chapter 3d el gringo cazador cantar - branton berryhill · el gringo cazador cantar. 6 ... his...
TRANSCRIPT
Chapter 3d
Wooing Uaxactun’s Jungle Pavo:El Gringo Cazador Cantar
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EvenbeforeIhadreturnedfrommyfirstGuatemalanocellatedturkeyhuntingadventurewithLovettWilliamsin2004,substantialprogresshadbeenmadeinunderstandingthecallsnecessarytocallintoharvesttheocellatedpavo (turkey)asopposedtothehighlysuccessful,pragmaticandtraditionalMayanpracticeofroostshooting.Infact,eachofthefourhuntersinLovett’ssecond2004,Carmelita-basedocellatedcampthatfollowedmyownhunthadtakentheirturkeysonthefirstmorning.EachhadcalledinhisbirdusingeithertheDougCamp-made“CampCaller”owlcallertoproduceahut-hut-hutsoundorthebirdwascalledinwiththeCassCreekInternational,ahand-held,electroniccallerenabledwithfiverecordedocellatedturkeycalls.Still,duringocellatedturkeyhuntsthatIwasapartytoinMexicoin2005and2006;themajorityofthebirdskilledwereshotofftheroost.However,knowingthatthebirdscouldbecalledin,Iwantedtoexperienceitformyself.So,in2007,Isetupahuntforthespringof2008withLovettformyselfandlong-timefriendDr.JesseBrown-anemergencyveterinarianfromKannapolis,NC-to,hopefully,experiencecallinginanocellatedturkey.Baseduponmypriorhuntsforthisbeautifulbird,IwantedtohuntduringtheweekofApril15-22andsinceIhadalreadyhuntedLovett’sCarmelita-basedcamp,IwantedtohunthisUaxactun-basedoperation.Hehadtwoopenings;weplacedourdepositsinJune. WearrivedinFlores,GuatemalaadayearlierthanactuallynecessaryforourhunttocommencesothatwecouldspendadayhikingandvisitingTikalNationalPark(figure 1)andtakinginthesplendorofitsancientMayanpyramids(figures 2a, 2b)andtheotherruins (figure 3)foundthroughoutthepark.Liveattractionsattheparkincludedcedar,mahoganyandtheespeciallybeautifulCeibatree(figure 4),thenationaltreeofGuatemala.Inaddition,numerousanimalspecieswereseenwhichincludedcoatimundis (figure 5),toucans,agoutis,orapendulabirdsand,ofcourse,ocellatedturkeys(figure 6). Laterthatsameevening,wemetLovettandAmerican-borninterpreterErickBaurandotherhuntersincludingnotonlyfellowhuntersgoingtoUaxactunbutalsothosewhosehuntingdestinationwasLovett’sCarmelita-basedcamp.TheproposedplanwastomeetinthelobbyoftheCaminoRealTikalHoteljustoutsidethevillageofElRemateat11:00thefollowingmorningtogetourocellatedadventureunderway (figure 7).Thetripincluded36kilometerstoTikaltogetherwithanother28kilometerstothevillageofUaxactun(figure 8)whereweateahotlunchofrice,tortillas,chickenandapotato.Afterward,wepurchasedcornhuskdollsmadebythevillagechildren(figure 9)andthenbeganthefinal17kilometersthroughthejungletothehuntingcampitself. Thisfinallegofthejourneyrequiredtwohourstocompleteduringwhichtimewemadeseveraldetourswhichnecessitatedtheaccompanyingscoutsandguidesclearingjunglebrushandundergrowthtoeffectivelybypassthemainroadinordertoavoiddeeplyruttedsections.ItseemedthemainroadservedasamajorthoroughfarebetweentheMexicanbordertothenorthsome25milesfromUaxactunandFlorestothesouthofUaxactunabout45miles.Otherwise,thejungleroadservedasaloggingroad.Oneachsideoftheroad,thejungleseemedavirtuallyimpenetrablewallsavefortheoccasional
Chapter 3dWooing Uaxactun’s Jungle Pavo:
El Gringo Cazador Cantar
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Figure 1: EntrancetoTikalNationalPark.
Figure 2a and 2b: Mayanpyramids,TempleII(upper)TempleVI(lower)
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Figure 3: NecropolisbetweenandsouthofTemplepyramidsIandII.
Figure 4: CeibatreeinTikalNationalPark.
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Figure 5: CoatimundisinTikalNationalPark.
Figure 6: Ocellatedturkey(jake)inTikalNationalPark.
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Figure 7: LoadingthevehiclesheadedtoUaxactun-basedocellatedcamp
Figure 8: DinerinUaxactun.
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Figure 9: Uaxactunchildrenwithcornhuskdolls.
Figure 10: Cordozapalmsalongjungleroadtoocellatedcamp.
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superficialwindowwhichatbestpermittedvisualizationtoamaximumof25yards.Themostintriguingandinterestingpartofthedrivetocampwasa200yarddetourwhichcoursedthroughatypeofpalmforestknownascordozapalms (figure 10).Thetreeshadfrondsorbrancheswhichemanatedfromthetrunkatthegroundandeventheentiretyoftheplantstrunk,someofthem15-20feetinheight.Thispalmforestwhileindeedbeautifulseemedancient,evenprehistoric,akintoapalmforeststraightoutofJurassicPark. Wearrivedatcampat4:15p.m.onThursday,April17whereuponJessemadethealmostimmediateobservationthatthejunglewasindeedthickwithfoliageandvegetation.Somuchsothatthegray,fourwheeldrive,doublecabpickupthatwehadriddenintocampwasallbuttotallyobscuredand,hadwenotalreadyseenthevehicle,wecouldnothaveevenidentifieditasbeingavehiclefromthevantagepointofthefrontofourhut-adistanceofabout20yards.Indeed,fromanysinglevantagepointinthenewlyerectedocellatedcamponlytwothatched-roofedhutscouldbevisualized.ThisUaxactun-basedocellatedcampwhilenotnewinthestrictestsince-inoperationsince1999-hadnewstructuresowingtotheoriginalUaxactun-basedhuntingcampfacilitiesbeingburnedsometimesincetheendofthe2007season.Thus,Lovett’s2008campwaslocatedsomewhatclosertothemainthoroughfareandithadallnewfacilitieswhichincluded:adininghut(figure 11);threehunterhuts(twohunters/hut[figure 12])withcotsandcotton-stuffedmattresseswhich,bytheway,toenjoysleepingonyouhavetobeeitherafanaticturkeyhunter-Isthatredundant?