chapter 1 routine maintenance and servicing - ford euro...

1

Chapter 1Routine maintenance and servicing

Air cleaner element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31Air cleaner temperature control check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29Auxiliary drivebelt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20Battery electrolyte level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .see “Weekly checks”Battery terminal check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17Brake hydraulic fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33Brake hydraulic system seal and hose renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32Brake pipe and hose check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26Choke adjustment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9Contact breaker point renewal and distributor lubrication

- OHV engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23Crankcase ventilation system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28Emission control filter element renewal - CVH engines . . . . . . . . . . .30Engine coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36Engine idle speed check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3Engine valve clearance check - OHV engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7Fluid leak check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5Fluid level checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .see “Weekly checks”Front and rear brake pad/shoe check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Front wheel alignment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35Gearbox oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22Handbrake check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19Hinge and lock check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14HT lead, distributor cap and ignition circuit check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13Ignition timing and contact breaker gap (dwell angle) check

- OHV engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15Intensive maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1Mixture adjustment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27Roadwheel security check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6Spark plug check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21Steering and suspension security check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24Throttle damper operation check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16Timing belt renewal - CVH engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34Tyre checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .see “Weekly checks”Underbody inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25Wiper blade check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .see “Weekly checks”

1•1

Contents

Easy, suitable fornovice with littleexperience

Fairly easy, suitablefor beginner withsome experience

Fairly difficult,suitable for competentDIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable forexperienced DIYmechanic

Very difficult,suitable for expert DIYor professional

Degrees of difficulty

54321Servicing SpecificationsLubricants and fluids See end of “Weekly checks”

CapacitiesEngine oilWith filter:

1.0 and 1.1 OHV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.25 litres (5.7 Imp pints)1.3,1.4 and 1.6 CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.50 litres (6.2 Imp pints)

Without filter:1.0 and 1.1 OHV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.75 litres (4.8 Imp pints)1.3, 1.4 and 1.6 CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.25 litres (5.7 Imp pints)

Cooling system (including heater)1.0 and 1.1 OHV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.5 litres (9.7 Imp pints)1.3 and 1.4 CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.3 litres (11.1 Imp pints)1.6 CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0 litres (14.1 Imp pints)

Fuel tankAll models - pre 1985, except XR2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 litres (7.5 gallons)XR2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 litres (8.4 gallons)All models - 1985 on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 litres (8.8 gallons)

Gearbox4-speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.8 litres (4.9 Imp pints)5-speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.1 litres (5.5 Imp pints)

1•2 Servicing SpecificationsEngineOil filter type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C104Valve clearances (only OHV applicable):

Inlet:At operating temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.22 mm (0.009 in)Cold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 to 0.25 mm (0.008 to 0.010 in)

Exhaust:At operating temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.59 mm (0.023 in)Cold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.56 to 0.61 mm (0.022 to 0.024 in)

Cooling systemDrivebelt tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 mm (0.16 in) total deflection at the midpoint of the belt’s longest run

Fuel systemAir filter element type:

1.0 and 1.1 (OHV) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W1531.3 (CVH) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W1271.4 (CVH) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W1791.6 (CVH) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W201

Ignition systemSpark plugs:

Make and type:Mechanical system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RS9YCC or RS9YCElectronic system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC7YCC or RC7YC

Electrode gap:RS9YCC and RC7YCC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.80 mm (0.032 in)RS9YC and RC7YC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.75 mm (0.030 in)

Note: The spark plug gap quoted is that recommended by Champion for their specified plugs listed above. If spark plugs of any other type are tobe fitted, refer to their manufacturer’s recommendations.Contact breaker points gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.40 to 0.50 mm (0.016 to 0.020 in)Dwell (mechanical ignition):

Angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48° to 52°Variation (from idle to 2000 rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4° maximumOverlap (lobe-to-lobe variation) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3° maximum

Timing (initial):1.0 litre OHV (pre 1986) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12° BTDC1.1 litre OHV (pre 1986) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6° BTDC

Ignition HT lead set:Resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 k ohms maximum per leadType:

Mechanical system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion CLS 8 boxed setElectronic system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion CLS 9 boxed set

BrakesFront brake pad friction material minimum thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 mm (0.059 in)Rear brake shoe friction material minimum thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm (0.04 in)

TyresTyre sizes:Note: Manufacturers often modify tyre sizes and pressure recommendations. The following is intended as a guide only. Refer to your vehiclehandbook or a Ford dealer for the latest recommendations.

XR2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185/60 HR 13Other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 SR 13, 155/70 SR 13 or 165/65 SR 13

Tyre pressures: See end of “Weekly checks”

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftEngine oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Radiator coolant drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 1.1Gearbox oil filler/level plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 20Roadwheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 74Spark plugs:

OHV engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 to 20 10 to 15CVH engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 20

Brake caliper piston housing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17

The maintenance intervals in this manualare provided with the assumption that you willbe carrying out the work yourself. These arethe minimum maintenance intervalsrecommended by the manufacturer forvehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep yourvehicle in peak condition at all times, you may

wish to perform some of these proceduresmore often. We encourage frequentmaintenance, because it enhances theefficiency, performance and resale value ofyour vehicle.

If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, usedto tow a trailer, or driven frequently at slow

speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys,more frequent maintenance intervals arerecommended.

When the vehicle is new, it should beserviced by a factory-authorised dealerservice department, in order to preserve thefactory warranty.

Maintenance schedule 1•3

1

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weeklymm Refer to “Weekly checks”

Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or 6 months - whichever comes soonermm Renew engine oil and filter (Section 3) mm Check brake pads or shoes for wear (front and

rear) (Section 4) mm Check operation of brake fluid level warning

indicator (Section 4) mm Inspect engine bay and underside of vehicle for

fluid leaks or other signs of damage (Section 5) mm Check function and condition of seat belts

(Section 6)mm Check condition and security of exhaust system

(Section 7)mm Check tightness of wheel nuts (Section 8)mm Check choke adjustment (Section 9)mm Check idle speed (Section 10) mm Check mixture adjustment (Section 11) mm Check spark plugs (Section 12)mm Check HT leads, distributor cap and ignition circuit

(Section 13) mm Check operation of latches, check straps and

locks; lubricate if necessary (Section 14)mm Check ignition timing and contact breaker gap

(dwell angle) (OHV engines) (Section 15) mm Check operation of throttle damper (where

applicable) (Section 16)

Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or12 months - whichever comes sooner(continued)mm Renew spark plugs (Section 21) mm Check gearbox oil level (Section 22) mm Renew distributor contact breaker points and

lubricate distributor - OHV engines (Section 23)mm Check security and condition of steering and

suspension components, gaiters and boots(Section 24)

mm Inspect underbody and panels for corrosion orother damage (Section 25)

mm Inspect brake pipes and hoses (Section 26) mm Road test (Section 27)mm Check crankcase ventilation system (Section 28)

Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or 2years - whichever comes soonermm Check air cleaner temperature control (Section 29)mm Renew emission control filter element - CVH

engines (Section 30)mm Renew air cleaner element (Section 31)

Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or 3years - whichever comes soonermm Renew brake hydraulic system seals and hoses if

necessary (Section 32) mm Renew brake hydraulic fluid (Section 33) mm Renew timing belt - CVH engines (Section 34)mm Check front wheel alignment (Section 35)

Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or12 months - whichever comes soonermm Check tightness of battery terminals, clean and

neutralise corrosion (Section 17) mm Check engine valve clearances - OHV engines

(Section 18) mm Check handbrake mechanism (Section 19) mm Check condition and tension of auxiliary drivebelt

(Section 20) Every 2 years, regardless of mileagemm Renew coolant (Section 36)

1•4 Maintenance - component locationEngine compartment - OHV

1 Coolant expansion tank

2 Engine oil dipstick

3 Oil filter

4 Ignition coil

5 Brake fluid reservoir

6 Battery

7 Cooling fan

8 Oil filler cap

9 Carburettor (air cleaner removed)

10 Alternator

11 Washer reservoir

Engine compartment - CVH

1 Coolant expansion tank

2 Engine oil dipstick

3 Carburettor (air cleaner removed)

4 Fuel pump

5 Distributor

6 Ignition coil

7 Windscreen wiper motor

8 Ignition amplifier module

9 Battery

10 Brake fluid reservoir

11 Cooling fan

12 Oil filler cap

13 Washer reservoir

Maintenance - component location 1•5

1

Underside view of car at rear

1 Rear silencer

2 Brake secondary cable

3 Fuel tank

4 Suspension coil spring

5 Shock absorber lower mounting

6 Panhard rod

7 Anti-roll bar (certain models only)

8 Towing eye

9 Axle beam

10 Exhaust system mounting

11 Handbrake adjustment check plunger

12 Suspension trailing arm

13 Brake pressure control valve

Underside view of car at front - CVH

1 Suspension arm

2 Driveshaft

3 Tie-bar

4 Alternator

5 Sump

6 Exhaust

7 Starter motor

8 Engine/gearbox bearer

9 Gearbox

10 Disc brake caliper

11 Gearchange rod and stabilizer rod

1 Introduction

This Chapter is designed to help the homemechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety,economy, long life and peak performance.

The Chapter contains a mastermaintenance schedule, followed by Sectionsdealing specifically with each task in theschedule. Visual checks, adjustments,component renewal and other helpful itemsare included. Refer to the accompanyingillustrations of the engine compartment andthe underside of the vehicle for the locationsof the various components.

Servicing your vehicle in accordance withthe mileage/time maintenance schedule andthe following Sections will provide a plannedmaintenance programme, which should resultin a long and reliable service life. This is acomprehensive plan, so maintaining someitems but not others at the specified serviceintervals, will not produce the same results.

As you service your vehicle, you willdiscover that many of the procedures can -and should - be grouped together, because ofthe particular procedure being performed, orbecause of the close proximity of twootherwise-unrelated components to oneanother. For example, if the vehicle is raisedfor any reason, the exhaust can be inspectedat the same time as the suspension andsteering components.

The first step in this maintenanceprogramme is to prepare yourself before theactual work begins. Read through all theSections relevant to the work to be carriedout, then make a list and gather together allthe parts and tools required. If a problem isencountered, seek advice from a partsspecialist, or a dealer service department.

2 Intensive maintenance

If, from the time the vehicle is new, theroutine maintenance schedule is followedclosely, and frequent checks are made of fluidlevels and high-wear items, as suggestedthroughout this manual, the engine will bekept in relatively good running condition, andthe need for additional work will be minimised.

It is possible that there will be times whenthe engine is running poorly due to the lack ofregular maintenance. This is even more likelyif a used vehicle, which has not receivedregular and frequent maintenance checks, ispurchased. In such cases, additional workmay need to be carried out, outside of theregular maintenance intervals.

If engine wear is suspected, a compressiontest will provide valuable informationregarding the overall performance of the maininternal components. Such a test can be usedas a basis to decide on the extent of the workto be carried out. If, for example, acompression test indicates serious internal

engine wear, conventional maintenance asdescribed in this Chapter will not greatlyimprove the performance of the engine, andmay prove a waste of time and money, unlessextensive overhaul work is carried out first.

The following series of operations are thosemost often required to improve theperformance of a generally poor-runningengine:

Primary operationsa) Clean, inspect and test the batteryb) Check all the engine-related fluidsc) Check the condition and tension of the

auxiliary drivebeltd) Renew the spark plugse) Inspect the distributor cap and HT leads -

as applicablef) Check the condition of the air cleaner

filter element, and renew if necessaryg) Renew the fuel filter (if fitted)h) Check the condition of all hoses, and

check for fluid leaksi) Check the idle speed and mixture settings

- as applicableIf the above operations do not prove fully

effective, carry out the following secondaryoperations:

Secondary operationsa) Check the charging systemb) Check the ignition systemc) Check the fuel systemd) Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm -

as applicablee) Renew the ignition HT leads - as applicable

3 Engine oil and filter renewal 11 Frequent oil and filter changes are the mostimportant preventative maintenanceprocedures which can be undertaken by theDIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomesdiluted and contaminated, which leads topremature engine wear.2 Before starting this procedure, gathertogether all the necessary tools and materials.Also make sure that you have plenty of cleanrags and newspapers handy, to mop up anyspills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm,as it will drain better, and more built-upsludge will be removed with it. Take care,however, not to touch the exhaust or anyother hot parts of the engine when workingunder the vehicle. To avoid any possibility ofscalding, and to protect yourself frompossible skin irritants and other harmfulcontaminants in used engine oils, it isadvisable to wear gloves when carrying outthis work. Access to the underside of thevehicle will be greatly improved if it can beraised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked

up and supported on axle stands (see“Jacking and vehicle support”). Whichevermethod is chosen, make sure that the vehicleremains level, or if it is at an angle, so that thedrain plug is at the lowest point.3 Slacken the drain plug about half a turn (seeillustration). Position the draining containerunder the drain plug, then remove the plugcompletely. If possible, try to keep the plugpressed into the sump while unscrewing it byhand the last couple of turns. Recover thesealing washer from the drain plug.

4 Allow some time for the old oil to drain,noting that it may be necessary to repositionthe container as the oil flow slows to a trickle.5 After all the oil has drained, wipe off thedrain plug with a clean rag. Check the sealingwasher for condition, and renew it ifnecessary. Clean the area around the drainplug opening, and refit the plug. Tighten theplug to the specified torque.

6 Move the container into position under theoil filter.7 Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary,slacken the filter initially, then unscrew it byhand the rest of the way (see illustration).Empty the oil from the old filter into thecontainer, and discard the filter.8 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt andsludge from the filter sealing area on theengine. Check the old filter to make sure thatthe rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to theengine. If it has, carefully remove it.

1•6 Maintenance procedures

3.3 Removing the sump drain plug

6000 Mile (10 000 Km) / 6 Month Service

Remove the engine oil drainplug quickly so that thestream of oil runs into thecontainer, not up your sleeve!

9 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil tothe sealing ring on the new filter, then screw itinto position on the engine. Tighten the filterfirmly by hand only - do not use any tools.Wipe clean the filter and sump drain plug.10 Remove the old oil and all tools fromunder the car, then lower the car to theground (if applicable).11 Remove the oil filler cap and withdraw thedipstick. Fill the engine, using the correctgrade and type of oil (see “Lubricants andfluids” and “Capacities” in the Specifications).An oil can spout or funnel may help to reducespillage. Pour in half the specified quantity ofoil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil tofall to the sump. Continue adding oil a smallquantity at a time until the level is up to thelower mark on the dipstick. Finally, bring thelevel up to the upper mark on the dipstick.Insert the dipstick, and refit the filler cap.

12 Start the engine and run it for a fewminutes; check for leaks around the oil filterseal and the sump drain plug. Note that theremay be a delay of a few seconds before the oilpressure warning light goes out when theengine is first started, as the oil circulatesthrough the engine oil galleries and the new oilfilter, before the pressure builds up.13 Switch off the engine, and wait a fewminutes for the oil to settle in the sump oncemore. With the new oil circulated and the filtercompletely full, recheck the level on thedipstick, and add more oil as necessary.14 Dispose of the used engine oil safely.

4 Front and rear brakepad/shoe check 1

1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack upthe front and rear of the car and support itsecurely on axle stands (see “Jacking andvehicle support”).2 For a quick check, the front brake disc padscan be inspected without removing the frontwheels by inserting a mirror between eachcaliper and roadwheel (see illustrations). Ifany one pad is worn down to the minimumspecified thickness, all four pads (on bothfront wheels) must be renewed.3 For a comprehensive check, the brake discpads should be removed and cleaned. Theoperation of the caliper can then also bechecked, and the condition of the brake discscan be fully examined on both sides. Refer toChapter 9 for further information.

4 The rear brake shoe friction material can beinspected for wear without removing theroadwheels. Working beneath the vehicle,prise the plug from the brake backplate andusing an inspection lamp or torch, check thatthe friction material thickness is not less thanthe minimum given in the Specifications (seeillustrations). If any one of the shoes hasworn below the specified limit, the shoes mustbe renewed as an axle set (4 shoes).5 At the same interval, check the function ofthe brake fluid level warning light. Chock thewheels, release the handbrake and switch onthe ignition. Unscrew and raise the brake fluidreservoir cap whilst an assistant observes thewarning light: it should come on as the levelsensor is withdrawn from the fluid. Refit thecap.6 On completion, refit the wheels and lowerthe car to the ground.

5 Fluid leak check 1

1 Visually inspect the engine joint faces,gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oilleaks. Pay particular attention to the areasaround the rocker cover, cylinder head, oilfilter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind thatover a period of time some very slightseepage from these areas is to be expectedbut what you are really looking for is anyindication of a serious leak. Should a leak befound, renew the offending gasket or oil sealby referring to the appropriate Chapter(s) inthis manual.2 Similarly, check the transmission for oilleaks, and investigate and rectify andproblems found.3 Check the security and condition of all theengine related pipes and hoses. Ensure thatall cable-ties or securing clips are in place andin good condition. Clips which are broken ormissing can lead to chafing of the hoses,pipes or wiring which could cause moreserious problems in the future.4 Carefully check the condition of all coolant,fuel and brake hoses. Renew any hose whichis cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Crackswill show up better if the hose is squeezed.Pay close attention to the hose clips thatsecure the hoses to the system components.Hose clips can pinch and puncture hoses,resulting in leaks. If wire type hose clips areused, it may be a good idea to replace themwith screw-type clips.5 With the vehicle raised, inspect the fueltank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and

Every 6000 miles or 6 months 1•7

4.2b Inspect the disc brake pads throughthe caliper housing aperture

4.4b . . . to check the rear brake linings forwear

4.4a Remove the inspection plug from therear brake backplate . . .

4.2a Using a mirror to check disc brakepads for wear

3.7 Removing the engine oil filter with aclamp wrench

1

Leaks in the cooling systemwill usually show up aswhite or rust-coloureddeposits around the area

adjoining the leak.

other damage. The connection between thefiller neck and tank is especially critical.Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connectinghose will leak due to loose retaining clamps ordeteriorated rubber.6 Similarly, inspect all brake hoses and metalpipes. If any damage or deterioration isdiscovered, do not drive the vehicle until thenecessary repair work has been carried out.Renew any damaged sections of hose or pipe.7 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metalfuel lines leading away from the petrol tank.Check for loose connections, deterioratedhoses, crimped lines and other damage. Payparticular attention to the vent pipes andhoses which often loop up around the fillerneck and can become blocked or crimped.Follow the lines to the front of the vehiclecarefully inspecting them all the way. Renewdamaged sections as necessary.8 From within the engine compartment,check the security of all fuel hose attachmentsand pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hosesand vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing anddeterioration.9 Check the condition of all exposed wiringharnesses.

6 Seat belt check 11 Periodically check the belts for fraying orother damage. If evident, renew the belt.2 If the belts become dirty, wipe them with adamp cloth using a little detergent only.3 Check the tightness of the anchor bolts andif they are ever disconnected, make quite surethat the original sequence of fitting ofwashers, bushes and anchor plates isretained.

7 Exhaust system check 1With the vehicle raised on a hoist or

supported on axle stands (see “Jacking andvehicle support”), check the exhaust systemfor signs of leaks, corrosion or damage andcheck the rubber mountings for condition andsecurity (see illustration). Where damage orcorrosion are evident, renew the systemcomplete or in sections, as applicable, usingthe information given in Chapter 4.

8 Roadwheel security check 1With the wheels on the ground, slacken

each wheel bolt by a quarter turn, thenretighten it immediately to the specifiedtorque.

9 Choke adjustment check 2On models equipped with carburettors of

Ford manufacture, refer to Chapter 4, Section9 and check that the choke is adjusted withinthe stated parameters.

10 Engine idle speed check 3Note: Refer to the precautions given inSection 1 of Chapter 4 before proceeding.Note: Before carrying out any carburettoradjustments, ensure that the ignition timingand spark plug gaps are set as specified. Tocarry out this adjustment, an accuratetachometer will be required.

Ford 1V carburettor1 Ensure that the air cleaner is correctly fitted,and that all vacuum hoses and pipes aresecurely connected and free from restrictions,then run the engine until it is at normaloperating temperature.2 With the engine at normal operatingtemperature, adjust the idle speed screw (seeillustration) to obtain the specified idle speed,using a tachometer to ensure accuracy.

Ford VV carburettor3 This procedure must be carried out with theradiator cooling fan in operation. To keep thefan running during the adjustment procedure,disconnect the wiring multi-plug from thethermal switch (located in the thermostathousing) and bridge the two contacts in theplug with a short length of wire (seeillustration). Disconnect the wire and refit themulti-plug on completion of the adjustments.Make sure that the engine and ignition areswitched off when connecting anddisconnecting the bridging wire.4 Ensure that the air cleaner is correctly fitted,and that all vacuum hoses and pipes aresecurely connected and free from restrictions,then run the engine until it is at normaloperating temperature.5 With the engine at normal operatingtemperature, connect a tachometer inaccordance with the manufacturer’sinstructions.6 Start the engine, run it at 3000 rpm for 30seconds and then let it idle. Turn the idlespeed adjusting screw in or out as necessaryto bring the speed to that given in the Specifi-cations (see illustration).

1•8 Every 6000 miles or 6 months

7.1 Inspect the exhaust system rubbermounting

10.3 Temporary bridging wire in coolingfan thermal switch multi-plug

10.6 Ford VV carburettor idle speed screw(A) and mixture screw (B)

10.2 Ford 1V carburettor idle speed screw(A) and mixture screw (B)

Weber 2V carburettor7 Refer to the information relating to the Ford1V carburettor for details, and to theaccompanying illustration (see illustration)for the adjusting screws. Ensure that theengine fan is operating by pulling the twowires from the sensor, and connecting thewires with a jumper lead.

Weber 2V DFTM 8 Before carrying out this adjustment, ensurethat the air cleaner is correctly fitted and thatall vacuum hoses and pipes are securelyconnected and free from restrictions. Run theengine until it is at normal operatingtemperature.9 The cooling fan must be kept runningduring the adjustment procedure. To do this,disconnect the wiring multi-plug from thethermal switch (located in the thermostathousing) and bridge the two contacts in theplug with a short length of wire.10 Start the engine and turn the idle speedadjustment screw (see illustration) to obtainthe specified idle speed, using a tachometerto ensure accuracy.

Weber 2V TLD carburettor 11 Refer to the information relating to theWeber 2V DFTM carburettor for details, and tothe accompanying illustration (see illustration)for the adjusting screws.

Weber (1V) TLM carburettor12 Before carrying out this adjustment,ensure that the air cleaner is correctly fittedand that all vacuum hoses and pipes aresecurely connected and free from restrictions.Run the engine until it is at normal operatingtemperature.13 Connect a reliable tachometer to theengine in accordance with the manufacturer’sinstructions.14 Increase the engine speed to 3000 rpmand hold it at this speed for 30 seconds, thenallow the engine to idle. Adjust the idle speedto within the specified range by turning theidle speed screw (see illustration).

11 Mixture adjustment check 3Note: Refer to the precautions given inSection 1 of Chapter 4 before proceeding.Note: Before carrying out any carburettoradjustments, ensure that the ignition timingand spark plug gaps are set as specified. Tocarry out the adjustments an accuratetachometer and an exhaust gas analyser (COmeter) will be required. Adjustment of the idlemixture setting should not be attempted interritories where this may cause a violation ofexhaust emission regulations. Where theseregulations are less stringent the followingprocedures may be used.

Ford 1V carburettor1 Ensure that the air cleaner is correctly fittedand that all vacuum hoses and pipes aresecurely connected and free from restrictions,then run the engine until it is at normaloperating temperature.2 Using a small screwdriver, prise out thetamperproof plug (if fitted) over the idlemixture screw.3 Connect the CO meter and tachometeraccording to the manufacturer’s instructions.4 Adjust the idle speed to the specified setting.5 Run the engine at 3000 rpm for 30 secondsto clear the inlet manifold of excess fuel.Repeat this operation every 30 secondsduring the adjustment procedure.

6 Turn the idle mixture screw in the desireddirection to achieve the fastest possibleengine speed consistent with smooth, evenrunning or the correct specified CO readingon the meter scale.7 If necessary, readjust the idle speed settingon completion. Fit a new tamperproof plug tothe mixture screw.

Ford VV carburettor8 This procedure must be carried out with theradiator cooling fan in operation. To keep thefan running during the adjustment procedure,disconnect the wiring multi-plug from thethermal switch (located in the thermostathousing) and bridge the two contacts in theplug with a short length of wire. Disconnectthe wire and refit the multi-plug on completionof the adjustments. Make sure that the engineand ignition are switched off when connectingand disconnecting the bridging wire.9 To adjust the mixture accurately, connect aCO (exhaust gas) analyser and a tachometerin accordance with the manufacturer’sinstructions. 10 Ensure that the air cleaner is correctlyfitted and that all vacuum hoses and pipes aresecurely connected and free from restrictions,then run the engine until it is at normaloperating temperature.11 Using a thin, sharp screwdriver, prise outthe tamperproof plug which covers themixture screw.12 Start the engine and run it at 3000 rpm for30 seconds, then allow it to return to idle. Turnthe mixture screw in (weak) or out (rich) untilthe CO level is within the specified range asindicated on the analysing equipment. Theadjustment must be carried out within 30seconds; otherwise, again increase the enginespeed for 30 seconds before continuing withthe adjustment.13 Once the mixture is correct, adjust the idlespeed then recheck the mixture.14 Switch off the engine and remove thetachometer and the exhaust gas analyser. Fita new tamperproof plug to the mixture screw.15 In the absence of a suitable exhaust gasanalyser, an approximate setting of themixture screw may be made by turning thescrew inwards (engine idling) until the idlespeed just begins to drop. Unscrew the screw


10.11 Weber 2V TLD carburettor mixturescrew (A) and idle speed screw (B)

10.14 Weber (1V) TLM carburettor idlespeed screw (A) and mixture screw (B)

10.10 Weber 2V DFTM carburettor mixturescrew (A) and idle speed screw (B)

10.7 Weber 2V carburettor idle speedscrew (A) and mixture screw (B)

1

the smallest amount necessary to achievesmooth idle. The CO level of the exhaust gasshould be checked by your dealer at theearliest opportunity and further adjustmentcarried out as may be necessary.

Weber 2V carburettor16 Refer to the information relating to theFord 1V carburettor for details. Ensure thatthe engine fan is operating by pulling the twowires from the sensor, and connecting thewires with a jumper lead.

Weber 2V DFTM carburettor17 The cooling fan must be kept runningduring the adjustment procedure. To do this,disconnect the wiring multi-plug from thethermal switch (located in the thermostathousing) and bridge the two contacts in theplug with a short length of wire.18 Ensure that the air cleaner is correctlyfitted and that all vacuum hoses and pipes aresecurely connected and free from restrictions,then run the engine until it is at normaloperating temperature.19 Using a small screwdriver, prise out thetamperproof plug (if fitted) over the idlemixture screw.20 Connect the CO meter and tachometeraccording to the manufacturer’s instructions.21 Adjust the idle speed to the correct setting.22 Run the engine at 3000 rpm for 30seconds to clear the inlet manifold of excessfuel. Repeat this operation every 30 secondsduring the adjustment procedure.23 Turn the idle mixture screw in the desireddirection to achieve the fastest possibleengine speed consistent with smooth, evenrunning; or the correct specified CO readingon the meter scale.24 If necessary, readjust the idle speedsetting. Refit the cooling fan multi-plug and fita new tamperproof plug.

Weber 2V TLD carburettor 25 Refer to the information relating to theWeber 2V DFTM carburettor for details.

Weber (1V) TLM carburettor 26 Ensure that the air cleaner is correctlyfitted and that all vacuum hoses and pipes aresecurely connected and free from restrictions,then run the engine until it is at normaloperating temperature.

27 With the engine at normal operatingtemperature, connect a tachometer andexhaust gas analyser in accordance with themanufacturer’s instructions.28 Prise out the tamperproof plug from themixture screw hole in the throttle valve block.29 Wait for the radiator cooling fan tooperate, then raise the engine speed to 3000rpm, hold it at this speed for 30 seconds,return to idle and check the exhaust CO levelon the exhaust gas analyser. If it is not asspecified, turn the mixture screw (clockwise toweaken) and repeat the checking procedure.30 On completion, fit a new tamperproofplug.

12 Spark plug check 11 Pull the HT lead from each plug by graspingthe end connector. Clean around each sparkplug (see illustration). Remove each plug(see illustration) and check its electrode gap,which should be within the limits stated inSpecifications.2 To adjust the gap, bend the outer electrodewith a proper spark plug gapping tool.Recheck the gap using feeler blades or wiregauges (see illustrations).3 Note that the correct functioning of eachplug is vital for the correct running andefficiency of the engine. It is essential that theplugs fitted are appropriate for the engine andthe suitable type is specified at the beginningof this Chapter. Spark plug cleaning is rarely

necessary and should not be attempted unlessspecialised equipment is available as damagecan easily be caused to the firing ends.4 The appearance of a removed spark plugcan give some indication of the condition orstate of tune of the engine, but as modernengines run on a weaker fuel/air mixture inorder to conform to current emission controlregulations, a rather whiter appearance of thespark plug electrode area must be expectedthan was the case on older cars. As themixture control is preset during production, ablack appearance of the plug electrode willnormally be due to oil passing worn pistonrings or valve stem oil seals, unless thecarburettor has been tampered with.5 When installing the plugs use a long reachsocket, apply a little grease to the threads of theplugs (see illustration) and tighten them only tothe specified torque wrench setting. Overtight-ening may damage the plug or its seat.


12.1a Clean around each spark plug . . .

12.2a Measuring a spark plug electrodegap with a feeler blade

12.5 Lightly grease the spark plug threadsbefore fitting

12.2c Adjusting a spark plug electrodegap with a special tool

12.2b Measuring a spark plug electrodegap with a wire gauge

12.1b . . . before using a socket to removethe spark plugs

13 HT lead, distributor cap andignition circuit check 1

1 Clean each HT lead by wiping along itslength with a fuel-moistened cloth and inspectit for damage. 2 Note the fitted position of each lead beforedisconnection (see illustrations). Whenremoving a lead from a spark plug or the HTcoil, pull the lead off by its rubber connector(see illustration).3 The socket contacts on the distributor capshould be cleaned if they appear corroded(see illustration). A smear of petroleum jelly(not grease) applied to the ferrule on the endof the HT lead will help to prevent corrosion.4 Remove the distributor cap and rotor arm. 5 Examine the rotor arm and inside of thedistributor cap . If the contacts are corrodedor are excessively burnt, or if the carboncentre contact in the cap is worn away, renewthe cap or rotor, as necessary. Checkcarefully for hairline cracks and signs ofarcing. Make sure that the HT leads arereinstalled in their correct firing order.6 Check that all HT and LT electrical leads arecorrectly routed and clear of all moving or hotengine components. Ensure that all leadconnections are secure and where applicable,protected.

14 Hinge and lock check andlubrication 1

1 Work around the vehicle, and lubricate thebonnet, door and tailgate hinges with a lightmachine oil.2 Lightly lubricate the bonnet releasemechanism and exposed sections of innercable with a smear of grease.3 Check the security and operation of allhinges, latches and locks, adjusting themwhere required.4 Check the condition and operation of thetailgate struts, renewing them if either isleaking or is no longer able to support thetailgate securely when raised.

15 Ignition timing and contactbreaker gap (dwell angle)check - OHV engines

3Contact breaker gap (dwellangle)1 Access to the distributor is improved byremoving the air cleaner unit.2 Prise down the distributor cap retainingclips or remove the securing screws, asappropriate. Remove the distributor cap androtor.

3 Apply a spanner to the crankshaft pulleybolt and turn the crankshaft until thedistributor points are fully open, with the heelof the cam follower on the highest point ofone of the lobes of the cam. 4 Using feeler blades, check the points gap(see illustration). If the blade is not a slidingfit, release the screw at the fixed contact sothat the contact will move and adjust the gapto that specified. Retighten the screw, refit therotor and cap. Take care not to contaminatethe points with oil from the feeler blades.5 This method of adjustment should beregarded as second best as on modernengines, setting the points gap is usuallycarried out by measuring the dwell angle.6 The dwell angle is the number of degreesthrough which the distributor cam turnsduring the period between the instants ofclosure and opening of the contact breakerpoints. Checking the dwell angle not onlygives a more accurate setting of the contactbreaker gap, but this method also evens outany variations in the gap which could becaused by pitting of the points, wear in thedistributor shaft or its bushes, or difference inheight of any of the cam peaks.7 The dwell angle should be checked with adwell meter connected in accordance with themaker’s instructions. Refer to the Specifica-tions for the correct dwell angle. If the dwellangle is too large, increase the points gap. If itis too small, reduce the gap.


13.2c Pull the HT lead connector - not thelead

15.4 Checking the contact breaker pointsgap using a feeler blade

13.3 Inspect each HT lead end ferrule forcorrosion

13.2b HT lead connections - CVH engines13.2a HT lead connections - OHV engines

1

8 The dwell angle should always be adjustedbefore checking and adjusting the ignitiontiming, as follows:

Ignition timing9 Before checking the timing, check andadjust the dwell angle with the engine atnormal operating temperature.10 Increase the contrast of the notch in thecrankshaft pulley and the appropriate mark onthe timing index (refer to Specifications) byapplying quick-drying white paint (seeillustration).11 Connect a timing light (stroboscope) inaccordance with the manufacturer’sinstructions.12 Start the engine and allow it to idle.13 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from thedistributor and plug the pipe with a piece of rod.14 If the timing light is now directed at theengine timing marks, the pulley notch willappear to be stationary and opposite the

specified mark on the scale. If the marks arenot in alignment, release the distributor clamppinch-bolt (see illustration) and turn thedistributor in whichever direction is necessaryto align the marks.15 Retighten the pinch-bolt, switch off theengine, remove the timing light and reconnectthe vacuum pipe.16 It may now be necessary to check andadjust the engine idle speed if the distributorsetting has to be varied to any extent.

16 Throttle damper operationcheck 2

1 To check the operation of the throttledamper fitted to models equipped with a FordVV carburettor, proceed as follows:2 Warm up the engine to normal operatingtemperature, then switch off. Connect atachometer in accordance with themanufacturer’s instructions. To keep the fan

running during the adjustment procedure,disconnect the wiring multi-plug from thethermal switch (located in the thermostathousing) and bridge the two contacts in theplug with a short length of wire.3 Start the engine and increase its speed to3200 ± 150 rpm by means of the idle speedadjustment screw. When the speed hasstabilised, switch off the engine.4 Rotate the secondary throttle leverclockwise to remove any play between theprimary and secondary throttle levers, butensure that the primary lever does not move.5 Using a feeler blade, unscrew the damperuntil a clearance of 0.1 to 0.3 mm existsbetween the damper plunger and thesecondary throttle lever (see illustration).Hold the damper in this position and tightenthe locknut.6 Start the engine and return the idle speed tothe specified rpm. Disconnect the tachometerand bridging wire, refit the multi-plug, thenrefit the air cleaner.

17 Battery terminal check 1

1 To clean the battery terminals disconnectthem, negative earth first, after having firstremoved the cover (where fitted). Use a wirebrush or abrasive paper to clean theterminals. Bad corrosion should be treated

with a solution of bicarbonate of soda, appliedwith an old toothbrush. Do not let this solutionget inside the battery.2 Coat the battery terminals with petroleumjelly or a proprietary anti-corrosive compoundbefore reconnecting them (see illustration).Reconnect and tighten the positive (live) leadfirst, followed by the negative (earth) lead. Donot overtighten.

18 Engine valve clearancecheck - OHV engines 2

1 This operation should be carried out withthe engine cold and the air cleaner, sparkplugs and rocker cover removed.2 Using a ring spanner or socket on thecrankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft in aclockwise direction until No 1 piston is at topdead centre (TDC) on its compression stroke.This can be verified by checking that thepulley and timing cover marks are in


15.10 Ignition timing marks - mechanicalignition system

A Crankshaft pulley notchB Timing cover scale

16.5 Setting throttle damper clearanceusing a feeler blade (arrowed) -

Ford VV carburettor

17.2 Protect each battery terminal beforereconnection

15.14 Distributor clamp plate pinch-bolt(arrowed)

12 000 Mile (20 000 Km) / 12 Month Service

To keep corrosion to aminimum, coat the batteryterminals with petroleumjelly or a proprietary anti-

corrosive compound.

When checking valveclearances, it will be easierto turn the engine by hand ifthe spark plugs are removed

but take care not to allow dirt to enterthe spark plug holes.

Warning: Before carrying outany work on the vehicle battery,read through the precautionsgiven in “Safety first!” at the

beginning of this manual.

alignment and that the valves of No 4 cylinderare rocking. When the valves are rocking, thismeans that the slightest rotation of thecrankshaft pulley in either direction will causeone rocker arm to move up and the other tomove down.3 Numbering from the thermostat housingend of the cylinder head, the valves areidentified as follows:

Valve No Cylinder no1 - Exhaust 12 - Inlet 13 - Exhaust 24 - Inlet 25 - Exhaust 36 - Inlet 37 - Exhaust 48 - Inlet 4

4 Adjust the valve clearances by following thesequence given in the following table. Turnthe crankshaft pulley 180° (half a turn) afteradjusting each pair:

Valves rocking Valves to adjust7 and 8 1 (Exhaust), 2 (Inlet)5 and 6 3 (Exhaust), 4 (Inlet)1 and 2 7 (Exhaust), 8 (Inlet)3 and 4 5 (Exhaust), 6 (Inlet)

5 The clearances for the inlet and exhaustvalves are different (see Specifications). Use afeeler blade of the appropriate thickness tocheck each clearance between the end of thevalve stem and the rocker arm. The bladeshould be a stiff sliding fit. If it is not, turn theadjuster bolt with a ring spanner. These boltsare of stiff thread type and require no lockingnut. Turn the bolt clockwise to reduce theclearance and anti-clockwise to increase it(see illustration).6 Refit the rocker cover, spark plugs and aircleaner on completion of adjustment.

19 Handbrake check 2Pre-September 1985 models1 Adjustment of the handbrake is normallyautomatic by means of the self-adjustingmechanism working on the rear brake shoes.2 However, due to cable stretch, checking ofthe handbrake adjustment is recommended.Adjustment must be carried out if themovement of the lever becomes excessive(more than six notches). Proceed as follows:3 Chock the front wheels then fully releasethe handbrake.4 Raise and support the vehicle at the rearwith safety stands.5 On adjustment check that the plungerprotrudes from each rear brake backplate(see illustration), their respective length ofmovement indicating the handbrakeadjustment condition. Before checking theirmovement (stroke) length, firmly apply thefootbrake to ensure that the automaticadjuster mechanism is fully actuated.6 Now check the plunger stroke movement. Ifthe total movement of both sides added

together is between 0.5 and 3.0 mm thenadjustment is satisfactory. This should givethree to six clicks (notches) of handbrakeapplication movement. If there is nomeasurable plunger movement or if the totalmeasurement exceeds that specified adjustas follows.7 Loosen the handbrake cable locknut, thenrotate the adjuster sleeve (see illustration) sothat the plungers can just rotate and the totalmovement of both plungers is as specifiedabove.8 Hand tighten the locknut against the sleeveso that two engagement clicks are felt, thenfurther tighten another two clicks using asuitable wrench.

Models from September 19859 Proceed as above, noting that sinceSeptember 1985 a locking pin has been fittedto the cable adjuster abutment bracket to lockthe adjuster sleeve and locknut together.10 Should it be necessary to adjust thecable, the locking pin must be removed bypulling it out using pliers (see illustration).After adjustment a new nylon locking pin mustbe used and can be fitted by carefully tappingit into place.

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months 1•13

19.10 Removing the handbrake cable adjuster locking pin

19.7 Handbrake cable assembly

A Primary cableB Equaliser

C Adjuster sleeveD Locknut

E Secondary cable

19.5 Handbrake adjustment indicatorplunger

18.5 Adjusting a valve clearance - OHV

1

20 Auxiliary drivebelt check 2Inspection1 Check the full length of the drivebelt forcracks and deterioration. It will be necessaryto turn the engine in order to check thatportion of the drivebelt is in contact with thepulleys.2 Check that the total deflection of theauxiliary drivebelt is 4.0 mm at the mid pointof its longest run (see illustration).3 Note that if the belt is too slack, it will slipand soon become glazed or burnt and thecoolant pump (OHV) and alternator will notperform correctly, with consequentoverheating of the engine and low batterycharge. If the belt is too tight, the bearings inthe alternator and/or coolant pump will soonbe damaged.4 If necessary, renew or tension the belt asfollows:

Renewal5 To remove a belt, slacken the alternatormounting bolts and the bolts on the adjusterlink (see illustration), push the alternator intowards the engine and slip the belt from thepulleys.6 Fit the belt by slipping it over the pulley rimswhile the alternator is still loose on itsmountings. Never be tempted to remove or fita belt by prising it over a pulley withoutreleasing the alternator. Either the pulley willbe damaged or the alternator or coolant pumpwill be distorted.

Tensioning7 To change the belt tension, pull thealternator away from the engine until the beltis fairly taut and nip up the adjuster strap bolt.A little trial and error may be required toobtain the correct tension.8 Do not lever against the body of thealternator to tension the belt or damage mayoccur.9 Recheck the tension of the drivebelt afterthe engine has been run for ten minutes.

21 Spark plug renewal 1

1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs isvital for the correct running and efficiency ofthe engine. It is essential that the plugs fittedare of the type appropriate for the engine.2 Make sure that the ignition is switched offbefore inspecting the HT leads to see if theycarry their cylinder numbers - if not, numbereach lead using sticky tape or paint.3 Where necessary, for improved access,remove the air cleaner assembly.4 Disconnect the leads from the plugs bypulling on the connectors, not the leads.5 Clean the area around each spark plugusing a small brush, then using a plugspanner (preferably with a rubber insert),

unscrew and remove the plugs. Cover eachexposed spark plug hole with a clean rag toprevent the ingress of any foreign matter.6 Before fitting new spark plugs, check thatthe threaded connector sleeves are tight. 7 Check the electrode gap of each plug witha feeler blade of the specified thickness and ifnecessary, bend the outer electrode with aproper spark plug gapping tool to set the gapto the specified clearance.8 Coat the threads of each plug with suitableanti-seize compound, taking care not tocontaminate the electrodes.9 Screw in the spark plugs by hand, thentighten them to the specified torque. Do notexceed the torque figure.10 Push the HT leads firmly onto the sparkplugs and where necessary, refit the aircleaner assembly.

22 Gearbox oil level check 1Caution: Gearbox oil can foam when hotand give a false level reading. Allow thegearbox to cool before checking the oillevel.Note: Regular oil changing is not specified bythe manufacturers but the gearbox oil can bedrained if necessary (prior to removal of theunit or after traversing a flooded road forexample) by removing the selector shaftlocking mechanism (see illustration).1 The following procedure should be adoptedwhen checking the oil level on all gearboxtypes.2 Ensure that the car is standing on levelground and the gearbox is cool.3 Unscrew the filler plug from the front face ofthe gearbox. The plug is of socket-headedtype and a suitable key will be required forremoval (see illustration).4 With the plug removed, check the oil level.To do this accurately, make up an oil levelcheck dipstick from a short length of weldingrod or similar material. Make a 90° bend in therod, then mark the downward leg in 5 mmincrements. The dipstick is then insertedthrough the filler plug orifice so that theunmarked leg rests flat on the plug orifice

1•14 Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

20.2 Auxiliary drivebelt tension checkingpoint - OHV

22.3 Gearbox oil filler plug location(arrowed)

22.0 Remove the selector shaft lockingmechanism to drain the gearbox oil

A Selector shaftcap nut

B SpringC Interlock pin

20.5 Alternator adjuster and mountingbolts - OHV

A Adjuster link clamp boltB Adjuster link-to-block boltC Lower front mounting boltD Lower rear mounting bolt

Number each HT lead usingsticky tape or paint beforeremoval so as to avoidconfusion when refitting.

threads, with the marked leg dipped in the oil.Withdraw the dipstick and read off the level ofoil.5 On gearboxes manufactured up to August1985 the oil level must be maintained between5 and 10 mm below the lower edge of the fillerplug hole.6 On gearboxes manufactured fromSeptember 1985 onwards the oil level mustbe maintained between 0 and 5 mm below thelower edge of the filler plug hole.7 To determine the date of gearboxmanufacture, locate the aluminium build codetag which will be attached to one of thegearbox housing retaining bolts. The gearboxpart number is stamped on the tag and if thelast letter of the part number suffix is a “D”,then the gearbox is of the early type. If the lastletter of the suffix is an “E”, then the gearboxis of the later type.8 Top-up the gearbox with the specified typeof oil if necessary until the level is correct forthe gearbox type (see “Lubricants and fluids”).Take care not to overfill the unit as this canlead to excessive heat build-up, increasedleakage and impaired gear changing.9 On completion, refit the filler plug.

23 Contact breaker pointrenewal and distributorlubrication - OHV engines

31 If necessary, remove the air cleanerassembly to allow ready access to thedistributor. Identify and disconnect the leadsfrom the spark plugs, prise down thedistributor cap clips or remove the screws,and place the cap and leads to one side.2 Remove the rotor arm.3 Pull off the contact breaker LT lead from thepoints (see illustration).4 Unscrew and remove the screw from thefixed contact arm. Take great care not to dropthe screw into the interior of the distributor: ifnecessary, cover the openings in the

baseplate with rag before starting to removethe screw.5 With the screw removed, lift out the contactbreaker assembly.6 Fit and adjust the new contact breaker set,leaving the securing screw loose until the gaphas been set.7 Apply a little high melting-point grease tothe distributor cam. (Grease may be suppliedwith the new contact breaker set.)8 Refit the rotor arm and the distributor capand reconnect the spark plug leads in theirpreviously noted location.9 Check and adjust the dwell angle and theignition timing.

24 Steering and suspensionsecurity check 1

1 Check the shock absorbers by bouncingthe vehicle up and down at each corner inturn. When released, it should come to restwithin one complete oscillation. Continuedmovement, or squeaking and groaning noisesfrom the shock absorber suggests thatrenewal is required.2 With the weight of the vehicle on itsroadwheels, inspect all of the suspension

flexible bushes for wear and check the torquewrench settings of all bolts and nuts.3 Raise and support the vehicle. Examine allsteering and suspension components forwear, damage and fluid leakage. Payparticular attention to dust covers and gaiters(see illustration), which if renewed promptlywhen damaged can save further damage tothe component protected.4 At the same intervals, check the frontsuspension lower arm balljoints for wear bylevering up the arms (see illustration).Balljoint free movement must not exceed 0.5mm. The track rod end balljoints can bechecked in a similar manner, or by observingthem whilst an assistant rocks the steeringwheel back and forth. If the lower arm balljointis worn, the complete lower arm must berenewed.5 Wheel bearings can be checked for wear byspinning the relevant roadwheel. Anyroughness or excessive noise indicates wornbearings, which must be renewed, as noadjustment is possible. It is unlikely that anywear will be evident unless the vehicle hascovered a very high mileage. It should benoted that it is normal for the bearings toexhibit slight endfloat, which is perceptible aswheel rock at the wheel rim.

25 Underbody inspection 11 Except on vehicles with a wax-basedunderbody protective coating, have the wholeof the underframe of the vehicle steam-cleaned, engine compartment included, sothat a thorough inspection can be carried outto see what minor repairs and renovations arenecessary. 2 Steam-cleaning is available at manygarages and is necessary for the removal ofthe accumulation of oily grime whichsometimes is allowed to become thick in

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months 1•15

24.4 Apply leverage to check for excessiveballjoint wear

24.3 Inspect the steering rack bellows23.3 Contact breaker points removal

A LT lead connectorB Securing screw

C Vacuum advance strutcirclip

1

certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities arenot available, there are some excellent greasesolvents available, which can be brush-applied; the dirt can then be simply hosed off.3 After cleaning, position the vehicle over a pit,or raise it at front and rear on ramps or axlestands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).4 Using a strong light, work around theunderside of the vehicle, inspecting it forcorrosion or damage. If either is found, referto Chapter 11 for details of repair.

26 Brake pipe and hose check 11 Periodically inspect the rigid brake pipes forrust and other damage, and the flexible hosesfor cracks, splits or “ballooning” (seeillustration). Have an assistant depress thebrake pedal (ignition on) and inspect the hoseand pipe unions for leaks. Renew anydefective item without delay.

27 Road test 1Instruments and electricalequipment1 Check the operation of all instruments andelectrical equipment.2 Make sure that all instruments readcorrectly, switch on all electrical equipment inturn to check that it functions properly.

Steering and suspension3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering,suspension, handling or road “feel”.4 Drive the vehicle, and check that there areno unusual vibrations or noises.5 Check that the steering feels positive, withno excessive “sloppiness”, or roughness, andcheck for any suspension noises whencornering, or when driving over bumps.

Drivetrain6 Check the performance of the engine,clutch, transmission and driveshafts.7 Listen for any unusual noises from theengine, clutch and transmission.8 Make sure that the engine runs smoothlywhen idling, and that there is no hesitationwhen accelerating.9 Where applicable, check that the clutchaction is smooth and progressive, that thedrive is taken up smoothly, and that the pedaltravel is not excessive. Also listen for anynoises when the clutch pedal is depressed.10 Check that all gears can be engagedsmoothly, without noise, and that the gearlever action is not abnormally vague or“notchy”.

Check the operation andperformance of the brakingsystem11 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull toone side when braking, and that the wheelsdo not lock prematurely when braking hard.12 Check that there is no vibration throughthe steering when braking.13 Check that the handbrake operatescorrectly, without excessive movement of the

lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationaryon a slope.14 Test the operation of the brake servo unitas follows. With the engine off, depress thefootbrake four or five times to exhaust thevacuum. Start the engine, holding the brakepedal depressed. As the engine starts, thereshould be a noticeable “give” in the brakepedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engineto run for at least two minutes, and thenswitch it off. If the brake pedal is depressednow, it should be possible to detect a hissfrom the servo as the pedal is depressed.After about four or five applications, no furtherhissing should be heard, and the pedal shouldfeel considerably firmer.

28 Crankcase ventilationsystem check 1

1 Inspect the crankcase ventilation systemfor blockage or damage. A blocked hose cancause a build-up of crankcase pressure,which in turn can cause oil leaks.2 Inspect each hose for distortion, perishingand correct routing. 3 Clean the oil filler cap with solvent andcheck that the vent hose connections are notblocked (see illustration).4 Clean the emission control orifice located inthe oil filler assembly with solvent (seeillustration).

1•16 Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

26.1 Bend flexible brake hoses to checkfor splitting and decay

28.4 Clean emission control orifice insolvent - OHV shown

28.3 Oil filler cap and breather hoses

29 Air cleaner temperaturecontrol check 2

Note: A vacuum pump will be required for thischeck if the heat sensor or diaphragm unit isat fault.1 The air cleaner temperature control unit canbe checked for operation whilst the engine iscold. Look into the air inlet spout and checkthat the air control flap valve is in the shutposition (see illustration).2 Now start the engine and allow it to idle.The flap valve should open fully to allow thewarm air to be drawn into the cleaner unitfrom the exhaust manifold ducting. As theengine warms up to its normal operatingtemperature the flap valve shouldprogressively close to allow cooler air to enterthe cleaner unit.3 If the valve is stuck in the shut position,check the vacuum lines for condition andsecurity. If these are in order, then the heatsensor or diaphragm unit is at fault. Proceedas follows:4 Detach the diaphragm-to-heat sensorvacuum pipe (at the sensor end) and connectup a vacuum pump to the diaphragm. Pumpand apply a vacuum up to 100 mm of mercuryand retain this whilst checking the air flap.5 If the flap opens, the heat sensor isdefective and must be renewed, but if itremains shut then the diaphragm or controlflap is faulty.6 Disconnect the vacuum pump andreconnect the vacuum pipe to the sensor unit.

30 Emission control filterelement renewal - CVHengines

11 Gain access to the emission control filter bydetaching the hose from the air cleaner unit(see illustration).

2 Withdraw the used filter and fit a new item.Ensure that the hose is securely reconnected.

31 Air cleaner element renewal 11 Renew the air cleaner element by firstremoving the air cleaner unit lid. To do this,undo and remove the retaining screws andprise free the lid from the retaining clipsaround its periphery (see illustration).2 Remove and discard the paper element andwipe out the air cleaner casing (seeillustration).3 Place the new element in position and refitthe lid.

32 Brake hydraulic system sealand hose renewal 3

If in doubt as to the condition of any of thebrake system seals and hoses, then renewdefective items whilst referring to the relevantSections of Chapter 9.

33 Brake hydraulic fluid renewal 21 An assistant and bleeding equipment willbe needed. A considerable quantity ofhydraulic fluid will be required - probablyabout 2 litres.

2 Slacken the front wheel nuts. Raise andsupport the front of the vehicle and removethe front wheels.3 Remove the hydraulic fluid reservoir cap.4 Open both front bleed screws one full turn.Attach one bleed tube to each screw, placingthe free end of each tube in a jar.5 Pump the brake pedal to expel fluid fromthe bleed screws. Pause after each upstroketo allow the master cylinder to refill.

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years 1•17

31.1 Remove the air cleaner lid securingscrews . . .

30.1 Detach hose downwards for accessto crankcase emission filter in air cleaner

body

29.1 Air cleaner inlet sensor anddiaphragm flap valve operating modes

1 Sensor cold 2 Sensor hot

1

24 000 Mile (40 000 Km) / every 2 years

36 000 Mile (60 000 Km) / every 3 years

31.2 . . . to expose the air cleaner element

6 When air emerges from both bleed screws,stop pumping. Detach the left-hand caliperwithout disconnecting it and remove theinboard brake pad.7 Depress the caliper piston, using apurpose-made tool or a blunt item such as atyre lever, to force more fluid out of thecaliper. Hold the piston depressed and havethe assistant pump the pedal until air emergesfrom the bleed screw again.8 Tighten the bleed screw on the left-handcaliper. Loosely refit the caliper and pad sothat the piston is not accidentally ejected.9 Repeat the purging operation on the right-hand caliper, but do not refit it or tighten thebleed screw yet.10 Fill the reservoir with fresh hydraulic fluid.Position the bleed jar for the right-handcaliper at least 300 mm above the level of thebleed screw.11 Have the assistant pump the brake pedaluntil fluid free of bubbles emerges from thebleed screw. Tighten the bleed screw at theend of a downstroke.

12 Place a piece of wood in the caliper jawsto limit piston travel. Keep your fingers clearof the piston. Have the assistant depress thebrake pedal gently in order to move thecaliper piston out.13 With the pedal held depressed, slackenthe bleed screw on the right-hand caliper andagain depress the piston. Tighten the bleedscrew when the piston is retracted. The pedalcan now be released.14 Disconnect the bleed tube. Refit the right-hand brake pad and caliper.15 Remove the left-hand caliper and inboardpad again. Carry out the operations describedin paragraphs 10 to 14 on the left-handcaliper.16 Bleed the rear brakes as described inChapter 9.17 Refit the front wheels, lower the vehicleand tighten the wheel nuts.18 Pump the brake pedal to bring the padsup to the discs, then make a final check of thehydraulic fluid level. Top-up and refit thereservoir cap.

34 Timing belt renewal - CVHengines 3

Timing belt renewal is recommended forCVH engines. Refer to Chapter 2, Part B forthe appropriate renewal procedure.

35 Front wheel alignment check 3Due to the need for precision equipment to

accurately measure the small angles of thesteering and suspension settings appertainingto front wheel alignment, it is preferable toleave this work to a specialist. However, if youwish to check front wheel alignment yourself,refer to the information given in Chapter 10.

36 Engine coolant renewal 1Draining1 It is preferable to drain the system when thecoolant is cold. If it must be drained when hot,release the pressure cap very slowly havingfirst covered it with a cloth to avoid anypossibility of scalding. 2 Set the heater control to maximum heatposition.3 Place a container under the radiator andrelease the bottom hose or, where fitted,unscrew the radiator drain plug and allow thesystem to drain into the container (seeillustrations).

Flushing4 Provided the coolant is of the specifiedtype, then no flushing should be necessary.5 Where the system has been neglected

however, and rust or sludge is evident atdraining, then the system should be flushedthrough with a cold water hose inserted intothe thermostat housing (thermostat removed)until the water flows clean from thedisconnected bottom hose and the radiator.If, after a reasonable period, the water stilldoes not run clear the radiator can be flushedwith a good proprietary cleaning agent.6 In severe cases, the drain plug on thecylinder block of OHV models can beunscrewed to assist sludge removal andflushing (see illustration). On CVH modelsthere is no drain plug on the cylinder block soyou will need to detach the bottom hose.7 If the radiator is suspected of beingclogged, remove it and reverse flush it with acold water hose. The normal coolant flow isfrom left to right (from the thermostat housingto the radiator) through the matrix and out ofthe opposite side.8 When the coolant is being changed, it isrecommended that the overflow pipe isdisconnected from the expansion tank and

the coolant drained from the tank. If theinterior of the tank is dirty, remove it andthoroughly clean it out. Evidence of oil withinthe expansion tank may indicate a leakingcylinder head gasket.

Refilling9 Reconnect the radiator and expansion tankhoses, and refit the cylinder block drain plug(OHV), or connect the bottom hose (CVH), asapplicable.10 Using the specified antifreeze (see“Lubricants and fluids”), fill the system via theexpansion tank, until the coolant level reachesthe “maximum” mark. Allow time for air in thesystem to bubble through and add morecoolant if necessary. Repeat until the leveldoes not drop and refit the cap.11 Start the engine and run it to normaloperating temperature. Once it has cooled,check and carry out any final topping-up tothe expansion tank.

1•18 Every 36 000 miles or 3 years

36.6 The cylinder block drain plug(arrowed) - OHV

36.3b The radiator bottom hose clamp36.3a The radiator drain plug (arrowed)

Every 2 years (regardless of mileage)

2A

GeneralEngine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, overhead valve, water-cooled

1.0 litre 1.1 litreFiring order (No 1 at timing cover end) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-2-4-3 1-2-4-3Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.96 mm 73.96 mmStroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55.70 mm 64.98 mmCubic capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 957 cc 1117 ccCompression ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.5 : 1 9.5 : 1Compression pressure at starter speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5 to 11.5 kgf/cm2 13.3 to 15.3 kgf/cm2

Idle speed (rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 to 850 750 to 850Maximum continuous engine speed (rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5950 5450Engine output (DIN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 kW at 5750 rpm 37 kW at 5000 rpmEngine torque (DIN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.9 kgf m at 3700 rpm 8.4 kgf m at 2700 rpm

Cylinder blockNumber of main bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Cylinder bore diameter:

Standard (1) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.940 to 73.950 mmStandard (2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.950 to 73.960 mmStandard (3) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.960 to 73.970 mm Standard (4) and service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.970 to 73.980 mm

Oversizes:0.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.500 to 74.510 mm1.0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.000 to 75.010 mm

Main bearing bore:Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60.623 to 60.636 mmOversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61.003 to 61.016 mm

Camshaft bearing bore:Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.888 to 42.918 mmOversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43.396 to 43.420 mm

Central main bearing width (less thrustwashers) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22.04 to 22.10 mm

CrankshaftEndfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.072 to 0.285 mmMain journal diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.990 to 57.000 mmYellow dot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.980 to 56.990 mm0.254 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.726 to 56.746 mm0.508 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.472 to 56.492 mm0.762 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.218 to 56.238 mm

Chapter 2 Part A:OHV engine repair procedures

Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4Cylinder head and pistons - decarbonising . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15Engine - dismantling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13Engine - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14Engine - reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16Engine/transmission mountings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .11Engine/transmission - reconnection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17Engine/transmission - removal and separation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1Oil filter and pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10Operations only possible with engine removed from vehicle . . . . . . . .3Operations possible without removing engine from vehicle . . . . . . . . .2Pistons/connecting rods - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9Rocker gear - dismantling and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6Valve clearances - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

2A•1

Specifications

Contents







54321

Crankshaft (continued)Main bearing shell width . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21.2 to 21.6 mmMain bearing shell play . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.009 to 0.046 mmCrankpin (big-end) diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.99 to 43.01 mm0.254 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.74 to 42.76 mm 0.508 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.49 to 42.51 mm0.762 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.24 to 42.26 mm

Thrustwasher thicknesses:Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.80 to 2.85 mmOversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.99 to 3.04 mm

CamshaftNumber of bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Camshaft bearing diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39.615 to 39.635 mmBearing bush inside diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39.662 to 39.682 mmCamshaft thrust plate thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.457 to 4.508 mmCamshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.062 to 0.193 mmCam lift:

Inlet valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.300 mmExhaust valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.300 mm

Cam length (heel to toe):Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.288 to 32.516 mmExhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.615 to 32.846 mm

PistonsDiameter:

Standard (1) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.910 to 73.920 mmStandard (2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.920 to 73.930 mmStandard (3) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.930 to 73.940 mmStandard (4) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.940 to 73.950 mmStandard service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.930 to 73.955 mm0.5 oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.460 to 74.485 mm1.0 oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.960 to 74.985 mm

Piston-to-bore clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.015 to 0.050 mmPiston ring gap (fitted):

Top and 2nd rings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 0.45 mmBottom ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 to 0.40 mm

Bottom (oil control) ring gap position . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . In line with gudgeon pin2nd ring gap position . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90° to oil control ring gapTop ring gap position . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180° to oil control ring gap

Gudgeon pinsPin length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54.6 to 55.4 mmPin diameters:

White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.622 to 20.625 mmRed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.625 to 20.628 mmBlue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.628 to 20.631 mmYellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.631 to 20.634 mm

Connecting rod interference at 21°C (70°F) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.013 to 0.045 mmPin-to-piston interference at 21°C (70°F) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.005 to 0.011 mm

Connecting rodsBig-end bore diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46.685 to 46.705 mmSmall-end bore diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.589 to 20.609 mmBearing shell inside diameter (fitted):

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43.016 to 43.050 mm0.254 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.768 to 42.802 mm0.508 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.518 to 42.552 mm0.762 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.268 to 42.302 mm1.016 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.018 to 42.052 mm

Journal-to-bearing shell clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.006 to 0.060 mm

Cylinder headValve seat angle (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45°Valve seat width (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.20 to 1.75 mmLower correction angle (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30°Upper correction angle (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80°Upper correction angle - service cutter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75°Valve stem bore (inlet and exhaust):

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.907 to 7.938 mm0.381 oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.288 to 8.319 mm

2A•2 OHV engine repair procedures

ValvesClearances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Servicing Specifications in Chapter 1Tappet diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.081 to 13.094 mmTappet clearance in cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.25 to 20.75 mmValve spring free length (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 mmValve lift (excluding clearance) (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.367 mmValve head diameter:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.89 to 33.15 mmExhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29.01 to 29.27 mm

Valve stem diameter:Inlet valves:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.868 to 7.886 mm0.076 oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.944 to 7.962 mm0.381 oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.249 to 8.267 mm

Exhaust valves:Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.846 to 7.864 mm0.076 oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.922 to 7.940 mm0.381 oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.227 to 8.245 mm

Valve stem-to-guide clearance:Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.021 to 0.070 mmExhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.043 to 0.092 mm

Valve timing:Inlet valve opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14° BTDCInlet valve closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46° ABDCExhaust valve opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65° BBDCExhaust valve closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11° ATDC

Lubrication systemMinimum oil pressure at 80°C (175°F) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.6 kgf/cm2 at 750 rpmWarning light operates at . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.32 to 0.53 kgf/cm2

Relief valve opening pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.41 to 2.75 kgf/cm2

Oil pump clearances:Outer rotor-to-housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.14 to 0.26 mmInner-to-outer rotor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.051 to 0.127 mmRotors-to-cover endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.025 to 0.06 mm

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftMain bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 70Connecting rod (big-end) bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 23Rear oil seal retainer bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 50Chain tensioner bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6Camshaft thrust plate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3Camshaft sprocket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14Timing cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Coolant pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Crankshaft pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 40Coolant pump pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Starter motor bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 30Fuel pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13Oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14Sump drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Sump fixing bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 8Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 8

Oil pressure sender . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11Coolant temperature sender . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11Rocker shaft pedestal bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 31Cylinder head bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 35Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 65Stage 4 (after 15 minutes delay) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 80

Rocker cover screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3Exhaust manifold nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 12Inlet manifold nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14Carburettor flange nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14Thermostat housing cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14Engine-to-transmission bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 30Transmission oil filler plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

OHV engine repair procedures 2A•3

2A

1 General information

The engine is of an overhead valve typebased upon the “Kent” design used in manyearlier Ford models. It is mounted transverselyat the front of the vehicle together with thetransmission to form a combined power train.

