Cooking SaucesCooking sauces are the essence of gourmet cooking. All the great chefs are knownfirst and foremost for their wonderful sauces. And the great thing is, anyone, even me (andyou), can easily create a great sauce.

Yes, I said, "create". Beyond all the wonderful recipes below, and others available all overthe web and in so many cook books, once one gets the hang of what's going on withcooking sauces, she can start to fiddle with them and create her own, improved versions.There is no limit to the possibilities!

Cooking sauces are comprised of a liquid, plus thickening agents, plus seasonings. Agood cook will need to be able to do the following:

Make good stocks.

Use thickening agents properly to achieve the desired texture, flavor, and appearance.

Use seasonings properly.

Classic sauces are divided into two groups: mother or leading, and small or compound.The five mother sauces are Bechamel, Veloute, Espagnole (brown), Tomato andHollandaise. Except for hollandaise, these are rarely served as is; more often they areused to create the many small cooking sauces.

The Bechamel FamilyBechamel (bay-shah-mell) is the easiest "mother sauce" to prepare. It is made bythickening scalded milk with a white roux and adding seasonings. It is rich and creamy withabsolutely no hint of graininess. It should be the color of heavy cream and have a deepluster. It should be thick enough to coat foods lightly.

Bechamel Recipe*Onion Piquet, 1

*Milk, 1/2 gal.

*Flour, 4 oz.

*Clarified butter, 4 fl. oz.

*Salt and white pepper, TT

*Nutmeg, TT

Yield: 1/2 gal.

Small Bechamel Cooking Sauces

Cream Sauce - Add to bechamel 4-6 oz. of scalded cream and a few drops of lemon juice.

Cheese - Add to bechamel 4 oz. grated Cheddar or American cheese, a dash ofWorcestershire sauce and 1/2 tablespoon of dry mustard.

Mornay - Add to bechamel 2 oz. grated Gruyere and 1/2 oz. grated Parmesan. Thin withscalded cream. Remove the sauce from heat and swirl in 1 oz. whole butter.

Nantua - Add to bechamel 2 fluid oz. heavy cream and 3 oz. crayfish butter. Add paprika toachieve the desired color.

Soubise - Sweat 1/2 pound diced onion in 1 ounce whole butter without browning. Addbechamel and simmer until the onion are cooked and then strain.

The Veloute FamilyVeloute (veh-loo-TAY) cooking sauces are made by thickening a white stock or fishstock with roux. A veloute sauce made from veal or chicken stock is usually used to makeone of two sauces, allemande and supreme. Allemande sauce is made by adding lemonjuice and a liaison to a veal or chicken veloute. Supreme sauce is made by adding creamto a chicken veloute. A properly made veloute should be rich, smooth and lump-free.

Veloute Recipe*Clarified Butter, 4 fl. oz.

*Flour, 4 oz.

*Chicken, veal, 2 1/2 qts. or fish stock

*Salt and white pepper, TT

Heat the butter in a heavy saucepan. Add the flour and cook to make a blond roux.

Gradually add the stock to the roux stirring with a whisk. Bring to a boil and simmer.

Simmer and reduce to 1/2 gallon, approximately 30 minutes.

Strain through a china cap lined with cheesecloth.

Melted butter may be ladled over the surface of the sauce to prevent a skin fromforming. Hold or cool in a water bath.

Yield: 1/2 gal.

Small Fish Veloute Cooking Sauces

Bercy - Saute 1 oz. of finely diced shallots in butter. Add 4 oz. of dry white wine and 4 oz.fish stock. Reduce the mixture and add the fish veloute.

Cardinal - Add 4 oz. fish stock to 2 cups fish veloute. Reduce the mixture by half and add1/2 pint heavy cream and a dash of cayenne pepper. Bring to a boil and swirl in 1 oz.lobster butter.

Normandy - Add 2 oz. mushroom trimmings and 2 oz. fish stock to 2 cups fish veloute.

Reduce by one third and finish with an egg yolk and cream liaison. Strain through a finechinois.

Espagnole (Brown Sauce)Espagnole is made from a brown stock to which brown roux, mirepoix and tomato pureehave been added.

Espagnole Recipe*Mirepoix, med. dice, 1 lb.

*Clarified butter, 4 fl. oz.