-orareligiouszealot;cookinghut(figure 13);guidesandscoutshut(figure 14);miscellaneoushuts(forLovettandtheinterpreter);inadditiontotheshowerarea (figure 15)andlatrine(figure 16). Afterbeingassignedourhutsandunpackingthevehicles,wemadefortheshootingrange-ameasured24yards.Allhuntersshotatleastasingleroundandeachhunterfoundthesingleshot,Russian-madeshotgunstotallyacceptable.Mosthunterschosenumber6shotwhileacoupleoptedfornumber4shot.WethenretiredtothemealhutforsupperandlateratutorialfromLovettonhuntingtheocellatedturkeyusingtheCassCreekInternationalcalleranditsassociatedfiveocellatedturkeycalls(figure 17).Byteno’clockallhuntershadmadetheirwaytotheirrespectivehutsandafterawarningthatlightsweresoontobeoff,thedistantgeneratorgroanedtoahalt.Besidesamoonthreenightsshyoffullandtheintensestarlight,theonlyotherlighttobeseenemanatedfromthrongsoffirefliesthatbuzzedthroughoutthesurroundingjungleemittinglightfromtwo“eyes“onthetopoftheirmid-sections (figure 18).Thejunglewasrelativelycoolthisnightforthetimeofyear,perhapsinthelower70’s.UsuallyduringtheAprilturkeyseasoninnorthernGuatemala,youtypicallysleepinyourskivvieswithasinglesheetforlaterinthenight.However,onthisnight,adoublelayerofsheetwasneeded.Sleepcamequickly. Wewereawakenedthefirstmorning(Friday,April18)at3:00bythecamp’sinterpreter,Oscar.Afterquicklydressingandgrabbingacoupleofslicesofwatermelonforbreakfast,wemetinthevehicleparkingareawherewewereassignedguidestogetherwiththeirrespectivescouts.IwasassignedtotheMayanguideEmilioandhisscoutMarcos.Bothwereolderthanmostoftheotherguidesandscoutsincampandinfact,laterintheweek,IlearnedinconversationswithMarcosthathewas47yearsold.HiscountenanceandpoiseremindedmeofMayanwarriorsdepictedintheMelGibsonmovie,“Apocalypto.“ WeboardedthetruckwithJamesBroganandhisguideandscoutandproceededtodrivesouthoutofcamp.Fiveminutesintoourdrive-Iwasjustgettingmygearwhichincludedaseatcushion,myThermacel®andmyshotgunsituatedinthetruck-westopped.EmilioandMarcoswhohadbeenridinginthebackjumpedout;afterrealizingitwasmyguideandscoutwhowerewaiting,Itoosteppedoutofthevehicle.Thefourwheeldrive’slightsfadedintothejungledarkness.Itwas4:00a.m.Frommyvantagepointatthesideoftheroadandevenwithoutaflashlight,theupsidedownpalmettoleavesthatMarcoshadplacedinhishastilyclearedtrailtothebirdhehadroostedtheeveningbeforecould
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Figure 11: DininghutatUaxactun-basedocellatedturkeycamp.
Figure 12: Representativeexampleofthehunterhuts.
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Figure 13: CampCook’shut.
Figure 14: Mayanocellatedturkeyscoutsoutsidetheirhut.
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Figure 15: Campshowerarea
Figure 16: Camplatrine.
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Figure 17: CassCreekInternationalTurkeyCaller.
Figure 18: Guatemalanfirefly.
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easilybeseenbythereflectionofthemoon’slight.Emilio,MarcosandIfollowedthetrailforperhaps200yardsbeforeEmiliodousedhislight.WeleftMarcosandtogetherEmilioandIcoveredthenext100yardsbymoonlightalonebeforesittingdownatthenorthsideofaCeibatreewithitssmoothbarkagainstourbacksanditslargebuttressingrootsprotrudingfromitsbase.Itwas4:30a.m.whenwesatdown.Almostimmediatelyweheardroaring-almostlikethedistantroaringofalionorperhapsthebellowingofalargemalealligatorduringthebreedingseason.Eitherway,thesoundseemedalmostprimordial,butfrompriorexperienceIknewthatitwasatroopofhowlermonkeys.Theyhowleduntilalmostdaylight.Anothersoundheardsome20minutesintoourjunglevigilwasalittlemoredisconcerting.Iheardleavesrustlingbehindmeandtomyleft.Therustlinggrewcloserandwithinacoupleofminutes,thesourceoftherustlingpassedwithin18inchesofmeandcontinuedon.Inthedarkness,Iimaginedittobesomejungleratwhichdidn’tparticularlybothermeuntilIfurtherimaginedthepossibilityofafer-de-lanceslitheringalongfollowingthescenttrail.However,Ineverheardanythingelseuntil5:20a.m.whenthegobblerbegantosinginatreetoournorthandperhaps20yardsout.Hugepalmleavesobscuredhisexactlocationinhisroosttreefromus;however,hadIsodesired,wecouldeasilyhavestoodandmovedtoonesideortheotherwhichnodoubtwouldhavepermittedoursightingthebird.But,Iwasheretocallonein,nottoroostshoothim.Ihadroostshotmyfirstocellatedturkeyin2004butthishuntwasstrictlyforthepurposeofhuntingonethatwascaminado that istosay,awalkingbird. Thesongoftheocellatedturkeyisinnowayreminiscentofthegobbleoftheocellated’smorenortherlycousins.Rather,hissongconsistsofsixtoninebongo-likebasstoneswhichquickeninbothvolumeandcadenceonlytoclimaxinacrescendothatultimatelyculminatesinasoundakintoayodel.Theentiretyofeachfullsonglastsforperhapsthreeseconds.Thisparticularbirdsang164timesbeforeflyingdowntothenorthwestofourpositionat6:35a.m.Welistenedintentlytodeterminewhetherthebirdwasmovingorstationaryafterflyingdown.Withinacoupleofminutesofflyingdown,hisbassbongotonestoldushewasmovingtothenorth.EmilioandImovedourlocationapproximatelytenyardstowardthegobblertothebaseofyetanotherlargeCeibatreewithevenmoreimposingbuttressingroots.Whilemovingtothetree,wewerespottedbyatroopofhowlermonkeys,possiblythesameoneswehadheardearlierduringthedarknessbutwhichwerethenatleast200yardstothesouth.Uponspottingus,theybegantoshaketreesandevenbreaklimbswhichtheythenthrewatus.Theykeptthisactivityupforatleast45minutesafterwehadmadeoursecondsetup.Ourset-upbetweentworootsofthissecondCeibatreeaffordedaviewtothewestdownarelativelyopennaturallaneapproximately18incheswideforperhaps30yardswhiledirectlytothenorthIhadasimilarlynarrowopeningthatpermittedaviewofabout25yards.Intheintervening90degreesbetweenthetwolanes,thejunglewasthickandbecausethesunwastoourright,wecouldoccasionallyseefor15or16yardsasarayofsunwouldpenetratethefoliageinfrontofusinfirstoneplaceandthenanother.Thebirdsangtothenorth-northwestofoursetupandweattemptedtocallhiminusingthehonk/whistlecall.Overa30minuteperiodhecircledtothewestandjustforthebriefestofmoments,IcaughtaglimpseofhimwalkingbutmygunwasnotpointedinthatdirectionandbythetimeIhadmovedit,Icouldnolongerseehim.Betweentheshaftsofsunlightpenetratingthejunglefoliageandthealternatingshadows,Ineversawhimagainthoughhestoppedinfrontofusforafullfiveminutes,notmorethan12yardsfromusandallthewhilesinging.Eventually,hemovedtoourright(east)andallthewhilestillcontinuinghissinging.Hehadsungperhaps40timesonthegroundbeforewalkingofftotheeastwithfinallyeventhedeepbongoportionofhissongeventuallyfadingfromourears.DespitethefactthatIaskedthatthescoutslistenforthisbirdeverymorningandeveningfortheremainderofthehunt,theyreportedlyneverheardhimagain. EmilioandImadeourwaybacktotheroadwherewemetMarcosandacoupleofotherscoutswhohadheardabirdwalkingandsingingonthesamesideoftheroadaswehadbeenhunting;
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Figure 19: MeatpoleafterfirstmorninghuntatUaxactun-basedocellatedturkeycamp
Figure 20: JesseBrown’s1½inchspurredocellatedgobbler-hisfirst.
