a little radiator, or they may say something like “low coolant.” Temperature warning

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indicators usually look like a thermometer or they may say “Temp” (temperature). Some coolant level senders are checking more than the coolant level; late model GM cars have a $50 sensor in the radiator that checks the percentage and quality of the coolant, so if you‟ve added clear water to the cooling system on your 2001 Buick, you might see a light. A light that looks like a battery may come on if the belt is slipping badly, off the pulleys, or broken.

Don‟t keep driving if that light comes on because the belt that pulls the generator might also be the one that drives the water pump.

g)

g) Manual Transmission Oil – Some

manual transmissions use Automatic Transmission Fluid. Some use 50 weight oil and some use 90 weight oil. The type of oil varies from car to car. Make sure the right kind is used. No warning indicators apply. Watch for leaks, though; running a manual transmission dry of fluid can destroy gears and bearings in short order! No warning indicators here.

h) Differential Oil – Axle oil (obviously

found only on rear wheel or four wheel drive vehicles) almost never needs changing unless problems occur with the gears or seals in the differential, but should be checked regularly. No dipsticks, just an oil level hole in the rear or side of the unit. No warning indicators apply but once again, watch for leaks! Four wheel drive vehicles have a differential in the front and in the rear. No warning indicators here.

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II. Driveline necessities (Drive axles) The purpose of a transmission is to modify the force of the

engine‟s rotational force, (called „torque,‟) and transfer it to the vehicle‟s drive axle through a driveshaft with flexible couplings called „U-joints‟ or „CV joints.‟ The transmission also allows the vehicle to be operated in reverse. Automatic transmissions have many design variations.

Front wheel drive vehicles have constant velocity (CV) joints (see above photo) that are packed with grease and protected with accordion style boots that can split and allow grease to get out and dirt to get in. Most shops don‟t replace

just the boots any more, though. The entire axle usually costs less than $100 and comes with new boots and remanufactured CV joints. It may be hard for you as a consumer to see the boots, but make sure your service technician has a look when he or she is changing your oil.

Worn out Constant Velocity joint

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a) What you can do to keep your

driveline healthy – Keep fluids checked, topped

and changed. Don‟t overfill. Don‟t make jackrabbit starts or pull loads heavier than the vehicle is designed to handle. If you do pull heavy loads, make sure to have the transmission serviced more frequently, since automatic transmission oil begins to get gummy and burned if the transmission is worked harder. Have all oil and/or fluid leaks fixed as soon as possible. Have your CV joint boots checked every time the engine oil is changed and have any necessary repairs made as soon as possible. Report any popping or clicking noises heard while turning; CV joints sound like that when they‟re wearing out, but in most cases, if the boots remain in good shape, the CV joints will last the life of the vehicle.

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III. Tires, Wheels, and Alignment

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Tread wear indicators – This tire is worn out

Pay close attention to your tires; the one in the picture

shows normal wear. Keep an air gauge handy; tire pressure should be checked monthly and any tire that appears to be low may have a slow leak. Check your spare tire regularly!

Cars that are stored in hot garages seem to need the tire pressure adjusted more regularly than cars parked on an open driveway. Low tire pressure (under inflation) will cause tires to wear on the outside edges, while over inflated tires will wear more toward the center of the tread. Since the front tires work so hard to steer the vehicle, the tires should be rotated every time the engine oil is changed for optimum tread life. Radial tires will sometimes separate and cause strange wobbly drive symptoms or rumparumparumpa

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noises. Abnormal tire wear generally means you need to have the alignment checked.

Use your jack and lug wrench to practice changing a tire on your own vehicle in your driveway (it needs to be level concrete or level hard packed dirt) so you‟ll know you have everything you need and where the stuff is found on the car.

WARNING INDICATORS: More and more late model

cars are equipped with tire pressure warning indicators. Some tire pressure warning systems use remote sensors attached to the inside of the wheel rim or inside on the tire‟s valve stem. Other types compare the rolling speed of separate tires to determine whether or not all the tires are inflated properly.

IV. Brakes, Shocks, and Struts. a) BRAKES: Brake linings wear out, usually more on the

front than on the rear, since a vehicle. Keep a close check on the fluid level in the master cylinder and immediately have the brakes checked if you hear unusual noises when braking or if the pedal doesn‟t feel right. Obviously, if the vehicle doesn‟t stop the way it should, the brakes need to be checked. New brake pads are semi-metallic (they have small pieces of metal mixed with the lining material) varying amounts of squealing noises may be normal, even on new brake pads.

b) SHOCK ABSORBERS. Springs support the weight of the car. Shock absorbers keep the car from bouncing. Struts combine the spring and the shock in an assembly that both supports the car and dampens the bouncy oscillations that occur when a vehicle drives over bumps. Shocks and/or struts (some cars have struts on the front and shocks on the back) are usually in need of replacement at about 100,000 miles. A car that bounces more than twice after it is jounced generally needs new shock absorbers. In many, if not most cases, the vehicle will need an alignment after struts are replaced.

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c) ALIGNMENT. Obviously, if your car pulls or shimmys and tire pressure is okay, have the alignment checked.

