chemistry chapter 5. matter pages 111-117 describe matter, the five elements of hair and the...

ChemistryChapter 5

MatterPages 111-117

Describe matter, the five elements of hair and the structure and behavior of atoms and bonds

1The pH Scale

Pages 118-119

Describe the pH scale and values associated with water, acids and alkalines.

2

Chemistry of CosmeticsPages 120-138

Identify the precautions necessary for various classifications of chemicals when working with professional products and cosmetics.

3

Chapter 5 Tour: Chemistry

Matter

Elements Chemical Bonds

Chemistry

Chapter 5.1Chemistry

Matter


Matter

The amount of carbon in the human body is enough to fill

about 9,000 lead pencils.

CHEMISTRY 101Solids Chemistry

Liquids

Gases Physical change

Chemical change

Elements

Organic chemistry

Inorganic chemistry

Protons

Atoms Neutrons

ElectronsMolecules


Matter

Matter

• Anything that occupies space

• Exists in 3 forms

• Definite weight, volume and shape

1. Solids

• Definite weight and volume but indefinite shape

H2

O

2. Liquids

• Definite weight but indefinite volume and shape

3. Gases

– e.g. when water freezes and becomes ice it is still water, but now it’s a solid instead of

a liquid

• Physical change– change in the physical characteristics of a

substance without creating a new substance

Matter


Matter

• Chemical change– Change in a substance that creates a new

substance with chemical characteristics different from those of the original substance

– E.g. when hydrogen combines with oxygen to form a new substance, water

Matter

Chemistry is the scientific study of matter and the physical and chemical changes of matter


Matter

1. Organic chemistry: deals with matter that is living or was alive, with carbon present

2. Inorganic chemistry: studies matter that is not alive, has never been alive and does not contain carbon

Matter

MatterBeyond the

Book

No matter its size or thickness, a piece of paper cannot be folded in half more than seven times.

http://www.hightechscience.org/funfacts.htm

http://www.hightechscience.org/funfacts.htm

• All matter is composed of elements

• There are 118 known elements

• Most important for a cosmetologist to know are carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen and sulfur

Use this acronym to remember the elements

found in hair:COHNS


Matter

Elements

(Carbon, Oxygen, Hydrogen, Nitrogen, Sulfur)

• Smallest complete unit of an element

• Composed of three main parts

1. Protons: positive electrical charge, located in the nucleus

2. Neutrons: no electrical charge, located in the nucleus

3. Electrons: negative electrical charge, located around the nucleus


Matter

ElementsAtoms

• Simplest atomic structure

• 1 proton and 1 electron

• Atomic number of 1

Hydrogen


Matter

Positive proton

Negative electron

ElementsAtoms

Hydrogen Atom (H)

The chemical behavior of atoms depends mostly on the number of electrons in the outer shell.

Two hydrogen atoms, each with

one electron

One oxygen atom and its

eight electrons

The result is H2O


Matter

• Two or more atoms joined together by a chemical bond

ElementsMolecules

Elements

With a compound, the atoms are

With an element, the atoms are the SAME

DIFFERENT


Matter

Molecules

Beyond the Book

Consider the shape and design of the atom. It has a center (nucleus), some space and then an outer layer (the electrons).

Look at all of the examples in nature that follow that design.

The earth with it’s core, mantle and crust. An egg, which has the yolk, white and shell.Cells, which have nucleus, cytoplasm and membrane.

Elements

• Compounds consisting of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen and nitrogen

• 22 common amino acids join together in chains to become proteins


Matter

Chemical BondsAmino Acids

• Form of protein called keratin

• 97% keratin protein

• 3% trace minerals

• 19 amino acids found in hair must all be present or the structure won’t be hair


Matter

Hair

Chemical BondsAmino Acids

• Polypeptide bonds (“poly” means many) connect thousands of amino acids together

• Peptide bonds (end bonds) form when the ends of amino acids join together

Peptide bonds are the “backbone” of all protein molecules


Matter

Peptide Bonds (End Bonds)

Chemical Bonds

Hair is the linking together of protein groups

• Important not to disturb peptide bonds• Combination of alkaline chemicals and heat could

break these bonds and destroy the protein structure


Matter

Peptide Bonds (End Bonds)

Chemical Bonds

• Keratin strands are linked with four side bonds– Hydrogen bond– Salt bond– Disulfide bond– van der Waal’s Forces


Matter

Side Bonds

Chemical Bonds

• Works on principle that unlike charges attract• Hydrogen atom in one molecule attracted to an

atom of another molecule with many negative electrons

• Hair has many hydrogen bonds, which are individually very weak and can easily be broken by heat or water