*Flour, 4 oz.

*Brown stock, 2 1/2 qts.

*Tomato puree, 4 oz.

*Sachet (ingredients tied in a cheesecloth bag):

Bay Leaf, 1

Dried thyme, 1/4 tsp.

Peppercorns,crushed, 1/8 tsp.

Parsley stems, 4

Salt and pepper, TT

Yield: 1/2 gal.

Saute the mirepoix in butter.

Add the flour and cook to make a brown roux.

Add the brown stock and tomato puree. Stir to break up lumps. Bring to boil then reduceto simmer.

Add the sachet.

Simmer for 1 hour so the sauce can reduce. Skim the surface as needed.

Strain the sauce through a china cap.

Demi-GlaceEspagnole sauce can be made into demi-glace, which is used to make the small cookingsauces of the espagnole family. Demi-glace is half brown sauce, half brown stock, reducedby half. A properly made demi-glace is rich, smooth and lump-free. It should be thickenough to cling to foods.

Demi-Glace Recipe*Brown Stock 2 cups

*Brown Sauce 2 cups

Combine the stock and sauce in a saucepan over medium heat.

Simmer until the mixture is reduced by half.

Strain and cool in a water bath.

Yield: 1/2 gal.

Jus LieJus lie is used like a demi-glace but is lighter and easier to use. It is made in one of twoways:

A rich brown stock is thickened with cornstarch or arrowroot and seasoned.

A rich brown stock is simmered and reduced so that it thickens naturally.

A properly made jus lie is very rich and smooth. It is not as thick as demi-glace, but shouldstill cling to foods.

Small Brown Cooking SaucesBordelaise - Combine 1 cup dry red wine, 1 oz. chopped shallots, 1 bay leaf, 1 sprigthyme and a pinch of black pepper in a saucepan. Reduce by 3/4, then add demi-glace andsimmer for 15 minutes. Strain through a fine chinois. Finish with 1 oz. whole butter.

Chasseur - Saute 2 oz. sliced mushrooms and 1/2 tablespoon diced shallots in wholebutter. Add 4 fl. oz. white wine and reduce by 3/4. Then add demi-glace and 3 oz. dicedtomatoes: simmer for 5 minutes. Do not strain.

Chateaubriand - Combine 1 cup dry white wine and 1 oz. diced shallots. Reduce themixture by 2/3. Add demi-glace and reduce by half. Season to taste with lemon juice andcayenne pepper. Do not strain. Swirl in 2 oz. whole butter to finish.

Chevreuil - Prepare a poivrade cooking sauce, but add 3 oz. bacon or game trimmings tothe mirepoix. Finish with 2 fl. oz. red wine and a dash of cayenne pepper.

Madeira or Port - Bring demi-glace to a boil, reduce slightly. Then add 2 fl. oz. madeirawine or ruby port.

Marchand De Vin - Reduce 4 fl. oz. dry red wine and 1 oz. diced shallots by 2/3. Then adddemi-glace, simmer and strain.

Mushroom - Blanch 4 oz. of mushroom caps in 8 fluid oz. boiling water seasoned with saltand lemon juice. Drain the mushrooms, saving the liquid. Reduce this liquid to 2tablespoons and add it to the demi-glace. Just before serving, stir in 1 oz. whole butter andthe mushroom caps.

Periqueux - Add finely diced truffles to Madeira sauce. Perigourdine sauce is the same,except that the truffles are cut into thick slices.

Piquant - Combine 1/2 oz. shallots, 2 oz. white wine and 2 oz. white wine vinegar. Reducethe mixture by two-thirds. Then add demi-glace and simmer for 10 minutes. Add 1 oz.diced cornichons, 1/2 tablespoon fresh tarragon, 1/2 tablespoon fresh parsley and 1/2tablespoon fresh chervil. Do not strain.

Poivrade - Sweat 6 oz. mirepoix in 2 tablespoons oil. Add 1 bay leaf, 1 sprig thyme and 4parsley stems. Then add 1/2 pint vinegar and 2 oz. white wine. Reduce by half, add demi-glace and simmer for 40 minutes. Then add 10 crushed peppercorns and simmer for 5more minutes. Strain through a fine chinois and finish with up to 1 oz. whole butter.