V. “What is it that’s leaking?”

Oil and coolant leaks tend to blow around under the vehicle while it is being driven, painting the bottom surfaces of the car with a greasy mess and making it hard to determine where the leak or leaks may be originating. Generally speaking, the wet spot on the driveway will help pinpoint the general area of the leak. Be aware that fluid can catch on parts and run to a different area before dripping off the car. Placing a piece of cardboard or a newspaper under the vehicle at the leak point and showing it to the technician sometimes helps when leaks are small or only show up intermittently. When in doubt, about the fluid that is leaking, check to see which fluid level is low. Engine Oil is usually dark and thick, particularly if the engine is cold, unless the oil has just been changed, in which case it may be quite clear. An oil leak may come from anywhere underneath the engine. While the engine and transmission are bolted together, engine oil generally leaks from the engine area, not the transmission area of the powertrain. Automatic Transmission Fluid is red, can seem clear in small quantities, but may be darker if the transmission needs servicing, and isn‟t nearly as thick as engine oil. Will generally leak from the rear of the powertrain but can leak from the radiator or the transmission cooler hoses leading to the radiator. Power Steering Fluid may either be red (if ATF is used for power steering fluid) or clear and can leak from just about anywhere power steering lines run. It can also leak from the power steering pump and/or the power steering gear or rack and pinion. Engine Coolant (Anti Freeze) can either be green, orange, or amber, and different coolant types shouldn‟t be mixed. When adding coolant, unless you‟re beside the road somewhere, try to add a 50/50 mix of water and coolant. If mixing the water and coolant for storage, always use distilled water or the mix may sludge over time. Coolant can leak from anywhere from under the front of the car, since water hoses travel the length and breadth of the engine compartment. On vans coolant may leak from the long heater hoses going to the rear unit.

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Brake or Clutch Fluid (same fluid) is usually clear or amber and will usually show up at one of the wheels, but can leak from the Master Cylinder area, right in front of the driver, or anywhere between the wheels where brake lines run. Manual Transmission oil or rear axle grease can come from the transmission or rear end area. Gasoline evaporates rapidly but generates a hydrocarbon (gas smell) odor.

VI. Language, terms, and logic:

Describing problems to a service

professional. When taking your car in for service, be clear about what you want done and what believe needs fixing. Service Advisors may not always ask the right questions, either. Whenever possible, try to get a service advisor or technician to ride with you or allow you to personally show them what it is you want fixed. I don‟t know how many times was misled by the work order writeup and burned an hour or two working on a non-essential concern, only to find that what I fixed wasn‟t the problem he or she was concerned about. Communication is the key to a good service experience. Some people don‟t want to use the mental energy to describe their problem and many have the idea that any technician worth his salt will automatically use the “magic machine” (HAH! There is no such machine anywhere) to zero in on their concern, but it is important to provide as much information as possible. The machines technicians use can point to a problem area, but in the great majority of cases, the technician has to be sharp enough to interpret the data the machine produces and compare it to the information YOU (the customer) provide in order to determine what the cause of the concern may be. The key to describing a problem the right way is rooted in your own experience. Pay attention to what your car is (or was) doing wrong (take notes if necessary), notice when the problem happens, and how often it occurs. Be as accurate as possible. Unless you want to confuse the technician, don‟t say the problem happens “All the time” when it only

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happens once or twice a week, or even once or twice a day! Here are some guidelines: Is the problem intermittent or chronic? Does the problem happen when the car is cold or hot? Is the car running when the problem occurs, or does it happen after a “hot soak?” (a hot soak happens when the car is at full operating temperature and is parked for a few minutes while the driver goes in a store. With no air or coolant circulating, the engine compartment actually gets hotter for a few minutes before it begins to cool down.) If the „hot soak‟ question answer is no, does the problem occur after the car sits a few hours? If the car is stalling, does it start right back up or do you have to wait awhile? Does it stall while cruising, while stopping, or after you stop? Did the problem just begin to occur or has it been happening for awhile? Have you recently changed your grade of gasoline? (Regardless of what fuel manufacturers would have us think, premium fuels burn slower than lower octane fuel and can actually cause carbon deposits and drivability problems in engines that are designed and electronically tuned for 87 Octane fuel. More expensive isn’t necessarily better when it comes to gasoline. If it calls for 87 Octane, use a good brand of 87 Octane.)

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Short Glossary of descriptive terms (not

exhaustive):

Starting concerns

No Crank (Either clicks or does nothing when the key is turned

to the start position)

Hard start/Long Crank (Cranks but takes a longer than normal

time to start.)

No Start (Cranks normally but won‟t start)

Idle Concerns

Slow to return to idle (Idle speed remains higher than normal

longer than it should when coming to a stop)

Rolling Idle (Idle speed is uneven, surging up and down)

Fast Idle (Idle speed is higher and normal and stays there most

or all of the time)

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Performance While Driving

Stalls/Quits (Idle, Acceleration, Deceleration, or Cruise?) (The

vehicle stops running while driving; make sure you tell the service advisor when the problem occurs and how often)

Runs Rough (Idle, Acceleration, or Cruise?) Engine doesn‟t perform smoothly at any time.

