Chapter 4 Pre-Production

(Apparel)

Pre-Production Process ................................................................................................................................. 2

I. Development Process ........................................................................................................................... 3 a. Color Standards.................................................................................................................................. 3 b. Line Presentation Sample Yardage – Wovens & Knits – Solid & Yarn Dye ................................... 3 c. Line Presentation Sample Yardage - Prints ..................................................................................... 4

II. Approval Process ................................................................................................................................... 6 a. Quality and Handfeel Approval – Wovens & Knits – Solid and Yarn Dyed ................................. 6 b. Print Approval Process ....................................................................................................................... 6 c. Color / Lab Dip Approvals ............................................................................................................... 8 d. Trim Approval Process ..................................................................................................................... 10 e. Embellishment Approvals ............................................................................................................... 12 f. Wash Approval Process – Development and Production ........................................................... 12 g. Bulk Approval Process – Fabric, Print, Color, Trim ........................................................................ 14

III. Appendix – Talbots Sample Forms ..................................................................................................... 15

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Pre-Production Process Talbots engages with Agents/Vendors/Suppliers seasonally to develop a proprietary collection for the Talbots brand. The following detailed information encompasses our development process for raw material, color, and line presentation samples through bulk approval on these components.

Our Agents/Vendors/Suppliers are ultimately responsible for the quality of their merchandise delivered to Talbots according to the information contained in this chapter. These guidelines will clarify Talbots’ expectations and requirements during the pre-production phase to ensure quality standards for our bulk execution.

We believe that taking a proactive approach to identifying and resolving potential issues in the pre- production process results in delivering the best quality product to our customers.

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I. Development Process a. Color Standards

At the beginning of each season, Talbot’s buying agent will distribute official color standards to each fabric supplier.

Indicated on each color standard:

• Season • Color Name/Color #

b. Line Presentation Sample Yardage – Wovens & Knits – Solid & Yarn Dye Talbots Fabric R & D Team will issue a sample Purchase Order to our Buying Agents to be ordered on Talbots’ behalf with a required completion date. Talbots’ Buying Agent will manage and communicate weekly to Talbots Fabric R & D on Line Presentation Sample Yardage status – If there are any delays teams need to be notified prior to delivery date.

Talbots must receive a Fabric Detail Sheet* or Yarn Detail Sheet* in order to issue a Line Presentation Sample Order.

Upon completion of Line Presentation Sample Yardage, the following must be sent to Talbots Fabric R & D Team (via buying agent) in all qualities and colors &:

(Agents must call out and quality/color concerns for LPSY prior to sending references)

Wovens (Solids/YD) and Knits

Submission of three (3) A4 swatches mounted on Line Presentation Sample Yardage Submit Form. In the case of a Y/D, Jacquard or engineered stripe swatch must be large enough to show the full repeat.

Sweaters

Submission of one (1) A4 representation swatch knitted in jersey stitch, mounted on Talbots Line Presentation Sample Yardage Knitdown Form*.

Fabric/yarn details required on all A4 submits (All agents must use the same format to keep consistency)

• Buying Agent / Agent Office • Season/MONTH • Talbots Description Program Name • Mill /Mill Article Reference • Content • Fabric weight • Bulk price • Yarn size (sweaters and knits) • Color name/Color # (indicate if color is from fabric supplier’s own color library/color card) • Face Side Clearly Marked On All Submits (except sweaters)

• On the LPSY form, in the comment section, our expectation is for vendor/agents to highlight any discrepancies occurring in Line Presentation Sample Yardage from original mill swatch or previously submitted header.

Talbots Agents/Vendors/Suppliers are required to review each fabric quality against the designated Talbots testing protocol. At this point, any potential performance

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issues that may not meet Talbots’ quality standards must be reported to Talbots Research and Development and Product Integrity Teams.