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however,thebirdwasacoupleofhundredyardsclosertocampthanwherewehademergedfromthejungle.EmilioandIeasedintothejungleforperhapsahundredyardsandheardnothingdespitepressingthesongbuttonthreeorfourtimesonthecaller.Wethenmadeourwaybacktotheroadandweredrivenbacktocamp. Arrivingbackincampabout7:30a.m.therewerethreebirdsonthecamppole (figure 19).Jessehadcalledhis1½inchspurredocellatedgobblerinusingtheloudwhistleandhadcollectedhimat7:15a.m.(figure 20).HehadevenmissedasecondbirdwhichheandhisguideMainorandscoutYomonihadheardwhilstwalkingthroughthejunglemakingtheirwaybacktotheroad.Hissecondshothadconnectedsquarelywithatreeat14yards.JamesBroganhadtakenhisfirstocellatedgobblerinthetraditionalMayanmannerofroostshooting.Ittoowasafinespurredgobblerwithspursinexcessof1½inches (figure 21).E.B.PannkukJr.hadlikewisetakenaninchandthreequarterspurredtom(figure 22) buthadkilleditlate,at10:00a.m.,whilehisyoungersonEriktookhisbirdat5:55a.m.followingacombinationuseoftheloudwhistleandthesongcalls(figure 23).Finally,E.B.PannkukIIIhadtakenhisfirstturkeyever-ofanyspeciesorsub-species-afull2inchspurredocellatedgobblerwhichhadwalkedintohisset-upthoughhehadnotcalled(figure 24).Afterlisteningtothevariousrecountsofthemorninghunts,weallsatdowntoaheartybrunchofblackbeans,tortillasandfruitwhilethecampskinnerscleanedtheturkeys.Afterwards,mostofustookasiestabeforetheafternoonhunt. TheafternoonhuntofthefirstdayincludedthethreePannkuksremainingincampcontinuingtheirsiestaswithJesseandJamesheadingouttothenorthofcampwhileEmilioandIweredrivensouth.EmilioandIexitedthevehicleandmadetowardapathwhichenteredthejungledirectlyontheoppositesideofthejungleroadfromourmorninghunt.Quietlyenteringthejungleasmallclearingofperhapsaquarteracrebecameapparentsome60yardsofftheroad.Allundergrowthhadbeencutandremovedandsufficientlargetreesremainedstandingtoprovideanaturalshadetothesetting.Wesetupandcalledusingprimarilythehonk/whistlecall.Almostimmediatelyatroopofhowlermonkeysfixatedonusandbeganathree-quarterhourharassmentconsistingofpredominantlyhowlsbutinterjectedwiththeoccasionaltossedlimbsthrownourway.Weneithersawnorheardanyturkeysbutthejungleopeningprovidedfortheobservationofmanyothernativebirdsthatafternoonincludingahawkandseveralpairsofparrots. Hearingnothingfly-uptoroost,EmilioandIheadedbacktocamponfoot,aneffortthatrequiredonly45minutesbutwasrewardedwiththesightingofaspidermonkeycrossingtheroadinthetreetopsaboveus.Arrivingbackatcampatabout7:00p.m.wenotedoneofthevehicleshadnotyetreturned:JesseandJameswerestillout.At8:30p.m.theystillhadnotreturnedandthesecondvehicletogetherwithafullcomplementofguidesandscoutswassenttolookforthem.SupperwhichincludedanabundanceofturkeywasthenservedtothosepresentandwethenshuffledofftoourhutswithstillnosignofJesseorJames. Awakenedthesecondmorning(Saturday,April19)ofourhuntatthreeo‘clock,InotedJesseinhisbunk.HerelatedhishavingreturnedtocampjustfourhoursearlierafterthevehicleheandJamestraveledingotstuckfourtimesoveradistanceof19kilometers(about11miles).HealsorelatedhavingshothissecondbirdinthetraditionalMayanmanneratabout7:30p.m.andat35yards.HisbirdhadtwoofthemostbeautifulspursIhaveeverseenonanocellatedturkey;theywerehooked,jet-blackandeach115/16inchesinlength(figure 25).IthengrabbedacoupleofpiecesofmelonandmetEmilioandMarcosatthetruck.Togetherweloadedupat3:30a.m.forashort20minutedrive.ThisparticularhuntwastotranspirenorthwestofthecampataplacelocallyreferredtoasSantaIzabel.Again,afterbeingletoutofthevehicle,wefollowedupsidedownpalmettoleavestothelisteningpostsome150yardsintothejungle.MarcosindicatedourlisteningpostandthethreeofussatdownandquietlydousedourselvesinDeet.Iinquiredastothelocationoftheroostedbirdwith“DondeesPavo(Whereispavo)”?BythemoonlightIcouldseethatMarcospointedtothenortheastandreplied,“one
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Figure 21: JamesBrogan’sfirstGua-temalanocellatedturkeyharvestedpertraditionalMayanmanner.
Figure 24: E.B.PunnkukIII’sfirstwildturkeyharvest-2inchspurredGuatemalanocellatedturkey.
Figure 22:E.BPannkukJr.’s1¾inchspurredGuatemalanocellatedturkey
Figure 23:ErikPannkukwithhisfirstocellatedturkeygobbler.
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Figure 25: JesseBrown’s115/16inchspurredGuatemalanocellatedturkey.
