chapter 2 indian textile and readymade garment...

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Chapter 2 Indian Textile and Readymade Garment sector .:. History of Textiles: - History of textiles is as old as human civilization. In India the entry of silk was introduced in 400AD and spinning of cotton was started in 3000BC. In China spin silk method was initiated at 2640 BC. In Egypt the art of spinning linen and weaving developed in 3400 BC. The innovation of machines and their processing was started between 18 th and 19 th centuries. At that time, discoveries of various synthetic fibers like nylon had been started. On the basis of that market become very huge. Moreover, different arts and designs of textile were spreading with the help of facilities like transportation and communication . :. World's Textile Industry: - At the end of 1980s the top four garment exporters in the world were Hong Kong, Italy, Korea, and Taiwan. That time US, EU, China, India etc. countries were not on the chart. To observe some major changes in world's textile industry, some of the best examples are given below, The United States and the EU together imported more than 70% of world's clothing imports in 1996. In the year 1996 United States and the EU imported clothing worth $43.3 billion and $80.9 billion respectively. International exports of textiles and readymade garments increases up to US $300 billion per year, in which one third percent is contributed by developing countries. While, today China is the largest exporter in the world. Other developing countries such as India, Bangladesh, Thailand, Indonesia, Sri Lanka, Pakistan, etc. are producing readymade garments in particular quantity. 44

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Chapter 2

Indian Textile and Readymade Garment sector

.:. History of Textiles: -

History of textiles is as old as human civilization. In India the entry of silk was introduced

in 400AD and spinning of cotton was started in 3000BC. In China spin silk method was

initiated at 2640 BC. In Egypt the art of spinning linen and weaving developed in 3400

BC.

The innovation of machines and their processing was started between 18th and 19th

centuries. At that time, discoveries of various synthetic fibers like nylon had been

started. On the basis of that market become very huge. Moreover, different arts and

designs of textile were spreading with the help of facilities like transportation and

communication .

• :. World's Textile Industry: -

At the end of 1980s the top four garment exporters in the world were Hong Kong, Italy,

Korea, and Taiwan. That time US, EU, China, India etc. countries were not on the chart.

To observe some major changes in world's textile industry, some of the best examples

are given below,

The United States and the EU together imported more than 70% of world's clothing

imports in 1996. In the year 1996 United States and the EU imported clothing worth

$43.3 billion and $80.9 billion respectively.

International exports of textiles and readymade garments increases up to US $300

billion per year, in which one third percent is contributed by developing countries. While,

today China is the largest exporter in the world. Other developing countries such as

India, Bangladesh, Thailand, Indonesia, Sri Lanka, Pakistan, etc. are producing

readymade garments in particular quantity.

44

In 2004, out of total consumption maximum world consumption of clothing and textiles

was carried out by US and EU that was 64% and 39% respectively. Among all, only US

has consumed US$ 15 billion and is growing at 5% per year. Generally, it has been

obselVed that countries like Japan, Australia and New Zealand have consumed

significant market of the home textile.

The global textile and clothing industry in 2006 was worth US$ 4,395 billion, with

clothing accounting for 60% of the market and textiles the remaining 40% respectively.

Global trade in textile and clothing is currently at US$ 356 billion and is expected to

grow to US$ 600 billion by 2010 .

• :. Indian Textile Industry: -

Indian textile tradition is one of the oldest traditions in the world. In Rigveda many

philosophers had also enlightened about textiles and weaving. Ramayana and

Mahabharata also described Indian classic garment stories. The traditional stories

portrayed that landlords used to wear stylist and rich garments where as common

people worn simple and ordinary clothes.

All over the world Indian textile industry is considered to be the second largest industry.

In India, cotton terrain is accounted to be of 9 million hectares and is considered to be

the third largest producer of fiber. The growth of Indian textile industry is due to the

following factors: -

• Easy availability of raw materials like cotton and silk

• Highly spread social customs

• Variety of distinct local culture

• Favorable geographic and climatic conditions

Indian textile industry contributes significantly in the total world export market. In our

export basket some items have their important share such as cotton yarn and fabrics,

man-made yarn and fabrics, wool and silk fabrics, readymade garments etc. Countries

45

like USA, EU member states, Canada, U.A.E., Japan, Saudi Arabia, Republic of Korea,

Bangladesh, Turkey etc. are the major importers of Indian textile goods.

Textile industry is divided in various segments as follows,

- Readymade garments Industry

- Cotton Industry

- Woolen Industry

- Silk Industry

- Jute Industry

- Man-made Industry

- Handloom and Handicraft Industry

• Cotton Industry: -

Cotton is the major fabric used in the Indian textile industry. It is assumed that textile

companies spend 60% money behind production of cotton textiles. Moreover, in India

spinning mill produces 75% cotton textiles. India is among the world's largest producers

of cotton. Approximately, Indian farmers spend 9 million hectares only for crop of cotton.

In last five years India's cotton production is increased by 57%. It is very hard to believe

that during 2005-06, exports of cotton were amounted to US$ 4.49 billion. It was

increased by 26.78% than the period of 2004-05·

• Wool Industry: -

In India, initially wool production was carried out by Punjab, Haryana, and Rajasthan.

Today compared to the other states, only these three states are producing more than 75

percent wool. There are more than 700 registered units in this sector and more than

7000 powerlooms units working in this sector. The Woolen industry provides

employment to approximately 1.2 million people.

Woolen industries are also giving good business to India. In the year of 2004-05, India

had exported US$ 0.42 billion woolen garments to all over the world this was 23.4

percent more than 2003-04. While at the end of 2005-06, total woolen exported were

US$ 0.47 billion that was 13.63 percent more than 2004-05. During the first quarter of

46

-------------------------------- ---

2006-07, the woolen textile exported was amounted to US$ 0.114 billion, which was

11.96 percent more over than the 2004-05.

• Silk Industry: -

India is the second largest producer of silk in the world. The value of silk fabrics

produced in India in 2002-2003 was over US$ 1.78 billion. India also exported over US$

190 million of silk goods and over US$ 357 million of silk yarn, fabrics and made-ups.

Since the exports of hand loom products are growing up, it encourages the demand of

silk also.

During 2004-05, India had exported US$ 0.59 billion, which was 9 percent more than

2003-04. In 2005-06, India had exported US$ 0.69 billion this was 16.37 percent more

than 2004-05. It was also estimated that during the first quarters 2006-07, silk exported

was amounted to US$ 0.165 billion, which improved 4.23 percent compared to the

2005-06.

• Jute Industry: -

Jute industries have occupied an important place in the Indian economy. Jute industries

spread mostly in eastern region, particularly in West Bengal. It supports nearly 4 million

farming families. Moreover, nearly 2,60,000 industrial workers get employment through

this business.

In the year 2004-05, export figure was US$ 0.276 billion, which was more than 14%

compared to 2003-04. During the year of 2005-06, export of jute was amounted to US$

0.295 billion, recording an increase of 6.64% was observed compared to 2004-05.