The engine is a water-cooled, four-cylinderin-line type, having overhead valves operatedby tappets, pushrods and rocker arms. Thecamshaft is located within the cylinder blockand chain-driven from the crankshaft. A gearon the camshaft drives the oil pump and thedistributor, whilst a cam operates the fuelpump lever.

The cylinder head is of crossflow type,having the exhaust manifold mounted on theopposite side to the inlet manifold. Thecrankshaft runs in three main bearings, withendfloat controlled by semi-circularthrustwashers located on either side of thecentre main bearing.

The oil pump is mounted externally on thecylinder block just below the distributor, andthe full-flow type oil filter is screwed directlyinto the oil pump.

2 Operations possible withoutremoving engine fromvehicle

1 The following work can be carried outwithout having to remove the engine:a) Cylinder head - removal and refitting b) Valve clearances - adjustmentc) Sump - removal and refittingd) Rocker gear - overhaule) Crankshaft front oil seal - renewalf) Pistons/connecting rods - removal and

refittingg) Engine mountings - renewalh) Oil filter - removal and refittingi) Oil pump - removal and refitting

3 Operations only possiblewith engine removed fromvehicle

1 The following work should be carried outonly after the engine has been removed fromthe vehicle.a) *Crankshaft main bearings - renewalb) Crankshaft - removal and refittingc) **Flywheel - removal and refittingd) **Crankshaft rear oil seal - renewale) Camshaft - removal and refittingf) Timing gears and chain - removal and

refitting2 Although it is possible to undertake the jobmarked * without removing the engine, andthose marked ** by removing thetransmission, such work is not recommendedand is unlikely to save much time over thatrequired to withdraw the complete engine/transmission.

4 Cylinder head - removal andrefitting 3

Removal1 If the engine is in the vehicle, carry out thepreliminary operations described inparagraphs 2 to 15.2 Open the bonnet and fit protective coversto the front wing upper surfaces.3 Disconnect the battery earth strap. It is aswell to remove the battery, so that no metalobjects are placed across its terminals.4 Remove the air cleaner unit.5 Drain the cooling system. Note that thecoolant should have an antifreeze solution mixand can be used again, so drain into asuitable container for re-use.6 Disconnect the hoses from the thermostathousing. 7 Detach the choke cable.8 Release the throttle cable from thecarburettor operating lever by moving thespring clip and removing the bracket fixingbolt (see illustration).9 Disconnect the fuel and vacuum pipes fromthe carburettor. 10 Disconnect the breather hose from theinlet manifold.11 On vehicles with servo-assisted brakes,disconnect the vacuum hose from the inletmanifold.12 Disconnect the HT leads from the sparkplugs.13 Disconnect the electrical leads from thetemperature sender unit, inlet manifold,carburettor and radiator fan thermal switch.14 Unbolt and remove the heated air boxfrom the exhaust manifold (where fitted) (seeillustration).15 Disconnect the exhaust downpipe fromthe manifold by unbolting the connectingflanges. Support the exhaust system at thefront end. 16 Pull free and remove the oil filler cap withbreather hoses.17 Extract the four screws and remove therocker cover.18 Unscrew and remove the four fixing boltsand lift away the rocker shaft assembly fromthe cylinder head.

19 Withdraw the pushrods, keeping them intheir originally fitted sequence. A simple wayto do this is to punch holes in a piece of cardand number them 1 to 8 from the thermostathousing end of the cylinder head (seeillustration).20 Remove the spark plugs.21 Unscrew the cylinder head boltsprogressively in the reverse order to that givenfor tightening. Remove the cylinder head.

RefittingCaution: Never use jointing compoundwhen refitting the cylinder head andgasket.22 Before refitting the cylinder head, removeevery particle of carbon, old gasket and dirtfrom the mating surfaces of the cylinder headand block. Do not let the removed materialdrop into the cylinder bores or waterways: if itdoes, remove it. Normally, when a cylinderhead is removed, the head is decarbonisedand the valves ground in to remove all tracesof carbon. 23 Clean the threads of the cylinder headbolts and mop out oil from the bolt holes inthe cylinder block. In extreme cases, screwinga bolt into an oil-filled hole can cause theblock to fracture due to hydraulic pressure.


4.14 Heated air box on exhaust manifold

4.8 Disconnect the throttle cable andbracket

4.19 Withdraw the pushrods

Tap a stuck cylinder headfree with a wooden mallet.Do not insert a lever into thehead joint as this may

damage the mating faces.

24 If there is any doubt about the condition ofthe inlet or exhaust gaskets, unbolt themanifolds and fit new ones to perfectly cleanmating surfaces.25 Locate a new cylinder head gasket on thecylinder block, making quite sure that the boltholes, coolant passages and lubrication holesare correctly aligned.26 Lower the cylinder head carefully intoposition on the block.27 Screw in all the bolts finger tight and thentighten them in four stages, in the sequenceshown (see illustration) to the specified torque.28 Refit the pushrods in their original order.29 Lower the rocker shaft assembly intoposition, making sure that the rockeradjusting screws engage in the sockets at theends of the pushrods (see illustration).30 Screw in the rocker pedestal bolts fingertight. At this stage, some of the rocker armswill be applying pressure to the ends of thevalve stems and some of the rocker pedestalswill not be in contact with the cylinder head.The pedestals will be pulled down, however,when the bolts are tightened to the specifiedtorque, which should now be done. 31 Adjust the valve clearances.32 Refit the rocker cover. If the gasket is inanything but perfect condition, renew it.33 Fit the oil filler cap and breather hose andthe spark plugs. Tighten these to the specified

torque. They are of tapered seat type, nosealing washers being used.34 Connect the exhaust downpipe and fit theheated air box. 35 Reconnect all electrical leads, vacuumand coolant hoses. 36 Reconnect the cables. Refit the battery (ifremoved) and reconnect the battery terminals.37 Fit the air cleaner.38 Refill the cooling system.

5 Valve clearances -adjustment 2

Refer to Chapter 1, Section 18.

6 Sump - removal and refitting 2Removal1 Disconnect the battery earth lead and drainthe engine oil.2 Unbolt and withdraw the starter motor.Support the motor to avoid straining theelectrical wiring.3 Unbolt and remove the clutch cover plate.

4 Extract the sump securing bolts andremove the sump. If it is stuck, prise it gentlywith a screwdriver, but do not use excessiveleverage. If it is very tight, cut round thegasket joint using a sharp knife.

Refitting5 Before refitting the sump, remove the frontand rear sealing strips and gaskets. Clean themating surfaces of the sump and cylinderblock. 6 Stick new gaskets into position on theblock using thick grease to retain them, theninstall new sealing strips into their grooves sothat they overlap the gaskets (seeillustration).7 Before offering up the sump, check that thegap between the sump and oil baffle isbetween 2.0 and 3.8 mm (see illustration).8 Screw in the sump bolts and tighten inthree stages to the specified torque (seeillustration):

Stage 1 - in alphabetical order Stage 2 - in numerical order Stage 3 - in alphabetical order

9 It is important to follow this procedure inorder to provide sealing against oil leakage.10 Refit the clutch cover plate and the startermotor and reconnect the battery.11 Refill the engine with the correct gradeand quantity of oil.


6.8 Sump retaining bolt tighteningsequence - arrow indicates front of engine

6.7 Sump-to-baffle plate must be as shownA Sump B Baffle

6.6 Sump gaskets and sealing stripsA Timing cover end B Flywheel end

4.29 Refit the rocker shaft assembly - engaging the adjuster ballsinto the pushrod caps (sockets)

4.27 Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence

2A

7 Rocker gear - dismantlingand reassembly 2

1 With the rocker assembly removed, extractthe split pin from one end of the rocker shaft.2 Take off the spring and plain washers fromthe end of the shaft. 3 Slide off the rocker arms, support pedestalsand coil springs, keeping them in theiroriginally fitted order (see illustration). Cleanout the oil holes in the shaft.4 Apply engine oil to the rocker shaft beforereassembling and make sure that the flat onthe end of the shaft is to the same side as therocker arm adjuster screws (see illustration).This is essential for proper lubrication of thecomponents.5 If a new rocker shaft is being fitted, checkthat the end plug is located correctly (seeillustration).

8 Crankshaft front oil seal -renewal 3

1 Disconnect the battery earth cable.2 Slacken the alternator mounting andadjuster bolts and after pushing the alternatorin towards the engine, slip off the drivebelt.3 Unscrew and remove the crankshaft pulleybolt. To prevent the crankshaft turning whilethe bolt is being released, jam the teeth of thestarter ring gear on the flywheel afterremoving the clutch cover plate or startermotor for access.

4 Remove the crankshaft pulley. This shouldcome out using the hands but, if it is tight,prise it carefully with two levers placed atopposite sides under the pulley flange.5 Using a suitable claw tool, prise out thedefective seal and wipe out the seat (seeillustration).6 Install the new seal using a suitabledistance piece, the pulley and its bolt to drawit into position. If it is tapped into position, theseal may be distorted or the timing coverfractured.7 When the seal is fully seated, remove thepulley and bolt, apply grease to the sealrubbing surface of the pulley, install it andtighten the securing bolt to the specifiedtorque.8 Refit the clutch cover or starter motor.9 Fit and tension the drivebelt and reconnectthe battery.

9 Pistons/connecting rods -removal and refitting 3

Removal1 Remove the cylinder head and the sump.Do not remove the oil pick-up filter or pipe,which is an interference fit.2 Note the location numbers stamped on theconnecting rod big-ends and caps, and towhich side they face (see illustration). No 1assembly is nearest the timing cover and theassembly numbers are towards the camshaftside of the engine.

3 Turn the crankshaft by means of the pulleybolt until the big-end cap bolts for No 1connecting rod are in their most accessibleposition. Unscrew and remove the bolts andthe big-end cap complete with bearing shell. Ifthe cap is difficult to remove, tap it off with aplastic-faced hammer.4 If the bearing shells are to be used again,keep the shell taped to its cap.5 Feel the top of the cylinder bore for a wearridge. If one is detected, it should be scrapedoff before the piston/rod is pushed out of thetop of the cylinder block. Take care when doingthis not to score the cylinder bore surfaces.6 Push the piston/connecting rod out of theblock, retaining the bearing shell with the rodif it is to be used again.7 Repeat the operations on the remainingpiston/rod assemblies.

Refitting8 To install a piston/rod assembly, have thepiston ring gaps staggered as shown (seeillustration). Oil the rings and fit a piston ringcompressor.


7.3 Rocker components

7.5 Rocker shaft front end plug (A), flat (B)and oil hole (C)

9.8 Piston ring end gap positioningdiagram

9.2 Connecting rod big-end numbers8.5 Prising out the crankshaft front oil seal

7.4 Flat on rocker shaft (arrowed) andretaining pin

9 Oil the cylinder bores.10 Wipe out the bearing shell seat in theconnecting rod and insert the shell.11 Lower the piston/rod assembly into thecylinder bore until the base of the piston ringcompressor stands squarely on the top of theblock (see illustration). 12 Check that the directional arrow on thepiston crown faces towards the timing coverend of the engine and then apply the woodenhandle of a hammer to the piston crown.Strike the head of the hammer sharply to drivethe piston into the cylinder bore.13 Oil the crankpin and draw the connectingrod down to engage with the crankshaft.Check that the bearing shell is still in positionin the connecting rod.14 Wipe the bearing shell seat in the big-endcap clean and insert the bearing shell.15 Fit the cap, screw in the bolts and tightento the specified torque. 16 Repeat the operations on the remainingpistons/connecting rods. 17 Refit the sump and the cylinder head.Refill with oil and coolant.

10 Oil filter and pump - removaland refitting 2

Removal1 The oil pump is externally mounted on therearward facing side of the crankcase (seeillustration).

2 Using a suitable removal tool (strap wrenchor similar), unscrew and remove the oil filtercartridge and discard it.3 Unscrew the three mounting bolts andwithdraw the oil pump from the engine (seeillustration).4 Clean away the old gasket.

Refitting5 If a new pump is being fitted, it should beprimed with engine oil before installation. Dothis by turning its shaft while filling it withclean engine oil.6 Locate a new gasket on the pumpmounting flange, insert the pump shaft andbolt the pump into position.7 Oil the rubber sealing ring of a new filterand screw it into position on the pump, usinghand pressure only, not the removal tool. 8 Top-up the engine oil to replenish any lostduring the operations.

11 Engine/transmissionmountings - removal andrefitting

31 The engine mountings can be removed ifthe weight of the engine/transmission is firsttaken by one of the three following methods:a) Support the engine under the sump

using a jack and a block of wood.b) Attach a hoist to the engine lifting lugs. c) Make up a bar with end pieces which will

engage in the water channels at the sides ofthe bonnet lid aperture. Using an adjustablehook and chain connected to the enginelifting lugs, the weight of the engine can betaken off the mountings (see illustration).

Right-hand engine mounting2 Unscrew and remove the mounting sidebolt from under the right-hand wheel arch,just to the rear of and above the brake hosebracket (see illustration).3 Unscrew and remove the mountingretaining nut and washer from the suspensionstrut cup retaining plate.4 Undo the three bolts securing the mountingunit to the cylinder block (working fromunderneath). The mounting unit and bracketcan then be lowered from the engine.5 Unbolt and remove the mounting from itssupport bracket.

Engine bearer and mountings 6 Unscrew and remove the two nuts securingeach mounting (front and rear) to the enginebearer. 7 Support the engine bearer, then undo andremove the four retaining bolts from thefloorpan, two at the front and two at the rear(see illustration). 8 Unscrew the retaining nut to disconnect therubber mounting from the transmissionsupport.

All mountings9 Refitting of all mountings is a reversal ofremoval. Make sure that the original sequenceof assembly of washers and plates ismaintained. 10 Do not fully tighten all mounting bolts untilthey are all located. As the mounting bolts andnuts are tightened, check that the mountingrubbers do not twist.


10.3 Removing the oil pump

11.7 Engine bearer (rear end) showingmounting retaining nut (A) and retaining

bolts to floor (B)11.2 Right-hand engine mounting side

retaining bolt11.1 Typical engine support bar

10.1 Oil filter and pump unit

9.11 Installing a piston/connecting rod

2A

12 Engine/transmission -removal and separation 4

Caution: After removing the engine, keep itupright until the sump has been removedto prevent sludge from entering the engineinternals.

Removal1 This procedure entails lowering the engineand gearbox, and removing the unit frombeneath the car. For this reason, certain itemsof equipment are necessary. A suitable enginehoist should be employed to lower the engine.A more difficult alternative would be to use agood trolley jack. Secondly, if an inspectionpit is not available, four strong axle jackscapable of supporting the weight of the car,must be used. In addition, a willing friend willmake the procedure easier. 2 Select 4th gear, or reverse gear on 5-speedmodels, to make gearshift adjustment easieron reassembly.3 Open and remove the bonnet. 4 Disconnect the battery leads.5 Drain the engine coolant.6 Remove the radiator and thermo-electricfan unit.7 To drain any remaining coolant within theengine, undo and remove the cylinder blockdrain plug from the left-hand side at the front(exhaust manifold face) and drain theremaining coolant into a suitable container.8 Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hosesand remove the air cleaner unit.

9 Unclip and disconnect the heater hosesfrom the inlet manifold connection and thelateral coolant pipe.10 Refer to Section 4 and proceed asdescribed in paragraphs 7 to 15 inclusive.11 Disconnect the wiring connections fromthe alternator, the carburettor, the inletmanifold, the oil pressure switch, thereversing light switch and the engine oildipstick (if applicable). Undo the securing boltand disconnect the engine earth strap.12 Disconnect the speedometer drive cableat the gearbox end.13 Disconnect the clutch cable from therelease lever and gearbox support.14 Raise and support the vehicle on safetystands at the front and rear, ensuring that,when raised, the vehicle is level and there issufficient clearance to lower and remove theengine and transmission from underneath.15 Disconnect the starter motor leads.16 Disconnect the gearchange rod from thegearbox selector shaft. Do this by releasingthe clamp bolt and withdrawing the rod (seeillustration). Tie the rod to the stabilizer andthen unhook the tension spring.17 Unscrew the single bolt and disconnectthe stabilizer from the gearbox. Note thewasher which is located between thestabilizer trunnion and the gearbox casing(see illustration). 18 Drain the gearbox. As no drain plug isfitted, this is carried out by unscrewing thecap nut on the selector shaft lockingassembly. Take care not to lose the lockingpin and spring.

19 Undo and remove the four nuts retainingthe gearshift housing unit to the floor (seeillustration). Rotate the shift rod and stabilizer180° and support them by tying them up witha length of cord or wire.20 Unscrew and remove the pivot bolt andnut from the inboard end of the left side frontsuspension lower arm (see illustration), thenremove the bolt which secures the balljoint atthe outboard end of the lower arm to the stubaxle carrier. An Allen key can be used toprevent the bolt turning while the nut isunscrewed.21 The left-hand driveshaft must now bereleased from the transmission. Do this byinserting a lever between the inboard constantvelocity (CV) joint and the transmission (seeillustration). With an assistant pulling theroadwheel outwards, strike the lever hard withthe hand. Note that a quantity of oil will bereleased when the driveshaft is removed sohave a container ready.22 Tie the driveshaft up to the steering rackhousing to prevent strain to the CV joints.23 Restrain the differential pinion cage toprevent the cage from turning, using a plasticplug or similar. Failure to do this may makereconnection of the driveshafts difficult.24 Remove the three retaining bolts anddetach the tie-bar on the right-hand side,complete with mounting bracket, from thecrossmember (see illustration).25 Release the inboard and outboard ends ofthe front suspension lower arm on the right-hand side of the vehicle, as described for theleft-hand side.


12.16 Gearchange rod clamp bolt(arrowed)

12.19 Gearshift housing unit-to-floor nuts(arrowed)

12.24 Tie-bar mounting bolts (arrowed).Note that XR2 variant differs

12.21 Driveshaft removal from gearbox12.20 Front suspension lower arm pivotbolt and nut locations

12.17 Gearchange stabilizer rodconnection - arrow indicates washer

location

26 Disconnect the right-hand driveshaft, aspreviously described for the left-hand one.27 Connect a suitable hoist to the engine,preferably using a spreader bar andconnecting lifting hooks to the engine: liftinglugs provided.28 With the weight of the engine andtransmission just supported, disconnect theengine and transmission mountings at thepoints shown (see illustrations).29 Unbolt the engine mounting (completewith coolant hose support bracket, whereapplicable) from the side-member and fromthe wing apron panel.30 Carefully lower the engine/transmissionand withdraw it from under the car. To easethe withdrawal operation, lower theengine/transmission onto a crawler board or asheet of substantial plywood placed on rollersor lengths of pipe.

Separation31 Unscrew and remove the starter motorbolts and remove the starter.32 Unbolt and remove the clutch cover platefrom the lower part of the clutch bellhousing.33 Unscrew and remove the bolts from theclutch bellhousing-to-engine mating flange.34 Withdraw the transmission from theengine. Support its weight so that the clutchassembly is not distorted while the input shaftis still in engagement with the splined hub ofthe clutch driven plate.

13 Engine - dismantling 4

1 The need for dismantling will have beendictated by wear or noise in most cases.Although there is no reason why only partialdismantling cannot be carried out to renewsuch items as the timing chain or crankshaft

rear oil seal, when the main bearings or big-end bearings have been knocking, andespecially if the vehicle has covered a highmileage, then it is recommended that acomplete strip down is carried out and everyengine component examined.2 Position the engine so that it is upright on abench or other convenient working surface. Ifthe exterior is very dirty it should be cleanedbefore dismantling using paraffin and a stiffbrush or a water-soluble solvent.3 Remove the coolant pipe from the side ofthe engine by disconnecting the hose clipsand the securing bolt (see illustration). 4 If not already done, drain the engine oil. 5 Remove the dipstick and unscrew anddiscard the oil filter. 6 Disconnect the HT leads from the sparkplugs, release the distributor cap and lift itaway complete with leads.7 Unscrew and remove the spark plugs.8 Disconnect the breather hose from the inletmanifold and remove it complete with the oilfiller cap.9 Disconnect the fuel and vacuum pipes fromthe carburettor and unbolt and remove thecarburettor.10 Unbolt the thermostat housing cover andremove it, together with the thermostat.11 Remove the rocker cover.12 Remove the rocker shaft assembly (fourbolts).13 Withdraw the pushrods, keeping them intheir originally fitted order.14 Remove the cylinder head, complete withmanifolds.

15 Remove the bolt that holds the distributorclamp plate to the cylinder block andwithdraw the distributor.16 Unbolt and remove the fuel pump (seeillustration).17 Remove the oil pump.18 Pinch the two runs of the coolant pumpdrivebelt together at the pump pulley toprevent the pulley rotating and release thepulley bolts. 19 Release the alternator mounting andadjuster link bolts, push the alternator intowards the engine and remove the drivebelt(see illustration).20 Unbolt the alternator bracket and removethe alternator (see illustration). 21 Unbolt and remove the coolant pump(see illustration).


12.28c Engine bearer retaining bolts -front

13.16 Unbolt and remove the fuel pump13.3 Engine lateral coolant pipeconnections (arrowed)

12.28d Engine bearer retaining bolts - rear

12.28b Engine mounting nut on right-handsuspension strut retaining plate (arrowed)

12.28a Engine mounting bolt under right-hand wheel arch

2A

It is best to support anengine on a dismantlingstand or strong bench at acomfortable working height

before commencing work.

22 Unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt. To dothis, the flywheel starter ring gear will have tobe jammed to prevent the crankshaft fromturning (see illustration).23 Remove the crankshaft pulley. If this doesnot pull off by hand, carefully use two levers

behind it placed at opposite points.24 Place the engine on its side and remove thesump. Do not invert the engine at this stage, orsludge and swarf may enter the oilways. 25 Unbolt and remove the timing chain cover(see illustration).

26 Take off the oil slinger from the front faceof the crankshaft sprocket (see illustration).27 Slide the chain tensioner arm from itspivot pin on the front main bearing cap (seeillustration).28 Unbolt and remove the chain tensioner.29 Bend back the lockplate tabs from thecamshaft sprocket bolts and unscrew andremove the bolts (see illustration).30 Withdraw the sprocket complete withtiming chain. 31 Unbolt and remove the camshaft thrustplate (see illustration).32 Rotate the camshaft until each camfollower (tappet) has been pushed fully into itshole by its cam lobe.33 Withdraw the camshaft, taking care not todamage the camshaft bearings (see illustration).34 Withdraw each of the cam followers,keeping them in their originally fittedsequence by marking them with a piece ofnumbered tape or using a box with divisions(see illustration).


13.19 Alternator retaining and drivebeltadjustment bolts

13.21 Unbolt and remove the coolant pump

13.34 Lift out the cam followers (tappets),using a valve grinding tool

13.31 Unbolting the camshaft thrust plate

13.26 Removing the crankshaft oil slinger 13.27 Sliding off the chain tensioner arm 13.29 Bending back the camshaftsprocket bolt locktabs

13.33 Withdrawing the camshaft

13.25 Remove the timing chain cover13.22 Unscrew the crankshaft pulleyretaining bolt

13.20 Alternator mounting bracket

35 From the front end of the crankshaft, drawoff the sprocket using a two-legged extractor.36 Check that the main bearing caps aremarked F (Front), C (Centre) and R (Rear). Thecaps are also marked with an arrow whichindicates the timing cover end of the engine, apoint to remember when refitting the caps.37 Check that the big-end caps andconnecting rods have adjacent matchingnumbers facing towards the camshaft side ofthe engine. Number 1 assembly is nearest thetiming chain end of the engine. If anymarkings are missing or indistinct, makesome of your own with quick-drying paint(see illustration).38 Unbolt and remove the big-end bearingcaps. If the bearing shell is to be used again,tape the shell to the cap.39 Now check the top of the cylinder bore fora wear ridge. If one can be felt, it should beremoved with a scraper before the piston/rodis pushed out of the cylinder.40 Remove the piston/rod by pushing it outof the top of the block. Tape the bearing shellto the connecting rod.41 Remove the remaining three piston/rodassemblies in a similar way.42 Unbolt the clutch pressure plate coverfrom the flywheel. Unscrew the bolts evenlyand progressively until spring pressure isrelieved, before removing the bolts. Beprepared to catch the clutch driven plate asthe cover is withdrawn.43 Unbolt and remove the flywheel. It isheavy, do not drop it. If necessary, the starterring gear can be jammed to prevent theflywheel rotating. There is no need to mark thefitted position of the flywheel to its mountingflange as it can only be fitted one way. Takeoff the adapter plate (engine backplate).44 Unbolt and remove the crankshaft rear oilseal retainer (see illustration).45 Unbolt the main bearing caps. Removethe caps, tapping them off if necessary with aplastic-faced hammer. Retain the bearingshells with their respective caps if the shellsare to be used again, although unless theengine is of low mileage this is notrecommended.46 Lift the crankshaft from the crankcase andlift out the upper bearing shells, noting thethrustwashers either side of the centre

bearing. Keep these shells with theirrespective caps, identifying them for refittingto the crankcase if they are to be used again.47 With the engine now completelydismantled, each component should beexamined, as described in the followingSection before reassembling.

14 Engine - examination andrenovation 3

1 Clean all components using paraffin and astiff brush, except the crankshaft, whichshould be wiped clean and the oil passagescleaned out with a length of wire.2 Never assume that a component is unwornsimply because it looks all right. After all theeffort which has gone into dismantling theengine, refitting worn components will makethe overhaul a waste of time and money.Depending on the degree of wear, theoverhauler’s budget and the anticipated life ofthe vehicle, components which are onlyslightly worn may be refitted, but if in doubt itis always best to renew.

Crankshaft, main and big-endbearings3 The need to renew the main bearing shellsor to have the crankshaft reground will usuallyhave been determined during the last fewmiles of operation when perhaps a heavyknocking has developed from within thecrankcase or the oil pressure warning lamphas stayed on, denoting a low oil pressureprobably caused by excessive wear in thebearings.4 Even without these symptoms, the journalsand crankpins on a high mileage engineshould be checked for out-of-round (ovality)and taper. For this a micrometer will beneeded to check the diameter of the journalsand crankpins at several different pointsaround them. A motor factor or engineer cando this for you. If the readings show that eitherout-of-round or taper is present, then thecrankshaft should be reground by your dealeror engine reconditioning company to acceptthe undersize main and big-end shell bearingswhich are available. Normally, the companydoing the regrinding will supply the necessaryundersize shells.

5 If the crankshaft is in good condition, it iswise to renew the bearing shells as it is almostcertain that the original ones will have worn.This is often indicated by scoring of thebearing surface or by the top layer of thebearing metal having worn through to exposethe metal underneath.6 Each shell is marked on its back with thepart number. Undersize shells will have theundersize stamped additionally on theirbacks.7 Standard size crankshafts having mainbearing journal diameters at the lower end ofthe tolerance range are marked with a yellowspot on the front balance weight. You will findthat with this type of crankshaft, a standardshell is fitted to the seat in the crankcase but ayellow colour-coded shell to the main bearingcap.8 If a green spot is seen on the crankshaftthen this indicates that 0.254 mm undersizebig-end bearings are used in place of thestandard diameter.

Cylinder bores, pistons, ringsand connecting rods9 Cylinder bore wear will usually have beenevident from the smoke emitted from theexhaust during recent operation of the vehicleon the road, coupled with excessive oilconsumption and fouling of spark plugs.10 Engine life can be extended by fittingspecial oil control rings to the pistons. Theseare widely advertised and will give many morethousands of useful mileage without the needfor a rebore, although this will be inevitableeventually. If this remedy is decided upon,remove the piston/connecting rods and fit theproprietary rings in accordance with themanufacturer’s instructions.11 Where a more permanent solution isdecided upon, the cylinder block can berebored by your dealer or engineering works,or by one of the mobile workshops which nowundertake such work. The cylinder bore willbe measured both for out-of-round and fortaper to decide how much the bores shouldbe bored out. A set of matching pistons willbe supplied in a suitable oversize to suit thenew bores.12 Due to the need for special heating andinstalling equipment for removal and refittingof the interference type gudgeon pin, theremoval and refitting of pistons to theconnecting rods is definitely a specialist job,preferably for your Ford dealer.13 The removal and refitting of piston rings ishowever well within the scope of the homemechanic. Do this by sliding two or three oldfeeler blades round behind the topcompression ring so that they are atequidistant points. The ring can now be slidup the blades and removed. Repeat theremoval operations on the secondcompression ring and then the oil control ring.This method will not only prevent the ringsfrom dropping onto empty grooves as theyare withdrawn, but it will also avoid ringbreakage.


13.44 Crankshaft rear oil seal retainer13.37 Connecting rod and big-end capmarkings (arrowed)

2A

14 Even when new piston rings have beensupplied to match the pistons, always checkthat they are not tight in their grooves andalso check their end gaps by pushing themsquarely down their particular cylinder boreand measuring with a feeler blade (seeillustration). Adjustment of the end gap canbe made by careful grinding to bring it withinthe specified tolerance.15 If new rings are being fitted to an oldpiston, always remove any carbon from thegrooves beforehand. The best tool for this jobis the end of a broken piston ring. Take carenot to cut your fingers, piston rings are sharp.The cylinder bores should be roughened withfine glass paper to assist the bedding-in of thenew rings.

Timing sprockets and chain 16 The teeth on the timing sprockets rarelywear, but check for broken or hooked teetheven so. 17 The timing chain should always berenewed at time of major engine overhaul. Aworn chain is evident if, when supportedhorizontally at both ends, it takes on a deeplybowed appearance.18 Finally check the rubber cushion on thetensioner spring leaf. If grooved or chewedup, renew it.

Flywheel19 Inspect the starter ring gear on theflywheel for wear or broken teeth. If evident,the ring gear should be renewed in thefollowing way. Drill the ring gear with twoholes, approximately 7 or 8 mm diameter andoffset as shown (see illustration). Make surethat you do not drill too deeply or you willdamage the flywheel.20 Tap the ring gear downward off itsregister and remove it (see illustration).21 Place the flywheel in the householdrefrigerator for about an hour and then heatthe new ring gear to between 260 and 28°C in

a domestic oven. Do not heat it above 290°Cor its hardness will be lost.22 Slip the ring onto the flywheel and gentlytap it into position against its register. Allow itto cool without quenching.23 The clutch friction surface on the flywheelshould be checked for grooving or tiny haircracks, the latter being caused byoverheating. If these conditions are evident, itmay be possible to surface grind the flywheelprovided its balance is not upset. Otherwise, anew flywheel will have to be fitted - consultyour dealer about this.

Oil pump 24 The oil pump should be checked for wearby unbolting and removing the cover plateand checking the following tolerances (seeillustrations).a) Outer rotor-to-pump body gapb) Inner rotor-to-outer rotor gapc) Rotor endfloat (use a feeler blade and

straight-edge across pump body)Use feeler blades to check the tolerances andif they are outside the specified values, renewthe pump. 25 If the pump is serviceable, renew the O-ring and refit the cover (see illustration).


14.14 Checking a piston ring end gap 14.20 Removing the ring gear from theflywheel

14.24b Check the oil pump rotor-to-body clearance at (a) and theinner-to-outer rotor clearance at (b)

14.24a Oil pump components

A CoverB O-ringC Pump bodyD Threaded insert

E Filter (relief valve)F PlugG Relief valve

H Outer rotorJ Inner rotorK Drive pinion

14.19 Drilling the flywheel starter ring gear

14.25 Oil pump O-ring seal must berenewed (arrowed)

Oil seals and gasket26 Renew the oil seals on the timing coverand the crankshaft rear retainer as a matter ofroutine at time of major overhaul. Oil seals arecheap, oil is not! Use a piece of tubing as aremoval and installing tool. Apply somegrease to the oil seal lips and check that thesmall tensioner spring in the oil seal has notbeen displaced by the vibration caused duringfitting of the seal.27 Renew all the gaskets by purchasing theappropriate “de-coke”, short or full engineset. Oil seals may be included in the gasketsets.

Crankcase28 Clean out the oilways with a length of wireor by using compressed air. Similarly cleanthe coolant passages. This is best done byflushing through with a cold water hose.Examine the crankcase and block for strippedthreads in bolt holes; if evident, thread insertscan be fitted.29 Renew any core plugs which appear to beleaking or which are excessively rusty.30 Cracks in the casting may be rectified byspecialist welding, or by one of the cold metalkey interlocking processes available.

Camshaft and bearings31 Examine the camshaft gear and lobes fordamage or wear. If evident a new camshaftmust be purchased, or one which has beenbuilt-up such as are advertised by firmsspecialising in exchange components.32 The bearing internal diameters should bechecked against the Specifications if asuitable gauge is available: otherwise, checkfor movement between the camshaft journaland the bearing. Worn bearings should berenewed by your dealer.33 Check the camshaft endfloat bytemporarily refitting the camshaft and thethrust plate.

Cam followers34 It is seldom that the cam followers wear intheir bores, but it is likely that after a highmileage, the cam lobe contact surface willshow signs of a depression or grooving.35 Where this condition is evident, renew thecam followers. Grinding out the wear markswill only reduce the thickness of the hardenedmetal of the cam follower and acceleratefurther wear.

Cylinder head and rocker gear36 The usual reason for dismantling thecylinder head is to decarbonise and to grind inthe valves. Reference should therefore bemade to the next Section, in addition to thedismantling operations described here. Firstremove the manifolds.37 Using a standard valve springcompressor, compress the spring on No 1valve (valve nearest the timing cover). Do notovercompress the spring or the valve stemmay bend. If it is found that, when screwing

down the compressor tool, the spring retainerdoes not release from the collets, remove thecompressor and place a piece of tubing onthe retainer so that it does not impinge on thecollets and strike the end of the tubing a sharpblow with a hammer. Refit the compressorand compress the spring.38 Extract the split collets and then gentlyrelease the compressor and remove it.39 Remove the valve spring retainer, thespring and the oil seal.40 Withdraw the valve.41 Repeat the removal operations on theremaining seven valves. Keep the valves intheir originally fitted sequence by placingthem in 3 piece of card which has holespunched in it and numbered 1 to 8 (from thetiming cover end).42 Place each valve in turn in its guide sothat approximately one third of its lengthenters the guide. Rock the valve from side toside (see illustration). If there is any morethan an imperceptible movement, the guideswill have to be reamed (working from the valveseat end) and oversize stemmed valves fitted.If you do not have the necessary reamer (tool71-042 or 21-043), leave this work to yourFord dealer.43 Examine the valve seats. Normally, theseats do not deteriorate but the valve headsare more likely to burn away, in which casenew valves can be ground in. If the seatsrequire re-cutting, use a standard cutteravailable from most accessory or tool storesor consult your motor engineering works.44 Renewal of any valve seat which iscracked or beyond recutting is definitely a jobfor your dealer or motor engineering works.45 If the cylinder head mating surface issuspected of being distorted due to persistentleakage of coolant at the gasket joint, then itcan be checked and surface ground by yourdealer or motor engineering works. Distortionis unlikely under normal circumstances with acast iron head.46 Check the rocker shaft and rocker armspads which bear on the valve stem end facesfor wear or scoring, also for any broken coilsprings. Renew components as necessary. Ifthe valve springs have been in use for 50 000miles (80 000 km) or more, they should berenewed.

47 Reassemble the cylinder head by firstfitting new valve stem oil seals (seeillustration). Install No 1 valve (lubricated) intoits guide and fit the valve spring with thecloser coils to the cylinder head, followed bythe spring retainer. Compress the spring andengage the split collets in the cutout in thevalve stem. Hold them in position while thecompressor is gently released and removed.48 Repeat the operations on the remainingvalves, making sure that each valve isreturned to its original guide or if new valveshave been fitted, into the seat into which itwas ground.49 On completion, support the ends of thecylinder head on two wooden blocks andstrike the end of each valve stem with aplastic or copper-faced hammer; just a lightblow to settle the components.

15 Cylinder head and pistons -decarbonising 3

1 With the cylinder head removed, the carbondeposits should be removed from thecombustion spaces using a scraper and awire brush fitted into an electric drill. Takecare not to damage the valve heads,otherwise no special precautions need betaken as the cylinder head is of cast ironconstruction.2 Where a more thorough job is to be carriedout, the cylinder head should be dismantledso that the valves may be ground in and theports and combustion spaces cleaned,brushed and blown out after the manifoldshave been removed.3 Before grinding-in a valve remove thecarbon and deposits completely from its headand stem. With an inlet valve, this is usuallyquite easy, simply scraping off the soft carbonwith a blunt knife and finishing with a wirebrush. With an exhaust valve the deposits arevery much harder and those on the head mayneed a rub on coarse emery cloth to removethem. An old woodworking chisel is a usefultool to remove the worst of the head deposits.4 Make sure that the valve heads are reallyclean, otherwise the rubber suction cup of thegrinding tool will not stick during the grinding-in operations.


14.47 Valve stem oil sealsA Exhaust valve type B Inlet valve type

14.42 Checking valve in guide for wear

2A

5 Before starting to grind in a valve, supportthe cylinder head so that there is sufficientclearance under for the valve stem to projectfully without being obstructed.6 Take the first valve and apply a little coarsegrinding paste to the bevelled edge of thevalve head. Insert the valve into its guide andapply the suction grinding tool to its head(see illustration). Rotate the tool between thepalms of the hands in a back-and-forth rotarymovement until the gritty action of thegrinding-in process disappears. Repeat theoperation with the fine paste and then wipeaway all traces of grinding paste and examinethe seat and bevelled edge of the valve. Amatt silver mating band should be observedon both components, without any sign ofblack spots. If some spots do remain, repeatthe grinding-in process until they havedisappeared. A drop or two of paraffin appliedto the contact surfaces will increase thespeed of grinding-in, but do not allow anypaste to run down into the valve guide. Oncompletion, wipe away every trace of grindingpaste using a paraffin-moistened cloth.7 Repeat the operations on the remainingvalves, taking care not to mix up theiroriginally fitted sequence.8 Reassemble the valves to the cylinder head.9 An important part of the decarbonisingoperation is to remove the carbon depositsfrom the piston crowns. To do this, turn thecrankshaft so that two pistons are at the topof their stroke and press some greasebetween these pistons and the cylinder walls.This will prevent carbon particles falling downinto the piston ring grooves. Stuff rags into theother two bores.

10 Cover the oilways and coolant passageswith masking tape and then using a bluntscraper remove all the carbon from the pistoncrowns. Take care not to score the soft alloyof the crown or the surface of the cylinderbore.11 Rotate the crankshaft to bring the othertwo pistons to TDC and repeat the operations.12 Wipe away the circle of grease andcarbon from the cylinder bores. 13 Clean the top surface of the cylinder blockby careful scraping.

16 Engine - reassembly 31 With everything clean, commencereassembly by oiling the bores for the camfollowers and inserting them fully in theiroriginal sequence.2 Lubricate the camshaft bearings and insertthe camshaft from the timing cover end of theengine.3 Fit the thrust plate and tighten the fixingbolts to the specified torque. The endfloat willalready have been checked, as described inSection 14.4 Wipe clean the main bearing shell seats inthe crankcase and fit the shells, noting thatthe lower shells do not have the lubricationgroove. Using a little grease, stick the semi-circular thrustwashers on either side of thecentre bearing so that the oil grooves arevisible when the washers are installed (seeillustrations).

5 Check that the Woodruff key is in positionon the front end of the crankshaft and tap thecrankshaft sprocket into place using a pieceof tubing.6 Oil the bearing shells and lower thecrankshaft into the crankcase.7 Wipe the seats in the main bearing capsand fit the bearing shells into them. Install thecaps so that their markings are correctlypositioned (see illustration).8 Screw in the cap bolts and tighten evenly tothe specified torque.9 Now check the crankshaft endfloat. Ideally adial gauge should be used, but feeler blades arean alternative if inserted between the face of thethrustwasher and the machined surface of thecrankshaft balance weight after having prisedthe crankshaft first in one direction and then theother (see illustration). Provided thethrustwashers at the centre bearing have beenrenewed, the endfloat should be with thespecified tolerance. If it is not, oversizethrustwashers are available (see Specifications).10 Rotate the crankshaft so that the timingmark on its sprocket is directly in line with thecentre of the crankshaft sprocket mountingflange.11 Engage the camshaft sprocket within thetiming chain and then engage the chainaround the teeth of the crankshaft sprocket.Push the camshaft sprocket onto its mountingflange. The camshaft sprocket bolt holesshould now be in alignment with the tappedholes in the camshaft flange and bothsprocket timing marks in alignment (seeillustration). Turn the camshaft as necessary


15.6 Grinding-in a valve 16.4b Fit the upper main bearing shell(with lubrication groove) and thethrustwashers (centre bearing)

16.11 Crankshaft and camshaft sprockettiming marks (arrowed)

16.9 Checking the crankshaft endfloatusing the dial gauge method

16.7 Main bearing cap markings

16.4a Crankshaft endfloat halfthrustwashers

to achieve this, also withdraw the camshaftsprocket and reposition it within the loop ofthe chain. This is a “trial and error” operationwhich must be continued until exactalignment of bolt holes and timing marks isachieved.12 Screw in the sprocket bolts to thespecified torque and bend up the tabs of anew lockplate (see illustration).13 Bolt the timing chain tensioner intoposition, retract the tensioner cam spring andthen slide the tensioner arm onto its pivot pin.Release the cam tensioner so that it bearsupon the arm.14 Fit the oil slinger to the front of thecrankshaft sprocket so that its convex side isagainst the sprocket.15 Using a new gasket, fit the timing coverwhich will already have been fitted with a newoil seal. One fixing bolt should be left out atthis stage as it also holds the coolant pump(see illustration). Grease the oil seal lips andfit the crankshaft pulley. Tighten the pulleybolt to the specified torque.16 Using a new gasket, bolt the crankshaftrear oil seal retainer into position. Tighten thebolts to the specified torque (see illustration).17 Locate the engine adapter (back) plate onits dowels and then fit the flywheel (seeillustration).18 Screw in and tighten the flywheel bolts tothe specified torque. To prevent the flywheelturning, the starter ring gear can be jammedor a piece of wood placed between acrankshaft balance weight and the inside ofthe crankcase.19 Install and centralise the clutch.20 The pistons/connecting rods should nowbe installed. Check to ensure that with thepiston crown arrow pointing to the timingcover end of the engine, the oil hole in theconnecting rod is on the left as shown (seeillustration). Oil the cylinder bores.21 Install the pistons/connecting rods. 22 Fit the sump.23 Fit the oil pressure sender unit, ifremoved.24 Turn the crankshaft until No 1 piston is atTDC (crankshaft pulley and timing covermarks aligned) and fit the oil pump completewith new gasket and a new oil filter.25 Using a new gasket, fit the fuel pump. Ifthe insulating block became detached from

the crankcase during removal, make sure thata new gasket is fitted to each side of theblock.26 Fit the coolant pump using a new gasket.27 Fit the cylinder head.28 Refit the pushrods in their originalsequence, and the rocker shaft.29 Adjust the valve clearances and refit therocker cover using a new gasket.30 Fit the inlet and exhaust manifolds usingnew gaskets and tightening the nuts and boltsto the specified torque.31 Refit the carburettor using a new flangegasket and connect the fuel pipe from thepump.32 Screw in the spark plugs and the coolanttemperature switch (if removed).33 Refit the thermostat and the thermostathousing cover. 34 Fit the pulley to the coolant pump pulleyflange.35 Fit the alternator and the drivebelt andtension the belt.36 Refit the distributor.37 Refit the distributor cap and reconnect thespark plug HT leads.38 Bolt on and connect the coolant pipe tothe side of the cylinder block.39 Fit the breather pipe from the oil filler capto the inlet manifold and fit the cap.40 Check the sump drain plug for tightness.A new seal should be fitted at regular intervalsto prevent leakage. Refit the dipstick.41 Refilling with oil should be left until theengine is installed in the vehicle.

17 Engine/transmission -reconnection and refitting 4

1 This is a direct reversal of the removal andseparation from the transmission. Take carenot to damage the engine ancillarycomponents and body panels when raisingthe unit into position.

Reconnection2 Reconnection of the engine andtransmission is a reversal of separation but ifthe clutch has been dismantled, check thatthe driven plate has been centralised, and thatthe pressure plate bolts are tightened to thespecified torque (see Chapter 6).3 Locate the engine bearer and mountingsand tighten the attachment bolts and nuts.

Refitting4 First check that the engine sump drain plugis tight and that the gearbox cap nut (removedto drain the oil) is refitted, together with itslocking pin and spring.


16.16 Refit the crankshaft rear oil sealretainer - note new gasket

16.20 Piston-to-connecting rodrelationship. Lubrication hole and piston

crown mark (arrowed) must align asshown

16.17 Locate the engine backplate overthe two dowels (arrowed)

16.15 Bolt (arrowed) which secures timingcover and coolant pump

16.12 Secure the camshaft sprocketretaining bolts with the tab washer

2A

Warning: Before starting anewly installed engine, make afinal check to ensure that allengine components have been

reconnected and that no rags or toolshave been left in the engine bay.

5 Manoeuvre the engine/transmission underthe vehicle and attach the lifting hoist. Raisethe engine carefully until the engine mountingstud is engaged in the suspension strutretaining plate and the engine bearer is incontact with the floorpan. Align the enginebearer with the retaining bolt holes then fitand tighten the bolts. When tightening thebolts check that the mounting rubbers are notbeing twisted (see illustration).6 Refit the transmission bearer to the rubberinsulator, fit the right-hand mounting retainingnut and washer, the side-mounted bolt andwasher (under the wheel arch) and tighten.7 With the engine and transmission fullysecured, release the lifting hoist and removeit.8 If some sort of plug was used to prevent thedifferential pinion cage from turning, removethe plug now. If a plug was not used, insert afinger in the driveshaft hole and align the cageready to receive the driveshaft. If this is notdone, the driveshaft cannot engage with thesplined pinion gear. Use a new snap-ring andreconnect the right-hand driveshaft to thetransmission by having an assistant applypressure on the roadwheel. Check that thesnap-ring has locked in position.9 Relocate the right-hand tie-bar and bracketto the crossmember and refit the retainingbolts.10 Reconnect the right-hand lowersuspension arm. Tighten the bolts. 11 Refit the driveshaft and suspension lowerarm to the opposite side in a similar way tothat just described.12 Rotate the gearchange housing backthrough 180° then loosely attach it to the floorpanels with the retaining bolts.13 Reconnect the transmission stabilizer rod,making sure to insert the washer between therod and the transmission case (seeillustration).14 Check that the gearchange rod is still in4th (4-speed gearbox) or reverse (5-speedgearbox).15 Tighten the gearbox housing-to-floorattachment bolts.16 Check that the contact faces of thegearchange rod and selector shaft are free ofgrease then reconnect them and adjust asfollows, according to gearbox type:

Four-speed gearbox - pre 1987modelsa) Pull downwards on the gearchange rod

and slip it onto the selector shaft whichprojects from the transmission. The clampshould be loose on the gearchange rod(see illustration).

b) Using a 3.5 mm diameter rod or pin,insert it as shown and pull the gear leverdownwards to lock it in the selector slide.When inserting the rod, point up upwardto feel the cut-out in the gear lever beforeprising it downwards (see illustration).Now turn your attention to the gearbox.

c) Using a pin or rod, inserted into the holein the end of the projecting selector shaft,turn the shaft clockwise to its stop andretain it in this position with a strongrubber band. Now tighten the clamppinch-bolt (see illustration).

d) Remove the locking pins.

Four-speed gearbox - post February1987 modelsa) Set the gearchange lever inside the car to

2nd gear.b) Free the control rod (which runs from the

floor lever) from the selector rod at thetransmission, by unscrewing the clampbolt.

c) Make up a stepped rod similar to the oneshown (see illustration). This can beachieved by pushing a piece of weldingrod through a length of plastic tubing.

d) Insert the tool into the left-hand side ofthe mechanism housing under the car,and feel the point of the tool engage inthe hole in the lever arm. Fit the O-ring orheavy rubber band as shown (seeillustration).


17.5 Engine bearer and mountings 17.16a Sliding the clamp onto the gearboxselector shaft

17.16c Tightening the gearchange rodclamp bolt

17.16b Gear lever locked in selectorhousing by pin (arrowed)

17.13 Connect the gearbox stabilizer rod

17.16d Gearshift settingtool

A TubingB Welding rodC O-ring or rubber bandAll dimensions in mm

e) With 2nd gear correctly engaged,reconnect the control rod to the selectorrod by tightening the clamp bolt. Removethe stepped tool.

f) Select each gear in turn to confirm thatthe linkage has been correctly set.

Five-speed gearbox - pre 1987 modelsa) Use a lock tool similar to that shown, pull

the gear lever down in its selector gatereverse gear position and set the tool tohold it against the stop (see illustration).

b) Insert a suitable rod or drift into the holein the selector shaft, rotate the shaftclockwise until it is felt to be against thestop then push it into the gearbox andretain it in this position while tighteningthe gearchange rod clamp bolt. Removethe drift and lock tool (see illustration).

Five-speed gearbox - post February1987 modelsa) Set the gearchange lever inside the car to

4th gear.

b) Release the control rod (which runs fromthe floor lever) from the selector rod at thetransmission by unscrewing the clampbolt.

c) Insert a rod (3.5 mm diameter) into theleft-hand side of the mechanism housingunder the car (see illustration).

d) With the 4th gear correctly engaged,reconnect the control rod to the selectorrod by tightening the clamp bolt. Removethe temporary rod.

e) Select each gear in turn to confirm thatthe linkage has been correctly set.

17 Refit the clutch housing cover plate andsecure with retaining bolts.18 Refit the starter motor and reconnect itswiring.19 Reconnect the engine earth strapunderneath also the reversing light lead.20 Refit the exhaust system and bolt thedownpipe to the manifold. Refit the heated airbox which connects with the air cleaner.21 Reconnect the clutch operating cable.

22 Reconnect the electrical leads, the fuelpipe, the brake vacuum hose and thespeedometer cable.23 Reconnect the throttle cable and theheater hoses. 24 Reconnect the radiator coolant hoses.25 Fill up with engine oil, gearbox oil andcoolant, then reconnect the battery.26 Refit the bonnet, bolting the hinges totheir originally marked positions.27 Fit the air cleaner and reconnect thehoses and the air cleaner inlet spout.28 Once the engine is running, check thedwell angle, timing, idle speed and mixtureadjustment.29 If a number of new internal componentshave been installed, run the vehicle atrestricted speed for the first few hundredmiles to allow time for the new components tobed in. It is also recommended that with anew or rebuilt engine, the engine oil and filterare changed at the end of the running-inperiod.


17.16g Retain selector shaft whentightening clamp bolt

17.16h Setting tool in place - 5-speedgearbox

17.16f Hold gear lever in position with locktool

17.16e Setting tool in place - 4-speedgearbox

2A

2A•18 Notes

2B

1.3 and 1.6 litre engines

GeneralEngine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, overhead cam, water-cooled. Compound Valve

Hemispherical head (CVH)

1.3 litre 1.6 litreCode . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . JPC LUBFiring order (No 1 at timing cover end) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 1-3-4-2Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.96 mm 79.96 mmStroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64.52 mm 79.52 mmCubic capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1296 cc 1597 ccCompression ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5 : 1 9.5 : 1Compression pressure at starter speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11.2 to 14.8 kgf/cm2 11.2 to 14.8 kgf/cm2

Maximum continuous engine speed (rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6450 6300

Cylinder blockNumber of main bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Cylinder bore diameter:

Standard (1) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.94 to 79.95 mmStandard (2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.95 to 79.96 mmStandard (3) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.96 to 79.97 mmStandard (4) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.97 to 79.98 mmOversize (A) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.23 to 80.24 mmOversize (B) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.24 to 80.25 mmOversize (C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.25 to 80.26 mm

Main bearing shell inner diameter:Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58.011 to 58.038 mmUndersize 0.25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.761 to 57.788 mmUndersize 0.50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.511 to 57.538 mmUndersize 0.75 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.261 to 57.288 mm

CrankshaftMain bearing journal diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.98 to 58.00 mmUndersize 0.25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.73 to 57.75 mmUndersize 0.50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.48 to 57.50 mmUndersize 0.75 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.23 to 57.25 mm

Chapter 2 Part B:CVH engine repair procedures

Camshaft - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6Camshaft oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7Cylinder head and pistons - decarbonising . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16Engine - dismantling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14Engine - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15Engine - reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17Engine/transmission mountings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .11

Engine/transmission - reconnection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18Engine/transmission - removal and separation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1Oil filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12Operations only possible with engine removed from vehicle . . . . . . . .3Operations possible without removing engine from vehicle . . . . . . . . .2Pistons/connecting rods - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9Timing belt - inspection, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

2B•1

Specifications

Contents







54321

Crankshaft (continued)Main bearing running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.011 to 0.058 mmThrustwasher thickness:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.301 to 2.351 mmOversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.491 to 2.541 mm

Crankshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.09 to 0.30 mmCrankpin (big-end) diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.89 to 47.91 mmUndersize 0.25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.64 to 47.66 mmUndersize 0.50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.39 to 47.41 mmUndersize 0.75 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.14 to 47.16 mmUndersize 1.00 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46.89 to 46.91 mm

Big-end bearing running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.006 to 0.060 mm

CamshaftNumber of bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Belt tension:

Setting up (torque wrench on camshaft sprocket):1.3 litre (colour code blue) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.0 to 6.5 kgf m1.6 litre (colour code yellow) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.5 to 5.0 kgf m

Final setting (using Ford tool 21-113):Used belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 to 5 on scaleNew belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 to 11 on scale

Note: A used belt is one which has been in use for more than 30 minutes.Camshaft thrust plate thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.99 to 5.01 mmCam lift:

1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.79 mm1.6 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.09 mm

Cam length (heel to toe):Inlet:

1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38.305 mm1.6 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38.606 mm

Exhaust:1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37.289 mm1.6 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37.590 mm

Camshaft bearing diameter:1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44.75 mm2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.00 mm3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.25 mm4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.40 mm5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.75 mm

Camshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 to 0.15 mm

Pistons and piston ringsDiameter:

Standard 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.910 to 79.920 mmStandard 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.920 to 79.930 mmStandard 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.930 to 79.940 mmStandard 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.940 to 79.950 mm Standard service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.930 to 79.955 mmOversize 0.29 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.210 to 80.235 mmOversize 0.50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.430 to 80.455 mm

Piston-to-bore clearance:Production . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.040 mmService . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.010 to 0.045 mm

Ring gap positions (when fitted) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120° apartPiston ring gap:

Compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 to 0.50 mmOil control . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.4 to 1.4 mm

Gudgeon pinPin diameter:

White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.622 to 20.625 mmRed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.625 to 20.628 mmBlue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.628 to 20.631 mmYellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.631 to 20.634 mm

Play in piston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.005 to 0.011 mmInterference fit in connecting rod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.013 to 0.045 mm

2B•2 CVH engine repair procedures

Connecting rodBig-end bore diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50.890 to 50.910 mmSmall-end bore diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.589 to 20.609 mmBig-end bearing shell inside diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.916 to 47.950 mmUndersize 0.25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.666 to 47.700 mmUndersize 0.50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.416 to 47.450 mmUndersize 0.75 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.166 to 47.200 mmUndersize 1.00 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46.916 to 46.950 mm

Big-end bearing running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.006 to 0.060 mm

Cylinder headValve seat angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45°Valve seat width . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.75 to 2.32 mmMaximum cylinder head distortion permissible:

Over distance of 26 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.04 mmOver distance of 156 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.08 mmOver full length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 mmFacing head mating surface . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 mm

Minimum combustion chamber depth (after refacing) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19.60 mm

Valves - general 1.3 litre 1.6 litreInlet valve opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13° BTDC 8° BTDCInlet valve closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28° ABDC 36° ABDCExhaust valve opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30° BBDC 34° BBDCExhaust valve closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15° ATDC 6° ATDCValve lift:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.56 mm 10.09 mmExhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.52 mm 10.06 mm

Valve spring free length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.2 mm 47.2 mm

Inlet valveLength . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134.54 to 135.00 mmHead diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.9 to 42.1 mmStem diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.025 to 8.043 mmOversize 0.2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.225 to 8.243 mmOversize 0.4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.425 to 8.443 mm

Valve stem-to-guide clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.063 mm

Exhaust valveLength:

1.3 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131.17 to 131.63 mm1.6 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131.57 to 132.03 mm

Head diameter:1.3 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33.9 to 34.1 mm1.6 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36.9 to 37.1 mm

Valve stem diameter:Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.999 to 8.017 mmOversize 0.2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.199 to 8.217 mmOversize 0.4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.399 to 8.417 mm

Valve stem-to-guide clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.046 to 0.089 mm

Lubrication systemMinimum oil pressure at 80°C (175°F):

At 750 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 kgf/cm2

At 2000 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.8 kgf/cm2

Oil pump type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gear, driven by crankshaftOil pump clearances:

Gear type pump:Outer rotor-to-housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.069 to 0.140 mmInner rotor-to-housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.070 to 0.165 mmRotor-to-cover endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.028 to 0.078 mm

Rotor type pump:Outer rotor-to-housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.060 to 0.190 mmInner-to-outer rotor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.050 to 0.180 mmRotor-to-cover endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.014 to 0.100 mm

CVH engine repair procedures 2B•3

2B

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftMain bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 70Big-end bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22Oil pump mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Oil pump pick-up tube bolt to block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15Oil pump pick-up to pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9Oil pump cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 12 6 to 9Sump (with one-piece gasket) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 to 8 4 to 6Rear oil seal carrier bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Sump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Flywheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63Crankshaft pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 81Cylinder head bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 40Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten further 90° Tighten further 90°Stage 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten further 90° Tighten further 90°

Camshaft thrust plate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41Belt tensioner bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13Coolant pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6Rocker arm studs in head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 15Rocker arm nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 20Rocker cover screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6Timing cover screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6Exhaust manifold bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 12Inlet manifold bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13Carburettor mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15Thermostat housing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 20Engine-to-transmission bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 30Transmission oil filler plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Fuel pump nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 to 18 10 to 13Oil pressure switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 to 22 13 to 16

1.4 litre engineThe Specifications are the same as for the 1.3 litre CVH engine, except for the following:

GeneralCode . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . FUA/FUBBore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.24 mmStroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.30 mmCubic capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1392 ccMaximum continuous engine speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6200 rpm

Cylinder blockCylinder bore diameter:

Standard (1) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.220 to 77.230 mmStandard (2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.230 to 77.240 mmStandard (3) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.240 to 77.250 mmStandard (4) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.250 to 77.260 mmOversize (A) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.510 to 77.520 mmOversize (B) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.520 to 77.530 mmOversize (C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.530 to 77.540 mmOversize 0.29 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.525 to 77.535 mmOversize 0.50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.745 to 77.755 mm

Pistons and piston ringsDiameter:

Standard (1) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.190 to 77.200 mmStandard (2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.200 to 77.210 mmStandard (3) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.210 to 77.220 mmStandard (4) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.220 to 77.230 mmStandard service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.210 to 77.235 mmOversize (A) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.480 to 77.490 mmOversize (B) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.490 to 77.500 mmOversize (C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.500 to 77.510 mmOversize 0.29 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.490 to 77.515 mmOversize 0.50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.710 to 77.735 mm


Cylinder headMinimum combustion chamber depth (after refacing) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17.40 mm

Valve timingInlet valve opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15° ATDCInlet valve closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30° ABDCExhaust valve opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28° BBDCExhaust valve closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13° BTDC

Inlet valvesLength . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136.29 to 136.75 mmHead diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39.90 to 40.10 mmStem diameter:


Exhaust valvesLength . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132.97 to 133.43 mmHead diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33.90 to 34.10 mmStem diameter:


Lubrication systemOil pump type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rotor, driven by crankshaftOil pump clearances:

Outer rotor-to-housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.060 to 0.190 mmInner-to-outer rotor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.050 to 0.180 mmRotor-to-cover endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.014 to 0.100 mm


This engine, designated CVH (CompoundValve angle, Hemispherical combustionchamber) can be described in moreconventional terms as a four-cylinderoverhead camshaft (OHC) engine. It ismounted, together with the transmission,transversely at the front of the vehicle andtransmits power through open driveshafts tothe front roadwheels.