• 35% of hair’s strength is due to millions of hydrogen bonds in structure Chapter 5.1

ChemistryMatter

Side Bonds: Hydrogen

Chemical Bonds

• Result of attraction of unlike charges; the negative charge in one amino acid grouping attracts the positive charge in another

• Account for 35% of hair’s resistance to change


Matter

Side Bonds: Salt

Chemical Bonds

• Weakened by water, leaving the hair more pliable

• Wrapping the hair around a roller under tension and drying it results in a new shape

• New shape is only temporary because exposure to water can break the new bonds


Matter

Side Bonds: Hydrogen and Salt

Chemical Bonds

• Result of sulfur-type side chains joining with other sulfur-type side chains

• Most important bond to cosmetology• Many chemical services directly affect the

disulfide bond by either breaking it or reforming it, producing a chemical change with lasting results


Matter

Side Bonds: Disulfide

Chemical Bonds

• Based on a theory that atomic groups prefer an environment with other groups that have similar structures

• Not important for cosmetology services other than to know that it exists and plays a role in bonding protein chains

Chemical Bonds


Matter

Side Bonds: van der Waal’s Forces

Hair begins with individual atoms, the smallest unit of matter.Atoms unite by sharing electrons to become molecules of amino acidsThe ends of the amino acids bond to form peptide bondsThe amino acids create polypeptide protein chains

The protein chains bond, side-by-side, to other chains through hydrogen bonds, salt bonds, disulfide bonds, and van der Waal’s Forces

The bonding of protein chains to other protein chains makes human hair


Matter

Chemical BondsStages of Hair Formation

Chemical BondsBeyond the

Book

A single strand of hair can support a load of about 100 grams without breaking. This strength comes

primarily from the keratin protein.

http://www.pg.com

http://www.pg.com/science/haircare/hair_twh_18.htm


Matter

Matter Self-Check

1. Anything that occupies space existing as a solid, liquid or gas is termed __________.

2. All of the following are elements that form the basis of hair, nails and skin EXCEPT:

a. Sulfur

b. Helium

c. Carbon

d. Oxygen

On a sheet of paper numbered 1-8, answer the following questions.


Matter

Matter Self-Check

3. T or F

Atoms have a nucleus containing protons and electrons.

4. The chemical behavior of atoms depends mostly on the number of __________ in the outer shell.


Matter

Matter Self-Check

5. Peptide Bond

6. Hydrogen Bond

7. Salt Bond

8. Disulfide Bond

a. Negative charge in one amino acid grouping attracts the positive charge in another

b. Backbone of all protein molecules; formed when acid end of one amino acid attaches to amino end of another

c. Hydrogen atom in one molecule attracted to an atom of another molecule with many negative electrons

d. Most important bond to a stylist’s work

Matching

KNOW CHART

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

I Know: I Need to Study:

Matter Self-Check

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

As you correct your answers, evaluate your progress. Create a Know Chart with 2 columns. Place correct answers from the Self-Check under the “I Know” column. Then place incorrect answers under the “I Need to Study” column.


Matter


Matter

Matter Self-Check

1. Anything that occupies space existing as a solid, liquid or gas is termed __________.

2. All of the following are elements that form the basis of hair, nails and skin EXCEPT:a. Sulfurb. Heliumc. Carbond. Oxygen

matter

Now check your work.


Matter

Matter Self-Check

3. T or F Atoms have a nucleus containing protons and electrons.

4. The chemical behavior of atoms depends mostly on the number of __________ in the outer shell.electrons

Protons and neutrons are packed together tightly to form nucleus. Electrons move about the nucleus on orbiting paths.


Matter

Matter Self-Check

5. Peptide Bond

6. Hydrogen Bond

7. Salt Bond

8. Disulfide Bond

b. Backbone of all protein molecules; formed when acid end of one amino acid attaches to amino end of another

d. Most important bond to a stylist’s work

a. Negative charge in one amino acid grouping attracts the positive charge in another

c. Hydrogen atom in one molecule attracted to an atom of another molecule with many negative electrons


Matter

Face theFacts

Matter

Matter is defined as anything that occupies space

Elements

The five elements found in the hair are carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen and sulfur

Atoms are the smallest complete unit of an element and consist of protons, neutrons and electrons

Lessons Learned


Matter

Lessons LearnedFace theFacts

Protons and neutrons are located in the nucleus

A molecule is two or more atoms joined together by a chemical bond

Chemical Bonds

Hair is a form of protein called keratin

The peptide bond forms when two amino acids are positioned end to end causing the acid end of one to attach to the amino end of another


Matter

Chemical Bonds Hair has many hydrogen bonds which gives hair about

35% of its strength

Salt bonds are the result of the attraction of unlike charges and account for another 35% of hair’s strength

The disulfide bond is the most important to a cosmetologist’s work since many chemical services break or reform this bond into a new shape

Lessons LearnedFace theFacts


Matter

IT’S 2 U!