Robert - Saute 4 oz. chopped onion in 1 oz. whole butter. Add 4 oz. dry white wine andreduce by two-thirds. Add demi-glace and simmer for 10 minutes. Strain and then add 1teaspoon prepared Dijon mustard and 1/2 tablespoon granulated sugar.

The Tomato Sauce FamilyClassic tomato sauce is made from tomatoes, vegetables, seasonings, and white stock andthickened with a blond or brown roux. A gastrique is caramelized sugar deglazed withvinegar. It is sometimes used to flavor tomato cooking sauces and to reduce the acidity inthem. Tomato sauce texture should be grainier than other cooking sauces but still smooth.

Tomato Sauce Recipe*Salt pork, small dice, 2 oz.

*Mirepoix, 12 oz.

*Tomato, fresh or canned, 1 1/2 qts.

*Tomato puree, 1 qt.

*Sachet (ingredients tied in a cheesecloth bag):

Dried thyme, 1/2 tsp.

Bay leaves, 2

Garlic cloves, 2

Parsley stems, 5

Peppercorns, crushed, 1/4 tsp.

*Salt, 3/4 oz.

*Granulated sugar, 1/2 oz.

*White stock, 1 1/2 qt.

*Pork bones, 1 lb.

Yield: 1/2 gal.

Render the salt pork over medium heat.

Add the mirepoix and saute, but do not brown.

Add the tomatoes and tomato puree, sachet, salt and sugar.

Add the white stock and bones.

Simmer slowly for 1/2 to 2 hours or until the desired consistency has been reached.

Remove the bones and sachet, and pass the sauce through a food mill.

Cool in a water bath and refrigerate.

Small Tomato Cooking Sauces

Creole - Saute 3 oz. finely diced onion, 2 oz. thinly sliced celery and 1/2 teaspoon garlic in1 oz. oil. Add tomato sauce, a bay leaf and a pinch of thyme; simmer for 15 minutes. Thenadd 2 oz. finely diced green pepper and a dash of hot pepper sauce; simmer for 15minutes longer. Remove the bay leaf.

Spanish - Prepare creole sauce as directed, adding 2 oz. sliced mushrooms to thesauteed onions. Garnish with sliced black or green olives.

The Hollandaise FamilyHollandaise and the small cooking sauces derived from it are emulsified sauces.Emulsification is the process by which generally unmixable liquids, such as oil and water,are forced into a uniform distribution. A properly made hollandaise is smooth, buttery, palelemon-yellow-colored and very rich.

Hollandaise Recipe*White peppercorns, crushed, 1/4 tsp.

*White wine vinegar, 3 fl. oz.

*Water, 2 fl. oz.

*Egg Yolks, 5

*Lemon Juice, 1 1/4 oz.

*Clarified butter, warm, 2 cups

*Salt and white pepper, TT

*Cayenne pepper, TT

Yield: 3/4 qt.

Combine the peppercorns, vinegar and water in a small saucepan and reduce by one-

half.

Place the egg yolks in a stainless steel bowl. Strain the vinegar and pepper reductionthrough a chinois, into the yolks.

Place the bowl over a double boiler, whipping the mixture continuously with a wire whip.As the yolks cook, the mixture will thicken. When the mixture is thick enough toleave a trail across the surface when the whip is drawn away, remove the bowl fromthe double boiler. Do not overcook the egg yolks.

Whip in 1/2 fl. oz. lemon juice to stop the yolks from cooking.

Begin to add the warm clarified butter to the egg yolk mixture a drop at a time, whilewhipping the mixture to form an emulsion. Once the emulsion is started, the buttermay be added more quickly. Continue until all the butter is added.

Whip in the remaining lemon juice. Adjust the seasonings with salt, white pepper andcayenne pepper.

Strain the sauce.

Small Hollandaise Sauce

Bearnaise - (bair-NAYZ) Combine 1 oz. chopped shallots, 2 1/2 tablespoons choppedfresh tarragon, 1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh chervil and 1/2 teaspoon crushedpeppercorns with 4 oz. white wine vinegar. Reduce to 2 oz. Add this reduction to the eggyolks and proceed with the hollandaise recipe. strain the finished sauce and season totaste with salt and cayenne pepper.