The engine is available in three capacities;1.3, 1.4 and 1.6 litre. The 1.4 litre engine beingintroduced to replace the 1.3 litre unit duringearly 1986.

The crankshaft is supported in five mainbearings within a cast iron crankcase. Thecylinder head is of light alloy construction,supporting the overhead camshaft in fivebearings. These bearings cannot be renewedand, in the event of wear occurring, thecomplete cylinder head must be changed.The fuel pump is mounted on the side of thecylinder head and is driven by a pushrod froman eccentric cam on the camshaft.

The cam followers are of the hydraulic type,which eliminates the need for valve clearanceadjustment and also ensures that valve timingis always correct. With this type of follower, ifthe engine has been standing idle for a periodof time, or after overhaul, when the engine isstarted up valve clatter may be heard. This isa normal condition and will graduallydisappear within a few minutes of starting up

as the cam followers are pressurised with oil.The distributor is driven from the rear

(flywheel) end of the camshaft.The coolant pump is mounted on the timing

belt end of the cylinder block and is driven bythe toothed belt.

A gear type oil pump is mounted on thetiming belt end of the cylinder block and isdriven by a gear on the front end of thecrankshaft.

A full-flow oil filter of throw-away type islocated on the side of crankcase nearer thefront of the vehicle.

2 Operations possible withoutremoving engine fromvehicle

The following work can be carried outwithout having to remove the engine:a) Timing belt - renewalb) Camshaft oil seal - renewalc) Camshaft - removal and refittingd) Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal*e) Sump - removal and refitting f) Piston/connecting rod - removal and

refittingg) Engine/transmission mountings - removal

and refitting*Note: Replacement of the crankshaft front oilseal with the engine in situ is made difficult byrestricted access. Accurate fitting of the newseal in this position will only be possible usingFord special tool number 21-093 (or a similarfabricated distance piece) used, together withthe crankshaft timing belt pulley retaining bolt,

to draw the new seal into position against thestop. In view of this, partial removal of theengine and transmission may well benecessary to renew this seal.

3 Operations only possiblewith engine removed fromvehicle

The following work should be carried outonly after the engine has been removed:a) Crankshaft main bearings - renewalb) Crankshaft - removal and refittingc) *Flywheel - removal and refittingd) ** Crankshaft rear oil seal - renewale) *Oil pump - removal and refittingAlthough it is possible to undertake those

operations marked * without removing theengine, and those marked ** by removing thetransmission, such work is not recommendedand is unlikely to save much time over thatrequired to withdraw the completeengine/transmission.

4 Timing belt - inspection,removal and refitting 3

Inspection1 This operation will only normally berequired at the specified timing belt renewalintervals (see Chapter 1), or for removal of thecoolant pump.


2B

2 Disconnect the battery earth lead.3 Release the alternator mounting andadjuster link bolts, push the alternator intowards the engine and slip the drivebelt fromthe pulleys. 4 On earlier models, unscrew the fourretaining bolts and remove the timing beltcover (see illustration). Note that a two-piececover has been progressively introduced onall later models (see illustration). The upperhalf of the cover is visually similar to the earlierone-piece type and can be removed afterundoing the two retaining bolts. To withdrawthe lower half it will first be necessary toremove the crankshaft pulley after which thetwo retaining bolts can then be undone andthe cover removed.5 The timing belt can now be inspected forsigns of excessive wear or damage; if found,the belt must be renewed. If the belt is

damaged or has worn prematurely, a checkmust be made to find the cause. There arethree main causes of timing belt failures andthese are as follows:a) If some of the teeth have sheared off and

some are badly worn, check the surfaceof the crankshaft pulley teeth for signs ofdamage or defects and renew the pulley,if necessary.

b) If some belt teeth have sheared off andothers are cracked at their roots, then thisindicates an excessive torque loading onthe belt, and the water pump, distributor,timing belt tensioner wheel and thecamshaft must be checked for freedom ofmovement. In the case of the camshaftthe rockers must be removed whenchecking it for freedom of rotation. Renewor repair as necessary before renewingthe timing belt.

c) If some teeth have sheared from the beltwhilst others are undamaged, the belt willhave jammed in the belt pulley or theengine has possibly been over-revved.Check the items mentioned in (b) andrenew as necessary.

Note: In 1988, an improved timing belt wasintroduced (part no. 1653887) together with amodified tensioner pulley of larger diameter(part no. 6182891). If the belt is to berenewed, then the modified pulley must alsobe renewed.

Removal6 To remove the timing belt, proceed asfollows:

7 Using a ring or socket spanner on thecrankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft untilthe timing mark on the camshaft sprocket isopposite the TDC mark on the cylinder headand the small projection on the crankshaft beltsprocket front flange is in alignment with theTDC mark on the oil pump casing. Removethe starter, jam the flywheel ring gear andunbolt and remove the crankshaft pulley (seeillustrations).8 Slacken the bolts which secure the belttensioner and using a large screwdriver, prisethe tensioner to one side to relieve springtension on the belt. (Some tensioners do notincorporate a spring.) Temporarily retightenthe bolts.9 If the original belt is to be refitted, mark itfor direction of travel and also the exact toothpositions on all three sprockets.10 Slip the timing belt from its sprockets.

Refitting11 Refit by reversing the removal operations,but before engaging the belt to the camshaftand crankshaft sprockets, check that they areset to TDC as previously described. Adjust theposition of the sprockets slightly if necessary,but avoid any excessive movement of thesprockets while the belt is off, as the pistoncrowns and valve heads may make contact,with consequent damage to bothcomponents.12 Engage the timing belt with the teeth ofthe crankshaft sprocket (slip the sprocket offthe crankshaft if necessary to avoid kinkingthe belt), and then pull the belt verticallyupright on its right-hand run. Keep it taut andengage it with the teeth of the camshaftsprocket. Check that the positions of thecrankshaft and camshaft sprockets have notaltered.13 Wind the belt around the camshaftsprocket, around and under the tensioner idlerpulley and over the coolant pump sprocket(no set position for this) (see illustration).14 Loosen the tensioner retaining bolts byhalf a turn each to allow the tensioner to snapinto position against the timing belt.15 With the crankshaft locked in position atTDC, fit a 41 mm socket and torque wrenchonto the camshaft sprocket hexagon andapply an anti-clockwise torque in accordance


4.4a Undo the four retaining bolts(arrowed) to remove the timing cover -

1-piece type

4.7a Camshaft sprocket timing mark

4.7d . . . another method of jamming theflywheel ring gear

4.7c One method of jamming the flywheelring gear . . .

4.7b Align the crankshaft sprocket with itstiming mark

4.4b The 2-piece timing belt cover

with the settings given in the Specifications.Whilst applying this torque setting to thecamshaft, simultaneously tighten thetensioner retaining bolts, right-hand then left-hand bolt, to their specified torque wrenchsetting. This is an initial setting up procedureonly - the belt tension should be checked withFord tool 21-113: therefore the car will have tobe taken to a dealer as soon as possible (seeillustration).16 Refit the crankshaft pulley, the retainingbolt and washer, and tighten to the specifiedtorque wrench setting (see illustration).17 Refit the belt cover, refit and adjust thedrivebelt, and reconnect the battery.

5 Camshaft oil seal - renewal 31 Disconnect the battery earth lead.2 Release the timing belt from the camshaftsprocket.3 Pass a bar through one of the holes in thecamshaft sprocket to anchor the sprocketwhile the retaining bolt is unscrewed. Removethe sprocket.4 Using a suitable tool, hooked at its end,prise out the oil seal (see illustration).5 Apply a little grease to the lips of the newseal and draw it into position using thesprocket bolt and a suitable distance piece(see illustration). 6 Refit the sprocket, tightening the bolt to thespecified torque wrench setting. Thread-

locking compound should be applied to thethreads of the bolt.7 Refit and tension the timing belt.8 Reconnect the battery.

6 Camshaft - removal andrefitting 3

Removal1 Disconnect the battery earth lead.2 Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hosefrom the inlet manifold and the rocker cover.3 Extract the two larger screws from the lid ofthe air cleaner, raise the air cleaner,disconnect the hoses and remove the cleaner.4 Disconnect the pipes and remove thewindscreen washer fluid reservoir from theengine compartment.5 Disconnect the HT leads from the sparkplugs, then remove the distributor cap andsecure it to the left-hand side of the enginecompartment.6 Unscrew the three bolts and withdraw thedistributor from the cylinder head. Note thatthe distributor body is marked in relation tothe cylinder head.7 Unbolt and remove the fuel pump,complete with coil spring. Withdraw theinsulating spacer and operating pushrod.8 Unbolt the throttle cable bracket at thecarburettor and then disconnect the cable bysliding back the spring clip.9 Remove the timing belt cover-to-cylinderhead attachment bolts.

10 Remove the rocker cover (seeillustration).11 Unscrew the securing nuts and removethe rocker arms and guides (see illustration).Keep the components in their originallyinstalled sequence by marking them with apiece of numbered tape or by using a suitablysub-divided box.12 Withdraw the hydraulic cam followers,again keeping them in their originally fittedsequence (see illustration).13 Slacken the alternator mounting andadjuster link bolts, push the alternator intowards the engine and slip the drivebelt fromthe pulleys. 14 Unbolt and remove the timing belt coverand turn the crankshaft to align the timingmark on the camshaft sprocket with the oneon the cylinder head.


4.16 Crankshaft pulley, bolt and washer

6.11 Rocker arm components

A Rocker armB Guide

C Spacer plate6.10 Remove the rocker cover5.5 Installing the camshaft oil seal

5.4 Removing the camshaft oil seal

4.15 Method used to initially tension thetiming belt

4.13 Timing belt correctly located

2B

15 Slacken the bolts on the timing belttensioner, lever the tensioner against thetension of its coil spring (if fitted) and retightenthe bolts. With the belt now slack, slip it fromthe camshaft sprocket.16 Pass a rod or large screwdriver throughone of the holes in the camshaft sprocket tolock it and unscrew the sprocket bolt (seeillustration). Remove the sprocket.17 Extract the two bolts and pull out thecamshaft thrust plate (see illustrations).18 Carefully withdraw the camshaft from thedistributor end of the cylinder head (seeillustration).

Refitting19 Refitting the camshaft is a reversal ofremoval, but observe the following points.20 Lubricate the camshaft bearings beforeinserting the camshaft into the cylinder head.21 It is recommended that a new oil seal isalways fitted after the camshaft has beeninstalled. Apply thread-locking compound tothe sprocket bolt threads.22 Fit and tension the timing belt.23 Oil the hydraulic cam followers withhypoid type transmission oil before insertingthem into their original bores.24 Refit the rocker arms and guides in theiroriginal sequence, use new nuts and tightento the specified torque. It is essential thatbefore each rocker arm is installed and its nuttightened, the respective cam follower ispositioned at its lowest point (in contact withcam base circle). Turn the camshaft (bymeans of the crankshaft pulley bolt) asnecessary to achieve this.25 Use a new rocker cover gasket. Do notforget to refit the timing belt cover bolts.

7 Cylinder head - removal andrefitting 3

Removal1 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 2 Remove the air cleaner and detach theconnecting hoses. 3 Drain the cooling system. 4 Disconnect the coolant hoses from thethermostat housing.

5 Disconnect the coolant hoses from theautomatic choke (if necessary). 6 Disconnect the throttle cable from thecarburettor. 7 Disconnect the fuel pipe from the fuelpump. 8 Disconnect the vacuum servo pipe from theinlet manifold. 9 Disconnect the leads from the coolanttemperature sender, the ignition coil, and theanti-run-on (anti-diesel) solenoid valve at thecarburettor. 10 Unbolt the exhaust downpipe from themanifold by unscrewing the flange nuts.Support the exhaust pipe by tying it up withwire. 11 Release the alternator mounting andadjuster link bolts, push the alternator intowards the engine and slip the drivebelt fromthe pulleys. 12 Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover. 13 Slacken the belt tensioner bolts, lever thetensioner to one side against the pressure ofthe coil spring (if fitted) and retighten the bolts.14 With the timing belt now slack, slip it fromthe camshaft sprocket. 15 Disconnect the leads from the spark plugsand unscrew and remove the spark plugs.16 Remove the rocker cover.17 Unscrew the cylinder head bolts,progressively and in the reverse sequence tothat given for tightening. Discard the bolts, asnew ones must be used at reassembly.18 Remove the cylinder head complete withmanifolds. Use the manifolds, if necessary, aslevers to rock the head from the block. Do notattempt to tap the head sideways off the

block, as it is located on dowels, and do notattempt to lever between the head and theblock, or damage will result.

Refitting19 Before installing the cylinder head, makesure that the mating surfaces of head andblock are perfectly clean with the headlocating dowels in position. Clean the boltholes free from oil. In extreme cases it ispossible for oil left in the holes to crack theblock.20 Turn the crankshaft to position No 1piston about 20 mm (0.8 in) before it reachesTDC.21 Place a new gasket on the cylinder block(see illustration). The upper surface of thegasket is marked OBEN-TOP. Note that from1986 onwards, the configuration of the holeson the cylinder head gasket have beenchanged from the earlier type and a different


6.12 Withdrawing a cam follower 6.17a Unscrewing the camshaft thrustplate bolts

7.21a Locate the new cylinder headgasket

6.18 Withdrawing the camshaft6.17b Lifting out the camshaft thrust plate

6.16 Method used to loosen the camshaftsprocket bolt

gasket is used for each size of engine. Identifi-cation is by teeth on the rear facing edge ofthe gasket, as shown (see illustration),according to engine type as follows:1.6 litre 4 teeth1.4 litre 2 teeth

22 Locate the cylinder head on its dowels(see illustration) and install and tighten thenew cylinder head bolts, tightening them infour stages (see Specifications). After the firsttwo stages, the bolt heads should be markedwith a spot of quick-drying paint so that thepaint spots all face the same direction. Nowtighten the bolts (Stage 3) through 90°(quarter turn) followed by a further 90° (Stage4). Tighten the bolts at each stage only in thesequence shown (see illustration) beforegoing on to the next stage. If all the bolts havebeen tightened equally, the paint spots shouldnow all be pointing in the same direction.23 Fit the timing belt.24 Refitting and reconnection of all othercomponents is a reversal of dismantling.25 Refill the cooling system.

8 Crankshaft front oil seal -renewal 3

Note: If replacing the oil seal with the powerunit in situ, first refer to the cautionary notesconcerning its renewal in Section 2.1 Disconnect the battery earth lead.2 Release the alternator mounting andadjuster link bolts, push the alternator intowards the engine and slip the drivebelt fromthe pulleys. 3 Unbolt and remove the timing belt coverand by using a spanner or socket on thecrankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft untilthe timing mark on the camshaft sprocket is inalignment with the mark on the cylinder head.4 Unbolt and withdraw the starter motor sothat the flywheel ring gear can be jammedwith a cold chisel or other suitable device andthe crankshaft pulley unbolted and removed.5 Slacken the belt tensioner bolts, lever thetensioner to one side and retighten the bolts.

With the belt slack, it can now be slipped fromthe sprockets. Before removing the belt noteits original position on the sprockets (mark theteeth with quick-drying paint), also itsdirection of travel.6 Pull off the crankshaft sprocket. If it is tight,use a two-legged extractor.7 Remove the dished washer from thecrankshaft, noting that the concave side isagainst the oil seal.8 Using a hooked tool, prise out the oil sealfrom the oil pump housing (see illustration).9 Grease the lips of the new seal and press itinto position using the pulley bolt and adistance piece made from a piece of tubing.10 Fit the thrustwasher (concave side to oilseal), the belt sprocket and the pulley to thecrankshaft.11 Fit and tension the timing belt.12 Fit the timing belt cover.13 Refit and tension the alternator drivebelt.14 Remove the starter ring gear jammingdevice, refit the starter motor and reconnectthe battery.


7.22a Refit the cylinder head

8.8 Extracting the oil seal from the oil pump housing7.22b Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence

A Locating dowelsB Gasket identification teeth

(1.4 litre version shown)

C Top mark

7.21b Cylinder head gasket details

2B

9 Sump - removal and refitting 3Removal1 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 2 Drain the engine oil. 3 Unbolt and remove the starter motor.4 Unbolt and remove the cover plate from theclutch housing.5 Unscrew the plastic timing belt guard fromthe front end of the engine (two bolts).6 Unscrew the sump securing boltsprogressively and remove them.

7 Remove the sump and peel away thegaskets and sealing strips.

Refitting8 On the earlier four-piece gasketarrangement, make sure that the matingsurfaces of the sump and block are clean,then fit new end sealing strips into theirgrooves and stick new side gaskets intoposition using thick grease. The ends of theside gaskets should overlap the seals. Offerup the sump, taking care not to displace thegaskets and insert the securing bolts (seeillustrations). Tighten the bolts in two stagesto the final torque given in the Specifications.Fit the timing belt guard. 9 In April 1985, a modified sump and one-piece sump gasket were introduced toimprove sealing in the region of the oil pumpand rear oil seal carrier- to-cylinder blockjoints. Removal and refitting procedures areessentially the same as for the earlier four-piece gasket arrangement but note thefollowing when refitting:a) The gasket should be fitted dry but

jointing compound should be applied tothe oil pump and rear oil seal carrier-to-cylinder block joints as shown (seeillustration).

b) To aid installation , it is helpful if a fewstuds can be screwed into the retainingbolt holes on each side to locate thegasket as the sump is fitted. As the sumpis placed in position make sure that thespacing pips in the sump face locate inthe holes in the gasket, then fit the

retaining bolts finger tight (seeillustration). Remove the studs and fit therest of the bolts.

c) Tighten the bolts evenly in two stages tothe specified torque.

Note that the one-piece gasket can be fittedto earlier engines provided that it is used inconjunction with the modified sump.10 Refit the cover plate to the flywheelhousing (see illustration).11 Refit the starter motor.12 Fill the engine with oil and reconnect thebattery.

10 Pistons/connecting rods -removal and refitting 3

Removal1 Remove the sump and the cylinder head.2 Check that the connecting rod and cap haveadjacent numbers at their big-end to indicatetheir position in the cylinder block (No 1nearest timing cover end of engine) (seeillustration).3 Bring the first piston to the lowest point ofits throw by turning the crankshaft pulley boltand then check if there is a wear ridge at thetop of the bore. If there is, it should beremoved using a scraper, but do not damagethe cylinder bore.4 Unscrew and remove the big-end bolts.5 Tap off the cap. If the bearing shell is to beused again, make sure that it is retained withthe cap. Note the two cap positioning roll pins.


9.8a Sump front (A) and rear (B) sealingstrip locations - 4-piece type

9.8c Fitting the sump over a 4-piecegasket

10.2 Connecting rod and big-end capmatching numbers (arrowed)

9.10 Fit the flywheel housing cover plate9.9b Ensure spacing pips and gasket

holes (inset) engage when fitting modifiedsump and 1-piece gasket

9.9a Sealing compound application areafor 1-piece sump gasket

A Oil pump jointB Rear oil seal carrier jointApply sealer to shaded area

9.8b Sump gasket to overlap sealing strip- 4-piece type

6 Push the piston/rod out of the top of theblock, again keeping the bearing shell with therod if the shell is to be used again.7 Repeat the removal operations on theremaining piston/rod assemblies.

Refitting8 To refit a piston/rod assembly, have thepiston ring gaps staggered as shown (seeillustration). Oil the rings and apply a pistonring compressor. Compress the piston rings.9 Oil the cylinder bores.10 Wipe clean the bearing shell seat in theconnecting rod and insert the shell (seeillustration).11 Insert the piston/rod assembly into thecylinder bore until the base of the piston ringcompressor stands squarely on the top of theblock. 12 Check that the directional arrow on thepiston crown faces towards the timing coverend of the engine, then apply the woodenhandle of a hammer to the piston crown.Strike the head of the hammer sharply to drivethe piston into the cylinder bore and releasethe ring compressor (see illustration).13 Oil the crankpin and draw the connectingrod down to engage with the crankshaft.Make sure the bearing shell is still in position.14 Wipe the bearing shell seat in the big-endcap clean and insert the bearing shell (seeillustration).15 Fit the cap, screw in the bolts and tightenthem to the specified torque (seeillustrations).

16 Repeat the operations on the remainingpistons/connecting rods. 17 Refit the sump and the cylinder head.18 Refill the engine with oil and coolant.

11 Engine/transmissionmountings - removal andrefitting

3Refer to Chapter 2A, Section 11.

12 Oil filter - renewal 21 The oil filter is of throw-away, screw-oncartridge type, mounted on the right-handside of the crankcase.2 Renewal is described in Chapter 1, Section 3.

13 Engine/transmission -removal and separation 4

Note: Proceed as described for the OHVengine in Chapter 2A, Section 12 but note thefollowing differences:1 A lateral coolant pipe is not fitted to the sideof the cylinder block on the CVH variants butthe heater hoses must be disconnected fromthe thermostat housing and distribution (seeillustrations).2 When disconnecting the driveshafts,disregard paragraphs 20 to 26 as they can bedetached by undoing the socket-head bolts.These can be loosened using a 6mm Allenkey.3 Disconnect the right-hand shaft just to theright of the intermediate shaft support


10.12 Installing a piston/connecting rodassembly

13.1b Radiator bottom hose anddistribution piece

13.1a Thermostat housing hoseconnections

10.15b . . . and tighten the retaining bolts10.15a Fit the big-end cap . . .10.14 Fit the bearing shell to the big-endcap

10.10 Fit the bearing shell to theconnecting rod

10.8 Piston ring end gap positioning

2B

bracket. Remove the bolts, together with thelink washers, and detach the shaft, but do notlet it hang freely; support it by suspendingwith a suitable length of wire. The right-handintermediate shaft can be left in positionduring removal of the engine/transmission.4 Disconnect the inner end of the left-handdriveshaft by unscrewing and removing thesocket-head bolts and three link washers.Suspend the driveshaft with wire. Note thatthere is no need to disconnect the steeringtrack-rod balljoint and lower suspension armpivot or tie-rod to enable theengine/transmission to be removed andrefitted.5 Remove the intermediate shaft once theengine/transmission is removed, to allow fortheir subsequent separation.6 Support and lower the engine/transmission(see illustrations).

14 Engine - dismantling 41 The need for dismantling will have beendictated by wear or noise in most cases.Although there is no reason why only partialdismantling cannot be carried out to renew suchitems as the oil pump or crankshaft rear oil seal,when the main bearings or big-end bearingshave been knocking, and especially if the vehiclehas covered a high mileage, it is recommendedthat a complete strip-down be carried out andevery engine component examined.2 Unbolt and remove the engine bearer andmountings. Position the engine so that it isupright and safely chocked on a bench orother convenient working surface. If theexterior of the engine is very dirty it should becleaned before dismantling, using paraffin anda stiff brush or a water-soluble solvent.3 Remove the alternator, the mountingbracket and exhaust heat shield, and theadjuster link.4 Disconnect the heater hose from thecoolant pump. 5 Drain the engine oil and remove the filter.6 Jam the flywheel starter ring gear to preventthe crankshaft from turning and unscrew thecrankshaft pulley bolt. Remove the pulley.7 Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover.8 Slacken the two bolts on the timing belttensioner, lever the tensioner against itsspring pressure and tighten the bolts to lock itin position.

9 With the belt now slack, note its runningdirection and mark the mating belt andsprocket teeth with a spot of quick-dryingpaint. This is not necessary if the belt is beingrenewed.10 Disconnect the spark plug leads andremove the distributor cap complete with HTleads.11 Unscrew and remove the spark plugs.12 Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hosefrom its connector on the crankcase (seeillustration).13 Remove the rocker cover (seeillustration).14 Unscrew the cylinder head bolts in thereverse order to tightening and discard them.New bolts must be used at reassembly. 15 Remove the cylinder head, complete withmanifolds.16 Turn the engine on its side. Do not invert itas sludge in the sump may enter the oilways.Remove the sump bolts, withdraw the sumpand peel off the gaskets and sealing strips.17 Remove the bolts from the clutchpressure plate in a progressive manner untilthe pressure of the assembly is relieved andthen remove the cover, taking care not toallow the driven plate (friction disc) to fall tothe floor.18 Unbolt and remove the flywheel. The boltholes are offset so it will only fit one way.19 Remove the engine adapter plate.20 Unbolt and remove the crankshaft rear oilseal retainer (see illustration).21 Unbolt and remove the timing belttensioner and take out the coil spring. (Thisspring is not used on all models) (seeillustration).22 Unbolt and remove the coolant pump.23 Remove the belt sprocket from thecrankshaft using the hands or, if tight, a two-legged puller. Take off the dished washer.24 Unbolt the oil pump and pick-up tube andremove them as an assembly.25 Unscrew and remove the oil pressureswitch (see illustration).26 Turn the crankshaft so that all the pistonsare half-way down the bores, and feel if awear ridge exists at the top of the bores. If so,scrape the ridge away, taking care not todamage the bores.


13.6a Attach engine support sling topoints indicated (arrowed)

14.12 Crankcase ventilation hoseattachment

14.21 Remove the timing belt tensioner14.20 Crankshaft rear oil seal retainer14.13 Lift the rocker cover clear

13.6b Engine and gearbox assemblylowered onto trolley for removal from

underneath the car

27 Inspect the big-end and main bearingcaps for markings. The main bearings shouldbe marked 1 to 5 with a directional arrowpointing to the timing cover end. The big-endcaps and connecting rods should haveadjacent matching numbers. Number 1 is atthe timing cover end of the engine. Make yourown marks if necessary.28 Unscrew the bolts from the first big-endcap and remove the cap. The cap is locatedon two roll pins, so if the cap requires tappingoff make sure that it is not tapped in asideways direction.29 Retain the bearing shell with the cap if theshell is to be used again.30 Push the piston/connecting rod out of thetop of the cylinder block, again retaining thebearing shell with the rod if the shell is to beused again.31 Remove the remaining pistons/rods in asimilar way.32 Remove the main bearing caps, keepingthe shells with their respective caps if theshells are to be used again. Lift out thecrankshaft.33 Take out the bearing shells from thecrankcase, noting the semi-circularthrustwashers on either side of the centre

bearing. Keep the shells identified as toposition in the crankcase if they are to beused again.34 Prise down the spring arms of thecrankcase ventilation baffle and remove itfrom inside the crankcase just below theventilation hose connection (see illustration).35 The engine is now completely dismantledand each component should be examinedbefore reassembling.

15 Engine - examination andrenovation 3

Crankshaft bearings, cylinderbores and pistons 1 Refer to paragraphs 1 to 15 of Section 14,Chapter 2A. The information applies equally tothe CVH engine, except that standard sizedcrankshafts are unmarked and the followingdifferences in the piston rings should benoted.2 The top rings are coated with molybdenum.Avoid damaging the coating when fitting therings to the pistons.

3 The lower (oil control) ring must be fitted sothat the manufacturer’s mark is towards thepiston crown, or the groove towards thegudgeon pin. Take care that the rails of the oilcontrol ring abut without overlapping.

Timing sprockets and belt4 It is very rare for the teeth of the sprocketsto wear, but attention should be given to thetensioner idler pulley. It must turn freely andsmoothly, be ungrooved and without anyshake in its bearing. Otherwise renew it.5 Always renew the coil spring (if fitted) in thetensioner. If the engine has covered 50 000miles (80 000 km) then it is recommended thata new belt be fitted, even if the original oneappears in good condition.

Flywheel 6 Refer to the information given in Section 14,Chapter 2A.

Oil pump7 From 1986 onwards the previously usedgear type oil pump has been superseded by anew low friction rotor type pump (seeillustrations).8 The examination and renovation proceduresare the same for each type of pump.9 Wear limit tolerances are supplied for bothpump types and the clearances can bechecked with a feeler blade as follows.10 Measure the inner-to-outer rotorclearance by inserting the feeler bladebetween the peak of one of the inner rotorgear teeth or lobes, and the outer rotor.11 Measure the outer rotor-to-housingclearance by inserting the feeler blade betweenthe outer rotor and the pump body wall.12 Measure the rotor to cover endfloat byplacing a straight edge across the pump bodyface and inserting a feeler blade between thestraight edge and the rotors.


15.7b Exploded view of the rotor type oil pump15.7a Exploded view of the gear type oil pump

A Relief valveB Driven gearC Drive gear

D Cover plateE Oil return pipe

A Pressure relief valveB Outer rotor

C Inner rotorD Oil pump cover

14.34 Crankcase ventilation baffle(arrowed)

14.25 Unscrew the oil pressure switch

2B

13 If any of the measured clearances areoutside the tolerances given in the Specifica-tions, renew the pump. Note that the rotortype pump can only be fitted to post-1986engines due to the modified drive slot on thefront of the crankshaft.

Oil seals and gaskets14 Renew the oil seals in the oil pump and inthe crankshaft rear oil seal retainer as a matterof routine at time of major overhaul. It isrecommended that the new seals should bedrawn into these components using a nut andbolt and distance pieces, rather than tappingthem into position, to avoid distortion of thelight alloy castings.15 Renew the camshaft oil seal after thecamshaft has been installed. 16 Always smear the lips of a new oil sealwith grease, and check that the smalltensioner spring in the oil seal has not beendisplaced during installation.17 Renew all gaskets by purchasing theappropriate engine set, which usually includesthe necessary oil seals.

Crankcase 18 Refer to the information given in Section14, Chapter 2A.

Camshaft and bearings19 Examine the camshaft gear and lobes fordamage or wear. If evident, a new camshaftmust be purchased, or one which has beenbuilt-up, such as are advertised by firmsspecialising in exchange components.20 The bearing internal diameters in thecylinder head should be checked against theSpecifications if a suitable gauge is available,otherwise check for movement between thecamshaft journal and the bearing. If thebearings are proved to be worn, then a newcylinder head is the only answer as thebearings are machined directly in the cylinderhead.21 Check the camshaft endfloat bytemporarily refitting the camshaft and thrustplate. If the endfloat exceeds the specifiedtolerance, renew the thrust plate.

Cam followers22 It is seldom that the hydraulic type camfollowers (tappets) wear in their cylinder headbores. If the bores are worn then a newcylinder head is called for.23 If the cam lobe contact surface showssigns of a depression or grooving, grindingout the wear surface will not only remove thehardened surface of the follower but may alsoreduce its overall length to a point where theself-adjusting capability of the cam follower isexceeded and the valve clearances are nottaken up, with consequent noisy operation.24 The cam follower cannot be dismantledfor renewal of individual components. In theevent of excessive wear or damage, it shouldbe renewed.

Cylinder head and rocker arms25 The usual reason for dismantling thecylinder head is to decarbonise and to grind inthe valves. Reference should therefore bemade to the next Section in addition to thedismantling operations described here.26 Remove the inlet and exhaust manifoldsand their gaskets, also the thermostathousing.27 Unscrew the nuts from the rocker armsand discard the nuts. New ones must be fittedat reassembly.28 Remove the rocker arms and thehydraulic cam followers, keeping them in theiroriginally fitted sequence. Keep the rockerguide and spacer plates in order.29 The camshaft need not be withdrawn butif it is wished to do so, first remove the thrustplate and take the camshaft out from the rearof the cylinder head.30 The valve springs should now becompressed. A standard type of compressorwill normally do the job, but a forked tool (PartNo 21-097) can be purchased or made up toengage on the rocker stud using a nut anddistance piece to compress it (seeillustration).31 Compress the valve spring and extract thesplit collets. Do not overcompress the spring,or the valve stem may bend. If it is foundwhen screwing down the compressor toolthat the spring retainer does not release fromthe collets, remove the compressor and placea piece of tubing on the retainer so that itdoes not impinge on the collets and place asmall block of wood under the head of thevalve. With the cylinder head resting flat downon the bench, strike the end of the tubing asharp blow with a hammer. Refit thecompressor and compress the spring.32 Extract the split collets and then gentlyrelease the compressor and remove it.33 Remove the valve spring retainer, thespring and the valve stem oil seal (seeillustration). Withdraw the valve.34 Valve removal should commence with No1 valve (nearest timing cover end). Keep thevalves and their components in their originallyinstalled order by placing them in a piece ofcard which has holes punched in it andnumbered 1 to 8.

35 To check for wear in the valve guides,place each valve in turn in its guide so thatapproximately one third of its length entersthe guide. Rock the valve from side to side. Ifany more than the slightest movement ispossible, the guides will have to be reamed(working from the valve seat end) and oversizestemmed valves fitted. If you do not have thenecessary reamer (Tool No 21-071 to 21-074),leave this work to your Ford dealer.36 Examine the valve seats. Normally theseats do not deteriorate but the valve headsare more likely to burn away, in which casenew valves can be ground in. If the seatsrequire recutting, use a standard cutter,available from most accessory or tool stores.37 Renewal of any valve seat which iscracked or beyond recutting is definitely a jobfor your dealer or motor engineering works.38 If the rocker arm studs must be removedfor any reason, a special procedure isnecessary. Warm the upper ends of the studswith a blow-lamp flame (not a welder) beforeunscrewing them. Clean out the cylinder headthreads with an M10 tap and clean thethreads of oil or grease. Discard the old studsand fit new ones, which will be coated withadhesive compound on their threadedportion. Screw in the studs without pausing,otherwise the adhesive will start to set andprevent the stud seating.39 If the cylinder head mating surface issuspected of being distorted, it can bechecked and surface ground by your dealer ormotor engineering works. Distortion ispossible with this type of light alloy head if thebolt tightening method is not followed exactly,or if severe overheating has taken place.40 Check the rocker arm contact surfaces forwear. Renew the valve springs if they havebeen in service for 50 000 miles (80000 km) ormore.41 Commence reassembly of the cylinderhead by fitting new valve stem oil seals (seeillustrations).42 Oil No 1 valve stem and insert the valveinto its guide (see illustration).43 Fit the valve spring (closer coils to cylinderhead), then the spring retainer (seeillustrations).


15.30 Special valve spring compressingtool

15.33 Valve stem oil seal can be prisedfree

44 Compress the spring and engage the splitcollets in the cut-out in the valve stem (seeillustration). Hold them in position while thecompressor is gently released and removed.45 Repeat the operations on the remainingvalves, making sure that each valve isreturned to its original guide or, if new valveshave been fitted, into the seat into which itwas ground.46 Once all the valves have been fitted,support the ends of the cylinder head on twowooden blocks and strike the end of eachvalve stem with a plastic or copper-facedhammer, just a light blow to settle thecomponents.47 Fit the camshaft (if removed) and a new oilseal.48 Smear the hydraulic cam followers withhypoid type transmission oil and insert theminto their original bores (see illustration).

49 Fit the rocker arms with their guides andspacer plates, use new nuts and tighten to thespecified torque. It is important that eachrocker arm is installed only when its particularcam follower is at its lowest point (in contactwith the cam base circle) (see illustrations).50 Refit the exhaust and inlet manifolds andthe thermostat housing, using all newgaskets.

16 Cylinder head and pistons -decarbonising 3

Refer to the procedure given in Chapter 2A,whilst noting that the cylinder head is of lightalloy construction and thus avoiding the useof a rotary (power-driven) wire brush.


15.42 Insert a valve into its guide

15.49c Tighten the rocker arm nut15.49b Fit the rocker arm and guide15.49a Fitting a rocker arm spacer plate

15.48 Inserting a hydraulic cam follower

15.44 Compress the spring and insert thesplit collet

15.43b . . . and the valve spring retainer15.43a Locate the valve spring . . .

15.41b Valve stem oil seal fitted15.41a Using a socket to install a valvestem oil seal

2B

17 Engine - reassembly 41 With everything clean and parts renewedwhere necessary, commence reassembly byinserting the ventilation baffle into thecrankcase. Make sure that the spring armsengage securely (see illustration).2 Insert the bearing half shells into their seatsin the crankcase, making sure that the seatsare perfectly clean (see illustration).3 Stick the semi-circular thrustwashers oneither side of the centre bearing with thickgrease. Make sure that the oil channels faceoutwards (see illustration).4 Oil the bearing shells and carefully lowerthe crankshaft into position (see illustration).5 Insert the bearing shells into the main

bearing caps, making sure that their seats areperfectly clean. Oil the bearings and install thecaps to their correct numbered location andwith the directional arrow pointing towardsthe timing belt end of the engine (seeillustrations).6 Tighten the main bearing cap bolts to thespecified torque. 7 Check the crankshaft endfloat. Ideally a dialgauge should be used, but feeler blades are analternative if inserted between the face of thethrustwasher and the machined surface of thecrankshaft balance web, having first prised thecrankshaft in one direction and then the other(see illustration). Provided the thrustwashersat the centre bearing have been renewed, theendfloat should be within specified tolerance.If it is not, oversize thrustwashers are available(see Specifications).

8 The pistons/connecting rods should nowbe installed. Although new pistons will havebeen fitted to the rods by your dealer orsupplier with the piston crown arrow or castnipple in the piston oil cut-out pointingtowards the timing belt end of the engine, theF mark on the connecting rod or the oilejection hole in the rod big-end is as shown(see illustration).9 Oil the cylinder bores and install thepistons/connecting rods.10 Fit the oil pressure switch and tighten.11 Before fitting the oil pump, action must betaken to prevent damage to the pump oil sealfrom the step on the front end of thecrankshaft. First remove the Woodruff key andthen build up the front end of the crankshaft


17.1 Crankcase ventilation baffle 17.3 Locate the crankshaft thrustwasher

17.8 Piston/connecting rod orientation

A Arrow points towards timing belt endB Cast nipple positionC Cast F mark on connecting rodD Oil ejection hole

17.7 Check crankshaft endfloat using afeeler blade

17.5c . . . ensuring that they are positionedcorrectly according to their markings

17.5b . . . then fit the caps . . .17.5a Fit the bearing shells to the mainbearing caps . . .

17.4 Install the crankshaft

17.2 Main bearing upper shell fitting

using adhesive tape to form a smooth inclinedsurface to permit the pump seal to slide overthe step without turning back its lip ordisplacing the seal spring during installation(see illustration).

12 If the oil pump is new, pour some oil into itbefore installation in order to prime it androtate its driving gear a few turns.13 Align the pump gear flats with those onthe crankshaft and install the oil pump,complete with new gasket (see illustration).Tighten the bolts to the specified torque.14 Remove the adhesive tape and tap theWoodruff key into its groove (seeillustration).15 Bolt the oil pump pick-up tube intoposition (see illustration). 16 To the front end of the crankshaft, fit thedished thrustwasher (belt guide) so that itsconcave side is towards the pump (seeillustration).17 Fit the crankshaft belt sprocket. If it istight, draw it into position using the pulley boltand a distance piece. Make sure that the beltretaining flange of the sprocket is towards thefront of the crankshaft and the nose of the

shaft has been smeared with a little greasebefore fitting (see illustration).18 Install the coolant pump using a newgasket (see illustration) and tightening thebolts to the specified torque.19 Fit the timing belt tensioner and its coilspring (where fitted). Lever the tensioner fullyagainst the spring pressure and temporarilytighten the bolts.20 Using a new gasket, bolt on the rear oilseal retainer, which will have been fitted with anew oil seal and the seal lips greased (seeillustration). 21 Engage the engine adapter plate on itslocating dowels and then offer up theflywheel. It will only go on in one position as ithas offset holes (see illustrations). Insert newbolts and tighten to the specified torque. Thebolts are pre-coated with thread sealant. 22 Fit the clutch and centralise it.


17.14 Insert the crankshaft Woodruff key

17.21b . . . followed by the flywheel17.21a Locate the engine adapter plate . . .17.20 Locate the crankshaft rear oil sealand retainer

17.18 Fit the coolant pump

17.17 . . . then the crankshaft timing beltsprocket

17.16 Locate the thrustwasher . . .17.15 Fit the oil pump pick-up tuberetaining bolts

17.13 Oil pump ready for fitting17.11 Tape the front end of the crankshaftto protect the oil pump seal when fitting

2B

23 Fit the sump and the cylinder head,referring to the appropriate Sections of thisChapter.24 Refit the manifolds (see illustrations). 25 Install and tension the timing belt.26 Using a new gasket, fit the rocker cover.Tighten the cover retaining bolts to thespecified torque. 27 Reconnect the crankcase ventilationhoses between the rocker cover and thecrankcase. 28 Screw in a new set of spark plugs,correctly gapped, and tighten to the specifiedtorque - this is important. If the specifiedtorque is exceeded, the plugs may beimpossible to remove. 29 Fit the timing belt cover. 30 Fit the crankshaft pulley (if not donealready) and tighten the bolt to the specifiedtorque while the flywheel ring gear is locked toprevent it from turning. 31 Smear the sealing ring of a new oil filterwith a little grease, and screw it into positionusing hand pressure only. 32 Install the engine mounting brackets, ifremoved (see illustration). 33 Refit the ancillaries. The alternator bracketand alternator, the fuel pump, the thermostathousing and the distributor.

34 Fit the distributor cap and reconnect theHT leads. 35 Check the tightness of the oil drain plugand insert the dipstick.

18 Engine/transmission -reconnection and refitting 4

1 This is a direct reversal of removal andseparation of the engine from thetransmission. Take care not to damage theradiator or front wings during installation.

Reconnection2 Check that the clutch driven plate has beencentralised and that the pressure plate boltsare tightened to the specified torque (seeChapter 6).3 Make sure that the engine adapter plate iscorrectly located on its positioning dowels.4 Smear the splines of the transmission inputshaft with a little grease and then, supportingthe weight of the transmission, connect it tothe engine by passing the input shaft throughthe splined hub of the clutch plate until thetransmission locates on the dowels.

5 Refit the flange bolts and locate the enginebearer and mounting brackets with the stayrod (see illustrations). Tighten the bolts.6 Refit the intermediate driveshaft.

Refitting 7 The refitting procedures are similar to thosegiven for the OHV engines in Chapter 2A. 8 Once the engine/transmission is raised andthe mountings are secured, the lift sling canbe disconnected and the driveshaftreconnected. Insert the driveshaft securingbolts, together with the link washers, andtighten them to their specified torque wrenchsetting (see Chapter 8).9 Reconnect the gearchange rod andstabilizer rod, adjusting them as described inSection 17 of Chapter 2A.10 Once the engine is running, check thetiming, idle speed and mixture adjustment.11 If a number of new internal componentshave been installed, run the vehicle at arestricted speed for the first few hundredmiles to allow time for the new components tobed in. It is also recommended that, with anew or rebuilt engine, the engine oil and filterbe changed at the end of the running-inperiod.


17.24a Refit the exhaust manifold . . . 17.24c Engine lift hook is fitted with theinlet manifold

18.5b Opposing engine/gearbox mountingbracket

18.5a Engine/gearbox bearer mountingbracket and stay rod

17.32 Engine mounting unit - right-handrear

17.24b . . . and hot air ducting

3

System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Radiator with expansion tank, belt-driven coolant pump and electricradiator fan. Semi-pressurised system on 1.0 and 1.1 litre engines;fully pressurised on 1.3, 1.4 and 1.6 litre engines

RadiatorType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Crossflow, fin on tubePressure cap rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.9 kgf/cm2

ThermostatType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . WaxOpening temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85° to 89°C (185° to 192°F)Fully open temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99° to 102°C (210° to 216°F)

Coolant pumpType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Centrifugal with vee belt drive (OHV) or driven from toothed timing belt

(CVH)Drivebelt tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 mm total deflection at centre of longest run

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftCoolant pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6Radiator mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6Thermostat housing bolts:

OHV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Coolant pump pulley bolts (OHV) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6Fan shroud-to-radiator bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6Fan motor-to-shroud nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3Radiator drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 1.1

Chapter 3Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

Coolant pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6Coolant temperature gauge sender unit - removal and refitting . . . .14Cooling system - draining, flushing and refilling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2Drivebelt - removal, refitting and tensioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7Expansion tank - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1Heater - dismantling and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Heater - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12Heater blower motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11Heater controls - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9Heater controls - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10Radiator - removal, repair and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5Radiator fan - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

3•1

Specifications

Contents







54321

1 General information andprecautions

General informationThe cooling system on all models consists

of a radiator, a coolant pump, a thermostatand an electrically-operated radiator fan. Thesystem is pressurised and incorporates anoverflow container. The system used on theOHV engine differs from that used on the CVHengine in layout and location of components.The coolant pump on the OHV engine isdriven by the alternator drivebelt, while thepump on the CVH engines is driven by thetoothed timing belt.

The cooling system operates in thefollowing way. When the coolant is cold, thethermostat is shut and coolant flow isrestricted to the cylinder block, cylinder head,inlet manifold and the vehicle interior heatermatrix. As the temperature of the coolant risesthe thermostat opens, allowing initially partialand then full circulation of the coolant throughthe radiator. If the vehicle is in forward motionthen the inrush of air cools the coolant as itpasses across the radiator. If the coolanttemperature rises beyond a predeterminedlevel, due for example to ascending a gradientor being held up in a traffic jam, then theelectric fan will cut in to supplement normalcooling.

The expansion tank is of the degas typeand the necessary pressure/vacuum reliefvalve is incorporated in the tank cap.

Precautions

Antifreeze/water mixture must be renewedat the specified intervals to preserve its anti-corrosive properties. In climates whereantifreeze protection is unnecessary, acorrosion inhibitor may be used instead -consult a Ford dealer. Never run the enginefor long periods with plain water as coolant.Only use the specified antifreeze as inferiorbrands may not contain the necessarycorrosion inhibitors, or may break down athigh temperatures. Antifreeze containingmethanol is to be avoided, as the methanolevaporates.

2 Cooling system - draining,flushing, refilling 1


3 Thermostat - removal, testingand refitting 2

Removal1 Drain the cooling system.2 Loosen the retaining clips and detach thedegas and radiator top hoses from thethermostat housing. On the CVH engine, alsodetach the heater hoses.3 Disconnect the lead from the thermalswitch on the thermostat housing (seeillustration).4 Unscrew and remove the retaining bolts,then lift clear the thermostat housing (seeillustration).5 Prise free and lift out the thermostat, notingits orientation. On the CVH engine, detach thecirclip to allow the thermostat to be removedtogether with its O-ring (see illustrations).

Testing6 To test the thermostat, first check that in acold condition its valve plate is closed. Suspendit in a pan of water and gradually heat the water(see illustration). At, or near boiling, the valveplate should be fully open. A more accurate

3•2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

3.3 Disconnect the fan thermal switch lead- OHV

3.5a Thermostat retaining clip - CVH

3.6 Thermostat checking method3.5c . . . and seal ring - CVH3.5b Remove the thermostat . . .

3.4 Thermostat housing and retainingbolts - CVH

Warning: Antifreeze mixture ispoisonous. Keep it out of reachof children and pets. Washsplashes off skin and clothing

with plenty of water. Wash splashes offvehicle paintwork to avoid discolouration.

Warning: Take particular carewhen working under the bonnetwith the engine running, orignition switched on, on

vehicles fitted with a temperature-controlled radiator cooling fan. As thecoolant temperature rises the fan maysuddenly actuate so make sure that ties,clothing, hair and hands are away fromthe fan. Remember that the coolanttemperature will continue to rise for ashort time after the engine is switched off.

assessment of the opening and closing pointsof the thermostat can be made if a thermometeris placed in the water and results comparedwith the temperatures given in the Specifica-tions. Check that the thermostat closes againas the water cools down.

Refitting7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Alwaysuse a new gasket and apply a little jointingcompound to the threads of the thermostathousing bolts before screwing them in. Usenew hoses and clips where necessary (seeillustration).

4 Radiator fan - removal andrefitting 2

1 Disconnect the battery.2 Pull the wiring connector plug from the rearof the fan motor and unclip the wiring from thefan cowl (see illustration).3 Unscrew the two fan retaining bolts fromthe base of the cowl, followed by the twoupper bolts (see illustration).4 Carefully lift the fan assembly from theengine compartment, taking care not todamage the radiator.5 If removing the fan from the motor shaft,first mark their relative fitted positions toensure correct realignment on assembly.6 Extract the retaining clip and take off thefan from the motor shaft. 7 Unscrew the three nuts and separate themotor from the shroud.

8 Reassembly and refitting are reversals ofthe removal and dismantling operations.

5 Radiator - removal, repair andrefitting 2

Removal1 Drain the cooling system. Retain thecoolant if it is fit for further service.2 Release the retaining clips and disconnectall the hoses from the radiator (seeillustrations).3 Disconnect the wiring plug from the rear ofthe radiator fan motor. 4 Unscrew and remove the two mountingbolts (see illustration) and carefully lift theradiator, complete with cowl and fan, from theengine compartment. The base of the radiatoris held in place by lugs.

Repair5 If the purpose of removal was to thoroughlyclean the radiator, first reverse flush it with acold water hose. The normal coolant flow isfrom left to right (from the thermostat housingto the radiator) through the matrix and out ofthe opposite side.6 If the radiator fins are clogged with dirt,remove it with a soft brush or blowcompressed air from the rear of the radiator. Itis recommended that the fan assembly is firstremoved. In the absence of a compressed airline, a strong jet from a water hose mayprovide an alternative method of cleaning.

7 If the radiator is leaking, it is recommendedthat a reconditioned or new one is obtainedfrom specialists. In an emergency, minor leaksfrom the radiator can be cured by using aradiator sealant. If the radiator, due to neglect,requires the application of chemical cleaners,follow the manufacturer’s instructionsprecisely and appreciate that there is anelement of risk in the use of most de-scalingproducts, especially in a system whichincorporates alloy and plastic materials.

Refitting8 Refit the radiator by reversing the removaloperations, but make sure that the rubber luginsulators at its base are in position.9 Refill the system.

6 Coolant pump - removal andrefitting 3

OHV engine

Removal1 Drain the cooling system.2 Release the coolant pump pulley bolts nowwhile the drivebelt is still in position. Anytendency for the pulley to turn as the bolts areunscrewed can be restrained by depressingthe top run of the belt.3 Release the alternator mounting andadjuster link bolts, push the alternator intowards the engine and slip the drivebelt fromthe coolant pump pulley.

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•3

4.3 Radiator fan shroud securing bolts(arrowed)

5.4 Radiator left-hand mounting bolt(arrowed)

5.2b . . . the bottom hose and expansiontank hose

5.2a Disconnect the radiator top hose . . .

4.2 Radiator fan wiring connector (A) andwire retaining clip (B)

3.7 Thermostat refitted (CVH) with newhoses and clips

3

4 Disconnect the coolant hose from thepump. Remove the previously slackenedpulley bolts and take off the pulley.5 Unbolt the coolant pump and remove it.6 Peel away the old gasket from the engineblock and clean the surface.7 No provision is made for repair and if thepump is leaking or noisy it should be renewed.

Refitting8 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Use a newgasket, smeared with jointing compound, andapply the same compound to the threads ofthe fixing bolts. Tighten the bolts to thespecified torque.9 Adjust the drivebelt tension and refill thecooling system.

CVH engine

Removal10 Drain the cooling system.11 Release the alternator mountings andadjuster strap bolt, push the alternator intowards the engine and slip the drivebelt fromthe pulley. 12 Apply a spanner to the crankshaft pulleybolt and turn the crankshaft until the notch onthe pulley is opposite the TDC mark on thebelt cover scale (see illustration).13 Remove the timing belt cover. Note thaton engines fitted with the later type two-piececover, it is not possible to remove the coverlower half unless the crankshaft pulley isremoved first. However, if the two lower coverretaining bolts are removed, the cover can bemoved away from the engine sufficiently forthe pump to be removed and refitted with thecover still in place.14 Check that the camshaft and thecrankshaft sprockets are aligned with theirtiming marks. This will prove that No 1 pistonis at top dead centre, not No 4 piston. If themarks are not aligned, turn the crankshaftthrough another complete turn.15 Using a spot of quick-drying paint, markthe teeth of the belt and their notches on thesprockets so that the belt can be re-engagedin its original position in relation to thesprocket teeth.16 Slacken the belt tensioner bolts (seeillustration) and slide the tensioner to relievethe tautness of the belt, then slip the belt from

the crankshaft sprocket tensioner pulley andthe coolant pump sprocket.17 Release the clamps and disconnect thehoses from the coolant pump.18 Remove the timing belt tensioner.19 Unscrew the four bolts and remove thecoolant pump from the engine cylinder block(see illustration).20 No provision is made for repair and if thepump is leaking or noisy it must be renewed.

Refitting21 Clean away the old gasket and ensurethat the mating surfaces of the pump andblock are perfectly clean.22 Position a new gasket (on the cylinderblock) which has been smeared both sideswith jointing compound. Offer up the coolantpump, screw in the bolts and tighten to thespecified torque.23 Fit the belt tensioner, but with themounting bolts only screwed in loosely.24 Reconnect and tension the timing belt.25 Refit the timing belt cover.26 Fit the alternator drivebelt and tension it.27 Reconnect the coolant hoses to the pumpand the bottom hose to the radiator.28 Fill the cooling system.

7 Drivebelt - removal, refittingand tensioning 2


8 Expansion tank - removal andrefitting 1

1 Position a suitable container beneath theexpansion (degas) tank then loosen the tankhoses and drain the coolant from the tank. 2 Disconnect the overflow pipe from the fillerneck on the expansion tank.

3 Unscrew and remove the retaining screwand withdraw the expansion tank. 4 Refit in the reverse order to removal andtop-up the cooling system.

9 Heater controls - adjustment 21 The heater control cables are adjusted fromthe control unit.2 Move the controls to their top and bottomstops to set the adjustment. When moving thecontrols to the stop positions, a considerableamount of resistance will be felt.

10 Heater controls - removaland refitting 3

Base and L models1 Disconnect the battery earth lead.2 From inside the vehicle, remove the dashlower trim panel on each side (left and right).The panels are secured by tags and clips.3 Remove the retaining screws and withdrawthe upper steering column shroud.4 Withdraw the ashtray from the facia panel.5 Pull free and remove the heater andventilation control knobs (see illustration).


6.12 Timing marks - CVH 6.19 Coolant pump unit retaining bolts(arrowed)

10.5 Heating and ventilation controls -Base and L models

Left-hand drive shownA Two-stage fan switchB Temperature controlC Air distribution control

6.16 Slacken the timing belt tensionerbolts (arrowed)

Warning: If the cooling systemis hot, release the pressure capslowly having covered it with acloth to avoid any possibility ofscalding.

6 Unscrew and remove the two screws fromthe lower section of the instrument clusterbezel then withdraw the bezel upper sectionfrom the guide slots. Lift it clear of the controlunit at the side.7 Detach the switch lead connectors at therear of the bezel.8 At the heater casing remove the cableclamp screws and unclip the control cables(see illustration).

9 Disconnect the control unit lights, thenunscrew and remove the control unit,withdrawing complete with the Bowdencables (see illustration). 10 Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure. On completion adjust the controls.

Ghia and XR2 models11 Disconnect the battery earth lead.12 Working inside the vehicle, remove thedash lower trim panel on each side (left andright). The panels are secured with clips andtags. 13 Pull and withdraw the control knobs fromthe three rotary switches on the control unit(see illustration).14 Unscrew and remove the four screwssecuring the control unit bezel and the controlunit screws (see illustrations). Carefullywithdraw the control unit from the crashpadding.15 Disconnect the control cables from theheater unit casing by loosening the clampscrews and unclipping the cables.16 Partially withdraw the control unit (withcables) from under the crash pad so that thefan control switch lead can be detached, thenfully remove the control unit.17 This control unit type can be dismantledby bending back the four securing lugs using

a suitable screwdriver and then removing thecover. To release the Bowden cables,unscrew their clamp screws and disengagethe cables from the toothed band guides (seeillustration). The pivots and toothed bandguides can then be removed from thebaseplate of the control unit.18 Refit in the reverse order to removal andadjust the controls.

11 Heater blower motor -removal and refitting 2

1 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 2 Undo and remove the six screws securingthe bonnet lock mounting plate and thenposition the plate (and bonnet lock) to oneside. 3 Reach through the plate aperture anddetach the lead connector from the fan motor,also detach the earth lead. 4 Bend back the two retaining clips anddisengage the fan unit. 5 Rotate and remove the fan; pulling it outthrough the aperture in the cowl panel.


10.9 Control unit and cable connections - Base and L models

10.17 Control unit components - Ghia and XR2 models

A CoverB Plate nutC Toothed belt

D PivotE BaseplateF Cable

10.14b Control unit retaining screws(arrowed) - Ghia and XR2 models

10.14a Control unit bezel retaining screws(arrowed) - Ghia and XR2 models

10.13 Heating and ventilation controls -Ghia and XR2 models

A Air distribution controlB Three-stage fan switchC Temperature control

10.8 Heater control cable connections (to heater casing) - Base and L models

A Left side connectionB Right side connectionC Outer cable clamp screw

D Plate nutE Clip

3

6 Disconnect the fan cover then, using ascrewdriver, lift the motor securing clamp(see illustration) and remove the motor. 7 Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure.

12 Heater - removal and refitting 3Removal1 Disconnect the battery earth lead.2 To minimise the coolant loss, move theheater controls to the warm position thendrain the engine coolant; saving it for re-useby emptying into a suitable container.3 Working within the engine compartment,disconnect the coolant hoses from the heaterpipe stubs at the rear bulkhead. Raise theends of the hoses to minimise loss of anyremaining coolant in the hoses.4 The heater matrix will still contain coolantand should be drained by blowing into the

upper heater pipe stub and catching thecoolant which will be ejected from the lowerone.5 Remove the cover plate and gasket fromaround the heater pipe stubs. This is held tothe bulkhead by two self-tapping screws.6 Undo and remove the six screws retainingthe cowl panel cover place in position (seeillustration). Move the cover plate and bonnetlock to one side, out of the way.7 Reach through the cover plate aperture anddetach the lead connector from the fan motor(see illustration).8 Working inside the vehicle, remove thedash lower trim panels from both sides. Thepanels are held in position by clips and tags.9 Disconnect the control cables from theheater casing and the flap arms.10 Using a suitable screwdriver, unclip thecover from the heater unit (see illustration),lower the cover, together with the heatermatrix and remove rear end from the guide.The heater matrix can now be fully removed,but take care not to spill any remainingcoolant over trim and carpets.

11 Disconnect the air distribution ducts fromthe heater case on the left- and right-handsides.12 Undo the two retaining nuts and lower theheater case unit to enable it to be withdrawnsideways from underneath the facia padding.Note that on models fitted with a centralconsole it is first necessary to detach andremove the radial fan and console before theheater can be withdrawn.

Refitting13 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Checkthat the heater casing seal to the cowl is ingood order, otherwise renew it. Adjust theheater controls on completion.14 Top-up the cooling system and reconnectthe battery.

13 Heater - dismantling andreassembly 2

1 Use a sharp knife to cut through the casinggaskets in line with the casing half-jointflanges (see illustration).2 Unclip and separate the half-casings (seeillustration).3 Lift out the electric motor and fan unit.


11.6 Heater fan motor retaining clamp 12.7 Fan motor wiring connector (B)

A FanB Half-casingsC Temperature control valve

D Air distributor valveE MatrixF Cover

13.2 Heater casing components

13.1 Cut the heater casing seal gasket

12.10 Heater casing cover clips (A)

12.6 Cowl panel cover plate (A)

4 If not already removed, unclip the retainerssecuring the matrix cover, withdraw the coverand lift the matrix from its heater casemounting.5 The temperature and air distribution controlvalves can be removed by twisting them andpressing from the casing half.6 Reassembly is a reversal of the removalprocedure. When refitting the air distributionvalve, rotate the operating lever so that thewindow and valve markings align. The valvecan only be fitted in this position (seeillustration).

14 Coolant temperature gaugesender unit - removal andrefitting

21 Should the coolant temperature gauge giveincorrect readings (overheating or overcoolingindicated, with no apparent accompanyingsymptoms), then the temperature gaugesender unit may be at fault, and should berenewed as follows.2 Depressurise the cooling system byremoving and refitting the radiator orexpansion tank cap, taking precautionsagainst scalding if the engine is still warm.3 Disconnect the electrical lead, and unscrew

the sender unit from the cylinder head (seeillustration). Be prepared for some loss ofcoolant - this should be negligible.4 Smear the threads of the new sender unitwith sealant, and screw into place. Refit theelectrical lead, ensuring that a good metal-to-metal contact is obtained.5 Top-up the coolant level, and run theengine until normal operating temperature isreached (radiator fan cuts in and out). Checkfor correct gauge operation and also for leaksfrom the sender unit. No reading may indicatea poor connection at the sender unit - cleanthe terminals thoroughly.6 When the engine has cooled down, top-upthe coolant level again if necessary.