Draw an example of a physical change in matter; then, explain why this is a physical change.


Matter

IT’S 2 U! Answer

Cutting a piece of paper is an example of a physical change because the chemical makeup of the paper remains the same.

The pH Scale

Chemistry


The pH Scale


The pH Scale

Have you ever tested various foods to determine their pH?

Whole Wheat Bread

pH 5.5 – 5.8

Oranges

pH 3.7 – 4.3

Tomatoes

pH 4.3 – 4.9

CHEMISTRY 101pH

pH balancedAcidic

Neutral Acid balanced

Alkaline

pH number

The pH Scale

• pH (potential hydrogen) is a unit of measurement that indicates whether a substance is acidic, neutral or alkaline

• Measures the amount of acid or alkali in a water-based solution

• Only solutions containing water and/or which dissolve in water can have an acidic or alkaline nature


The pH Scale

Acidic Solution: More positive hydrogen ions than negative hydroxide ions

Neutral Solution: Equal number of positive and negative ions

Alkaline Solution: More negative hydroxide ions than positive hydrogen ions

The pH Scale


The pH Scale

• Ranges from 0 to 14 with number 7 as neutral

• Numbers less than seven indicate acid

• Numbers greater than seven indicate alkaline

• Distilled water is neutral

• Scale is logarithmic, which means each step or number increases by multiples of 10

The pH Scale


The pH Scale

• pH balanced means the pH is balanced at a certain number

• Acid balanced means pH is between 4.5 to 5.5 • Acid balanced is term applied to most professional

shampoos and conditioners

The pH Scale


The pH Scale

Beyond the Book

http://www.greatestherbsonearth.com

The pH of the body is greatly influenced by your emotions.

Joyous, happy, love-filled emotions tend to create alkaline-forming chemical reactions in the body.

Conversely, emotions which are filled with anger, fear, jealousy, hate, etc. create acidic-forming chemical reactions in the body.

The pH Scale

http://www.greatestherbsonearth.com/articles/ph_how_to_balance.htm

The pH Scale Self-Check


The pH Scale

1. The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14 with numbers less than 7 indicating alkaline.




The pH Scale

2. Distilled water has equal numbers of hydroxide ions and hydrogen ions causing it to be __________.

3. An acidic solution contains more __________ ions than __________ ions.

4. An alkaline solution contains more __________ ions than __________ ions.


Matter


5. Acidic solution

6. Alkaline solution

7. Neutral solution

a. pH value of approximately 7

b. pH values less than 7

c. pH values greater than 7

Matching


KNOW CHART

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.



1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.


Matter



The pH Scale

1. The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14 with numbers less than 7 indicating alkaline.


Numbers less than 7 indicate acid.



The pH Scale

2. Distilled water has equal numbers of hydroxide ions and hydrogen ions causing it to be __________.

3. An acidic solution contains more __________ ions than __________ ions.

4. An alkaline solution contains more __________ ions than __________ ions.

neutral

hydrogenhydroxide

hydroxidehydrogen


The pH Scale


5. Acidic solutionb. pH values less than 7

6. Alkaline solutionc. pH values greater than 7

7. Neutral solutiona. pH value of approximately 7

Lessons Learned


The pH Scale

The pH Scale pH (potential hydrogen) is a unit of measurement

that indicates whether a substance is acidic, neutral or alkaline

The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14

Numbers less than 7 on the pH scale indicate acid while numbers greater than 7 indicate alkaline

Face theFacts

Lessons Learned


The pH Scale

The pH scale is logarithmic which means each step or number increases by multiples of 10

Distilled water has a pH value close to 7

Acid balanced means the pH is in the acid range of 4.5 to 5.5

Face theFacts

IT’S 2 U!


The pH Scale

Draw an example of a chemical change in matter; then, explain why this is a chemical change.

IT’S 2 U!


The pH Scale

Burning wood is an example of a chemical change because the chemical makeup of wood is altered.

Answer

Chemistry of Cosmetics

Chemistry



Cosmetic Classification

s

Shampoos

Rinses and Conditioners

Perms

Product Information

Hair Color

Curl Reformation

Relaxers



If you slowly pour a handful of salt into a totally full glass of water it will not overflow.