During the first quarter of 2006-07, total export was US$ 0.065 billion.

• Man-made Industry: -

In 2004-05, India had exported man-made textile of US$ 2.05 billion this was more than

12.6% compared to 2003-04. In 2005-06, this industry has earned more than US$ 2

billion. However, in this first quarter of 2006-07, export business of man-made textile

had earned US$ 0.52 billion, which is more than 13.15% than the 2005-06. '

47

• Handloom and Handicraft Industry: -

The hand loom sector is based on Indian traditional crafts. Through this business 7.5

million people gets employment in which 13 percent people get employment through

cloth production. According to India government, during the first quarter of 2006-07

India had exported US$ 1.25 billion handloom products, which is 25.70% more than

2005-06

India has been doing highest production in loomage [including handloomsJ. India's

contribution in world loomage is 61 %. In the world production of fibers and yarns India

has contributed 12%. Indian products of handicrafts and hand looms are exported in

more than hundred countries.

Indian textile has covered different positions such as, it is the largest producer of jute,

second largest producer of silk, third largest producer of cotton and fifth largest

producer of synthetic fibers and yarns.

Readymade garments have contributed largely in Indian textile industry business.

Without clothing segments textile sector is known as technical textiles. Some of the

examples of technical textiles are bed sheets, filtration and abrasive, thermal protection

blood absorbing materials, seatbelts, and other products and applications. Technical

textiles require costly machinery and skilled workers.

Indian textiles were popular in prehistoric world therefore India had numerous trade

links with the outside world. Indian silk was very popular in Rome in the early centuries

of the Christian era. During the 13th century, silk fabrics from south India were exported

to Indonesia. India had also exported printed cotton fabrics or chintz (cotton cloth,

usually printed with flowery patterns, that has a slightly shiny appearance) in European

countries. The British East India Company had also done business of Indian cotton and

silk, including the very famous Dacca muslins (a very thin cotton material).

Manufacturing of Muslins was done in Bengal, Bihar and Orissa. Indian patterns,

designs, materials are very popular in the world. Moreover, our old weaving technology

still gives the employment to our workers.

48

Companies of textiles are making different fabrics with the help of dissimilar ideas and

skills. Indian designers and suppliers are improving their skills and designing different

garments for different markets. Fashion designers and experts make fabric according to

current trend and choice of buyer. Using the different techniques and keen craftsmen,

designers can create extremely elegant fabrics. Such techniques are very popular in

modem textile markets viz. lace making, patchwork, run making, spinning, weaving,

tapestry, batik, tie dyeing etc. Indian fashion industries and Indian fashion designers are

getting fame and prestige on intemational stage. Moreover, some international brands

like Levis, Wal-mart, JC Penny, Gap, Marks and Spencer and other industries are

sourcing more and more garments and fabrics from India. Viz. 'Alone Wal-Mart' had

purchased products of $200 millions and they develop the plan to increase buying up to

$3 billions in the coming years.

In last five years government invested Rs. 50,000 crore in the textile industry. Nine

major textile industries devoted RS.2600 crore and prepare to spend another RS.6400

crore. Indian govemment would provide Rs. 1,057 crore for building textile parks.

Government sanctioned 30 projects for textiles. Furthermore, to provide a motivation of

textile sector Indian government has taken initiatives and included new plans in the year

of 2007-08. Government prepared different schemes such as to attract foreign

investment companies they made different promotion plans, to give acceptability of

Indian product in outside of India they took public-private partnership approach, built

trade facilitation centers, create fashion hubs for Indian fashion industry, etc. for the

development of textile industry.

Though there are many countries which manufacture and exports fabrics in different

markets, but Indian textiles industry had established their own place in global market.

Indian fabrics are available in cheap price because productions of fabrics in very wide

range in India. In the textiles sector India has different variety like garments, Bed Linen,

Curtains, designer Shoes etc. Experts are using different techniques for making

Bandhni, Batik print, Block print, hand bock etc. Indian textiles industry does not have a

magnificent past but it is also improving according to modern era.

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The Indian textile industry is one of the largest and most important sector in the

economy, in term of output, foreign exchange earnings and employment. It contributes

20 percent of industrial production, 9 percent of excise collections, and 18 percent of

employment in industrial sector, approximately 20 percent to the country's total export

earning and 4 percent to the GOP .

• :. Strength of Indian Textiles: -

• Low costs: -

Compared to other countries in India raw material costs, wastage and labour are

significantly lower. According to the recent analysis India's labour cost [total

employment cost for labour across industries] is lowest (2.024 Euro) in the world.

• Manufacturing flexibility: -

Indian textile industry has created flexibility in production, with the help of industrial

structure and small average scale of operation. Moreover, Indian firms have skillful

manpower with the ability and willingness to work on complex designs. Only for that

India has the capability to produce large, small and complex orders.

• Favorable demand conditions: -

Indian consumers have become more aware about the readymade garments. The

purchasing power of consumers is increasing day by day. Domestic markets are

highly affected with the changes on the demand. This type of changes provides

large opportunity to producers, wholesalers and retailers.

• Strong presence of related and supporting industries: -

Many large companies and group of textile industries provide constant help to small

textile companies. They are providing input and output goods, which are essential

for each industry.

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• Textile machinery: -

Indian textile industry has tremendous engineers. Our engineers are able to make

good machines as compared to other nations. Indian manufacturers have

sophisticated machines, which have higher speed and more production capacity.

• Industry competition: -

Because of high competition, companies produce innovative and large number of

products. Moreover, it improves the quality of product with lower range. It is good for

the customer because they will get various and qualitative products at lower price.

According to 11M (indian Institute of Management, Ahmedabad), indian textile industries

have some minus points, such as:-

Long manufacturing and delivery time. lojJ3<

Competition and conflict between small, medium and large players.

Use of supply chain is poor.

Control process is defective.

Usage of outdated technology.

Weaker research and development process.

Indian textile firms are giving 10 hours training to experience workers, on the

other side Chinese textile firms are giving 70 hours training.

Textile and readymade garment sector are facing some other problems like:-

In India textile business is highly affected by unfavorable policy.

Market size of textile industry is very big. So, manufacturer and retailer are also

not sure about the market. This happens only because of split and unorganized

market. Companies consider only those data's which is available.

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--------------------- ~-

.:. Import and Export of Indian Textiles: -

Indian exports in 1998-99 were approximately $106.54 million that were increased in

1999-2000 to $112.60 million. Figure 8 indicates yearly export (2002 to 2007) of Indian

textile and garments in all over the world. It is clear from the figure that in 2002 India's

total export was $11.6 billion. The Indian textile exports have augmented from $ 12.45

billion in 2002-03. India had been doing export of US$ 14.5 billion in 2004 in which 6

billion was accumulated by readymade garments. In 2005 export of textile and apparel

was decreased and reach at US$ 14 billion. But in the year of 2006 it again grew app.