14.3 Coolant temperature gauge sender unit locationA OHV engine B CVH engine

13.6 Align the marks (arrowed) when fitting the distribution valve

3

3•8 Notes

4

System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rear-mounted fuel tank, mechanical fuel pump, thermostatically-controlled air cleaner and Ford or Weber carburettor

Fuel grade requirement1.0 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 Octane (2-star)1.1, 1.3, 1.4 and 1.6 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Octane (4-star)Note: See Section 1 for information on use of unleaded fuel.

Fuel pumpType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mechanical diaphragm type, camshaft driven, non-repairable

Air cleanerHeat sensor rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 to 30°C (79 to 86°F)

Carburettor applicationsFord 1V . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 litre (pre 1986)Ford VV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.1 and 1.3 litreWeber 2V . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.6 litre (pre 1987)Weber 2V DFTM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.4 litreWeber 2V TLD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.6 litre (1987-on)Weber (1V) TLM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 litre (1986-on)

Chapter 4Fuel and exhaust systems

Air cleaner element - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2Air cleaner - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3Carburettors (all types) - dismantling and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . .10Choke cable (Ford carburettors) - removal, refitting and

adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9Emission control components - maintenance and testing . . . . . . . . .28Emission control components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .29Exhaust and inlet manifolds - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26Exhaust system - renewal and repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27Ford 1V carburettor - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11Ford 1V carburettor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12Ford VV carburettor - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13Ford VV carburettor manual choke unit - removal and refitting . . . . .15Ford VV carburettor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16Ford VV carburettor throttle damper - removal, refitting and

adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Fuel pump - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4Fuel tank - cleaning and repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6Fuel tank - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1Throttle cable - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7Throttle pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Weber 2V carburettor - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17Weber 2V carburettor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18Weber 2V DFTM carburettor - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19Weber 2V DFTM carburettor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .20Weber 2V TLD carburettor - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21Weber 2V TLD carburettor automatic choke unit - removal and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22Weber 2V TLD carburettor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23Weber (1V) TLM carburettor - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24Weber (1V) TLM carburettor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

4•1

Specifications

Contents







54321

Ford 1V carburettorIdle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 800 rpmIdle mixture setting (CO level) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.25%Fast idle speed (manual choke) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1400 rpmFloat level setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 mmAccelerator pump stroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 mmChoke plate pull-down . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 mmMain jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112

Ford VV carburettorIdle speed (fan on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 to 850 rpmIdle mixture setting (CO level) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 to 2%

Weber 2V carburettorIdle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 775 to 825 rpmIdle mixture setting (CO level) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 to 1.50%Fast idle speed (on high cam) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2675 to 2725 rpmFloat level setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34.5 to 35.5 mmVacuum pull-down . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.2 to 5.8 mmChoke phasing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 to 2.5 mmMain jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115/125Air jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160/150Emulsion tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . F30/F30Idle jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50/60

Weber 2V DFTM carburettorIdle speed (fan running) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 to 850 rpmIdle mixture setting (CO level) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.25 to 1.75%Float height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.5 to 8.5 mmThrottle kicker speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1250 to 1350 rpmChoke fast idle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2600 to 2800 rpmChoke vacuum pull-down . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.7 to 3.2 mm

Primary SecondaryVenturi diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 mm 23 mmMain jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 125Air correction jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 165Emulsion tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . F22 F60Idle jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 60

Weber 2V TLD carburettorIdle speed (fan running) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 to 850 rpmIdle mixture setting (CO level) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.25 to 1.75%Float height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30.5 to 31.5 mmChoke vacuum pull-down . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 to 5.0 mmChoke fast idle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1850 to 1950 rpm

Primary SecondaryVenturi diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 mm 23 mmMain jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 127Emulsion tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . F105 F71Air correction jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 125

Weber (1V) TLM carburettorIdle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 775 to 825 rpmIdle mixture setting (CO level) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.20 to 1.30%Float height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29.0 to 31.0 mmChoke fast idle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3100 to 3300 rpmVenturi diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22Main jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112Air correction jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftExhaust manifold flange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 to 40 26 to 30Exhaust connecting flange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 to 45 28 to 33Carburettor flange nuts:

Ford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14Weber . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Fuel pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13

4•2 Fuel and exhaust systems


General informationThe fuel system is composed of four basic

components. These are the fuel tank with levelindicator, the fuel pump, the carburettor andits controls, and the air cleaner. A basicemission control system is fitted.

The fuel tank is located under the floorpanbeneath the rear seats. The filler neckprotrudes through the left-hand side of thevehicle, while the combined outlet pipe andfuel level indicator sender unit is located onthe right-hand side of the tank. A ventilation orbreather pipe is located on the top of the tank.

The fuel pump on all models is amechanical diaphragm type being driven fromthe camshaft. On OHV models it is mountedon the side of the cylinder block whilst onCVH models it is mounted on the side of thecylinder head and is actuated by a pushrod.The fuel pumps on both models are fullysealed units and no servicing or repairs arepossible.

On all models the air cleaner unit is of thedisposable paper element type with anintegral thermostatic air inlet control. Thethermostatic unit ensures that the air inlettemperature is in accordance with thatrequired, the warm air being drawn from aheat box mounted directly across the exhaustmanifold: cool air being drawn through theinlet in the engine compartment. Thethermostat within the air cleaner body opensor closes an air control flap valve to regulatethe air inlet temperature as required.

Precautions

Fuel

Use of unleaded fuelThe continuous use of 95 RON unleaded

fuel is dependent upon whether the engine isfitted with hardened valve seats. 957 cc and1117 cc engines built up until the end ofJanuary 1986 have “VG” or “CL” stamped onthe flywheel end of the cylinder head if theycan be run continuously on unleaded fuel. 957cc and 1117 cc engines built from February

1986 and 1296 cc engines built from October1985 are all suitable for continuous operationon unleaded fuel. CVH engines built up to theend of 1984 which are suitable for continuoususe with unleaded fuel have “LPG” stampedon the cylinder head above No 1 cylinderexhaust port. Later CVH engines are allsuitable for continuous operation on unleadedfuel.

Any vehicles which do not come into theforegoing categories may still be run onunleaded fuel, provided that every fourthtankful is of leaded fuel. It is also possible thatthe ignition timing may need to be retarded toeliminate pinking. For ignition timing values foruse with unleaded fuel, see Specifications,Chapter 5.

Tamperproof adjustment screwsCertain adjustment points in the fuel system

(and elsewhere) are protected by“tamperproof” caps, plugs or seals. Thepurpose of such tamperproofing is todiscourage adjustment by unqualifiedoperators. In some EEC countries (though notyet in the UK) it is an offence to drive a vehiclewith missing or broken tamperproof seals.Before disturbing a tamperproof seal, satisfyyourself that you will not be breaking local ornational anti-pollution regulations by doing so.Fit a new seal when adjustment is completewhen this is required by law.

Do not break tamperproof seals on avehicle which is still under warranty.

Work proceduresWhen working on fuel system components,

scrupulous cleanliness must be observed,and care must be taken not to introduce anyforeign matter into fuel lines or components.Carburettors in particular are delicateinstruments, and care should be taken not todisturb any components unnecessarily.Before attempting work on a carburettor,ensure that the relevant spares are available.Full overhaul procedures for carburettors havenot been given in this Chapter, as completestrip-down of a carburettor is unlikely to curea fault which is not immediately obvious,without introducing new problems. Ifpersistent problems are encountered, it isrecommended that the advice of a Ford dealer

or carburettor specialist is sought. Mostdealers will be able to provide carburettor re-jetting and servicing facilities, and if necessaryit should be possible to purchase areconditioned carburettor of the relevant type.

2 Air cleaner element - renewal 1Refer to Chapter 1, Section 31.

3 Air cleaner - removal andrefitting 2

1 Undo and remove the two screws from thecentre section of the cover. On 1.0 litremodels also undo the support bracket screw.2 The air cleaner assembly can now be liftedoff the carburettor sufficiently far to be able todisconnect the vacuum hose, the crankcase(flame trap) emission hose and the air inletduct (see illustration). 3 Refit in the reverse order to removal.

4 Fuel pump - testing, removaland refitting 2

Testing1 On OHV engines, the fuel pump is mountedon the cylinder block and is actuated by alever which is in direct contact with aneccentric cam on the camshaft.2 On CVH engines, the pump is mounted onthe cylinder head and is actuated by apushrod from an eccentric cam on thecamshaft.3 The fuel pump may be quite simply testedby disconnecting the fuel inlet pipe from thecarburettor and placing its open end in acontainer.4 Disconnect the LT lead from the negativeterminal of the ignition coil to prevent theengine firing.5 Actuate the starter motor. Regular well-defined spurts of fuel should be seen beingejected from the open end of the fuel inletpipe. 6 Where this is not evident and yet there isfuel in the tank, the pump is in need ofrenewal. The pump is a sealed unit andcannot be dismantled or repaired.

Removal7 To remove the pump, disconnect and plugthe fuel inlet and outlet hoses at the pump andthen unbolt it from the engine (seeillustrations).8 Retain any insulating spacers and removeand discard the flange gaskets.9 On CVH engines, withdraw the pushrod.

Fuel and exhaust systems 4•3

3.2 Air cleaner unit underside connections

4

Warning: Many of theprocedures given in thisChapter involve thedisconnection of fuel pipes and

system components which may result insome fuel spillage. Before carrying outany operation on the fuel system, refer tothe precautions given in the “Safety first”Section at the beginning of this manualand follow them implicitly. Petrol Is ahighly dangerous and volatile substance,and the precautions necessary whenhandling it cannot be over stressed.

Refitting10 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but usenew flange gaskets. If crimped type hose clipswere used originally, these will have beendestroyed when disconnecting the fuel hoses.Renew them with conventional nut and screwor plastic ratchet type clips.

5 Fuel tank - removal andrefitting 2

Removal1 Disconnect the battery earth lead.2 Using a length of flexible tubing, syphon asmuch fuel out of the tank as possible. Ensureadequate ventilation.3 Jack up the rear of the car and suitablysupport it for access beneath.4 Disconnect the flexible hoses from thesender unit.5 Disconnect the electrical leads from thesender unit (see illustration).6 While supporting the weight of the tank,unscrew and remove the four retaining nutswith flat washers (see illustration).7 Remove the tank (and guard, whereapplicable), leaving the fuel filler pipe inposition.8 If it is necessary to remove the sender unit,this can be unscrewed from the tank using theappropriate Ford tool. Alternatively a suitableC-spanner can probably be used.9 Taking care not to damage the sealingwasher, prise out the tank-to-filler pipe seal.

Refitting10 Refit the filler pipe seal, using a new seal ifthere is any doubt about the condition of theold one.11 Refit the sender unit using a new seal as theoriginal one will almost certainly be damaged.

12 The remainder of the refitting procedure isthe reverse of removal.

6 Fuel tank - cleaning andrepair 2

1 Remove the fuel tank from the vehicle.2 If the tank contains sediment or water, itmay be cleaned out using two or three rinseswith paraffin. Shake vigorously using severalchanges of paraffin, but before doing soremove the sender unit. Allow the tank todrain thoroughly.3 If removal of the tank was carried out inorder to mend a leak, have it repaired profes-sionally; radiator repairers will usually do this.To remove all trace of vapour requires severalhours of steaming out.

7 Throttle cable - removal,refitting and adjustment 3

Removal1 Disconnect the earth lead from the battery.2 From inside the car, detach and remove thelower dash trim panel on the driver’s side.3 Pull the grommet from the pedal (seeillustration), pull the inner cable through andunhook it from the pedal.4 Using a suitable punch, knock out thebulkhead grommet. This will destroy thegrommet, and release the outer cable.5 Remove the air cleaner to gain access tothe carburettor cable connection.6 Slide the clip from the inner cable end andprise off the cable from the throttle shaft ball(see illustration).7 Using a suitable screwdriver, carefully priseout the cable retaining clip. Depress the fourpegs on the retainer, and pull the retainer fromthe mounting bracket.

Refitting8 Refitting is the reverse of this procedure.


4.7a Detaching hoses from fuel pump -CVH

5.5 Fuel tank components

A TankB Ventilation hose

C Fuel filler pipe sealD Sender unit

5.6 Fuel tank retaining nuts

4.7b Fuel pump - OHV

Warning: A fuel tank must berepaired professionally. On noaccount attempt to weld orsolder a fuel tank yourself asthis will result in an explosion.

Adjustment9 With the air cleaner removed, jam the pedalin the fully open position using a suitablelength of wood against the seat or a heavyweight.10 Wind back the adjusting sleeve at thecarburettor until the carburettor linkage is justin the fully open position (see illustration).11 Release the pedal, then check to ensurethat full throttle can be obtained.12 Refit the air cleaner.

8 Throttle pedal - removal andrefitting 2

Removal1 Disconnect the earth lead from the battery.2 From inside the car, unclip and remove thelower dash trim panel on the driver’s side. 3 Pull back the insulation panel and carpetfrom around the pedal.4 Pull the grommet from the pedal, pull theinner cable through and unhook it from thepedal. 5 Unscrew and remove the pedal shaftbracket-to-bulkhead retaining bolt (seeillustration). 6 On right-hand drive models, unscrew andremove the single retaining nut from under thewheel arch. On left-hand drive models this nutwill be found on the engine side of thebulkhead. Remove the pedal.

Refitting7 Refitting is the reverse of this procedure,after which the throttle cable adjustmentshould be checked.

9 Choke cable (Fordcarburettors) - removal,refitting and adjustment

3Removal1 Disconnect the earth lead from the battery.2 Remove the air cleaner.3 Undo the screw securing the inner chokecable and carefully prise out the spring clipretaining the outer cable (see illustration).4 From inside the car, undo the singleretaining screw and detach the cable switchmounting shroud (see illustration).5 Prise free the choke cable control knobretaining clip and withdraw the knob.6 Extract the retaining bezel and pull themounting shroud clear. Pull the cable andwithdraw it through the engine compartmentside of the bulkhead.

Refitting7 Refit in the reverse order of removal, butadjust as described below according tocarburettor type.

Adjustment

Ford 1V carburettor8 Withdraw the choke knob to provide aclearance of 37 mm between the bezel andthe knob (see illustration). If possible, makeup a spacer to fit between the knob and bezelto maintain this distance.9 Working at the carburettor end of the cable,measure and make a mark 22 mm from theend of the inner cable using a pencil or tape.


7.10 Throttle cable adjusting sleeve(arrowed)

9.8 Choke knob-to-bezel clearance duringcable adjustmentB = 37 mm (1.45 in)

9.4 Choke control knob components

A BezelB ShroudC Switch lever

D ClipE Knob

9.3 Choke cable retaining screw (A) andouter cable clip (B)

8.5 Pedal unit-to-bulkhead bolt

7.6 Throttle cable retaining clip (A) andlinkage connection (B) to throttle shaft ball

7.3 Throttle cable location at the pedalend

A Inner cable locating grommetB Pedal shaftC Outer cable locating grommetD Outer cableE Bulkhead

4

Some models have a kink or are fitted with aferrule at this distance (see illustration).10 Insert the cable through its location clampso that the distance mark (kink or ferrule)butts against the inner cable clamp (seeillustration). Hold the clamp bolt with aspanner and tighten the retaining screw (seeillustration). 11 Firmly pull on the outer cable to positionthe choke operating lever against the fullchoke stop (A in photo 9.10b) then secure theouter cable in the retaining clip.

12 With the operating lever held against thefull choke stop, check that the spacer is still inposition between the choke knob and bezel(or distance is as specified in paragraph 8).13 Remove the spacer and check that thechoke fully opens and closes using the chokeknob.

Ford VV carburettor14 Proceed as given in paragraphs 8 to 13inclusive, but check that a small clearance(1.0 mm) exists between the choke operatinglever and the off stop when the lever isreleased (in the off position).

10 Carburettors (all types) -dismantling and reassembly 3

1 A complete strip-down of a carburettor isunlikely to cure a fault which is not immediatelyobvious without introducing new problems. Ifpersistent carburation problems areencountered, it is recommended that theadvice of a Ford dealer or specialist is sought.Most dealers will be able to provide carburettorre-jetting and servicing facilities and ifnecessary, it should be possible to buy areconditioned carburettor of the relevant type.2 If it is decided to go ahead and service acarburettor, check the cost and availability ofspare parts before commencement. Obtain acarburettor repair kit, which will contain thenecessary gaskets, diaphragms and otherrenewable items.3 When working on carburettors, scrupulouscleanliness must be observed and care mustbe taken not to introduce any foreign matterinto components. Carburettors are delicateinstruments and care should be taken not todisturb any components unnecessarily.4 Referring to the relevant exploded view ofthe carburettor (see illustrations), removeeach component part whilst making a note ofits fitted position. Make alignment marks onlinkages etc.5 Reassemble the carburettor in the reverseorder to dismantling, using new gaskets, O-rings etc. Be careful not to kink anydiaphragms.


9.9 Choke cable end types

A Plain cableB Cable with kinkC Cable with ferrule

D Outer cableE Inner cableX = 22 mm (0.866 in)

9.10b . . . and tighten retaining screw. Alsoshown is the fuel choke stop (A)

9.10a Locate the ferrule against clamp(arrowed) . . .

10.4a Ford 1V carburettor components1 Choke spindle2 Choke plate3 Fuel inlet filter4 Needle valve housing5 Needle valve6 Float7 Pump return spring8 Accelerator pump diaphragm9 Tamperproof plug10 Throttle plate11 Mixture screw12 Throttle spindle13 Main jet

Note: Some carburettors may have an anti-dieseling valve (idle cut-off) fitted


410.4b Ford VV carburettor components

A Top coverB Manual chokeC Lever housingD Choke cable bracketE Auto-choke*F Bi-metal housing*G Control diaphragm coverH Control diaphragmJ Accelerator pump diaphragm

K Accelerator pump coverL Progressive throttle camM Mixture screwN Anti-dieseling valveP Idle speed screwQ Needle valveR Float bracket

* Certain overseas models only (manual chokefor UK models)

10.4c Ford VV carburettor -modified accelerator pump

A Pump coverB SpringC Metal plate

D DiaphragmE SpacerF Vacuum passage


10.4d Weber 2V carburettor components

A Electric choke housingB Choke pull-down diaphragm unitC Upper bodyD Inlet filterE Accelerator discharge tubeF Anti-dieseling solenoidG Mixture screw

H Accelerator pump unitI Power valve diaphragm unitJ Throttle platesK Secondary throttle spindleL Fast idle adjusterM FloatN Idle speed adjusting screw

O Combined emulsion tube, aircorrection and main jets

P Idle jetsQ Fuel return correctionR Needle valveS Needle valve housingT Rubber seal


4

10.4e Weber 2V DFTM carburettor components

A Manual choke unitB Choke vacuum pull-downC Secondary idle jetD Secondary venturi vacuum unitE Idle speed adjustment screw

F Idle mixture adjustment screwG Accelerator pump assemblyH Throttle kickerJ Power valve diaphragmK Float

L Primary emulsion tubeM Primary idle jetN Needle valveP Fuel inlet filterQ Secondary emulsion tube

10.4f Weber 2V DFTM carburettor -throttle kicker assembly

A Return springB Diaphragm


10.4g Weber 2V TLD carburettor components

A Emulsion tubesB Air correction jetsC Automatic choke assemblyD Choke vacuum pull-down diaphragm

E Main jetsF Secondary venturi vacuum unitG Power valve diaphragmH Accelerator pump diaphragm

J Idle mixture adjustment screwL Needle valveM Anti-run-on solenoid valveN Fuel inlet filter


4

10.4h Weber (1V) TLM carburettor components

A Upper body (top cover)B Choke mechanismC Accelerator pumpD Accelerator pump discharge tube

E Idle speed screwF Throttle valve blockG Fast idle speed screwH Throttle valve plate spindle

J Anti-run-on solenoid valveK Power valve assemblyL FloatM Mixture screw

11 Ford 1V carburettor -adjustment 3

1 Before carrying out the followingadjustments ensure that all other enginevariables ie. contact breaker points gap,ignition timing, spark plug gap, valveclearances etc, have been checked and,where necessary, adjusted to their specifiedsettings. The air cleaner must be fitted duringadjustments.

Idle speed2 Refer to Chapter 1, Section 10.

Idle mixture3 Refer to Chapter 1, Section 11.

Fast idle4 Check and adjust the slow idle speed, thenremove the air cleaner unit and check thechoke plate pull-down, below.5 With the engine warmed up, hold the chokeplate fully open, operate the choke linkage asfar as possible (about 1/3 of its travel) andcheck the fast idle speed.6 To adjust the fast idle, bend the tag therequired amount (see illustration).

Choke plate pull-down7 Rotate the choke lever on the carburettoruntil the choke plate is fully closed.8 Open the choke plate against the springpressure up to its stop, then insert a gaugerod or twist drill of the specified size, asshown (see illustration). Bend the adjustingtag as necessary to give the correctdimension between the choke plate and thecarburettor.

Accelerator pump stroke9 Unscrew the throttle speed screw until itclears the linkage.10 Depress the accelerator pump diaphragmplunger fully and then check the clearancebetween the end of the plunger and theoperating lever (see illustration) using agauge rod or twist drill of the specified skew. 11 If necessary, bend the operating rod atthe U-bend to give the correct clearance.Reset the idle speed.

12 Ford 1V carburettor -removal and refitting 3

Removal1 Open the bonnet, disconnect the earth leadfrom the battery and remove the air cleaner.2 Pull off the retaining clip and prise thethrottle cable off the throttle lever ball.3 Slacken the inner choke cable clamp screwand prise out the outer cable retaining clip.Free the choke cable from the carburettor. 4 Pull off the distributor vacuum pipe and thefuel vent pipe. 5 If a crimped type clamp is fitted to the fuelinlet pipe, it should be cut off (seeillustration) and a screw type clamp fitted. If ascrew type clamp is fitted, slacken the screw,then pull off the fuel feed pipe.6 Remove the two nuts that secure thecarburettor flange and remove the nuts andspring washers.7 Carefully lift away the carburettor and itsgasket, remembering that the float chamber isstill full of petrol.

Refitting8 Refitting is the reverse of this procedurenoting the following points:a) Remove all traces of the old carburettor

gasket, clean the mating flanges and fit anew gasket.

b) Check for correct adjustment of thethrottle and choke cables.

13 Ford VV carburettor -adjustment 3

1 The following adjustments can be carriedout without having to remove the carburettorfrom the engine. The procedure must becarried out with the radiator cooling fan inoperation.2 To keep the fan running during theadjustment procedure, disconnect the wiringmulti-plug from the thermal switch (located inthe thermostat housing) and bridge the twocontacts in the plug with a short length ofwire. Disconnect the wire and refit the multi-plug on completion of the adjustments. Makesure that the engine and ignition are switchedoff when connecting and disconnecting thebridging wire.



Choke pull down/fast idle5 This semi-automatic unit in the chokehousing controls the air fuel mixture underwarm-up conditions, when the engine is underlight load or cruise conditions. The checkingand adjustment of this unit is best entrustedto your Ford dealer.

14 Ford VV carburettor throttledamper - removal, refittingand adjustment

3Removal1 Certain later models are fitted with a throttledamper mounted on a bracket on the side ofthe carburettor to allow progressive closure ofthe throttle linkage (see illustration).2 To remove the damper, remove the aircleaner, slacken the locknut and remove thedamper from its bracket.

Refitting3 Refit the damper by screwing it into place inthe bracket, then adjust the unit as follows.


11.6 Hold open choke plate (B) and adjustfast idle tag (A) - Ford 1V carburettor

11.10 Insert twist drill (A) and bend U-link -arrowed (B) - Ford 1V carburettor

12.5 Cutting off a crimped type fuel hoseclip

11.8 Insert twist drill (A) and adjust pulldown tag (B) - Ford 1V carburettor

Adjustment4 Refer to Chapter 1, Section 16.

15 Ford VV carburettor manualchoke unit - removal andrefitting

3Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Remove the air cleaner.3 Remove the retaining clip, slacken theclamp bolt and disconnect the choke cablefrom the linkage and support bracket.4 Using a Torx type key or socket bit, undothe three screws and detach the lever housingfrom the choke unit (see illustration).5 Undo the three Torx screws and detach thechoke unit from the carburettor.

Refitting6 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval, but use new gaskets between thechoke unit and carburettor, and between thelever housing and choke unit. Ensure that thelatter is positioned as shown (see illustration)and make sure that the spring-loaded arm inthe lever housing locates over the linkage inthe choke unit.7 Reconnect the choke cable and refit the aircleaner, then reconnect the battery.

16 Ford VV carburettor -removal and refitting 3

Removal1 Remove the air cleaner.2 Disconnect the choke cable from theoperating lever on the choke housing.3 Pull off the electrical lead from the anti-run-on valve on the carburettor.4 Disconnect the distributor vacuum pipe.5 Disconnect the throttle cable by pulling thespring clip to release the end fitting from theball-stud and then unscrewing the cablebracket fixing bolt.6 Disconnect and plug the fuel inlet hosefrom the carburettor. If crimped type hoseclips are used, cut them off and fit screw typeclips at reassembly.7 Unscrew the two carburettor mountingflange nuts and lift the carburettor from theinlet manifold. Remove the idle speed screw ifnecessary for access to the nut.

Refitting8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but makesure that a new flange gasket is used onperfectly clean mating surfaces.9 Reconnect and adjust the choke cable.

17 Weber 2V carburettor -adjustment 3

Idle speed/mixture1 Refer to Chapter 1, Sections 10 and 11according to model.

Fast idle2 Open the bonnet and remove the aircleaner.3 Run the engine until the normal runningtemperature is reached. Hold the throttlepartly open, then close the choke plates byhand and release the throttle (seeillustration).4 The throttle mechanism will hold the chokemechanism at the fast idle position. Releasethe choke plates, which should return to theopen position.5 If the choke plates do not fully open, theneither the engine has not fully warmed up, orthe electric choke is faulty.6 Without touching the throttle, start theengine and check the fast idle speed againstthe figure given in the Specifications.7 To adjust the fast idle speed, slacken thelocknut and screw the adjuster (seeillustration) in or out as required.8 Tighten the locknut and refit the air cleaner.


15.6 Choke lever housing fitting details -Ford VV carburettor

17.7 Fast idle adjustment showing choke plates open (A) and fastidle adjustment screw (B) - Weber 2V carburettor

17.3 Choke pull-down/fast idle setting - Weber 2V carburettorA Hold choke plate shut B Hold throttle partly open

15.4 Choke unit retaining screws - Ford VV carburettor

14.1 Throttle damper arrangement - later model Ford VV carburettor

4

Vacuum pull-down9 With the air cleaner removed, pull the wireoff the electric choke.10 Remove the three retaining screws and liftoff the automatic choke outer housing withthe bi-metallic spring. Lift off the internal heatshield.11 Fit an elastic band to the choke platelever, and position it to hold the choke platesclosed (see illustration). Open the throttle toallow the choke plates to close fully.12 Using a suitable screwdriver, push thechoke diaphragm open, then measure theclearance between the choke plate and thecarburettor body, using a gauge rod or twistdrill of the specified size (see illustration).13 To adjust the opening, remove the plugand screw the adjusting screw in or out asrequired.14 Adjust the choke phasing, as shown below.15 Refit the heat shield and the chokehousing. Reconnect the electric choke wireand the air cleaner.

Choke phasing16 Adjust the vacuum pull-down as shownabove.17 Hold the throttle partly open, and positionthe fast idle adjusting screw on the centrestep of the fast idle cam. Release the throttleto hold the cam in this position.

18 Push the choke plates down until the camjams against the fast idle screw (seeillustration).19 Measure the clearance between thechoke plate and the carburettor body, using agauge rod or twist drill of the specified size.20 Bend the tag (see illustration) asrequired, to give the correct clearance.21 Refit the heat shield and the chokehousing. Reconnect the electric choke wireand the air cleaner.

18 Weber 2V carburettor -removal and refitting 3

The procedure is very similar to thatdescribed for the Ford 1V carburettor, exceptthat the manual choke cable is replaced by anelectric choke wire and four nuts are used tosecure the unit to the manifold.

19 Weber 2V DFTM carburettor- adjustment 3

1 Before carrying out the followingadjustments ensure that all other enginevariables, ie, ignition timing, spark plug gap,etc, have been checked and where necessaryadjusted to their specified settings. The air

cleaner must be fitted, the engine must be atnormal operating temperature and the radiatorcooling fan must be running.2 To keep the fan running during theadjustment procedure, disconnect the wiringmulti-plug from the thermal switch (located inthe thermostat housing) and bridge the twocontacts in the plug with a short length of wire.



Fast idle5 Adjust the engine idle speed and mixturesettings, then switch off the engine. Leave thetachometer connected from the previousoperation.6 Undo the four bolts securing the air cleanerto the carburettor, disconnect the hot and coldair inlet hoses and lift off the air cleaner.Position the air cleaner clear of the carburettor,but leave the crankcase breather hoses andthe vacuum supply hose connected.7 Pull the choke knob fully out and start theengine.8 Using a finger on the linkage lever as shown(see illustration), hold the choke plate openand note the fast idle speed.


17.11 Hold choke open with a rubber band (B) and push thediaphragm rod (A) with a small screwdriver (C) -

Weber 2V carburettor

17.20 Choke phase adjusting tag(arrowed) - Weber 2V carburettor

17.18 Checking the choke phasing -Weber 2V carburettor

A Fast idle camB Fast idle adjuster screw

17.12 Insert a twist drill (A) and adjust pull-down (B) - Weber 2V carburettor

19.8 Fast idle speed adjustment - Weber 2V DFTM carburettor

A Choke valve plate held openB Fast idle adjustment screw

9 If adjustment is necessary turn the fast idleadjusting screw until the specified speed isobtained.10 On completion refit the air cleaner anddisconnect the tachometer.

Throttle kicker11 Remove the air cleaner. Plug the vacuumsupply from the manifold.12 Have the engine at normal operatingtemperature with a tachometer connected inaccordance with the manufacturer’sinstructions.13 With the engine running and the idlespeed and mixture correctly adjusted,manually operate the throttle kicker by liftingthe operating lever upwards. Note theincrease in engine speed.14 If the increased speed is outside the figuregiven in the Specifications, remove thetamperproof plug from the top of the kickerbody and adjust the unit to give the specifiedspeed.15 Remove the tachometer and refit the aircleaner on completion.

20 Weber 2V DFTM carburettor- removal and refitting 3

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Remove the air cleaner. 3 Disconnect the electrical leads at thesolenoids (see illustrations).

4 Disconnect the vacuum pipe at thecarburettor outlet.5 Disconnect the throttle cable by releasingthe spring clip securing the end fitting to theball-stud on the linkage, and then unscrewingthe cable bracket fixing bolts.6 Release the choke cable from the linkagelever and move the bracket, with both cablesattached, to one side.7 Disconnect the fuel inlet and return hoses,noting their respective positions, and plugthem after removal. If crimped type clips areused, cut them off and use new screw typeclips when refitting.8 Undo the four mounting flange nuts andwashers and withdraw the carburettor fromthe manifold.

Refitting9 Refitting is the reversal of removal, but usea new flange gasket and ensure that themating surfaces are perfectly clean.Reconnect the choke and throttle cables andrefit the air cleaner, then adjust the idle speedand mixture settings.

21 Weber 2V TLD carburettor -adjustment 3

1 Before carrying out the followingadjustments ensure that all other enginevariables, ie, ignition timing, spark plug gap,etc, have been checked and where necessaryadjusted to their specified settings. The aircleaner must be fitted, the engine must be atnormal operating temperature and the radiatorcooling fan must be running.2 To keep the fan running during theadjustment procedure, disconnect the wiringmulti-plug from the thermal switch (located inthe thermostat housing) and bridge the twocontacts in the plug with a short length ofwire.



Fast idle5 Remove the air cleaner.6 Have the engine at normal operatingtemperature with a tachometer connected inaccordance with the manufacturer’sinstructions.7 With the engine stopped, open the throttlelinkage slightly by hand and close the chokeplate until the fast idle adjusting screw linesup with the third (middle) step of the fast idlecam (see illustration). Release the throttle sothat the fast idle screw rests on the cam.Release the choke plate.8 Without touching the throttle pedal, startthe engine by just turning the key.9 Note the fast idle speed and if adjustment isnecessary, turn the fast idle adjusting screwuntil the specified speed is obtained.10 On completion refit the air cleaner anddisconnect the tachometer.

Automatic choke unit11 Remove the air cleaner.12 Release any pressure in the coolingsystem by loosening the pressure cap on theexpansion tank (protect the hands using acloth if the engine is hot), then disconnect thewater inlet and outlet hoses at the automaticchoke unit. Clamp the hoses or position themwith their ends facing upwards to minimisecoolant leakage.13 Undo the three screws and detach thechoke bi-metal coil housing, followed by theinternal heat shield.14 Fit a rubber band to the choke plate lever,open the throttle to allow the choke plate toclose, and then secure the band to keep theplate closed.15 Using a screwdriver, push the diaphragmopen to its stop and measure the clearancebetween the lower edge of the choke plateand the air horn, using a twist drill or othergauge rod (see illustration). Where theclearance is outside that specified, removethe tamperproof plug from the diaphragmhousing and turn the screw, now exposed, inor out as necessary.


20.3b Back bleed solenoid - Weber 2V DFTM carburettor

21.15 Choke vacuum pull-downadjustment - Weber 2V TLD carburettor

A Twist drillB Diaphragm held fully openC Adjusting screw

21.7 Fast idle speed adjustment - Weber 2V TLD carburettor

A Fast idle camB Fast idle adjusting screw positioned

on third step of cam

20.3a Electrical connections - Weber 2V DFTM carburettor

4

16 Fit a new diaphragm housing tamperproofplug and remove the rubber band.17 Refit the heat shield, making sure that thelocating peg is correctly engaged in the notchin the housing.18 Place the bi-metal coil housing in position,with the coil engaged with the slot in thechoke lever which projects through the cut-out in the heat shield.19 Screw in the retaining screws finger tight,and then rotate the housing to set the housingmark opposite the dot punch mark on thechoke body (see illustration). Secure thehousing.20 Reconnect the hoses and refit the aircleaner.21 Check and if necessary top-up thecooling system.

22 Weber 2V TLD carburettorautomatic choke unit -removal and refitting 3

Removal1 Remove the air cleaner.2 Release any pressure in the cooling systemby loosening the pressure cap, then detachthe water inlet and outlet hoses at theautomatic choke unit. Clamp the hoses orposition them with their ends facing upwardsto minimise coolant leakage.3 Disconnect the lead at the anti-run-on valvesolenoid.4 Disconnect the fuel supply and returnhoses at the carburettor. If crimped type hoseclips are used, cut them off and use screwtype clips at reassembly.5 Undo the six carburettor upper bodyretaining screws and remove the upper body.Note that four of the screws are of the Torxtype and a suitable key or socket bit will beneeded for their removal.6 With the upper body removed, undo thethree screws and remove the choke bi-metalcoil housing followed by the internal heatshield (see illustration).

7 Undo the three screws securing the chokehousing to the upper body (see illustration),disconnect the link rod and remove the chokehousing.8 Undo the three screws and remove thevacuum pull-down housing cover, thenwithdraw the spring, diaphragm and operatingrod assembly.9 Make a note of the exact position of thechoke mechanism return and tension springs,then undo the nut and remove the connectingrod, levers and link from the choke housing(see illustration).10 Clean and inspect all the parts for wear,damage, cracking or distortion. Pay particularattention to the condition of the pull-downdiaphragm and the choke housing O-ringseal. Renew any parts as necessary.

Refitting11 Reassemble the choke mechanismconnecting rod, levers, link and springs.Secure the assembly with the retaining nut.12 Locate the vacuum pull-down diaphragmand operating rod in the choke housing andwith the diaphragm lying flat on the housingface, refit the cover and secure with the threescrews.

13 Locate the O-ring seal on the chokehousing, then connect the housing to the linkrod.14 Position the housing on the carburettorupper body and secure with the three screws.15 Refit the upper body to the carburettor.16 Before refitting the bi-metal coil housing,adjust the vacuum pull-down (see unitadjustment), then fit the coil housing.

23 Weber 2V TLD carburettor -removal and refitting 3

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Remove the air cleaner.3 If the engine is still hot, depressurise thecooling system by carefully releasing thepressure cap.4 Disconnect the coolant inlet and outlethoses at the automatic choke and clamp orplug their ends to prevent coolant loss.5 Disconnect the throttle cable by releasingthe spring clip securing the end fitting to theball-stud, then unscrewing the cable bracketfixing bolts.


21.19 Bi-metal coil housing and chokebody alignment marks -

Weber 2V TLD carburettor

A Dot punch markB Choke alignment mark on housing

22.7 Vacuum pull-down housing (A) andchoke housing retaining screws (B) -

Weber 2V TLD carburettor

22.9 Exploded view of automatic choke - Weber 2V TLD carburettor

A Operating linkB Fast idle cam return springC Spindle sleeveD Connecting rod and lever

E Pull-down linkF Actuating leverG O-ring seal

22.6 Choke bi-metal coil housing retainingscrews - Weber 2V TLD carburettor

6 Disconnect the fuel inlet and return hoses,noting their respective positions, and plugthem after removal. If crimped type clips areused, cut them off and use screw type clipswhen refitting.7 Disconnect the fuel inlet and return hoses.8 Disconnect the electrical lead at the anti-run-on valve solenoid.9 Using a suitable Torx type key or socket bit,unscrew the four mounting through-bolts fromthe top of the carburettor and remove the unitfrom the manifold (see illustration).

Refitting10 Refitting is the reverse sequence toremoval but use a new flange gasket andensure that the mating faces are perfectlyclean. On completion, top-up the coolingsystem and check the idle speed and mixturesettings.

24 Weber (1V) TLM carburettor- adjustment 3



Fast idle3 Have the engine at normal operatingtemperature with a reliable tachometerconnected in accordance with themanufacturer’s instructions, and the aircleaner removed.4 Hold the choke valve plate fully open withthe fingers, and then operate the choke leveron the carburettor. If the engine fast idlespeed is not as specified, turn the fast idlescrew (see illustration). This will be sealedwith liquid sealant, and the screw should belocked in a similar manner on completion ofadjustment.

25 Weber (1V) TLM carburettor- removal and refitting 3

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.2 Remove the air cleaner.

3 Release the cooling system pressure capand then disconnect the coolant hoses fromthe carburettor. Tie the ends of the hoses upas high as they will go to avoid loss of coolant. 4 Disconnect and plug the fuel hose (seeillustration).5 Disconnect the electrical lead from the fuelcut-off solenoid valve. 6 Disconnect the vacuum and vent hosesfrom the carburettor.7 Disconnect the throttle and chokeoperating cables.8 Remove the four screws (two Torx type)and lift the carburettor from the inlet manifold.

Refitting9 When refitting the carburettor, use a newflange gasket and adjust the choke cable tothe correct setting.

26 Exhaust and inlet manifolds -removal and refitting 3

Refer to Chapter 2 for removal and refittingof the manifolds.

27 Exhaust system - renewaland repair 2

Renewal1 The exhaust system fitted to all models is oftwo-piece construction but there are threedifferent system types fitted, according tomodel type (see illustration).


25.4 Fuel supply and return hosearrangement with calibrated T-piece -

Weber (1V) TLM carburettorA Fuel supply hose

27.1 Exhaust systemsA OHV models B CVH models C XR2 models

24.4 Fast idle adjustment screw - Weber (1V) TLM carburettor

23.9 Carburettor mounting through-bolts -Weber 2V TLD carburettor

4

2 The system can be renewed in sections, ascoupling sleeves are supplied so that an oldsection can be cut out and a new one insertedwithout the need to renew the entire system atthe same time.3 It is recommended, when working on anexhaust system, that the complete assemblybe removed from under the vehicle byreleasing the downpipe from the manifold andunhooking the flexible suspension hangers(see illustration).4 Assemble the complete system, but do notfully tighten the joint clips until the system isback in the vehicle. Use a new exhaustmanifold/flange gasket and check that theflexible mountings are in good order.5 Set the silencer and expansion box in theircorrect attitudes in relation to the rest of thesystem before finally tightening the joint clips.6 Check that with reasonable deflection ineither direction, the exhaust does not knockagainst any adjacent components.

Repair7 Effective repairs to exhaust system can bemade by using a proprietary repair kit.

28 Emission controlcomponents - maintenanceand testing

21 In view of the special test equipment andprocedures there is little that can be done in theway of maintenance and testing for theemissions control system. In the event of asuspected malfunction of the system, check thesecurity and condition of all vacuum andelectrical connections then, if applicable, refer tothe following paragraphs for further information.

2 In addition, whenever working on any ofthese systems, make a careful note of anyelectrical or vacuum line connections beforeremoving, to ensure correct refitting.

Positive crankcase ventilation(PCV)3 Remove all the hoses and components ofthe system and clean them in paraffin orpetrol. Ensure that all hoses are free from anyobstruction and are in a serviceable condition.Where applicable, similarly clean thecrankcase breather cap and shake it dry.Renew parts as necessary then refit them tothe car.

Thermostatically-controlled aircleaner4 Refer to Chapter 1, Section 29.

29 Emission controlcomponents - removal andrefitting

2Spark delay/sustain valve1 Disconnect the vacuum lines at the valveand remove the valve from the engine.2 When refitting a spark delay valve it mustbe positioned with the black side (markedCARB) towards the carburettor and thecoloured side (marked DIST) towards thedistributor. When refitting a spark sustainvalve the side marked VAC must be towardsthe carburettor and the side marked DISTtowards the distributor (see illustration).

Ported vacuum switch3 Remove the filler cap from the expansiontank to reduce pressure in the cooling system.If the engine is hot, remove the cap slowlyusing a rag to prevent scalding.4 Disconnect the vacuum lines and, ifnecessary, the water hoses, then unscrew thevalve from the inlet manifold or adapter.5 When refitting the valve, note that thevacuum line from the carburettor is connectedto the middle outlet on the PVS, the vacuumline from the spark delay valve (where fitted) isconnected to the outlet nearest to thethreaded end of the PVS, and the vacuum linefrom the spark sustain valve is connected tothe outlet furthest from the threaded end ofthe PVS.6 Reconnect the water hoses and, ifnecessary, top-up the cooling system.

Fuel trap7 Disconnect the vacuum lines and removethe fuel trap from the engine.8 When refitting, make sure that the fuel trapis positioned with the black side (markedCARB) towards the carburettor and the whiteside (marked DIST) towards the PVS (seeillustration).


27.3 Exhaust system flexible hanger 29.8 Fuel trap is marked for direction offitting

29.2 Spark sustain valve is marked fordirection of fitting

A to PVS B to distributor

5A

GeneralSystem type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Battery, (negative earth) coil and distributor with contact breakerFiring order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-2-4-3 (No 1 at timing cover end)

Ignition timing (initial)1.0 litre (pre-1986) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12° BTDC1.1 litre (pre-1986) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6° BTDC

Ignition timing (initial) for use with unleaded fuel1.0 models up to 2/86* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12° BTDC1.0 models from 2/86 to 8/86 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12° BTDC1.1 models up to 2/86* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2° BTDC1.1 models from 2/86-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2° BTDC*Fill with leaded fuel every 4th tankful

DistributorMake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bosch with drive by gear on camshaftAutomatic advance method . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mechanical and vacuum controlRotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-clockwise (viewed from cap)Condenser capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 ± 15% microfaradContact breaker points gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.40 to 0.50 mmDwell angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48° to 52°Dwell variation (from idle to 2000 rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4° maximumDwell overlap (lobe-to-lobe variation) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3° maximumAdvance characteristics* at 2000 rpm (engine) no load: . . . . . . . . . . . . Mechanical Vacuum Total

1.0 litre (pre-1986) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -1.0° to 4.0° 6° to 12° 5° to 16°1.1 litre (pre-1986) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3° to 9° 13° to 21° 16° to 30°

*Crankshaft degrees; initial advance not included

Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Specifications

CoilType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Low voltage with 1.5 ohm ballast resistorOutput . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 kV (minimum)Secondary resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5000 to 9000 ohms

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftSpark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 to 20 10 to 15Distributor clamp pinch-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3Distributor clamp plate bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Chapter 5 Part A:Mechanical ignition system

Condenser - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9Contact breaker gap - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3Contact breaker points - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4Distributor - overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10Distributor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7Distributor advance - checking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Distributor vacuum unit - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1Ignition lock cylinder - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11Ignition timing - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5Spark plugs, HT leads and distributor cap - inspection and

servicing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

5A•1

Specifications

Contents







54321


General informationA conventional ignition system is used on

the 1.0 and 1.1 litre OHV models marketed inthe UK before 1986. The system consists of acoil, a distributor with mechanical contactbreaker, a ballast resistor and spark plugs.The distributor is mounted on the cylinderblock and is driven from a skew gear on thecamshaft. It incorporates both mechanicaland vacuum advance capability.

The coil is mounted on the bulkhead paneland is of the oil-filled type. The ballast resistoris a grey coloured wire, built into the loomwhich runs between the ignition switch andthe coil. Its purpose is to limit the batteryvoltage to the coil during normal running toseven volts. During starting, the ballastresistor is bypassed to give full battery voltageat the coil to facilitate quick starting of theengine.

The spark plugs are of small diameter andrequire a long reach 16 mm (5⁄8 in AF) socket toremove them instead of a conventional sparkplug spanner; they are of the taper seat type.

The HT leads are of suppressed type, ofcarbon cored construction. Always pull themfrom the spark plugs by gripping the terminalrubber insulator, not the cable itself. The leadsare numbered, No 1 being at the spark plugnearest the timing cover end of the engine.

Precautions

2 Spark plugs, HT leads anddistributor cap - inspectionand servicing 1

Refer to Chapter 1, Sections 12, 13 and 21.

3 Contact breaker gap -adjustment 3


4 Contact breaker points -renewal 3


5 Ignition timing - checking andadjustment 3


6 Distributor advance -checking 3

1 A secondary use of a timing light is to checkthat the centrifugal and vacuum advancefunctions of the distributor are working.2 The tests are not precise, as would be thecase if sophisticated equipment were used, butwill at least indicate the serviceability of the unit.3 With the engine idling, timing lightconnected and vacuum pipe disconnectedand plugged, increase the engine speed to2000 rpm and note the approximate distancewhich the pulley mark moves out of alignmentwith the mark on the scale.

4 Reconnect the vacuum pipe to thedistributor and repeat the test when for thesame increase in engine speed, the alignmentdifferential of the timing marks should begreater than previously observed. Refer to theSpecifications for typical figures.5 A further check of the vacuum advance canbe made by removing the distributor cap afterthe engine has been switched off,disconnecting the distributor vacuum pipe atits suction end, and sucking the pipe. Thesuction should be sufficient to move thedistributor baseplate slightly.6 If these tests do not prove positive renewthe vacuum unit.7 Some models are equipped with a sparkdelay/sustain valve in the vacuum line fromcarburettor to distributor, the purpose ofwhich is to delay vacuum advance undercertain part throttle conditions. If such a valveis suspected of malfunctioning, it should betested by substitution, or taken to a Forddealer for specialised checking. The maineffect of the valve is to reduce exhaustemission levels and it is unlikely thatmalfunction would have a noticeable effect onengine performance.8 If a ported vacuum switch (PVS) is fitted inthe vacuum line, its purpose is to bypass thespark sustain valve when normal engineoperating temperature (as sensed by thetemperature of the coolant flowing round theinlet manifold) has been reached.

7 Distributor - removal andrefitting 3

Removal1 Remove the air cleaner unit.2 Disconnect the leads from the spark plugs,remove the distributor cap and place the capwith the leads to one side.3 Disconnect the LT lead from the coilnegative terminal and disconnect thedistributor vacuum pipe.4 Using a ring spanner or socket on thecrankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft untilNo 1 piston is at TDC. Verify this by checkingthat the timing cover mark is aligned with thenotch on the crankshaft pulley and that therotor arm (contact end) is pointing to the No 1spark plug lead contact in the distributor capwhen fitted. Do not turn the crankshaft againuntil after the distributor has been refitted.5 Mark the position of the rotor arm on therim of the distributor body (see illustration).6 Mark the position of the distributor body inrelation to the cylinder block.7 Remove the bolt which holds the distributorclamp plate to the cylinder block, do notremove the distributor by releasing the clamppinch-bolt.8 Withdraw the distributor.

Refitting9 To install the original distributor, hold it overits hole in the cylinder block so that the mark

5A•2 Mechanical ignition system

Warning: The HT voltagegenerated by an ignition systemis extremely high, and in certaincircumstances could prove

fatal. Take care to avoid receiving electricshocks from the HT side of the ignitionsystem. Do not handle HT leads, or touchthe distributor or coil when the engine isrunning. If tracing faults in the HT circuit,use well insulated tools to manipulate liveleads.

It is necessary to take extra care whenworking on the electrical system to avoiddamage to semi-conductor devices and toavoid the risk of personal injury. Inaddition to the precautions given in the“Safety first!” Section at the beginning ofthis manual, take note of the followingpoints when working on the system.

Always remove rings, watches, etcbefore working on the electrical system.Even with the battery disconnected,capacitive discharge could occur if acomponent live terminal is earthedthrough a metal object. This could cause ashock or nasty burn.

Do not reverse the battery connections.Components could be irreparablydamaged.

If the engine is being started using jumpleads and a slave battery, connect thebatteries positive to positive and negativeto negative. This also applies whenconnecting a battery charger.

Never disconnect the battery terminals,or alternator multi-plug connector, whenthe engine is running.

The battery leads and alternator multi-plug must be disconnected beforecarrying out any electric welding on thecar.

Never use an ohmmeter of the typeincorporating a hand cranked generatorfor circuit or continuity testing.

Before disconnecting any wiring, orremoving components, always ensure thatthe ignition is switched off.

After working on ignition systemcomponents, ensure that all wiring iscorrectly reconnected beforereconnecting the battery or switching onthe ignition.

made before removal is aligned with the oneon the cylinder block (No 1 piston still at TDC).10 When the distributor is installed, themeshing of the drive and driven gears willcause the rotor arm to rotate in an anti-clockwise direction. This must be anticipatedby positioning the rotor arm a few degrees inadvance of its final marked position.11 Install the distributor and check that therotor arm and distributor body marks arealigned with the marks made before removal.Tighten the clamp plate bolt.12 If the distributor was removed withoutmarking its position, or if a new distributor is

being fitted, install the distributor in thefollowing way.13 Set No 1 piston to TDC. To do this,remove No 1 spark plug and place the fingerover the plug hole. Turn the crankshaft pulleybolt until compression can be felt, whichindicates that No 1 piston is rising on its firingstroke. Continue turning until the timing marksfor TDC are in alignment.14 Hold the distributor over its hole in thecylinder block so that the vacuum unit isaligned with the engine oil dipstick guide tube.15 Set the rotor arm to anticipate its rotationas the gears mesh on installation,remembering that the arm will turn in an anti-clockwise direction and should take up a finalposition with its contact end opposite No 1spark plug lead contact (as if the distributorcap is fitted).16 Release the clamp plate pinch-bolt andinstall the distributor. Check that the body androtor arm are correctly positioned, then swivelthe clamp plate as necessary to be able toscrew in the clamp plate bolt. Tighten theclamp plate pinch-bolt.17 Fit the distributor cap and reconnect theHT and LT leads.18 Check the timing and then reconnect thevacuum pipe to the distributor.

8 Distributor vacuum unit -renewal 3

1 This will normally only be required if a newunit is to be fitted because a fault has beendiagnosed in the old one.2 Remove the distributor cap and the rotorarm. Disconnect the vacuum pipe from theunit.3 Extract the circlip which holds the vacuumadvance actuating rod to the pivot post.4 Extract the two screws which hold the unitto the distributor body, tilt the unit downwardsto release the actuating rod from the pivotpost and then withdraw the unit.5 Fitting is a reversal of removal, but apply alittle grease to the pivot post. Fitting may bemade easier if the distributor baseplate isrotated slightly with the fingers.

9 Condenser - renewal 31 If the condenser is suspected of beingfaulty, it may be removed and a new one fittedwithout having to remove the distributor.2 Release the HT leads from the spark plugs,take off the distributor cap and place the capand the leads to one side. Remove the rotorarm. 3 Disconnect the LT lead from the coilnegative terminal.4 Mark the position of the distributor body inrelation to the clamp plate and then releasethe clamp plate pinch-bolt.5 Turn the distributor approximately 120° in aclockwise direction to expose the condenserand extract its securing screw. Pull off its leadconnecting block and remove the condenser.6 Fitting is a reversal of removal.7 Check the ignition timing on completion.

10 Distributor - overhaul 31 Dismantling of the distributor should not betaken beyond the renewal of componentsdescribed in earlier Sections of this Chapter(see illustration). 2 Internal components are not supplied asspares. In the event of severe wear havingtaken place, obtain a new or reconditionedunit.

Mechanical ignition system 5A•3

10.1 Bosch distributor showingcomponents which are renewable

1 Vacuum supplypipe

2 Distributor unit3 Distributor clamp4 Vacuum unit

5 Condenser6 Contact breakers7 Rotor arm8 Distributor cap

7.5 Rotor arm (A) with rim alignment mark (B)

5A

11 Ignition lock cylinder -removal and refitting 2

1 Disconnect the battery earth terminal, thenremove the steering column lower shroud. 2 Insert the ignition key into the lock and turnto position 1.3 Using a screwdriver, depress the cylinderretaining clip and withdraw the lock cylinderby pulling on the key (see illustration). 4 Refit by simply pushing the cylinder intoposition with the key held in position 1. 5 It should be noted that the steering columnlock and tube are a combined unit and thelock cannot be renewed separately.

5A•4 Mechanical ignition system

11.3 Ignition lock cylinder removal

5B

GeneralSystem type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Battery, (negative earth), coil and distributor (breakerless electronic

ignition) incorporating electronic moduleFiring order:

OHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-2-4-3 (No 1 at timing cover end)CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 at timing cover end)

Ignition timing (initial)1.0 litre (2/86 to 8/86) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12° BTDC at idling speed1.0 litre (8/86-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10° BTDC at idling speed1.1 litre (1986-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6° BTDC at idling speed1.3 and 1.4 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12° BTDC

Ignition timing (initial) for use with unleaded fuel1.0 models from 8/86 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10° BTDC1.1 models from 2/86 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2° BTDC1.3 models up to 12/84* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8° BTDC1.3 models from 12/84 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8° BTDC1.4 models up to 1/87 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8° BTDC1.4 models from 1/87 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8° BTDC1.6 models up to 12/84* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8° BTDC1.6 models from 12/84 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8° BTDC*Fill with leaded fuel every 4th tankful

DistributorMake:

OHV engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BoschCVH engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bosch or Lucas

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BreakerlessAutomatic advance method:

1.0 and 1.1 litre (1986-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mechanical and vacuum1.4 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mechanical and vacuumAll other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ESC module

Drive:1.0 and 1.1 litre (1986-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skew gear on camshaftAll other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dog on camshaft

Rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-clockwise (viewed from top)Dwell angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Non-adjustable (governed by module)Advance characteristics (total) at 2000 rpm (engine speed):

1.0 litre (1986-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5° to 15°1.1 litre (1986-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16° to 28°1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18° to 34°1.4 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18° to 30°1.6 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17° to 30.2°

Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Specifications

Chapter 5 Part B:Electronic ignition system

Distributor - overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4Distributor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1Ignition amplifier module - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Ignition lock cylinder - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7Ignition timing - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5Spark plugs, HT leads and distributor cap - inspection and

servicing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

5B•1

Specifications

Contents







54321

CoilType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . High output breakerless ignition coilOutput (open circuit condition):

1.0 and 1.1 litre (1986-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 kV (minimum)1.4 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 kV (minimum)All other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 kV (minimum)

Primary resistance:1.0 and 1.1 litre (1986-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.13 to 1.33 ohmsAll other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.72 to 0.88 ohms

Secondary resistance:1.0 and 1.1 litre (1986-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3500 to 6500 ohms1.4 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4500 to 8600 ohmsAll other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4000 to 7000 ohms

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftSpark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 20Distributor mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5


General information

Pre-1986 modelsThe electronic system fitted to Fiesta

models manufactured before 1986 consists ofa breakerless distributor driven from the endof the camshaft, an electronic amplifiermodule mounted on the bulkhead on the left-hand side, and a high output type ignition coilfitted next to the amplifier module on thebulkhead.

The breakerless distributor is of Boschmanufacture and is distinguishable fromconventional systems by its blue distributorcap. The unit has no mechanical contactbreaker or condenser, these componentsbeing replaced by a trigger wheel, a triggercoil and a stator. The action of the distributoris to provide a pulse to the electronic modulewhich in turn actuates the ignition coil to ignitethe fuel/air mixture via the HT leads and sparkplugs.

The electronic amplifier module is a sealedunit located on the left-hand side of theengine compartment bulkhead. The functionof the module is to sense the trigger pulsefrom the distributor and amplify its voltagesufficiently to operate the module’s outputtransistor. On receipt of this amplified voltagethe module shuts off the ignition coil primarycircuit allowing HT voltage to build up withinthe coil in the conventional manner and firethe appropriate spark plug via the distributorand HT leads. On completion of the firingcycle the primary circuit is then switched onagain by the module and the cycle is repeatedfor the next cylinder.

The ignition coil operates on conventionalprinciples but with a higher output voltage.The unit is rated at 8 volts and is supplied viaa ballast resistor wire during normal running.When starting the engine the ballast resistorwire is bypassed and the coil receives fullbattery voltage. The coil used on electronic

breakerless systems is distinguished by ayellow label on the case.

The spark plugs used are the copper coredresistor type with a metric thread form. Onlythis type of plug is suitable for use in theelectronic ignition system.

Repair and overhaul operations should belimited to those described in this Chapter asonly the distributor cap, rotor arm, and HTleads are available as repair parts, all otheritems are sealed and only renewable ascomplete units. Should a fault in the systemdevelop or be suspected, the advice of yourdealer should be sought. Fault diagnosisprocedures are lengthy and must follow asystematic approach using sophisticated testequipment. For these reasons fault diagnosisand repair are considered to be beyond thescope of the average owner.

1986 models onwardsFrom 1986 onwards, all Fiesta models are

fitted with breakerless electronic ignitionsystems. 1.6 litre CVH models retain the samebasic system as described above for the pre1986 models, except that the electronicmodule is integral with the distributor. 1.0 and1.1 litre OHV and 1.4 litre CVH models areequipped with a new system alsoincorporating an electronic module integralwith the distributor. The new system operatesin the following way.

The ignition system is divided into twocircuits, low tension (primary) and hightension (secondary). The low tension circuitconsists of the battery, ignition switch,primary coil windings, electronic amplifiermodule and the signal generating systeminside the distributor. The signal generatingsystem comprises the trigger coil, triggerwheel, stator, permanent magnets and statorpick-up. The high tension circuit consists ofthe secondary coil windings, the heavyignition lead from the centre of the distributorcap to the coil, the rotor arm and the sparkplug leads and spark plugs.

When the system is in operation, lowtension voltage is changed in the coil into hightension voltage by the action of the electronicamplifier module in conjunction with the signal

generating system. As each of the triggerwheel teeth pass through the magnetic fieldcreated around the trigger coil in thedistributor, a change in the magnetic fieldforce (flux) is created which induces a voltagein the trigger coil. This voltage is passed to theelectronic amplifier module which switches offthe ignition coil primary circuit. This results inthe collapse of the magnetic field in the coilwhich generates the high tension voltage. Thehigh tension voltage is then fed via the carbonbrush in the centre of the distributor cap tothe rotor arm. The voltage passes across tothe appropriate metal segment in the cap andvia the spark plug lead to the spark plugwhere it finally jumps the spark plug gap toearth.

The distributor used on the electronicignition system of OHV engines is of Boschmanufacture, whereas on CVH engines eithera Bosch or Lucas unit may be used. Althoughthe components of the signal generatingsystem differ between the Bosch and Lucasdistributors, the principles of operation ofboth are as just described. The distributor isdriven by a skew gear from the camshaft onthe OHV engine and by an offset dog on theend of the camshaft on CVH engines.

The ignition advance is a function of thedistributor and is controlled both mechanicallyand by a vacuum-operated system. Themechanical governor mechanism consists oftwo weights which move out from thedistributor shaft as the engine speed rises dueto centrifugal force. As they move outwardsthey rotate the trigger wheel relative to thedistributor shaft and so advance the spark.The weights are held in position by two lightsprings and it is the tension of the springswhich is largely responsible for correct sparkadvancement.

The vacuum control consists of adiaphragm, one side of which is connectedvia a small bore hose to the carburettor, andthe other side to the distributor. Depression inthe inlet manifold and carburettor, whichvaries with engine speed and throttle position,causes the diaphragm to move, so moving thebaseplate and advancing or retarding thespark. A fine degree of control is achieved by

5B•2 Electronic ignition system

a spring in the diaphragm assembly.Additionally, one or more vacuum valves andtemperature sensitive control valves may beincorporated in the vacuum line between inletmanifold or carburettor and the distributor.These control the duration of the vacuum feltat the distributor and are part of the vehicleemission control systems.

Precautions

GeneralIt is necessary to take extra care when

working on the electrical system to avoiddamage to semi-conductor devices (diodesand transistors), and to avoid the risk ofpersonal injury. In addition to the precautionsgiven in the “Safety first!” Section at thebeginning of this manual, take note of thefollowing points when working on the system:

Always remove rings, watches, etcbefore working on the electrical system.Even with the battery disconnected,capacitive discharge could occur if acomponent live terminal is earthed througha metal object. This could cause a shock ornasty burn.