In fact, the water level will go down.

CHEMISTRY 101Solutions Curl Reformation

Immiscible

Miscible

Hydrometer

Surfactants

Dimethicones

Emulsions

Amines

Hydrophilic

Lipophilic

Oxidants

Quats

Metallic Dyes

• Six general classifications categorize cosmetics used in the cosmetology industry

1. Solutions2. Suspensions3. Emulsions4. Ointments5. Soaps6. Powders

Cosmetic Classifications



• Mixtures of two or more kinds of molecules, evenly dispersed

• Solute: substance that dissolves into a liquid and forms solution

• Solvent: substance that is able to dissolve another substance

• No separation when standing

Solutions




Solutions




Water is the universal solvent because it is capable of dissolving more substances

than any other solvent.

• Mixture of two or more kinds of molecules• Separate when left standing and need to be

shaken before use• Vinegar and oil as a salad dressing preparation is

an example• Calamine lotion is an example of a product

Suspensions




• Two or more non-mixable substances united by a binder or gum-like substance

• Examples are oil-in-water (perm solution) and water-in-oil (cold creams)

• Most used in the cosmetology industry are oil-in-water

Emulsions




Liquids able to be mixed together without separating are

Liquids not able to be mixed are IMMISCIBLE

MISCIBLE

• Mixtures of organic substances and a medicinal agent

• Water generally not present• Sticks (lipstick), pastes (some eye shadows or

blush) and mucilages (thick liquids such as styling lotions)

Ointments




• Mixtures of fats and oils converted to fatty acids by heat and then purified

• Include deodorant, beauty, medicated, and antibacterial soaps

Soaps




• Equal mixtures of inorganic and organic substances that do NOT dissolve in water

• Sifted and mixed until free of coarse, gritty particles

Powders




Beyond the Book

The cochineal insect, which lives on the prickly pear cactus in the southwestern United States, is an excellent source of natural red dye. The insects are dried and ground into a powder that is cooked to release the maximum amount of color.

The powder is then used as a dye for fiber, fabric, and basketry materials. Most brands of lipstick and some kinds of fruit drinks are tinted with cochineal extract.


• Clean the scalp and hair to remove all foreign matter without adversely affecting scalp or hair

• Should be a soothing, relaxing experience• Improper or irregular cleansing allows a breeding

place for disease-causing bacteria

Shampoos



• Shampoo contains a surfactant, which is used to remove oil from the hair

• Surfactant is a two-part molecule1. Water-loving part (hydrophilic)2. Oil-loving part (lipophilic)

• Surfactant causes oil to “roll up” into droplets, which are lifted into water and washed away

Shampoos



How Shampoo Works

Oil Water

Lipophilic Hydrophilic

Water makes up 85% of the human body

• Hard water contains certain salts and metals that prevent shampoo from lathering

• Soft water contains small amounts of minerals and is preferred because it lathers freely

Shampoos



The Role of Water

• Sedimentation: undesirable substances sink to the bottom

• Filtration: undesirable substances pass through a porous substance

Shampoos



The Role of Water: Water Purification

All-purpose shampoos• Contain a low alkaline content and a low

concentration of surface active agents• Do not strip color and are very mild

Acid-balanced (non-stripping) shampoos• Formulated to have the same pH as the hair and

skin and can be used on all types of hair

Shampoos



Types of Shampoos

“Plain” shampoos• Usually strong and contain a high alkaline soap

base and are not recommended for chemically treated or damaged hair

Soapless shampoos• Lather without harsh alkaline ingredients• Effective in both soft and hard water• Rinse out easily

Shampoos



Types of Shampoos

Medicated shampoos• Designed to treat scalp and hair problems or

disorders

Clarifying shampoos• Use a higher alkalinity in order to remove residue

such as product build-up, dirt, etc

Shampoos



Types of Shampoos

Anti-dandruff shampoos• Contain an anti-fungus or germicide to

control dandruff or other conditions that could breed infections

Liquid dry shampoos• Cleanse the scalp and hair when the client is

unable to receive normal shampoo• Effective in cleaning wigs and hairpieces• Highly flammable and should be used with caution

Shampoos



Types of Shampoos

Powder dry shampoos• Formulated for clients who are bedridden• Contain orris root powder that absorbs soil and oil

as the product is brushed through the scalp and hair

Conditioning shampoos• Contain additives that can improve the tensile

strength and porosity of hair and will be removed with next shampoo

Shampoos



Types of Shampoos

Color shampoos• Contain temporary color molecules that adhere to

the outer cuticle of the hair and deposit color

Shampoos for thinning hair• Formulated as gentle shampoos, with a lighter

molecular weight that does not cause damage or weigh hair down

Shampoos



Types of Shampoos

ShampoosBeyond the

Book

Using borax or egg yolks for shampoo, most women washed their hair once a month in 1902.