Food Thickening AgentsI've decided to devote a separate page to food thickening agents. Why? Well, as notedelsewhere in my website, attaining a certain expertise with sauce making is a big partof becoming a gourmet cook. And one cannot achieve this without a good understandingof the various food thickening agents used to finish the many varieties of sauces.

One of the most common methods for thickening sauces is through thegelatinization of starches. Gelatinization is the process by which starch granules absorbmoisture when placed in a liquid and heated. As the moisture is absorbed, the productthickens. Starches used to thicken sauces are cornstarch, flour, and arrowroot.

Here are the most common food thickening agents:

RouxRoux is used to thicken sauces. It is a combination of flour and fat, cooked together toform a paste.

The three types of roux are:

White roux should be removed from the heat as soon as it develops a frothy, bubblyappearance. It is used in white sauces where little or no color is desired.

Blond roux is cooked a little longer than white roux. It should take on a little color. It isused in ivory-colored sauces.

Brown roux is cooked until it develops a darker color. Brown roux is used in brownsauces. More brown roux is required to thicken a given quantity of liquid.

Procedure for Preparing Roux

Use a heavy saucepan to prevent scorching. Heat the butter or other fat.

Add all the flour and stir to form a paste. It is best to use cake or pastry flour because itcontains a higher percentage of starch.

Cook the paste over medium heat until the desired color is achieved. To avoid burning,stir the roux often. A good roux will be stiff and will not pour well.

Incorporating Roux Into a Liquid

Cold stock can be added to the hot roux while stirring with a whisk.

Or you can add room-temperature roux to a hot stock while stirring with a whisk.

After the roux is incorporated into the liquid, cook the mixture for 20 minutes to removeany flour taste.

Guidelines for Using Roux

Do not use aluminum pots so that the sauce doesn't turn gray because of the scrapingaction.

Use heavy pots to prevent sauces from scorching or burning.

Avoid extreme temperatures. Roux should not be too hot or too cold.

Avoid overthickening.

CornstarchCornstarch, a natural food thickening agent, is a very fine white powder, a pure starchderived from corn. Liquids thickened with cornstarch have a glossy sheen. Productsthickened with cornstarch should not be reheated.

Incorporating Cornstarch

Cornstarch must be mixed with a cool liquid before it is introduced into a hot one. Asolution of a starch and a cool liquid is called a slurry. It may be added to a hot or coldliquid. It must be stirred continuously if added to a hot liquid.

ArrowrootArrowroot is a food thickening agent that is similar to cornstarch because of its appearance

and thickening power. It is derived from the roots of several tropical plants. It producesa clearer finished product and it is more expensive than cornstarch.

Buerre ManieBeurre manie (burr mahn-yay) is a food thickening agent combining flour and soft,whole butter. The flour and butter are kneaded together until smooth. The mixture is thenformed into pea-sized balls and whisked into a simmering sauce. It is used for quickthickening at the end of the cooking process.

LiaisonAnother food thickening agent known as a liaison is a mixture of egg yolks and heavycream. It adds smoothness with minimal thickening. The egg yolks could curdle in thesauce so special care should be taken.

Procedure for Using a Liaison

Whisk together one part egg yolk and three parts whipping cream.

Temper the egg yolk and cream mixture by adding a small amount of the hot liquidwhile stirring.

Add the warmed liaison to the remaining hot liquid. Plain egg yolks coagulate attemperatures between 149 and 158 degrees F.

Sauce FinishingBeing familiar with the sauce finishing methods you should apply when making asauce is crucial. It really isn't all that complicated - there are only three basic techniques -but you need to be aware of them and what each one does.

ReductionMoisture is released in the form of steam when sauces cook. As steam escapes, saucesthicken and strengthen flavors. This is known as reduction.

StrainingSmoothness is important in the finishing of sauces. They can be strained through a chinacap or a fine mesh chinois. Straining removes any unwanted ingredients and lumpsfrom thickeners as well.

Monter Au BeurreMonter au beurre (mohn-tay ah burr) is whisking whole butter into a sauce to give it shine,richness, and flavor.

Favorite Gourmet SaucesAs you grow as a gourmet cook, you will find yourself developing a list of your favoritegourmet sauces. Every now and then we all run across or invent a sauce that turnsout be especially yummy and versatile. These will become a major part of your cookingarsenal.

