Characteristics of Normal and Damaged HairTexture This is the size or diameter of a single hair.

Course Hair Medium Hair Fine Hair

Porosity : The ability of the hair to absorb moisture This is related to the condition of the hair and whether it has been chemicallytreated (permed or coloured). Porosity is all about the condition of the cuticle, which is the outside layer of the hair.

Resistant -The cuticle layer is tightly closed. The hair looks shiny or glassy. The hair is in good condition Normal -The cuticle is slightly open.

Porous -The cuticle is more open. The hair is a bit dull looking, and feels slightly rough. The ends are dry possibly because of tinting, or a lot of exposure to sun and swimming. Extremely Porous -The cuticle is very open and damaged. The hair is very dull and dry. Usually this hair is double processed. Eg: has had both a perm and tint. Or the hair is bleached.

FACTORS AFFECTING HAIR COLOUR

MelaninMelanin is the colour pigment granules of skin and hair. Melanin is produced by special cells where the germinal matrix joins the papilla called melanocytes.

MELANINNATURAL COLOUR PIGMENTS

Melanocytes Melanocytes secrete melanin into cells of the hair shaft soon after they are formed to give hair its colour.

GERMINAL MATRIX

Factors affecting Hair ColourType of Melanin

Amount of Melanin

Position of Melanin

Heredity

Types of MelaninThere are two types of melanin found in the hair:Eumelanin (black & brown)Pheomelanin (red& yellow)

EUMELANIN & PHEOMELANIN

Factors affecting Natural PigmentHereditary The colour of our hair is influenced by our genetic background and racial backgrounds.

BLOND HAIRMainly YELLOW pigmentsSmall amount of brownTiny amount red & black

RED HAIRMainly RED & YELLOW pigmentsFewer brown & black

DARK BROWN HAIRContains more pigmentEqual mix of all types

Absence of Pigment in Skin and HairCanitiesIs the result of a breakdown in normal pigment production in the melanocytes. Canities is hair that contains no pigment ( white hair) the melanocytes at the base of the follicle stop producing melanin.

AlbinismTends to appear in certain families. Albinos have no pigment in their hair, skin and eyes, and because of this have a low tolerance to sunlight.

WHITE HAIRCANITIES- melanocytes cease productionnatural agingALBINISM complete lack of pigment

Factors affecting CHEMICAL REFORMATION

Alkaline Perm Solutions

Ammonium Thioglycollate (alkaline solution)Ammonium HydroxideSwells and softens the hairOpens the cuticle

+Thioglycollic Acid

Penetrates into cortex and breaks the bonds that hold the hair in its original position.

Alkaline solutions are suitable for:

Resistant/hard to wave hair

Chemically untreated hair

Tinted or mildly porous hair

Acid perm solutions

The active ingredient in acid perms is glyceryl monothioglycolate

PH 6.9-7.2

Glycerol monothioglycolate (acid perm solution)Thioglycollic acidPenetrates into cortex and breaks the bonds that hold the hair in its original position.+Glycerine

ACID SOLUTIONS ARE SUITABLE FOR:

Sensitised or damaged hair

All hair textures particularly fine hair