This  Month’s  Contents  

     

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Chicago  Mountaineering  Club  Since  1940  

 

Beta

Letter to the Editor – 2 CO Winter Outing – 2 State of the Union – 3

CMC Tech FAQ

Plants You Should Know – 4 Wild Garlic Mustard

Pictures and a Paragraph – 5 Feb Follies

Mountaineering – 6 Getting Started

Terms

Upcoming Events – 7 2013 Annual Dinner – 8

Pictures and a Paragraph – 9 Winter Camping Report

2013 Outing Schedule – 10 Parking Sticker Info – 10 CMC Merchandise – 10

Banff Film Fest – 11

Why We Climb – 12 Call for Authors

Western Outing – 13 Campfire Cook’n – 13

Banana Butterscotch Delight Pie

It’s Knot that Hard – 14 CMC Board – 15

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Edens 1st to Complete AMP

The CMC is proud to announce that Mike Edens is the first member to complete the Alpine Mentoring Program. Congratulations! To accomplish this Mike completed the alpine summer phase with Jim Detterline, the winter camping skills with George Naxera, and the ice-climbing phase with Dave Kenealy.

Besides the physical requirements participants are also required to

March  2013  

Chicago Mountaineering Club Since 1940

Volume  83.03    

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complete a written examination.

The prestigious AMP Patch will be presented to Mike at the annual dinner.

– Dave Kenealy

     

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Exciting news for CMC members! The Chicago location of Moosejaw is offering club members

discounts: 5% off anything Non-Moosejaw, like Black

Diamond, Petzl, etc. Moosejaw branded item are 25% off,

And anything already on sale will be an additional 10% off.

Thanks Tony!

CMC CO Winter Outing April  11  -­‐15  

 Description: Our goal is to climb the Decalibron in CO, which stands for DEmocrat, CAmeron, LIncoln and BROss. The four CO 14ers are located in the Front Range. The entire circuit route is above 12K and most of it is above 13.5K. It’s not a technical climb but it does require a high level of fitness, as this is an endurance climb. We’ll camp in the backcountry three nights. This is an opportunity to expand your winter mountaineering experience at a moderately high altitude and a chance to bag four CO 14ers. Prerequisites: Open to CMC members. Some previous winter mountaineering experience and winter gear are required. Contact: If interested or have questions, contact George Naxera at gnaxera@earthlink.net. Route Info: http://www.summitpost.org/the-decalibron/161368  

 

Editor Notes It’s Knot tha t Ha rd… well, maybe it is! In February the featured knot was a Double Bowline, which included an illustration from Knots and Ropes for Climbers by Duane Raleigh. This article received some criticism that the figure was incorrect and that it did not meet UIAA recommendations. To this point I am unable to independently find a UIAA recommendation regarding knots. (Please send me a link if this was your comment) Another member put together his own article to address his concerns and even modified the diagram to demonstrate the issues he found with the knot; see page 15. This issue has brought up two important topics: (1) this is the members’ newsletter, please send me comments, corrections, criticism, etc. related to anything you see or want to see in the newsletter, (2) if you decide to use any knowledge that is shared in this newsletter ALWAYS independently research the topic using expert sources.

I welcome corrections, but to save a few letters, let me address why I have “Devil’s Lake” but “Devils Tower.” I did do this on purpose. While researching Devils Tower once, I came across an FAQ that addressed the lack of an apostrophe in the name. Apparently, this is not uncommon in geographic naming: “Since its inception in 1890, the U.S. Board on Geographic Names has discouraged the use of the possessive form—the genitive apostrophe and the “s”. The possessive form using an “s” is allowed, but the apostrophe is almost always removed. The Board's archives contain no indication of the reason for this policy.” http://geonames.usgs.gov/domestic/faqs.htm So why Devil’s Lake? Well, apparently like all things in the English language there are exceptions to the rule. I use a very scientific method where I Google the name and find the most official looking website and see if the apostrophe is used there. I welcome any comments regarding more information on this interesting naming policy.

     

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Thank you to all of you that responded to the survey. The Board members are reviewing the comments and will respond next month as necessary. A few comments regarding paperless and the website are addressed below in a Frequently Asked Questions format.