Below are a few of my favorite gourmet sauces. I kind of hate to share them, but thenagain, that's what my website is supposed to be all about. I want to help you learn to cookgourmet, and if that means giving up a secret or two, so be it.

Sweet SaucesKahlua Sauce(Wonderful over cake or bread pudding)

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

¾ cup confectioners' sugar, sifted

¼ cup Kahlua

2 large egg yolks

½ cup heavy cream

Melt butter in a 3-quart heavy saucepan over medium heat. When butter is almostcompletely melted, gradually whisk in confectioners' sugar. Add Kahlua and stir.

Remove pan from the heat and add egg yolks, one at a time, whisking constantly. Addheavy cream and stir to combine. Return pan to medium heat and cook, stirring constantlywith a slotted wooden spoon, until sauce thickens slightly, about 5 minutes. Don't increasetemperature, or eggs will scramble. When you drag your finger along the back of a woodenspoon, the track of your finger should remain intact in the sauce. This stage of doneness ina sauce is called a nape, which describes the viscosity at which a sauce will nap foodwithout sliding off.

Place pan of sauce on a rack and stir occasionally until it cools from hot to warm. Saucewill thicken as it cools. To hasten thickening, place pan of sauce in a bowl filled with icewater so the ice water level comes up to 2/3 the height of the pan. Stir constantly untildesired temperature and consistently are reached. Serve sauce warm.

Basic Caramel Sauce1 cup light brown sugar

2/3 c whipping cream

½ cup unsalted butter

1 – 1 ½ tsp. vanilla

Combine all the ingredients in a medium size saucepan. Cook until sugar has dissolvedand mixture is smooth and creamy. Keep warm to serve, or transfer to squeeze bottle todrizzle over desserts.

Rich Custard Sauce3 cups heavy cream

8 egg yolks

½ cup sugar

1 T. vanilla

Place the cream and sugar into a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Meanwhile, whisk theegg yolks in a small bowl gently and set aside. Once the cream has come to a boil, temperin the egg yolks, remove from heat and strain. Add the vanilla and cool completely. Coverand refrigerate until needed.

Chocolate Sauce¾ cup half and half

1 tablespoon salted butter

½ pound semisweet chocolate chips (1 1/3 cups)

¼ teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1 oz. amaretto

Bring the half and half, booze, vanilla and butter to a light simmer. Pour over the chocolatein a bowl, let sit for about 1 minute, then whisk until smooth. If necessary, place back ongently heat to warm, but never place over high heat. Serve warm.

Want more sauce ideas? "The Complete Book of Sauces" has over 300 saucerecipes. Poultry, meat, fish, pasta, salads, vegetables, desserts, etc.

Asian SaucesSpicy Dipping Sauce (Eggrolls)½ cup lime juice

4 tablespoons fish sauce

1 tsp. red pepper flakes

1 tsp. garlic, minced

1 tablespoon rice vinegar

½ cup carrots, shredded

5 tablespoons sugar or to taste

1 tablespoon cilantro leaves chopped.

Mix all ingredients in a bowl and set aside. Makes 1 cup

Dumpling Sauce (Potstickers)1 tablespoon light soy sauce (Kikkoman)

1 teaspoon sesame oil

2 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon vinegar

Some diced green onion

Some minced garlic

Hot chili sauce (if desired)

Mix all ingredients in a bowl.

Meat SaucesJalapeno Cream Sauce (Great for Quail)1 chopped fresh jalapeno (seeds removed)

1 clove chopped garlic

½ ounce butter

½ cup heavy cream

Salt and pepper to taste

Saute jalapeno and garlic in butter. Add cream and seasonings, then reduce to a thicksauce consistency.

Raspberry Sauce (Pork Tenderloin)3 cups fresh raspberries

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint

Pinch of cayenne pepper

1 tablespoon olive oil

¼ cup sugar

Pinch of salt

Puree 1 cup of raspberries. Stir in remaining ingredients with a wooden spoon, crushingsome of the berries. Refrigerate overnight. Serve at room temperature.