*Talbots Fabric Detail Sheet, Yarn Detail Sheet, Line Presentation Sample Yardage Submit Form, Line Presentation Sample Yardage-Knitdown Form are each represented in the Appendix of this chapter).

c. Line Presentation Sample Yardage - Prints

Talbots Print Team will issue a sample Purchase Order = Print Package (including CAD, Artwork) to our buying agents to be ordered on Talbots behalf, with a required completion date. Talbots buying agent will manage and communicate weekly to Talbots Print Department on Line Presentation Sample Yardage status.

Our expectation is that any print limitations/execution issues must be communicated to Talbots via our buying agent prior to engraving screens.

Talbots must receive A FDS or YDS in order to issue a Line Presentation Sample Order.

Upon completion of Line Presentation Sample Yardage, the following information must be sent to Talbots Print Team (via buying agent), in all qualities/colorways:

Wovens/Knit Printed Fabrics

Two (2) yards + 1 A4 swatch mounted on Line Presentation Sample Yardage Print Submit Form*

Printed Sweaters

One full garment in every print & color combo + S/O

Fabric/yarn details required on all submits

• Season • Buying Agent / Agent Office • Talbots Print Name / Combo # • Talbots Department • Submit Date • Mill / Quality # • Content • Fabric weight • Yarn size (sweaters/knits) • Construction • Price • On the LPSY Print Submit form, in the comment section, our expectation is for vendor/agents

to highlight any discrepancies occurring in Line Presentation Sample Yardage from original artwork.

Talbots Agents/Vendors/Suppliers are required to review each fabric quality against the designated Talbots testing protocol. At this point, any potential performance issues that may not meet Talbots’ quality standards must be reported to Talbots Research and Development and Product Integrity Teams.

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Line Presentation Samples

Talbots Product Development Team (PD) will communicate with buying agent on all LP sample requirements – quantity, color, and required submission date.

• LP samples must be made in accordance with Talbots technical package (tech pack) • Substitutions of fabric and trim must be communicated and approved by Talbots through our

buying agent • All LP samples must have approved wash formula applied • Talbots buying agent will communicate with New York PD on LP and fit sample ready dates • LP samples should be sent to Talbots buying agent

Labels / Hangtag Requirements

All LP samples must be marked as Line Presentation Sample and have both - Talbots sewn-in label and Talbots hangtag fully completed with the relevant information.

Sample Type should be marked as Line Presentation Sample • Buying Agent/Factory • Size • Season • Style # • Mill/Mill Article Reference • Fiber Content • Const/Stitch • Yarn Size/Count • GG/Ends/Fabric Weight • Color Name/Color Number • Print Name/Color Combination Number • Wash Applied: • Submit Date:

Clearly identify and list on backside of tag: any/all substitute fabrics or trims including wash comments.

LP Sample Packing

LP samples should be sent flat packed in a poly bag with no hangers.

Fit Sample

In addition to LP samples, we require one (1) additional Fit Sample for every style.

The fit sample must be marked on hangtag and inside tag as Fit Sample Type. The fit sample must be packed in a separate poly bag with pattern and checklist. Fit samples must be sent at the same time as LP samples. Once style is adopted, the Talbots Product Development Team will pass to Talbots Technical Design Team for first fit.

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II. Approval Process

a. Quality and Handfeel Approval – Wovens & Knits – Solid and Yarn Dyed When office is setting bulk standard from LPSY after quality has been adopted for bulk order our agent will select the best reference for accurate, weight, hand feel & overall fabric appearance. The office will then cut ½ yard to send to NY office for our reference and keep the other ½ yd for their office. Upon receipt of the following points if there is no issues or questions we will send an email for approval and attach scanned image of bulk approval form for your reference: BULK STANDARD PACKAGE SHOULD INCLUDE: 1-1/2 YD of punched fabric that was punched in minimum of 3 areas to verify weight before sending. 3 – Most current FDS filled out 4 – Completed bulk standard template BULK STANDARD EMAIL: Bulk Standard email should have latest FDS on it. If there is any changes on the FDS this needs to be notified in the email.

Talbots buying agent is responsible for distributing approved standard to fabric supplier.