COSMETIC APPEARANCE is the luster or shine of the hair

POROSITY is the amount of moisture the hair can absorb

MANAGEABILITY is how easily a comb can pass through the hair

ELASTICITY is the ability of the hair to stretch and return to its natural shape without breaking




• Affect mostly the surface of the hair

• Applied to help close the cuticle and make hair feel soft and manageable

Rinses




Vinegar and lemon (acid) rinses• Keep the cuticle compact• Dissolve soap scum and curds, untangle and

separate the hair and add sheen

Creme rinses• Soften and add luster• Slightly acidic

Medicated rinses• Control minor dandruff and scalp conditions

Rinses




• Penetrate deep into the hair to fortify damaged areas and protect from further damage from chemical services or heat

Conditioners




Instant conditioners• Coat hair shaft and restore moisture and oils• Do not penetrate cortex or replace keratin in shaft

Normalizing conditioners• Contain a vegetable protein and have an acidic

pH causing the cuticle to close after alkaline chemical service

Conditioners




Body-building conditioners• Penetrate damaged hair shaft and

deposit proteins into cortex

Moisturizing conditioners• Recommended for dry, brittle hair that has

been mechanically or chemically damaged• Humectants will penetrate into each hair

shaft to bind and hold moisture

Customized conditioners• Formulated to meet special

needs of a certain client

Conditioners




• Most derived from animal or vegetable materials, and a few come from minerals

• Amines/Quats make hair easier to comb and control static

• Dimethicones give hair softness without weighing it down

• Fatty alcohols and acids give hair a smooth feel when dry and make easier to comb; help retain moisture

Ingredients for Conditioners




Rinses and ConditionersBeyond the

Book

http://www.hot-hairstyles.com

Existing in ancient times, conditioner did not become popular until the 1950s. The ancient Egyptians created conditioners out of fats and oils.

http://www.hot-hairstyles.com/conditioner.html

• Allow stylists to chemically reform hair into a wavy or curly formation

Hair is wrapped around perm tools chosen to reflect the desired curl pattern.

Processing lotion is applied to break disulfide bonds. This softens the protein

structure and allows protein chains to assume shape of perm tool.

Rinsing removes the processing lotion. Neutralizer reforms disulfide bonds into new configuration.

Perms



Fall into two primary categories:

Perms



1.Alkaline waves (cold waves); processed without heat; pH of 8.0 - 9.5

2.Acid waves (heat waves); processed with heat; wrapped with tension; pH of 6.9 - 7.2

Alkaline waves• Main ingredients are thioglycolic acid and

ammonium hydroxide which shortens the processing time

Acid waves• Main ingredient is glyceryl monothioglycolate

Neutralizers• Main ingredient is either hydrogen peroxide,

sodium perborate or sodium bromate

Perms



PermsBeyond the

Book

In 1905, the first heat permanent waving machine was invented by Charles Nessler.

• Reduce curl in excessively curly or wavy hair by changing molecular structure

• Relaxing product is applied to hair and holds it in a straight position; smoothing action is applied to softened hair causing protein structure to relax to straighter position

• Neutralizing step reduces swelling caused by alkaline formulas; causes hair to be held in new straight configuration

Relaxers



• Two popular types of products to relax the hair

1. Sodium hydroxide

2. Ammonium thioglycolate

Relaxers



ALERT!

Sodium hydroxide and thioglycolate

are not compatible. Do not use one on

top of the other.

Beyond the Book

Sodium hydroxide is also used in producing rayon and other textiles, in making paper, in etching aluminum, in making soaps and detergents, and in a wide variety of other processes.

http://education.yahoo.com

Relaxers

http://education.yahoo.com/reference/encyclopedia/entry/sodmhydx

• Service used to loosen the texture of overly curly hair; also called a soft curl perm

• Chemical rearranger and curl booster are thioglycolate-based

• Chemical rearranger is rinsed before complete relaxation of the hair takes place

• Processing solution (curl booster) is applied and perm rods are used to achieve the new curl formation

• Extending processing time can damage the hair

Curl Reformation



Curl ReformationBeyond the

Book

Curl reformation may remove anywhere from 65 to 95 percent of the hair’s curl.