Parsley Sauce with Cornichons and Capers (Beef Tenderloin)¾ cup minced fresh parsley leaves

12 cornichons minced plus one teaspoon of juice

¼ cup drained capers, chopped coarse

2 medium scallions, white and light green parts – minced

Pinch of salt

¼ teaspoon of ground black pepper

½ cups extra virgin olive oil

Mix all ingredients together in a medium bowl. Cover and set aside at room temperature.

Gorgonzola Sauce (Wonderful with steak)4 cups heavy cream

3 to 4 ounces crumbly Gorgonzola (not creamy)

3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan

¾ teaspoon kosher salt

¾ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons minced fresh parsley

Bring the heavy cream to a full boil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, thencontinue to boil rapidly for 45 to 50 minutes, until thickened like a white sauce, stirringoccasionally. Off the heat add the Gorgonzola, Parmesan, salt, pepper, and parsley. Whiskrapidly until the cheeses melt and serve warm. If you must reheat, warm the sauce overlow heat until melted, then whisk vigorously until the sauce comes together.

Bernaise (Steak)¼ cup Champagne vinegar

¼ cup good white wine

2 tablespoons minced shallots

3 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon leaves, divided

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

3 extra-large egg yolks

½ pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted

Put the Champagne vinegar, white wine, shallots, 1 tablespoon tarragon leaves, ¼teaspoon salt, and /4 teaspoon pepper in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil and simmerover medium heat for about 5 minutes, until the mixture is reduced to a few tablespoons.Cool slightly. Place the cooled mixture with the egg yolks and 1 teaspoon salt in the jar of ablender and blend for 30 seconds. With blender on, slowly pour the hot butter through theopening in the lid. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of tarragon leaves and blend only for asecond. If the sauce is too thick, add a tablespoon of white wine to thin. Keep at roomtemperature until serving.

Creole Sauce (Beef or Quail Raviolis, Crawfish Enchiladas)1 yellow onion

1 red bell pepper

1 green bell pepper

½ jalapeno

1 small rib of celery

½ carrot

1 tablespoon garlic

2 cups chicken stock

2 cups diced canned tomatoes

3 tsp. creole seasoning

Roux (2 oz. butter and 2 oz. flour cooked until dark brown)

Saute all vegetables (in a stock pot) with a little butter until soft. Add tomatoes and chickenstock and simmer for 30 minutes. Quickly whisk in roux. Puree (with stick blender) andseason to taste.

Yogurt Sauce (Serve with Lamb)32 oz. yogurt, plain

1 oz. garlic, chopped

2 cucumbers, diced fine

1 red onion, diced

2 oz. lemon juice

½ bunch chopped parsley

Salt and pepper to taste.

In a stainless steel bowl, whisk together all ingredients. Check seasoning, add if needed.Chill and serve.

Cranberry Sauce with Ginger and Orange (Turkey)1 bag (12 oz.) fresh cranberries, rinsed, stems and any bruised berries discarded

1 cup sugar

Grated zest and juice of 1 large orange (1/2 cup juice)

¾ teaspoon ground ginger

Bring cranberries, sugar, orange juice (reserve zest), and ginger to a boil over medium-high heat in a medium saucepan. Reduce heat and simmer until some of the berries startto pop, about 1 minute. Cover, turn off heat, and let stand for 10 minutes. Stir zest intosauce. Cool to room temperature, then refrigerate. Serve cold

Seafood SaucesChiptotle-Lime Crema (Salmon)1 cup sour cream

1 teaspoon pureed chipotles in adobo

1 ½ teaspoon fresh lime juice

Sea salt, to taste

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

In a small mixing bowl, mix all ingredients and chill for 1 hour before serving.

Cocktail Sauce3 cups ketchup

¼ cup horseradish

3 teaspoons lemon juice

1 ½ teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce

3 teaspoon Cajun Chef Hot Sauce (or hot sauce of your choice)

1 ½ teaspoon jalapeno pepper, finely chopped

¼ teaspoon black pepper

Add ingredients according to desired kick. Combine all ingredients; mix thoroughly and chillbefore serving. When you first make cocktail sauce, it may taste a little hot, but it willmellow the next day.