3% and reached at the position of US$ 17.1 billion. In the present year (2007) Indian

export of textile and apparel is app. US$ 18.4 billion.

Today textile sector covers about 30% of total export. Ideally by 2010, figure of exports

will be reaching to $50 billion and from that 50% will be exported to United States. Rest

of the 50% exports will divided to different countries like UK, Germany, Russia, Italy,

Canada, Bangladesh, Japan, UAE and other big countries. Expectedly India's share in

world's textile trade will be increasing from 4% to 8% till 2010. The exports of textile and

garment are predicted to grow at a rate of 22% between 2007 and by 2012 it will be

reaching out at $ 55 billion. In India the total investment in textile industry was around

Rs. 64,478 crore in 2004-07, which is expected to reach out Rs. 150,600 crore by 2012. r------------------------------------------------.

India's textile and apparel exports I

20 USSbn 18.4

18 17.1 ,--

,--16

14.5 - 14.0

14 13.4 -,-12 11.6

,--

10

8 FY-02 FY-03 FY-04 FY-OS FY-06 FY-07P I

------------------------------------------- ______ 1

Figure 8: India's textile and apparel exports [Source: eLSA Asia-Pacific Markets,

Ministry of Textile}

52

The global trade of textile and clothing products will be growing at 8%. As per the

provisional data of Directorate General of Commercial Intelligence and Statistics

(DGCI&S) Kolkata, in April-June 2006, growth of textile exports was 15.59% in dollar

terms and of 20.54% in rupee terms, which is more than previous year [Analysis of

exports of textile items]. In 2002 Indian share was $ 353 billion and it would increase to

$ 655 billion in 2010. It is expected that Indian textile industry will be increasing at 9 to

10% and it will get the level of $115 billion by 2012.

Indian textile industry is the largest industry in terms of employment economy. Indian

textile sector provides approximately 33% employment (approximately 15 million

people) in India. It would be expected that 12 million jobs will be generated near by

2010. Indian govemment also predicted that by 2012, 17.37 million jobs will be

generated in which 12.02 million will be direct and 5.35 million will be indirect

employment. It will be a massive opportunity for the people who divert from agriculture

to industry. The textile sector has a direct link with the rural and urban agricultural

activities. Mostly crafts are being provided by such as cotton, wool, silk, handicrafts,

hand looms etc. through the fiber crops. When the crop gets developed the employment

opportunity will be created. Millions of farmers and crafts persons in rural and semi­

urban areas are eaming money through textile business. It has been estimated that one

out of every six households in the country depends directly or indirectly on this

business. For that, experts have suggested that, govemment should developed right

marketing channels, by which the farmers may get enough share of profit.

.:. Readymade garments: -

Clothes are being used by people everyday. Clothes can transmit the person's mood,

value, identity, and attitude. Person's identity is communicated by his/her clothing,

because it shows the social position of the wearer to both the wearer and the perceiver.

Damhorst emphasized that clothing was a systematic means of getting transmission,

information about the wearer, meaning that multiple messages might be sent to the

53

perceiver. Clothing is not measured only as body protection or decoration but proves to

be a useful communication tool, in human interactions.

Recently, the concept of 'readymade garment' has become more popular than in the

olden days. In the olden days people only knew traditional or self made clothes. Lower

class people were used to stitch there clothes own self where as, upper class people

used personal tailor for stitching.

In recent time buying readymade garment is more economical than stitching the

material. Buyers prefer more readymade garment than material because in stitching

material, tailors take too much time and money, as well as much variety is not exported

from them .

• :. History of Readymade Garments: -

According to archaeologists and anthropologists, the earliest clothing was probably

made by fur, leather, leaves or grass and other things. The clothes had been primarily

used for body protection. In 1988, archeologists have identified very early sewing

needles made in 30,000 BC, found from near Kostenki, Russia.

Anthropologists Ralf Kittler, Manfred Kayser and Mark Stoneking, Max Planck from the

institute for Evolutionary Anthropology, have conducted one genetic analysis of human

body lice which shows that they originated about 107,000 years ago. Since that time

human has very less hair, and body lice required clothing to survive. By using similar

genetic method second group of researcher estimated that body lice originated about

540,000 years ago. Moreover, researchers are also not clear about the date when

clothes were made first time.

In US Mayor George Opdyke started the first clothing manufacturing unit in 1831.

People of US purchased the clothes not only for an individual use but also for their

families. In 1832, the first shirt factory was established in New York. After the invention

of power loom machines, production of garment increased on huge scale. From that day

garment industry showed steady improvement. And at present, majority of the people of

the United States purchase readymade garments.

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One approach for garment is that, it is being used only to cover the body. For instance,

India men wore Dhoti and women wore saree to wrap the body. The clothes were very

simple. It may be tide up with the pins or belts. The other approach involved cutting and

sewing of the clothes. In which tailor may cut the pieces from one corner of the cloth

and then add them in other place. In Europe this approach had been used in olden

days .

• :. Readymade Garments in India: -

In India the business of readymade garment began in the early 1950s. It was the time

when different brands like Liberty shirts, Groversons innerwear and Zodiac ties

launched the concept of brands and readymade garments. Similarly, during this period

Indian entrepreneurs entered in the export business.

Nowadays in India 77,000 readymade garments units are working. These units are

divided in different zones like domestic manufacturers, manufacturer exporters and

fabricators (subcontractors). Comparing with other countries, the growth of Indian

readymade market is still in a budding phase. New foreign players are coming in the

Indian market while domestic players have no fear of any outside competition. The main

barrier in Indian market is the huge unorganized part of the market. To give good fight

to the foreign player's domestic marketers should develop specific strategy and should

try to improve the quality of garments. Textile players can easily launch a new product

with the help of inherent power. The garment companies are very different to each other

for instance, in size, production capacity, manufacturing facility, types of garments, cost,

quality and quantity, etc. Hence, readymade garment is available for the domestic and

export both markets .

• :. Import and Export of Indian Readymade garments: -

In the readymade garments sector some products become very popular on world level.

In different popular products Jerseys, Men's trousers, T-shirts, Women's trousers,

Shirts, Dresses and Skirts, Blouses, Overcoats, Underwear and Jackets have involved.

55

Out of all this products, trading of Jerseys is highest and business of Jackets is lowest

in all over the world.

In India export of Women's dresses and suits, Men's woven shirts, Women's woven

tops, T-shirts and Knitted shirts are very high. India's exports Women's dresses and

suits more than any other products.

India exports majority garments in countries like USA, EU member states, U.A.E.,

Japan, Saudi Arabia, Canada, Hong Kong, Switzerland and Australia. In India different

places like Ludhiana, Tirupur, Delhi, Bangalore, Mumbai, Chennai and Gujarat are the

major centers for garment production.