• General categories:– Nonoxidative Color– Oxidative Color– Lighteners– Developers– Vegetable, Metallic and Compound Dyes

Hair Color



Temporary Colors• Non-reactive, direct dyes that coat surface

of hair shaft• Called certified colors and are accepted by the

government for use in foods, drugs and cosmetics• Last until they are shampooed out

Hair Color



Nonoxidative Colors

Semi-permanent colors• Last through several shampoos• Able to penetrate the cuticle layer of the hair• Molecules are smaller in size and weight than

those in temporary color products• Slightly alkaline• Not mixed with oxidants and are used straight from

the bottle

Hair Color



Nonoxidative Colors

Long lasting semi-permanent colors• Use low volume peroxide to develop color

molecules and aid in color depositing• Ammonia: colorless gas with a strong odor,

composed of hydrogen and nitrogen• Only able to add color to hair

Hair Color



Oxidative Colors

Permanent hair colors• Colorless molecules combine with peroxide

resulting in colored molecules• Molecules enter hair with the aid of alkaline

substance and oxidize in the cuticle and cortex, linking together to form a permanent colored molecule

• Can lighten natural color or deposit artificial color• Removed only by chemical means or the hair

grows out and is cut off• Primary ingredient is usually

paraphenylene diamine

Hair Color



Oxidative Colors

Hair Color



Oxidative Colors

ALERT!

Because allergies to analine tints are unpredictable,

manufacturer labels prescribe a patch test to be given 24 hours before any

application.

• Lightening is also referred to as bleaching or decolorizing

• Involves oxidation of the natural melanin in the hair

• Made up of a combination of ingredients including an alkaline substance such as ammonia

Hair Color



Lighteners

1. On-the-scalp lighteners• Applied directly on the scalp• Oil lighteners use ammonia to give high lift• Cream lighteners contain conditioners, and

creamy consistency keeps them in place on the hair preventing running or dripping

2. Off-the-scalp lighteners• Contain alkaline salts and a strong oxidizing

agent that is mixed with peroxide• Stronger than the oil or cream lighteners• Lighten faster

Hair Color



Lighteners

• Hydrogen peroxide is most common developer– Most often used strength is a 20 volume solution– Hydrometer measures strength– Shelf life is usually 3 years– Store in a cool, dry place

Hair Color



Developers

Vegetable, Metallic and Compound Dyes

• Henna is an example of a vegetable dye; its repeated use coats and builds up causing hair damage

• Called progressive colors because the more these colors are used, the more color change takes place

• Pure metallic dyes are incompatible with other chemical services

Hair Color



Hair ColorBeyond the

Book

Fascinated with hair dyes, the Romans uncovered nearly 100 different formulas used to alter hair color. Ingredients ranged from leeches and charred eggs to walnut shells.

http://www.hairboutique.com

http://www.hairboutique.com/tips/tip993.htm

• Material Safety Data Sheets from manufacturer are the best source of information about a product

• Additional resources are Federal Drug Administration, United States Pharmacopeia and International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary

Product Information



• Ingredients listed on a product label are in order of their concentration with the largest amount listed first

• More than 5000 different ingredients are used by the cosmetic industry

Cosmetic Ingredients

Product Information



• Moisturizers• Preservatives• Antimicrobials• Thickeners• Solvents• Emulsifiers• Color• Haircolor• pH Adjusters

Cosmetic Ingredients

Product Information



• Three ways of testing pH in professional products: nitrazine paper, pH pencil and the pH meter

• pH range of 4.5 – 5.5 keeps hair, skin and nails closest to natural, healthy state

Salon Products and their pH Ranges

Product Information



• Possible health effects from chemicals you work with depend on amount, toxicity, length of exposure, mode of entrance to body and individual sensitivity

Health Risks

Product Information



Product InformationBeyond the

Book

You can develop an allergic reaction to an ingredient in a product that you have used for years. Therefore, producers are required to list ingredients in their products which are likely to cause allergic reactions.

www.fda.gov

http://www.fda.gov/

Chemistry of Cosmetics Self-Check



1. Surfactants are used to remove oil from the hair.





2. All-purpose shampoos

3. “Plain” shampoos

4. Medicated shampoos

5. Anti-dandruff shampoos

6. Powder dry shampoos

a. Formulated for clients who are bedridden and cannot wet their hair

b. Contain high alkaline content and are not recommended for chemically treated hair

c. Cleanse hair without correcting any special condition

d. Formulated for either a dry or oily scalp

e. Contain ingredients designed to treat scalp and hair problems or disorders

Matching




7. Which of the following rinses leaves the hair with a soft feel by adhering to the hair shaft and is only slightly acidic?a. lemonb. cremec. vinegard. medicated

8. Products that fortify damaged areas of hair and protect against further damage from chemical services or heat are called __________.