In such cases that fabric supplier/Talbots agent must establish parameters around acceptable effects/defects due to irregular fabric characteristics or bulk limitations, the fabric supplier is required to submit sufficient yardage - circled or marked - with the irregular fabric characteristic/limitation on the “face side”, and attached with full fabric details to Talbots buying agent.

Talbots Fabric R & D and Product Integrity Team will communicate acceptable tolerance to buying agents and retain a reference for our records.

b. Print Approval Process Once print has been adopted, Talbots New York Print Team will provide comments on Line Presentation Sample Yardage to Talbots buying agent. Talbots will comment on the overall print execution of the following elements:

• Engraving technique and registration • Color • Repeat / Layout • Handfeel

All required resubmission strike-offs must be sent to Talbots buying agent. Strike-offs must be sent with full print repeat on Talbots Print Submit Form* with completed information:

• Buying Agent/Agent Office

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• Season • Talbots Department • Talbots Style # • Print Description Name / Color Combo # • Mill / Mill Article Reference/ Quality # • Content / Weight • Submit Date • Entity: Direct Only / Direct & Stores • Units • Price • Final Approval Date • Print Method

*Talbots Fabric Standard Card is represented in the Appendix of this chapter

*Talbots Print Submit Form is represented in the Appendix of this chapter

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c. Color / Lab Dip Approvals Raw materials requiring color approval and all variants of trim and components requiring color approval must be submitted to the buying agent’s color department for Talbots approval, prior to the start of manufacturing.

Light Source Requirement

To ensure consistency of color approvals, it is necessary to ensure the supplier, our buying agents and Talbots are all using the same light source.

• Primary Light Source - Cool White Fluorescent (CWF) • Secondary Light Source - Daylight (D65)

Every effort must be made to match the color under both light sources. If the dyer cannot achieve a color match under both light sources, then the buying agent and Talbot’s Color Department must be alerted immediately.

Light Box Requirement

All fabrics and variants of trim and components requiring color approval must be viewed under a Macbeth light box with the following requirements. If requirements are not properly adhered to, color approvals are difficult for the dyer.

• To ensure color continuity, all visual evaluations must be performed in a Macbeth Spectralight Light Box or similar Light Box

• Viewing angle should be 45 degrees to the observer • Light box paint color should be neutral grey (Munsell n7) • Light box must be certified on an annual basis • Light bulbs should be checked periodically for malfunctioning bulbs and replaced

immediately to ensure accuracy of light source

Please contact MacBeth for questions regarding light box equipment Macbeth USA (914) 565-7660

Far East (Hong Kong) 011 852 236 87738 Europe (Italy) 011 390 558 77699 Europe (Switzerland) 011 411 842 1111

Terminology for Color Comments

Every color comment will be given to the Fabric supplier in the same clear/concise language. Comments will include a visual evaluation of the color difference between the standard and the submission, and instructions for color corrections. For colors requiring correction, comments will be advised on one of the factors listed below that is most critical for corrections on the lab dip color.

Factors for color comments:

1. Lightness - Depth/Value: (L) the lightness or darkness of a color 2. Chroma/Saturation: (C) the brightness or dullness of a color 3. Hue/Cast: (H) the shade or cast of color (red, green, yellow, etc.)

When evaluating color, the light box must be clear of all debris and samples. Standard and submission must be aligned in the same direction with edges touching.

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Lab Dip Submission and Sample Yardage Color Approval

Guidelines for lab dip submission process:

• Sample yardage is considered the first lab dip • Fabric suppliers must submit to buying agent’s color department, a cutting of sample

yardage fabric, as follows: o Wovens (solids/YD) & Knits – 1 A4 swatch mounted to Talbots LPSY Form o Sweaters – 1 A4 swatch knitted in jersey stitch counted to Talbots LPSY Knitdown form

• Buying agent will forward to Talbots New York Color Team for approval • If the color originates from the fabric supplier’s own color library/color card, the fabric

supplier must submit it on the correct lab dip form, labeled as fabric supplier color, with fabric supplier’s identification number or name

• Lab dips (for knitwear) must be submitted in knitdown form; yarn submits are not accepted • Fabric supplier should send 1st lab dip resubmission to Talbots buying agent within 10 days

upon receipt of color comments. Any additional l/dip rounds should be submitted within 7 days upon receipt of color comments.