Figure 9: Most traded product categories [Source: KSA- Technopak, Raghav Gupta]

The readymade garment sector donates approximately 45% in India's total textile

exports. India's plunge in readymade garment market started in the early 80s at the

time of liberalization. When Indian economy had been reformed in early 90s garment

56

I

f

business gained force. Moreover, in the last two decades Indian readymade garment

business was detained to the tenth position in the world.

Readymade garments are India's leading and fastest growing exports products. Till

1994 India's share of world readymade garment was not too high. It was just because of

slowdown import growth of India's major markets, viz. United States and the EU.

The exports of ready made garments, was about 253.6 million pieces, (valued at US$

826.5 million) during January-February 2002. It has increased in quantitative terms to

306.1 million pieces, (valued at US$ 1137.9 million) up by 20.07% in quantity and by

37.68% in value terms, during January-February 2003, compared to same period last

year.

During the year 2004-05, it was estimated that India has exported readymade garment

up to US$ 6 billion which was increased to 4.1 compared to the year 2003-04. During

2005-06 India's total exports was US$ 7.75 billion, which were 28.69 more than the year

2004-05. During the first quarter of 2006-07, the exports of readymade garment were

US$ 2.17 billion that is 15.70 percent over than 2005 .

• :. Indian Style in Textiles and Garments: -

In the world, India is differentiated for its textile designs and manufacturing techniques.

Style of fabrics is depends upon the state's location, climatic, culture, transportation etc.

Number of individual's work on the stream of textile.

In India each and every states is famous for certain specific type of textiles. Our hilly

regions like Kashmir, Himachal Pradesh and northeastern parts are popular for its

qualitative woolen fabrics. States like Gujarat and Rajasthan are admired for its

embroidery work. South is well known for its cotton and silk fabrics.

In our country, each state has their different style and tradition. Some best examples

are given below,

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• Indian weaving is very popular in all around the world since many years. Various

states such as Assam, Bananas, Mysore, Surat, and Kanchipuram are the

important centers for silk weaving. All the centers are most popular for its silk and

cotton saris. Each type of sarees depicts arouses the different impression of

Indian tradition like Banarasi, Patola, Baluchari, Pochampalli, Paithani etc.

• In India states like Gujarat and Kutchh is well known for its bright color fabrics.

• Punjab is very famous for its phulkari work and 'Lucknow' is popular for its chikan

work.

Hand Printing:-

Hand printing is considered to be India's special textile technique that is done all over

India. Main cotton printing centers in India are Gujarat and Rajasthan. In this hand

painting usually alizarin, indigo and vegetable colors are used. Various methods of

printing such as direct printing resist printing and screen-printing are practiced in our

country.

Batik: -

It is believed that this technique is 2000 years old. Batik technique is neither art or nor

craft. In this technique resist printing is used. In the process, first cloth is painted with

molten wax and then dyed with colors. After that the cloth is washed with hot water. At

the end of the process molten wax is removed and the design or pattern emerges. In

this technique patterns can be distinguished easily but outlines are not clearly defined.

Mordants: -

Other popular method in the printing process is 'Mordants'. In this method, cloth is tied

up and dipped in the dye. After that cloth is washed with water and allowed to dry in the

sun and the colors develop. Then the untreated parts of the cloth are removed with local

ingredients.

58

In Rajasthan, Jaipur, Sanganer, Bagroo, Apli and Barmer and in Gujarat, Mandvi,

Dhamardhka, Mundra, Anjar, Jamnagar, Surrendranagar, Jaitpur, Ahmedabad, Baroda

and Deesa are main centers of printing attires. In Delhi, marketers store printed fibers

and supply in local as well as foreign markets. In Utter Pradesh, Farukhabad is a

printing center and it produces bed sheets, curtains and hangings of export quality.

Embroidery: -

Folk embroidery is always associated with the Indian women. It is a form of women's

self-impression. They create designs or pattern, which are connected with their village,

culture, nature, religion etc. Women do embroidery work not only for their self but they

make different clothes for their husband, children and family members also. Rural

people compose design of different animals, birds and plants. In the Kutchh, 'Rabaris'

[name of cast) create on of the finest embroidery pieces for their camel. The Mutwa'

Women of 'Kutchh' have their peculiar style in this work. The women have made

embroidery fibers and pieces with stylist motifs and mirrors and this work requires lots of

specific skills.

In Gujarat, Saurashtra plays a significant role in the embroidery work. Saurashtra is well

known for its 'Heer' embroidery, the bold geometric pattern that is made on silk. People

of Gujarat and Rajasthan use the embroidery pieces during festivals, marriages and

other important functions and occasions.

Bagh and Phulkari embroidery of Punjab is very famous for lovable and it is a laborious

work. Phulkari embroidery does not cover full part of material but it covers only the

important parts of the garments. In Himachel Pradesh, people of hilly area are skillfully

doing double side embroidery known as 'Chamba Rumal'. Bihar is also famous in

embroidery work. The Kasuti embroidery, stitches based work of Karnataka is very

famous in the world.

59

Bead Works: -

For producing noticeable lines in embroidery, transparent and semi transparent beads

are used. This tradition was started in the 19th century. For making chaklas, door

hangings, belts, pot covers and other variety, craft men use different types of beads,

needles and threads.

Woolen weaves: -

In the world, Kashmir is famous for its 'Shawls' and other woolen clothes. Different and

excellent designs and fabulous work are the strength of its textiles. The workers of

Kashmir have expertise in weaving and making woolen clothes. Kashmiri work is very

renowned in different countries also. Kani shawl is very popular and it available in single

color, whereas in double color, Pashmina gets number one position. Other shawl such

as Santoosh is well known for its softness and Dhussa men's shawl is popular for its

woven border and embroidery work .

• :. Different Regions of India: -

• Gujarat:-

Gujarat is known as 'Manchester of the East'. The

affiliation of Gujarat and textile industry is very old.

Many regions of the Gujarat state have contributed

in the garments and fabrics. The fabric 'Tie and Dye'

is typically known as 'Bandhni' or 'Bandhej' in

Gujarat. This Gujarati product has become very

popular all over the world. The term 'Bandhni' was

consequents from Hindi word 'Bandhan', which

means 'tying'. Regions like Jamnagar, Mandvi, Bhuj

and Anjar are particularly very famous in crafting of

'Bandhni'. The 'Bandhni' of these regions are

different from other regions because of their designs

60

and craftsmanship. Jamnagar Bandhni is made by special type of silky materials. Initial

designs of 'Bandhni' was introduced only for sarees but, later on 'Bandhni' design was

also being used in kurta-pajama, tops, bed sheets and other things. Kutchh produces

the finest Bandhnis in India. 'Khatri' community of Gujarat is prominent for their fine

quality dyeing.

The other specialty of in Gujarat is in sarees known as 'Gharchola sarees'. This saree is

generally used in marriage event. Bride wears 'Gharchola saree' at the time of wedding.

Normally, silk and zari threads are used in this saree. 'Patola' saree is also one of the

popular patterns of in sarees and it is one of the specialty of Gujarat. In the weaving of

Patola some traditional patterns like leaves, flowers, parrots, dancing girls etc. are used.