Do not reverse the battery connections.Components such as the alternator or anyother having semi-conductor circuitrycould be irreparably damaged.



The battery leads and alternator multi-plug must be disconnected before carryingout any electric welding on the car.

Never use an ohmmeter of the typeincorporating a hand cranked generator forcircuit or continuity testing.

Ignition and engine managementsystems

Engine management modules are verysensitive components, and certainprecautions must be taken to avoid damageto the module when working on a vehicleequipped with an engine management systemas follows.

When carrying out welding operations onthe vehicle using electric welding equipment,the battery and alternator should bedisconnected.

Although underbonnet-mounted moduleswill tolerate normal underbonnet conditions,they can be adversely affected by excess heator moisture. If using welding equipment orpressure washing equipment in the vicinity ofthe module, take care not to direct heat, orjets of water or steam at the module. If thiscannot be avoided, remove the module fromthe vehicle, and protect its wiring plug with aplastic bag.

Before disconnecting any wiring, orremoving components, always ensure that theignition is switched off.

On models with underbonnet-mountedmodules, do not run the engine with themodule detached from the body panel, as thebody acts as an effective heat sink, and themodule may be damaged due to internaloverheating.

Do not attempt to improvise fault diagnosisprocedures using a test lamp or multimeter,as irreparable damage could be caused to themodule.

After working on ignition/enginemanagement system components, ensurethat all wiring is correctly reconnected beforereconnecting the battery or switching on theignition.

On some early Bosch distributors it ispossible that with the distributor capremoved, if the engine is cranked, the capsecuring clips may fall inward and jam thetrigger wheel/vane, knocking it out ofalignment. If this happens, the distributor willhave to be renewed as the trigger wheel/vanecannot be repositioned. Care should thereforebe taken not to crank the engine with thedistributor cap removed. Later distributorshave redesigned clips which eliminate theproblem.

Ignition coilThe LT connections to the coil used with

electronic ignition cannot be confused as theterminals are of different size. Never fit a coilfrom a conventional ignition system into anelectronic ignition system otherwise theamplifier module may be damaged.

2 Spark plugs, HT leads anddistributor cap - inspectionand servicing

1

1 In general, the same information applies as ismade in Section 2 of Chapter 5A. Note,however, that a different type of plug is usedand that its electrode gap and tightening torqueare different (see Chapter 1 Specifications).2 Only remove plugs from the CVH enginewhen it is warm or cold - never when it is hot.3 Note that the firing order on the CVH engineis different from the OHV engine.

3 Distributor - removal andrefitting 3

Pre-1986 models

Removal1 The distributor is precisely positioned foroptimum ignition timing during productionand marked accordingly with a punch mark onthe distributor mounting flange and thecylinder head (see illustration).2 Disconnect the HT leads from the sparkplugs.3 Disconnect the wiring harness multi-plugfrom the distributor.4 Release the distributor cap retaining clips,lift off the cap and position it, with the HTleads, to one side (see illustration).5 Unscrew and remove the two distributorflange mounting bolts and withdraw thedistributor from the cylinder head.6 Check the distributor spindle for side-to-side movement. If excessive movement isfound, the distributor must be renewed as it isnot possible to obtain individual componentsfor overhaul.

Refitting7 Before refitting the distributor, check thecondition of the oil seal beneath the mountingflange and renew it if necessary.

Electronic ignition system 5B•3

3.4 Distributor cap removal3.1 Distributor and cylinder headalignment marks (arrowed)

5B

Warning: The HT voltagegenerated by an electronicignition system is extremelyhigh, and in certain

circumstances could prove fatal. Takecare to avoid receiving electric shocksfrom the HT side of the ignition system.Do not handle HT leads, or touch thedistributor or coil when the engine isrunning. If tracing faults in the HT circuit,use well insulated tools to manipulate liveleads.

Warning: Never remove sparkplugs from a CVH engine whenit is hot.

8 Hold the distributor so that the punchmarks on the distributor body and the offsetdrive dog are in approximate alignment, theninsert the distributor into its recess.9 Check that the drive components haveengaged and then rotate the distributor untilthe punch marks on flange and head are inalignment. Insert the bolts and tighten to thespecified torque.10 Reconnect all the disconnectedcomponents.

New unit11 Where a new distributor is being installed,its flange will obviously not have a punchmark and it must therefore be fitted in thefollowing way.12 Hold the distributor in approximately itsfitted position and also ensure that the drivedog is in approximately the correct alignmentto engage with the offset segments of thecamshaft dog.13 Locate the distributor on the cylinderhead. When you are sure that the drive dogsare fully engaged, screw in the flange bolts sothat they are not only positioned centrally inthe flange slots, but still allow the distributorto be rotated stiffly.

14 Reconnect the distributor cap, the sparkplug leads and the LT multi-plug.15 Using a little quick-drying white paint,increase the contrast of the timing notch inthe crankshaft pulley and the appropriatemark on the timing belt cover scale (seeillustration).16 Connect a timing light (stroboscope) inaccordance with the manufacturer’sinstructions.17 Start the engine, allow it to idle and pointthe timing light at the timing marks. Theyshould appear stationary and in alignment. Ifthey are not, rotate the distributor asnecessary to bring them into line and thentighten one of the distributor bolts.18 Switch off the engine, remove the timinglight and then tighten all the distributormounting bolts to the specified torque.19 Punch mark the distributor flange at apoint exactly opposite the mark on thecylinder head. Future installation can then becarried out as described in paragraphs 1 to 10of this Section.

1.0 and 1.1 litre models - 1986onwards

Removal20 Disconnect the leads from the sparkplugs, spring back the retaining clips and liftoff the distributor cap. 21 Disconnect the distributor LT wiring multi-plug (see illustration) and the vacuum hoseat the distributor vacuum unit.22 Remove No 1 spark plug (nearest thecrankshaft pulley).23 Place a finger over the plug hole and turnthe crankshaft in thermal direction of rotation(clockwise viewed from the crankshaft pulleyend) until pressure is felt in No 1 cylinder. Thisindicates that the piston is commencing itscompression stroke. The crankshaft can beturned with a spanner on the pulley bolt.24 Refer to the Specifications and look upthe ignition timing setting for the engine beingworked on.

25 Continue turning the crankshaft until thenotch on the pulley is aligned with the correctsetting on the scale located just above and tothe right of the pulley. The “O” mark on thescale represents top dead centre (TDC) andthe raised projections to the left of TDC are inincrements of 4° BTDC (see illustration).26 Check that the rotor arm is pointing to thenotch on the rim of the distributor body (seeillustration).27 Make a mark on the distributor body anda corresponding mark on the cylinder block toaid refitting.28 Undo the bolt securing the distributorclamp plate to the cylinder block, thenwithdraw the distributor from its location. Asthe distributor is removed, the rotor arm willmove a few degrees clockwise. Note the newposition of the rotor arm and make analignment mark on the distributor body rim.

Refitting29 Before installing the distributor make surethat the crankshaft is still positioned aspreviously described. If a new distributor isbeing fitted, transfer the markings madeduring removal to the new unit.


3.15 Ignition timing marks - pre 1986

3.25 Ignition timing marks - 1986 onA Crankshaft pulley notchB Timing cover scale

3.26 Rotor arm in alignment withdistributor body rim notch

3.21 The distributor LT wiring multi-plug

30 Hold the distributor over its hole in thecylinder block, with the mark made on thedistributor body aligned with the mark madeon the cylinder block.31 Position the rotor arm so that it points tothe mark made on the distributor rim afterremoval, and push the distributor fully home.As the skew gears mesh, the rotor arm willmove anti-clockwise and should align with themanufacturer’s mark on the distributor rim.32 With the distributor in place, turn the bodyslightly if necessary so that the arms of thetrigger wheel and stator are aligned, then refitand tighten the clamp plate bolt.33 Reconnect the LT wiring multi-plug andvacuum hose, then refit the distributor cap,spark plug and plug leads.34 Adjust the ignition timing.

1.4 litre models35 The procedure is the same as describedin paragraphs 1 to 19 but additionally,disconnect the vacuum pipe at the distributorvacuum unit. When refitting the distributor,leave the vacuum pipe disconnected and plugits end when setting the distributor position.Refit the pipe on completion.

4 Distributor - overhaul 3Note: Ensure that replacement parts arereadily available before carrying out anyoverhaul or repair work on the distributor.

1.0 and 1.1 litre models - 1986onwards 1 Remove the distributor from the engine.2 Remove the rotor arm (see illustration).3 Extract the circlip securing the vacuum unitrod to the baseplate pivot post.4 Undo the two vacuum unit retaining screws,tip the unit to release the rod from the pivotpost and withdraw it from the distributor body.5 Undo the two electronic amplifier moduleretaining screws and detach the module (seeillustration).6 This is the limit of dismantling that can beundertaken. Should the distributor be worn orunserviceable in any other respect, renewal ofthe complete unit will be necessary.7 Reassembly is the reversal of dismantling.Lubricate the baseplate pivot post with ahigh-melting-point grease and apply heat sinkcompound, available from Ford parts dealers,to the back of the amplifier module beforerefitting.

Bosch distributor (1.4 litremodels)8 Remove the distributor from the engine.9 Remove the rotor arm and where fitted theplastic shield (see illustration). 10 Undo the two screws securing thevacuum unit to the side of the distributor body(see illustration). Tip the unit to release therod from the baseplate pivot post andwithdraw it from the distributor.11 Undo the two screws securing theelectronic amplifier module and remove themodule (see illustration).12 This is the limit of dismantling that can beundertaken. Should the distributor be worn orunserviceable in any other respect, renewal ofthe complete unit will be necessary.13 Reassembly is the reversal of dismantling.Lubricate the baseplate pivot post with ahigh-melting-point grease and apply heat sinkcompound, available from Ford parts dealers,to the back of the amplifier module beforefitting.

Lucas distributor (1.4 litremodels)14 Remove the distributor from the engine.15 Remove the rotor arm.16 Undo the two electronic amplifierretaining screws and remove the amplifier.

Electronic ignition system 5B•5

4.5 Electronic amplifier module retainingscrews

4.11 Removing the amplifier module4.10 Vacuum unit left-hand retainingscrew

4.9 Removing the rotor arm from thedistributor

5B

4.2 Electronic distributor components

A Trigger wheelB StatorC MagnetD Trigger coilE Rotor armF LT multi-plug

17 Undo the three screws and separate thetwo halves of the distributor body (seeillustration).18 Withdraw the plastic spacer ring from thebody upper half.19 Withdraw the rubber seal, then pull theconnection off the trigger coil terminals (seeillustration). Note the fitted direction of theconnector to aid refitting. 20 Tip the trigger coil up and remove it fromthe body upper half.21 Extract the stator retaining circlip and theupper shim (see illustration).22 Lift out the stator and the lower shim.23 Slacken the vacuum unit retaining screwand remove the vacuum unit (see illustration).24 This is the limit of dismantling that can beundertaken. Should the distributor be worn orunserviceable in any other respect, renewal ofthe complete unit will be necessary.25 Reassembly is the reversal of dismantling.Lubricate the vacuum unit peg with a high-melting-point grease and apply heat sinkcompound, available from Ford dealers, to theback of the amplifier module before refitting.

5 Ignition timing - adjustment 31.0, 1.1 and 1.4 litre models -1986 onwards1 On 1.0 and 1.1 litre models the procedure isthe same as described in Chapter 5A butignore all references to dwell angle checking,as this is not applicable to electronic ignitiondistributors.2 On 1.4 litre models refer to the procedurecontained in Section 3, paragraphs 1 to 19,but note that the distributor vacuum pipemust be disconnected and plugged during thechecking operation.

Adjustments for unleaded fuel3 In order to operate vehicles on 95 RONunleaded petrol, the ignition timing may needto be retarded to avoid pinking.4 Ignition timing values for use with unleadedpetrol are given in Specifications.

6 Ignition amplifier module -renewal 2

1 The ignition amplifier cannot be repairedand, if known to be defective, must be renewedas a unit. The vacuum advance characteristicsof the module can be checked, but this is atask best entrusted to your Ford dealer.2 To remove the module unit first disconnectthe battery earth lead. 3 Detach the wiring connector from the moduleby pulling on the connector, not the leads.4 Detach the vacuum hose from the module,undo and remove the single retaining screwand remove the module.5 Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure.

7 Ignition lock cylinder -removal and refitting 2

Refer to Chapter 5A, Section 11.


4.17 Separating the distributor body halves

4.23 The distributor vacuum unit

A Circlip B Upper shim C Stator D Lower shim

4.21 The distributor stator components

4.19 Rubber seal and trigger coil connector (A)

5C

System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12V negative earth, belt-driven alternator, pre-engaged starter motor

BatteryType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12V, lead-acidCharge condition:

12.5V or above . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SatisfactoryBelow 12.5V . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Recharge

Bosch alternatorRated output (13.5V at 6000 rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45A (K1-45A) or 55A (K1-55A)Maximum continuous speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15000 rpmMinimum brush length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 mmRegulator voltage at 4000 rpm (3 to 7A load) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.7 to 14.6 voltsStator winding resistance (ohms/phase) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.09 to 0.099 (K1-45A) or 0.07 to 0.077 (K1-55A)Rotor winding resistance at 20°C (ohms) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.40 to 3.74 (K1-45A and K1-55A)

Lucas (type B) alternatorRated output (13.5V at 6000 rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45A (A133/45) or 55A (A133/55)Maximum continuous speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 000 rpmMinimum brush length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 mmRegulator voltage at 4000 rpm (3 to 7A load) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.7 to 14.6 voltsStator winding resistance (ohms/phase) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.285 to 0.305* (A133/45) or 0.088 to 0.108† (A133/45) or 0.203 (A133/55)Rotor winding resistance at 20°C (ohms) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.04 to 3.36 (A133/45 and A133/55)*Lucas Delta-type winding†Lucas Star-type winding

Lucas (type D) alternatorRated output (13.5V at 6000 rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45A or 55AMaximum continuous speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 000 rpmMinimum brush length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 mmRegulator voltage at 4000 rpm (3 to 7A load) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.7 to 14.6 voltsStator winding resistance (ohms/phase) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.229 to 0.254Rotor winding resistance at 20°C (ohms) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.04 to 3.36 (A127/45 and A127/55)

Motorola alternatorRated output (13.5V at 6000 rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45A (SD-45)Maximum continuous speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 000 rpmMinimum brush length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 mmRegulator voltage at 4000 rpm (3 to 7A load) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.7 to 14.6 voltsStator winding resistance (ohms/phase) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.23 to 0.33 (SD-45)Rotor winding resistance at 20°C (ohms) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.8 to 4.2 (SD-45)

Mitsubishi alternatorMinimum brush length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 mm

Chapter 5 Part C:Starting and charging systems

Alternator - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6Alternator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4Alternator brushes and regulator - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7Alternator drivebelt - removal, refitting and tensioning . . . . . . . . . . . .5Battery - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Battery - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1Starter motor - brush renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10Starter motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Starter motor - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

5C•1

Specifications

Contents







54321

Drivebelt tensionUsing a belt tension gauge:

CVH engine:New belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 400 to 500N (90 to 113 lbf)Used belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300 to 400N (68 to 90 lbf)

OHV engine:New belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350 to 450N (79 to 101 lbf)Used belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 to 350N (56 to 79 lbf)

Using finger pressure:All types . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 mm deflection on longest run

A used belt is one which has been in operation for at least 10 minutes

Bosch long frame and Cajavec starter motorsRating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.85 kW or 0.95 kWNumber of brushes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Minimum brush length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0 mmMinimum commutator diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.8 mmArmature endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.3 mm

Bosch short frame starter motorRating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.7 kW or 0.8 kWNumber of brushes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Minimum brush length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0 mmMinimum commutator diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.8 mmArmature endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.3 mm

Lucas starter motorRating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8M90 or 9M90Number of brushes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Minimum brush length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0 mmArmature endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 mm

Nippondenso starter motorRating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.6 kW or 0.9 kWNumber of brushes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Minimum brush length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0 mmMinimum commutator diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28.0 mmArmature endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.6 mm


General informationThe electrical system is of the 12 volt

negative earth type and comprises a 12 voltbattery, alternator with integral voltageregulator, starter motor and related electricalaccessories, components and wiring. Thebattery is charged by an alternator which isbelt-driven.

The starter motor is of the pre-engagedtype incorporating an integral solenoid. Onstarting, the solenoid moves the drive pinioninto engagement with the flywheel ring gearbefore the starter motor is energised. Oncethe engine has started, a one-way clutchprevents the motor armature being driven bythe engine until the pinion disengages fromthe flywheel.

PrecautionsIt is necessary to take extra care when

working on the electrical system to avoiddamage to semi-conductor devices (diodesand transistors), and to avoid the risk of

personal injury. In addition to the precautionsgiven in the “Safety first!” Section at thebeginning of this manual, take note of thefollowing points when working on the system:

Always remove rings, watches, etcbefore working on the electrical system.Even with the battery disconnected,capacitive discharge could occur if acomponent live terminal is earthedthrough a metal object. This could cause ashock or nasty burn.

Do not reverse the battery connections.Components such as the alternator or anyother having semi-conductor circuitrycould be irreparably damaged.



The battery leads and alternator multi-plug must be disconnected before carryingout any electric welding on the car.

Never use an ohmmeter of the typeincorporating a hand cranked generatorfor circuit or continuity testing.

2 Battery - removal and refitting 1

1 Open the bonnet and support it on its stay. 2 The battery is mounted on the left-handside in the engine compartment.

5C•2 Starting and charging systems

Warning: When reconnectingthe battery, always connect thepositive lead first and thenegative lead last.

2.3 Battery lead terminals (arrowed)

3 Disconnect the negative (earth) lead,followed by the positive lead (seeillustration). 4 Unbolt and remove the clamps from thenibs at the base of the battery casing (seeillustration). 5 Lift the battery from its location, taking carenot to spill electrolyte on the paintwork. 6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

3 Battery - maintenance 2Terminal check1 To clean the battery terminals disconnectthem, negative earth first, after having firstremoved the cover (where fitted). Use a wirebrush or abrasive paper to clean theterminals. Bad corrosion should be treatedwith a solution of bicarbonate of soda, appliedwith an old toothbrush. Do not let this solutionget inside the battery.2 Coat the battery terminals with petroleumjelly or a proprietary anti-corrosive compoundbefore reconnecting them. Reconnect andtighten the positive (live) lead first, followed bythe negative (earth) lead. Do not overtighten.

Electrolyte level check3 The battery fitted as standard equipment isprobably of the low maintenance type.However if a non-standard battery is fitted thefollowing checks should be made.4 Remove the cell covers and check that theplate separators in each cell are covered byapproximately 6.0 mm of electrolyte. If thebattery case is translucent, the cell coversneed not be removed to check the level. Top-up if necessary with distilled or de-ionisedwater; do not overfill, and mop up any spillageat once (see “Weekly checks” illustration) .

Electrolyte replenishment5 If the battery is in a fully charged state andone or more of the cells maintains a specificgravity reading which is 0.040 or more lowerthan the others, then it is likely that electrolytehas been lost from the cell at some time.

6 Top-up the cell with a solution of 1 partsulphuric acid to 2.5 parts of distilled water. Ifthe cell is already topped up draw someelectrolyte out of it with a pipette.7 It is preferable to obtain ready mixedelectrolyte: however, if the solution is to bemixed note the following:

General inspection8 Wipe clean the top of the battery with a drycloth to prevent the accumulation of dust anddampness which may cause the battery tobecome partially discharged over a period.9 Check the battery clamp and platform forcorrosion. If evident remove the battery andclean the deposits away. Then treat theaffected metal with a proprietary anti-rustliquid and paint with the original colour.10 Whenever the battery is removed it isworthwhile checking it for cracks and leakage.Cracks can be caused by topping-up the cellswith distilled water in winter after instead ofbefore a run. This gives the water no chanceto mix with the electrolyte, so the formerfreezes and splits the battery case. If the caseis fractured, it may be possible to repair it witha proprietary compound but this depends onthe material used for the case.

Testing11 If the car covers a small annual mileage itis worthwhile checking the specific gravity ofthe electrolyte every three months todetermine the state of charge of the battery.Use a hydrometer to make the check andcompare the results with the following table:Ambient temperature 25ºC (77ºF):

above belowFully charged 1.21 to 1.23 1.27 to 1.2970% charged 1.17 to 1.19 1.23 to 1.25Fully discharged 1.05 to 1.07 1.11 to 1.13Note that the specific gravity readings assumean electrolyte temperature of 15°C (60°F); forevery 10°C (18°F) below 15°C (60°F) subtract0.007. For every 10°C (18°F) above 15°C(60°F) add 0.007.12 If the battery condition is suspect, firstcheck the specific gravity of electrolyte ineach cell. A variation of 0.040 or morebetween any cells indicates loss of electrolyteor deterioration of the internal plates. 13 In cases where a sealed-for-lifemaintenance-free battery is fitted, topping-upand testing of the electrolyte in each cell is notpossible. The condition of the battery typecan therefore only be tested using a batterycondition indicator or a voltmeter, as with astandard or low maintenance type battery.14 If testing the battery using a voltmeter,connect it across the battery and compare theresult with those given in the Specifications

under “charge condition”. The test is onlyaccurate if the battery has not been subject toany kind of charge for the previous six hours.If this is not the case switch on the headlightsfor 30 seconds then wait four to five minutesbefore testing the battery after switching offthe headlights. All other electrical componentsmust be switched off, so check that the doorsand boot lid are fully shut when making thetest. 15 If the voltage reading is less than the 12.2volts then the battery is discharged, whilst areading of 12.2 to 12.5 volts indicates apartially discharged condition.16 If the battery is to be charged, remove itfrom the vehicle and charge it as follows:

Charging17 In winter time when heavy demand isplaced upon the battery, such as whenstarting from cold and much electricalequipment is continually in use, it is a goodidea to have the battery occasionally fullycharged from an external source.

Conventional and low maintenancebatteries18 Charge the battery at a rate of 3.5 to 4amps and continue to charge the battery atthis rate until no further rise in specific gravityis noted over a four hour period.19 Alternatively, a trickle charger charging ata rate of 1.5 amps can be safely usedovernight.20 Specially rapid “boost” charges which areclaimed to restore the power of the battery in1 to 2 hours are not recommended as theycan cause serious damage to the batteryplates through overheating.21 While charging the battery, note that thetemperature of the electrolyte should neverexceed 37.8°C (100°F).

Maintenance-free batteries22 This battery type takes considerablylonger to fully recharge than the conventionaltype, the time taken being dependent on theextent of discharge, but it can take anythingup to three days.23 A constant voltage type charger isrequired and this set, when connected, to13.9 to 14.9 volts with a charger current below25 amps. Using this method the batteryshould be useable within three hours, giving avoltage reading of 12.5 volts, but this is for apartially discharged battery and, asmentioned, full charging can take consider-ably longer.24 If the battery is to be charged from a fullydischarged state (condition reading less than12.2 volts) have it recharged by your Forddealer or local automotive electrician as thecharge rate is higher and constant supervisionduring charging is necessary.

Starting and charging systems 5C•3

2.4 Battery retaining clamp

5C

Warning: The water must neverbe added to the sulphuric acidotherwise it will explode. Alwayspour the acid slowly onto the

water in a glass or plastic container.

4 Alternator - removal andrefitting 2

Removal1 Disconnect the battery and disconnect themulti-plug or leads from the rear of thealternator.2 Remove the head shield (where fitted). 3 Release the mounting and adjuster linkbolts, push the alternator in towards theengine and slip the drivebelt from the pulley.4 Unscrew and remove the mounting boltsand adjuster link bolt and withdraw thealternator from the engine.

Refitting5 Refit by reversing the removal operations,adjusting the drivebelt to the correct tension.6 Note that it is important to ensure that themounting bolt washers and spacers are fittedas shown (see illustration). If this is not doneit is possible to excessively strain or evenbreak the alternator mounting flanges whenthe bolts are tightened.7 The mountings should be tightened evenlyand progressively in the following order -adjuster bolt, front mounting, rear mounting.

5 Alternator drivebelt -removal, refitting andtensioning

21 A conventional “V” drivebelt is used to drivethe alternator, power being transmitted from apulley on the front end of the crankshaft.2 To remove a belt, slacken the alternatormounting bolts and the bolts on the adjusterlink, push the alternator in towards the engineand slip the belt from the pulleys (seeillustration).3 Fit the belt by slipping it over the pulley rimswhile the alternator is still loose on itsmountings. Never be tempted to remove or fita belt by prising it over a pulley withoutreleasing the alternator. The pulley, andpossibly the alternator, will be distorted ordamaged.4 To retension the belt, pull the alternatoraway from the engine until the belt is fairly tautand nip up the adjuster strap bolt. Check thatthe total deflection of the belt is as specifiedwhen tested on the longest belt run (seeillustration). A little trial and error may berequired to obtain the correct tension. If thebelt is too slack, it will slip and soon becomeglazed or burnt and the alternator will notperform correctly, with consequent lowbattery charge. If the belt is too tight, thebearings in the alternator will soon bedamaged.5 Do not lever against the body of thealternator to tension the belt, or damage mayoccur.

6 Alternator - testing 21 The following in-vehicle alternator tests canbe made irrespective of which type ofalternator is fitted provided a 10 to 20 voltvoltmeter, an ammeter (70 amp+) and a loadrheostat are available. Alternatively aproprietary multimeter can be used.2 Prior to undertaking any of the followingtests, first check that the drivebelt tension iscorrect and that the battery is well charged.

Wiring continuity check3 Detach the battery earth lead, thendisconnect the wiring multiplug connectorfrom the alternator.4 Reconnect the earth lead, switch theignition on and connect a voltmeter to a goodearth point. Now check the voltage reading oneach of the multi-plug terminals. A zeroreading indicates an open circuit in the wiringwhilst a battery voltage reading proves thewiring to be in good condition (seeillustration).

Alternator output check5 Connect up the voltmeter, ammeter andrheostat, as shown (see illustration).6 Switch the headlights on, also the heaterblower motor and heated rear window (wherefitted). Start the engine and keep it running at3000 rpm whilst varying the resistance toincrease the current loading. The rated outputshould be achieved without the voltagedropping below 13 volts. 7 Complete the check by disconnecting thetest instruments and switching off the ignition,headlights, blower motor and heated rearwindow.

Positive side voltage check8 Connect up the voltmeter as shown (seeillustration). Switch on the headlamps thenstart the engine and note the voltage drop.


5.2 Alternator adjusting strap bolt(arrowed)

6.5 Alternator output check

A AmmeterV VoltmeterR Rheostat (30 amps rating resistor)

6.4 Alternator charging circuit continuitycheck

A Wiring multi-plugB Voltmeter

5.4 Check drivebelt tension is correct

4.6 Alternator mounting components

A Large washerB Small washer (where fitted)C Mounting bracketD Alternator mounting flanges

Now run the engine at 3000 rpm. If the voltageshown is above 0.5 volt it is indicative of ahigh resistance in the positive side of thecharge circuit, and this will need to be locatedand rectified. Switch the ignition andheadlights off to complete.

Negative side voltage check9 Proceed as described in paragraph 8 butconnect the voltmeter as shown (seeillustration). A voltmeter reading in excess of0.25 volts is indicative of a high resistancefault in the negative side wiring.

Regulator control voltage check10 Connect up the voltmeter and ammeter asshown (see illustration) then start the engineand check the voltage reading.11 Increase the engine speed to 3000 rpm

and note the ammeter reading. This should fallto between 3 and 5 amps at which pointcheck the voltmeter which should readbetween 13.7 and 14.5 volts. Any readingsgiven which are not within these limits indicatea fault in the voltage control regulator and thismust be renewed.12 Switch the ignition off and detach the testequipment. Disconnect the battery earth leadand reconnect the alternator multi-plug.Reconnect the battery earth lead to complete.

7 Alternator brushes andregulator - renewal 2

1 With the alternator removed from the engine,clean the external surfaces free from dirt.

Bosch2 Remove the regulator screws from the rearcover and withdraw the regulator (seeillustration). Check the length of each brushand renew if less than the specified minimum(see illustration).3 To remove the brushes, unsolder the wiringconnectors and remove each brush with itsspring (see illustration).4 Refit by reversing the removal operations.

Lucas type B5 Remove the alternator rear cover.6 Extract the brush box retaining screws andwithdraw the brush assemblies from the brushbox (see illustration).7 If the length of the brushes is less than thespecified minimum, renew them. Refit byreversing the removal operations. 8 To remove the regulator, disconnect thewires from the unit and unscrew the retainingscrew. 9 Refit by reversing the removal operations,but check that the small plastic spacer andthe connecting link are correctly located.

Lucas type D 10 Proceed as described in paragraphs 5and 6 (see illustration).11 If the brushes are worn beyond theminimum length specified, disconnect thefield connector and renew the brushbox/regulator complete as the brushes are notindividually replaceable. 12 Refit in the reverse order to removal.


6.10 Alternator regulator control voltagecheck

7.6 Brush box retaining screws - Lucas type B alternator

7.10 Brush box retaining screws -Lucas type D alternator

7.3 Brush box components - Bosch alternator

A Brushes B Springs C Brush box

7.2b Compare the brush length with thatshown in the Specifications -

Bosch alternator

7.2a Withdrawing the regulator/brush box- Bosch alternator

6.9 Alternator charge circuit voltage dropcheck - negative side

6.8 Alternator charge circuit voltage dropcheck - positive side

5C

Motorola 13 Extract the two regulator securing screws,disconnect the two regulator leads andwithdraw the unit. 14 Extract the brush box retaining screw andpull and tilt the brush box from its location,taking care not to damage the brushes duringthe process (see illustrations).15 If the brushes are worn beyond thespecified length, unsolder the brushconnections. 16 Fit the new brushes by reversing theremoval operations.

Mitsubishi17 Hold the alternator shaft against rotationand unscrew the pulley unit. Take off thespring washer, pulley, fan, large spacer anddust seal.18 Scribe a line along the length of thealternator to facilitate reassembly of thehousings and stator.19 Unscrew the tie-bolts and remove thedrive end housing.20 Separate the rotor from the rear endhousing and the stator. Before this can bedone, the housing may have to be warmedusing a soldering iron or hot air gun (seeillustration).21 Check the brushes for wear. If they haveworn below the minimum specified length,unscrew the four bolts and remove therectifier and stator assembly from the rearhousing.22 Unsolder the stator connections from therectifier pack terminals. Renew the brush box(see illustration).23 Resolder the new rectifier/brush packleads and refit the pack and stator.24 Hold the brushes in the retracted statewith a piece of wire so that the brushes willpass over the slip rings (see illustration).25 Fit the rotor to the rear housing and thenwithdraw the temporary wire.26 Fit the drive end housing (scribed linealigned) and secure with the tie-bolts.27 Fit the dust seal, spacer, fan, pulley andspring washer. Tighten the pulley nut.

8 Starter motor - removal andrefitting 2

1 Disconnect the battery.2 Working from under the vehicle, disconnectthe main starter motor cable and the twowires from the starter solenoid (seeillustration).3 Unbolt the starter motor and withdraw itfrom its location. 4 Refit the starter motor by reversing theremoval procedure.

9 Starter motor - testing 21 Check that the battery is fully charged.

Solenoid check2 To test the solenoid, first disconnect thebattery negative lead and both leads from thesolenoid. Check the continuity of the solenoidwindings by connecting a test lamp (12V with 2to 3W bulb) between the starter spade terminaland the solenoid body (see illustration). Thelamp should light up.3 Now make the test circuit as shown (seeillustration), using a higher wattage (18 to 21W) bulb. Energise the solenoid by applying 12Vbetween the spade terminal and the starter


7.14a Brush box retaining screw -Motorola alternator

7.20 Heating alternator rear housing -Mitsubishi alternator

9.2 Starter motor solenoid winding check

A Battery terminalB Feed terminal

C Spade terminal8.2 Starter motor cable connections(arrowed)

7.24 Wire (A) for holding alternatorbrushes in retracted position -

Mitsubishi alternator

7.22 Alternator stator and brush boxconnections - Mitsubishi alternator

A Stator connectionsB Brush box-to-rectifier terminal

7.14b Brush box and brushes (A) -Motorola alternator

feed terminal. The solenoid should be heard tooperate and the test bulb should light up,indicating that the solenoid contacts haveclosed.

On load voltage check4 Connect a voltmeter between the batteryterminals. Disconnect the positive LT lead fromthe ignition coil and operate the starter. Thevoltmeter should indicate not less than 10.5V.5 Now connect the voltmeter between thestarter main terminal and the body of thestarter motor. Operate the starter, with the coilLT lead still disconnected. The reading on thevoltmeter should be no more than 1.0V lowerthan that indicated during the test describedin paragraph 4. If it is, check the battery-to-starter motor wiring.6 Connect the voltmeter between the batterypositive terminal and the starter motor mainfeed terminal. Operate the starter (with the LTcoil positive lead disconnected) for two orthree seconds and observe the meterreadings. A reading of 12V should drop to lessthan 1.0V. If the reading is higher, a highresistance is indicated (refer to paragraph 7).If the reading is lower, refer to paragraph 8.7 Connect the voltmeter between the twomain stud terminals of the starter solenoid.With the positive LT lead disconnected fromthe coil, operate the starter for two or threeseconds and note the meter readings. Batteryvoltage (12V) should be indicated first,followed by a voltage drop of less than 0.5V. Ifoutside this tolerance, a faulty switch or

connections may be the cause, or loose orcorroded terminals in the circuit.8 Connect a voltmeter between the batterynegative terminal and the starter motor maincasing. With the positive LT lead disconnectedfrom the coil, operate the starter for two orthree seconds. If the earth line is satisfactory,the reading should be less than 0.5V. If it is0.6V or more then there is a high resistance inthe earth return side of the circuit. This may bedue to a loose or corroded connection eitherat the battery or at the engine block.

10 Starter motor - brush renewal 2Bosch long frame and Cajavec1 With the starter motor removed from thevehicle and cleaned, grip the unit in a vicefitted with soft jaw protectors.2 Remove the two screws securing thecommutator end housing cap, then removethe cap and rubber seal (see illustration).3 Wipe any grease from the armature shaft,and remove the C-clip, or E-clip, asapplicable, and shims from the end of theshaft (see illustrations).4 Unscrew the two nuts and remove thewashers, or remove the securing screws (asapplicable), then lift off the commutator endhousing (see illustrations).5 Carefully prise the thrust retaining springsfrom their locations, then slide the brushesfrom the brush plate.

6 If the brushes have worn to less than thespecified minimum, renew them as a set. Torenew the brushes, cut the leads at theirmidpoint and make a good soldered jointwhen connecting the new brushes.7 The commutator face should be clean andfree from burnt spots. Where necessary,burnish with fine glass paper (not emery) andwipe with a fuel-moistened cloth. 8 On starter motors where the commutatorend housing is secured by nuts and washers,position the brush plate over the end of thearmature, with the cut-outs in the brush platealigned with the end housing securing studs.9 On starter motors where the commutatorend housing is secured by screws, positionthe brush plate over the end of the armaturewith the cut-outs in the brush plate alignedwith the loops in the field windings (seeillustration). The brush plate will be positivelylocated when the commutator end housingscrews are fitted.


10.3a Remove the C-clip . . .

10.9 Align the cut-outs in the brush plate(B) with the loops in the field windings (A)

10.4a Remove the commutator endhousing securing screws

10.4b Commutator end housing removedto expose brush plate

10.3b . . . and shims from the end of thearmature shaft

10.2 Remove the commutator end housingcap securing screws

9.3 Starter motor solenoid continuitycheck

A Battery terminalB Feed terminal

C Spade terminal

5C

10 Position the brushes in their respectivelocations in the brush plate, and fit the brushretaining springs.11 Guide the commutator end housing intoposition, at the same time sliding the rubberinsulator into the cut-out in the housing.Secure the commutator end housing with thenuts and washers or screws, as applicable.12 Fit sufficient shims to the end of thearmature shaft to eliminate endfloat when theC-clip or E-clip, as applicable is fitted, then fitthe clip. 13 Fit the armature shaft bearing seal to thecommutator end housing, then apply a littlelithium-based grease to the end of thearmature shaft and refit the end housing cap,securing with the two screws.

Bosch short frame14 To remove and refit the brush assembly,proceed as for the Bosch long frame exceptfor the following (see illustration).15 Release the brush holders complete withbrushes by pushing the brush holderstowards the commutator and unclipping themfrom the brush plate. Withdraw the brushplate (see illustration).16 To renew the brushes, the leads must beunsoldered from the terminals on the brushplate, and the leads of the new brushes mustbe soldered to the terminals.17 To refit the brush assembly, position thebrush plate over the end of the armature shaft,then assemble the brush holders, brushes andsprings, ensuring that the brush holder clipsare securely located. The brush plate will bepositively located when the commutator endhousing screws are fitted.

LucasNote: New star clips must be obtained for thearmature shaft on reassembly.18 With the starter motor removed from thevehicle and cleaned, grip the unit in a vicefitted with soft jaw protectors.19 Remove the plastic cap from the end ofthe armature shaft, then remove the star clipfrom the end of the shaft, using a chisel at anangle of 45° to the shaft to distort the prongsof the clip until it can be removed (seeillustration).20 Unscrew the two securing nuts andremove the connector cable from the mainfeed terminal.

21 Extract the two commutator end platesecuring screws, and carefully tap the endplate to free it. Lift the end plate clear to allowaccess to the two field brushes. Disconnectthe two field brushes from the brush box toallow complete removal of the commutatorend plate. Take care not to damage thegasket as the end plate is removed.22 Remove the nut, washer and insulatorfrom the main terminal stud on thecommutator end plate, then push the studand the second insulator through the endplate and unhook the brushes.23 To remove the brush box, drill out therivets securing the brush box to the end plate,then remove the brush box and gasket.24 If the brushes have worn to less than thespecified minimum, renew them as a set. Torenew the brushes, cut the leads at theirmidpoint and make a good soldered jointwhen connecting the new brushes.25 The commutator face should be clean andfree from burnt spots. Where necessary,burnish with fine glass paper (not emery) andwipe with a fuel-moistened cloth. 26 Commence reassembly by positioning thebrush box gasket on the commutator endplate, then position the brush box on thegasket and rivet the brush box to the endplate. Use a new gasket if necessary. 27 Fit the main terminal stud and insulator tothe commutator end plate, then secure thestud with the remaining insulator, washer andnut. Fit the two brushes which are attached tothe terminal stud into their respectivelocations in the brush box.28 Fit the two field brushes into theirlocations in the brush box, then position thecommutator end plate on the yoke and fit thetwo securing screws.29 Fit a new star clip to the end of thearmature shaft, ensuring that the clip ispressed home firmly to eliminate any endfloatin the armature (see illustration). Fit theplastic cap over the end of the armature shaft.


10.14 Commutator end housingcomponents - Bosch short frame motor

A Securing screwsB Housing capC Spanner

D ShimsE C-clipF Armature shaft

10.15 Brush plate removal - Bosch short frame motor

A Field brushesB Terminal brushes

C Brush plateD Brush holders

10.19 Brush assembly - Lucas starter motor

1 Plastic cap2 Star clip3 Commutator end plate

securing screw

4 Commutator end plate5 Brush box6 Yoke7 Pole securing screw

8 Solenoid connector link9 Pole shoe10 Field coils

Nippondenso30 With the starter motor removed from thevehicle and cleaned, grip the unit in a vicefitted with soft jaw protectors.31 Unscrew the retaining nut and washer anddisconnect the wiring from the terminal on thesolenoid.

32 Remove the two screws securing thecommutator end housing cap and remove thecap (see illustration).33 Remove the C-clip from the groove in thearmature shaft, and remove the spring.34 Unscrew the two bolts and washers, andwithdraw the commutator end housing.35 Withdraw the two field brushes from thebrush plate, then remove the brush plate.36 If the brushes have worn to less than thespecified minimum, renew them as a set. Torenew the brushes, cut the leads at theirmidpoint and make a good soldered jointwhen connecting the new brushes.37 The commutator face should be clean andfree from burnt spots. Where necessary,burnish with fine glass paper (not emery) andwipe with a fuel-moistened cloth. 38 Position the brush plate over the end ofthe armature, aligning the cut-outs in thebrush plate with the loops in the fieldwindings. The brush plate will be positivelylocated when the commutator end housingbolts are fitted.

39 Fit the brushes to their locations in thebrush plate, and retain with the springs.40 Fit the commutator end housing andsecure with the two bolts and washers.41 Fit the spring and the C-clip to the end ofthe armature shaft, then smear the end of theshaft with a little lithium-based grease, andrefit the commutator end housing cap,securing with the two screws.42 Reconnect the wiring to the solenoidterminal and fit the washer and retaining nut.


10.32 Brush assembly - Nippondenso starter motor

1 Yoke2 Solenoid connecting link3 Pole shoe4 Rubber grommet5 Brush

6 Brush spring7 Brush plate8 Commutator end housing9 Bush10 Spring

11 C-clip12 Commutator end housing cap13 Commutator end housing securing

bolt

10.29 Using a soft faced hammer andsocket to fit a new star clip to the end ofthe armature shaft - Lucas starter motor

5C

5C•10 Notes

9

System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydraulic, dual-circuit, discs at front (ventilated on XR2), drums atrear. Servo assistance. Mechanical handbrake to rear wheels only

Front (disc) brakesCaliper type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Single piston, sliding typeDisc diameter (outer):

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 mmXR2 only . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239 mm

Disc thickness (new):Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 mmXR2 only . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 mm

Minimum allowable disc thickness:Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.7 mmXR2 only . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18.5 mm

Allowable disc run-out . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 mmMinimum allowable pad thickness:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 mmXR2 only . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 mm

Rear (drum) brakesDrum diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177.8 mmXR2 only . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177.8 mm

Shoe width:Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30.0 mmXR2 only . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38.0 mm

Wheel cylinder diameter:Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17.5 mmXR2 only . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19.0 mm

Minimum allowable friction material thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftDisc caliper bracket to suspension unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 41Caliper piston housing to bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17Servo mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17Master cylinder-to-servo retaining nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 18Large bracket to bulkhead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17Carrier plate to axle housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17Pressure control valve bracket (to chassis) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17Hydraulic unions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 10Bleed valves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Chapter 9Braking system

Brake hydraulic pipes - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11Brake pressure control valve - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .10Brake warning lamps - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16Front brake disc - examination, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .5Front caliper piston assembly - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . .4Front disc pads - inspection, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1Handbrake - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Handbrake cables - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14Handbrake lever - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15Hydraulic system - bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2Master cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9Rear brake drum - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Rear brake linings - inspection, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .6Rear wheel cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .7Vacuum servo unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

9•1

Specifications

Contents







54321


General informationThe braking system is of four-wheeled

hydraulic type, with discs at the front anddrums at the rear. The hydraulic system is ofdual-circuit type, each circuit controls onefront brake and one rear brake linkeddiagonally.

The front brake calipers are of single piston,sliding piston housing type. The rear brakesare of leading and trailing shoe design with aself adjusting mechanism. To compensate forthe greater lining of wear of the leading shoe,its friction lining is thicker than that on thetrailing shoe.

The master cylinder incorporates areservoir cap which has a fluid level switchconnected to a warning lamp on theinstrument panel. A vacuum servo is standardon certain models. When fitted to RHDversions, because of the location of theservo/master cylinder on the left-hand side ofthe engine compartment, the brake pedal isoperated through a transverse rod on theengine compartment rear bulkhead.

A brake pressure regulating control valve isfitted into the hydraulic circuit to prevent rearwheel locking under conditions of heavybraking.

The floor-mounted handbrake control leveroperates through cables to the rear wheelsonly.

Precautions

2 Hydraulic system - bleeding 2Note: Refer to Warning 1 in Section 1 beforestarting work.1 When a maintenance operation has onlyaffected one circuit of the hydraulic system,then bleeding will normally only be required tothat circuit (front and rear diagonallyopposite). If the master cylinder or thepressure regulating valve have beendisconnected and reconnected, then thecomplete system must be bled.2 One of three methods can be used to bleedthe system.

Bleeding - two-man method3 Gather together a clean jar and a length ofrubber or plastic bleed tubing which will fit thebleed screw tightly. The help of an assistantwill be required.4 Take great care not to spill onto thepaintwork as it will act as a paint stripper. Ifany is spilled, wash it off at once with coldwater.5 Clean around the bleed screw on the frontright-hand caliper and attach the bleed tubeto the screw (see illustration).6 Check that the master cylinder reservoir istopped up and then destroy the vacuum in thebrake servo (where fitted) by giving severalapplications of the brake foot pedal.7 Immerse the open end of the bleed tube inthe jar, which should contain 50 to 76 mm ofhydraulic fluid. The jar should be positionedabout 300 mm above the bleed nipple toprevent any possibility of air entering thesystem down the threads of the bleed screwwhen it is slackened.8 Open the bleed screw half a turn and haveyour assistant depress the brake pedal slowlyto the floor and then quickly remove his footto allow the pedal to return unimpeded.Tighten the bleed screw at the end of eachdownstroke to prevent expelled air and fluidbeing drawn back into the system.9 Observe the submerged end of the tube inthe jar. When air bubbles cease to appear,fully tighten the bleed screw when the pedal isbeing held down by your assistant.10 Top-up the fluid reservoir. It must be kepttopped up throughout the bleeding operations.If the connecting holes in the master cylinderare exposed at any time due to low fluid level,then air will be drawn into the system and workwill have to start all over again.11 Repeat the operations on the left-handrear brake (see illustration), the left-handfront and the right-hand rear brake in thatorder (assuming that the whole system isbeing bled).12 On completion, remove the bleed tube.Discard the fluid which has been bled fromthe system unless it is required for bleed jarpurposes, never use it for filling the system.

Bleeding - with one-way valve13 There are a number of one-man brakebleeding kits currently available from motoraccessory shops. It is recommended that oneof these kits should be used wheneverpossible as they greatly simplify the bleedingoperation and also reduce the risk of expelledair or fluid being drawn back into the system.14 Connect the outlet tube of the bleederdevice to the bleed screw and then open thescrew half a turn. Depress the brake pedal tothe floor and slowly release it. The one-wayvalve in the device will prevent expelled airfrom returning to the system at the completionof each stroke. Repeat this operation untilclean hydraulic fluid, free from air bubbles,can be seen coming through the tube. Tightenthe bleed screw and remove the tube.15 Repeat the procedure on the remainingbleed nipples in the order described inparagraph 11. Remember to keep the mastercylinder reservoir full.

Bleeding - with pressurebleeding kit16 These are available from motor accessoryshops and are usually operated by airpressure from the spare tyre.17 By connecting a pressurised container tothe master cylinder fluid reservoir, bleeding isthen carried out by simply opening each bleedscrew in turn and allowing the fluid to run out,rather like turning on a tap, until no air bubblesare visible in the fluid being expelled.

9•2 Braking system

2.5 Bleed tube attached to bleed screw onfront brake

2.11 Rear brake bleed screw andprotective cap

Warning 1: Hydraulic fluid ispoisonous; wash offimmediately and thoroughly inthe case of skin contact and

seek immediate medical advice if any fluidis swallowed or gets into the eyes. Certaintypes of hydraulic fluid are inflammableand may ignite when allowed into contactwith hot components; when servicing anyhydraulic system it is safest to assumethat the fluid is inflammable and to takeprecautions against the risk of fire asthough it is petrol that is being handled.Hydraulic fluid is also an effective paintstripper and will attack plastics; if any isspilt, it should be washed off immediatelyusing copious quantities of fresh water.Finally, it is hygroscopic (it absorbsmoisture from the air) - old fluid may becontaminated and unfit for further use.When topping-up or renewing the fluid,always use the recommended type andensure that it comes from a freshly-opened sealed container.Warning 2: When working on the brakecomponents, take care not to dispersebrake dust into the air, or to inhale it,since it may contain asbestos which isinjurious to health.

18 Using this system, the large reserve offluid provides a safeguard against air beingdrawn into the master cylinder during thebleeding operations.19 This method is particularly effective whenbleeding “difficult” systems or when bleedingthe entire system of routine fluid renewal.

All systems20 On completion of bleeding, top-up thefluid level to the MAX mark on the reservoir.Check the feel of the brake pedal, whichshould be firm and free from any“sponginess” which would indicate air stillbeing present in the system.

3 Front disc pads - inspection,removal and refitting 3

Note: Refer to Warning 2 in Section 1 beforestarting work.

Inspection1 At the intervals specified in “RoutineMaintenance”, place a mirror between theroadwheel and the caliper and check thethickness of the friction material of the discpads. If the material has worn down to 1.5 mmor less, the pads must be renewed as an axleset (four pads).

Removal2 Slacken the roadwheel bolts, raise the frontof the vehicle, support with safety stands (see“Jacking and vehicle support”) and removethe roadwheel(s).3 Using a screwdriver as shown, prise freethe retaining clip from the caliper (seeillustration).4 Using a 7 mm Allen key, unscrew the boltsuntil they can be withdrawn from the caliperanchor brackets (see illustration).5 Withdraw the piston housing and tie it upwith a length of wire to prevent strain on theflexible hose (see illustration).

6 Withdraw the inboard pad from the pistonhousing: the pad being secured to the pistonby means of a spider-type spring clip. 7 Withdraw the outer pad which is secured inposition by a piece of double-sided adhesivetape.

Refitting8 Clean away all residual dust or dirt, takingcare not to inhale the dust, as beingasbestos based it is injurious to health. 9 Using a piece of flat wood, a tyre lever orsimilar, push the piston squarely into its bore.This is necessary in order to accommodatethe new thicker pads when they are fitted.10 Depressing the piston will cause the fluidlevel in the master cylinder reservoir to rise, soanticipate this by syphoning out some fluidusing an old hydrometer or poultry baster.Take care not to drip hydraulic fluid onto thepaintwork, it acts as an effective paintstripper. 11 Commence reassembly by fitting theinboard pad into the piston housing. Makesure that the spring clip on the back of thepad fits into the piston (see illustration).12 Peel back the protective paper coveringfrom the adhesive surface of the newoutboard pad and locate it in the jaws of thecaliper anchor bracket.13 Locate the caliper piston housing andscrew in the Allen bolts to the specifiedtorque.14 Fit the retaining clip (see illustration).15 Repeat the operations on the oppositebrake.

16 Apply the footbrake hard several times toposition the pads against the disc and thencheck and top-up the fluid in the mastercylinder reservoir.17 Fit the roadwheel(s) and lower the vehicle.18 Avoid heavy braking (if possible) for thefirst hundred miles or so when new pads havebeen fitted. This is to allow them to bed in andreach full efficiency.

4 Front caliper pistonassembly - removal, overhauland refitting

3

Removal1 Proceed as described in paragraphs 2 to 8in the previous Section. 2 Disconnect the brake flexible hose from thecaliper. This can be carried out in one of twoways. Either disconnect the flexible hose fromthe rigid hydraulic pipeline at the supportbracket by unscrewing the union, or, once thecaliper is detached, hold the end fitting of thehose in an open-ended spanner and unscrewthe caliper from the hose. Do not allow thehose to distort an excessive amount.

Braking system 9•3

3.4 Undo the caliper anchor bracket bolts

3.14 Retaining clip refitted3.11 Inboard pad assembly to piston3.5 Remove the caliper piston housing

3.3 Prise free the retaining clip

9

Warning: Always support thevehicle on axle stands beforeremoving the roadwheel toservice brake assemblies.

Warning: Brake hydraulic fluidmay be under considerablepressure in a pipeline, take carenot to allow hydraulic fluid to

spray into the face or eyes whenloosening a connection.Warning: Never refit old seals whenreassembling brake system components.

Overhaul3 Brush away all external dirt and pull off thepiston dust-excluding cover (see illustration).4 Apply air pressure to the fluid inlet hole andeject the piston. Only low air pressure isneeded for this, such as is produced by afoot-operated tyre pump (see illustration).5 Using a suitable hooked instrument, pickout the piston seal from the groove in thecylinder bore. Do not scratch the surface ofthe bore.6 Examine the surfaces of the piston and thecylinder bore. If they are scored or showevidence of metal-to-metal rubbing, then anew piston housing will be required. Wherethe components are in good condition,discard the seal and obtain a repair kit.7 Wash the internal components in cleanbrake hydraulic fluid or methylated spirit only,nothing else.8 Using the fingers, manipulate the new sealinto its groove in the cylinder bore.9 Dip the piston in clean hydraulic fluid andinsert it squarely into its bore.10 Connect the rubber dust excluderbetween the piston and the piston housingand then depress the piston fully.

Refitting11 Refit the caliper by reversing the removaloperations.12 When reconnecting the brake hose checkthat it is fitted and secured so that it is notdistorted and will not interfere with anyadjacent steering or suspension components.13 Bleed the hydraulic circuit, then refit theroadwheel (s) and lower the vehicle.14 If new pads have been fitted, heavybraking should be avoided where possible forthe first hundred miles or so to allow them tobed in and reach full efficiency.

5 Front brake disc -examination, removal andrefitting

3Examination1 Raise the front of the vehicle and removethe roadwheel.2 Examine the surface of the disc. If it isdeeply grooved or scored or if any smallcracks are evident, it must either be refinishedor renewed. Any refinishing must not reducethe thickness of the disc to below thespecified minimum. Light scoring on a brakedisc is normal and should be ignored.3 If disc distortion is suspected, the disc can bechecked for run-out using a dial gauge or feelerblades located between its face and a fixedpoint as the disc is rotated (see illustration).

4 Where run-out exceeds the specified figure,renew the disc.

Removal5 To remove a disc, unbolt the caliper,withdraw it and tie it up to the suspensionstrut to avoid strain on the flexible hose.6 Extract the small disc retaining screw andpull the disc from the hub.

Refitting7 If a new disc is being installed, clean itssurfaces free from preservative before refittingthe caliper. It will also be necessary todepress the piston and inner brake pad asmall amount to accommodate the newthicker disc when assembling.8 Refit the disc, its retaining screw, thecaliper and the roadwheel and lower thevehicle to the floor.


4.3 Caliper and piston components

A Piston coverB Seal

C PistonD Housing

4.4 Caliper piston removal method with compressed air. Notewooden block fitted to avoid damaging the piston

5.3 Checking the brake disc run-out using a dial gauge

6 Rear brake linings -inspection, removal andrefitting

3Inspection1 Inspection of the shoe linings can becarried out at the specified intervals by prisingout the small inspection plug from the brakebackplate and observing the linings throughthe hole using a mirror.2 A minimum thickness of friction materialmust always be observed on the shoes; if it isworn down to this level, renew the shoes.3 Do not attempt to re-line shoes yourself,but always obtain factory re-lined shoes.4 Renew the shoes in an axle set (four shoes),even if only one is worn to the minimum.

Removal5 Chock the front wheels. Slacken theroadwheel bolts, raise the rear of the vehicleand support it securely (see “Jacking andvehicle support”). Remove the roadwheels.6 Release the handbrake fully. 7 Tap off the hub dust cap, remove the splitpin, nut lock, nut and thrustwasher (seeillustrations). 8 Pull the hub/drum towards you and thenpush it back enough to be able to take theouter bearing from the spindle.9 Remove the hub/drum (see illustration)and brush out any dust taking care not toinhale it.10 Remove the shoe hold-down spring fromthe leading shoe (see illustration). Do this bygripping the dished washer with a pair ofpliers, depressing it and turning it through 90°.Remove the washer, spring and the hold-down post.11 Note the locations of the leading andtrailing shoes and also the upper and lowerreturn springs. Unhook the brake shoes fromthe lower anchor plate and detach the lowerreturn spring.12 Detach the brake shoes from the wheelcylinder, manoeuvre them away from thebackplate and disengage the handbrake cablefrom the relay arm (see illustration).13 The brake pull-off springs and adjusterstrut can then be disconnected at the top endof the brake shoes. Again note orientation forrefitting.14 To detach the large ratchet andhandbrake lever, remove the circlips.

Refitting15 Prior to reassembly, wipe the carrier(back) plate clean and apply a light coating ofbrake grease (Thermopaul 1) to the brakeshoe contact points indicated (seeillustration). 16 Refit the large ratchet to the leading brakeshoe and the handbrake relay lever to thetrailing brake shoe.17 Relocate the pull-off springs into positionbetween the top end of the leading andtrailing shoe (as noted during removal).18 Apply a small amount of brake grease tothe large ratchet and handbrake relay levercontact surfaces, then reconnect thehandbrake cable to the relay lever on thetrailing shoe. Do not get any brake greaseonto the brake linings.19 Refit the brake shoes into position, prisingopen the leading edges to fit on the wheelcylinder at the top. Support in this position,relocate the lower brake pull-off spring thenprise open the shoes at the bottom (trailingedges) and engage on the lower anchor plate(see illustrations).20 Centralise the shoes, by tapping themwith the hand if necessary, then relocate theshoe hold-down pin, spring and dishedwasher. Depress and twist the washersthrough 90° to secure (see illustration).21 Before refitting the brake drum, check thatthe shoes are centralised, and release theautomatic adjuster to fully contract the shoes.


6.7c . . . the nut and thrustwasher

6.15 Lightly lubricate the brake shoecontact points (arrowed)

6.12 Disconnecting the handbrake cablefrom the relay arm

6.10 Brake hold-down spring and retainerremoval

6.9 Withdrawing the brake drum

6.7b . . . the split pin and nut lock . . .6.7a Remove the dust cap . . .

9

22 Lubricate the inboard bearing and oil seallips in the brake drum/hub and fit thedrum/hub onto the stub axle; taking care notto damage the oil seal lips.23 Fit the outboard bearing and thrustwasher(lubricated with suitable wheel bearing grease)and screw the retaining nut into position.24 Tightening the nut also sets the wheelbearing adjustment and it is thereforeimportant that the correct procedure isfollowed. Refer to the information given inChapter 10 on adjustment of the rear hubbearings.25 With the wheel bearing adjustmentcompleted and the nut retainer and split pin inposition, refit the dust cap.

26 Depress the brake pedal hard severaltimes to actuate the self-adjusting mechanismand to bring the shoes up close to the drum.27 Refit the roadwheel and lower the vehicleto the floor.

7 Rear wheel cylinder -removal, overhaul and refitting 3

Removal1 Remove the brake drum.2 Disconnect the fluid pipeline from the wheelcylinder and cap the end of the pipe toprevent loss of fluid. A bleed screw rubberdust cap is useful for this.3 Unscrew the two bolts which hold thewheel cylinder to the brake backplate (seeillustration).4 To avoid removing the brake shoes whenwithdrawing the wheel cylinder, prise theshoes away from the cylinder (at the top) sothat the automatic adjuster holds them clearof it. The cylinder can then be withdrawn (seeillustration).

Overhaul5 Clean away external dirt and then pull offthe dust-excluding covers from the cylinderunit (see illustration).

6 The pistons will probably shake out. If theydo not, apply air pressure (from a tyre pump)at the fluid inlet hole to eject them.7 Examine the surfaces of the pistons and thecylinder bores for scoring or metal-to-metalrubbing areas. If evident, renew the completecylinder assembly.8 Where the components are in goodcondition, discard the rubber seals and dustexcluders and obtain a repair kit.9 Any cleaning should be done usinghydraulic fluid or methylated spirit - nothingelse.10 Reassemble by dipping the first piston inclean hydraulic fluid and inserting it into thecylinder. Fit a dust excluder to it.11 From the opposite end of the cylinderbody, insert a new seal, spring, a second newseal, the second piston and the remainingdust excluder. Use only the fingers tomanipulate the seals into position and makequite sure that the lips of the seals are thecorrect way round.

Refitting12 Refit the cylinder to the backplate andsecure with the two bolts and lockwashers.13 Remove the plug and reconnect thehydraulic fluid pipe, taking care not to cross-thread the connection. Do not overtighten theunion, but tighten it sufficiently to seal it. Forthe torque setting refer to Specifications.


6.19a Brake shoe assembly at the top 6.20 Rear brake shoes fully assembled

7.5 Wheel cylinder components

A SpringB Bleed nippleC Retaining bolts

D LockwasherE Piston housingF Piston seal

G PistonH Dust coverJ Gaiter springs

7.4 Rear wheel cylinder removal (brake shoes expanded indirection of arrows)

7.3 Rear wheel cylinder retaining bolts(arrowed)

6.19b Brake shoe assembly at the bottom

14 Relocate the brake shoes against thecylinder pistons by releasing the automaticadjuster.15 Refit the brake drum and hub unit. Bleedthe hydraulic circuit on completion.

8 Rear brake drum - inspectionand renewal 2

1 Whenever a brake drum is removed, brushout dust from it, taking care not to inhale it asit contains asbestos which is injurious to health.2 Examine the internal friction surface of thedrum. If deeply scored, or so worn that thedrum has become pocketed to the width ofthe shoes, then the drums must be renewed.3 Regrinding is not recommended as theinternal diameter will no longer be compatiblewith the shoe lining contact diameter.4 If renewing the brake drum it is alsoadvisable to renew the hub bearings and inneroil seal rather than transferring the old. Theseal will need renewal in any case.

9 Master cylinder - removal,overhaul and refitting 3

Removal1 Syphon out as much fluid as possible fromthe master cylinder reservoir using an oldbattery hydrometer or a poultry baster. Do notdrip the fluid onto the paintwork or it will actas an effective paint stripper.

2 Disconnect the pipelines from the mastercylinder by unscrewing the unions (seeillustration).3 Disconnect the leads from the level warningswitch in the reservoir cap. Remove the cap.4 On models not fitted with a brake servounit, unclip and remove the trim panelbeneath the facia on the driver’s side to giveaccess to the brake pedal. Extract the brakepedal-to-pushrod clevis pin retaining clip andwithdraw the pin. 5 Unbolt and remove the master cylinder. Onnon-servo models, remove the cylinder fromthe bulkhead whilst, on servo equippedmodels, the master cylinder is removed fromthe servo unit.