• Talbots expects to approve lab dip in three rounds or less; if not approved within this timeframe, Talbots will review exceptions on a case-by-case basis

All subsequent lab dips must be mounted on Talbots Lab Dip Submit Form, fully completed with required information

• Buying Agent / Agent Office • Season • Talbots Department • Talbots Style Number • Mill / Mill Article Reference • Color Name / Color Number • Submit Date • Entity: Direct Only / Direct & Stores • Units: • Lab Dip Approval Date

Repeat and Talbots Year Round Colors (Talbots Always Colors)

For all previously approved colors, reapproval is required every year. The same submission and approval process is applied as outlined in the section above.

Talbots Lab Dip Submission Form can be obtained from Talbots buying agent; sample form is represented in the Appendix of this chapter

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d. Trim Approval Process All submitted trims, both functional and decorative, must be compliant with Talbots Restricted Substance List Policy (RSL) and all other relevant testing protocols detailed in Chapter 8. All trims must be sent to Talbots buying agent; buying agent will coordinate approval from Talbots Product Development Team.

Talbots defines two stages of trim development:

• Development trim for Line Presentation Samples • Trim Approval Process for Bulk

Upon completion of Season Line Review, Talbots will update the CFT (Color, Fabric, Trim Page) of the Technical Design Package and confirm trim approved for bulk.

No bulk trim orders should be placed until Talbots Approves for Bulk (AFB).

Trims That Require Submission to Talbots Buying Agent for NY Approval

DTM Trims

• Denim/Knit/Novelty (Print/Yarndye) sewing thread, Buttons, Exposed Lining, Tape, Beads, Zipper Tape (except Invisible Zippers), Grosgrain, Piping, Laces, etc.

All DTM trims should be lab dipped to Talbots color standards and submitted for approval on Talbots Lab Dip Submit Form* fully completed with required information:

• Buying Agent / Agent Office • Season • Talbots Department • Talbots Style Number • Body Fabric Mill / Article # • Trim and Trim Article Reference • Color Name / Color Number • Submit Date • Units: • Trim Approval Date • Sketch for Trim Placement Location

Stock Trims (Lining, Grosgrain/Tapes)

All trim supplier stock colors indicated on Color Fabric Trim page do not require Color Approval.

Metal Hardware

Only new finishes or qualities would require approval; (rivets, shanks, snaps, pulls, stoppers, etc – all running trims in approved finishes are not required for reapproval).

Zippers

All nominated supplier zippers do not required submission for approval when selected from supplier finish card. Zipper tapes only need to be submitted for approval if issued as DTM (except Invisible Zippers).

Bulk Trim Approval – all DTM bulk trims should match back to approved bulk shell fabric.

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*Talbots Lab Dip Submission Form can be obtained from Talbots buying agent; sample forms are represented in the Appendix of this chapter

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e. Embellishment Approvals Vendors are required to submit all embellishments to buying agent who will coordinate with Talbots Product Development for approval.

All submits must be correct for size, color, layout, thread, beads, etc. Position and placement will be determined by Talbots Technical Design Team.

f. Wash Approval Process – Development and Production This section outlines the wash process and requirements for all wash programs from initial development through bulk.

Non Denim/Non Garment Dye Fabric Approval Process for Initial Development

Seasonally, Talbots will initiate new wash development through our buying agent. This initial development must be approved prior to Line Presentation Sample making. All Line Presentation Samples must be made with the approved wash standard.

