SURFING MAGAZINE

carvemag.com ISSUE 122 £3.80

22

9 771354 508054

yoursurfing through

eyesThe end is The beginning

More discoveries in dawn Treaders parT 2

geT TheM To The beachaggy boys on Tour

Survive wipeoutS uSing freediving techniqueS + win a freedive course

cold waTer solace

food for The soul

The rising brilliance of

Julian wilson

40 carve

scott cotterell I just thought it depicts the calm of what surfing is about. Sitting and waiting for that perfect set, the right time to be in the water and just chilling and collecting your thoughts.

carve 41

yoursurfing through

eyesPhotos and caPtions by the caRVe ReadeRshiP

When We knocked around the concept of a reader photo competition We had no idea What a talented and passionate bunch you lot out there in readerland are. the entries flooded in and the carve facebook page became a hotbed of discourse, criticism, sniping and Wit (not to mention accusations of photoshopping and over reliance on sunset images). it Was thoroughly entertaining as Was the campaigning for votes Which neared central american political levels of subtefuge.

the heart of the matter though is the photos submitted by you. the guys We build mags for every month. here are a brace of our favourites from the comp Which are, as you can see, up to the standard of the gear submitted by our regular pro dudes.

to see all the entries check out the gallery on facebook.com/carvemag

40 carve

scott cotterell I just thought it depicts the calm of what surfing is about. Sitting and waiting for that perfect set, the right time to be in the water and just chilling and collecting your thoughts.

carve 41

yoursurfing through

eyesPhotos and caPtions by the caRVe ReadeRshiP

When We knocked around the concept of a reader photo competition We had no idea What a talented and passionate bunch you lot out there in readerland are. the entries flooded in and the carve facebook page became a hotbed of discourse, criticism, sniping and Wit (not to mention accusations of photoshopping and over reliance on sunset images). it Was thoroughly entertaining as Was the campaigning for votes Which neared central american political levels of subtefuge.

the heart of the matter though is the photos submitted by you. the guys We build mags for every month. here are a brace of our favourites from the comp Which are, as you can see, up to the standard of the gear submitted by our regular pro dudes.

to see all the entries check out the gallery on facebook.com/carvemag

turns out. I was happy with my decision to skip the Modern Collective project, there’s no way I would have been able to give as much as I did to Scratching the Surface if I was working on that film too.

—Next up the tour...Did you set out at the start of the season with qualifying as a main goal or did you figure it would be the ‘build experience and work on the seeding’ year?Before the year started I wanted to qualify. Then I got injured and the finishing/premiering of the film kind of took over. I came back and won Sri Lanka but had a bad time during the Europe leg so then I was just figuring I will try my best for the back end of the year and see what happened. Going into Hawaii I was not expecting to qualify.

When did it sink in that you were in with a shot at graduating to the tour?Even after I made both of those finals in Hawaii I still didn’t really think I was going to be on tour. I thought I had to win that last one to be on.

How tense was the heat that sealed the deal?Well I didn’t really have a heat that sealed the deal. I guess if I won Sunset it would have sealed it but either way I still had to see what guys did at Pipe.

Who was the first person you called when it was locked in?I don’t remember. I was doing a photo shoot that day when Pipe was on and I was getting updates about all the guys losing and I started freaking out a little. I was with my brother/manager Bart and it was really cool when the last result went my way.

What did you do to celebrate?Went out for a real nice dinner. Then I got back home and had a bunch of friends over for a bit of a party. Good times.

What are you looking forward to most in your rookie season in the big league? (Just so you know the rest of the world is waiting with bated breath for the Julian/Dane/Jordy heat that has to happen at some point!)There are a bunch of the contests that I am really looking forward to going to for the first time. Hopefully I can make a few heats and come out on top of some pressure situations. I’m just excited to be there! I'd love to be surfing a heat with those guys.

Have the various wildcards you’ve nabbed over the past couple of years helped in getting ready?

JW’s qualification for the 2011 ct means a Dane, JorDy, Wilson heat coulD be coming to your living room pretty soon!

52 carve surfing magazine

Jas

on

ke

nW

or

thy

turns out. I was happy with my decision to skip the Modern Collective project, there’s no way I would have been able to give as much as I did to Scratching the Surface if I was working on that film too.

—Next up the tour...Did you set out at the start of the season with qualifying as a main goal or did you figure it would be the ‘build experience and work on the seeding’ year?Before the year started I wanted to qualify. Then I got injured and the finishing/premiering of the film kind of took over. I came back and won Sri Lanka but had a bad time during the Europe leg so then I was just figuring I will try my best for the back end of the year and see what happened. Going into Hawaii I was not expecting to qualify.