Originally, bride wears Pato/a saree at the time of marriage. But, nowadays Patola and

Bandhni are available in different range and in different stuff. Therefore, women wear

these sarees in different function and in routine also.

In the Ahmedabad, recently government has opened a new 'Apparel Park'. The fabrics

produced by experts of AL T college are displayed here. Moreover, they give training to

other people also. Approximately 1 lakh women will get jobs in different segments.

Government provides 38 hectares land to four cloth mills, but on the initial base they

allotted 20 hectares. Lately, 27 companies have already purchased land in this park and

many major companies have show keen interest in investing there. All units in the part

will produce apparel and garments. Analysts predict that apparel export of the state will

increase and reach around Rs. 4000 crore. This mission will generate 1 lakh job

opportunity for the women.

• Rajasthan:-

Rajasthan is famous for its 'Kota doria' sarees. It is basically made up to pure cotton but

nowadays they are available in silk and synthetic materials also. The main characteristic

of Kota doria saree is the checks that are made during the weaving process. The saree

is available in three different types called Plain Kota, Printed Kota and Zari Kota. In

Plain Kota doria sarees, the checks are formed by either gold or by common cotton's

but, sometime self or woven designs are also used in this attire. Printed Kota doria

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sarees are generally available in white and offwhite

background and it is famous for its sanganeri patterns.

Traditionally, this sarees have 3 to 4 inch border in the

pallu and remaining part is printed with either single

designs or jails. Zari Kota doria sarees have broad Zari

border in the pallu of maximum 6 inches. Work of pallu

and border is the same and in the remaining part some

Zari buttis are attached. This saree is very famous and

it is called summer special saree in Rajasthan.

In Rajasthan, Jodhpur, Jaipur and Sikar are remarkable centers of textiles industry. In

sikar, one of the finest Bandhanis are made. Sarees called Lahriya and Mothra is

Rajasthan's specialty. In this type, opposite sides of saree are pulled and rolled

together. Then it is tied and dyed in different colors and different patterns and designs

are made over them. Mothra is made by undergoing the same process but sarees ends

are opposite compared with Lahriya. This is made only in Jaipur and Jodhpur. 'Rajputs'

the cast of Rajasthan is famous in making Lahriya, with special technique.

• Maharashtra:-

Maharashtra is a constantly developing

state of India. Maharashtra is popular for its

textiles. 'Marathas' expanded their capacity

in the textile industry after they succeeded

the Mughals. That time they adopted

'Islamic' fashions. But, they had great

respect for the traditional 'Hindu Garment'

and from that time textile stream developed

in Maharashtra.

Different centers of the state are famous for their fabrics. In Maharashtra, there is one

city known as 'Paithan', which is famous for its Paithani and Asavali saris. Paithani is

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one of the costliest high quality silken gold embroidered textiles, which is also known as

'Mahavsatra'. Other places of this states such as Aurangabad is famous for the himroo

[made by mixed silk and cotton] and 8alapur and Sangamner are popular for the

Chandrakala saris. Ahmednagar produces all the type of cotton. Dharwad from

Maharastra is well known for 'Dharwadi saris'.

• North India: -

The northen region of India is one of the most beautiful region of India. North India is

one of the biggest sources of fine textile and garments. This part of India is especially

famous for its 'hand weaving' clothes, which is made up from cotton, wool and silk.

Haryana, Punjab, Himachal Pradesh and Jammu and Kashmir are very famous for its

light and soft fabrics. Several products like safa, dastar, pagri, dhoti, shawl etc. are

mostly produces in this part of India.

Kashmir is famous for its Kashida embroidery work.

Leaf, lotus, almonds, cone etc different motifs are

carved in the Kashida work. Kani shawl is very

popular for its different and extraordinary work. The

specialty of this shawl is that many workers prepare

different pieces of it and after that they joint it all

together. In Aini-Akbari, written at the time of Akbar, it

has been mentioned that during 18th century

merchants used to come to purchase these shawl

from allover the world. It was also mentioned that the

weight of a single shawl was more than of gold. Craft

men face many difficulties at the time of weaving.

There is one technique to check the reality of shawl

and that is to check the backside of shawl and to

notice whether it is in joint pieces or whole one.

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Kashmiri people have expertise in Embroidery work. The double-sided shawl known as

Dorukha is one of the best example of embroidery. The design and idea of weaving is

very fabulous that no one can predict the right and the wrong side.

Kullu, Mandi and Chamba are 'shawls' producing areas of Himachal Pradesh. The

Santoosh shawls are made up of special wool. The wool, which is used in the shawl, is

taken from the underside of the wild Pashima goats. First they collect, they sort and

spun the wool and then experts weave it. The shawl is very light and exceptionally

warm.

• South India:-

South India is known for its beauty. South

Indian silk is famous all over the world. In

south India the town Kanchi is well known

for its silk industry and temples. In

Kanchi, there is a huge production of silk

sarees called as the 'Kanchipuram saree'.

Kanchipuram town is known as 'Silk City'

because :y.,th population of Kanchi town is

dependent on this business. South Indian

bride is incomplete with out Kanchipuram saree. Kanchipuram sarees are becoming

very famous not only in India but also all over the world. Kanchipuram sarees are woven

by using 'mulberry silk'. Kanchipuram sarees are available in many colors. The specialty

of this saree is, that saree is made by golden weaving and it has border and 'Pallu' in

contrast color. A traditionally, Kanchipuram saree has simple golden lines and golden

dots. The designs of Kanchipuram sarees are inspired by the designs of South Indian

temples or natural elements. Now days, Kanchipuram sarees are available in different

designs and works. The latest trend in the sarees is using antique paintings and the

images of gods and goddesses in the 'Pallu'. In original, silk sarees are made

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differently. The 'Pallu' and other part (body) of saree is woven separately and then

jointed together.

Varanasi is well known center for silk production. Originally, Varanasi is famous for its

cotton weaving. Silk weaving started for producing sarees and dhotis. With the time,

demand of silk products increased and weavers made different patterns and it become

the famous silk center.

West Bengal is famous for its Jamdani sarees. Twisted yarn is deeply woven together

and therefore the life of the saree is long lasting. Nowadays this pattern is also made by

weavers of Varanasi and Tanda. This pattern is the specialty of the cotton centers,

which are located in Andhra, Manipur and Tamilnadu.

The Ilikal sarees of Karnataka and Narayanpet sarees of Andhra are made by dark

colors. The specialty of Ilikal is that the weavers use natural dark blue color in the

dyeing process. Andhra is known for its Gadwal and Wanaparti cotton based sarees. In

Gadwal and Wanaparti sarees checks design is being used. The color of checks and

border are contrast and the borders are made up of with silk material whereas Pallu is

made up of gold. Nander is famous for its fine quality cotton sarees that is produce by

using gold thread and silk border.