Requirements for All Wash Submits

• Leg tube size: 8”W x 15”L (one side: open seam, other side: flat fell). Top hem is 1/2” single needle and bottom hem is 3/8” chain stitch

• Front side of leg tube is clean, backside has a 5-pocket back patch pocket • Sticker/hangtag attached to each leg tube with mill, mill reference article, and applied

formula • Pile fabrics to be cut with pile up • Woven tops: 1 full sleeve with cuff + double needle topstitch (sticker or hangtag should be

attached with above information)

Non Denim/Non Garment Dye Wash Standard Approval from Development for Line Presentation Samples

• Talbots will approve wash from initial development to be used for Line Presentation Samples. It will be entered into the Development Tech Pack

• Hangtag on outside and sewn-in label inside of Line Presentation Sample must have mill, mill reference article, and applied formula information

Non Denim/Non Garment Dye Wash Approval from Line Presentation Samples to Bulk

• Washes on Line Presentation Samples will be reviewed by Talbots - all Line Presentation Sample washes are approved by Talbots.

• Approved wash standard should be kept with Talbots, buying agent, and vendor • When resubmission is required, Talbots must receive two full garment for wash approval; one

full signed approved garment will be returned to agent to follow for bulk.

Non Denim/Non Garment Dye Bulk Wash Approval

• Full samples must be submitted to Talbots in bulk fabric with approved wash in a light, medium and dark color for normal garment wash. Talbots must receive all colors for heavy garment or enzyme wash.

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Non Denim Bulk Shade band Approval

• Vendor will determine required range of shade band for each color and will submit to Talbots buying agent

• After wash, dye lots not approved by Talbots buying agent, will be sent for final color approval to Talbots Product Development Team and Sourcing on an exception basis

Denim Fabric Denim/Garment Dye Fabric Approval Process for Initial Development

Seasonally, Talbots will initiate new wash development through our buying agent. Talbots will initiate wash development for denim in several ways. Through our buying agent, Talbots may request supplier to develop a range of washes before we select our desired standard. In some cases, Talbots opts to specify a standard or duplicate an original inspiration.

Supplier Requested to Develop Range of Washes (No Original Talbots Standard)

• Wash submits should be ½ garments • Sticker or hangtag attached to each ½ garment with mill, mill reference article, and applied

formula information • Woven tops: 1 full sleeve with cuff + double need topstitch (sticker or hangtag should be

attached with above information

Supplier Requested to Duplicate Original Talbots Target Standard

• Full garment based on Talbots 5 pocket spec for all washes requiring both wet and dry processes

• Sticker or hangtag attached to each garment with mill, mill reference article, and applied formula information

Denim/Garment Dye Wash Standard Approval from Development for Line Presentation Samples

• Talbots will approve wash from initial development to be used for Line Presentation Samples. It will be entered into the Development Tech Pack

• Hangtag on outside, and sewn in label on inside of Line Presentation Sample must have mill, mill reference article, and applied formula information

• Talbots will send full approved sample back to buying agent for denim with wet and dry process for Line Presentation Sample production

Denim/Garment Dye Wash Approval from Line Presentation Samples to Bulk

• Two sets of LP samples need to be sent for each denim wash/garment dye color. • Washes on Line Presentation Samples will be reviewed by Talbots • If wash is approved, Talbots buying agent must verify that vendor keep sample is a duplicate

to Talbots approved standard • Approved wash standard should be kept with Talbots, buying agent, and vendor • When resubmission is required, Talbots must receive three full garment for wash approval;

one full signed approved garment will be returned to agent to follow for bulk.

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Denim/Garment Dye Bulk Shade band Approval

• Vendor will determine required range of shade band for each wash and will submit to Talbots buying agent

• After wash, dye lots not approved by Talbots buying agent, will be sent for final color approval to Talbots Product Development and Sourcing Team on an exception basis

Denim Pre-Production Samples

• Prior to shipping bulk, Talbots Tech Team must receive one Pre Production sample per wash (Missy size 8 – any fit) with all approved trims and wash. Talbots does not require any carryover seasonal washes with the exception of factory or fabric changes.

g. Bulk Approval Process – Fabric, Print, Color, Trim First Bulk Fabric Submission Color Approval

Fabric suppliers are required to submit an 8” x 10” cutting from first bulk for color approval to Talbots buying agent. Buying agent will forward to Talbots Color Department for approval. Bulk must be submitted on a Talbots Bulk Submission Form*, completed with all relevant information.