Overhaul

1.4 litre and XR2 models from early19866 From the beginning of 1986, all XR2 modelsand 1.4 litre models are fitted with a brakemaster cylinder of a new design. The newmaster cylinder is identifiable by its small sizeand its smooth cylinder body appearance(see illustration).7 The overhaul procedure is as follows:8 With the master cylinder removed from thecar, drain the remaining brake fluid from thereservoir, then remove the reservoir from thecylinder body.9 Using a screwdriver, lever off the primarypiston fluid housing (see illustration) andwithdraw the fluid housing and primary pistonassembly from the master cylinder. Beprepared for some fluid spillage during thisoperation.

10 Separate the primary piston from the fluidhousing and remove the fluid housing seal.11 Tap the master cylinder on a block ofwood to eject the secondary piston, thenremove the secondary piston assembly fromthe master cylinder.12 Prise off the fluid housing retaining ringand remove the O-ring seal from the cylinderbody.13 Extract the two reservoir seals from themaster cylinder ports.14 Carefully remove the two secondarypiston return springs, the seal support ring,seal protecting ring and the fluid seals fromeach end of the piston.15 Examine the cylinder bore for signs ofscoring or wear ridges. If evident renew themaster cylinder. If the cylinder appearssatisfactory, obtain a repair kit which willcontain new secondary piston and cylinderbody seals and a complete new primarypiston assembly.16 Lubricate all the seals, the cylinder boreand the pistons with clean brake fluid, thenreassemble as follows.17 Refit the seals, support ring, protectingring and springs to the secondary piston, thencarefully insert the assembled piston into themaster cylinder bore.18 Fit the two new reservoir seals to thecylinder ports.19 Fit a new seal to the fluid housing and fitthe primary piston to the housing.20 Fit a new O-ring to the end of the cylinderbody, followed by the fluid housing retainingring.


9.9 Levering off the primary piston fluidhousing

9.6 Exploded view of master cylinder - XR2 and 1.4 litre models, early 1986 on

A Secondary piston sealsB Secondary pistonC Protecting ringD Seal support ringE Return springs

F Retaining ringG O-ring sealH Reservoir sealsJ Primary piston

K Support ringL Cap sealM Primary piston fluid

housing

9.2 Master cylinder and hydraulic pipeconnections

9

21 Carefully assemble the primary piston andfluid housing to the master cylinder, pushingthe piston and housing in until the fluidhousing is flush with the cylinder mountingflange.22 Refit the master cylinder reservoir.

All other models23 To overhaul the master cylinder fitted tothese models, first clean away external dirtand then detach the fluid reservoir by tilting itsideways and gently pulling. Remove the tworubber seals. 24 Secure the master cylinder carefully in avice fitted with jaw protectors. 25 Pull the dust excluder back from aroundthe pushrod and using circlip pliers, extractthe circlip which is now exposed. 26 Remove the pushrod, dust excluder andwasher. 27 Withdraw the primary piston assembly,which will already have been partially ejected(see illustration). 28 Using a small diameter rod, insert it intothe end of the cylinder and push thesecondary piston in so that the locking pincan be extracted (see illustration).29 Tap the end of the master cylinder on ablock of wood and eject the secondary pistonassembly.30 Examine the pistons and cylinder boresurfaces for scoring or signs of metal-to-metalrubbing. If evident, renew the cylindercomplete.31 The primary piston unit cannot bedismantled and must be renewed as a unit.32 Prise free and remove the secondarypiston seals, noting their orientation. Onceremoved the seals must be discarded and arepair kit obtained for their renewal.33 Cleaning of components should be donein brake hydraulic fluid or methylated spiritonly - nothing else.34 Using the new seals from the repair kit,assemble the secondary piston, making surethat the seal lips are the correct way round, asnoted during dismantling.35 Dip the piston assemblies in cleanhydraulic fluid and fit them to the cylinder bore.36 Fit the pushrod complete with new dustexcluder and secure with a new circlip.37 Engage the dust excluder with the mastercylinder.

38 Depress the pushrod and locate thesecondary piston lockpin.39 Locate the two rubber seals and push thefluid reservoir into position.40 It is recommended that a small quantity offluid is now poured into the reservoir and thepushrod operated several times to prime it.

Refitting41 Refit the master cylinder by reversing theremoval operations.42 Do not overtighten the hydraulic line unionsand take care that they are clean and not cross-threaded when reconnecting. Refer to the spec-ifications for the torque wrench setting.43 Bleed the complete hydraulic system oncompletion of the work.

10 Brake pressure control valve- removal and refitting 3

Removal1 The brake pressure control valve assemblyis located towards the rear of the vehicle andmounted to the chassis on the right-handside. The assembly consists of a pair ofcontrol valve cylinders mounted to a commonbracket. One valve controls the pressure tothe right-hand rear brake, the other to the left-hand rear brake (see illustration).2 The valves are removed as a pair. First raiseand support the vehicle at the rear usingsafety stands (see “Jacking and vehiclesupport”). Chock the front wheels.

3 Clean the valves and connectionsexternally, then unscrew the hydraulic lineunions from the valves. Plug the disconnectedlines to prevent excessive fluid leakage andthe ingress of dirt. 4 Unscrew and remove the valve mountingbracket bolts and withdraw the valveassembly (see illustration). 5 Each valve is secured to the bracket bymeans of a clip which can be prised free torelease the valve from the bracket.

Refitting6 Refitting is the reversal of the removalprocedure. Check that the hydraulic lineconnections are clean before reconnecting,and take care not to cross-thread the unions.7 Before lowering the vehicle at the rear,bleed the hydraulic system.

11 Brake hydraulic pipes -removal and refitting 2

Removal1 Always disconnect a flexible hose byprising out the spring anchor clip from thesupport bracket (see illustration) and then,using two close-fitting spanners, disconnectthe rigid line from the flexible hose.2 Once disconnected from the rigid pipe, theflexible hose may be unscrewed from thecaliper or wheel cylinder.


9.27 Master cylinder primary (A) andsecondary (B) piston assemblies

10.1 Brake pressure control valve

A Right-hand rear brake circuit valveB Left-hand rear brake circuit valve

11.1 Flexible-to-rigid brake pipeconnection; spring anchor clip (arrowed)

10.4 Brake pressure control valvesecuring bolts (arrowed)

9.28 Master cylinder secondary pistonstop pin

Refitting3 When reconnecting pipeline or hosefittings, remember that all union threads are tometric sizes. No copper washers are used atunions and the seal is made at the swagedend of the pipe, so do not try to wind a unionin if it is tight yet still stands proud of thesurface into which it is screwed.4 A flexible hose must never be installedtwisted, but a slight “set” is permissible to giveit clearance from an adjacent component. Dothis by turning the hose slightly beforeinserting the bracket spring clip.

12 Vacuum servo unit - removaland refitting 3

Removal1 Using a suitable screwdriver as a lever,prise free the vacuum servo pipe connectorfrom the servo unit (see illustration).2 Remove the master cylinder.3 Unscrew and remove the four servo unit-to-mounting bracket retaining nuts.4 Extract the spring clip from the connectingrod clevis pin using a pair of long-nosed pliers(see illustration). Withdraw the clevis pin andremove the servo unit from the mountingbracket.

5 The servo unit cannot be repaired and ifdefective must therefore be renewed.

Refitting6 Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure. Bleed the hydraulic system.7 On completion, check the operation of thebrake stop-light switch and, if necessary,readjust.

13 Handbrake - adjustment 2Refer to Chapter 1, Section 19.

14 Handbrake cables - renewal 3Pre September 1985 models1 Chock the front wheels, then fully releasethe handbrake.2 Raise and support the vehicle at the rearwith safety stands (see “Jacking and vehiclesupport”).

Primary cable3 Extract the spring clip and clevis pin anddisconnect the primary cable from theequaliser (see illustration).


12.4 Clevis pin removal using long-nosedpliers

12.1 Vacuum servo pipe removal

9

14.3 Handbrake system layout

A Cable guideB Adjuster

C Carrier (back) plate plungerD Primary cable

E EqualiserF Secondary cables

4 Working inside the vehicle, disconnect thecable from the handbrake control lever, againby removal of clip and pin. Drift out the cableguide to the rear and withdraw the cablethrough the floorpan.5 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Adjust thehandbrake if necessary.

Secondary cable6 Remove the rear roadwheel each side thenremove the brake drums. Disengage thehandbrake secondary cable from the rearbrake assembly and pass through the brakebackplate, having released the retaining clip(see illustration). 7 Extract the circlip and remove the clevis pinfrom the cable equaliser unit.8 Disengage and remove the secondarycable from the body bracket clips and unhookit from the body supports. The cable can thenbe removed from under the vehicle (seeillustration).9 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Greasethe cable groove in the equaliser and alsoeach side of the outer cable location clip (seeillustration). Adjust the handbrake oncompletion.

Models from September 198510 Proceed as above, noting that sinceSeptember 1985 a locking pin has been fittedto the cable adjuster abutment bracket to lockthe adjuster sleeve and locknut together.11 Should it be necessary to renew thecable, the locking pin must be removed bypulling it out using pliers (see illustration).After adjustment a new nylon locking pin mustbe used and can be fitted by carefully tappingit into place.

15 Handbrake lever - removaland refitting 3

Removal1 Chock the front wheels, raise and supportthe vehicle at the rear using safety stands (see“Jacking and vehicle support”). Release thehandbrake.2 Working underneath the vehicle, extract thelever-to-equaliser cable retaining clip, removethe pin and separate the cable from theequaliser.3 Remove the front seats. It may also benecessary to remove the carpet.4 Detach the handbrake warning switch (seeillustration).5 Disconnect the cable from the handbrakelever by extracting the clip and pin (seeillustration).6 Unscrew the lever securing bolts andremove the lever.

Refitting7 Refit in the reverse order of removal. Oncompletion, check the handbrake adjustment.


14.6 Handbrake cable-to-brake backplatesecuring clip

14.9 Lubricate each side of the cablelocation clip (arrowed)

15.5 Primary cable-to-handbrake leverclevis pin and clip (arrowed)

15.4 Handbrake lever mounting bolts (A) and warning light switchscrews (B)

14.11 Handbrake cable adjuster locking pin removal

14.8 Secondary cable location bracket

16 Brake warning lamps -renewal 2

1 All models are fitted with a low fluid levelwarning switch in the master cylinder reservoircap and a brake pedal stop-lamp switch.2 Some models are also fitted with ahandbrake ON warning lamp switch.3 Warning indicator lamps are mounted onthe instrument panel.4 Access to the handbrake switch is obtainedafter removal of the front seats and floor

carpets. The switch is secured to the lever bymeans of two retaining screws.5 Whenever the switch is fully removed andrefitted, check the operation of the switch andwarning lamp with the ignition on prior torefitting the floor carpet and seats.6 The low fluid level warning lamp switchoperation can be checked by depressing theplunger in the top of the switch (seeillustration).7 The stop-lamp switch is activated by brakepedal movement. To remove the switch,unclip and remove the facia underpanel,disconnect the multi-plug connector to the

switch then turn the switch anti-clockwise toremove it (see illustration).8 To refit the switch, fit it into its lockringaperture, pressing inwards so that the switchbarrel is in contact with the pedal,compensating for any free play that mightexist in the pedal pivot. Twist the switchclockwise to lock it in this position thenreattach the wiring connector.9 On completion check the switch forsatisfactory operation.


16.7 Brake stop-light switch removal16.6 Depress the brake warning light switch plunger to test

9

9•12 Notes

10

Suspension typeFront suspension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Independent, MacPherson strut. Double-acting shock absorbers

incorporated in the strutsRear suspension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Independent with coil spring and double-acting shock absorbers. Anti-

roll bar on certain models

SteeringType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rack and pinion with universally-jointed shaft and deformable columnLubricant type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . To Ford specification SAM-1C-9106-A

Front wheel alignmentToe setting (service check):

All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Parallel to 6.0 mm toe-outToe-setting (setting if outside service check tolerance):

All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 to 4.0 mm toe-out

WheelsType . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pressed steel or alloySize:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13x4.50JSport and Ghia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13x5JXR2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13x6J

Tyre sizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Specifications

Tyre pressures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See end of “Weekly checks”

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Front suspensionHub retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 170Lower arm inboard pivot bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Lower arm balljoint pinch-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22Balljoint lower arm/tie-bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63Strut to spindle carrier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 69Tie-bar to mounting bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37Tie-bar mounting bracket to body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37Top mounting locknut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37Top mounting thrust bearing nut (plain) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37

Chapter 10Suspension and steering

Front hub bearings - inspection, removal and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . .8Front suspension lower arm - removal, bush replacement and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9Front suspension strut - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . .11Front tie-bar - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1Panhard rod - removal, bush renewal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14Rear anti-roll bar - removal, bush renewal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .15Rear axle and suspension unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .17Rear axle unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Rear coil spring - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16Rear hub bearings - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . .12Rear shock absorber - removal, testing and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .13Steering angles and wheel alignment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7Steering column - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3Steering gear bellows - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4Steering gear - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6Steering wheel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2Tie-rod end balljoint - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

10•1

Specifications

Contents







54321

10•2 Suspension and steering

Torque wrench settings (continued) Nm lbf ft

Rear suspensionLower arm-to-body bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37Lower arm-to-axle bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37Shock absorber bottom mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37Shock absorber top mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22Panhard rod-to-body bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37Panhard rod-to-axle bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37Brake backplate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17Anti-roll bar-to-body nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17Anti-roll bar-to-body screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17

SteeringSteering gear unit to bulkhead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 to 50 30 to 37Steering shaft to pinion coupling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 to 56 33 to 41Steering wheel to steering shaft nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 to 34 20 to 25Steering column tube mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 25 15 to 18Tie-rod end locknut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 to 68 42 to 50Tie-rod end to steering arm nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 to 30 18 to 22Tie-rod inner balljoint (staked) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 to 90 50 to 66Tie-rod inner balljoint to rack (Loctite 270) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 to 88 53 to 65Pinion cover nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 to 70 44 to 52Slipper plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 to 5 3 to 4

WheelsRoadwheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 74


General informationThe front suspension is of independent type

with MacPherson struts. The strut assemblyon each side is controlled transversely by afabricated lower (track control) arm whilst thefore and aft control is by means of a tie-barconnected between the lower arm and amounting bracket on the chassis. The right-hand tie-bar on the XR2 model differs fromthat fitted to other models in the range.

The rear suspension is of five-point link typeand consists of the axle beam, coil springs,double-acting telescopic shock absorbers, aPanhard rod and trailing arms. Certain modelsare also fitted with an anti-roll bar.

The steering is of rack and pinion type, witha safety steering column which incorporates ajointed lower shaft and a convoluted columntube.

PrecautionsWhen the front wheels are raised, avoid

turning the steering wheel rapidly from lock-to-lock. This could cause hydraulic pressure build-up, with consequent damage to the bellows.

2 Steering wheel - removal andrefitting 1

Removal1 According to model, either pull off thesteering wheel trim or prise out the insertwhich carries the Ford motif at the centre ofthe steering wheel (see illustration). Insertthe ignition key and turn it to position 1.2 Prevent the steering wheel from turningwith the front roadwheels in the straight-ahead attitude. Unscrew the steering wheelretaining nut using a socket with extension.3 Scribe an alignment mark between thesteering wheel and shaft end face to ensurecorrect realignment when refitting.4 Remove the steering wheel from the shaft.No effort should be required to remove thesteering wheel as it is located on a hexagonalsection shaft which does not cause thebinding associated with splined shafts.5 Note the steering shaft direction indicatorcam which has its peg uppermost.

Refitting6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Checkthat the roadwheels are still in the straight-ahead position and locate the steering wheelso that the alignment index marks made onthe steering wheel and shaft end facecorrespond. Refit and tighten the steeringwheel retaining nut to the specified torquesetting. Refit the steering wheel trim.

3 Steering column - removaland refitting 3

Removal1 Disconnect the battery earth lead thenremove the steering wheel. Also remove theindicator cam from the steering shaft.2 Unscrew and recover the steering columnshroud retaining screws, then detach andremove the upper and lower column shrouds.3 Extract the retaining clip from the bonnetrelease pivot pin, remove the lever anddisconnect the cable.4 Undo the four retaining screws and removethe column multifunction switches. Detach theignition switch wiring connector.5 Unclip and withdraw the facia leverinsulating panel on the driver’s side.6 Unscrew and remove the upper and lowercolumn mounting clamp retaining nuts andwashers (see illustration), then slide free andwithdraw the column tube and tolerance ring.

2.1 Removing the steering wheel trim toreveal the steering wheel retaining nut

3.6 Steering column upper (A) and lower(B) mountings

7 Use a suitable screwdriver or implement tohook out the upper thrust bearing.8 To remove the steering column shafts,unscrew and remove the lower shaft-to-pinioncoupling clamp bolt (see illustration) thenwithdraw the upper and lower shafts as a unit.If any difficulty is experienced in separatingthe lower shaft from the pinion gear, prise thecoupling open slightly with a screwdriver.9 The upper and lower shafts can beseparated and the bushes renewed ifnecessary (see illustrations).

Refitting10 Refit the shafts reversing the removalprocedure and check that the bulkhead seal isnot disturbed or distorted when the shaft isrefitted.11 Reconnect the lower shaft to the steeringgear pinion shaft and loosely engage theclamp for the moment.12 The steering column tube assembly cannow be fitted.13 With the upper thrust bearing located inthe column, fit the column tube over the shaft,align the mounting clamp holes with the fixingstuds then engage and fit the washers andretaining nuts, but do not fully tighten themyet. Semi-tighten the nuts so that the columntube is supported as far up as possible.14 Locate the upper column shroud and thenadjust the column so that the shroud andinstrument panel (facia) are not in contact(see illustration) and tighten the columnretaining nuts to the specified torque wrenchsetting. When tightened, check that the upperand lower steering shaft coupling pins andbushes are still fully engaged.

15 The upper shroud is now removed againto allow the ignition switch multi-plug to bereconnected and the steering columnswitches to be relocated and secured with thefour screws.16 Secure the wiring looms of the switchesto the column with a plastic strap clip.17 Locate and secure the bonnet releasecatch and cable.18 Locate and secure the upper and lowercolumn shrouds.19 Relocate the bearing tolerance ring thenrefit the direction indicator arm.20 Refit the steering wheel.21 Recheck that the upper and lowersteering shaft coupling pegs and bushes arestill fully engaged, then tighten the lowershaft-to-pinion clamp bolt to the specifiedtorque wrench setting.22 Refit the facia lower insulating panel.23 To complete, check that the steeringaction is satisfactory, reconnect the batteryearth lead and check that the column multi-function switches, ignition switch and steeringlock are operational.

4 Steering gear bellows -renewal 3

1 At the first indication of a split or greaseleakage from the bellows, renew them.2 The tie-rod diameter will be 11.8 mm or13.3 mm. It is important to identify which typeis fitted in order that the correct bellowsreplacement kit is obtained.

3 Raise the front of the vehicle and support itsecurely. Remove the front roadwheels. Turneach hub slowly to full lock to gain access toeach tie-rod balljoint.4 Prior to undoing a tie-rod end locknut,make a relative alignment mark across thefaces of the tie-rod and balljoint to ensurecorrect alignment on refitting (seeillustration). Release the tie-rod end locknut,but only unscrew it one quarter of a turn.5 Extract the split pin and remove the nutfrom the balljoint taper pin.6 Using a suitable balljoint extractor, separatethe balljoint taper pin from the eye of thesteering arm (see illustration).7 Unscrew the balljoint from the end of thetie-rod.8 Release the clips from both ends of thedamaged bellows and slide them from therack and the tie-rod.9 Turn the steering wheel gently to expel asmuch lubricant as possible from the rackhousing. It is recommended that the bellowson the opposite side be released by detachingtheir inboard clip, turning the bellows backand clearing the lubricant as it is also ejectedat this end of the rack housing.10 Smear the narrow neck of the new bellowswith the specified grease and slide them overthe tie-rod into position on the rack housing.11 If new bellows are being fitted to thepinion end of the rack, leave both ends of thebellows unclamped at this stage.12 If the bellows are being fitted to the racksupport bush end of the rack housing, clamponly the inner end of the bellows and leave theouter end unfastened.

Suspension and steering 10•3

3.9b Steering column lower shaft coupling(B) and bushes (A)

4.6 Detaching the balljoint with aseparator tool

4.4 Mark relative positions of balljoint andtie rod (arrowed)

3.14 Set column to give small clearance at(X) between the shrouds and facia panel

3.9a Steering column upper-to-lower shaftcoupling

3.8 Pinion coupling clamp bolt (arrowed)

10

13 Screw on the tie-rod end until the locknutrequires only 1/4 turn to lock it.14 Connect the tie-rod end balljoint to thesteering arm, tighten the nut to the specifiedtorque and insert a new split pin.15 Lubricate the support bush end of therack by applying 50 cc of the specifiedlubricant into the bellows at that end. Checkthat the bellows are correctly engaged in thegroove at the tie-rod end, then secure using anew clip (see illustrations).16 Repeat this procedure with the pinion endof the rack but apply 70 cc of lubricant.17 Tighten the tie-rod end locknut againstthe tie-rod end and check that the alignmentmarks correspond. Refit the roadwheels andlower the vehicle.18 If the position of the tie-rod locknut wasnot altered from its original setting, the frontwheel alignment (toe) will not have altered, butit is recommended that the alignment bechecked at the earliest opportunity.

5 Tie-rod end balljoint -renewal 3

1 If, as the result of inspection, the tie-rodend balljoints are found to be worn, removethem as described in the preceding Section.2 When the balljoint nuts are unscrewed, it issometimes found that the balljoint taper pinturns in the eye of the steering arm to preventthe nut from unscrewing. Should this happen,apply pressure to the top of the balljoint usinga length of wood as a lever to seat the taperpin while the nut is unscrewed. When thiscondition is met, a balljoint extractor isunlikely to be required to free the taper pinfrom the steering arm.3 With the tie-rod end removed, wire brushthe threads of the tie-rod and apply grease tothem.4 Screw on the new tie-rod to take up aposition similar to the original. Due tomanufacturing differences, the fitting of a newcomponent will almost certainly mean that thefront wheel alignment will require someadjustment. 5 Connect the balljoint to the steering arm.

6 Steering gear - removal andrefitting 3

Removal1 Set the front roadwheels in the straight-ahead position. 2 Raise the front of the vehicle and fit safetystands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).3 Working under the bonnet, remove thepinch-bolt from the coupling at the base ofthe steering column shaft.4 Extract the split pins from the tie-rodballjoint taper pin nuts, unscrew the nuts andremove them.5 Separate the balljoints from the steeringarms using a suitable tool.6 Flatten the locktabs on the steering gearsecuring bolts and unscrew and remove thebolts (see illustration). Withdraw the steeringgear downwards to separate the couplingfrom the steering shaft and then take it outfrom under the front wing.

Refitting7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. If a newrack and pinion assembly is being installed,the tie-rod ends will have to be removed fromthe original unit and screw onto the new tie-rods to approximately the same setting. If anote was not made of the position of theoriginal tie-rod ends on their rods, inspectionof the threads will probably indicate theiroriginal location. In any event it is importantthat the new tie-rod ends are screwed on anequal amount at this stage.8 Make sure that the steering gear is centred.Do this by turning the pinion shaft to full lockin one direction and then count the number ofturns required to rotate it to the opposite lock.Now turn the splined pinion shaft through halfthe number of turns just counted.9 Check that the roadwheels and the steeringwheel are in the straight-ahead attitude, offerup the steering gear and connect the shaftcoupling without inserting the pinch-bolt.10 Bolt up the gear housing and lock thebolts with their lockplate tabs.11 Reconnect the tie-rod ends to the steeringarms. Use new split pins.

12 Tighten the coupling pinch-bolt to thespecified torque. Lower the vehicle to thefloor.13 If the tie-rod ends were disturbed or if anew assembly was installed, check and adjustthe front wheel alignment.

7 Steering angles and wheelalignment 3

1 When reading this Section, referenceshould also be made in respect of front andrear suspension arrangement.2 Accurate front wheel alignment is essentialto good steering and for even tyre wear.Before considering the steering angles, checkthat the tyres are correctly inflated, that theroadwheels are not buckled, the hub bearingsare not worn or incorrectly adjusted and thatthe steering linkage is in good order.3 Wheel alignment consists of four factors:

Camber is the angle at which theroadwheels are set from the vertical whenviewed from the front or rear of the vehicle.Positive camber is the angle (in degrees) thatthe wheels are tilted outwards at the top, fromthe vertical.

Castor is the angle between the steeringaxis and a vertical line when viewed from eachside of the vehicle. Positive castor is indicatedwhen the steering axis is inclined towards therear of the vehicle at its upper end.

Steering axis inclination is the angle,when viewed from the front or rear of thevehicle, between the vertical and an imaginaryline drawn between the upper and lowersuspension swivel balljoints or upper andlower strut mountings.

Toe is the amount by which the distancebetween the front inside edges of theroadwheel differs from that between the rearinside edges. If the distance at the front is lessthan that at the rear, the wheels are said totoe-in. If the distance at the front inside edgesis greater than that at the rear, the wheels toe-out.4 Due to the need for precision gauges tomeasure the small angles of the steering andsuspension settings, it is preferable to leave


4.15a Bellows must engage in rod groove(inset)

6.6 Steering gear unit securing bolts(arrowed)

4.15b Discard original wire type bellowsretaining clip (inset) and use new worm

drive type

this work to your dealer. Camber and castorangles are set in production and are notadjustable. If these angles are ever checkedand found to be outside specification theneither the suspension components aredamaged or distorted, or wear has occurredin the bushes at the attachment point.5 If you wish to check front wheel alignmentyourself, first make sure that the lengths ofboth tie-rods are equal when the steering is inthe straight-ahead position. This can bemeasured reasonably accurately by countingthe number of exposed threads on the tie-rodadjacent to the balljoint assembly.6 Adjust if necessary by releasing the locknutfrom the balljoint assembly and the clamp atthe small end of the bellows.7 Obtain a tracking gauge. These areavailable in various forms from accessorystores, or one can be fabricated from a lengthof steel tubing, suitably cranked to clear thesump and bellhousing, and having a set screwand locknut at one end.8 With the gauge, measure the distancebetween the two inner rims of the roadwheels(at hub height) at the rear of the wheel. Pushthe vehicle forward to rotate the wheelthrough 180° (half a turn) and measure thedistance between the wheel inner rims, againat hub height, at the front of the wheel. Thislast measurement should differ from the firstone by the specified toe-in/toe-out (see Spec-ifications). 9 Where the toe setting is found to beincorrect, release the tie-rod balljoint locknutsand turn the tie-rods by an equal amount.Only turn them through a quarter turn at atime before rechecking the alignment. Do notgrip the threaded part of the tie-rod duringadjustment and make sure that the bellowsoutboard clip is released, otherwise thebellows will twist as the tie-rod is rotated.When each tie-rod is viewed from the rackhousing, turning the rods clockwise willincrease the toe-out. Always turn the tie-rodsin the same direction when viewed from thecentre of the vehicle, otherwise they willbecome unequal in length. This would causethe steering wheel spoke alignment to alterand also cause problems on turning with tyrescrubbing.10 After adjustment of the tie-rods check thatthe exposed thread portion of each is equaland does not exceed 28 mm. Also check thatthe steering wheel position is centralised, withthe front roadwheels in the straight-aheadposition.11 If the steering wheel angular position isincorrect, but the tracking alignment of thefront roadwheels is correct, proceed asfollows:12 Where the steering wheel misalignment isless than 30° then the wheel can be left inposition.13 Where the steering wheel is misaligned bymore than 60°, turn the steering onto full lockthen move it back to centralise it in the centrepoint of the lock-to-lock travel. You will now

need to remove the steering wheel and refit itin the correct alignment position.14 To correct further misalignment betweenthe position of the steering wheel and theroadwheels when in the straight-aheadposition, you will need to raise and supportthe front of the vehicle on safety stands (see“Jacking and vehicle support”).15 Mark the relative positions of the tie-rodsto joints, loosen the locknut and the outersteering bellows clip, then rotate each tie-rodan equivalent amount in the same direction tocorrect the steering wheel misalignment. Notethat 30° of tie-rod rotation equals 1° ofsteering wheel angular correction. Rotate therods clockwise (viewed from the left-handside of the car) to correct a clockwisemisalignment of the steering wheel. Rotatethe tie-rods anti-clockwise to correct an anti-clockwise misalignment (also viewed from theleft-hand side of the vehicle).16 After the steering wheel and tie-rodadjustment is complete, recheck the wheelalignment (paragraphs 5 to 9 inclusive) andretighten the locknuts without altering thepositional settings of the tie-rods. Hold theballjoint assembly at the mid-point of its arc oftravel (flats are provided on it for a spanner)while the locknuts are tightened. 17 Finally, tighten the bellows clamps.18 Rear wheel alignment is set in productionand is not adjustable, but when dismantlingany part, it is essential that all washers arerefitted in their original positions as theycontrol the wheel setting for the life of thevehicle.

8 Front hub bearings -inspection, removal andrenewal

4Inspection1 All models are fitted with non-adjustablefront hub bearings, the bearing play being setwhen the hub nut is tightened to its specifiedsetting during initial assembly or overhaul.2 To check the bearings for excessive wear,raise and support the vehicle at the front endso that the roadwheels are clear of theground.

3 Grip the roadwheel tyre at the top andbottom and use a rocking motion to check forplay of the bearings.4 A small amount of endfloat may bedetected when checking for play (even afterfitting new bearings) but when the wheel isspun there should be no sign of roughness,binding or vibration caused by the bearings.5 If the hub bearings are suspect or obviouslyworn beyond an acceptable level they mustbe renewed.

Removal6 Before removing the roadwheel(s) thevehicle must be suitably supported on safetystands at the front (see “Jacking and vehiclesupport”).7 Get an assistant to apply the footbrake thenundo the roadwheel bolts and remove thewheel.8 Refit two of the roadwheel bolts as a meansof anchorage for the disc when the hub nut isunscrewed.9 Have an assistant apply the footbrake andthen unscrew the staked hub nut and removeit, together with the plain washer. This nut isvery tight so, if you are unsure of the raisedcar’s stability, refit the roadwheel(s) and undothe hub nut with the car on the ground.10 Remove the wheel and/or wheel bolts.11 Unbolt the brake caliper and tie it up tothe suspension strut to avoid strain on theflexible hose (see illustration).12 Withdraw the hub/disc. If it is tight, use atwo-legged puller.13 Extract the split pin and unscrew thecastellated nut from the tie-rod end balljoint.14 Using a suitable balljoint splitter, separatethe balljoint from the steering arm (seeillustration).15 Unscrew and remove the special Torxpinch-bolt which holds the lower arm balljointto the stub axle carrier (see illustration).16 Support the driveshaft on a block of woodand remove the bolts which hold the stub axlecarrier to the base of the suspension strut.17 Using a suitable lever, separate the carrierfrom the strut by prising open the clamp jaws.18 Support the driveshaft at the outboard CVjoint and pull the stub axle carrier clear of thedriveshaft.


8.14 Separate the balljoint8.11 Brake caliper retaining bolts(arrowed)

10

19 Remove the stub axle carrier and grip it ina vice fitted with jaw protectors.20 Using pliers, pull out the dust shield fromthe groove in the stub axle carrier.21 Prise out the inner and outer oil seals. 22 Lift out the bearings.23 With a suitable drift, drive out the bearingtracks (see illustration).24 Clean away all the old grease from thestub axle carrier.

Renewal25 Drive the new bearing tracks squarely intotheir seats using a piece of suitable diametertubing or press tool (see illustration).26 Liberally pack grease into the bearings,making sure to work plenty into the spacesbetween the rollers.27 Install the bearing to one side of thecarrier, then fill the lips of the new oil seal withgrease and tap it squarely into position.28 Fit the bearing and its seal to the oppositeside in a similar way.

29 Fit the dust shield by tapping it intoposition using a block of wood.30 Smear the driveshaft splines with grease,then install the carrier over the end of thedriveshaft.31 Connect the carrier to the suspensionstrut and tighten the bolt to the specifiedtorque.32 Reconnect the suspension lower armballjoint to the carrier and secure by passingthe pinch-bolt through the groove in theballjoint stud (see illustration).33 Reconnect the tie-bar to the steering arm,tighten the castellated nut and secure with anew split pin.34 Install the hub/disc and push it on to thedriveshaft as far as it will go using handpressure.35 In the absence of the special hub installertool (14-022), draw the hub/disc onto thedriveshaft by using a two or three-leggedpuller with legs engaged behind the carrier.On no account try to knock the hub/disc intoposition using hammer blows or the CV jointwill be damaged.

36 Grease the threads at the end of thedriveshaft, fit the plain washer and screw on anew nut, finger tight.37 Fit the brake caliper, tightening themounting bolts to the specified torque (seeChapter 9 Specifications).38 Screw in two wheel bolts and have anassistant apply the footbrake.39 Tighten the hub nut to the specifiedtorque. This is a high torque and if a suitablycalibrated torque wrench is not available, usea socket with a knuckle bar 457.2 mm inlength. Applying maximum leverage to theknuckle bar should tighten the nut to veryclose to its specified torque. For safety it isprobably better to leave the final tightening ofthe hub nut until the car is on its wheels.40 Stake the nut into the driveshaft groove, ifapplicable (see illustration). 41 Remove the temporary roadwheel bolts.42 Fit the roadwheel and lower the vehicle tothe floor. Fully tighten the roadwheel bolts andhub nut (if applicable). If necessary stake thehub nut.


8.15 Lower arm balljoint and stub axle carrier Torx bolt (arrowed)

8.25 Bearing track installationA Press tool B Bearing track C Stub axle carrier

8.32 Balljoint pinch-bolt locationA Balljoint B Carrier C Pinch-bolt D Balljoint stud

8.23 Bearing track removal from stub axle carrier

9 Front suspension lower arm- removal, bush replacementand refitting

31 Raise the front of the vehicle and support itsecurely on safety stands (see “Jacking andvehicle support”).2 Unbolt and remove the pivot bolt from theinboard end of the suspension arm.3 At the outboard end of the suspension arm,disengage the arm from the hub carrier byunscrewing and removing the pinch-bolt.4 Unscrew the tie-bar-to-lower armattachment nuts and withdraw the lower arm(see illustration).5 Renewal of the pivot bush at the inboardend of the suspension arm is possible using anut and bolt, or a vice, and suitable distancepieces. Apply some brake hydraulic fluid tofacilitate installation of the new bush. If theballjoint is worn or corroded, renew thesuspension arm complete.6 Refitting the arm is a reversal of removal.Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specifiedtorque when the weight of the vehicle is againon the roadwheels.

10 Front tie-bar - removal andrefitting 3

Removal1 Jack up the front of the vehicle and supportsecurely on axle stands (see “Jacking andvehicle support”).2 Unscrew and remove the nut which holdsthe tie-bar to the large pressed steel mountingbracket. Take off the dished washer and therubber insulator (see illustration).3 Unscrew and remove the tie-bar-to-lowerarm retaining nuts then push the tie-barupwards and clear of the arm.4 Remove the tie-bar, together with theremaining bush and washer (see illustration). 5 Where necessary, the bush in the pressed-steel mounting bracket can be renewed if theold bush is drawn out using a bolt, nut andsuitable distance pieces (see illustration).6 Lubricate the bush-to-bracket contactfaces before inserting the replacement items.

Refitting7 Refitting the tie-bar is a reversal of removal.The shouldered face of the tie-bar must faceupwards when fitted (see illustration). Finallytighten all nuts and bolts to the specifiedtorque only when the weight of the vehicle isagain on its roadwheels.


10.2 Tie-bar and mounting bracketNote that the XR2 differs slightly from thatfitted to other models

10.5 Tie-bar bush renewal, using draw bolt and cupped washers10.4 Tie-bar mounting bracket and bush components

A Retaining nutB WasherC Bush

D BearingE Bracket

F Tie-barG Bush sleeve

9.4 Tie-bar-to-lower suspension armretaining nuts (arrowed)

10

8.40 Stake the hub nut to secure

10.7 Shouldered face of tie-bar must facetop when fitted

11 Front suspension strut -removal, overhaul and refitting 3

Note 1: At the beginning of 1986, a revisedtype of bolt was introduced to secure the frontstub axle carrier to the suspension strut.These bolts are precision ground and providemore positive and accurate location of thestub axle carrier and strut, thus reducing thepossibility of a change in suspension andsteering angles when the two components aredismantled and reassembled. It isrecommended by Ford that this latest boltshould be used on pre-1986 models if thestub axle carrier and suspension strut areseparated.Note 2: A modified strut top mounting hasbeen progressively introduced on XR2 modelsfrom November 1984 onwards to eliminateisolated cases of premature tyre wear. Thislater mounting and related parts can be fittedto early models if required (see illustration).Note that the nylon spacer on the earlymounting shown is not used on the modifiedversion.

Removal1 Slacken the roadwheel bolts, raise the frontof the vehicle and support it securely onstands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”),then remove the roadwheel.2 Position a jack beneath the stub axle carrierunit and raise it to support the stub axlecarrier, driveshaft and CV joints in their normalpositions to ensure that they are notdamaged.3 Undo the retaining nuts and withdraw thetwo bolts securing the suspension strut to thestub axle carrier (see illustration).4 Detach the brake hose and locationgrommet from the strut bracket.5 Working at the top end of the strut, detachthe cover and then unscrew the strut retainingnut (see illustration).6 Withdraw the complete strut assembly fromunder the front wing.

Overhaul7 Clean away external dirt and mud from thestrut.

8 If the strut has been removed due to oilleakage or to lack of damping, then it shouldbe renewed with a new or factoryreconditioned unit. Dismantling of the originalstrut is not recommended and internalcomponents are not generally available.9 Before the strut is exchanged, the coilspring will have to be removed. To do this, aspring compressor or compressors will beneeded. These are generally available fromtool hire centres or they can be purchased atmost motor accessory shops.10 Engage the compressors over at leastthree coils of the spring and compress thespring sufficiently to release spring tensionfrom the top mounting (see illustration).

11 Once the spring is compressed, unscrewand remove the nut from the end of the pistonrod which retains the top mounting. As therewill be a tendency for the piston rod to turnwhile the nut is unscrewed, provision is madeat the end of the rod to insert a 6 mm Allenkey to hold the rod still.12 Remove the top mounting and lift off thespring and compressor. 13 The compressor need not be released ifthe spring is to be fitted immediately to a newstrut. If the compressor is to be released fromthe spring, make sure that you do it slowlyand progressively.14 The top mounting can be dismantled bysliding off the thrust bearing and withdrawingthe spring upper seat, gaiter spring and,where fitted, insulator. Also if fitted, slide thebump stop from the piston rod.


11.3 Suspension strut-to-stub axle carrierretaining bolts

11.10 Typical spring compressor inposition

11.5 Strut top mounting nut removalNote Allen key to prevent rod from turning

11.0 Front suspension modified strut top mountings

X Early type mountingA BearingB Upper cup washerC LocknutD Nylon spacerE Lower cup washer

Y Later type mountingA LocknutB BearingC Rubber mountingD Lower cup washer

15 Renew any worn or damagedcomponents. If the front strut and/or coilspring is to be renewed then it is advisablealso to renew the equivalent assembly on theother side.16 Fit the spring to the strut, making surethat the ends of the coils locate correctly inthe shaped parts of the spring seats.17 Fit the top mounting components, beingvery careful to maintain the correct order ofassembly of the individual components.18 Gently release and remove the springcompressor.19 With the spring compressor removed,check that the ends of the spring are fullylocated in the shaped sections of the springseatings.

Refitting20 Refit the strut unit reversing the removalprocedure.21 The suspension strut-to-stub axle carrierfitting position is critical and, duringmanufacture, this is set using a jig and normalproduction bolts fitted. When reassemblingthe stub axle carrier and strut, two new Fordspecial service bolts must be used to ensure

that the correct carrier-to-strut fitting positionis restored. These bolts can be identified bytheir knurled shank (see illustration). 22 Lower the vehicle so that it is free-standing before tightening the top mountingnuts to its specified wrench setting, then refitthe plastic cover.

12 Rear hub bearings - removal,refitting and adjustment 3

Removal1 Remove the brake drum (see illustration).2 With the drum removed the bearings andinner hub can be cleaned and inspected, butavoid getting grease onto the braking surfaceof the drum.3 Use a suitable tool and hook out the greaseretainer from the inner hub.4 Extract the inner bearing cone.5 Using a suitable punch, drive out thebearing outer tracks, taking care not to burrthe bearing seats.

Refitting6 If new bearings are being fitted to bothhubs do not mix up the bearing components,but keep them in their individual packs untilrequired.7 Drive the new bearing tracks squarely intotheir hub recesses.8 Pack both bearings with a lithium-basedgrease, working plenty into the rollers. Begenerous, but there is no need to fill the cavitybetween the inner and outer bearings.9 Locate the inboard bearing and then greasethe lips of a new oil seal (grease retainer) andtap it into position.

10 Fit the brake drum/hub onto the stub axle,taking care not to catch the oil seal (greaseretainer) lips.11 Fit the outboard bearing and thethrustwasher and screw the retaining nut intoposition. Adjust the bearing endfloat andlower the vehicle to complete.

Adjustment12 Raise and support the rear of the vehicleon safety stands (see “Jacking and vehiclesupport”). Release the handbrake.13 This adjustment will normally only berequired if, when the top and bottom of theroadwheel are gripped and “rocked”,excessive movement can be detected in thebearings. Slight movement is essential. 14 Remove the roadwheels. Using a hammerand cold chisel, tap off the dust cap from theend of the hub.15 Extract the split pin and take off the nutretainer.16 Tighten the hub nut to a torque ofbetween 20 and 25 Nm (15 and 18 lbf ft), atthe same time rotating the roadwheel in ananti-clockwise direction (see illustration).17 Unscrew the nut one half a turn and thentighten it only finger tight.18 Fit the nut retainer so that two of its slotsline up with the split pin hole. Insert a newsplit pin, bending the end around the nut, notover the end of the stub axle.19 Tap the dust cap into position.20 Recheck the play as described inparagraph 13. A fractional amount of wheelmovement must be present.21 Repeat the operations on the oppositehub, refit the roadwheels and lower thevehicle to the floor.


12.16 Rear wheel bearing adjustment

11.21 Special service bolts for attachingstrut to carrier

1012.1 Rear hub/drum components

A Grease retainerB Tapered roller bearing

(inner)C Bearing trackD Hub/drumE Bearing track

F Tapered roller bearing(outer)

G ThrustwasherH NutJ Nut lockK Split pinL Grease cap

13 Rear shock absorber -removal, testing and refitting 3

Removal1 Slacken the rear roadwheel bolts, raise andsupport the rear of the vehicle using safetystands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).Remove the roadwheel.2 Position a jack beneath the rear axle forsupport.3 Raise the tailgate and, from within thevehicle at the rear, prise free the plastic capcovering the top end of the rear shockabsorber on the side concerned.4 Unscrew and remove the shock absorberupper mounting locknut, washer and insulator(see illustration).5 Unscrew and remove the shock absorberlower mounting locknut (see illustration).Withdraw the bolt then lever the shockabsorber unit upwards to disengage it from itslocation peg (see illustrations).

Testing6 To test the shock absorber, grip its lowermounting in a vice so that the unit is vertical.7 Fully extend and extract the shockabsorber ten or twelve times. Any lack ofresistance in either direction will indicate theneed for renewal, as will evidence of leakageof fluid.

Refitting8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but if anew unit is being installed, prime it first in asimilar way to that described for testing.9 To ease the fitting of the shock absorberlower arm onto the location peg, lubricate thebush and peg with a solution of soapy water.Locate a suitable section of tubing or a socketon the top face of the shock absorber locationarm bush and lever it down into position onthe peg. 10 Locate the lower mounting bolt andloosely fit the locknut. 11 Extend the shock absorber and locate it atthe top end fitting the insulator, washer and nut. 12 Lower the vehicle and when free-standingtighten the upper and lower mounting nuts tothe specified torque wrench settings.

14 Panhard rod - removal, bushrenewal and refitting 3

1 Raise the vehicle at the rear and support onsafety stands (see “Jacking and vehiclesupport”).2 Undo and remove the Panhard rod-to-bodyretaining bolt (see illustration). 3 Unscrew and remove the locknut and boltretaining the Panhard rod to the axle andremove the rod.

4 Renewal of the Panhard rod bushes can beaccomplished by using sockets or distancepieces and applying pressure in the jaws of avice (see illustration). Lubricate the newbushes with paraffin to ease fitting. 5 Refit the Panhard rod by reversing theremoval procedure. Tighten the retaining boltsto their specified torque wrench settings whenthe vehicle is lowered and free-standing.


13.4 Rear suspension shock absorber topmounting

13.5b Lever rear shock absorber clear of locating peg to remove it from the peg (A) orposition on the peg (B) when refitting

14.4 Panhard rod bush removal method

A BushB Sockets

C Panhard rod14.2 Panhard rod mounting to axle (A) andbody (B)

13.5c Rear suspension shock absorberlocation peg

13.5a Rear suspension shock absorberlower mounting

15 Rear anti-roll bar - removal,bush renewal and refitting 3

1 Loosen the roadwheel bolts on each side atthe rear, raise the rear of the vehicle, supporton safety stands and remove the rear wheels(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).2 Unscrew and remove the shock absorberlower mounting bolt nuts, but do not withdrawthe bolt. 3 Unscrew and remove the anti-roll bar-to-body mounting bracket nuts. Withdraw themounting bush clamps (see illustration).4 The anti-roll bar and connecting linkassembly can now be disengaged from thelower shock absorber mounting and the barremoved (see illustration).5 To remove the body mounting bushes prisethem open by levering within the split on theirrear face.6 To detach the connecting links from theanti-roll bar press free the upper bush. This

bush can be renewed if worn or defective, butthe lower bush cannot and it will therefore benecessary to renew the complete link if this isdefective.7 If the anti-roll bar is damaged or distorted itmust be renewed.8 Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure. When refitting the connecting linkto the anti-roll bar ensure that the longer tubeend faces towards the centre of the vehicle.9 Do not fully tighten the anti-roll bar locationand mounting nuts until the vehicle is loweredand free-standing.

16 Rear coil spring - removaland refitting 3

Removal1 Slacken the roadwheel bolts, raise the rearof the vehicle and support it securely withsafety stands (see “Jacking and vehiclesupport”).

2 Locate a jack under the rear axle and raiseit to support (not lift) the axle.3 Remove the retaining nut and disconnectthe shock absorber at its upper mounting.4 Unscrew and remove the lower armthrough-bolt from the axle.5 Slowly lower the jack under the axle torelease the spring tension and allow itsremoval. Remove the insulator ring (seeillustration).6 If required, the bump stop rubber can beprised free from its location hole in the axle.When refitting the bump stop, press it downfirmly into its location hole and turn it so thatits lower section is felt to snap into position(see illustration).

Refitting7 Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure. Do not tighten the lower arm andshock absorber retaining nuts until after thevehicle is lowered and is free-standing.


15.4 Rear anti-roll bar connecting link (B) with upper (A) andlower (C) bush assemblies

16.6 Rear suspension coil spring and bump stop rubber16.5 Rear coil spring and insulator ring (arrowed)

15.3 Rear anti-roll bar to body mounting

10

17 Rear axle and suspensionunit - removal and refitting 4

Removal1 Raise the rear of the vehicle and support onsafety stands (see “Jacking and vehiclesupport”).2 Release the handbrake, then disconnectthe handbrake cable from the equalizer andthe outer cable from the body location clips.3 Detach the flexible brake liner from thelower arm connections on each side. Cleanthe hydraulic line connections beforedisconnecting and, to prevent excessive fluidloss, plug the pipe ends once they aredetached.4 Undo the Panhard rod-to-axle pivot boltand retaining nut and withdraw the bolt.5 Unbolt and detach the exhaust downpipe atthe flange connection. 6 Unbolt and remove the Panhard rod fromthe body.

7 Remove the rear anti-roll bar (where fitted).8 Locate a jack beneath the rear axle andraise it to support the axle (trolley type, ifpossible).9 Disconnect the shock absorber at its topbody mounting.10 Undo and remove the lower arm-to-bodythrough-bolts (see illustration).11 The axle and suspension unit can now belowered and withdrawn from the underside ofthe vehicle, but take care not to snag thebrake hydraulic pipes.

Refitting12 Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure, but note the following:a) Do not fully tighten the chassis and

suspension fastening until after thevehicle is lowered and is free-standing.The respective torque wrench settings aregiven in the Specifications.

b) Reconnect and adjust the handbrakecable. When the brake lines arereconnected, top-up the hydraulic fluidlevel and bleed the hydraulic circuit.

18 Rear axle unit - removal andrefitting 4

Removal1 Proceed as described in the previousSection, paragraphs 1 to 8 inclusive.2 Referring to Section 13, disconnect theshock absorber on each side at its lower end.3 The axle tube and coil spring assembliescan now be lowered and withdrawn from theunderside of the vehicle. Take care not tosnag the brake hydraulic lines when removing.

Refitting4 Refitting is a direct reversal of the removalprocedure.5 Reconnect the shock absorbers at theirlower mountings.6 Note that the special remarks made inparagraph 12 of the previous Section alsoapply when refitting the axle unit.


17.10 Rear suspension lower arm-to-body pivot bolt and nut

11

Torque wrench settings Nm Ibf ftAll seat belt anchor bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 to 41 21 to 30Front belt stalk-to-seat frame screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 to 30 18 to 22Bumper retaining nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 to 13 8 to 10

Chapter 11Bodywork and fittings

Body mouldings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23Bonnet components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6Bonnet - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5Bumpers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16Door components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11Door windows - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12Doors - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10Facia crash padding and vents - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .18General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1Interior mirror - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2Major body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Minor body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3Radiator grille - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7Rear wheel arch cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22Seat belts - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20Seats - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21Spoilers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17Sunroof components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19Tailgate and fixed rear quarter windows - removal and refitting . . . .13Tailgate components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9Tailgate - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Windscreen - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

11•1

Specifications

Contents


The body is of a monocoque all-steel,welded construction with impact absorbingfront and rear sections. There are two sidedoors and a full-length lifting tailgate for easyaccess to the rear compartment. The sidedoors are fitted with antiburst locks. Thetailgate hinges are bolted to the underside ofthe roof panel and welded to the tailgate.Gas-filled dampers support the tailgate in theopen position; when closed it is fastened by akey-operated lock.

Wrap-around polycarbonate bumpers arefitted front and rear, and further bodyprotection is given by side mouldings whichare also manufactured in this material.

Rust and corrosion protection is applied toall new vehicles and includes zinc phosphatedipping and wax injection of the box sectionsand door interiors.

2 Maintenance 1Bodywork and underframe

The general condition of a vehicle’sbodywork is the one thing that significantlyaffects its value. Maintenance is easy butneeds to be regular. Neglect, particularly afterminor damage, can lead quickly to furtherdeterioration and costly repair bills. It isimportant also to keep watch on those partsof the vehicle not immediately visible, forinstance the underside, inside all the wheelarches and the lower part of the enginecompartment.

The basic maintenance routine for thebodywork is washing preferably with a lot ofwater, from a hose. This will remove all theloose solids which may have stuck to thevehicle. It is important to flush these off in

such a way as to prevent grit from scratchingthe finish. The wheel arches and underframeneed washing in the same way to remove anyaccumulated mud which will retain moistureand tend to encourage rust. Paradoxicallyenough, the best time to clean the underframeand wheel arches is in wet weather when themud is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wetweather the underframe is usually cleaned oflarge accumulations automatically and this isa good time for inspection.

Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax-based underbody protective coating, it is agood idea to have the whole of theunderframe of the vehicle steam cleaned,engine compartment included, so that athorough inspection can be carried out to seewhat minor repairs and renovations arenecessary. Steam cleaning is available atmany garages and is necessary for removal ofthe accumulation of oily grime whichsometimes is allowed to become thick incertain areas. If steam cleaning facilities arenot available, there are one or two excellent







54321

grease solvents available. The dirt can then besimply hosed off. Note that these methodsshould not be used on vehicles with wax-based underbody protective coating or thecoating will be removed. Such vehicles shouldbe inspected annually, preferably just prior towinter, when the underbody should bewashed down and any damage to the waxcoating repaired. Ideally, a completely freshcoat should be applied. It would also be worthconsidering the use of such wax-basedprotection for injection into door panels, sills,box sections, etc, as an additional safeguardagainst rust damage where such protection isnot provided by the vehicle manufacturer.

After washing paintwork, wipe off with achamois leather to give an unspotted clearfinish. A coat of clear protective wax polishwill give added protection against chemicalpollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheenhas dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polishercombination to restore the brilliance of theshine. This requires a little effort, but suchdulling is usually caused because regularwashing has been neglected. Care needs tobe taken with metallic paintwork, as specialnonabrasive cleaner/polisher is required toavoid damage to the finish. Always check thatthe door and ventilator opening drain holesand pipes are completely clear so that watercan be drained out. Bright work should betreated in the same way as paint work.Windscreens and windows can be kept clearof the smeary film which often appears, by theuse of a proprietary glass cleaner. Never useany form of wax or other body or chromiumpolish on glass.

Upholstery and carpetsMats and carpets should be brushed or

vacuum cleaned regularly to keep them free ofgrit. If they are badly stained remove themfrom the vehicle for scrubbing or spongingand make quite sure they are dry beforerefitting. Seats and interior trim panels can bekept clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If theydo become stained (which can be moreapparent on light coloured upholstery) use alittle liquid detergent and a soft nail brush toscour the grime out of the grain of thematerial. Do not forget to keep the headliningclean in the same way as the upholstery.When using liquid cleaners inside the vehicledo not over-wet the surfaces being cleaned.Excessive damp could get into the seams andpadded interior causing stains, offensiveodours or even rot. If the inside of the vehiclegets wet accidentally it is worthwhile takingsome trouble to dry it out properly, particularlywhere carpets are involved. Do not leave oil orelectric heaters inside the vehicle for thispurpose.

3 Minor body damage - repair 2Repair of minor scratches inbodywork

If the scratch is very superficial, and doesnot penetrate to the metal of the bodywork,repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area ofthe scratch with a paintwork renovator, or avery fine cutting paste to remove loose paintfrom the scratch and to clear the surroundingbodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area withclean water.

Apply touch-up paint or a paint film to thescratch using a fine paint brush; continue toapply fine layers of paint until the surface of thepaint in the scratch is level with the surroundingpaintwork. Allow the new paint at least twoweeks to harden: then blend it into thesurrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratcharea with a paintwork renovator or a very finecutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish.

Where the scratch has penetrated rightthrough to the metal of the bodywork, causingthe metal to rust, a different repair techniqueis required. Remove any loose rust from thebottom of the scratch with a penknife, thenapply rust inhibiting paint to prevent theformation of rust in the future. Using a rubberor nylon applicator fill the scratch withbodystopper paste. If required, this paste canbe mixed with cellulose thinners to provide avery thin paste which is ideal for filling narrowscratches. Before the stopper-paste in thescratch hardens, wrap a piece of smoothcotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip thefinger in cellulose thinners and then quicklysweep it across the surface of the stopper-paste in the scratch; this will ensure that thesurface of the stopper-paste is slightlyhollowed. The scratch can now be paintedover as described earlier in this Section.

Repair of dents in bodyworkWhen deep denting of the vehicle’s

bodywork has taken place, the first task is topull the dent out, until the affected bodyworkalmost attains its original shape. There is littlepoint in trying to restore the original shapecompletely, as the metal in the damaged areawill have stretched on impact and cannot bereshaped fully to its original contour. It isbetter to bring the level of the dent up to apoint which is about 1/8 in (3 mm) below thelevel of the surrounding bodywork. In caseswhere the dent is very shallow anyway, it isnot worth trying to pull it out at all. If theunderside of the dent is accessible, it can behammered out gently from behind, using amallet with a wooden or plastic head. Whilstdoing this, hold a suitable block of woodfirmly against the outside of the panel toabsorb the impact from the hammer blowsand thus prevent a large area of the bodyworkfrom being “belled-out”.

Should the dent be in a section of thebodywork which has a double skin or someother factor making it inaccessible frombehind, a different technique is called for. Drillseveral small holes through the metal insidethe area particularly in the deeper section.Then screw long self-tapping screws into theholes just sufficiently for them to gain a goodpurchase in the metal. Now the dent can bepulled out by pulling on the protruding headsof the screws with a pair of pliers.

The next stage of the repair is the removalof the paint from the damaged area, and froman inch or so of the surrounding “sound”bodywork. This is accomplished most easilyby using a wire brush or abrasive pad on apower drill, although it can be done just aseffectively by hand using sheets of abrasivepaper. To complete the preparation for filling,score the surface of the bare metal with ascrewdriver or the tang of a file, oralternatively, drill small holes in the affectedarea. This will provide a really good “key” forthe filler paste.

To complete the repair see the Section onfilling and re-spraying.

Repair of rust holes or gashes inbodywork

Remove all paint from the affected area andfrom an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a wirebrush on a power drill. If these are notavailable a few sheets of abrasive paper willdo the job just as effectively. With the paintremoved you will be able to gauge the severityof the corrosion and therefore decide whetherto renew the whole panel (if this is possible) orto repair the affected area. New body panelsare not as expensive as most people thinkand it is often quicker and more satisfactoryto fit a new panel than to attempt to repairlarge areas of corrosion.

Remove all fittings from the affected areaexcept those which will act as a guide to theoriginal shape of the damaged bodywork (egheadlamp shells etc). Then, using tin snips or ahacksaw blade, remove all loose metal andany other metal badly affected by corrosion.Hammer the edges of the hole inwards in orderto create a slight depression for the filler paste.

Wire brush the affected area to remove thepowdery rust from the surface of theremaining metal. Paint the affected area withrust inhibiting paint; if the back of the rustedarea is accessible treat this also.

Before filling can take place it will benecessary to block the hole in some way. Thiscan be achieved by the use of aluminium orplastic mesh, or aluminium tape.

Aluminium or plastic mesh or glass fibrematting, is probably the best material to use fora large hole. Cut a piece to the approximatesize and shape of the hole to be filled, thenposition it in the hole so that its edges arebelow the level of the surrounding bodywork. Itcan be retained in position by several blobs offiller paste around its periphery.

11•2 Bodywork and fittings

Aluminium tape should be used for small orvery narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll andtrim it to the approximate size and shaperequired, then pull off the backing paper (ifused) and stick the tape over the hole; it canbe overlapped if the thickness of one piece isinsufficient. Burnish down the edges of thetape with the handle of a screwdriver orsimilar, to ensure that the tape is securelyattached to the metal underneath.

Bodywork repairs - filling andre-spraying

Before using this Section, see the Sectionson dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gashrepairs.

Many types of bodyfiller are available, butgenerally speaking those proprietary kitswhich contain a tin of filler paste and a tube ofresin hardener are best for this type of repair.A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator willbe found invaluable for imparting a smoothand well contoured finish to the surface of thefiller.

Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of cardor board - measure the hardener carefully(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack)otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or tooslowly. Using the applicator apply the fillerpaste to the prepared area; draw theapplicator across the surface of the filler toachieve the correct contour and to level thefiller surface. As soon as a contour thatapproximates to the correct one is achieved,stop working the paste - if you carry on toolong the paste will become sticky and begin to“pick up” on the applicator. Continue to addthin layers of filler paste at twenty-minuteintervals until the level of the filler is just proudof the surrounding bodywork.

Once the filler has hardened, excess can beremoved using a metal plane or file. From thenon, progressively finer grades of abrasivepaper should be used, starting with a 40grade production paper and finishing with 400grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap theabrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork, orwooden block - otherwise the surface of thefiller will not be completely flat. During thesmoothing of the filler surface the wet-and-drypaper should be periodically rinsed in water.This will ensure that a very smooth finish isimparted to the filler at the final stage.

At this stage the “dent” should besurrounded by a ring of bare metal, which inturn should be encircled by the finely“feathered” edge of the good paintwork.Rinse the repair area with clean water, until allof the dust produced by the rubbing-downoperation has gone.

Spray the whole repair area with a light coatof primer - this will show up any imperfectionsin the surface of the filler. Repair theseimperfections with fresh filler paste orbodystopper, and once more smooth thesurface with abrasive paper. If bodystopper isused, it can be mixed with cellulose thinnersto form a really thin paste which is ideal for

filling small holes. Repeat this spray andrepair procedure until you are satisfied thatthe surface of the filler, and the featherededge of the paintwork are perfect. Clean therepair area with clean water and allow to dryfully.

The repair area is now ready for finalspraying. Paint spraying must be carried outin a warm, dry, windless and dust freeatmosphere. This condition can be createdartificially if you have access to a large indoorworking area, but if you are forced to work inthe open, you will have to pick your day verycarefully. If you are working indoors, dousingthe floor in the work area with water will helpto settle the dust which would otherwise be inthe atmosphere. If the repair area is confinedto one body panel, mask off the surroundingpanels; this will help to minimise the effects ofa slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodyworkfittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)will also need to be masked off. Use genuinemasking tape and several thicknesses ofnewspaper for the masking operations.

Before commencing to spray, agitate theaerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area(an old tin, or similar) until the technique ismastered. Cover the repair area with a thickcoat of primer; the thickness should be builtup using several thin layers of paint ratherthan one thick one. Using 400 grade wet-and-dry paper, rub down the surface of the primeruntil it is really smooth. While doing this, thework area should be thoroughly doused withwater, and the wet-and-dry paper periodicallyrinsed in water. Allow to dry before sprayingon more paint.