9. All of the following statements regarding perms are true EXCEPT:

a. Perms allow stylists to chemically reform hair

b. The two primary categories of perms are alkaline waves and

acid waves

c. Main chemical ingredient found in alkaline waves is glyceryl

monothioglycolate

d. Main ingredient found in most neutralizers is either hydrogen

peroxide, sodium perborate, or sodium bromate




10. Sodium hydroxide and ammonium thioglycolate are the products called __________ that reduce curl in excessively curly hair by changing its molecular structure.

11. A soft curl perm loosens the texture of overly curly hair by:a. using a low volume peroxideb. using a thioglycolate-based productc. rinsing the sodium hydroxide relaxer with disulfided. following a thioglycolic relaxer with a sodium hydroxide relaxer




12. Nonoxidative colors

13. Oxidative colors

14. Lightening

15. Developers

16. Vegetable, Metallic and Compound Dyes

a. Referred to as bleaching or decolorizing and always involves oxidation of natural melanin in the hair

b. A less professional category of hair color in which the more of these colors are used, the more color change takes place

c. Not mixed with oxidants and are used straight from the bottle

d. Mixed with an oxidant such as hydrogen peroxide

e. Most common agent is hydrogen peroxide

Matching




17. When you read a product label, the ingredients are listed in order of their __________.


KNOW CHART

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.9.10.11.12.13.14.15.16.17.



1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.9.10.11.12.13.14.15.16.17.







1. Surfactants are used to remove oil from the hair.




2. All-purpose shampoosc. Cleanse hair without correcting any special condition

3. “Plain” shampoosb. Contain high alkaline content and are not recommended for

chemically treated hair

4. Medicated shampoose. Contain ingredients designed to treat scalp and hair problems or disorders

5. Anti-dandruff shampoosd. Formulated for either a dry or oily scalp

6. Powder dry shampoosa. Formulated for clients who are bedridden and cannot wet their hair




7. Which of the following rinses leaves the hair with a soft feel by adhering to the hair shaft and is only slightly acidic?a. lemonb. cremec. vinegard. medicated

8. Products that fortify damaged areas of hair and protect against further damage from chemical services or heat are called ______________.conditioners

9. All of the following statements regarding perms are true EXCEPT:

a. Perms allow stylists to chemically reform hair

b. The two primary categories of perms are alkaline waves and

acid waves

c. Main chemical ingredient found in alkaline waves is glyceryl

monothioglycolate

d. Main ingredient found in most neutralizers is either hydrogen

peroxide, sodium perborate, or sodium bromate







10. Sodium hydroxide and ammonium thioglycolate are the products called __________ that reduce curl in excessively curly hair by changing its molecular structure.

11. A soft curl perm loosens the texture of overly curly hair by:a. using a low volume peroxideb. using a thioglycolate-based productc. rinsing the sodium hydroxide relaxer with disulfided. following a thioglycolic relaxer with a sodium hydroxide relaxer

relaxers




12.Nonoxidative colorsc. Not mixed with oxidants and are used straight from the bottle

13.Oxidative colorsd. Mixed with an oxidant such as hydrogen peroxide

14.Lighteninga. Referred to as bleaching or decolorizing and always involves oxidation of natural melanin in the hair

15.Developerse. Most common agent is hydrogen peroxide

16.Vegetable, Metallic and Compound Dyesb. A less professional category of hair color in which the more of these colors are used, the more color change takes place




17. When you read a product label, the ingredients are listed in order of their _____________.concentration

Lessons Learned



Shampoos Shampoos contain surfactants that have a water-loving

part (hydrophilic) and an oil-loving part (lipophilic) and are used to remove oil from the hair

All-purpose shampoos contain a low alkaline content and a low concentration of surface active agents

“Plain” shampoos can be used successfully on virgin hair in good condition, but are not recommended for chemically treated hair

Face theFacts

Lessons Learned

Medicated shampoos contain ingredients designed to treat scalp and hair problems or disorders

Anti-dandruff shampoos are formulated for either a dry or oily scalp and contain an anti-fungus or germicide ingredient and conditioners

Powder dry shampoos are formulated for clients who are bedridden and cannot wet their hair

Face theFacts



Lessons Learned

Rinses and Conditioners Creme rinses are creamy in appearance and adhere to

the hair shaft leaving the hair with a soft feel

Conditioners fortify damaged areas of the hair and protect it against further damage from chemical services or heat