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hundredmeters”.Itwas4:20a.m.andwebeganourwait.By5:20a.m.nobirdhadsung.EmilioandMarcosengagedinaquietbutanimateddiscussion,thebottomlineoftheirconversationbeingthattheycouldnotimaginewhythebirdwasnotsinging.HehadsungmanytimestheeveningbeforeandwhileMarcoshadnotheardhimflyuptoroost,hewasemphaticthatthebirdhadbeensingingjustbeforeflyup. At5:45a.m.abirdtotheeastissuedhissongfromperhaps150yards.Ilookedatthemandstated,“vamos”.MarcosstayedwithEmilio’smacheteandthedrinkingwaterandquietlyEmilioandImadeourapproach.Cominguponsomewhatofaclearingabouthalfwaytothebird,wetookourstandnexttoa4inchdiametertreefromwherewecouldseedownalanedirectlytotheeastabout35yardsandmoregenerallyforabout180degreestowardthebird,wecouldseeasolid20yards.Thebirdsangnomorefromhisroostbutafterhisinitialsongfromtheground,Iusedthecallertomakethesongcall.Acoupleofminuteslater,hesangtwomoretimesinquicksuccessionandobviouslycloser;Ipressedthesongbuttononcemoreinresponse.MovementcaughtmyeyetothesoutheastandatthesametimeIfeltEmilio’shandonmyrightshoulderaccompaniedby“pavo”.Thegobblerwasfollowingahembra(hen)andmygunfollowedthegobbleruntilthehensteppedbehindatree.Thegobblerforasplitsecondwasinanarrowopeningat17yards.Attheshot,thehenflewstraightupthroughthejunglecanopyandthegobblerneverflopped-notasinglefeatherwasdislodgedthoughanabundanceofsmallgroundvegetationwasalso“harvested“bythethreeinchnumber4shot.Emilio’swatchread6:00a.m.andIhadjustcollectedmyfirst“calledin”ocellatedturkey.Ironically,itwasexactlyfouryearstothedaysinceIhadtakenmyfirstocellatedgobbler.MarcosbeganwhistlingandEmiliolethimknowthatabirdhadindeedbeentaken.Uponreachingus,welookedabouttherelativelyopenareaofmyharvestandnotedabarecircularareaapproximately4to5feetindiameterwhichhaddragmarks.Lovettlaterconfirmedthatwhatwehadfoundwasindeedastruttingarea.Wesnappedafewphotosofmybird
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andmadeourwaybacktoourmorninglisteningpostwheremachetesandbackpackswithwaterbottleshadbeenleft.Within25to30feetofourearlymorninglisteningpostwewalkedrightuponadeadocellatedturkeygobbler,a“muygrandepavo(averylargeturkey)”inthewordsofMarcos.TherewasmuchspiritedconversationbetweenEmilioandMarcosoverthenextfewminutesandbyinterpretingawordhereandthereintheirconversation,IwasabletodiscernthatMarcosbelievedthatthiswasthebirdhehadheardtheeveningbefore.Earlierthismorninghecouldnotunderstandwhythebirdhadnotsung.But,thetwosurmisedthatthegobblerhadbeenkilledbyagavilon(eagle)latetheeveningbefore.Iwantedtobringthebirdbacktocampbutbothsaidno.IassumedthatLovetthadtoldthemnottobringanythingdeadintothecampunlessthehunterhadmadethekill.Inanyeventthebirdhadverylongspursthatappearedtobeafulltwoinchesinlength.WeleftthebirdandwalkedbacktocampwithmygobblerdanglingfromapolebetweenMarcosandmyself.Alongthewaywesawadoevenado(Brocketdeer)whichletusapproachtowithin45yards. Uponreturningtocampmybirdwasdeterminedtoweigh11pounds1ounceandhad111/16inchspurs(figure 26).IrelatedthefindingofthedeadgobblerwhereuponLovettsentMarcosbackwithacoupleofotherscoutstoretrieveit.Itwaslaterdeterminedtohavecarried115/16inchspursandthegeneralconsensuswasthatthegobblerhaddied,nodoubttheeveningbefore,astheresultofhavingbeenspurredthroughthebrainbyanotherbird. Fortheremainderofthis,thesecondday’shunt,allhuntersstayedincampcatchinguponmissedsleep.Thescoutsventuredoutlaterintheeveningtofindsingingbirdsinanticipationofthefollowingmorning’shunt. Jesseawakenedmeat1:39thethirdmorning(Sunday,April20)with“Scott,manwakeupthere’sasnakeinthehut”.ThinkingthatIwasdreaming,InonethelessturnedtoseeJesseshininghisflashlighttowardthematonthefloorbetweenourtwobunks.Inthespotlightwasacoiledgraysnakewithdarkbrowntriangularblotchesalongitssides.ThesnakewasnotmorethanacoupleofinchesfromJesse’sshoes.Herelatedthathewasjustabouttoswinghisfeetoutfromunderhismosquitonettingwhensomethingtoldhimtocheckoutthematwherehisshoeswere.Seeingthesnake;heawakenedmetoverifyhisfirstimpressionofitsidentification.ItwasindeedaFer-de-Lance.Ishinedmylightabouttheremainderofthematandunderbothofourbunksbeforepickingupmyshoetohitthesnake.Ihitatit,itstruckandthenmadeitswayunderJesse’sbunkandintotheleaveslitteringthejunglefloor.Donninghissnakeboots,Jessemadehispitstopandthenclimbedbackintohisbunk.Wediscussedthesnakeforthenext20orsominutesbeforeJessefellbacktosleep-atleasthesnoredlikehewasasleep.IlaidawakeuntilthreewhenPabloawakenedmewithaflashlightinmyeyes.Asheturnedtoleave,Iaskedifthegeneratorwasontowhichherepliedintheaffirmative.Ithenaskedhimtopullthelightcordandturnonourhutlight.HedidsoonhiswayoutandIimmediatelyscannedthematt.There,justasanhourandahalfearlier,layyetanother-orperhapsthesame-Fer-de-LancebesideJesse’sshoes.ExcitedlyIinstructedPablotogetastickandcomebackandkillthesnaketowhichJessesaid,“areyoukidding,there‘sanothersnake?”Pabloreturned,lookedatthesnakeanduttered,“culebra(snake)”.Then,withafourfootstick,hedeftlydeliveredasingle,swiftblowdirectlytotheheadofthetightlycoiledsnakewhichimmediatelydispatchedit.Itwas18incheslongandbeautifullymarked;ithadtohaveveryrecentlysheditsskin.WemadepicturesofitandtheninstructedPablotokeephimuntilwereturnedfromourmorninghunt(figure 27).Jessehaddecidedtogowithmeandtrytogetanocellatedharvestonvideo. Wequicklydonnedourcamo,grabbedsomemelonandwaterandpreparedtoheadtothetruck.JustbeforeleavingcampIranbacktoourhuttobrushmyteeth.Mytoothbrushandpasteweresituatedonthelittlelashed-togethertableatthebackofourhut.Iretrievedmybrushandpasteandabottleofwaterandquicklybeganmychore.Fromthelightattheoppositeendofthehut,Icouldseesomethingonthegroundabouttwofeetfrommyleftfoot.Iretrievedmyflashlightfrommyoverallbib.There
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Figure 26: ScottBranton’sfirst“calledin”Guatemalanocellatedturkey,111/16inchspurs.
Figure 27: Fer-de-Lance(Terciopelo,barbaamarilla)foundinhunter’shutonfloormat.
