Chapter 11

More Elements of Design

The Design Process

Step 1: Basic Decisions

Many decisions are made before the designing process ever begins. Fabric choice

Season may determine weight and color of the fabric Design ideas for the garment Number of items to be made and sold Type of promotion to retail stores

Step 2: Design Concept and Samples

Sketches or diagrams are prepared to illustrate the design, incorporating color and fabric choices. Hand-drawn designs Computer-added designs (CAD)

Patterns and samples are produced, but not all of the proposed designs for a line are actually made.

Designers edit and change concepts during this phase so garments will be suitable for sale.

Step 3:Sales Research Analysis

Designer/manufacturers sales departments keep records that show the history of styles previously offered and the quantities and prices of styles that sold. Information helps the manufacturer determine

how much should be produced and where to offer the merchandise.

When the lines are previewed and evaluated by retail buyers, manufacturers may decide to produce a greater selection of styles and increase the quantity of certain sizes.

Step 4:Design Presentation

The times that new collections are introduced varies according to each market, i.e., women’s lines are shown at different times than men’s wear and children’s wear.

When the new collection or line is ready to be shown: Some designers participate in elaborate fashion

weeks that are hosted by major design centers Others have their merchandise available for

preview to buyers in their showrooms in fashion centers

Step 5:Purchase Orders

Retail buyers begin purchasing merchandise for their stores when new items have been presented.

Certain styles may be eliminated from a line due to the number of orders placed by retail buyers.

Step 6:Production

The final samples and fittings take place; then final patterns are made, and sewing is done. Manufacturers use assembly-line production Computerized equipment aids in constructing

each part of a garment

Elements of Design

Color Most exciting design element Enables us to express ourselves

Shape Form or silhouette of a garment; overall

outline Reveals whether or not clothing is in

fashion. Gives impression of the size of the wearer

Line Distinct, elongated mark, as if drawn by a

pencil or pen Have direction, width and length Three types: straight, jagged, or curved

Texture Surface quality of goods How the fabrics surface feels and looks The “character” of the fabric

Using Shape in Clothing To appear taller or more slender:

Trim, compact silhouettes make people look smaller. Straight, tubular shapes seem to add height. Straight silhouettes give the impression of slimness. Bell shapes emphasize the smallness of waistlines. Vertical stripes or lines in clothing make a shape seem taller and

slimmer.

To give a shorter, wider appearance: Full, wide clothing shapes make people look larger. Bell or back fullness silhouettes emphasize width and cut height. Form-fitting clothes reveal any unattractive contours that a body

might have. Two-piece outfits add width by cutting the body with a horizontal

line. Horizontal stripes or lines in clothing make a shape seem shorter

and wider. If shoulders seem too narrow, wear a wide V-neckline

Facial Shapes Face shape should be

considered in fashion.

The neckline of apparel frames the face. Oval Rectangular/Oblong Round Square Heart Triangular Diamond

Determine your face shape... Hold or tie your hair back. Close one eye and trace the

reflection of your face in a mirror with the edge of a piece of soap.

Oval can wear any neckline shape.

Rectangular or oblong should wear wide, horizontal neckline designs.

V-necklines are attractive with round face shapes.

Types of Lines Straight

Bold and severe Suggest dignity, power, and formality Give steadiness or stability, but if overdone, they give

a stiff look Created with seams going down legs or at the hemline

Curved Can be rounded or circular, or somewhat flattened out Increase the size and shape of the figure Less conservative, formal, and powerful than straight ones Add interest and smoothness and accent natural curves in the body Found in round scoop necklines and along scalloped edges

Jagged Change direction abruptly and with sharp points like zigzags Designed into clothing with rickrack, fabric prints, or intentional

seaming

Line Directions Vertical

Go up and down; give the impression of added height and slimness Give a feeling of dignity, strength, poise, and sophistication Found along the front of a shirt, a center back seam, and in princess seam

lines Give the feeling of dignity, poise, and strength

Horizontal Go from side to side; give the impression of less height and more width Give a relaxed and calm feeling and suggest rest and gentleness Found around the waistline and at the bottom edge of a jacket or skirt

Diagonal Slanted, either vertically or horizontally Vertical slants are slenderizing, and horizontal slants add width The degree of slant determines the visual effect Found in V-necklines, along collar lapels, down the edge of overlapping

closings, edges of flared skirts and bell-bottom trousers Chevrons are created when fabric stripes are cut on the diagonal grain and

matched at the seamlines, creating a pattern having the shape of a “V”

Line Applications Structural

Formed when parts of the garment are constructed, such as seams, darts, pleats, tucks, and edges

Assembly details that create visual interest

Can look decorative but are structural since they are a necessary part of the garment’s construction

Decorative Applied lines that are

created by adding details to the surface of the clothing

Can be formed with ruffles, braid, fringe, edgings, top-stitching, lace, tabs, flaps, appliqués, or buttons

Can also be created with accessories, such as scarves and necklaces

Should be in harmony with an outfit’s structured lines -- often accentuate structural lines through repetition and contrast

Use of Lines in Clothing

The more elaborate the combination of lines in an outfit, more attention will be drawn to the person wearing it.

When lines cross each other, they draw attention to the area where they cross.

Different lines are combined in apparel design that create various predictable effects, through structural and decorative application, along garment edges, and inside the edges of outfits.

For a taller, thinner look, select lines that keep the eye moving up the figure without interruption.

For a shorter, wider look, put horizontal lines across the body, especially where width is desired.

Creating Illusions with Lines Straight Line

To create the illusion of more height and slimness, choose a narrow overall shape with vertical lines added.

Arrow Lines that form an arrow tend to deflect the gaze downward and shorten the height

of a person. “T”

Lines that form a “T” stop the upward movement of the eye causing width to be given to the top.

Perfect shape for someone withnarrow shoulders and wide hips

“I” Lines that form an “I” tend to give

a vertical feeling that is contained at the top or bottom and make the body look somewhat taller and thinner.

“Y” Lines that form a “Y” keep the gaze from moving upward and more height is given

to the body with a raised collar or a V-neckline.

Structural Texture Bulky, warm fabrics add visual size

and can overpower a small person. Smooth, flat textures, like percale,

wool, or crepe, make people look smaller.

Shiny textures tend to make the body look larger, emphasize body contours, and make the fabric colors seem lighter and brighter.

Rough textures tend to subdue the colors of fabrics.

Sheer fabrics subdue colors and reveal the true body shape.

Dull textures make a person look smaller because they absorb light.

Clinging, soft textures reveal the body’s silhouette and emphasize any heavy areas, so they are good for draped designs.

Stiff, crisp textures make the total shape look bigger because they stand away from the body.

Examples of Texture Rough Smooth Dull Shiny Firm Crisp Fuzzy Bulky Soft Shaggy Flat Harsh Sheer Loopy Furry Scratchy Pebbly Delicate Sparkling Fine

Created when fabrics or garments are manufactured.

Shiny, delicate, sparkling, fine

Fuzzy, shaggy, soft

Added Visual Texture Printed onto the surface of fabrics

or garments Print is the overall pattern created

by design motifs Motif is one unit of a design that is

usually repeated Added prints

Can give overall vertical, horizontal, diagonal, curved, or jagged feeling

Can be small, medium, or large Can be quiet and subtle or loud

and bold Diminish the effect of structural and

decorative garment design lines Large, bold patterns increase the

size of the wearer Small, subdued, overall prints tend

to make a person look smaller