Tartar Sauce1 cup mayonnaise

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

Dash of Tabasco sauce

2 tablespoons drained sweet pickle relish

2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 tablespoons finely minced shallots

1 teaspoon drained tiny capers

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Combine the mayonnaise, mustard, lemon zest, lemon juice, Tabasco sauce, and relish ina bowl. Stir in the parsley, shallots, capers, salt, and pepper. Refrigerate, covered, for atleast 1 hour and up to 3 days before serving, for the flavors to blend. Makes 1 ¼ cup.

Remoulade Sauce2 green onions, finely chopped, include tops

2 medium garlic cloves, minced

3 tablespoons chopped, cooked spinach

¾ cup mayonnaise

1 ½ teaspoons each:

Worcestershire sauce

Whole grain mustard

Fresh squeezed lemon juice

¾ teaspoon anchovy paste

1 canned chipotle chile in adobo sauce, minced

¼ teaspoon Tabasco sauce

2 teaspoons prepared horseradish

Mix all ingredients together. Will last 1 week in refrigerator.

Miscellaneous SaucesTexas Dipping Sauce (Jalapeno Poppers)1 cup Ranch dressing

½ cup Picante sauce

½ tsp. cumin

½ tsp dried oregano

2 tablespoons minced chives

Mix ingredients in bowl. Refrigerate.

Saffron Aioli1 oz. lemon juice

Pinch saffron

1 tsp fresh chopped garlic

2 egg yolks

1 whole egg

½ tsp. dry mustard (English)

1 tsp. salt

2 cups extra virgin olive oil

Put a pinch of saffron in lemon juice and allow to sit for 10 minutes. Put lemon with saffron,garlic, yolks, whole egg, mustard, and salt in food processor and blend. While processor isrunning, slowly pour olive oil into mixture. After all olive oil has been added turn offprocessor. Chill and keep refrigerated.

Hollandaise Sauce (Blender Style)8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter

3 egg yolks

½ tsp. salt

Pinch dry or cayenne

1 tablespoon fresh squeezed lemon juice (or more to taste)

Melt butter over low heat (do not brown). Combine other ingredients in the blender and turnon the machine. Drizzle in the butter. The mixture will thicken. Taste it for seasoning. Addmore lemon or seasoning if desired. Transfer to a container and serve, or to keep warm,set container into a bowl of very hot water and stir continuously. This sauce will break if itgets too cool, so serve right away or hold as instructed for up to 20 minutes. You can alsokeep this sauce in a coffee carafe to keep warm.

Other SaucesHere are a few recipes for some of my other favorite sauces . . .

Pan GravyPan gravy is a sauce made from meat or poultry juices combined with a liquid andthickening agent; made in a pan in which the meat or poultry was cooked.

Procedure for Preparing Pan Gravy

Remove the cooked meat or poultry from the roasting pan.

If mirepoix was not added during the roasting process, add it to the pan containing thedrippings and fat.

Place the roasting pan on the stove top and clarify the fat by cooking off any remainingmoisture.

Pour off the fat, reserving it to make the roux.

Deglaze the pan using an appropriate stock.

Add enough stock or water to the deglazing liquid to yield the proper amount of finishedgravy.

Prepare the roux in a seperate pan using a portion of the reserved fat.

Add the roux to the liquid and bring the mixture to a simmer. Simmer until the mirepoixis well cooked.

Strain the gravy and adjust the seasonings.

CoulisCoulis is a sauce made from a puree of vegetables and/or fruit; may be served hot or cold.The texture is that of tomato sauce.

Procedure for Preparing a Coulis

Cook the main ingredient and any additional flavoring ingredients with an appropriateliquid.

Puree the main ingredient and flavoring ingredients in a food mill, blender or foodprocessor.

Combine the puree with the appropriate liquid and simmer to blend the flavors.

Thin and season the coulis as desired.

Recipe for Red Pepper Coulis*Vegetable Oil, 1 fl. oz.

*Garlic, chopped, 2 tsp.

*Onion, small dice, 3 oz.

*Red bell pepper, medium dice, 3 lb.

*White wine, 8 fl. oz.

*Chicken stock, 1 pt.

*Salt and pepper, TT

Yield: 1 qt.

Heat the oil and saute the garlic and onion.

Add the bell pepper and saute until tender.

Deglaze the pan with the white wine.

Add the chicken stock, bring to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes. Season with salt andpepper.

Puree in a blender or food processor and strain through a china cap.

Adjust the consistency and seasonings and hold for service.