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wasnomistakingthatpattern,itwasyetanotherFer-de-Lanceandaboutthesamesizeastheothertwowehadseen.BeforeIcouldeventhinktocallforPabloandhisstick,thesnakehadslitheredofftowardarottedfallenlogwhereitquicklydisappeared.Iabruptlyendedmytoothbrushingandheadedforthewaitingtruck. Marcos,Emilio,JesseandmyselftogetherwiththeguideAlphonsowhohadfoundthebirdtheeveningbeforeweredrivenuptheroadtothenorthfromcampforabout15minutes.ThefiveofusexitedthevehicleandfollowedAlphonsothroughthejungleforapproximately½mile.WegotoffthetrailacoupleoftimesbuttheguidesquicklyfoundthebentorbrokenvegetationthatAlphonsohadusedtocreatehisexittrailthenightbefore.Wesatquietlybesidesomepalmtreesfacingtheeastforalmostanhourbeforehearingthefirstofsixsongswewouldhearfromtheroostedgobblerbeforewewereabletogetintopositiononhim.Hewasroostedtothesouthofourpositionabout80or90yards.LeavingAlphonsoandMarcosatourlisteningpost,Jesse,EmilioandIheadedtowardthebird.Weactuallygottowithin15yardsofhimandcouldseehimsilhouettedagainstthemorningsky.Duringourtrekwemadequiteabitofnoise,somuchsothatthebirdquitsingingforalmost15minutes.Duringthistimewemadeourwaytoavantagepointthatletusseethetreethebirdwasroostedinandwithmoredaylight,whilewecouldn’tseethebirditself,wecouldseethetreemoveashesang.Heeventuallysanganother33timesbeforeflyingdowntothenorthwestofourset-up.Wetriedseveralcallsincludingtheloudwhistle,thesongandthehonk/whistlebutalltonoavail.Hehadflowndowntoanapproachinghenwhichhadcometohimfromthesamedirectionaswehadbeenearlierwhensittingbesidethepalms.Thebirdseventuallymadetheirwaytothenorthwestwhileweattemptedtocircletothesouthwest.EventuallytheywentoutofourhearingbutAlphonsoandMarcosstayedwiththemandthenthroughwhistlingthemselveswereabletogetEmilio’sattention.EmilioleftJesseandIandwenttoAlphonsoandMarcosandlearnedwherethebirdshadgone.Hethenreturnedtousandtogetherthethreeofustookoffinhotpursuit.Within10minuteswecouldhearthedeepbassbongosoundswhichwefollowedfurthertothewest.Afterleadingusforperhaps100yards,thebirdstoppedandcontinuinghissinging,weattemptedtosneakuponhim.Weflushedthehenandthegobblersangonlyoncemorebeforeceasinghissingingentirely.WethengotupwithMarcosandAlphonsoviawhistlingandbeganourexitfromthemorning’shunt.Beforegoingbackouttothejungleroad,MarcosandEmiliotookustotheoppositesideoftheareawherewehadlastheardthegobblerandthoughwetriedseveraltimestoelicitasong,wewereunsuccessful.WethenheadedtotheroadforashortwaitduringwhichtimewewatchedapairofcirclingGuatemalanGrey-headedKites,verydistinctivebirdswithdeeplybifurcatedtails.Within30minutesofourmakingittothejungleroad,thetruckreturnedtotakeusbacktocamp. Onthisthirdmorning,weenteredcamptofindanothertwobirdsontheskinningtable.Afterlisteningtotheaccompanyingstories:Erikcalledinhissecondocellatedgobblerat6:55a.m.usingacombinationoftheloudwhistleandthesongwhilehisfatherE.B.Jr.tookhissecondbirdat7:50a.m.usingonlytheloudwhistle.Later,aftermysecondhuntofthemorning,IfoundoutthatE.B.IIIcalledinhissecondbirdusingtheloudwhistlewhileJamestookhissecondgobblerat11:00a.m.usingtheshortwhistleandanaccompanyingstalk.ThefourhuntersfromNorthCarolinatogetherwithWestVirginianJamesBroganhadeachlimitedoutandthoughtsurelyItoowouldgetabirdthissamemorningandthenwecouldleaveandtheycouldtakeinthesightsofTikalNationalParkadayearlier.But,suchwasnotthecase.Rather,almostimmediatelyaftergettingbacktocampandhearingthestories,Emilio,MarcosandIthenleftwithacrewoffourscoutsforanothermorning’shunt.Weleftcampat8:30a.m.andreturnedat2:30p.m.whichincludedaone-wayrideofalmost2hoursduration.OurdestinationhadbeenCampMilpahwhichconsistedofacoupleofsmallthatchedroofdwellingswhichwerequiteoldandconstructedinasmallclearingadjacenttoafiveorsixacrelakeovergrownwithwaterlilies.UponarrivingatCampMilpahfiveorsixotherscoutsgreeteduswithsmallbrancheshavingbrightredfruitattachedthattheycalledmonash.Thebrancheswereloadedwiththefruitwhich
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wasaboutthesizeofthelastjointofyourlittlefinger.Morethanhalfofeachwasseedbutthefruititselfwasabsolutelydelicious.Aftereatingthemonash,thescoutsshowedEmilio,Marcosandmyselfthegeneralareawherethepavohadroostedthenightbefore.HisroosttreewassituatedalongtheedgeofMilpah’sopenareaandadjacenttothelake.WelookedaboutandfoundmuchscratchingactivityintheleavesbothwithinMilpah’sopenareaitselfaswellastothewest.Weclimbedalittleknollabout30yardsfromtheclosesthutandplayedthesongontheCassCreekcaller.Wegotnoresponse.Emilio,Marcosandmyselfthenskirtedtheeastedgeofthelakealongawellusedtrail.Theareawassomewhathillywithelevationchangesofperhaps20to30feet.OnehundredyardsoutofMilpah’sopenareawefoundsomefreshscratchingandheardawhistlewhichbothMarcosandEmilioimmediatelyrecognizedasaturkey.EmilioandIquicklypositionedourselvesintheonlyareawecouldseeupthesideoftheoppositehill-ashallowdepressionthroughwhichrainrunoffmadeitswaytothelake.WecalledacoupleoftimesusingtheloudwhistleandfinallyEmilio’sfavoritecall,thehonk/whistleand,eventuallywedidhearthebirdswalkingonthehillaboveus.But,theycontinuedtothenortheast.EmiliolatertoldMarcosthatithadbeentwohens. Wethenfollowedthetrailstillbasicallycoursingtheeastsideofthelakeandontothenorthforabouttwohundredyardswherewecametothehighestpointofourtrek.Uponreachingthesummit,weheardagobblertothewest.Hesangeightorninetimesasweeasedintowardhim.Notingthatthetreesintheareawerelargeandthatthevegetationonthejunglefloorhadthinnedsomewhat,wetriedtomakeourwaytoafallentreewhichwasapproximatelyfourfeetindiameteratitsbuttend.Thegobblercouldnothavebeenmorethanfiftyyardsfromus.Wepeeredoverthelogandthebirdsangacouplemoretimesbutthenshutupandwecouldheartwoorthreebirdswalkingtothesouthwest.Weattemptedtocircleandgetinfrontofthemandevensetupandmadeafewcalls-mostlytheloudwhistlebutalsoacoupleofsongs.Wenevergotaresponse.Weheadedbacktobase-campandalongtheway,Isawwhatturnedouttobeaneightfootboaconstrictorlayingalongsidetheroadperhapsten feet out from the road (figure 28).Iyelled,“alto(stop)”andmotionedforthedrivertobackup.IjumpedouttogetapictureandthenineortenguidesandEmiliobeganyelling,“No!No!”.Idon’t
Figure 28: Boaconstrictorlyingintheedgeofthejungle.