Q1. Is the intent of the recent paperless drive to completely do away with the mail edition? A1. No. We understand that not everyone is in a position to receive items electronically. The push to go paperless was because there were over 100 members that we were mailing the newsletter to each month. While it is understood that there will be some members that need to receive item via mail, half the membership seemed excessive for 2013. Q2. I do not know my password for the website can I still get to the newsletter? A2. Yes. The website for the most part is public and anyone can access most of the items on it. This includes the newsletters, membership forms, annual dinner forms, etc. Q3. Why would I need a login and password? A3. Membership information is maintained on a database within the website. The primary need for a login and password is to change and/or look up other members’ information. Q4. I lost or never knew my login and password. What do I do? A4. Easy, just email Matt Sickler the Webmaster at: webmaster@cmcwebsite.org He will get you all setup. Q5. I do not regularly go to the website and would hate to miss even one wonderful issue of the newsletter. If I go paperless, how will I know when the new issue is out? A5. When a new issue is out you will receive an email with a link that sends you directly to the newsletter. You actually get it sooner this way and in full color. Q6. Why do you not just email the newsletter to me? I

State of the Union

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hate those extra clicks to open the newsletter. A6. Me too! But the file size is large and it would probably make my computer explode and would probably take a month to send to all you wonderful readers. Q7. I never click on links in emails. Last time I did that all my friends called me and yelled at me for sending them weird emails. What ever will I do? A7. Easy, and very wise of you. When you get the notification email, instead of clicking the link, go straight to the website and open it from there. Q8. I just love the feel and smell of paper when I read my newsletter. I hate reading it on the computer… but I want to help out the club and , who has to fold all those newsletters, label them, and stamp them. This is after putting all the content together. What do I do? A8. Just because you receive it paperless doesn’t mean you cannot print it at home (or work). Print it in color and get the best of both worlds… Oh, and thanks for your concerns about my well being. Most of last month’s paper cuts have healed. Q9. I’m still not sure if I’m ready to make this commitment, what do I do? A9. Well, it is ok. Starting with this issue, everyone is getting the notification email that the newsletter is ready. Give it a test drive and kick the tires. If and when you are ready, email me or the VP and request to go paperless. Q10. I cannot get emails, my dial-up is too slow, and I’m allergic to computers between 5pm and 8am… A10. Ok! Just ignore this, there is no intent to force people to go paperless or go completely electronic. It is important to everyone on the Board that we find ways to communicate with ALL members. The paper-based mail version will continue. Fun Fact: Multiple copies are maintained in the CMC Library and we send a paper copy to The American Alpine Club. Thanks again for your responses. If you selected paperless and did not input your name or you received this newsletter by mail, please email me and I’ll switch you over. If you missed out on the survey and want to provide any feedback about the newsletter and/or to the Board, just contact me or any other board member. Emails to each are on page 15.

     

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Plants You Should Know

By: Jamie Norris

Common Name: Wild Garlic Mustard Scientific Name: Alliaria petiolata

Wild Garlic Mustard is a biennial (two year) herb of the Brassicacea Family (as are: mustard, cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, turnips, radishes, & alyssum). Native to Europe, it was brought to the U.S. in the 1860’s as a culinary herb and has since escaped to the wild.

It is a seriously invasive plant that will completely take over an area, crowding out all native plants. It is increasingly being seen around Devil’s Lake State Park and even though you are forbidden from picking or destroying plants in the park, no one is going to complain about you pulling out this plant.

Seedlings emerge in the spring and form basal rosettes by midsummer. First year plants overwinter and stay green and continue to grow during warmer winter days. The second year, the plant sends up a stalk, flowers, sets seed, and dies. The average plant produces 400-500 seeds that readily germinate. The best control is to hand pull and then destroy the plant before it sets seed.

I think another key to its control is to teach people that it is completely edible and healthy, there are entire websites devoted to Wild Garlic Mustard recipes. I have read that it makes a good “Pesto” and look forward to trying it this summer.

We  need  you  to  contribute  to  this  Newsletter!  

   

Have you been on an adventure? Give us a brief report.

Have you read a good book or watched a video related to club

activities? Tell us about it.

Do you have an interest in a complementary skill that club

members could learn from? How-to take photos outdoors, videos of

climbers, campsite cooking, astrology, gear reviews, etc.

Do you know of an upcoming event you want to share?

Got a recipe to share?

Please consider going paperless… Get the newsletters, faster, enjoy them in their true colors, and save a tree…  

Email  me  to  make  the  change:  cmcsecretary@cmcwebsite.org  

     

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Fabulous Feb Follies By Dan Wade

Over President's Day weekend, a contingent of the CMC headed up to Ontario, Canada in search of frozen waterfalls to climb. A small group headed up earlier in the week to scope things out and practice lead skills. On Friday morning before the long weekend, Al Graber, Dave Kenealy, Mike Edens, Matt Haraburda, Jamie Norris, Jeff Brath, Jacek Witkos, Jim Considine, Steve Koellner and I met for breakfast at the motels restaurant. After an appearance by CMC's favorite Canadian climbing guide, Shaun Parent, who generously donated guidebooks and old magazines to the CMC library, the group headed to Mile