Perms Perms fall into two categories, alkaline waves and acid

waves, and allow stylists to chemically reform hair into a wavy or curly formation

Face theFacts

Chapter 5.3

ChemistryChemistry of

Cosmetics

Lessons Learned

Relaxers A chemical relaxer reduces curl in excessively curly or

wavy hair by changing its molecular structure

Curl Reformation A soft curl perm is a service that uses thioglycolate-based

products to relax overly curly hair and then perm the hair to achieve a new curl formation

Hair Color Nonoxidative colors are not mixed with oxidants and are

used straight from the bottle

Oxidative colors are mixed with an oxidant such as hydrogen peroxide

Face theFacts



Lessons Learned

Lightening the hair is also referred to as bleaching or decolorizing and always involves oxidation of the natural melanin in the hair

Hydrogen peroxide is the most common developer used in hair coloring and in hair lightening

Product Information

When you read a product label, the ingredients are listed in the order of their concentration

Face theFacts



IT’S 2 U!



My atomic number is one and my symbol is H; I am classified as a gas. My name is _________.

My atomic number is six and my symbol is C; I am classified as a solid. My name is ________.

My atomic number is eight and my symbol is O; I am classified as a gas. My name is ________.

On a sheet of paper complete the following statements.

IT’S 2 U!



My atomic number is one and my symbol is H; I am classified as a gas. My name is _________.

My atomic number is six and my symbol is C; I am classified as a solid. My name is ________.

My atomic number is eight and my symbol is O; I am classified as a gas. My name is ________.


Hydrogen

Carbon

Oxygen

Chemistry Self-Test

Chapter 5Chemistry


1. Which of the following conditions indicates a chemical change?

a. water to ice

b. water to steam

c. oxygen and hydrogen combining to form water

d. raindrops turning to snow

Chemistry Self-Test

2. The three main parts of an atom are:

a. protons, neutrons and electrons

b. protons, elements and compounds

c. neutrons, shells and electrons

d. electrons, atoms and elements

Chapter 5Chemistry

Chemistry Self-Test

3. Amino acids that create proteins are linked together end to end by:

a. alkaline bonds

b. peptide bonds

c. side bonds

d. salt bonds

Chapter 5Chemistry

Chemistry Self-Test

4. The pH scale measurement indicates whether a substance is:

a. a liquid, solid or gas

b. organic or inorganic

c. young or old

d. acidic, neutral or alkaline

Chapter 5Chemistry

Chemistry Self-Test

5. All of the following statements regarding pH are true EXCEPT:a. pH measurement scale ranges from 0 to 14b. a solution is acidic if it has more negative

hydroxide ions

c. solutions with equal hydrogen and hydroxide ions are neutral

d. pH is a unit of measurement that indicates whether a substance is acidic, neutral or alkaline

Chapter 5Chemistry

Chemistry Self-Test

6. When a solute is dissolved in a solvent it is a(n):

a. suspension

b. emulsion

c. solution

d. ointment

Chapter 5Chemistry

Chemistry Self-Test

7. A solute mixed in a solvent that tends to separate if left standing is a(n):

a. suspension

b. emulsion

c. solution

d. ointment

Chapter 5Chemistry

Chemistry Self-Test

8. Which item is formed when two or more non-mixable substances are united with the help of a binder?

a. solution

b. powder

c. ointment

d. emulsion

Chapter 5Chemistry

Chemistry Self-Test

9. Most ingredients for conditioners are proteins derived from:

a. soft water

b. lemon rinses

c. creme rinses

d. animal or vegetable materials

Chapter 5Chemistry

Chemistry Self-Test

10. A product label has the ingredients listed in:

a. order of their concentration

b. reverse order of their concentration

c. random order

d. alphabetical order

Chapter 5Chemistry

Chemistry Self-Test

Time to check the self-test

1. c. oxygen and hydrogen combining to form water

2. a. protons, neutrons and electrons

3. b. peptide bonds

4. d. acidic, neutral or alkaline

5. b. a solution is acidic if it has more negative hydroxide ions

Chapter 5Chemistry

Chemistry Self-Test

6. c. solution

7. a. suspension

8. d. emulsion

9. d. animal or vegetable materials

10.a. order of their concentration

Chapter 5Chemistry

Chapter 5: Chemistry

A thorough understanding of the principles of chemistry helps in marketing products, making sound decision about appropriate services and

guarding the safety of your client.

chemistry chapter 5. matter pages 111-117 describe matter, the five elements of hair and the...

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