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knowexactlywhattheythoughtIwasgoingtodobutaftersnappingaquickpicture,thesnakeslitheredintoaholeanddisappeared.Nootherexcitementoccurredbeforereachingcamp. Mythirdandfinalhuntofthisthirddayofhuntingbeganlessthananhourafterreturningtobase-camp.OneoftheguidesinformedOscar,thecampinterpreter,thattheywerehearingabirdnottoofarfromthebase-camp.Emilio,Marcosandmyselfloadedupforashortdrivewiththecamporganizer,Pablo,asourdriver.Pablodroppedusoffnearanoldfence-enclosedranch.Later,afterreturningtocamp,EBJr.toldmethathehadkilledhissecondbirdatthisranchthatsamemorning.Withintheenclosure,anareaofperhapsthreeacres,weresixthatch-roofeddwellingsand/orstorageareasinadditiontonumerouscoconut-bearingpalmtreesandlimetrees.Emilio,MarcosandIwalked65Romanpacesbeyondtheranchenclosureandwecouldhearthebirdsingingtothewestofthetrailwhichcoursedfromtheranch.Wesatdownalongthetrailnexttosometreesonlylargeenoughtonotbendoverasyousatagainstthem.WeusedtheCassCreekcallertomaketheloudwhistlethreetimesandthebirdcontinuedtosing.Atadistanceofperhaps60yardsthebird“hung-up”andwouldwalkbackandforthallthewhilesinginginasmallareajustbeyondoursight.Aftertwentyminutesofsilenceonourpart,wemadetheloudwhistleagainandthebirdcontinuedtosingbutstayedonhis“singingknob”.Approximately45minutesintoourstandoff,Iheardsomethingtoourleft.AtthesametimethatIrecognizedittobeahen,Emiliograbbedmyshoulderandstated,“hembra,no”.Wewatchedassheclosedtowithin12feetofourpositionbeforeflyingupandtowardthesinginggobbler.Wecontinuedourvigiluntilwerecognizedthathewasgoingawayfromus,allthewhilecontinuinghissinging.WethenwalkedbacktotheranchandatecoconutsuntilPabloreturnedforusjustafterdark. Thefourthmorning(Monday,April21)beganthelastdayofthehunt.Fiveofthesixhuntersincamphadalreadylimitedoutwithtwobirdseach.Thesoleexceptionwasthemostexperiencedocellatedturkeyhunterofthesixhuntersincamp-myself.Pabloawakenedmeat3:00a.m.Myfellowhunterscontinuedtosleep.Emilio,Marcosandasecondscoutandmyselfloadedupforashortdriveofperhapsamiletothenorthofcampbeforeturningtothewestanddrivinganothermilewhereatreelaidacrosstheroad.Weexitedthevehicle,crossedthefallentreeandcontinuedtofollowtheroadforatleastamile.WitheachstepinourjourneyInotedthevegetationintheroadincreasingsuchthatatthepointwherewelefttheroadtoenterthejungle,grassesandunderbrushwerecrotchdeep.Wecontinuedourwalkinthejungleforabout100yardsuntilwereachedalowlyingareahavingtwotothreeinchesofstandingwaterandabarklessfallenlogwhichwastobeourlisteningpost.EmilioandMarcostalkedwiththesecondscoutandheindicatedthattherewerethreesingingpavosintheareatheeveningbefore.WedousedourselveswithDEETandIignitedtheThermacell®.Itwas5:00a.m.andIleanedbackagainstalimbofthefallentree.IfeltsomethingstingthebackofmylefthandwhenItuggedatthetopofthebackofmyshirt.RememberingtheFer-de-Lancesfromcampearlierinthehunt,Ihadtofindoutwhathadstungmyhand.Retrievingmyflashlightfrommyoverallbib,Ishinedthelightinthedirectionfromwhencemystinghadcomeandtheregrowinginthebarklessfurrowofthelimbwasapencil-diametersized,green,spinytentacle.Isupposeitwassomekindofcactus.Emiliostrippeditfromthetreeandwecontinuedourvigil.At5:20a.m.abirdbegansingingtothesouthabout150yards.Anotherfiveminuteselapsedwhenasecondbirdsangbutonlyonceandagain,hewasabout150yardsfromourpositionbuttothenorth.At5:30a.m.thethirdbirdsangtothesoutheastandnomorethan60yardsaway.ItwasobviousthatthiswasthebirdthatthesecondscoutwaswaitingtohearasheexcitedlygesturedtoEmiliothedirection.EmilioandIleftMarcosandthesecondscoutandmadetowardtheroostsite.Wemanagedtosneaktowithin20yardsoftheroosttreeandwatchedthetreeleavesshakeagainstthedawningeasternskyeachtimethegobblerwouldsing.Intimetheskybecamebrightenoughtopermitseeingthegobblerhimselfroostedinthetreenotmorethan20feetofftheground.Weplayedthesongonourcallertwicebeforeheflewdowntothesoutheastandthen,asindicatedbyhisbassbongotones,hecircledtothenorthandfinallytotheeast.Whenthegobblerwas
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almostoutofhearing,EmilioandIpushedtowardtheeastandstoppedinthejunglethicknessatapointwhereanothersixfeetoutthejungleopenedupandonecouldseefor40yards.Wesatdownandbeganplayingtheloudwhistle.Thebird’stonesbecamemoredistinctandaudiblewithinmomentsofourwhistling.HeseemedtostopatalocationjustbeyondourvisibilityandthenimmediatelyafteroneoftheCassCaller’sloudwhistles,Isawmovement.Hewascomingstraightforusandclucking-morethepitchandtoneofachickenthanaturkeybackhome.Wewatchedasthebirdcametowithintenyardsofourset-up.AlmostatthemomentEmiliotappedmyshoulderanduttered,“hembra,“Isawthatitwasahen.Wesatquietlyandwatchedassheretracedherstepsawayfromusandbacktothegobbler.Thelastweheardofhim,hewasmakingabeelineinasoutheasterlydirectionandseemedtobewastingnotime.Eventhepenetratingbassbongoportionofhissongsoonmeltedintothejungle.Heseemedtohaveanappointmenttokeepthoughdefinitelynotwithus.IlookedatEmilioandasked,“Dondeahora(Wherenow)?”,hepointedinthedirectionfromwherewehadcome.Igatheredmygearandfollowedhim. AsweapproachedthevicinitywherewehadearlierleftMarcosandthesecondscout,weheardwhistling.ItwasMarcos.Hedirectedustothesouthandtogetherthethreeofuswalkedforperhaps200yardswhenweweresignaledbythesecondscout.HehadstayedwiththemostsoutherlyofthethreeroostedgobblerswhileEmilioandIhadworkedthemiddlebird.Thismostsoutherlybirdnowseemedtobestationaryandobviouslyontheground.Leavingthescout,EmilioandIeasedtotheeastandsetupalongsidewhatappearedtobearoadalthoughthevegetationwaskneehigh.Wesatononesideandthebirdwasontheotherandabout50yardstothesouth. Wecalledusingthesongandthoughwecoulddiscernthatthebirdmovedfromourlefttotherightashortdistance,hissongindicatedthathehadcomenocloser.Wepressedthesongbuttonthreemoretimesoverafifteenminuteintervalandthoughthebirdsangcontinuously,hedidnotcomecloser.Backhomeagobblerexhibitingthissamebehaviorwouldbereferredtoas“hungup”andonagobblingknob.IinquiredofEmilioastowhetherahillorknollexistedwherethebirdwassingingbutwastoldinsomanywordsthatthejunglewasflat.Eventuallythebirdmovedofftotheeastandallbutoutofmyhearing.Emiliogotupfromoursetupandmotionedformetofollowhim. Wecircledtothenortheastandthenbacksouthandsome100yardssoutheastofourformerposition.Weheardthebirdagain.Hewasheadedinourdirectionandsinging.Welookedaboutandfoundnothinglargeenoughtobreakupouroutlines.Thetreeswerenotverylargeinthisparticularpartofthejungleandthejunglewasbeginningtowarmupconsiderably.Wewaitedandthebirdcametowithin20to25yardsofus.Wecouldnotseehimthoughwecouldhearhimwalkingintheleaveslitteringthejunglefloor.Welistenedasheturnedandmovedontotheeastandwhenwecouldhearonlyhisbongo-likebasstones,weagaincircledtothenortheast.Thistimewecoveredmoregroundandmorequicklythanwithourpriorattempttogetinfrontofthebird.Thisattempttookabout30minutesandagainwewounduptothesoutheastofourpriorlocation.Bythetimewesetup,wewereabsolutelywringingwetwithsweat.However,intimewediscernedthatournewpositionseemedtobeperfect.Hissingingindicatedthatweweredirectlyinhispath. Withinafewminuteswecouldheartheyodelportionofhissongandforjustabriefmoment,Icaughtaglimpseofhimashemadehiswaytous.Hewasperhaps30yardsfromusandslowlypickinghiswayinourdirection.NeitherEmilionorImadeasound. Overthenextfiveminutesthebirdclosedthedistancetowithin8to10yards.Hewasdirectlyoppositewhatappearedtobearecentlyfallentree.Wewereunabletoseehimduetothefoliageofthisonefallentreeandhewascontinuingtowalktoourleft,thewest.Idecidedtopressthesongbutton.Ididandhestoppedandcontinuedtosing.Ipressedthesongbuttonasecondtimeandhecontinuedtosingbutfromthesamespot.Hewasnotmoving.Ipressedtheloudwhistlebuttonandhenevermissedabeatintermsofhisownsingingbutagain,hestayedinthesamespot.