When did it sink in that you were in with a shot at graduating to the tour?Even after I made both of those finals in Hawaii I still didn’t really think I was going to be on tour. I thought I had to win that last one to be on.

How tense was the heat that sealed the deal?Well I didn’t really have a heat that sealed the deal. I guess if I won Sunset it would have sealed it but either way I still had to see what guys did at Pipe.

Who was the first person you called when it was locked in?I don’t remember. I was doing a photo shoot that day when Pipe was on and I was getting updates about all the guys losing and I started freaking out a little. I was with my brother/manager Bart and it was really cool when the last result went my way.

What did you do to celebrate?Went out for a real nice dinner. Then I got back home and had a bunch of friends over for a bit of a party. Good times.

What are you looking forward to most in your rookie season in the big league? (Just so you know the rest of the world is waiting with bated breath for the Julian/Dane/Jordy heat that has to happen at some point!)There are a bunch of the contests that I am really looking forward to going to for the first time. Hopefully I can make a few heats and come out on top of some pressure situations. I’m just excited to be there! I'd love to be surfing a heat with those guys.

Have the various wildcards you’ve nabbed over the past couple of years helped in getting ready?

JW’s qualification for the 2011 ct means a Dane, JorDy, Wilson heat coulD be coming to your living room pretty soon!

52 carve surfing magazine

Jas

on

ke

nW

or

thy

St AgneS reprobAte And mAn of miSAdventure mArcuS LASceLLeS, tuck into hiS breAk 5 winningS.

The basic premise of the Red Bull Break5 event was simple: create an environment where surfers of all abilities from all over the country could converge and have an amazing time, a fantastic experience and then send the winning team off somewhere cool to go and enjoy an extra special time. A trip that would stay with them for a lifetime or hopefully linger in the ‘happy’ department of their memory vault for a little while at least. So now it was time to book them on the magical mystery trip. Not as easy as you may think, unless you took note of the amount of times ‘drank’ appeared in the opening paragraph. Then you may have got the picture.

Singularly the Aggy crew can organise very good piss ups in breweries, and get themselves to the local beach at low tide. Just not without some sort of major incident. As a group, well let's just say the areas reputation is honed on a longstanding lineage of surfing, wayward behaviour, and several international incidents. It's a genetic thing nowadays. Three of the teams fathers (Chops Lascelles, Scappo Skilton and Barry Garland) helped create and maintain this reputation over four decades, so playing up was in their offsprings blood. The other, well he just just displayed a natural disposition as a youth. If all went to form, this was going to be a good old fashioned 'lads surf trip'! I was just hoping no one got arrested, or worse, shot.

Initially I had a master plan for an amazingly professional article. I was going to write reams on each guy after letting the boys fill out their own questionnaires, talking about the trip, travelling with friends, their surfing lives, loves, hopes, fears and aspirations.

However the terms ‘herding cats’, ‘not after a couple of cases of lager’ and ‘what goes away stays away’ spring to mind. So pictures, a few choice quotes (mainly from Marcus and Trev as they were the only completed questionnaires – probably for the best) and basic descriptions will have to suffice. So on that note I think it’s only fair that we meet the winning team.

Josh Ward is a third generation St Agnes surfer, a powerfully built goofy-foot, who likes to put down some big boy turns but loves an air too. Not afraid to get some shots in the mag’s either. Lifeguard extraordinaire and currently in West Oz for the winter, he is a member of the St Agnes Ward dynasty. Four of them — Turnip his father, Drustan his uncle, Jamie his younger brother and Josh himself supervise and guard the Badland beaches. They are never out of the water, except when they are in the pub. Marcus called him a ‘bald headed lovely guy,’ while Trev stuck to ‘juice sucking, bum loving criminal!’ Which will probably earn him a dead arm!

Jeremy Walter is the elder statesman of the crew, but probably the keenest of the bunch. Jez is just a super surf stoked old-school Badlands local; Porthtowan chapter. He teethed on high tide P-town wedges, oft seen throwing tail and fin into the sand. Wry of wit and cynical of tongue. Standard for true locals of this vicinity. This was the first 'boys' surf trip he had been on in a while and he was frothing. Jezza runs the Laminations board factory over in Aggy which pumps out Beach Beats, the odd sparkly glassed Pavells, Nat Young and Cords. If you poke him half a pound of foam dust falls off him. He also

St AgneS reprobAte And mAn of miSAdventure mArcuS LASceLLeS, tuck into hiS breAk 5 winningS.