Spray on the top coat, again building up thethickness by using several thin layers of paint.Start spraying in the centre of the repair areaand then work outwards, with a side-to-sidemotion, until the whole repair area and about2 inches of the surrounding original paintworkis covered. Remove all masking material 10 to15 minutes after spraying on the final coat ofpaint.

Allow the new paint at least two weeks toharden, then, using a paintwork renovator or avery fine cutting paste, blend the edges of thepaint into the existing paintwork. Finally, applywax polish.

Plastic componentsWith the use of more and more plastic body

components by the vehicle manufacturers (egbumpers, spoilers, and in some cases majorbody panels), rectification of more seriousdamage to such items has become a matterof either entrusting repair work to a specialistin this field, or renewing completecomponents. Repair of such damage by theDIY owner is not really feasible owing to thecost of the equipment and materials requiredfor effecting such repairs. The basic techniqueinvolves making a groove along the line of thecrack in the plastic using a rotary burr in apower drill. The damaged part is then weldedback together by using a hot air gun to heat

up and fuse a plastic filler rod into the groove.Any excess plastic is then removed and thearea rubbed down to a smooth finish. It isimportant that a filler rod of the correct plasticis used, as body components can be made ofa variety of different types (eg polycarbonate,ABS, polypropylene).

Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIYowner using a two-part epoxy filler repairmaterial. Once mixed in equal proportions,this is used in similar fashion to the bodyworkfiller used on metal panels. The filler is usuallycured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready forsanding and painting.

If the owner is renewing a completecomponent himself, or if he has repaired itwith epoxy filler, he will be left with theproblem of finding a suitable paint for finishingwhich is compatible with the type of plasticused. At one time the use of a universal paintwas not possible owing to the complex rangeof plastics encountered in body componentapplications. Standard paints, generallyspeaking, will not bond to plastic or rubbersatisfactorily. However, it is now possible toobtain a plastic body parts finishing kit whichconsists of a pre-primer treatment, a primerand coloured top coat. Full instructions arenormally supplied with a kit, but basically themethod of use is to first apply the pre-primerto the component concerned and allow it todry for up to 30 minutes. Then the primer isapplied and left to dry for about an hourbefore finally applying the special colouredtop coat. The result is a correctly colouredcomponent where the paint will flex with theplastic or rubber, a property that standardpaint does not normally possess.

4 Major body damage - repair 5Where serious damage has occurred or

large areas need renewal due to neglect, itmeans certainly that completely new sectionsor panels will need welding in and this is bestleft to professionals. If the damage is due toimpact, it will also be necessary to completelycheck the alignment of the bodyshellstructure. Due to the principle of construction,the strength and shape of the whole car canbe affected by damage to one part. In suchinstances the services of a Ford agent withspecialist checking jigs are essential. If a bodyis left misaligned, it is first of all dangerous asthe car will not handle properly, and secondlyuneven stresses will be imposed on thesteering, engine and transmission, causingabnormal wear or complete failure. Tyre wearmay also be excessive.

Bodywork and fittings 11•3

11

5 Bonnet - removal and refitting 2Removal1 Open the bonnet and support it by using aprop or have an assistant hold it.2 Undo and remove the bolt which securesthe stay at one end (see illustration).3 Remove the radiator grille.4 Mark an outline around the hinge plates toaid realignment of the bonnet when refitting it,then undo the four hinge bolts and lift thebonnet clear.

Refitting5 Refit by reversing the removal operations. Ifa new bonnet is being installed, position it sothat an equal gap is provided at each sidewhen it is being closed.6 The bonnet should close smoothly andpositively without excessive pressure. If itdoes not, carry out the following adjustment.7 Loosen the bolts retaining the bonnet lockunit on the bulkhead plenum chamber cover,then locate the bonnet so that the clearancebetween it and the cowl panel is as shown(see illustration). Align the bonnet so that thegap between it and the wing panels is evenand set at the clearance shown.

8 Lower or raise the lock unit so that thebonnet is level with the cowl panel and wings.Tighten the securing bolts and recheck thebonnet alignment and release unit forsatisfactory operation.

6 Bonnet components -removal and refitting 2

Release cable1 Working inside the vehicle, extract the threescrews and remove the steering columnshroud. Open the bonnet. Releasing thebonnet when the cable is broken is not easy:support the car securely on axle stands orramps. Reach up between the bulkhead andremove the bolts securing the lock unit to theplenum chamber cover plate. The bonnetshould be free to lift.2 Draw the cable sideways and disengagethe inner cable nipple from the release lever.3 On the engine compartment side of thebulkhead, detach the cable grommet from thelocation bracket on the bonnet lock unit, anddisconnect the cable from the lock (seeillustration).

4 Withdraw the cable through the bulkheadand into the car interior for removal.5 Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure. On completion check theoperation of the release mechanism beforeshutting the bonnet and again afterwards.

Lock 6 Open and support the bonnet. 7 Detach the cable grommet from thelocation bracket on the lock unit anddisconnect the cable from the lock. 8 Undo the two retaining bolts and withdrawthe lock unit from the plenum chamber coverplate. 9 Refit by reversing the removal procedure. Ifnecessary adjust the position of the lock unitprior to fully tightening the retaining bolts.

7 Radiator grille - removal andrefitting 1

1 Grip each end of the radiator grille and pullit upwards to detach it from its lower support(see illustration), then withdraw it anddisconnect it from the three top fasteners.2 Refitting is the reversal of removal.


5.2 Bonnet stay retaining bolts (arrowed)

6.3 Bonnet release cable-to-lock attachment 7.1 Radiator grille removal; pull up (A), pull out (B) and then swingthe grille downwards

5.7 Bonnet surround clearance to wing (A) and to the cowl panel (B)

8 Tailgate - removal andrefitting 2

1 Open the tailgate fully and disconnect theleads from the heated rear window and thewiper (where fitted). 2 From the top edge of the tailgate aperture,remove the weatherstrip and then peel backthe headlining. 3 With an assistant supporting the tailgate,unbolt and remove the struts. The strutballjoint is released by prising out the smallplastic peg.4 Make an outline marking around the hingemounting positions to provide an alignmentguide when refitting the tailgate.

5 Unscrew the hinge nuts (see illustration),remove them with the washers and lift thetailgate from the vehicle.6 The tailgate lock and (if fitted) the wipermotor are accessible for removal once thetrim panel has been released from its securingclips. 7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but do notfully tighten the hinge screws until the tailgatehas been adjusted to give the correctalignment (see illustration).

9 Tailgate components -removal and refitting 2

Lock barrel1 Open and support the tailgate.2 Unclip and detach the tailgate trim panel.3 Unclip and detach the rod from the plasticlever (see illustration).4 Slide the lock retainer along so that itsexposed large aperture aligns with the lockbarrel, then remove the retainer and extractthe lock unit and pad from the tailgate.5 Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure.

Latch6 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 3. 7 Undo the three screws and remove thelatch unit, together with the lever and rod (seeillustration). 8 Refit reversing the removal procedure.Check that the latch is fitted so that the rodand lever are in alignment with the end of thelock barrel.

Latch remote release 9 A remotely controlled, electrically operatedtailgate release is fitted to certain latermodels. The main component is asolenoid/thermal switch assembly, which isonly supplied complete (even though only onesection of the assembly to be renewed maybe faulty).

10 Remove the latch assembly.11 Remove the solenoid fixing screws andunhook the operating rod, then withdraw thesolenoid assembly.12 Refitting is a reversal of removal, butmake sure that the operating rod is securelyengaged in the nylon actuator.

Striker13 Open and support the tailgate.14 Make an outline marking around thestriker to provide an alignment guide whenrefitting it.15 Undo the two retaining bolts and removethem, together with the washers, thenwithdraw the striker.16 Refit in the reverse order to removal.Check that the striker is correctly aligned withthe previously made outline marking beforefully tightening the retaining bolts.

Strut (damper unit)17 Open the tailgate and support it with aprop or get an assistant to support it.18 Using a screwdriver as shown (seeillustration), prise free and release the strutretaining peg at each end and remove thestrut by pulling it free from the joints.19 Refit in the reverse order to removal.


9.3 Tailgate lock barrel clip (A), cylinder(B) and retainer (C)

9.18 Tailgate damper strut detachment9.7 Tailgate latch and securing screws

8.7 Tailgate-to-roof alignment clearance and to weatherstrip flange

11

8.5 Tailgate hinge retaining nuts (arrowed)

10 Doors - removal and refitting 21 Open the door fully and support its loweredge on a jack or blocks covered with a padof rag. 2 Three different types of hinge pins havebeen used in production (see illustrations)and the particular method of removal for eachtype is given in the following paragraphs:

Roll pins 3 Detach and remove the plastic plugs fromthe hinge pins. 4 Using a suitable length of rod or, ifavailable, Ford special tool 41.002, drift outthe hinge pins: knocking them downwards.Get an assistant to support and steady thedoor during this operation.

Solid pins

Permanent5 Where these pins are used, door removal isonly possible after unbolting the hinges fromthe body. The fixing nuts can be reached afterremoving the side trim panel at the footwelland the facia panel lower cover.

Removable6 This type of hinge pin can be removed afterextracting the circlip and prising or tapping thepin downwards. The lower hinge pin cannot beremoved and the hinge must be unbolted.

Both types7 Lift the door clear of the stubs and remove it. 8 Refit the door reversing the removalprocedure. Lubricate the hinges and pins asthey are fitted and ensure that the hinge pinholes are correctly aligned when drifting thenew hinge pins into position.

11 Door components - removaland refitting 3

Mirror and glass 1 To renew the glass, prise free the retainerfrom the mirror body using a coin or similarsuitable lever and remove the glass (seeillustration).2 Locate the new glass into position andpress the new retainer evenly around itsperimeter onto the body. Check that theretainer is fully engaged on completion.3 To remove the mirror unit complete, prisefree the plastic cover from the adjustmentknob using a suitable screwdriver.4 Remove the knob and door trim panel. 5 Support the mirror body and unscrew andremove the two securing nuts through theaperture in the door inner panel (seeillustration). Remove the mirror and gasket.6 Refit in the reverse order of removalensuring that the mirror-to-body gasket iscorrectly aligned before tightening thesecuring nuts.

Trim panel 7 Carefully prise free the cover pads from thewindow winder handle, the door mirroradjuster and the trim panel (one at the forwardedge and one at the lower edge in the centre)(see illustrations).


10.2a Door hinge roll pin 10.2c Upper door hinge solid pin(removable)

11.7c . . . and the trim panel11.7b . . . the door mirror adjuster . . .11.7a Remove cover pad from the windowregulator handle . . .

11.5 Door mirror attachment nuts(arrowed)

11.1 Door mirror glass retainer removal

10.2b Door hinge solid pin (permanent)

8 With the pads removed, unscrew andremove the retaining screws (seeillustrations).9 Undo and remove the door control handlebezel retaining screw and withdraw the bezel(see illustration).10 Remove the door pull/armrest which issecured by two screws.11 Carefully prise free and remove the panelfrom the door (see illustration). 12 Withdraw the insulating washer from thewindow winder handle shaft then carefullypeel back the plastic insulating screen fromthe door for access to the components withinthe door cavity.13 Refit the panel in the reverse order ofremoval.

Lock14 Remove the door trim panel and insulationscreen.15 Detach the lock rod from the latch thenpull the retainer from the door cylinder (seeillustration).16 Withdraw the lock cylinder, together withthe lock rod, from the door.17 Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure. When inserting the lock cylinder,ensure that the cylinder lever points towardsthe front of the car and check that the lockbarrel is correctly aligned before fitting theretainer.

Latch unit18 Remove the door trim panel and insulationscreen. 19 Unclip and detach the remote control rod,the exterior handle rod and the lock cylinderrods from the latch levers (see illustration).

20 Undo the three screws and remove thelatch unit, manoeuvring it free from the rear ofthe glass rim extension (see illustration).21 Detach the private lock rod from the latchthen the retaining clips and black bush fromthe levers (see illustration).22 Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure. To ease refitting of the black bushand sliding clip soak them in hot water prior tofitting. When fitting the latch unit into positionit must be in its closed position. Check that allcontrol rod securing clips are secure beforerefitting the door trim assembly.

Remote control handle23 Remove the door trim panel and insulationscreen.24 Unclip and detach the remote control rodfrom the latch then push free the anti-rattleretainer from the door.


11.8c Remove the trim panel retainingscrews

11.21 Latch lever black bush (A), fixedclips (B) and sliding clip (C)

11.20 Door latch

11.19 Door latch and rod attachments

A Private lock rod and bushB Lock rod (exterior)C Exterior handle rodD Remote control rod

11.15 Door lock barrel (A), retainer (B),lock rod (C) and clip (D)

11.11 Prise free the door panel andlocating clips

11.9 Remove the door control handlebezel screw

11.8b . . . and withdraw the regulatorhandle

11.8a Remove retaining screws . . .

11

25 Undo the two screws securing the remotecontrol handle (see illustration).26 Fully raise the window, manoeuvre thehandle and rod into the door cavity,disconnect the rod from the handle andextract the handle and rod.27 Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure. When refitting the handle to theinner door panel move it as far as possible tothe rear before tightening the retainingscrews.

Striker plate28 Loosen the striker locknut then unscrewand remove the striker, together with washer,from the door pillar (see illustration).29 To refit the striker, locate the washer ontothe threaded end of the striker so that thecone apex is adjacent to the nut face. Screwthe striker into position, but do not fullytighten it yet.30 Close and open the door and align thestriker with the latch (see illustration). Whenthe door shuts in a satisfactory manner openit and retighten the locknut to set the striker inthe required position.

Exterior handle31 Remove the door trim panel and insulationscreen.32 Detach the lock rod from the latch nutthen unscrew and remove the handle retainingscrews (see illustration). Remove the handleand lock rod from the door.33 Refit in the reverse order of removal.When inserting the lock rod into the handlethe rod latch end must face to the rear. Smearthe end of the rod with Vaseline to easeassembly.

Window regulators34 Remove the door trim panel and insulationscreen. 35 Adjust the window position so that theregulator and bracket are accessible throughthe lower aperture in the door inner panel (seeillustration). 36 Use a suitable bit and drill through thefour window regulator-to-inner panel securingrivets (see illustration). 37 Press the regulator into the door cavity,then slide the regulator arm to the rear anddisengage it from the slide.

38 Push the window upwards into the closedposition, support it with a prop and thencarefully withdraw the window regulator fromthe door cavity. 39 Refit in the reverse order of removal, butnote the following: 40 Locate the regulator into its approximateposition with the winder shaft resting on doorpanel aperture; then, with the window loweredto align its bracket with the aperture in thedoor inner panel, re-engage the regulator arm.Align the regulator unit rivet holes and using apop rivet gun, secure the regulator with fourpop-rivets.41 Check the window regulator operationprior to refitting the door trim panel andinsulating screen.


11.25 Door remote control handle (B),retaining screws (A) and bezel (C)

11.30 Adjust striker position to align withthe latch throat centre line

11.32 Door exterior handle retainingscrews viewed from within the door

11.28 Door striker

11.35 Door window regulator components

A RegulatorB Door inner panelC Regulator attachmentD Anti-rattle padE Door trim padF EscutcheonG Regulator handleH Securing rivetsJ BezelK Regulator handle screw

11.36 Window regulator-to-door panelsecuring rivets

12 Door windows - removal andrefitting 3

Quarter windows

Fixed type1 Lower the door window then remove thedoor trim panel and insulation screen. 2 Carefully prise free and remove the innerand outer door belt weatherstrips (seeillustrations).

3 Pull the window channel weatherstriprubber down and undo screw B (seeillustration) from the frame top corner.4 Undo the lower retaining screw, pull thechannel rearwards to an angle of 45° andremove it.5 Carefully prise free the triangularweatherstrip from its adhesive pad andretaining clips which untwist for removal.6 Prise free the weatherstrip and glass fromthe door, then detach the weatherstrip fromthe glass (if required).7 Refit in the reverse order of removal.Lubricate the weatherstrip with soapy water toease its fitting to the glass. When refitting theglass and weatherstrip to the door insert asfar forwards as possible. Clean off all soapywater from the weatherstrip prior to peelingoff the backing paper from the adhesive padand pressing it into position. If a new pad isnot being fitted stick some double-sidedadhesive tape to the old pad before fitting.

Opening type8 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 and 2in the previous Section.9 Pull the window channel weatherstripdownwards and undo the retaining screwfrom the top end of the frame.

10 Detach the clips from the triangular portionof the weatherstrip and peel it away from thedoor frame to which it is retained by adhesive.11 Prise free (taking care) the quarter windowand channel, final removal of the channelbeing achieved by drilling out the two poprivets (see illustrations).12 Refit in the reverse order of removal.13 Ease refitting of the weatherstrip byapplying soapy water to it. Avoid getting thesoapy water onto the adhesive pad.14 When fitting the window and channelcheck that the glass is located in the channel.Insert and, if required, push the weatherstripvertical section upwards to get the window tofit correctly at the top corner.15 When fitted, adjust the channel byloosening the upper and lower retainingscrews so that the glass does not tilt in itsframe, then retighten the screws.

Main windows16 Remove the door quarter window.17 Slide the door glass forward to detach theregulator arm from the glass bracket/slide(see illustration).18 Support the glass, holding it towards theinnermost edge of the window opening, andwithdraw it from the door.19 Refit in the reverse order of removal. Tiltthe glass down at the front end when insertingit into the door. Lubricate the regulator slideand check window operation prior to refittingthe door trim panel.


12.3 Quarter window channel (A), upperfixing (B), lower fixing (C) and

adhesive pad (D)

12.17 Door window regulator armdetachment

12.11b Quarter window catch components

A HandleB GlassC Bush

D Seal washerE End cap screwF End cap

12.2b Outer door belt weatherstripremoval

A Retaining clip B Clip installed

Note: remove bright external moulding on Land GLS models

12.2a Inner door belt weatherstrip removal

11

12.11a Quarter window (opening)attachments

A Upper screwB RivetsC Lower screw

D Glass retainingscrew

E Seal washer

13 Tailgate and fixed rearquarter windows - removaland refitting

51 It is advisable to entrust this operation to aspecialist who will have the special toolswhich are necessary to remove and fit theglass to vehicle body seals.

14 Windscreen - removal andrefitting 5

1 It is advisable to entrust this operation to aspecialist who will have the special toolswhich are necessary to remove and fit theglass to vehicle body seals.

15 Interior mirror - removal andrefitting 2

1 The interior mirror is bonded to thewindscreen glass. If it must be removed, use alength of thin nylon cord (see illustration) tobreak the adhesive bond between the stem ofthe mirror and the windscreen patch.2 When refitting the mirror, the followingpreliminary work must first be carried out.3 Remove existing adhesive from thewindscreen glass using a suitable solvent.Allow the solvent to evaporate. The location ofthe mirror base is marked on the glass with ablack patch, so that there should not be anychance of an error when fitting.4 If the original mirror is being refitted, cleanaway all the old adhesive from the mirrormounting base, and apply a new adhesivepatch to it.5 If a new windscreen is being installed, peeloff the protective layer from the black patch,which is pre-coated with adhesive.6 Peel off the protective layer from the mirroradhesive patch and locate the mirror preciselyonto the black patch on the screen. Hold it inposition for at least two minutes.7 For best results, the fitting of a bonded typemirror should be carried out in an ambienttemperature of 70°C (158°F). The careful use

of a blower heater on both the glass andmirror should achieve this temperature level.Take necessary precautions to avoid burns.

16 Bumpers - removal andrefitting 2

Front bumper

Metal centre section type1 From underneath each front wing, undoand remove the two bumper retaining nuts(see illustration). 2 Disengage the quarter bumper retainereach side then, from the front of the car, gripthe bumper and pull it free. 3 Refit reversing the removal procedure.Check that the quarter bumper retainers arefully engaged each side and that the bumperis aligned correctly.

All moulded type4 From underneath each front wing, undoand remove the bumper retaining nuts.5 Open the bonnet and unscrew the bumperretaining nut beneath each headlamp unit(see illustration).6 Disengage the quarter bumper retainereach side, then, from the front of the car, gripthe bumper and pull it free.7 Refit reversing the removal procedure.Check that the quarter bumper retainers arefully engaged each side and that the bumperis correctly aligned.

Front quarter bumpers

Metal centre section type8 Use a pair of suitable pliers and detach thequarter bumper retaining tangs, as shown(see illustration).9 Once removed the quarter bumper must berenewed.10 Refit by pushing the quarter bumper intoposition on the metal section.

All moulded type11 Prise out and remove the moulding stripfrom the quarter bumper to expose theretainer heads.12 Use a chisel and remove the rivet headsfrom the upper retainer, then press out therivets.13 Prise open and detach the bumper-to-quarter bumper retaining clips (seeillustration), then remove the quarter bumper.14 Clean the moulding recess out withmethylated spirit to remove the adhesive.15 Align and fit the quarter bumper to themain bumper and locate the securing clipsand rivets.16 Using a blowlamp, or similar, verycarefully heat the new moulding so that it iswarm to the touch then detach the backingpaper from the moulding and locate themoulding into the quarter bumper channelrecess, pressing it firmly into position.

Rear bumper17 Open the tailgate and lift out the floor coverand tool tray from the luggage compartment.


15.1 Break adhesive bond of mirror towindscreen using cord

16.5 Bumper retaining nut in enginecompartment

16.13 Fully moulded quarter bumperattachments

A MouldingB Quarter bumper

C Retaining clips16.8 Quarter bumper retaining tangremoval

16.1 Bumper retaining nuts under wingpanel

18 Detach the number plate wiring.19 Undo the bumper retaining nuts from therear face of the floor area on each side, thengrip the bumper and withdraw it, simultaneouslydisengaging the quarter bumpers each side.20 Refit in the reverse order to removal.Renew the rubber seal washers on thebumper retaining studs if they are perished orin poor condition. Ensure that the quarterbumper retainers fully engage when fitting.

17 Spoilers - removal andrefitting 2

Front1 Undo and remove the front spoiler retainingscrews, two each side, from the positionsindicated (see illustration).2 The spoiler is further attached to the frontpanel by rivets, nine at the front and one at thetop leading edge of the wheel arch spidereach side. Use a suitable drill (4.5 mmdiameter) and drill out the rivets (seeillustration).3 The spoiler can now be withdrawn.4 Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure, but use the proper Ford rivets tosecure the spoiler as they have a plastic bodycoating to protect against corrosion.

Wheel arches

Front 5 Raise and support the vehicle at the front.Remove the roadwheel on the side concernedfor access to the underside of the spoiler.6 Undo and remove the five retaining nutsand two retaining screws from the positionsindicated (see illustration).7 Use a 4.5 mm diameter drill and drill out theseven securing rivets from the locationsindicated (see illustration).8 Detach the spoiler retaining studs from thewheel arch, then grip the spoiler on its lowercorner and pull it to disengage it from thepushfit fasteners.9 To remove the plastic fasteners from the sillpanel and wing edge, insert a self-tappingscrew into them and pull them free.10 Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure.

Rear 11 Raise and support the rear of the vehicleon safety stands, remove the wheel on theside concerned for access to the spoilerunderside. 12 Remove the rear bumper.13 Undo and remove the two retainingscrews from the wheel arch flange.14 The spoiler is secured by five rivets (seeillustration). Carefully drill out the rivets usinga 4.5 mm diameter drill.15 Remove the two screws from the wheelarch and rear panel moulding joint.16 Grip the moulding at the rear and pull itfree from the wheel arch/rocker panel andpush-fit fasteners. The moulding isadditionally secured by means of adhesivetape to the bodywork, and the bond betweenthe two must be broken carefully.17 Remove the plastic fasteners from thewheel arch and rocker panel by inserting aself-tapping screw and pulling them free (seeillustration). Remove any adhesive taperemaining in position on the bodywork ormoulding. 18 Clean the areas of contact for theadhesive tape with methylated spirits. Insertnew plastic fasteners in place of thoseremoved.19 Carefully warm up the spoiler tapechannel until it is warm to the touch. (Use ablow lamp, or similar, but take great care).20 Apply primer and the new length ofadhesive tape to the spider, then fit the spoilerfront edge under the sill panel moulding,detach the protector film from the tape and

locate the spoiler pressing firmly home intothe push-in fasteners. Smooth the spiderdown and check that its top edge contactsthe body along its full length.21 Refitting is now a reversal of the removalprocedure. Use Ford special rivets to securethe spoiler and leave tightening the retainingscrews until after the rivets are fitted.

18 Facia crash padding andvents - removal and refitting 3

Removal1 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 2 Remove the steering wheel. 3 Remove the steering column shrouds andcombination switches.


17.6 Front wheel arch spoiler retainingnuts (A), joint screws (B) and rear lower

corner (C)

17.17 Rear wheel arch removalInset shows method of withdrawing theplastic fasteners

17.14 Rear wheel arch spoiler flangescrew (A) and rivet positions

17.7 Front wheel arch spoiler rivetpositions (A)

17.2 Drill out the front spoiler retainingrivets

17.1 Front spoiler attachment screwpositions (A)

11

9 Undo the heater control panel mountingscrews (see illustration). Push the bulbholders forwards to the underside of the crashpad.10 Detach the screw covers from the top ofthe crash pad (see illustration).11 Detach the glovebox light wires and pullthe wires through to the underside of thecrash pad.12 Undo and remove the six crash padretaining screws and carefully withdraw thecrash pad facia. The strengthening bar at the

base can be removed as the facia crash padis withdrawn.13 The centre and side vents can bedetached from the facia crash pad by undoingthe retaining screws (see illustrations).

Refitting14 Refit in the reverse order of removal.Ensure that all electrical connections arecorrectly and securely made. On completion,check the operation of the variousinstruments and controls.

19 Sunroof components -removal and refitting 3

Panel1 Compress the sunroof catch each side todisengage the handle pins from the bracket.Lift the roof panel, detach the stop clip andremove the panel (see illustration).


18.6 Heater control panel retaining screws

18.9 Heater control panel and facia panel retaining screwpositions

18.13b Side vent retaining screw18.13a Central vent retaining screws

18.10 Heater control panel and crash pad retaining screwpositions

Note position of strengthening bar (A)

18.8 Choke control unit removal

4 Disconnect the bonnet release handle.5 Disconnect and remove the following items:a) Facia trim and instrument cluster unitb) Radio (where applicable)c) Fuse/relay boxd) Indicator and facia switches

6 Remove the heater control panel (seeillustration).7 Detach and remove the carpet fromunderneath the dashboard.8 Where applicable, remove the choke controlcable housing which is secured by a singlescrew, then remove the choke knob and pushthe choke cable and switch forwards throughthe crash pad (see illustration).

2 If the sunroof panel is being renewed, undothe hinge plate retaining screws and remove itfrom the pedestal block. Remove the handlepivot retainers in a similar manner andwithdraw the adjusting washer(s) from thehandle screw block, then detach the blockfrom the panel. Pull free the seal and pedestalblock covers from the panel.3 Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure, but note the following:4 When fitting a new seal to the roof tray

flange, the seal ends must abut in the centreof the rear flange. Cut the seal to length asrequired (see illustration). 5 When assembling the handle screw blockto the panel, locate the shim, fit the block legsinto their holes in the glass and then fit thewasher onto each block leg.6 If necessary, the hinge plates can beadjusted (see illustration).7 When the panel is fitted and closed, checkthe height of the roof tray and adjust, if

required, by adding or subtracting washersunder the handle so that the roof line is flushto the panel (see illustration).

Handle bracket 8 Remove the sunroof panel then undo andremove the handle cap securing screw. Lowerand remove the handle cup.9 Undo the two bracket retaining bolts andremove the bracket. Collect and note anyadjustment washers (see illustration).10 Refit in the reverse order of removal andadjust it as described in paragraph 7.

Hinge retainer11 Remove the sunroof panel and thencarefully prise free and remove the roofaperture weatherstrip.12 Detach the headlining securing clips fromthe aperture flange and then pull down theheadlining (with care) to expose the retainerand its securing screws.13 Undo the retainer securing screws andwithdraw it, together with its seal (seeillustration).14 Refit in the reverse order of removal, butfit a new retainer seal.


19.13 Sunroof hinge retainer removal19.9 Undo the bracket retaining bolts

19.6 Hinge plate adjustment direction19.4 Sunroof glass weatherstrip jointlocation

19.7 Adjust roof panel height position byinserting (or removing) washers as required

11

19.1 Glass sunroof components

A ScrewB Hinge plateC Pedestal blockD Handle screw block

E ShimF SpacerG Pivot blockH Handle

20 Seat belts - removal andrefitting 2

Belts and stalks - front1 Undo the lower anchor bar retaining boltand remove the bar rear end from themounting panel.2 Remove the cover from the upper anchorand disconnect the upper anchor (seeillustration).3 From the rear quarter panel trim, removethe belt webbing guide and let the belt retractonto its reel.4 Detach and withdraw the quarter trimpanel.5 Undo the inertia reel unit retaining bolt andremove the reel unit (see illustration).6 The stalk and buckle unit can be detachedby unscrewing the single retaining bolt, butnote the locations of the washer, spacer andpaper washer as they are removed (seeillustration).

7 Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure, but note the following specialpoints:8 When fitting the inertia reel unit check thatthe locating pegs engage fully.9 When fitting the upper anchorage checkthat the webbing does not get twisted andalso that the anti-rotation peg engages fullyinto the pillar.10 Tighten the retaining bolts to the specifiedtorque wrench settings. 11 Check the seat belt for satisfactoryoperation when the seats are readjusted totheir normal positions.

Belts - rear12 Prise free and pivot up the inertia reel unitcover (if fitted) then undo and remove theretaining bolt (see illustration).13 Remove the rear seat cushion and pushthe buckles through the cushion slit as it iswithdrawn.14 Unscrew the six buckle and lower anchorretaining screws (see illustration).15 Remove the C pillar anchor point coversand disconnect the upper anchors.16 Prise free the webbing guides from thepackage tray supports and remove the guideswhilst letting the webbing wind into the reel.

17 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Whenfitting the reel unit to the quarter panel checkthat the location peg engages fully into itshole. Check that the webbing does not gettwisted during refitting. Tighten the retainingbolts to the specified torque wrench setting. 18 On completion check that the beltoperation is satisfactory.

21 Seats - removal and refitting 2Front seat1 Slide the seat as far forward as it will go. 2 Unscrew and remove the bolts which retainthe rear of the seat slides to the floorpan. 3 Slide the seat as far to the rear as it will goand remove the bolts which secure the frontends of the slides to the floor. 4 Remove the seat from the vehicle interior. 5 If the seat slides must be detached from theseat, invert the seat and remove the two boltsfrom each side. Detach the cross-rod and clips.


20.2 Seat belt upper anchor components

A Paper washerB SpacerC Anti-rotation

spacer

D AnchorE BushF Bolt

20.6 Seat belt stalk and bucklecomponents

A BoltB CoverC Stalk and buckles

D WasherE SpacerF Paper washer

20.14 Rear seat belt anchorage points

A Inertia reel anchor pointsB Centre lap beltC Inertia reel buckles

D Inertia reel bucklesE Centre lap buckleF Inertia reel anchor point

20.12 Inertia reel mounting (rear seats)

A Peg locating holeB Locating peg

C Mounting boltD Mounting

20.5 Seat belt inertia reel retaining bolt

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tightenthe front bolts before the rear ones to ensurethat the seat is located evenly on the floorpan.

Rear seat

Cushion 7 Undo the two cushion retaining screwsfrom the positions indicated (see illustration). 8 Disengage the cushion from the retainerhooks at the rear then lift out the cushion. 9 Refit in the reverse order to removal.

Backrest10 Hinge the rear seat panel forwards thenunscrew and remove the four rear panelretaining screws. Lift out the panel.11 Where both rear seat panels and also thecentre hinge are to be removed, first removethe panels then mark the outline of the hingearound its periphery to ensure correctrealignment when refitting it. Undo theretaining bolts and withdraw the hinge.12 Refit in the reverse order of removal. Align

the hinge correctly before tightening theretaining screws. Check that the panelengages with its retaining catch oncompletion.

22 Rear wheel arch cover -removal and refitting 2

1 Open the tailgate and lift out the luggagecompartment floor covers.2 Detach the rear shock absorber uppermounting cover.3 Pivot the seat panel forwards and thenremove the seat striker and cover.4 Detach the side panel fasteners (seeillustration), then pull out the panel at the rearend and detach the interior lamp wiring.5 Detach the panel cover at the top edge,beneath the parcel shelf support, move thecover rearwards and disconnect it from thequarter panel trim. Lift the panel out of the car.

6 Refit in the reverse order to removal. Ifnecessary adjust the position of the rear seatstriker on completion.

23 Body mouldings - removaland refitting 2

Body side mouldings1 Using a thin-bladed screwdriver, prise awaythe moulding insert strip, carefully leveringfrom the lower edge.2 The moulding is secured by rivets andthese can be drilled out using a 3.0 mm drill.With the rivets drilled through, the mouldingcan be removed (see illustration).3 Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure, but you will need a pop-rivet gunand supply of suitable rivets to secure themoulding. Check its alignment as themoulding is secured in position.


23.2 Body side moulding rivet locations (except XR2)

22.4 Wheel arch side panel fasteners (A)21.7 Rear seat cushion securing screw positions

11

4 Where a new moulding is being fitted youwill need to first drill the rivet holes in it. Usethe old moulding as a suitable template to drillthe holes in the new moulding.

Tailgate aperture mouldings5 Prise free or drill a hole in and hook out theupper moulding retaining screw caps thenundo and remove the screws (seeillustration).6 The upper moulding is now removed bycarefully cutting through the adhesive tapewhich secures it in position along the frontand rear edges. Use a soft-edge razor bladeor similar to slice through the tape. Take carenot to cut into the moulding or paintwork.7 With the tailgate open, prise back thequarter trim to gain access to the lowermoulding securing nut. Undo and remove thenut (see illustration). 8 Gripping the moulding at its top end, pull itaway from the body panel so that theadhesive bond is broken, and remove themoulding. 9 Remove any adhesive tape still remainingon the body panel, wiping it off with a ragdipped in methylated spirit.

10 Before refitting, the mouldings will need tobe heated so that they are warm to the touchand the contact surfaces coated in primer,followed by the adhesive tape.11 Refitting is otherwise now a reversal of theremoval procedure.

Sill panel moulding12 Raise and support the car at the front end(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).13 Use a 4.5 mm drill and drill out themoulding-to-sill rivets from the positionsindicated (see illustration).

14 Grip the moulding and pull it free from thecar, pulling from its lower edge. The top edgeis secured in position by press fit retainersand adhesive tape and should just pull free. Ifthe top edge of the sill is reluctant to separate,carefully slit the adhesive tape along its lengthusing a safe-edge razor or similar.15 Clean the old adhesive from the sill panelusing methylated spirit.16 Before refitting the moulding it will need tobe heated so that it is warm to the touch, thecontact surfaces coated in primer and theadhesive tape applied.17 Press the moulding into position along itstop edge, ensuring that it is fully secured andcorrectly located in the retainers. Press andsmooth the moulding down to ensure that itadheres to the sill along the full length.18 Using a suitable pop-rivet gun, insert pop-rivets to secure the panel along its loweredge, but use only the special plastic cappedtype rivets supplied by Ford.19 On completion lower the vehicle to theground.


23.5 Remove moulding screw cap foraccess to screw

23.13 Sill panel retaining rivet positions23.7 Tailgate moulding lower retaining nut removal

REF

Dimensions Saloons and Van XR2Overall length:

Without overriders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3648 mm (143.7 in) -With overriders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3695 mm (145.6 in) 3712 mm (146.3 in)

or 3712 mm (146.3 in)Overall width . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1585 mm (62.4 in) 1620 mm (63.8 in)Overall height:

Maximum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1334 mm (52.6 in) 1334 mm (52.6 in)Minimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1316 mm (51.9 in) 1310 mm (51.6 in)

Wheelbase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2288 mm (90.1 in) 2288 mm (90.1 in)Track:

Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1367 mm (53.9 in) 1385 mm (54.6 in)Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1321 mm (52.0 in) 1339 mm (52.8 in)

WeightsBasic kerb weight:

1.0, 1.1 Base, L and Van . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 765.0 kg (1687 lb)1.1 Ghia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 780.0 kg (1720 lb)1.1S (option) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 797.5 kg (1758 lb)1.3 and 1.4 Base, L, Ghia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 800.0 kg (1764 lb)1.3 and 1.4 S (option) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 812.5 kg (1791 lb)1.6 XR2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 851.0 kg (1876 lb)

Gross vehicle weight:1.0 and 1.1 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1200 kg (2646 lb)1.3 and 1.4 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1225 kg (2701 lb)1.6 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1275 kg (2811 lb)

Dimensions and Weights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF•1Buying Spare Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•3Vehicle Identification Numbers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF•3General Repair Procedures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF•4Jacking and vehicle support . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•5

Tools and Working Facilities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF•6MOT Test Checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•8Fault Finding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF•12Glossary of Technical Terms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF•18Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF•23

Reference REF•1

Dimensions and Weights

Alternative VIN plate location to the rear of the right-hand headlight

REF•2

Vehicle identification number (VIN) plate

1 Type approval number2 Vehicle identification number3 Gross vehicle weight4 Gross train weight5 Permitted front axle loading6 Permitted rear axle loading7 Steering (LHD/RHD)8 Engine9 Gearbox10 Axle (final drive ratio)11 Trim (interior)12 Body type13 Special territory version14 Body colour15 KD reference (usually blank)

Buying spare partsSpare parts are available from many

sources, including maker’s appointedgarages, accessory shops, and motor factors.To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, itwill sometimes be necessary to quote thevehicle identification number. If possible, itcan also be useful to take the old parts alongfor positive identification. Items such asstarter motors and alternators may beavailable under a service exchange scheme -any parts returned should always be clean.

Our advice regarding spare part sources isas follows.

Officially-appointed garagesThis is the best source of parts which are

peculiar to your car, and which are nototherwise generally available (eg badges,interior trim, certain body panels, etc). It isalso the only place at which you should buyparts if the vehicle is still under warranty.

Accessory shopsThese are very good places to buy

materials and components needed for the

maintenance of your car (oil, air and fuelfilters, spark plugs, light bulbs, drivebelts, oilsand greases, brake pads, touch-up paint, etc).Components of this nature sold by areputable shop are of the same standard asthose used by the car manufacturer.

Besides components, these shops also selltools and general accessories, usually haveconvenient opening hours, charge lowerprices, and can often be found not far fromhome. Some accessory shops have partscounters where the components needed foralmost any repair job can be purchased orordered.

Motor factorsGood factors will stock all the more

important components which wear outcomparatively quickly, and can sometimessupply individual components needed for theoverhaul of a larger assembly (eg brake sealsand hydraulic parts, bearing shells, pistons,valves, alternator brushes). They may alsohandle work such as cylinder block reboring,crankshaft regrinding and balancing, etc.

Tyre and exhaust specialistsThese outlets may be independent, or

members of a local or national chain. Theyfrequently offer competitive prices whencompared with a main dealer or local garage,but it will pay to obtain several quotes beforemaking a decision. When researching prices,also ask what “extras” may be added - forinstance, fitting a new valve and balancing thewheel are both commonly charged on top ofthe price of a new tyre.

Other sourcesBeware of parts or materials obtained from

market stalls, car boot sales or similar outlets.Such items are not invariably sub-standard,but there is little chance of compensation ifthey do prove unsatisfactory. In the case ofsafety-critical components such as brakepads, there is the risk not only of financial lossbut also of an accident causing injury or death.

Second-hand components or assembliesobtained from a car breaker can be a goodbuy in some circumstances, but this sort ofpurchase is best made by the experiencedDIY mechanic.

Modifications are a continuing andunpublicised process in vehicle manufacture,quite apart from major model changes. Spareparts lists are compiled upon a numericalbasis, the individual vehicle identificationnumbers being essential to correct identifi-cation of the component concerned.

When ordering spare parts, always give asmuch information as possible. Quote the carmodel, year of manufacture, body and enginenumbers, as appropriate.

The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) islocated on the plate found in the enginecompartment either on the bulkhead or on thefront cross panel directly to the rear of theright-hand headlamp unit (see illustrations).The VIN plate also carries informationconcerning paint colour, final drive ratio, etc.

The engine number on OHV variants islocated on the exhaust side at the flywheelend of the engine. On CVH engines thenumber is located at the timing case end on

the exhaust side (see illustrations).Other identification numbers or codes are

stamped on major items such as the gearbox,final drive housing, distributor etc. Thesenumbers are unlikely to be needed by thehome mechanic.

Buying Spare Parts REF•3

Engine number location - OHV engine

A Engine numberB Engine code

C Engine build date

Engine number location - CVH engine

A Engine numberB Engine code

C Engine number forrepair reference

REF

Vehicle identification numbers

REF•4 General Repair ProceduresWhenever servicing, repair or overhaul work

is carried out on the car or its components,observe the following procedures andinstructions. This will assist in carrying out theoperation efficiently and to a professionalstandard of workmanship.

Joint mating faces and gasketsWhen separating components at their

mating faces, never insert screwdrivers orsimilar implements into the joint between thefaces in order to prise them apart. This cancause severe damage which results in oilleaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.Separation is usually achieved by tappingalong the joint with a soft-faced hammer inorder to break the seal. However, note thatthis method may not be suitable wheredowels are used for component location.

Where a gasket is used between the matingfaces of two components, a new one must befitted on reassembly; fit it dry unless otherwisestated in the repair procedure. Make sure thatthe mating faces are clean and dry, with alltraces of old gasket removed. When cleaning ajoint face, use a tool which is unlikely to scoreor damage the face, and remove any burrs ornicks with an oilstone or fine file.

Make sure that tapped holes are cleanedwith a pipe cleaner, and keep them free ofjointing compound, if this is being used,unless specifically instructed otherwise.

Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipesare clear, and blow through them, preferablyusing compressed air.

Oil sealsOil seals can be removed by levering them

out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver orsimilar implement. Alternatively, a number ofself-tapping screws may be screwed into theseal, and these used as a purchase for pliers orsome similar device in order to pull the seal free.

Whenever an oil seal is removed from itsworking location, either individually or as partof an assembly, it should be renewed.

The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easilydamaged, and will not seal if the surface itcontacts is not completely clean and free fromscratches, nicks or grooves. If the originalsealing surface of the component cannot berestored, and the manufacturer has not madeprovision for slight relocation of the sealrelative to the sealing surface, the componentshould be renewed.

Protect the lips of the seal from any surfacewhich may damage them in the course offitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve wherepossible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil beforefitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the spacebetween the lips with grease.

Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must befitted with their sealing lips toward thelubricant to be sealed.

Use a tubular drift or block of wood of theappropriate size to install the seal and, if theseal housing is shouldered, drive the sealdown to the shoulder. If the seal housing is

unshouldered, the seal should be fitted withits face flush with the housing top face (unlessotherwise instructed).

Screw threads and fasteningsSeized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a

common occurrence where corrosion has setin, and the use of penetrating oil or releasingfluid will often overcome this problem if theoffending item is soaked for a while beforeattempting to release it. The use of an impactdriver may also provide a means of releasingsuch stubborn fastening devices, when usedin conjunction with the appropriatescrewdriver bit or socket. If none of thesemethods works, it may be necessary to resortto the careful application of heat, or the use ofa hacksaw or nut splitter device.

Studs are usually removed by locking twonuts together on the threaded part, and thenusing a spanner on the lower nut to unscrewthe stud. Studs or bolts which have broken offbelow the surface of the component in whichthey are mounted can sometimes be removedusing a stud extractor. Always ensure that ablind tapped hole is completely free from oil,grease, water or other fluid before installingthe bolt or stud. Failure to do this could causethe housing to crack due to the hydraulicaction of the bolt or stud as it is screwed in.

When tightening a castellated nut to accepta split pin, tighten the nut to the specifiedtorque, where applicable, and then tightenfurther to the next split pin hole. Never slackenthe nut to align the split pin hole, unless statedin the repair procedure.

When checking or retightening a nut or boltto a specified torque setting, slacken the nutor bolt by a quarter of a turn, and thenretighten to the specified setting. However,this should not be attempted where angulartightening has been used.

For some screw fastenings, notablycylinder head bolts or nuts, torque wrenchsettings are no longer specified for the latterstages of tightening, “angle-tightening” beingcalled up instead. Typically, a fairly low torquewrench setting will be applied to thebolts/nuts in the correct sequence, followedby one or more stages of tightening throughspecified angles.

Locknuts, locktabs and washersAny fastening which will rotate against a

component or housing during tighteningshould always have a washer between it andthe relevant component or housing.

Spring or split washers should always berenewed when they are used to lock a criticalcomponent such as a big-end bearingretaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which arefolded over to retain a nut or bolt shouldalways be renewed.

Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-critical areas, providing resistance can be feltwhen the locking portion passes over the boltor stud thread. However, it should be notedthat self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose their

effectiveness after long periods of use, andshould then be renewed as a matter of course.

Split pins must always be replaced withnew ones of the correct size for the hole.

When thread-locking compound is foundon the threads of a fastener which is to be re-used, it should be cleaned off with a wirebrush and solvent, and fresh compoundapplied on reassembly.

Special toolsSome repair procedures in this manual

entail the use of special tools such as a press,two or three-legged pullers, spring com-pressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitablereadily-available alternatives to the manu-facturer’s special tools are described, and areshown in use. In some instances, where noalternative is possible, it has been necessaryto resort to the use of a manufacturer’s tool,and this has been done for reasons of safetyas well as the efficient completion of the repairoperation. Unless you are highly-skilled andhave a thorough understanding of theprocedures described, never attempt tobypass the use of any special tool when theprocedure described specifies its use. Notonly is there a very great risk of personalinjury, but expensive damage could becaused to the components involved.

Environmental considerationsWhen disposing of used engine oil, brake

fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration toany detrimental environmental effects. Do not,for instance, pour any of the above liquidsdown drains into the general sewage system,or onto the ground to soak away. Many localcouncil refuse tips provide a facility for wasteoil disposal, as do some garages. If none ofthese facilities are available, consult your localEnvironmental Health Department, or theNational Rivers Authority, for further advice.

With the universal tightening-up of legis-lation regarding the emission of environmen-tally-harmful substances from motor vehicles,most vehicles have tamperproof devices fittedto the main adjustment points of the fuelsystem. These devices are primarily designedto prevent unqualified persons from adjustingthe fuel/air mixture, with the chance of aconsequent increase in toxic emissions. Ifsuch devices are found during servicing oroverhaul, they should, wherever possible, berenewed or refitted in accordance with themanufacturer’s requirements or currentlegislation.

Note: It isantisocial andillegal to dumpoil down thedrain. To findthe location ofyour local oilrecyclingbank, call thisnumber free.

The jack provided with the vehicle isdesigned primarily for emergency wheelchanging, and its use for servicing andoverhaul work on the vehicle is best avoided(see “Wheel changing”). Instead, a moresubstantial workshop jack (trolley jack orsimilar) should be used. Whichever type isemployed, it is essential that additional safetysupport is provided by means of axle standsdesigned for this purpose. Never usemakeshift means such as wooden blocks orpiles of house bricks, as these can easilytopple or, in the case of bricks, disintegrateunder the weight of the vehicle.

When using the jack supplied with thevehicle, the jacking point on each side of thecar is centrally positioned beneath the doorsill. Check that the jack is fully engagedbefore raising the vehicle.

When using a trolley or other type ofworkshop jack, it can be located beneath thelongitudinal engine/transmission supportmember at the front or under the axle beam atthe rear (see illustration). In the latter case,care must be taken not to damage thePanhard rod; to prevent this, it is advisable tomake up a suitable distance blockincorporating a V-shaped cut-out in its top

face to accommodate the axle beam. Theblock is then fitted between the jack head andthe axle beam.

If raising the vehicle completely, raise therear end first. Axle stands must only belocated under double-skinned side or chassismembers (see illustrations).

If removal of the wheels is not required, theuse of drive-on ramps is recommended.Caution should be exercised to ensure thatthey are correctly aligned with the wheels, andthat the vehicle is not driven too far alongthem so that it promptly falls off the otherends, or tips the ramps.

Jacking and Vehicle Support REF•5

Axle stand location at rear must be forward of trailing arm (A), notunder it (B)

Axle stand location points at front of vehicleA Body sill B Chassis runner

Jacking and support locations on underside of vehicleA, B and C* Support locations onlyD Front jacking location (except XR2)E Front jacking location for XR2 onlyF Side jacking locationsG Rear jacking location*Note: At location “C” it is important that the vehicle is only supportedon the double skinned portion of the longitudinal member (see tintedarea on “C”)

REF

REF•6 Tools and Working Facilities

IntroductionA selection of good tools is a fundamental

requirement for anyone contemplating themaintenance and repair of a motor vehicle.For the owner who does not possess any,their purchase will prove a considerableexpense, offsetting some of the savings madeby doing-it-yourself. However, provided thatthe tools purchased meet the relevant nationalsafety standards and are of good quality, theywill last for many years and prove anextremely worthwhile investment.

To help the average owner to decide whichtools are needed to carry out the various tasksdetailed in this manual, we have compiledthree lists of tools under the followingheadings: Maintenance and minor repair,Repair and overhaul, and Special. Newcomersto practical mechanics should start off withthe Maintenance and minor repair tool kit, andconfine themselves to the simpler jobs aroundthe vehicle. Then, as confidence andexperience grow, more difficult tasks can beundertaken, with extra tools being purchasedas, and when, they are needed. In this way, aMaintenance and minor repair tool kit can bebuilt up into a Repair and overhaul tool kit overa considerable period of time, without anymajor cash outlays. The experienced do-it-yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough formost repair and overhaul procedures, and willadd tools from the Special category when it isfelt that the expense is justified by the amountof use to which these tools will be put.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit

The tools given in this list should beconsidered as a minimum requirement ifroutine maintenance, servicing and minorrepair operations are to be undertaken. Werecommend the purchase of combinationspanners (ring one end, open-ended theother); although more expensive than open-ended ones, they do give the advantages ofboth types of spanner.M Combination spanners:

Metric - 8 to 19 mm inclusiveM Adjustable spanner - 35 mm jaw (approx.)M Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert) -

petrol modelsM Spark plug gap adjustment tool - petrol

modelsM Set of feeler gaugesM Brake bleed nipple spannerM Screwdrivers:

Flat blade - 100 mm long x 6 mm diaCross blade - 100 mm long x 6 mm dia

M Combination pliersM Hacksaw (junior)M Tyre pumpM Tyre pressure gaugeM Oil canM Oil filter removal toolM Fine emery clothM Wire brush (small)M Funnel (medium size)

Repair and overhaul tool kitThese tools are virtually essential for

anyone undertaking any major repairs to amotor vehicle, and are additional to thosegiven in the Maintenance and minor repair list.Included in this list is a comprehensive set ofsockets. Although these are expensive, theywill be found invaluable as they are soversatile - particularly if various drives areincluded in the set. We recommend the half-inch square-drive type, as this can be usedwith most proprietary torque wrenches.

The tools in this list will sometimes need tobe supplemented by tools from the Special list:M Sockets (or box spanners) to cover range in

previous list (including Torx sockets)M Reversible ratchet drive (for use with

sockets)M Extension piece, 250 mm (for use with

sockets)M Universal joint (for use with sockets)M Torque wrench (for use with sockets)M Self-locking gripsM Ball pein hammerM Soft-faced mallet (plastic/aluminium or

rubber)M Screwdrivers:

Flat blade - long & sturdy, short (chubby), and narrow (electrician’s) typesCross blade – Long & sturdy, and short (chubby) types

M Pliers:Long-nosedSide cutters (electrician’s)Circlip (internal and external)

M Cold chisel - 25 mmM ScriberM ScraperM Centre-punchM Pin punchM HacksawM Brake hose clampM Brake/clutch bleeding kitM Selection of twist drillsM Steel rule/straight-edgeM Allen keys (inc. splined/Torx type)M Selection of filesM Wire brushM Axle standsM Jack (strong trolley or hydraulic type)M Light with extension leadSockets and reversible ratchet drive

Clutch plate alignment setPiston ring compressorSpline bit set

Valve spring compressor

Tools and Working Facilities REF•7

REF

Special toolsThe tools in this list are those which are not

used regularly, are expensive to buy, or whichneed to be used in accordance with theirmanufacturers’ instructions. Unless relativelydifficult mechanical jobs are undertakenfrequently, it will not be economic to buymany of these tools. Where this is the case,you could consider clubbing together withfriends (or joining a motorists’ club) to make ajoint purchase, or borrowing the tools againsta deposit from a local garage or tool hirespecialist. It is worth noting that many of thelarger DIY superstores now carry a largerange of special tools for hire at modest rates.

The following list contains only those toolsand instruments freely available to the public,and not those special tools produced by thevehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealernetwork. You will find occasional referencesto these manufacturers’ special tools in thetext of this manual. Generally, an alternativemethod of doing the job without the vehiclemanufacturers’ special tool is given. However,sometimes there is no alternative to usingthem. Where this is the case and the relevanttool cannot be bought or borrowed, you willhave to entrust the work to a dealer.M Valve spring compressorM Valve grinding toolM Piston ring compressorM Piston ring removal/installation toolM Cylinder bore honeM Balljoint separatorM Coil spring compressors (where applicable)M Two/three-legged hub and bearing pullerM Impact screwdriverM Micrometer and/or vernier calipersM Dial gaugeM Stroboscopic timing lightM Dwell angle meter/tachometerM Universal electrical multi-meterM Cylinder compression gaugeM Hand-operated vacuum pump and gaugeM Clutch plate alignment setM Brake shoe steady spring cup removal toolM Bush and bearing removal/installation setM Stud extractorsM Tap and die setM Lifting tackleM Trolley jack

Buying toolsReputable motor accessory shops and

superstores often offer excellent quality toolsat discount prices, so it pays to shop around.

Remember, you don’t have to buy the mostexpensive items on the shelf, but it is alwaysadvisable to steer clear of the very cheaptools. Beware of ‘bargains’ offered on marketstalls or at car boot sales. There are plenty ofgood tools around at reasonable prices, butalways aim to purchase items which meet therelevant national safety standards. If in doubt,ask the proprietor or manager of the shop foradvice before making a purchase.

Care and maintenance of toolsHaving purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is

necessary to keep the tools in a clean andserviceable condition. After use, always wipeoff any dirt, grease and metal particles using aclean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away.Never leave them lying around after they havebeen used. A simple tool rack on the garageor workshop wall for items such asscrewdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Storeall normal spanners and sockets in a metalbox. Any measuring instruments, gauges,meters, etc, must be carefully stored wherethey cannot be damaged or become rusty.

Take a little care when tools are used.Hammer heads inevitably become marked,and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on theirblades from time to time. A little timelyattention with emery cloth or a file will soonrestore items like this to a good finish.

Working facilitiesNot to be forgotten when discussing tools

is the workshop itself. If anything more thanroutine maintenance is to be carried out, asuitable working area becomes essential.

It is appreciated that many an owner-mechanic is forced by circumstances toremove an engine or similar item without thebenefit of a garage or workshop. Having donethis, any repairs should always be done underthe cover of a roof.

Wherever possible, any dismantling shouldbe done on a clean, flat workbench or table ata suitable working height.

Any workbench needs a vice; one with a jawopening of 100 mm is suitable for most jobs.As mentioned previously, some clean drystorage space is also required for tools, as wellas for any lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-uppaints etc, which become necessary.

Another item which may be required, andwhich has a much more general usage, is anelectric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 8mm. This, together with a good range of twistdrills, is virtually essential for fittingaccessories.

Last, but not least, always keep a supply ofold newspapers and clean, lint-free ragsavailable, and try to keep any working area asclean as possible.

Stroboscopic timing light Stud extractor setCompression tester

Dial test indicator (“dial gauge”)Micrometer set

REF•8 MOT Test ChecksThis is a guide to getting your vehicle through the MOT test.

Obviously it will not be possible to examine the vehicle to the samestandard as the professional MOT tester. However, working throughthe following checks will enable you to identify any problem areasbefore submitting the vehicle for the test.

Where a testable component is in borderline condition, the testerhas discretion in deciding whether to pass or fail it. The basis of suchdiscretion is whether the tester would be happy for a close relative orfriend to use the vehicle with the component in that condition. If thevehicle presented is clean and evidently well cared for, the tester maybe more inclined to pass a borderline component than if the vehicle isscruffy and apparently neglected.

It has only been possible to summarise the test requirements here,based on the regulations in force at the time of printing. Test standardsare becoming increasingly stringent, although there are someexemptions for older vehicles. For full details obtain a copy of the Haynespublication Pass the MOT! (available from stockists of Haynes manuals).

An assistant will be needed to help carry out some of these checks.

The checks have been sub-divided into four categories, as follows:

HandbrakeM Test the operation of the handbrake.Excessive travel (too many clicks) indicatesincorrect brake or cable adjustment.M Check that the handbrake cannot bereleased by tapping the lever sideways. Checkthe security of the lever mountings.

FootbrakeM Depress the brake pedal and check that itdoes not creep down to the floor, indicating amaster cylinder fault. Release the pedal, waita few seconds, then depress it again. If thepedal travels nearly to the floor before firmresistance is felt, brake adjustment or repair isnecessary. If the pedal feels spongy, there isair in the hydraulic system which must beremoved by bleeding.

M Check that the brake pedal is secure and ingood condition. Check also for signs of fluidleaks on the pedal, floor or carpets, whichwould indicate failed seals in the brake mastercylinder.M Check the servo unit (when applicable) byoperating the brake pedal several times, thenkeeping the pedal depressed and starting theengine. As the engine starts, the pedal willmove down slightly. If not, the vacuum hose orthe servo itself may be faulty.

Steering wheel and column M Examine the steering wheel for fractures orlooseness of the hub, spokes or rim. M Move the steering wheel from side to sideand then up and down. Check that the steering wheel is not loose on the column,indicating wear or a loose retaining nut.Continue moving the steering wheel as before,but also turn it slightly from left to right. M Check that the steering wheel is not looseon the column, and that there is no abnormal

movement of the steering wheel, indicatingwear in the column support bearings or couplings.

Windscreen and mirrors M The windscreen must be free of cracks orother significant damage within the driver’sfield of view. (Small stone chips areacceptable.) Rear view mirrors must besecure, intact, and capable of being adjusted.

1Checks carried outFROM THE DRIVER’S SEAT

1Checks carried outFROM THE DRIVER’SSEAT

2Checks carried outWITH THE VEHICLEON THE GROUND

3Checks carried outWITH THE VEHICLERAISED AND THEWHEELS FREE TOTURN

4Checks carried out onYOUR VEHICLE’SEXHAUST EMISSIONSYSTEM

MOT Test Checks REF•9

Seat belts and seats Note: The following checks are applicable toall seat belts, front and rear.

M Examine the webbing of all the belts(including rear belts if fitted) for cuts, seriousfraying or deterioration. Fasten and unfasteneach belt to check the buckles. If applicable,check the retracting mechanism. Check thesecurity of all seat belt mountings accessiblefrom inside the vehicle.M The front seats themselves must besecurely attached and the backrests mustlock in the upright position.

Doors M Both front doors must be able to be openedand closed from outside and inside, and mustlatch securely when closed.

Vehicle identificationM Number plates must be in good condition,secure and legible, with letters and numberscorrectly spaced – spacing at (A) should betwice that at (B).

M The VIN plate and/or homologation platemust be legible.

Electrical equipmentM Switch on the ignition and check the operation of the horn.M Check the windscreen washers and wipers,examining the wiper blades; renew damagedor perished blades. Also check the operationof the stop-lights.

M Check the operation of the sidelights andnumber plate lights. The lenses and reflectorsmust be secure, clean and undamaged. M Check the operation and alignment of theheadlights. The headlight reflectors must notbe tarnished and the lenses must beundamaged.M Switch on the ignition and check the operation of the direction indicators (includingthe instrument panel tell-tale) and the hazardwarning lights. Operation of the sidelights andstop-lights must not affect the indicators - if itdoes, the cause is usually a bad earth at therear light cluster.M Check the operation of the rear foglight(s),including the warning light on the instrumentpanel or in the switch.

FootbrakeM Examine the master cylinder, brake pipesand servo unit for leaks, loose mountings, corrosion or other damage.

M The fluid reservoir must be secure and thefluid level must be between the upper (A) andlower (B) markings.

M Inspect both front brake flexible hoses forcracks or deterioration of the rubber. Turn thesteering from lock to lock, and ensure that thehoses do not contact the wheel, tyre, or anypart of the steering or suspension mechanism.With the brake pedal firmly depressed, checkthe hoses for bulges or leaks under pressure.

Steering and suspensionM Have your assistant turn the steering wheelfrom side to side slightly, up to the point wherethe steering gear just begins to transmit thismovement to the roadwheels. Check forexcessive free play between the steeringwheel and the steering gear, indicating wear orinsecurity of the steering column joints, thecolumn-to-steering gear coupling, or thesteering gear itself.M Have your assistant turn the steering wheelmore vigorously in each direction, so that theroadwheels just begin to turn. As this is done,examine all the steering joints, linkages,fittings and attachments. Renew anycomponent that shows signs of wear or damage. On vehicles with power steering,check the security and condition of the steering pump, drivebelt and hoses.M Check that the vehicle is standing level,and at approximately the correct ride height.

Shock absorbersM Depress each corner of the vehicle in turn,then release it. The vehicle should rise andthen settle in its normal position. If the vehiclecontinues to rise and fall, the shock absorberis defective. A shock absorber which hasseized will also cause the vehicle to fail.

2Checks carried outWITH THE VEHICLE ON THEGROUND

REF

REF•10 MOT Test Checks

Exhaust systemM Start the engine. With your assistant holding a rag over the tailpipe, check theentire system for leaks. Repair or renewleaking sections.