Beurre BlancBeurre blanc and buerre rouge are emulsified butter sauces made without egg yolks. Theyare made from three main ingredients: shallots, white wine or red wine and whole butter. Agood beurre blanc and beurre rouge is rich and buttery with a neutral flavor.

Procedure for Preparing Beurre Blanc or Beurre Rouge

Use a nonaluminum pan to prevent discoloring the sauce.

Over medium heat, reduce the wine, shallots and herbs or other seasonings. Somechefs add a small amount of heavy cream at this point and reduce the mixture. Theadded cream helps stabilize the finished sauce.

Whisk in cold butter a small amount at a time.

When all the butter is added, strain.

Recipe for Beurre Blanc*White wine, 1 fl. oz.

*White wine vinegar, 4 fl. oz.

*Salt, 1 1/2 tsp.

*White pepper, 1/2 tsp.

*Shallot, minced, 3 Tbsp.

*Whole butter, 2 lb.

Yield: 1 qt.

Combine the white wine, white wine vinegar, salt, white pepper and shallot in a smallsaucepan. Reduce the mixture until approximately 2 tablespoons of liquid remain. Ifmore than 2 tablespoons of liquid are allowed to remain, the resulting sauce will betoo thin. For a thicker sauce, reduce the mixture until almost dry.

Cut the butter into pieces approximately 1 oz. in weight. Over low heat, whisk in thebutter a few pieces at a time, using the chilled butter to keep the sauce between 100degrees F and 120 degrees F.

Once all the butter has been added, remove the saucepan from the heat. Strain througha chinois.

For Beurre Rouge, substitute a dry red wine for the white wine and red wine vinegar for thewhite wine vinegar.

Compound ButtersCompound butters are made by incorporating various seasonings into softened wholebutter. Compound butters can be combined with a blender, food processor or mixer. Usingparchment paper or plastic wrap, it is then rolled into a cylinder, chilled and sliced asneeded. Most will keep for two to three days in the refrigerator, or they can be frozen.

Recipes:

Basil Butter - 1 lb. of softened, unsalted butter. Mince 2 oz. basil and 2 oz. shallots; add tothe butter with 2 teaspoons lemon juice.

Herb Butter - 1 lb. of softened, unsalted butter. Add to the butter up to 1 cup of mixedchopped fresh herbs such as parsley, dill, chives, tarragon or chervil.

Shallot Butter - 1 lb. of softened, unsalted butter. Blanch 8 ounces of peeled shallots inboiling water. Dry and finely dice them and mix with the butter.

Red Pepper Butter - 1 lb. of softened, unsalted butter. Puree 8 ounces roasted, peeledred bell peppers until liquid, then add to the butter.

Montpelier Butter - 1 lb. of softened, unsalted butter. Blanch 1 ounce parsley, 1 ounce

chervil, 1 ounce watercress and 1 ounce tarragon in boiling water. Drain thouroughly.Mince 2 hard-boiled egg yolks, 2 garlic cloves and 2 gherkin pickles. Blend everything intothe butter.

Lobster or Crayfish Butter - 1 lb. of softened, unsalted butter. Grind 8 ounces cookedlobster or crayfish meat, shells and/or coral with 1 pound butter. Place in a saucepan andclarify. Strain the butter through a fine chinois lined with cheesecloth. Refrigerate, thenremove the butterfat when firm.

Salsa and RelishSauces and relishes are cold, chunky mixtures of herbs, spices, fruits and/or vegetables.They can be used as sauces for many poultry, meat, or fish and shellfish items. Salsa andrelishes are gaining popularity because of their intense flavor and variety of textures andcolors.

Procedure for Preparing a Salsa or Relish

Cut or chop the ingredients.

Precook and chill items as directed in the recipe.

Toss all ingredients together and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

Tomato Salsa Recipe

*Tomatoes, seeded, small dice, 5

*Green onions, sliced, 1 bunch

*Garlic cloves, minced, 3

*Cilantro, chopped, 1/2 bunch

*Jalapeno, chopped fine, 3

*Lemon juice, 2 fl. oz.

*Cumin, ground, 1/2 tsp.

*Salt and pepper, TT

Combine all ingredients and gently toss. Adjust seasonings and refrigerate.

Yield: 1 qt.