Tamilnadu has their own style in the sarees. Main centers of the states are

Kanjeevaram, Salem, Pudukottai and Madurai. Coinbatore is famous for its cotton

sarees, which are less expensive and available with Chanderi patterns .

• :. Indian Textiles and Garments Companies: -

Raymond: -

Incorporated in 1925, the Raymond Group is a US$ 300 million plus conglomerate

having businesses in textiles, readymade garments, engineering files & tools, etc. The

group is the leader in textiles, apparel, files and tools in India and enjoys a pronounced

position in the international market. Raymond is leading company in suits and in fabrics.

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Raymond Textile produces pure wool, wool blended and polyester viscose fabrics and

blankets along with furnishing fabrics. Raymond believes in excellence, quality and

leadership. Raymond is a world third largest integrated company in the world.

The denim division produces high quality ring denims. Company decided to expand

their denim manufacturing capacity in 2005. They wanted to manufacture 10,000 pairs

of jeans per day. The company spends Rs. 211 crore, behind the increasing

manufacturing capacity of suits, formal and trouser wear.

Raymond has different brands like Colorplus, Parx, Park Avenue, Manzoni etc. In those

brands Colorplus fits in the premium-casual category. Whereas, brand like 'Parx' fit in

mid-price casual wear segment. Other two other brands like Park Avenue and Manzoni

is segmented in high and premium formal wear segment. Raymond's acquired

Colorplus to jump in casual-wear, adding brands like Raymond's, Parx and Park

Avenue. Opting the similar strategy, Indian Rayon acquired garments division of Madura

Coats, 'Madura Garments' and entered the luring apparels market with the successful

brands like Van Heusen, Allen Solly, Peter England and Louis Philippe.

In India, Raymond is expended their retail capacity day by day. By the end of 2006,

Raymond started about 40 stores in the country. In the total space, company took 60%

space in the malls and tried to achieve steady growth in retail market. Raymond has

281 exclusive show rooms and 132 shops across the different cities of India.

Additionally, company has 20 stores in 15 cities of the Middle East, Sri Lanka,

Bangladesh, Nepal, Europe etc. In 2004, the income of the company was approximately

Rs. 322 US$ million and the net profit was around 30%. In the year 2005, company's

total income was Rs. 350 US$ million and the share in profit was 20%.

Raymond will be entering in the garment segments such as women's wear and kids

wear. Moreover, nowadays company's manufacturing capacity is 25 million meters per

annum but they are planning to increase it in near future. They will enlarge the

production capacity by another 4-5 million meters per annum. The main aim behind the

expansion is to capture the domestic as well as the foreign market.

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Company covers 60% market share in Indian market. Company has huge capacity of

production for example, company manufactures 25 million meters of wool and wool

blended fabrics. Company exports their fabrics and suits in to more than 50 countries all

over the world. Over the years, Raymond has increased their research and

development activity.

Arvind Mills Limited: -

Arvind Mills Limited is the Ahmedabad based flagship company which was established

in 1931. This was the company which established the concept of branded garment in

Indian market for the very first time. Arvind Mills is dividing in two major parts one is

known as Arvind Mills and other known as Arvind Brands. Arvind Mills is in textile

business while Arvind Brands is in apparels business. Arvind Mills is largely focused on

international market and spread globally where as Arvind Brands is the domestic brand

and the area of the company is limited. All the production of apparel is conducted in the

Bangalore city.

The company has nine brands, which is divided in four different clusters. Arrow is in first

cluster; Lee in the second cluster, brands like Wrangler and Ruggers is in third cluster

and Excalibur, Bay Island, Flying Machine and Newport is in forth cluster. In all the

brands Arrow and Lee are the two top brands of the company. Internationally,

company's top brand 'Arrow' is available for men's and women's both but in India the

brand 'Arrow' is available only for men's.

Arrow, the company's premium men's wear brand has celebrated 10 successful years in

India. The total turnover of this brand in year 2005 is Rs. 100 crore. Total turnover of the

company is approximately US$ 550 million. It is the world's largest exporter of denim

and Asia's largest denim producer. Ranking among the top denim manufactures of the

world, 120 million meters of denim roll out every year from Arvind plants and is stitched

into leading international denim brands in more than 70 countries.

Progress of company is revealed in the sales figure such as in the year 2001, total sales

of company was Rs. 280 crore and it increased in 2002 and reached at Rs. 345 crore.

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Moreover, in 2004 company eamed Rs. 367 US$ million and in 2005 total income was

Rs. 451 US$ million.

Recently Arvind brand tied up with Pantaloons to retail their 'Ruf and Tuf jeans brand.

In this venture they sold 100,000 pieces per month and the turnover of RS.300 million

approximately. Company recently launched new brand called 'Tommy Hilfiger'. In this

brand they launched clothes for men's sports wear and jeans wear and junior's jeans

wear collection. Company also introduced men's, women's and children's wear under

this trademark. Company invested about Rs. 1 crore behind the technology to achieve

greater efficiency in networking and supply chain management.

Bombay Dyeing: -

Wadias first production was in the area of ship making over 250 years ago. More than

355 ships design was made by Wadias. In 1879 Bombay was one of the largest cotton

port in the world, at that time Nowrosjee Wadia set first textile unit. With that time

company passed 115 successful years and become one of the most biggest textile

industry of the country. Bombay Dyeing is in the business of selling and manufacturing

different fabrics such as shirtings, suitings, readymade garments, industrial fabrics etc.

Bombay Dyeing and manufacturing company allotted their share in other group

company 'Bombay Burmah', which was announced on July 27 2007. According to Nusli

Wadia, the Chairman of the company, Bombay Dyeing increased their net profit to Rs.

17.88 crore during the quarter ended at June 30, as against 14.76 crore for the July 27

2006. Moreover total income increased by 7% compared to the previous years. In

future, company plans to set up 100 own retail shop and start 90-franchisee shop in

three years.

Recently, company launched their new textile product 'Bedsheets and Towels' in ten

exclusive stores, which is most expensive in price. For the advertisement company has

invested Rs. 3 to 4 crore. The product is also available in 400 company's outlets.

Starting price of the bed sheet and towels is Rs. 1,249 and Rs. 355 accordingly.

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The company has made plans to open 30 to 40 shopping malls in the different cities like

Bangalore, Hyderabad, Delhi, Ahmedabad, Chandigarh and Kolkata. The malls will

spread out in 500,000 square feet, which will display lUXUry brands. For this matter

company is trying to negotiate with some Indian as well as foreign company.

Century Textiles: -

Century Textiles & Industries was incorporated in 1897. Till 1951, company had only

one Cotton Textile Mill in Bombay. After that company has made great expansion and

spread their activity tremendously. Company's textile division is located in Worli

(Bombay) that produces 200,000 square meters cotton daily. The company is Asia's

largest composite company which produces 100 per cent cotton. Company's production

department is spread over in 30 acres and its yearly production capacity is about 50

million square meters. Moreover, company's annual turnover is US$ 95 million.