• Buying Agent / Agent Office • Season • Talbots Department • Talbots Style Number • Mill / Mill Article Reference • Color Name / Color Number • Submit Date • Entity: Direct Only / Direct & Stores • Units

Bulk Dye Lot Color Approval

Talbots approves the first bulk lot. All subsequent dye lots will be sent to buying agent for dye lot approvals based on first bulk approval. Dye lots not approved by Talbots buying agent, will be sent for final color approval to Talbots Color Department and Sourcing in Hingham on an exception basis.

First Bulk Submission Print Approval

Fabric suppliers are required to submit a full repeat cutting from first bulk for approval to Talbots buying agent. Buying agent will forward to Talbots Print Department for approval. Bulk submits must be attached to Talbots Print Submit Form*, fully completed with required information.

• Buying Agent/Agent Office • Season • Talbots Department • Talbots Style # • Print Description Name / Color Combo # • Mill / Mill Article Reference/ Quality # • Content / Weight • Submit Date • Entity: Direct Only / Direct & Stores • Units • Price • Final Approval Date

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• Print Method

First Bulk Submission Trim Approval

All bulk trim should be sent to Talbots buying agent for approval. Any bulk trim not approved by buying agent will be sent to Talbots Product Development Team for final approval.

*Talbots First Bulk Lot Submit Form sample is represented in the Appendix of this chapter

III. Appendix – Talbots Sample Forms

Fabric Detail Sheet - Woven

Fabric Detail Sheet - Knit

Yarn Detail Sheet - Sweater

Trim Detail Sheet

Print Submit Form

Line Presentation Sample Yardage Submit Form

Line Presentation Sample Yardage woven/knit Form

Lab Dip Submission Form

First Bulk Lot Submit Form

Trim Lab dip Form

Bulk Trim Submit Form

Garment Tag Reference

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Fabric Detail Sheet - Woven

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Fabric Detail Sheet - Knits

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Yarn detail sheet-Sweater

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Trim Detail Sheet

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Print Submit Form

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Line Presentation Sample Yardage Submit Form-Sweater

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Line Presentation Sample Yardage woven/knit Form

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Lab Dip Submission Form

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First Bulk Lot Submit Form

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Production/Agent Office: Submit Date:

Supplier/Vendor Name: Final Lab Dip Approval Date:

Contact Information: Fabric Quality:

Season/Division: Sweaters Only:Catalog Only: Yarn for solid sweater

Style Number: Catalog and Store: Yarn for novelty sweater

Units Ordered:

submit: submit:

submit: Color Name COMMENTS: Color NumbApproved:Rejected:Date:

Trim Labdip Submit Form

style sketch:

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Production/Agent Office: Submit Date:

Supplier/Vendor Name: Final Bulk Lot Approval Date:

Contact Information: Fabric Quality:Trim Quality:

Season/Division: Sweaters Only:Catalog Only: Yarn for solid sweater

Style Number: Catalog and Store: Yarn for novelty sweater

Units Ordered:

Bulk Fabric/Print Approval Ref

Color Name: COMMENTS:Color Number: Approved:Rejected:Date:

Bulk Trim Submit Form

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Front

TALBOTS

SAMPLE NOT FOR SALE

Sample Status:

Size:

Date Sent:

Office / Fty:

C/O:

Season / Year:

Style #:

Fiber Content:

GG/Ends / Fab Wt:

Fab/Yarn ART#:

Mill:

Print/ Stripe Name:

Color:

Fabric Comment:

Garment Tag – Front/Back

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Back

STYLE# :

TRIM INFO ACTUAL AVAILABLE

MAIN LABEL

CARE LABEL

THREAD

1. PTTN:

2. TRIM

3. ADDITIONAL COMMENTS: