chemicals used in skincare and cosmetics by: mary samimi and cassie foglia
TRANSCRIPT
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CHEMICALS USED IN SKINCARE AND COSMETICS
By: Mary Samimi and Cassie Foglia
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History of Cosmetics
Today we live in a society that puts a lot of value on how we look. Many people have been trying to find the fountain of youth for centuries but have not been able to fight the effects of aging. It is interesting to look back in time and see the evolution of cosmetic chemistry. Their have been a lot of accidental discoveries in science and we would be naive to think that cosmetics isn’t one of them.
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The Ancient Egyptians were the earliest users of cosmetics for personal, religious, and burial uses. They would keep their skin lubricated by applying fragrant oils, lotions or ointments.
The word ‘cosmetics’ comes from the greek word ‘kosmetikos’ which means skilled in decorating.Around 200A.D. Galen, a Greek physician, mixed rose water, beeswax, and olive oil together to create the first modern cosmetic compound: Cold Cream.
History of Cosmetics
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During the Elizabethan Era facial masks were all the rage and formulas for these lotions were made from ingredients such as powdered eggshell, alum, borax, ground almond, poppy seeds, milk, butter, wine, fruits, and vegetables.
History of Cosmetics
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Today the cosmetic industry has evolved and become much more complex with the use of chemicals as active ingredients. Now, cosmetics have to be tested before they can be consumed by the masses. It will be interesting to look into the future a century from now and see how much cosmetics have changed and evolved to meet the needs of 22nd century consumer.
History of Cosmetics
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Roles of Ingredients in Cosmetics
There are several terms that are commonly used to describe the role of ingredients in cosmetics and skincare products: Solvent
Large group of ingredients used to dissolve or break down other ingredients Used to degrease skin and remove sebum
Emollient Supple, wax like, lubricating, thickening agents Prevent water loss Has softening and soothing effect on the skin
Surfactant Surface active agent Degrease and emulsify oils and fat and suspends oil, allowing them to wash
away Used in most forms of cleaners Many gentle and effective on skin, some can be sensitizing, drying, and
irritating for skin if they are main ingredients in a cleanser
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Roles of Ingredients in Cosmetics
Emulsifier Ingredient that keeps unlike ingredients from separating (like oil
and water) Fragrance
Volatile and fragrant plant oils (some are synthetic oils) that add odor to products
Often skin irritants Preservatives
Substance used to prevent bacterial and microbial contamination products
Provide risk of skin irritation, however using contaminated products can have much greater impact on the skin and eyes
Anti-inflammatory Ingredients that reduce signs of inflammation, swelling,
tenderness, pain, irritation, or redness
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Arbonne vs. Clinique
For this presentation we will be comparing two cosmetics and skincare companies to see the difference in ingredients used
The companies are: Arbonne International, and Clinique
Business models and products will be examined
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Arbonne 33 year-old cosmetics, skincare, and nutrition
company Botanically based products Vegan certified All products are made based on Swiss guidelines
Over 2500 chemicals used in American cosmetics are illegal in Switzerland
Products are paraben free Parabens have been found in breast cancer tumors
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Marketing and Distribution
Arbonne sells products through network marketing Company employs independent consultants to inform
customers and sell products Products are manufactured and sent to customers
through online orders Advertising is done through catalogs, online webpage,
and by providing incentives to consultants
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Clinique 46 year old company Company sells skincare
and cosmetic products Products are
hypoallergenic, fragrance free, and created based on dermatology principles
Available in 83 countries and territories
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Marketing and Distribution Implementation of strong promotional
effort External, in-store, and website advertising
is used Promotions done through national ads,
magazines, and in-store marketing strategies
Products are purchased through upscale department sores, specialty retailers, perfumeries and pharmacies
Lesser distribution done though freestanding company stores and spas
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Cover-up
MascaraFace Cleaner
Products investigated
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Arbonne Face Cleanser extra-gentle, sulfate-free
cleanser Clinically tested for safety
and gentleness washes away makeup,
excess oil and dirt without irritating or over-drying the skin
Safe for daily use
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Clinique Liquid Facial Soap
Soft, non-drying lather cleans gently, rinses easilyProtects skin's natural moisture balance so there's no taut or dry feeling.
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IngredientsWater, Sodium Laureth SulfateSodium ChlorideCocamidopropyl HydroxysultaineLauramidopropyl BetaineSodium Cocoyl SarcosinateTea-Cocoyl GlutamateDi-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate (DMA)Aloe BarbadensisPEG120 Methyl Glucose DioleateSucroseSodium m HyaluronateCetyl Triethylmonium
Dimethicone PEG-8 SuccinateTocopheryl Ethyl Succinate Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate, Butylene GlycolChamomilla RecutitaHexylene GlycolPolyquaternium-7Laureth-2Caprylyl GlycolSodium SulfateEDTADisodium EDTASodium BenzoatePhenoxyethanol
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Comparisons Clinique contains Sodium Laureth Sulfate
This is a chemical used in cleaning products and cosmetics to cause foaming (used in shampoos)
Depending on manufacturing process it can be contaminated with ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane which are human carcinogens
Sodium Laureth Sulfate is also an eye and respiratory tract irritant
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Mascara creates the
appearance of longer-looking lashes
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Clinique High Impact Mascara
Adds volume and length
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Ingredients
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Comparisons Some overlap between ingredients Two ingredients that are found in
Clinique products that are particularly harmful are butylated hydroxytoluene (BTH) and benzyl alcohol
BHT is found to be toxic in high doses and a tumor promoter (it can mimic estrogen in the body)
Benzyl alcohol is an eye and skin irritant. It’s presence in mascara can cause redness to the eyes
BTH
Benzyl alcohol
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Cover-up multitasking10-in-1
Complexion Control botanicals soothe and
hydrate to protect skin’s moisture barrier4
lightweight coverage builds to conceal blemishes and dark spots, and minimizes the appearance of pores
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Clinique Moisture Surge CC Cream
Lightweight formula instantly colour corrects a range of complexion concerns (redness, dullness, sallowness)
Leaves a healthy-looking glow
Oil-free and contains sunscreen
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Active Ingredients
Octinoxate Octisalate Titanium Dioxide Zinc Oxide Octyldodecyl neopentanoate
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Comparisons Both companies contain skin conditioning agents.
Arbonne: Octyldodecyl myristate
Clinique: Octyldodecyl neopentanoate
Both chemicals are used as a sunscreen and have no harmful effects on humans.
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Overall Comparisons Both Clinique and Arbonne produce high quality
cosmetics and skincare producs Prices of products are quite similar Marketing and product distribution is very different for
these two companies, although both companies seem to be benefiting from their respective systems and both have been around for decades
Arbonne has very accessible ingredient lists, making it more consumer friendly. Clinique’s lists were much harder to find
Although Clinique is hypoallergenic and fragrance free it still does contain ingredients that can be harmful and cause irritation
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ReferencesDefinitions: http://www.paulaschoice.com/cosmetic-ingredient-dictionary/definition/anti-inflammatory
Arbonne: Arbonne ingredient policy:
https://www.arbonne.ca/products/index.asp http://www.arbonne.ca/company/opportunity/discover
_arbonne.asp#
Ingredients: https://thesourceca.arbonne.com/posts/591987 https://thesourceca.arbonne.com/posts/592056 https://thesourceca.arbonne.com/posts/673067 https://www.arbonne.ca/products/index.asp
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Clinique:o Marketing Plan: http://
www2.econ.univpm.it/servizi/hpp/micozzi/documenti/Clinique_Marketing_Plan.pdf
o Ingredients:o http://
cosdna.com/eng/cosmetic_fabd110186.html
o http://cosdna.com/eng/cosmetic_651516203.html
o http://cosdna.com/eng/cosmetic_372347076.html