Company's gross profit in 2004 was US$ 592 million and in 2005 it was US$ 663

million. And the net profit of the company in 2004 was US$ 16.6 million and in 2005 it

was US$ 24 million. Recently company announced that they will start a new plant in

Gujarat and will invest million's of rupees behind that. The mill will have 300 looms 0.1

million spindles and would have mix out US$ 25 million fabrics per annum.

Century has diversified into other businesses as well. At present, Century is not only the

trendsetter in cotton textiles, but also holds its presence in yarn, denim, viscose filament

rayon yarn, caustic soda, sulfuric acid, salt, cement and pulp and paper.

Indian Rayon: -

Indian Rayon (IRIL) is 'Aditya Birla group's' most diversified conglomerate. It is the

second largest producer of viscose filament yarn in India. It is also the largest branded

apparel company in India. It is a diversified company and operates a wide range of

businesses. Its focus areas are viscose filament yam, carbon black, branded apparels,

textiles and insulators.

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Madura garment is a part of Indian Rayon and Industries Limited, a standard company

of the 'Aditya Birla Group'. The company is famous for premier brands like Louis

Philippe, Van Heusen, Allen Solly, Allen Solly Women's Wear, Peter England, Byford,

Elements and SF Jeans. In 1999 annual sales of Madura Garments was Rs. 2.50

billion. Company's revenue income in 2004 was US$ 561 million and net profit was US$

7 million. In 2005 company's revenue income was US$ 746 million and net profit was

US$ 13 million. Moreover, export of company is about US$ 250 million per year. Madura

Garments has wide distribution channel. The company has 100 exclusive showrooms

and over 2,500 retail outlets all over India. In those outlets, Madura Garments has 2000

outlets across the country for its Peter England brand while there are 500 outlets (150

franchises) for its other premium brands like Van Heusen, Louis Phillippe, etc.

Madura garments have 35% share in the market for premium shirt and over 20% share

in the market for premium trouser. The company plans to launch new series of jeans

wear, suits, women's wear and accessories. There are two objectives behind the future

expansion are, to enter in consumer's wardrobe with launching new branded clothes

and other is to expand in retail shops business all over the country.

Nowadays culture of malls is increasing highly. Company started their shop in different

malls such as Phoenix and City center malls in Mumbai, Spencer's mall in Chennai, etc.

The decision of selecting right mall is very essential and crucial. Mostly, company gives

franchises. Company is doing advertisement and other promotional campaign. It has

also made forays into insurance, software and business process outsourcing (BPO).

Gokaldas Images (GJ): -

A Gokaldas Image was one of the first few companies in India to start the concept of

retail franchisees in 1987. In the domestic retail market, Gokaldas for the very first time

launched licensed brands from Warner Bros like Harry Potter, Tom and Jerry, Mickey

and Donald etc. The company produced and sold readymade garments in domestic as

well as international market.

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In Banglore, the company has 48 fully equipped manufacturing factories in which they

produce blazes, pants, shirts, sports wear, denim wear, sports wear etc. company

produces different fashionable brands like Tommy Hilfiger, Gap, Levis, Weil Besancon,

Playtex etc.

Company produces and exports 2.5 million garments per month. The group has 18

manufacturing and export units in and around Bangalore. Approximately 9,000 workers

work in the units and total 52,000 workers are working for the group. According to

Jagadish Hinduja, executive Director, finance, they are very positive about company's

performance for the remaining three years.

Gokaldas is one of the India's largest garment manufacturers and exporters. Apparel

Export Promotion Council (AEPC) rewarded Gokaldas with two prestigious awards

'Highest Exporter' on a global basis and 'Highest Employer' on an India basis.

In garment export the company crossed the figure of Rs. 676 crore. Moreover, in

quarter end (June 30, 2007) of the year, net profit of the company was Rs. 10.52 crore

and sales of Rs. 261 crore.

Siyaram: -

Siyaram is the company, which manufactured synthetic fibers. The company was

integrated on 29th June 1978, that time company was private limited company. But, on

16th April 1980 it was converted in to a public limited company. Mahabir Prasad Poddar,

Ohara Prasad Poddar and Purushottamdas S.Mahasaria are the person's who

introduced company in the market. In November 1978, company started their

manufacturing activities. Siyaram is the company setting continuous changes in fashion

trends. This company is the 'leading designer' and 'manufacturing company' in the

men's garment sector.

Siyaram silk mills launched new manufacturing unit in Daman. In the unit, company

produces 'Siyaram's MSD' [Monday to Sunday Dressing]. Company spend 1000 crore

for this project, which is equipped with latest machinery and research and development

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center. The company also gives assurance that buyers get high quality product in low

price. Dressing would include casuals, semi-formals, formals, club wear in the middle

and premium segments, targeting the youth. At first the Monday to Sunday dressing line

would be introduced in Southem and Westem India, and would be sold through its retail

outlets. By the view of Ramesh Poddar, managing director of the company, in the next

five year this brand will become biggest local readymade brands and for that they have

developed fierce marketing strategy.

According to one estimate company's turnover in 2005-06 was about 415-420 crore,

and market growth increased up to 25%. The company manufactured everything like

office wear, party wear and Sunday wear also. In the end of last year, company signed

Mahendra Singh Dhoni for launch of their new product.

S. Kumars Nationwide Limited (SKNL):-

The S. Kumars Group was founded in 1948 and the pioneers of the company were Mr.

Abhayakumar and Mr. Shambukumar. Initially, they were doing the trading of textiles

but in 1975 they started production also. The group is interested in three areas such as

textile, power and real estate. In 1990s all the textile business of the group were merged

under the'S. Kumars Nationwide Limited'.

S. Kumars Nationwide Limited is known as SKNL. S. Kumars and Reid and Taylor are

the most famous brands of the company. Company produces different products such as

consumer textiles school uniforms, industrial wear [fire resistant fabrics, stain resistant

fabrics etc.], military uniforms, etc. Mainly textile products of company are suiting and

ready to wear garments. In August 1999, company signed Kapil Dev for its new suiting

brand.

SKNL had chose Amitabh Bachchan for embark on its Reid and Taylor (R&T) brand. In

2006, sales of this brand was 160 crore that may touched Rs.170 crore in 2007.

According to Nitin Kasliwal the managing director of the company, they will start another

200 stores in the coming three to four years period, which will be company owned and

franchisee outlets.

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Sushmita Sen represented company's new brand 'Carmichael House' in 2006. The

brand offered textiles, which are used in the house such as bed linen, bath linen, table

linen etc.

In February 2007, company appointed Mr. Shah Rukh Khan as the brand ambassador

for its new brand 'Belmonte'. A meaning of Belmonte is 'Inspiring the youth to succeed

on the world stage'. The brand has been targeted towards the young group. The brand

offers a wide range of style with perfect fitting.