Misses (Idle, Acceleration, or Cruise?) Similar to “Runs Rough,” but happens intermittently with a noticeable loss of power.

Buck/Jerk (Acceleration, Deceleration, or Cruise?) Refers to a

sudden loss of power that returns after just a moment and tries

to jerk a crick in your neck.

Hesitation/stumble (Acceleration) Car “falls on its face” when

applying the throttle, either from a dead standstill or when attempting to pick up speed suddenly on the highway.

Surge (Acceleration or Cruise?) Uneven power at a steady throttle angle and speed or when attempting to accelerate

smoothly.

Backfires (Idle, Acceleration, or Deceleration?) Backfiring can

occur either in the exhaust or back through the intake system. Once again, be clear about when the backfiring occurs.

Lack/Loss of Power (Acceleration or Cruise?) Poor performance with less power than expected.

Spark Knock (Acceleration or Cruise?) pinging noise, usually described as “valve rattle,” but has nothing to do with the

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valves. The combustion mix is exploding earlier than it should,

causing the pistons to make a rattling or pinging noise.

Brake System Concerns

Shudder or chatter Rough, abnormal brake operation that

occurs with machine-gun like feeling when brakes are applied.

Pulsation Similar to Shudder, but at a much lower frequency,

usually felt through the pedal.

Low/spongy Pedal Brake pedal travels farther than it should when brakes are applied and/or feels soft instead of firm.

Hard Pedal Harder than normal pedal feel

Grabbing Wheels slide on mild application

Noise Scrubbing, squealing, popping, etc.

Brake Fade brakes lose their stopping power usually when reducing vehicle speed rapidly right after high speed driving.

Warning indicators related to brakes ABS and red brake warning lights. Red light can mean fluid is low or that part of

the brake system isn‟t functioning. This light “proves out” when the key is turned to the start position on most cars.

Park Brake Concerns (self explanatory)

Inoperative

Low pedal

Won‟t release

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Warning indicator concerns

Steering/Handling

Free Play (steering wheel movement)

Pull (Self explanatory)

Wander (excessive steering correction required)

Oversteer

Understeer

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Shimmy a tooth-chattering vibration that jiggles the steering wheel at certain speeds or after braking. Can be extreme to the point of being dangerous.

Memory Steer a fault-based concern in which the vehicle immediately tends to pull in the same direction as the last turn.

Automatic Transmission Concerns

Upshift concerns Transmission shifts improperly when accelerating to road speed, either rough, late, or not at all.

Downshift concerns Transmission downshifts improperly when coming to a stop, either roughly, late, or not at all.

Engagement concerns Engages harshly or improperly when placed into gear.

Leaks Self explanatory

Indicators „Overdrive‟ or other transmission warning light flashing or illuminated when it shouldn‟t be.

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Manual Transmission Concerns

Shift lever or linkage concerns Shifter loose, tight, won‟t go into all gears, etc.

Clutch Concerns Transmission goes into gear but won‟t pull off. Transmission won‟t go into gear. Pedal is hard or low.

Axle concerns

Noises and vibrations Whining or roaring, clunking, etc. while driving from the rear axle (2WD) or front axle (if 4WD).

Computers, “Check Engine” lights and

stuff.

If your car is newer than a 1988 model, chances are you have a light that says “Check Engine,” “Service Engine Soon,” or “Power Loss.” This light is referred to by the EPA folks as a “Malfunction Indicator Light,” (MIL) and in most

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(not all) cases, the light is amber. On some vehicles the MIL is red. Some GM cars have a “Service Vehicle Soon” light, which is designed to alert the driver of non-emission related powertrain problems (Among other things, computerized transmission related concerns can cause the Service Vehicle Soon light to illuminate).

The Check Engine/Service Engine Soon light might only be an ISO symbol for an engine like the one shown at left, and some folks think this light means they need to check their oil and coolant levels, which isn‟t a bad idea, but the MIL doesn‟t really care about

those things. The MIL generally means that the Powertrain Control

Module (PCM) has detected an emissions related concern that may or may not be causing a problem the driver can feel. This light is an Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) requirement. On most cars built since 1994, the PCM is carefully watching the operation of the catalytic converter as well as the other emissions devices and the fuel system components. The problem isn‟t always something that needs immediate attention. For example, an engine that runs too cold can cause the PCM to illuminate the MIL, since emissions can increase on a cold running engine. A loose fuel filler cap can cause an MIL on newer vehicles, so check your gas cap if the light comes on.

A flashing MIL means the PCM has detected a misfire condition severe enough to damage the catalytic converter with unburned fuel, and while the vehicle isn‟t likely to stall and not start under those conditions, it should not be driven any farther than absolutely necessary when the MIL is flashing, especially if the vehicle is out of warranty. Catalytic converter replacement can cost as much as $1000 on some vehicles, so don‟t take unnecessary chances when it comes to a flashing MIL light!

Richard McCuistian worked as a professional technician for 25 years, holds 9 ASE certifications and teaches Auto Mechanics at Lurleen B. Wallace Community College.

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