Jack up the front and rear of the vehicle,and securely support it on axle stands.Position the stands clear of the suspensionassemblies. Ensure that the wheels areclear of the ground and that the steeringcan be turned from lock to lock.

Steering mechanism M Have your assistant turn the steering fromlock to lock. Check that the steering turnssmoothly, and that no part of the steeringmechanism, including a wheel or tyre, foulsany brake hose or pipe or any part of the bodystructure.M Examine the steering rack rubber gaitersfor damage or insecurity of the retaining clips.If power steering is fitted, check for signs ofdamage or leakage of the fluid hoses, pipes orconnections. Also check for excessivestiffness or binding of the steering, a missingsplit pin or locking device, or severe corrosionof the body structure within 30 cm of anysteering component attachment point.

Front and rear suspension andwheel bearings M Starting at the front right-hand side, graspthe roadwheel at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clockpositions and shake it vigorously. Check forfree play or insecurity at the wheel bearings,suspension balljoints, or suspension mount-ings, pivots and attachments.M Now grasp the wheel at the 12 o’clock and6 o’clock positions and repeat the previousinspection. Spin the wheel, and check forroughness or tightness of the front wheelbearing.

M If excess free play is suspected at acomponent pivot point, this can be confirmedby using a large screwdriver or similar tool andlevering between the mounting and thecomponent attachment. This will confirmwhether the wear is in the pivot bush, itsretaining bolt, or in the mounting itself (the boltholes can often become elongated).

M Carry out all the above checks at the otherfront wheel, and then at both rear wheels.

Springs and shock absorbers M Examine the suspension struts (whenapplicable) for serious fluid leakage, corrosion,or damage to the casing. Also check thesecurity of the mounting points.M If coil springs are fitted, check that thespring ends locate in their seats, and that thespring is not corroded, cracked or broken.M If leaf springs are fitted, check that allleaves are intact, that the axle is securelyattached to each spring, and that there is nodeterioration of the spring eye mountings,bushes, and shackles.

M The same general checks apply to vehiclesfitted with other suspension types, such astorsion bars, hydraulic displacer units, etc.Ensure that all mountings and attachments aresecure, that there are no signs of excessivewear, corrosion or damage, and (on hydraulictypes) that there are no fluid leaks or damagedpipes.M Inspect the shock absorbers for signs ofserious fluid leakage. Check for wear of themounting bushes or attachments, or damageto the body of the unit.

Driveshafts(fwd vehicles only)M Rotate each front wheel in turn and inspectthe constant velocity joint gaiters for splits ordamage. Also check that each driveshaft isstraight and undamaged.

Braking system M If possible without dismantling, checkbrake pad wear and disc condition. Ensurethat the friction lining material has not wornexcessively, (A) and that the discs are notfractured, pitted, scored or badly worn (B).

M Examine all the rigid brake pipesunderneath the vehicle, and the flexiblehose(s) at the rear. Look for corrosion, chafingor insecurity of the pipes, and for signs ofbulging under pressure, chafing, splits ordeterioration of the flexible hoses.M Look for signs of fluid leaks at the brakecalipers or on the brake backplates. Repair orrenew leaking components.M Slowly spin each wheel, while yourassistant depresses and releases thefootbrake. Ensure that each brake is operatingand does not bind when the pedal is released.

3Checks carried outWITH THE VEHICLE RAISEDAND THE WHEELS FREE TOTURN

MOT Test Checks REF•11

M Examine the handbrake mechanism,checking for frayed or broken cables,excessive corrosion, or wear or insecurity ofthe linkage. Check that the mechanism workson each relevant wheel, and releases fully,without binding.M It is not possible to test brake efficiencywithout special equipment, but a road test canbe carried out later to check that the vehiclepulls up in a straight line.

Fuel and exhaust systemsM Inspect the fuel tank (including the fillercap), fuel pipes, hoses and unions. Allcomponents must be secure and free fromleaks.M Examine the exhaust system over its entirelength, checking for any damaged, broken ormissing mountings, security of the retainingclamps and rust or corrosion.

Wheels and tyres M Examine the sidewalls and tread area ofeach tyre in turn. Check for cuts, tears, lumps,bulges, separation of the tread, and exposureof the ply or cord due to wear or damage.Check that the tyre bead is correctly seatedon the wheel rim, that the valve is sound and

properly seated, and that the wheel is notdistorted or damaged. M Check that the tyres are of the correct sizefor the vehicle, that they are of the same sizeand type on each axle, and that the pressuresare correct.M Check the tyre tread depth. The legalminimum at the time of writing is 1.6 mm overat least three-quarters of the tread width.Abnormal tread wear may indicate incorrectfront wheel alignment.

Body corrosionM Check the condition of the entire vehiclestructure for signs of corrosion in load-bearingareas. (These include chassis box sections,side sills, cross-members, pillars, and allsuspension, steering, braking system andseat belt mountings and anchorages.) Anycorrosion which has seriously reduced thethickness of a load-bearing area is likely tocause the vehicle to fail. In this caseprofessional repairs are likely to be needed.M Damage or corrosion which causes sharpor otherwise dangerous edges to be exposedwill also cause the vehicle to fail.

Petrol modelsM Have the engine at normal operatingtemperature, and make sure that it is in goodtune (ignition system in good order, air filterelement clean, etc).M Before any measurements are carried out,raise the engine speed to around 2500 rpm,and hold it at this speed for 20 seconds. Allow

the engine speed to return to idle, and watchfor smoke emissions from the exhausttailpipe. If the idle speed is obviously muchtoo high, or if dense blue or clearly-visibleblack smoke comes from the tailpipe for morethan 5 seconds, the vehicle will fail. As a ruleof thumb, blue smoke signifies oil being burnt(engine wear) while black smoke signifiesunburnt fuel (dirty air cleaner element, or othercarburettor or fuel system fault).M An exhaust gas analyser capable ofmeasuring carbon monoxide (CO) andhydrocarbons (HC) is now needed. If such aninstrument cannot be hired or borrowed, alocal garage may agree to perform the checkfor a small fee.

CO emissions (mixture)M At the time of writing, the maximum COlevel at idle is 3.5% for vehicles first used afterAugust 1986 and 4.5% for older vehicles.From January 1996 a much tighter limit(around 0.5%) applies to catalyst-equippedvehicles first used from August 1992. If theCO level cannot be reduced far enough topass the test (and the fuel and ignitionsystems are otherwise in good condition) thenthe carburettor is badly worn, or there is someproblem in the fuel injection system orcatalytic converter (as applicable).

HC emissionsM With the CO emissions within limits, HCemissions must be no more than 1200 ppm(parts per million). If the vehicle fails this testat idle, it can be re-tested at around 2000 rpm;if the HC level is then 1200 ppm or less, thiscounts as a pass.M Excessive HC emissions can be caused byoil being burnt, but they are more likely to bedue to unburnt fuel.

Diesel modelsM The only emission test applicable to Dieselengines is the measuring of exhaust smokedensity. The test involves accelerating theengine several times to its maximumunloaded speed.

Note: It is of the utmost importance that theengine timing belt is in good condition beforethe test is carried out.

M Excessive smoke can be caused by a dirtyair cleaner element. Otherwise, professionaladvice may be needed to find the cause.

4Checks carried out onYOUR VEHICLE’S EXHAUSTEMISSION SYSTEM

REF

EngineM Engine fails to rotate when attempting to startM Starter motor turns engine slowlyM Engine rotates, but will not startM Engine difficult to start when coldM Engine difficult to start when hotM Starter motor noisy or excessively-rough in engagementM Engine starts, but stops immediatelyM Engine idles erraticallyM Engine misfires at idle speedM Engine misfires throughout the driving speed rangeM Engine hesitates on accelerationM Engine stallsM Engine lacks powerM Engine backfiresM Oil pressure warning light illuminated with engine runningM Engine runs-on after switching offM Engine noises

Cooling systemM OverheatingM OvercoolingM External coolant leakageM Internal coolant leakageM Corrosion

Fuel and exhaust systemsM Excessive fuel consumptionM Fuel leakage and/or fuel odourM Excessive noise or fumes from exhaust system

ClutchM Pedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistanceM Clutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)M Clutch slips (engine speed increases, with no increase in vehicle

speed)M Judder as clutch is engagedM Noise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal

GearboxM Noisy in neutral with engine runningM Noisy in one particular gearM Difficulty engaging gearsM Jumps out of gearM VibrationM Lubricant leaks

DriveshaftsM Clunking or knocking noise on turnsM Vibration when accelerating or decelerating

Braking systemM Vehicle pulls to one side under brakingM Noise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes appliedM Excessive brake pedal travelM Brake pedal feels spongy when depressedM Excessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicleM Judder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel when brakingM Brakes bindingM Rear wheels locking under normal braking

Steering and SuspensionM Vehicle pulls to one sideM Wheel wobble and vibrationM Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, or during brakingM Wandering or general instabilityM Excessively-stiff steeringM Excessive play in steeringM Tyre wear excessive

Electrical systemM Battery will not hold a charge for more than a few daysM Ignition/no-charge warning light remains illuminated with engine

runningM Ignition/no-charge warning light fails to come onM Lights inoperativeM Instrument readings inaccurate or erraticM Horn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operationM Windscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in

operationM Windscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in

operation

The vehicle owner who does his or her own maintenance according tothe recommended service schedules should not have to use this sectionof the manual very often. Modern component reliability is such that,provided those items subject to wear or deterioration are inspected orrenewed at the specified intervals, sudden failure is comparatively rare.Faults do not usually just happen as a result of sudden failure, butdevelop over a period of time. Major mechanical failures in particular areusually preceded by characteristic symptoms over hundreds or eventhousands of miles. Those components which do occasionally failwithout warning are often small and easily carried in the vehicle.

With any fault-finding, the first step is to decide where to begininvestigations. Sometimes this is obvious, but on other occasions, alittle detective work will be necessary. The owner who makes half adozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful incuring a fault (or its symptoms), but will be none the wiser if the faultrecurs, and ultimately may have spent more time and money than wasnecessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be moresatisfactory in the long run. Always take into account any warningsigns or abnormalities that may have been noticed in the period

preceding the fault - power loss, high or low gauge readings, unusualsmells, etc - and remember that failure of components such as fuses orspark plugs may only be pointers to some underlying fault.

The pages which follow provide an easy-reference guide to the morecommon problems which may occur during the operation of thevehicle. These problems and their possible causes are grouped underheadings denoting various components or systems, such as Engine,Cooling system, etc. The Chapter and/or Section which deals with theproblem is also shown in brackets. Whatever the fault, certain basicprinciples apply. These are as follows:

Verify the fault. This is simply a matter of being sure that you knowwhat the symptoms are before starting work. This is particularlyimportant if you are investigating a fault for someone else, who maynot have described it very accurately.

Don’t overlook the obvious. For example, if the vehicle won’t start, isthere fuel in the tank? (Don’t take anyone else’s word on this particularpoint, and don’t trust the fuel gauge either!) If an electrical fault isindicated, look for loose or broken wires before digging out the test gear.

REF•12 Fault Finding

Introduction

Cure the disease, not the symptom. Substituting a flat battery with afully-charged one will get you off the hard shoulder, but if theunderlying cause is not attended to, the new battery will go the sameway. Similarly, changing oil-fouled spark plugs for a new set will getyou moving again, but remember that the reason for the fouling (if itwasn’t simply an incorrect grade of plug) will have to be establishedand corrected.

Don’t take anything for granted. Particularly, don’t forget that a“new” component may itself be defective (especially if it’s been rattlingaround in the boot for months), and don’t leave components out of afault diagnosis sequence just because they are new or recently-fitted.When you do finally diagnose a difficult fault, you’ll probably realisethat all the evidence was there from the start.

Engine fails to rotate when attempting to startM Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1).M Battery discharged or faulty (Chapter 5C).M Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit

(Chapter 5C).M Defective starter solenoid or switch (Chapter 5C).M Defective starter motor (Chapter 5C).M Starter pinion or flywheel/driveplate ring gear teeth loose or

broken (Chapters 2 or 5).M Engine earth strap broken or disconnected.

Starter motor turns engine slowlyM Partially-discharged battery (recharge, use jump leads, or push

start) (Chapter 5C).M Battery terminals loose or corroded (Chapter 1).M Battery earth to body defective (Chapter 5C).M Engine earth strap loose.M Starter motor (or solenoid) wiring loose (Chapter 5C).M Starter motor internal fault (Chapter 5C).

Engine rotates, but will not startM Fuel pump defective (Chapter 4).M Fuel tank empty.M Battery discharged (engine rotates slowly) (Chapter 5C).M Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1).M Ignition components damp or damaged (Chapters 1 and 5).M Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the ignition circuit

(Chapters 1 and 5A or B).M Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapters 1 and 5A

or B).M Major mechanical failure (eg broken timing chain) (Chapter 2).

Engine difficult to start when coldM Battery discharged (Chapter 5C).M Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1).M Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapters 1 and 5A

or B).M Other ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5A or B).M Low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).

Engine difficult to start when hotM Air filter element dirty or clogged (Chapter 1).M Low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).

Starter motor noisy or excessively-rough inengagementM Starter pinion or flywheel/driveplate ring gear teeth loose or

broken (Chapters 2 or 5).M Starter motor mounting bolts loose or missing (Chapter 5C).M Starter motor internal components worn or damaged (Chapter 5C).

Engine starts, but stops immediatelyM Loose or faulty electrical connections in the ignition circuit

(Chapters 1 and 5A or B).M Vacuum leak at the throttle body or inlet manifold (Chapter 4).

Engine idles erraticallyM Carburettor stepper motor plunger dirty (where fitted).M Incorrectly-adjusted idle speed (Chapter 4).M Air filter element clogged (Chapter 1).M Vacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated

hoses (Chapter 4).M Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapters 1 and 5A

or B).M Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).M Camshaft lobes worn (Chapter 2B).

Engine misfires at idle speedM Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapters 1 and 5A

or B).M Faulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 5A or B).M Vacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated

hoses (Chapter 4).M Distributor cap cracked or tracking internally, where applicable

(Chapter 5A or B).M Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).M Disconnected, leaking, or perished crankcase ventilation hoses

(Chapter 4).

Engine misfires throughout the driving speedrangeM Fuel filter choked (where fitted).M Fuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4).M Fuel tank vent blocked, or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4).M Vacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated

hoses (Chapter 4).M Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapters 1 and 5A

or B).M Faulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 5A or B).M Distributor cap cracked or tracking internally, where applicable

(Chapter 5A or B).M Faulty ignition coil (Chapter 5B).M Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).

Engine hesitates on accelerationM Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapters 1 and 5A

or B).M Vacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated

hoses (Chapter 4).

Engine stallsM Vacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated

hoses (Chapter 4).M Fuel filter choked (where fitted).M Fuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4).M Fuel tank vent blocked, or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4).

Engine lacks powerM Fuel filter choked (where fitted).M Fuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4).M Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).M Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapters 1 and 5A

or B).

Fault Finding REF•13

REF

Engine

Engine lacks power (continued)M Vacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated

hoses (Chapter 4).M Brakes binding (Chapters 1 and 9).M Clutch slipping (Chapter 6).

Engine backfiresM Vacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated

hoses (Chapter 4).

Oil pressure warning light illuminated with enginerunningM Low oil level, or incorrect oil grade (“Weekly checks”).M Faulty oil pressure sensor (Chapter 2).M Worn engine bearings and/or oil pump (Chapter 2).M Excessively high engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).M Oil pressure relief valve defective (Chapter 2).M Oil pick-up strainer clogged (Chapter 2).Note: Low oil pressure in a high-mileage engine at tickover is notnecessarily a cause for concern. Sudden pressure loss at speed is farmore significant. In any event, check the gauge or warning light senderbefore condemning the engine.

Engine runs-on after switching offM Excessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2).M Excessively high engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).

Engine noises

Pre-ignition (pinking) or knocking during acceleration orunder loadM Ignition timing incorrect/ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5A

or B).M Incorrect grade of spark plug (Chapters 1 and 5A or B).M Incorrect grade of fuel.M Vacuum leak at throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses

(Chapter 4).M Excessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2).

Whistling or wheezing noisesM Leaking inlet manifold or throttle body gasket (Chapter 4).M Leaking exhaust manifold gasket (Chapter 4).M Leaking vacuum hose (Chapters 4 and 9).M Blowing cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2).

Tapping or rattling noisesM Worn valve gear, timing chain or camshaft (Chapter 2).M Ancillary component fault (water pump, alternator, etc) (Chapters

3, 5C, etc).

Knocking or thumping noisesM Worn big-end bearings (regular heavy knocking, perhaps less

under load) (Chapter 2).M Worn main bearings (rumbling and knocking, perhaps worsening

under load) (Chapter 2).M Piston slap (most noticeable when cold) (Chapter 2).M Ancillary component fault (water pump, alternator, etc) (Chapters

3, 5C, etc).

OverheatingM Auxiliary drivebelt broken or incorrectly adjusted (Chapter 1).M Insufficient coolant in system (“Weekly checks”).M Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3).M Radiator core blocked, or grille restricted (Chapter 3).M Electric cooling fan or thermostatic switch faulty (Chapter 3).M Ignition timing incorrect, or ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and

5A or B).M Inaccurate temperature gauge sender unit (Chapter 3).M Airlock in cooling system (Chapter 3).

OvercoolingM Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3).M Inaccurate temperature gauge sender unit (Chapter 3).

External coolant leakageM Deteriorated or damaged hoses or hose clips (Chapters 1 and 3).M Radiator core or heater matrix leaking (Chapter 3).M Pressure cap faulty (Chapter 3).M Water pump internal seal leaking (Chapter 3).M Water pump-to-block seal leaking (Chapter 3).M Boiling due to overheating (Chapter 3).M Core plug leaking (Chapter 2).

Internal coolant leakageM Leaking cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2).M Cracked cylinder head or cylinder block (Chapter 2).

CorrosionM Infrequent draining and flushing (Chapter 1).M Incorrect coolant mixture or inappropriate coolant type (“Weekly

checks”).

Excessive fuel consumptionM Air filter element dirty or clogged (Chapter 1).M Ignition timing incorrect or ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and

5A or B).M Brakes binding (Chapter 9).M Tyres under-inflated (“Weekly checks”).

Fuel leakage and/or fuel odourM Damaged fuel tank, pipes or connections (Chapters 1 and 4).

Excessive noise or fumes from exhaust systemM Leaking exhaust system or manifold joints (Chapters 1 and 4).M Leaking, corroded or damaged silencers or pipe (Chapters 1 and 4).M Broken mountings causing body or suspension contact (Chapter 4).


Cooling system

Fuel and exhaust systems

Pedal travels to floor - no pressure or very littleresistanceM Badly stretched or broken cable (Chapter 6).M Stripped pawl on pedal (Chapter 6).M Broken clutch release bearing or arm (Chapter 6).M Broken diaphragm spring in clutch pressure plate (Chapter 6).

Clutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)M Cable free play excessive (Chapter 6).M Clutch driven plate sticking on gearbox input shaft splines

(Chapter 6).M Clutch driven plate sticking to flywheel or pressure plate (Chapter 6).M Faulty pressure plate assembly (Chapter 6).M Clutch release mechanism worn or incorrectly assembled (Chapter 6).

Clutch slips (engine speed increases, with noincrease in vehicle speed)M Clutch driven plate linings excessively worn (Chapter 6).

M Clutch driven plate linings contaminated with oil or grease(Chapter 6).

M Faulty pressure plate or weak diaphragm spring (Chapter 6).

Judder as clutch is engagedM Clutch driven plate linings contaminated with oil or grease

(Chapter 6).M Clutch driven plate linings excessively worn (Chapter 6).M Faulty or distorted pressure plate or diaphragm spring (Chapter 6).M Worn or loose engine or gearbox mountings (Chapter 2).M Clutch driven plate hub or gearbox input shaft splines worn

(Chapter 6).

Noise when depressing or releasing clutch pedalM Worn clutch release bearing (Chapter 6).M Worn or dry clutch pedal pivot (Chapter 6).M Faulty pressure plate assembly (Chapter 6).M Pressure plate diaphragm spring broken (Chapter 6).M Broken clutch driven plate cushioning springs (Chapter 6).

Noisy in neutral with engine runningM Input shaft bearings worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal

released, but not when depressed) (Chapter 7).*M Clutch release bearing worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal

depressed, possibly less when released) (Chapter 6).

Noisy in one particular gearM Worn, damaged or chipped gear teeth (Chapter 7).*

Difficulty engaging gearsM Clutch fault (Chapter 6).M Worn or damaged gear linkage (Chapter 7).M Worn synchroniser units*

Jumps out of gearM Worn or damaged gear linkage (Chapter 7).M Worn synchroniser units*M Worn selector forks*

VibrationM Lack of oil (Chapter 1).M Worn bearings (Chapter 7).*

Lubricant leaksM Leaking oil seal (Chapter 7).M Leaking housing joint (Chapter 7).**Although the corrective action necessary to remedy the symptomsdescribed is beyond the scope of the home mechanic, the aboveinformation should be helpful in isolating the cause of the condition, sothat the owner can communicate clearly with a professional mechanic.


REF

Clutch

Gearbox

Clunking or knocking noise on turns (at slowspeed on full lock)M Worn outer constant velocity (CV) joints (Chapter 8).M Lack of CV joint lubrication, possibly due to damaged gaiter

(Chapter 8).

Vibration when accelerating or deceleratingM Worn inboard joint (Chapter 8).M Bent or distorted shaft (Chapter 8).

Driveshafts

Note: Before assuming that a brake problem exists, make sure that thetyres are in good condition and correctly inflated, that the front wheelalignment is correct, and that the vehicle is not loaded with weight in anunequal manner. Apart from checking the condition of all pipe andhose connections, any faults occurring on the anti-lock braking systemshould be referred to a Ford dealer for diagnosis.

Vehicle pulls to one side under brakingM Worn, defective, damaged or contaminated front or rear brake

pads on one side (Chapters 1 and 9).M Seized or partially-seized front or rear brake caliper piston

(Chapter 9).M A mixture of brake pad lining materials fitted between sides

(Chapter 9).M Brake caliper mounting bolts loose (Chapter 9).M Worn or damaged steering or suspension components (Chapters

1 and 10).

Noise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) whenbrakes appliedM Brake pad friction lining material worn down to metal backing

(Chapters 1 and 9).M Excessive corrosion of brake disc - may be apparent after the

vehicle has been standing for some time (Chapters 1 and 9).

Excessive brake pedal travelM Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9).M Air in hydraulic system (Chapter 9).M Faulty vacuum servo unit (Chapter 9).

Brake pedal feels spongy when depressedM Air in hydraulic system (Chapter 9).

M Deteriorated flexible rubber brake hoses (Chapters 1 and 9).M Master cylinder mountings loose (Chapter 9).M Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9).

Excessive brake pedal effort required to stopvehicleM Faulty vacuum servo unit (Chapter 9).M Disconnected, damaged or insecure brake servo vacuum hose

(Chapters 1 and 9).M Primary or secondary hydraulic circuit failure (Chapter 9).M Seized brake caliper piston(s) (Chapter 9).M Brake pads incorrectly fitted (Chapter 9).M Incorrect grade of brake pads fitted (Chapter 9).M Brake pads contaminated (Chapter 9).

Judder felt through brake pedal or steering wheelwhen brakingM Excessive run-out or distortion of brake disc(s) (Chapter 9).M Brake pad linings worn (Chapters 1 and 9).M Brake caliper mounting bolts loose (Chapter 9).M Wear in suspension or steering components or mountings

(Chapters 1 and 10).

Brakes bindingM Seized brake caliper piston(s) (Chapter 9).M Incorrectly-adjusted handbrake mechanism (Chapter 9).M Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9).

Rear wheels locking under normal brakingM Seized brake caliper piston(s) (Chapter 9).M Faulty brake pressure regulator (Chapter 9).

Note: Before diagnosing suspension or steering faults, be sure that thetrouble is not due to incorrect tyre pressures, mixtures of tyre types, orbinding brakes.

Vehicle pulls to one sideM Defective tyre (“Weekly checks”).M Excessive wear in suspension or steering components (Chapters 1

and 10).M Incorrect front wheel alignment (Chapter 10).M Accident damage to steering or suspension components


Wheel wobble and vibrationM Front roadwheels out of balance (vibration felt mainly through the

steering wheel) (Chapter 10).M Rear roadwheels out of balance (vibration felt throughout the

vehicle) (Chapter 10).M Roadwheels damaged or distorted (Chapter 10).M Faulty or damaged tyre (“Weekly checks”).M Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components

(Chapters 1 and 10).M Wheel bolts loose (Chapter 10).

Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners,or during brakingM Defective shock absorbers (Chapters 1 and 10).M Broken or weak coil spring and/or suspension component

(Chapters 1 and 10).M Worn or damaged anti-roll bar or mountings (Chapter 10).

Wandering or general instabilityM Incorrect front wheel alignment (Chapter 10).M Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components

(Chapters 1 and 10).M Roadwheels out of balance (Chapter 10).M Faulty or damaged tyre (“Weekly checks”).M Wheel bolts loose (Chapter 10).M Defective shock absorbers (Chapters 1 and 10).

Excessively-stiff steeringM Lack of steering gear lubricant (Chapter 10).M Seized track rod end balljoint or suspension balljoint (Chapters 1

and 10).M Broken or incorrectly adjusted auxiliary drivebelt (Chapter 1).M Incorrect front wheel alignment (Chapter 10).M Steering rack or column bent or damaged (Chapter 10).

Excessive play in steeringM Worn steering column universal joint(s) (Chapter 10).M Worn steering track rod end balljoints (Chapters 1 and 10).M Worn rack-and-pinion steering gear (Chapter 10).M Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components


Tyre wear excessive

Tyres worn on inside or outside edgesM Tyres under-inflated (wear on both edges) (“Weekly checks”).M Incorrect camber or castor angles (wear on one edge only)

(Chapter 10).


Braking system

Steering and suspension

M Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components(Chapters 1 and 10).

M Excessively-hard cornering.M Accident damage.

Tyre treads exhibit feathered edgesM Incorrect toe setting (Chapter 10).

Tyres worn in centre of treadM Tyres over-inflated (“Weekly checks”).

Tyres worn on inside and outside edgesM Tyres under-inflated (“Weekly checks”).M Worn shock absorbers (Chapters 1 and 10).

Tyres worn unevenlyM Tyres out of balance (“Weekly checks”).M Excessive wheel or tyre run-out (“Weekly checks”).M Worn shock absorbers (Chapters 1 and 10).M Faulty tyre (“Weekly checks”).

Note: For problems associated with the starting system, refer to thefaults listed under “Engine” earlier in this Section.

Battery will not hold a charge for more than a fewdaysM Battery defective internally (Chapter 5C).M Battery electrolyte level low - where applicable (“Weekly checks”).M Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1).M Auxiliary drivebelt worn - or incorrectly adjusted, where applicable

(Chapter 1).M Alternator not charging at correct output (Chapter 5C).M Alternator or voltage regulator faulty (Chapter 5C).M Short-circuit causing continual battery drain (Chapters 5C and 12).

Ignition/no-charge warning light remainsilluminated with engine runningM Auxiliary drivebelt broken, worn, or incorrectly adjusted (Chapter 1).M Alternator brushes worn, sticking, or dirty (Chapter 5C).M Alternator brush springs weak or broken (Chapter 5C).M Internal fault in alternator or voltage regulator (Chapter 5C).M Broken, disconnected, or loose wiring in charging circuit

(Chapter 5C).

Ignition/no-charge warning light fails to come onM Warning light bulb blown (Chapter 12).M Broken, disconnected, or loose wiring in warning light circuit

(Chapter 12).M Alternator faulty (Chapter 5C).

Lights inoperativeM Bulb blown (Chapter 12).M Corrosion of bulb or bulbholder contacts (Chapter 12).M Blown fuse (Chapter 12).M Faulty relay (Chapter 12).M Broken, loose, or disconnected wiring (Chapter 12).M Faulty switch (Chapter 12).

Instrument readings inaccurate or erratic

Instrument readings increase with engine speedM Faulty voltage regulator (Chapter 12).

Fuel or temperature gauges give no readingM Faulty gauge sender unit (Chapter 4).M Wiring open-circuit (Chapter 12).M Faulty gauge (Chapter 12).

Fuel or temperature gauges give continuous maximumreadingM Faulty gauge sender unit (Chapter 4).M Wiring short-circuit (Chapter 12).M Faulty gauge (Chapter 12).

Horn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation

Horn operates all the timeM Horn contacts permanently bridged or horn push stuck down

(Chapter 12).

Horn fails to operateM Blown fuse (Chapter 12).M Cable or cable connections loose, broken or disconnected

(Chapter 12).M Faulty horn (Chapter 12).

Horn emits intermittent or unsatisfactory soundM Cable connections loose (Chapter 12).M Horn mountings loose (Chapter 12).M Faulty horn (Chapter 12).

Windscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative, or unsat-isfactory in operation

Wipers fail to operate, or operate very slowlyM Wiper blades stuck to screen, or linkage seized or binding

(Chapters 1 and 12).M Blown fuse (Chapter 12).M Cable or cable connections loose, broken or disconnected

(Chapter 12).M Faulty relay (Chapter 12).M Faulty wiper motor (Chapter 12).

Wiper blades sweep over too large or too small an area ofthe glassM Wiper arms incorrectly positioned on spindles (Chapter 1).M Excessive wear of wiper linkage (Chapter 12).M Wiper motor or linkage mountings loose or insecure (Chapter 12).

Wiper blades fail to clean the glass effectivelyM Wiper blade rubbers worn or perished (“Weekly checks”).M Wiper arm tension springs broken, or arm pivots seized (Chapter 12).M Insufficient windscreen washer additive to adequately remove

road film (“Weekly checks”).

Windscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, orunsatisfactory in operation

One or more washer jets inoperativeM Blocked washer jet (Chapter 12).M Disconnected, kinked or restricted fluid hose (Chapter 12).M Insufficient fluid in washer reservoir (“Weekly checks”).

Washer pump fails to operateM Broken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12).M Blown fuse (Chapter 12).M Faulty washer switch (Chapter 12).M Faulty washer pump (Chapter 12).

Washer pump runs for some time before fluid is emittedfrom jetsM Faulty one-way valve in fluid supply hose (Chapter 12).


REF

Electrical system

REF•18 Glossary of Technical Terms

AABS (Anti-lock brake system) A system,usually electronically controlled, that sensesincipient wheel lockup during braking andrelieves hydraulic pressure at wheels that areabout to skid.Air bag An inflatable bag hidden in thesteering wheel (driver’s side) or the dash orglovebox (passenger side). In a head-oncollision, the bags inflate, preventing thedriver and front passenger from being thrownforward into the steering wheel or windscreen.Air cleaner A metal or plastic housing,containing a filter element, which removesdust and dirt from the air being drawn into theengine.Air filter element The actual filter in an aircleaner system, usually manufactured frompleated paper and requiring renewal at regularintervals.

Allen key A hexagonal wrench which fits intoa recessed hexagonal hole.Alligator clip A long-nosed spring-loadedmetal clip with meshing teeth. Used to maketemporary electrical connections.Alternator A component in the electricalsystem which converts mechanical energyfrom a drivebelt into electrical energy tocharge the battery and to operate the startingsystem, ignition system and electricalaccessories.

Ampere (amp) A unit of measurement for theflow of electric current. One amp is theamount of current produced by one voltacting through a resistance of one ohm.Anaerobic sealer A substance used toprevent bolts and screws from loosening.Anaerobic means that it does not requireoxygen for activation. The Loctite brand iswidely used.Antifreeze A substance (usually ethyleneglycol) mixed with water, and added to avehicle’s cooling system, to prevent freezingof the coolant in winter. Antifreeze alsocontains chemicals to inhibit corrosion andthe formation of rust and other deposits that

would tend to clog the radiator and coolantpassages and reduce cooling efficiency.Anti-seize compound A coating thatreduces the risk of seizing on fasteners thatare subjected to high temperatures, such asexhaust manifold bolts and nuts.

Asbestos A natural fibrous mineral with greatheat resistance, commonly used in thecomposition of brake friction materials.Asbestos is a health hazard and the dustcreated by brake systems should never beinhaled or ingested.Axle A shaft on which a wheel revolves, orwhich revolves with a wheel. Also, a solidbeam that connects the two wheels at oneend of the vehicle. An axle which alsotransmits power to the wheels is known as alive axle.

Axleshaft A single rotating shaft, on eitherside of the differential, which delivers powerfrom the final drive assembly to the drivewheels. Also called a driveshaft or a halfshaft.

BBall bearing An anti-friction bearingconsisting of a hardened inner and outer racewith hardened steel balls between two races.

Bearing The curved surface on a shaft or in abore, or the part assembled into either, thatpermits relative motion between them withminimum wear and friction.Big-end bearing The bearing in the end ofthe connecting rod that’s attached to thecrankshaft.Bleed nipple A valve on a brake wheelcylinder, caliper or other hydraulic componentthat is opened to purge the hydraulic systemof air. Also called a bleed screw.

Brake bleeding Procedure for removing airfrom lines of a hydraulic brake system.Brake disc The component of a disc brakethat rotates with the wheels.Brake drum The component of a drum brakethat rotates with the wheels.Brake linings The friction material whichcontacts the brake disc or drum to retard thevehicle’s speed. The linings are bonded orriveted to the brake pads or shoes.Brake pads The replaceable friction padsthat pinch the brake disc when the brakes areapplied. Brake pads consist of a frictionmaterial bonded or riveted to a rigid backingplate.Brake shoe The crescent-shaped carrier towhich the brake linings are mounted andwhich forces the lining against the rotatingdrum during braking.Braking systems For more information onbraking systems, consult the HaynesAutomotive Brake Manual.Breaker bar A long socket wrench handleproviding greater leverage.Bulkhead The insulated partition betweenthe engine and the passenger compartment.

CCaliper The non-rotating part of a disc-brakeassembly that straddles the disc and carriesthe brake pads. The caliper also contains thehydraulic components that cause the pads topinch the disc when the brakes are applied. Acaliper is also a measuring tool that can be setto measure inside or outside dimensions of anobject.

Brake bleeding

Bearing

Axle assembly

Anti-seize compound

Alternator (exploded view)

Air filter

Glossary of Technical Terms REF•19

REF

Camshaft A rotating shaft on which a seriesof cam lobes operate the valve mechanisms.The camshaft may be driven by gears, bysprockets and chain or by sprockets and abelt.Canister A container in an evaporativeemission control system; contains activatedcharcoal granules to trap vapours from thefuel system.

Carburettor A device which mixes fuel withair in the proper proportions to provide adesired power output from a spark ignitioninternal combustion engine.

Castellated Resembling the parapets alongthe top of a castle wall. For example, acastellated balljoint stud nut.

Castor In wheel alignment, the backward orforward tilt of the steering axis. Castor ispositive when the steering axis is inclinedrearward at the top.

Catalytic converter A silencer-like device inthe exhaust system which converts certainpollutants in the exhaust gases into lessharmful substances.

Circlip A ring-shaped clip used to preventendwise movement of cylindrical parts andshafts. An internal circlip is installed in agroove in a housing; an external circlip fits intoa groove on the outside of a cylindrical piecesuch as a shaft.Clearance The amount of space betweentwo parts. For example, between a piston anda cylinder, between a bearing and a journal,etc.Coil spring A spiral of elastic steel found invarious sizes throughout a vehicle, forexample as a springing medium in thesuspension and in the valve train.Compression Reduction in volume, andincrease in pressure and temperature, of agas, caused by squeezing it into a smallerspace.Compression ratio The relationship betweencylinder volume when the piston is at topdead centre and cylinder volume when thepiston is at bottom dead centre.Constant velocity (CV) joint A type ofuniversal joint that cancels out vibrationscaused by driving power being transmittedthrough an angle.Core plug A disc or cup-shaped metal deviceinserted in a hole in a casting through whichcore was removed when the casting wasformed. Also known as a freeze plug orexpansion plug. Crankcase The lower part of the engineblock in which the crankshaft rotates.Crankshaft The main rotating member, orshaft, running the length of the crankcase,with offset “throws” to which the connectingrods are attached.

Crocodile clip See Alligator clip

DDiagnostic code Code numbers obtained byaccessing the diagnostic mode of an enginemanagement computer. This code can beused to determine the area in the systemwhere a malfunction may be located.Disc brake A brake design incorporating arotating disc onto which brake pads aresqueezed. The resulting friction converts theenergy of a moving vehicle into heat.Double-overhead cam (DOHC) An enginethat uses two overhead camshafts, usuallyone for the intake valves and one for theexhaust valves.Drivebelt(s) The belt(s) used to driveaccessories such as the alternator, waterpump, power steering pump, air conditioningcompressor, etc. off the crankshaft pulley.

Driveshaft Any shaft used to transmitmotion. Commonly used when referring to theaxleshafts on a front wheel drive vehicle.

Drum brake A type of brake using a drum-shaped metal cylinder attached to the innersurface of the wheel. When the brake pedal ispressed, curved brake shoes with frictionlinings press against the inside of the drum toslow or stop the vehicle.

Castellated nut

Catalytic converter

Crankshaft assembly

Carburettor

Canister

Drum brake assembly

Accessory drivebelts

Driveshaft

REF•20 Glossary of Technical Terms

EEGR valve A valve used to introduce exhaustgases into the intake air stream.

Electronic control unit (ECU) A computerwhich controls (for instance) ignition and fuelinjection systems, or an anti-lock brakingsystem. For more information refer to theHaynes Automotive Electrical and ElectronicSystems Manual.Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) A computercontrolled fuel system that distributes fuelthrough an injector located in each intake portof the engine.Emergency brake A braking system,independent of the main hydraulic system,that can be used to slow or stop the vehicle ifthe primary brakes fail, or to hold the vehiclestationary even though the brake pedal isn’tdepressed. It usually consists of a hand leverthat actuates either front or rear brakesmechanically through a series of cables andlinkages. Also known as a handbrake orparking brake.Endfloat The amount of lengthwisemovement between two parts. As applied to acrankshaft, the distance that the crankshaftcan move forward and back in the cylinderblock.Engine management system (EMS) Acomputer controlled system which managesthe fuel injection and the ignition systems inan integrated fashion.Exhaust manifold A part with severalpassages through which exhaust gases leavethe engine combustion chambers and enterthe exhaust pipe.

FFan clutch A viscous (fluid) drive couplingdevice which permits variable engine fanspeeds in relation to engine speeds.

Feeler blade A thin strip or blade of hardenedsteel, ground to an exact thickness, used tocheck or measure clearances between parts.

Firing order The order in which the enginecylinders fire, or deliver their power strokes,beginning with the number one cylinder.Flywheel A heavy spinning wheel in whichenergy is absorbed and stored by means ofmomentum. On cars, the flywheel is attachedto the crankshaft to smooth out firingimpulses.Free play The amount of travel before anyaction takes place. The “looseness” in alinkage, or an assembly of parts, between theinitial application of force and actualmovement. For example, the distance thebrake pedal moves before the pistons in themaster cylinder are actuated.Fuse An electrical device which protects acircuit against accidental overload. The typicalfuse contains a soft piece of metal which iscalibrated to melt at a predetermined currentflow (expressed as amps) and break thecircuit.Fusible link A circuit protection deviceconsisting of a conductor surrounded byheat-resistant insulation. The conductor issmaller than the wire it protects, so it acts asthe weakest link in the circuit. Unlike a blownfuse, a failed fusible link must frequently becut from the wire for replacement.

GGap The distance the spark must travel injumping from the centre electrode to the side

electrode in a spark plug. Also refers to thespacing between the points in a contactbreaker assembly in a conventional points-type ignition, or to the distance between thereluctor or rotor and the pickup coil in anelectronic ignition.Gasket Any thin, soft material - usually cork,cardboard, asbestos or soft metal - installedbetween two metal surfaces to ensure a goodseal. For instance, the cylinder head gasketseals the joint between the block and thecylinder head.

Gauge An instrument panel display used tomonitor engine conditions. A gauge with amovable pointer on a dial or a fixed scale is ananalogue gauge. A gauge with a numericalreadout is called a digital gauge.

HHalfshaft A rotating shaft that transmitspower from the final drive unit to a drivewheel, usually when referring to a live rearaxle.Harmonic balancer A device designed toreduce torsion or twisting vibration in thecrankshaft. May be incorporated in thecrankshaft pulley. Also known as a vibrationdamper.Hone An abrasive tool for correcting smallirregularities or differences in diameter in anengine cylinder, brake cylinder, etc.Hydraulic tappet A tappet that utiliseshydraulic pressure from the engine’slubrication system to maintain zero clearance(constant contact with both camshaft andvalve stem). Automatically adjusts to variationin valve stem length. Hydraulic tappets alsoreduce valve noise.

IIgnition timing The moment at which thespark plug fires, usually expressed in thenumber of crankshaft degrees before thepiston reaches the top of its stroke.Inlet manifold A tube or housing withpassages through which flows the air-fuelmixture (carburettor vehicles and vehicles withthrottle body injection) or air only (port fuel-injected vehicles) to the port openings in thecylinder head.

Exhaust manifold

Feeler blade

Adjusting spark plug gap

Gasket

EGR valve

Glossary of Technical Terms REF•21

JJump start Starting the engine of a vehiclewith a discharged or weak battery byattaching jump leads from the weak battery toa charged or helper battery.

LLoad Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV) Abrake hydraulic system control valve thatworks like a proportioning valve, but alsotakes into consideration the amount of weightcarried by the rear axle.Locknut A nut used to lock an adjustmentnut, or other threaded component, in place.For example, a locknut is employed to keepthe adjusting nut on the rocker arm inposition.Lockwasher A form of washer designed toprevent an attaching nut from working loose.

MMacPherson strut A type of frontsuspension system devised by EarleMacPherson at Ford of England. In its originalform, a simple lateral link with the anti-roll barcreates the lower control arm. A long strut - anintegral coil spring and shock absorber - ismounted between the body and the steeringknuckle. Many modern so-called MacPhersonstrut systems use a conventional lower A-armand don’t rely on the anti-roll bar for location.Multimeter An electrical test instrument withthe capability to measure voltage, current andresistance.

NNOx Oxides of Nitrogen. A common toxicpollutant emitted by petrol and diesel enginesat higher temperatures.

OOhm The unit of electrical resistance. Onevolt applied to a resistance of one ohm willproduce a current of one amp.Ohmmeter An instrument for measuringelectrical resistance.O-ring A type of sealing ring made of aspecial rubber-like material; in use, the O-ringis compressed into a groove to provide thesealing action.

Overhead cam (ohc) engine An engine withthe camshaft(s) located on top of the cylinderhead(s).Overhead valve (ohv) engine An engine withthe valves located in the cylinder head, butwith the camshaft located in the engine block.Oxygen sensor A device installed in theengine exhaust manifold, which senses theoxygen content in the exhaust and convertsthis information into an electric current. Alsocalled a Lambda sensor.

PPhillips screw A type of screw head having across instead of a slot for a correspondingtype of screwdriver.Plastigage A thin strip of plastic thread,available in different sizes, used for measuringclearances. For example, a strip of Plastigageis laid across a bearing journal. The parts areassembled and dismantled; the width of thecrushed strip indicates the clearance betweenjournal and bearing.

Propeller shaft The long hollow tube withuniversal joints at both ends that carriespower from the transmission to the differentialon front-engined rear wheel drive vehicles.Proportioning valve A hydraulic controlvalve which limits the amount of pressure tothe rear brakes during panic stops to preventwheel lock-up.

RRack-and-pinion steering A steering systemwith a pinion gear on the end of the steeringshaft that mates with a rack (think of a gearedwheel opened up and laid flat). When thesteering wheel is turned, the pinion turns,moving the rack to the left or right. Thismovement is transmitted through the trackrods to the steering arms at the wheels.Radiator A liquid-to-air heat transfer devicedesigned to reduce the temperature of thecoolant in an internal combustion enginecooling system. Refrigerant Any substance used as a heattransfer agent in an air-conditioning system.R-12 has been the principle refrigerant formany years; recently, however, manufacturershave begun using R-134a, a non-CFCsubstance that is considered less harmful to

the ozone in the upper atmosphere.Rocker arm A lever arm that rocks on a shaftor pivots on a stud. In an overhead valveengine, the rocker arm converts the upwardmovement of the pushrod into a downwardmovement to open a valve.Rotor In a distributor, the rotating deviceinside the cap that connects the centreelectrode and the outer terminals as it turns,distributing the high voltage from the coilsecondary winding to the proper spark plug.Also, that part of an alternator which rotatesinside the stator. Also, the rotating assemblyof a turbocharger, including the compressorwheel, shaft and turbine wheel.Runout The amount of wobble (in-and-outmovement) of a gear or wheel as it’s rotated.The amount a shaft rotates “out-of-true.” Theout-of-round condition of a rotating part.

SSealant A liquid or paste used to preventleakage at a joint. Sometimes used inconjunction with a gasket.Sealed beam lamp An older headlight designwhich integrates the reflector, lens andfilaments into a hermetically-sealed one-pieceunit. When a filament burns out or the lenscracks, the entire unit is simply replaced.Serpentine drivebelt A single, long, wideaccessory drivebelt that’s used on somenewer vehicles to drive all the accessories,instead of a series of smaller, shorter belts.Serpentine drivebelts are usually tensioned byan automatic tensioner.

Shim Thin spacer, commonly used to adjustthe clearance or relative positions betweentwo parts. For example, shims inserted into orunder bucket tappets control valveclearances. Clearance is adjusted bychanging the thickness of the shim.Slide hammer A special puller that screwsinto or hooks onto a component such as ashaft or bearing; a heavy sliding handle on theshaft bottoms against the end of the shaft toknock the component free.Sprocket A tooth or projection on theperiphery of a wheel, shaped to engage with achain or drivebelt. Commonly used to refer tothe sprocket wheel itself.Starter inhibitor switch On vehicles with anO-ring

Serpentine drivebelt

Plastigage

REF

REF•22 Glossary of Technical Termsautomatic transmission, a switch thatprevents starting if the vehicle is not in Neutralor Park.Strut See MacPherson strut.

TTappet A cylindrical component whichtransmits motion from the cam to the valvestem, either directly or via a pushrod androcker arm. Also called a cam follower.Thermostat A heat-controlled valve thatregulates the flow of coolant between thecylinder block and the radiator, so maintainingoptimum engine operating temperature. Athermostat is also used in some air cleaners inwhich the temperature is regulated.Thrust bearing The bearing in the clutchassembly that is moved in to the release leversby clutch pedal action to disengage theclutch. Also referred to as a release bearing.Timing belt A toothed belt which drives thecamshaft. Serious engine damage may resultif it breaks in service.Timing chain A chain which drives thecamshaft.Toe-in The amount the front wheels arecloser together at the front than at the rear. Onrear wheel drive vehicles, a slight amount oftoe-in is usually specified to keep the frontwheels running parallel on the road byoffsetting other forces that tend to spread thewheels apart.Toe-out The amount the front wheels arecloser together at the rear than at the front. On

front wheel drive vehicles, a slight amount oftoe-out is usually specified.Tools For full information on choosing andusing tools, refer to the Haynes AutomotiveTools Manual.Tracer A stripe of a second colour applied toa wire insulator to distinguish that wire fromanother one with the same colour insulator.Tune-up A process of accurate and carefuladjustments and parts replacement to obtainthe best possible engine performance.Turbocharger A centrifugal device, driven byexhaust gases, that pressurises the intake air.Normally used to increase the power outputfrom a given engine displacement, but canalso be used primarily to reduce exhaustemissions (as on VW’s “Umwelt” Dieselengine).

UUniversal joint or U-joint A double-pivotedconnection for transmitting power from adriving to a driven shaft through an angle. A U-joint consists of two Y-shaped yokes and across-shaped member called the spider.

VValve A device through which the flow ofliquid, gas, vacuum, or loose material in bulkmay be started, stopped, or regulated by amovable part that opens, shuts, or partially

obstructs one or more ports or passageways.A valve is also the movable part of such adevice.Valve clearance The clearance between thevalve tip (the end of the valve stem) and therocker arm or tappet. The valve clearance ismeasured when the valve is closed.Vernier caliper A precision measuringinstrument that measures inside and outsidedimensions. Not quite as accurate as amicrometer, but more convenient.Viscosity The thickness of a liquid or itsresistance to flow.Volt A unit for expressing electrical “pressure”in a circuit. One volt that will produce a currentof one ampere through a resistance of oneohm.

WWelding Various processes used to join metalitems by heating the areas to be joined to amolten state and fusing them together. Formore information refer to the HaynesAutomotive Welding Manual.Wiring diagram A drawing portraying thecomponents and wires in a vehicle’s electricalsystem, using standardised symbols. Formore information refer to the HaynesAutomotive Electrical and Electronic SystemsManual.

AAccelerator

cable - 4•4

pedal - 4•5

Aerial - 12•15

Air filter and cleaner - 1•2, 1•17, 4•3

Alternator - 5C•4

Anti-roll bars - 10•11

Antifreeze - 0•12, 0•16, 1•1, 1•18

Auxiliary drivebelt check - 1•14

BBattery - 0•7, 0•14, 1•12, 5C•2

Bearingsengine - 2A•11, 2B•13

front hub (wheel) - 10•5

rear hub (wheel) - 10•9

Blower motor - 3•5

Body damage - 11•2

Body mouldings - 11•15

Body electrical systems - 12•1 et seqBodywork maintenance - 11•1

Bodywork and fittings - 11•1 et seqBonnet - 11•4

Braking system - 9•1 et seqbleeding the brakes - 9•2

brake fluid - 0•12, 0•16, 1•17

brake pad/shoe check - 1•7

brake (and clutch) pedal - 6•3

brake warning lamps - 9•11

fault finding - REF•12, REF•16

front brake disc - 9•4

front caliper - 9•3

front disc pads - 9•3

handbrake - 1•13

handbrake cables - 9•9

handbrake lever - 9•10

hydraulic pipes - 9•8

master cylinder - 9•7

pressure control valve - 9•8

rear brake linings - 9•5

rear wheel cylinder - 9•6

rear brake drum - 9•7

vacuum servo unit - 9•9

Bulbs - 12•5, 12•6, 12•7, 12•9

Bumpers - 11•10

CCables

accelerator - 4•4choke - 4•5clutch - 6•3handbrake - 9•9speedometer - 12•11throttle - 4•4

Caliper piston, front - 9•3Camshaft - 2B•7, 2B•14Camshaft oil seal - 2B•7Carburettor - 1•8, 4•1, 4•6Carpets - 11•2Choke cable - 4•5Cigar lighter - 12•5Clock - 12•5Clutch - 6•1 et seq

cable - 6•3fault finding - REF•12, REF•15pedal - 6•3release bearing - 6•2removal and refitting - 6•1

Coil springs - 10•11Condenser - 5A•3Connecting rods/pistons - 2A•6, 2A•11,

2A•13, 2B•10, 2B•15Contents - 0•2Coolant - 0•12, 0•16, 1•1, 1•18Cooling, heating and

ventilation systems - 3•1 et seqblower motor - 3•5draining - 1•18expansion tank - 3•4fault finding - REF•12, REF•14flushing - 1•18heater - 3•4, 3•6, 12•4pump - 3•3radiator and fan - 3•3refilling - 1•18temperature gauge sender unit - 3•7thermostat - 3•2

Courtesy light switch - 12•4Crankcase ventilation system check - 1•16Crankshaft - 2A•11, 2B•13Crankshaft oil seals - 2A•6, 2B•9CVH engine repair procedures - 2B•1 et seqCylinder bores - 2A•11Cylinder head - 2A•4, 2A•13, 2B•8, 2B•14,

2B•15

DDents - 11•2Dimensions and weights - REF•1Disc pads, front - 9•3Discs, front brake - 9•4Distributor cap - 1•11Distributor - 5A•2Doors - 11•6Driveshafts - 8•1 et seq

fault finding - REF•12, REF•15intermediate - 8•4joint bellows - 8•3joints - 8•2oil seal - 8•2overhaul - 8•6removal and refitting - 8•5

Driving lamps - 12•9Drums, rear brake - 9•5, 9•7

EEarth fault - 12•3Electrical system fault finding - 12•2, REF•12,

REF•17Emission control components - 1•17, 4•18Engine

auxiliary drivebelt check - 1•14camshaft - 2B•7, 2B•14camshaft oil seal - 2B•7crankshaft - 2A•11, 2B•13crankshaft oil seal - 2A•6, 2B•9cylinder bores - 2A•11cylinder head - 2A•4, 2A•13, 2B•8, 2B•14,

2B•15dismantling - 2A•9, 2B•12examination - 2A•11, 2B•131fault finding - REF•12, REF•13flywheel - 2A•12idle speed check - 1•8oil - 0•11, 0•16, 1•1, 1•6oil filter - 1•2, 1•6, 2A•7oil pump - 2A•7, 2A•12, 2B•13oil seals - 2B•14, REF•4piston rings - 2A•11piston/connecting rods - 2A•6, 2A•11,

2A•13, 2B•10, 2B•15reassembly - 2A•14, 2B•16rocker arms - 2B•14rocker gear - 2A•6

Index REF•23

REF

Note: References throughout this index are in the form - “Chapter number”•“page number”

sump - 2A•5, 2B•10timing belt - 2B•5timing check - 1•11timing sprockets and chain - 2A•12timing sprockets and belt - 2B•13valves - 1•2, 1•12, 2A•3, 2B•3, 2B•5

Engine removal/reconnection - 2A•8, 2A•15,2B•11, 2B•18

Engine/transmission mountings - 2A•7Environmental considerations - REF•4Exhaust system check - 1•8, 4•17Expansion tank - 3•4

FFacia - 11•11Facia panel switches - 12•4Fault finding - REF•12 et seq

braking system - REF•12, REF•16clutch - REF•12, REF•15cooling system - REF•12, REF•14driveshafts - REF•12, REF•15electrical system - REF•12, REF•17engine - REF•12, REF•13fuel and exhaust systems - REF•12, REF•14gearbox - REF•12, REF•15steering and suspension - REF•12, REF•16

Flywheel - 2A•12Foglamp bulb - 12•7Fuel and exhaust systems - 4•1 et seq

air cleaner and filter - 1•2, 1•17, 4•3carburettors - 1•8, 4•6choke cable - 4•5emission control components - 1•17, 4•18exhaust system - 1•8, 4•17fault finding - REF•12, REF•14fuel pump - 4•3fuel tank - 4•4idle/mixture speed - 1•8, 1•9throttle cable - 4•4throttle damper - 1•12

Fuses - 0•13, 12•2, 12•3

GGearbox - see Manual gearboxGearchange mechanism - 7•2 Glass - 11•6, 11•9, 11•10Glossary of technical terms - REF•18Glovebox lamp - 12•6

HHandbrake

adjustment - 9•9cables - 9•9check - 1•13lever - 9•10warning light switch - 12•4

Hazard warning bulb - 12•6Headlamp

alignment - 12•8bulb - 12•6unit - 12•8

Heater illumination bulbs - 12•6Heater - 3•6Heater controls - 3•4Heater motor switch - 12•4Heating systems - 3•1 et seqHorn - 12•11HT leads - 1•11, 5B•3Hub bearings - 10•5, 10•9Hydraulic system bleeding - 9•2

IIdentification numbers - REF•2, REF•3Idle speed check - 1•8Ignition system (electronic) - 5B•1 et seqIgnition system (mechanical) - 5A•1 et seqIgnition timing - 1•11, 5A•2, 5B•6Ignition lock cylinder - 5A•4Ignition amplifier module - 5B•6Indicator lamps - 12•7, 12•8Instrument cluster unit - 12•10

Interior lamp - 12•6Introduction - 0•4

JJacking and vehicle support - REF•5Jump starting - 0•7

LLeaks - 0•9, 1•7, 8•2Lamps

bulb renewal, exterior - 12•6bulb renewal, interior - 12•6checking - 0•13¶removal and refitting - 12•8

Loudspeaker - 12•14Lubricants and fluids - 0•16Luggage compartment bulbs - 12•6

MMaintenance schedule - 1•3Manual gearbox - 7•1 et seq

fault finding - REF•12, REF•15gearchange mechanism - 7•2oil - 0•16oil level check - 1•14overhaul - 7•7removal and refitting - 7•5

Master cylinder - 9•7Mirrors - 11•6, 11•10Mixture adjustment check - 1•9MOT test checks - REF•8

NNumber plate light - 12•7

OOHV engine repair procedures - 2A•1 et seqOil filter - 1•2, 1•6, 2A•7, 2B•11

REF•24 Index

Oil pump - 2A•7, 2A•12, 2B•13Oil seals - 2B•14, REF•4Oil

capacities - 1•1engine - 0•11, 1•1, 1•6gearbox - 1•14recommended types - 0•16

PParking lamp bulb - 12•7Parts - REF•3Pedals

accelerator - 4•5brake and clutch - 6•3

Piston rings - 2A•11Pistons/connecting rods - 2A•6, 2A•11, 2A•13,

2B•10, 2B•15Punctures - 0•8

RRadiator - 3•3

draining, flushing and refilling - 1•18fan - 3•3grille - 11•4

Radio/cassette player - 12•13Rear lamp - 12•7, 12•8Rear axle unit - 10•12Relays - 12•2, 12•3Respraying - 11•2Reversing light switch - 12•5Rocker gear - 2A•6Rocker arms - 2B•14Routine maintenance - 1•1 et seq

SSafety first - 0•5Seat belts - 1•8, 11•14Seats - 11•14Servo unit - 9•9Shock absorber - 10•10

Short circuit - 12•3Spare parts - REF•3Spark plugs - 1•2, 1•10, 1•14, 5B•3Speaker - 12•14Specifications - see start of ChapterSpeedometer

cable - 12•11drive - 7•7

Spoilers - 11•11Starter motor - 5C•6Starting problems - 0•6Starting and charging systems - 5C•1 et seqSteering - 10•1 et seq

and suspension check - 1•15angles - 10•4column - 10•2column switches - 12•4fault finding - REF•12, REF•16gear - 10•4gear bellows - 10•3tie-rod end balljoint - 10•4wheel alignment -10•4wheel - 10•2

Sump - 2A•5, 2B•10Sunroof - 11•12Suspension and steering - 10•1 et seq

fault finding - REF•12, REF•16front lower arm - 10•7front strut (shock absorber) - 10•8front tie-bar 10•7hub bearings - 10•5, 10•9panhard rod - 10•10rear axle - 10•12rear coil springs - 10•11rear shock absorber - 10•10

Switches - 12•4

TTailgate - 11•5Temperature gauge sender unit - 3•7Thermostat - 3•2

Throttle damper - 1•12Throttle cable - 4•4Throttle pedal - 4•5Tie-rod end balljoint - 10•4Timing belt - 2B•5Timing, ignition - 1•11, 5A•2, 5B•6Timing sprockets and belt - 2B•13Timing sprockets and chain - 2A•12Tools - REF•4, REF•6Transmission - see Manual gearboxTyre

checks - 0•15pressures - 0•16sizes - 1•2

UUnderbody inspection - 1•15Underbonnet views - 0•10, 1•4Upholstery - 11•2

VValves - 1•2, 1•12, 2A•3, 2B•3, 2B•5Vehicle identification number - REF•2, REF•3Vents - 11•11

WWasher fluid - 0•13Washer pumps - 12•12, 12•13Weekly checks - 0•10 et seqWheel changing - 0•8Wheel alignment - 10•4Wheel arch cover - 11•15Wheel cylinder rear - 9•6Window regulator - 11•8Windows - 11•9Windscreen washers - 12•12Windscreen - 11•10Wiper motors - 12•11, 12•12Wiper blades and arms - 0•14, 12•11Wiring diagrams - 12•16 et seq

Index REF•25

REF

Almost every car you’ve ever loved, loathed or desired is gathered under one roof at the Haynes MotorMuseum. Over 300 immaculately presented cars and motorbikes represent every aspect of our motoring

heritage, from elegant reminders of bygone days, such as the superb Model J Duesenberg to curiosities likethe bug-eyed BMW Isetta. There are also many old friends and flames. Perhaps you remember the 1959 Ford

Popular that you did your courting in? The magnificent ‘Red Collection’ is a spectacle of classic sports carsincluding AC, Alfa Romeo, Austin Healey, Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati, MG, Riley, Porsche and Triumph.

A Perfect Day OutEach and every vehicle at the Haynes Motor Museum has played its part in the history and culture of

Motoring. Today, they make a wonderful spectacle and a great day out for all the family. Bring the kids, bringMum and Dad, but above all bring your camera to capture those golden memories for ever. You will also find

an impressive array of motoring memorabilia, a comfortable 70 seat video cinema and one of the mostextensive transport book shops in Britain. The Pit Stop Cafe serves everything from a cup of tea to

wholesome, home-made meals or, if you prefer, you can enjoy the large picnic area nestled in the beautifulrural surroundings of Somerset.

The Museum is situated on the A359 Yeovil to Frome road at Sparkford, just off the A303 in Somerset. It is about 40 miles south of Bristol, and 25 minutes drive from the M5 intersection at Taunton.

Open 9.30am - 5.30pm (10.00am - 4.00pm Winter) 7 days a week, except Christmas Day, Boxing Day and New Years DaySpecial rates available for schools, coach parties and outings Charitable Trust No. 292048

>John Haynes O.B.E.,

Founder andChairman of the

museum at the wheelof a Haynes Light 12.

<Graham Hill’s LolaCosworth Formula 1car next to a 1934Riley Sports.

<The Model J DuesenbergDerham Tourster. Only eight of thesemagnificent cars wereever built – this is theonly example to be foundoutside the UnitedStates of America

Preserving Our Motoring Heritage

chapter 1 routine maintenance and servicing - ford euro...

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