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OffinthedistanceEmilioandIcouldhearMarcosandthesecondscoutbeckoningus.EmiliomotionedformetoattempttocrawlonthegroundaroundthetopofthetreeandseeifIcouldseethebird.IdidbutIgotnomorethansixfeetwhentwobirds-jay-likeinappearance-landedinthetreesaboveme.Almostimmediatelyuponlandingtheybeganvocalizingwhatsoundedsimilartovocalizationsmadebybluejaysbackhomeandwiththeircallingtheturkeyhushedimmediately.Withthejayscontinuingintheircalling,Iraisedupandlookedabout.Ourturkeyhaddisappearedandwasnottobeseenorheardagain. EmilioandIleftthebirdat9:30a.m.andheadedback.MarcosandEmiliowhistledtooneanotheruntilwemetbackupwithMarcos.Theythenwhistledtothesecondscoutwhowaswaitingwherewehadoriginallydepartedwhenthesinginghadcommencedjustbeforedaylight.Finally,weallwalkeduptheroadtowardwherewehadleftthevehicleatthefallentree.Within100yardsofthevehicle,wecameuponPablo,hisyoungsonandacoupleofothersfromcampwhohadfoundamonashtree.Theyhadcutthe6inchdiametertreedownacrosstheroadandwerecollectingthemonashfruitfromit.Weallfeastedonthebrightredjungledelicacyandevenpickedupthefruitthathadfallenoffthelimbsandontothegroundwhenthetreefell.Afterwardwewalkedtothetruckanddrovebacktocampwhereaheartymealofturkey,refriedbeans,riceandtortillaswasserved. By1:00p.m.Ihaddrunkagallonofwater,asodaandacoupleofGallobeers.Iwasbeginningtofeelrejuvenated,evenreadyforthelasthuntoftheday.At2:00p.m.Lovettaswellwasfeelinghisoats,sotospeak,andtoldmethathefeltthatIhadindeedgottenmymoney’sworthonthishunt.Further,hesaidthatIhadsufferedsufficientlyandthathehadinstructedtheguidesandscoutstotakemetowherecallablebirdswereforthismylasthunt.Jessetoowantedtogo,tofilmthehunt.Afterall,hehadfinishedhishuntsfortheocellatedturkeyonthefirstdayandhehadamplycaughtuponhissleep.TogetherwithMarcos,Emilio,Alphonso,Mainor,Yomoniandahalfdozenotherscouts,wesetoutfor“alittleplace,onlyabout4kmaway.”Ishouldhavebeentippedbythefactthatwewereleavingat2:00p.m.whenwenormallydidn’tleavefortheafternoonhuntsuntil3:00p.m.butI’llhavetopleaddehydrationofthebrain-Ididn’tputitalltogether. Wedrovefor19kilometers,pastaforkintheroadwhichindicatedbyplacard-inSpanish-thatabinationalpreservewasjustfiveorsixkilometersahead.WealsogotstuckfourtimesbeforearrivingatDosNaciones.Whilestuckatthefourthsite,afewofthescoutsbegantoworkongettingthevehicleoutwhileothersventuredfurtheronuptheroadandevenotherswalkedbackdownthejungleroadfromwhencewehadcome.IwaswatchingJessefilmtheextricationofthevehiclewhenoneoftheguides,Mainor,whohadgoneonuptheroadscouting,camerunningbacktothevehicletotellEmilio,Marcosandmyselfthathehadseenamuygrandepavointheroad.Wegrabbedourgearandtookoffbehindhim. Uponreachingtheplacewherethegobblerhadbeenspotted,whichwasinacurveinthejungleroad,Mainorassumedacrawling,pronepositionandIstayed10to12feetbehindwithJessefilmingfrombehindme.Wemoveduptheroadfor30or40yardswhenMainorsignaledtogoback.Thoughwewerenevertold,apparentlythebirdlefttheroadandwentintothejungle.Emilio,Marcosandacoupleofguideshastilyconstructedablindinthemiddleoftheroadmadeofpalmettopalmbranches.Wesatthereonlyacoupleofminuteswhenyetanotherguideapproachedtheblindfromtheoppositedirection,thatis,fromthedirectionofthevehicle.HetoldEmiliothatagobblerwasintheroadandsingingjustdowntheroadbehindthevehicle. EmilioandIjumpedupandoutoftheblindandranasquicklyaswecouldbackdowntheroadforperhapsaquartermile.Alphonso,oneofthescouts,hadmarkedwithapalmettopalmfrondthebird’sexittotheeastintothejunglefromtheroad.TogetherwelistenedforacoupleofminuteswhileEmilioandIeachcaughtourbreath.Then,weheardit,theunmistakablebassbongotones.Wecouldnotheartheendofthesongand,indeed,thebirdmayhavenotvocalizedtheentiretyofitssong.Wehadtoassumethatthebirdwas50to100yardsaway.BythistimeJessehadcaughtupwithusandthe
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threeofus-Emilio,JesseandI-beganaquietbutfocusedapproachtowardthebird.Wehadmadeitintothejungleabout60yardswhenweheardthebongotonesagain.Theywereclose,seeminglywithin35to40yards.Lookingabout,wespiedalargeCeibatreewithhugebuttressingroots.Thethreeofuseasedinagainstthetreebetweentwooftherootsandonthesideofthetreeoppositethebird. IremovedtheCassCreekcallerfrommyoverallbibandpressedthesongbutton.Noimmediateresponsefromthebirdbutwithin15seconds,hesang.Hewastothenortheastanddefinitelyclosertousthanwhenwelastheardhimsing.Ipressedthesongbuttonagainandthebirdsangalmostimmediately-hewasnomorethan15yardsfromusandIcouldnotseehim.Suddenly,Icaughtmovementstraightinfrontofmeandperhaps10to12yardsout.Itwasanocellatedturkey. IwaslookingatthebirdfromthenorthsideofthetreewhileEmilioandJessewerewatchingfromthesouthsideofthesametreebutfourfeetfromme.Icouldnotseeacrownonthebird’shead;Icouldnotseespurs.Couldthisbeahen?Afterall,Ihadalreadycalledinatleasttwoandarguably,threehensthusfarduringthishuntingtrip,includingoneearlierthissamemorning.Iletthebirdpasstomyrightandoutofsightwhilepeeringinthedirectionfromwhenceithadcomeinanticipationofagobblerfollowingthis“hen”.Withintwoorthreesecondsofmypassingonthebird,IheardEmiliosay,“macho(male)”followedby,“disparar(shoot)!”