SKNL will be entering in women's wear segment. Now, company is analysis the habit

and dressing style of women and in near future they will introduce new section. By that

the retail capacity of the company will automatically expand. Currently, company

provides its products in 5,800 retail stores. Companies annual sales is approximately

535 crore.

Zodiac Clothing Company: -

This is the company which makes 200+ crore designs for garments. This is the oldest

Indian company, which celebrated 50 years. This is the only Indian company who sold

their brand in US, UK, Middle East and other countries at similar prices. Zodiac designs

premium men's wear with 'Made in India' labels.

Zodiac is doing manufacturing of garments such as shirts, trousers, tie, socks etc.

Zodiac has combined manufacturing capacity with 6 million shirts with neckties and

socks. In India Calcutta and Gujarat are the main manufacturing centers of the

company. In 2004, company launched their new unit in Dubai, in which they produce

Shirts.

Company's production capacity is very high for example company produces 400 jackets

and 1100 trousers in a day. Zodiac has 12 branches all over the country and it gives

employment to 3500 people. Zodiac has 80 exclusive retail stores and 800 combine

retail outlets in India.

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Pantaloon Retail Ondial Limited: -

Pantaloon Retail (India) Limited was started on October 12, 1987. Mr. Kishore Biyani

was the pioneer of the private limited company. In September 20, 1991 the company

became public limited company and on September 25, 1992 the name was changed to

Pantaloon Fashion (India) Limited. In July 7, 1999 the name of the company was

converted to Pantaloon Retail (India) Limited. This huge company has minimum of

14,000 shareholders.

CP Toshniwal, head of corporate planning at pantaloon said that, over the next 18

months company will increase their space capacity to 3 million squares fit from 1 million

and the company's total share will increase about Rs. 70 crore. The company declared

that they will issue 9,53,653 fresh shares at Rs. 734 each to the media group, which is a

sign of making a pure financial investment.

Managing director and chief executive of the Pantaloon Retail (India) Ltd. Mr. Kishore

Biyani want to make "largest readymade garment retail chain in India". The company

expanded their retail chain all over India on huge basis, thus they stopped appointing

new franchisees. Moreover, the company took the decision that they closed the supply

of its readymade garment to other outlets.

Pantaloons has many big showrooms all over the country for example in Chennai,

26,000 square fit space allocated for showroom. Similarly in Bombay, Delhi, Calcutta

etc. company made big showroom's. Company wants to make their own district brand

quality.

In 1995, company had about 72 stores, and many other franchisees. In year 2000

company had around 40 outlets in which 14 were company owned. Additionally, at

present Pantaloon Retail have outlets in different malls [such as Big Bazaar] also .

• :. Innovation in Readymade Garment Sector: -

In the 20th century companies made standardize ready to wear garment that would be fit

maximum number of target customers. However, due to new technology and invention

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of power looms, the costs of garment have been reducing day by day. In today's world,

because of technological advancement and experts, various computerized software are

introduced with the help of machines can take perfect measurement and make

appropriate design that suits customer most. It saves buyer's time, money and effort

also.

Nowadays consumers want comfortable and trouble free garments. Therefore garment

companies are started to manufacture waterproof, wrinkle proof and temperature proof

'special garments'. Fabrics like temperature proof helps wearer in controlling body

temperature. Such as, material of running shoes is innovative product for buyers. In the

material there are some special features like wearer can breathe freely, it is shock proof

and there is vitamin C in the material, it keeps leg healthy in winters also.

Japan is very famous for innovative products. Japan is manufacturing fabrics from

'Banana and Pineapple'. But, the Japanese do not use it because of high production

cost. 'The Health Giving Fabric' concept becomes famous in Europe and North

America. In the fabrics, there are capacities to protect against 'UV Rays and Bacteria'.

In the Europe, there are some units who coating and finishing treatment on the fabrics.

There are some new concepts and methods invented for the body measurement, in the

sector of readymade garment. One of the new concepts is known as E-fit. In this

concept customer should enter the details of body measurement and on that information

computer searched the clothes, which is perfect for the buyer. There are different E-fit

methods that are used by different garment companies. In some branded jeans stores

customer can choose the styles, fabrics, leg opening space etc. further shopkeeper

enters all these information in to the computer, then the computer shows the perfect

jeans in the entire store that would be perfect for customer in all manner such as size,

fit, length etc. Moreover, consumer gets ideal garment with out any irritation. That data

is kept in the computer memory therefore, in future when consumer wants the same

, product, it will become easy for the buyer and seller. I

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The latest innovation in E-fit is, seller can take consumer's body measurement with the

help of 3D body scanner. In this technology 3D scanner takes consumer's body

measurement and trained assistant feeds all information in to the computer. Here also

consumer has the freedom to choose the design, style, fabrics etc. Hence, the

consumer will get the best product for one self. In this method also, scan data and other

information can be stored in the computer for future aspects.

Many technologies such as body scanning, bar codes, laser cutters, web application

etc. are being used by retailers for mass customization of readymade garments. Body

scanner and web camera gives facility to buyers to obtain perfect and desire fitting. The

new innovative E-fit technology provides instant and accurate product to the buyers.

Self-measurement for e-shopping is not an easy job for consumers. Moreover, there

would be possibility of rough measurement. With the help of the body scanner both

(seller and buyer) can simply solve this problem. Body scanner takes about twelve

seconds for the measurement. Then the data can be stored in the computer and the

process is completed. The whole process hardly takes one minute .

• :. Indian Apparel Market: -

Some leading Indian garment companies have been announcing their future plans such

as to expand there manufacturing capacity in fibers, fabrics, processing and garmenting

facilities etc. Famous Indian companies like Reliance, Indo Rama, Vardhman,

Raymond, Zodiac, Madura, Arvind etc. have started to integrated to becoming 'The

Best'. It is being assumed that by 2013, Indian export would reach the US$ 25-30 billion

target.

In Indian readymade garment industry, small units will either close down or will emerge

in other cluster groups. Large companies will be looking out to buy small but innovative

brands. Additionally, lots of intemational brands will be entering in the Indian market

with the help of either franchises or to establish their own manufacturing units.

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Indian apparel industry is set to boom with an increase in buyer's demand, choice and

value. Consumer wants to try something new. They are becoming more aware about

fashion and brands. Today, in the market men's label wear is selling more than

premium segment. It is estimated that out of 100%, 60% share will be captured by

casual wear/segment and the remaining 40% share for formal wear/segment. In recent

year Indian apparel industry is divided in three clear parts one is designer fashion

brands (Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein etc.), second is premium brands (Wills Sport, Gap,

Zara etc.) and third is exclusive designer labels (Rohit Bal, Hugo Boss etc.)

In our country, the trends is going to be change, more and more domestic and foreigner

designers and fashion brands are entering in the business. Indian designers are

launching their own brands. It would also be possible that premium brands and

designers will come together and will be able to manufacture more innovative garments.

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References:

1. Global readymade garment industry, Gokaldas exports Ltd. IndiaMART

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