The basic premise of the Red Bull Break5 event was simple: create an environment where surfers of all abilities from all over the country could converge and have an amazing time, a fantastic experience and then send the winning team off somewhere cool to go and enjoy an extra special time. A trip that would stay with them for a lifetime or hopefully linger in the ‘happy’ department of their memory vault for a little while at least. So now it was time to book them on the magical mystery trip. Not as easy as you may think, unless you took note of the amount of times ‘drank’ appeared in the opening paragraph. Then you may have got the picture.

Singularly the Aggy crew can organise very good piss ups in breweries, and get themselves to the local beach at low tide. Just not without some sort of major incident. As a group, well let's just say the areas reputation is honed on a longstanding lineage of surfing, wayward behaviour, and several international incidents. It's a genetic thing nowadays. Three of the teams fathers (Chops Lascelles, Scappo Skilton and Barry Garland) helped create and maintain this reputation over four decades, so playing up was in their offsprings blood. The other, well he just just displayed a natural disposition as a youth. If all went to form, this was going to be a good old fashioned 'lads surf trip'! I was just hoping no one got arrested, or worse, shot.

Initially I had a master plan for an amazingly professional article. I was going to write reams on each guy after letting the boys fill out their own questionnaires, talking about the trip, travelling with friends, their surfing lives, loves, hopes, fears and aspirations.

However the terms ‘herding cats’, ‘not after a couple of cases of lager’ and ‘what goes away stays away’ spring to mind. So pictures, a few choice quotes (mainly from Marcus and Trev as they were the only completed questionnaires – probably for the best) and basic descriptions will have to suffice. So on that note I think it’s only fair that we meet the winning team.

Josh Ward is a third generation St Agnes surfer, a powerfully built goofy-foot, who likes to put down some big boy turns but loves an air too. Not afraid to get some shots in the mag’s either. Lifeguard extraordinaire and currently in West Oz for the winter, he is a member of the St Agnes Ward dynasty. Four of them — Turnip his father, Drustan his uncle, Jamie his younger brother and Josh himself supervise and guard the Badland beaches. They are never out of the water, except when they are in the pub. Marcus called him a ‘bald headed lovely guy,’ while Trev stuck to ‘juice sucking, bum loving criminal!’ Which will probably earn him a dead arm!

Jeremy Walter is the elder statesman of the crew, but probably the keenest of the bunch. Jez is just a super surf stoked old-school Badlands local; Porthtowan chapter. He teethed on high tide P-town wedges, oft seen throwing tail and fin into the sand. Wry of wit and cynical of tongue. Standard for true locals of this vicinity. This was the first 'boys' surf trip he had been on in a while and he was frothing. Jezza runs the Laminations board factory over in Aggy which pumps out Beach Beats, the odd sparkly glassed Pavells, Nat Young and Cords. If you poke him half a pound of foam dust falls off him. He also

A view to behold. the Right. Not ANotheR suRfeR foR miles.

A view to behold. the Right. Not ANotheR suRfeR foR miles.

jas

on

fe

as

t

joHnnY fRYeR GettInG VeRY Loose foR a Man snUGGeD UP In 6MM of RUBBeR WetsUIteRY.

This bizarre seasonal occurrence happens most years. Generally it's identifiable as the portion of the year that's grey and not quite as warm as the grey and warm bit of the year known as 'summer'. Other sure signs of it being winter are a lack of tourists at the beach, a 5% lessening in the amount of surfers in the water, your 3mm wetsuit being mildly uncomfortable and creme eggs being widely available.

In the last two years this status quo has shifted, winter has got its claws back, no longer does it hover in the low double digit ˚C for a few months before returning us to the warmth. It has been proper nasty, with snow, ice, travel woes and lots of other chaos type things that make rolling news networks very happy. You'd kinda think we had never had a proper winter before. Half a day of snow and everyone runs around with their hands in the air like the world is about to end in a frozen water based apocalypse.

The roads turn to ice rinks, the trains curse selling off the snow plough attachment they used to have in the old days and the airports, those bastions of high tech, grind to a halt. No one seems to have suggested adding some little skis on the bottom of the 747s so they can land on our woefully unheated runways or using

BY sHaRPY

Take a lOOk OuT The windOw. whaT dO yOu see? snOw, ice, dull grey meTallic clOuds, swirls Of rubbish and a cOnfused

pigeOn being blOwn arOund by The gale ThaT’s been blOwing fOr The lasT week sTraighT? if sO yOu mighT be experiencing a

curiOus meTeOrOlOgical phenOmenOn knOwn as ‘winTer’.

A sidewAys look At the best And worst seAson.

jas

on

fe

as

t

joHnnY fRYeR GettInG VeRY Loose foR a Man snUGGeD UP In 6MM of RUBBeR WetsUIteRY.