.EchoingEmilio,JessewassayingthesameinEnglish,“it’sagobbler,shoot”. IsupposethebirdheardthecommotionorperhapssawJesse’ssilver-tonedvideocameraormaybebothbut,forwhateverreason,thebirdturnedandheadedbackthesamewayithadcome.Steppingbackintomyview,itwasclose-maybetenyards.Istillcouldnottellthatitwasamale,muchlessthatitwasamaturegobbler.Istillcoulddiscernnocrownand,tryasImay,Icouldseenosemblanceofspurs.Inanotherfourorfivefeetthejunglewouldabsorbthebirdand,atleastfrommyperspectivehereinthelasthourofthelasteveningofthefinaldayofhunting,itwasthesameasforever.IhadtotrustthatEmilioandmyfriendpeeringfromtheothersideoftheCiebatreewereindeedlookingatthesamebirdthatIwaslookingat.Ihadtotrustthatthisbirdwasinfactagobbler.BecauseitwassocloseandIwantedtodoaslittledamageaspossibletoitsplumage,Iwaitedforittostepbehindsomexatépalmfronds.Assoonasitwasbehindthem,IpulledthetriggeronthelittleRussian-madesingleshot.Thebirdrolledfrommelikeabowlingball.IwassureitwasdownbutthevantagepointofEmilioandJessedidnotprovidethesameperspective;theywereoutinaflashandonthefloppingbirdwhileIstoodatthebaseoftheCeibatreewaitingtoheareithershoutsofjubilation,ifindeeditwasagobbler,ormuffledgruntsifitwereahen.IreallydidnotknowwhichtoanticipateWhilestillinmytranceofexpectation,Iheardcongratulations.Isteppedfromthetreeandtowardthemandmybird-alwayslistentoyourguideandagoodfriend.ItwasindeedagobblerandJessehadindeedcapturedtheshotonvideo-notasclearlyperhapsasvideofootageseenontelevisionbackhomeoftheharvestofaNorthAmericangobblerbut,avideononethelessoftheharvestofanocellatedturkeyintypicalGuatemalanjunglevegetation.Itwas5:07p.m.,thelasthourofdaylightandthelastdayofthehunt. Westeppedofftheshot-12yardswithseveralinterveningtrees,someupto10inchesindiameter,havingcaughtshotononeedgeortheother.Thebirditselfhad1and5/8inchspursandweighed10pounds14ounces(figure 29).Hisplumagewasinremarkablecondition,hewouldmakeabeautifulmount.JesseandEmiliocongratulatedmeontheshot.Ithankedthemforcueingmetothefactthatitwasindeedagobbler.Istoodandreflectedonmypriorocellatedturkeyadventures.TogetherwiththeeventsofthisdayIhadcompletednotonlythisGuatemalanhuntbutalsothestoryofocellatedturkeyhunting.Ihadcalledintheocellatedturkey-twomorningsbeforefromtheroost-andnow,withthisbird,Ihadcalledoneinthatwasnodoubtheadedtohisroostsite.Truly,withtheCassCreekInternationalcallerel gringo cazador cantar (thegringohuntersings).
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Wewalkedthe60yardsouttothejungleroadandsatdowntoawaitourride.Spidermonkeysentertainedusfromthejunglecanopyuntilthetruckarrived.Theridebacktocampincludedonlytwoperiodsofdowntimeowingtogettingstuck.Thesecondofthedowntimesrequiredanhourandthreequarterstogetbackrolling.Thisparticularincidentwasnoteworthyinthatthedriverfelloffintoratherdeeprutswhichleftthevehiclecompletelybottomedout.Therewasnofingerpointingorharassingofthedriveratall.Rather,thetruckloadofguides,scoutsandthedriverhimselfjumpedout,quietlyassessedthesituationandthree-quartersofthemfannedoutanddisappearedintothejungleoneithersideoftheroad.Firefliesandflashlightsbeamedwhilehackingsoundsofmachetesontreesfilledthenight.Withintenminutesallwerebackatthetruck.Whilesomehanddugdampdirtfromundertheframe,othersfashionedtwofeetlengthsofsixinchdiametertreesintotwoinchthickboardswithmachetesandothersscoopeddirtandpalmleavesintotheruts.Finally,asmallhydraulicjackwasusedtojackupthebackandfrontofonesideofthetruck.Rockswereplacedunderthetiresandthejackwasremoved.Threeseparateattempts,witheverymanpushingattherearofthevehicle,werenecessarybeforethedriverclimbedthetruckoutoftheruts.Whenhedid,therewereloudshoutsofjubilationandallclimbedbackintothetruck.Wearrivedbackatthemaincampabouttenp.m.OnlyNealEichholz,Lovett’sableassistant,datarecorder,campentertainerie.,guitarplayer (figure 30) and Pablowereawake.Spurlengths,theweight,andthelocationofmykillwererecorded.WeallthenheadedtooursleepinghutsorasJessehadrenamedours,“elculebraanidararea(thesnakenestingarea).” Thefollowingmorning,thebirdwasskinnedandsaltedwhileJesseandIrecountedthepriorevening’shuntoverbreakfastwiththeotherhunters.WethenbrokecampandleftforUaxactunabout9:00a.m.By1:30p.m.wewereawaitingpermissiontoexitTikalNationalParkwithourbirdsandbythreewewerebackatthemotel. BytheendofthefollowingdayJesseandIhadarrivedinAtlanta,GA.HemadehisconnectingflighttoRaleigh,NCwhilemylastflightlegdidnotoccuruntilthefollowingday.OurbirdsandpaperworkwereconfiscatedinAtlantabyCustomsandBorderProtectionofficers.Twoweekslater,aftermuchwrangling-whichisyetanotherstory-thetaxidermistreceivedourbirds.
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Figure 30: NealEichholz-Uaxactun-basedocellatedturkeycampdatarecorderandentertainer
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Figure 29: ScottBranton’ssecond“calledin”Guatemalanocellatedturkey,1½inchspurs.
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