This bizarre seasonal occurrence happens most years. Generally it's identifiable as the portion of the year that's grey and not quite as warm as the grey and warm bit of the year known as 'summer'. Other sure signs of it being winter are a lack of tourists at the beach, a 5% lessening in the amount of surfers in the water, your 3mm wetsuit being mildly uncomfortable and creme eggs being widely available.

In the last two years this status quo has shifted, winter has got its claws back, no longer does it hover in the low double digit ˚C for a few months before returning us to the warmth. It has been proper nasty, with snow, ice, travel woes and lots of other chaos type things that make rolling news networks very happy. You'd kinda think we had never had a proper winter before. Half a day of snow and everyone runs around with their hands in the air like the world is about to end in a frozen water based apocalypse.

The roads turn to ice rinks, the trains curse selling off the snow plough attachment they used to have in the old days and the airports, those bastions of high tech, grind to a halt. No one seems to have suggested adding some little skis on the bottom of the 747s so they can land on our woefully unheated runways or using

BY sHaRPY

Take a lOOk OuT The windOw. whaT dO yOu see? snOw, ice, dull grey meTallic clOuds, swirls Of rubbish and a cOnfused

pigeOn being blOwn arOund by The gale ThaT’s been blOwing fOr The lasT week sTraighT? if sO yOu mighT be experiencing a

curiOus meTeOrOlOgical phenOmenOn knOwn as ‘winTer’.

A sidewAys look At the best And worst seAson.

Postcards From the Ledge

It’s a pretty bum winter in Europe in the main, the epic off the scale sessions have been happening in other warmer parts of the world...The Pacific has been on fire unleashing unseasonal south swells and booming north swells to the delight of the US west coasters and

Hawaiians. In Oz cyclones and tropical storms have been firing in ‘best ever’ swells with such regularity you can’t turn on the Interweb without seeing yet another bonkers line up that looks like it's been drawn by a surf stoked grom.

In short somewhere has been pumping pretty much the whole winter while we’ve stared at snow and bog all swell. Sometimes we score, sometimes we don’t, on the plus side there’s got to be some Spring swell soon! SO until there are some waves enjoy these chunks of rest of the world gold.

sim

on

wil

lia

ms

P A R K O , K I R R A australia’s Gold Coast is having an amazing season with plenty of cyclone action (surfers— happy, everyone that’s flooded from the rains— not happy). Not only that but the legendary Kirra bank was back with a bang with an amazing six to eight foot swell reeling down the bar. Seasoned observers said one out of five waves running down the bank was ‘all time’. Top pros, now all armed with jet skis to fight the rip, filled their boots. This is Parko posing for the unmistakable barnet of Mick Fanning.

Postcards From the Ledge

It’s a pretty bum winter in Europe in the main, the epic off the scale sessions have been happening in other warmer parts of the world...The Pacific has been on fire unleashing unseasonal south swells and booming north swells to the delight of the US west coasters and

Hawaiians. In Oz cyclones and tropical storms have been firing in ‘best ever’ swells with such regularity you can’t turn on the Interweb without seeing yet another bonkers line up that looks like it's been drawn by a surf stoked grom.

In short somewhere has been pumping pretty much the whole winter while we’ve stared at snow and bog all swell. Sometimes we score, sometimes we don’t, on the plus side there’s got to be some Spring swell soon! SO until there are some waves enjoy these chunks of rest of the world gold.

sim

on

wil

lia

ms

P A R K O , K I R R A australia’s Gold Coast is having an amazing season with plenty of cyclone action (surfers— happy, everyone that’s flooded from the rains— not happy). Not only that but the legendary Kirra bank was back with a bang with an amazing six to eight foot swell reeling down the bar. Seasoned observers said one out of five waves running down the bank was ‘all time’. Top pros, now all armed with jet skis to fight the rip, filled their boots. This is Parko posing for the unmistakable barnet of Mick Fanning.

SURFING MAGAZINE

THE BIG FREEZE: WHY BRIT SURFERS WERE THE BIG WINNERS, P92

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SAM LAMIROY’S WEST COAST ODYSSEYALGERIA PUMPS!WORLD SURFING RESERVES: COMING SOON TO AN ICONIC BREAK NEAR YOU!

RUSS AND A PACK OF FROTHING GROMS STRIKE MOROCCAN GOLD

RUSS AND A PACK OF FROTHING

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insane new brit slab tamed

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10 incredible years

How to choose the perfect gun

Why the Noughties Were a

momeNtous decade for surfiNg

10 future stars iNsaNe moves from

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boom time: amazing autumn swell bonanza!

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REAL LIFE STORY The man who split in half • OLI ADAMS Sweet spring sesh • SCOTLAND Survival at the O'Neill CWC

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