Pictures and a Paragraph 2

38 Road, east of Batchawana Bay. The group climbed "Blue Avenjure"; a multi-pitch WI3.

(See picture 1: Jim watches Mike on lead) As part of their Alpine Mentoring Program training, Al and Mike led Matt and Dave up all 3 (4?) pitches while the rest of the group top-roped multiple variations of the first pitch. On Saturday morning, Constantine and Crystal Ashford joined the group, before heading north to the Montreal River Harbor area. The group climbed Aurora Borealis, a steep WI4, and its neighbor to the right. The climb eluded the leaders so were resigned to setting a top-rope, which was an expedition in and of itself because of deep unconsolidated snow on steep terrain. (See picture 2: Jacek and Crystal race to the top). On the way back, the group stopped in at the Voyageur's Motel and Restaurant for a well-deserved meal of fresh whitefish and sweet potato fries. On Sunday, the group headed back to Mile 38 Road to climb Dutch Treat; a WI4. (See picture 3: Jamie climbs) After a team-leading effort, the top-rope went up and everyone got a chance to climb. Al and Dave continued above the first pitch for an extra challenge and fun. In the meantime, some members of the group went exploring for other ice and found a casual WI2 to practice leading and run laps. On Sunday evening the group shared stories and celebratory beers. On Monday morning the group said

its goodbyes and began the long drive back to the city. Everyone agreed that the trip had been a huge success and that they would return next year.

     

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Mountaineering

Getting Started with Mountaineering By George Naxera

Most people living here in the Midwest did not grow up going to the mountains frequently with their families and thus have little mountain experience. As members of the Chicago “Mountaineering” Club, how do we learn these skills? Several people have asked me how best to get started. Here are a few tips. 1) Decide what type of climbing you want to do. The

skills required for glacier travel are quite different than the skills required for alpine rock climbing.

2) The fastest way to learn technical skills is to take a formal training class. A basic winter mountaineering course, which covers glacier travel, costs about $200 for a day. Accredited climbing schools such as AAI or RMI offer varying levels of instruction ranging from 1 day to 2 weeks.

3) If you don’t wish to spend money on expensive climbing courses, then you could take a slower approach. Start out by climbing some relatively easy peaks and then slowly increase the difficulty level. Many peaks can be climbed in a day or by spending just 1 night camped in the wilderness. Build on your experiences and gradually increase your skill level.

4) Besides learning technical skills, you also need to learn a lot of intangible skills like; how to take care of yourself for multiple days in the mountains, eating and drinking properly, basic first aid, assessing risks, route finding, trip planning, bringing the correct gear and clothing for each trip, etc.

5) Make friends with more experienced climbers and learn from them.

6) Participate in the CMC’s Alpine Mentoring Program. (Information can be found on page 15 and the CMC website.)

7) Read, “ ”. The book is a must-read for anyone that wants to learn mountaineering skills.

It is important not to bite off more than you can chew. Mountaineering is incredibly fun and rewarding but it can also be very dangerous, especially if you don’t know what you’re doing. Many inexperienced hikers/climbers have gotten into serious trouble simply by getting lost in the mountains. Educate yourself before you venture out alone - or climb with someone who is experienced.

"B"-grade - A grading system for bouldering problems, invented by John Gill. Now largely superseded by the "V" grading system. Deadman anchor - An object buried into snow to serve as an anchor for an attached rope. One common type of such an anchor is the snow fluke. Deep Water Soloing - Free climbing an area that overhangs a deep enough body of water to allow for a safe fall. Font - The French bouldering grading system. Pressure Breathing - Forcefully exhaling to facilitate O2/CO2 exchange at altitude. Also called the "Whittaker wheeze". Sewing machine leg - The involuntary vibration of one or both legs resulting from fatigue or panic. Also known as "Scissor leg", "Elvis Presley Syndrome", or "Disco knee". Can often be remedied by bringing the heel of the offending leg down, changing the muscles used to support the weight of the climber Snow fluke - An angled aluminum plate attached to a metal cable. The fluke is buried into snow, typically used as a deadman anchor. "V"-grade - A technical grading system for bouldering problems, invented by John Sherman. X (Protection Rating) - A rating from the Yosemite Decimal System given to climbs that have very poor or no protection. These climbs often present risk of serious injury or death if a fall were to occur, even if the climb is properly protected. Wallerina - A graceful female climber who appears to dance up the climbing wall. Yosemite Decimal System - A numerical system for rating the difficulty of walks, hikes, and climbs in the United States. The rock climbing (5.x) portion of the scale is the most common climb grading system used in the US. The scale runs from 5.0 to 5.16 Z-pulley or Z-system - A particular configuration of rope, anchors, and pulleys typically used to extricate a climber after falling into a crevasse.

moun·tain·eer·ing /ˌmountnˈi(ə)riNG/

Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_climbing_terms

     

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Upcoming  Events  March 10th & 24th April 7th All dates are on Sundays.

VE opens at 10am and climb as long as people last.

Cost: $15 plus gear rental 10-visit punch cards are

available for $120.

CMC Board and General Meetings

@ Molly Malone’s - 7652 Madison

Street, Forest Park, IL  

Meetings are on second Monday of the month. Board meeting starts at 6:30

(Open to all)

General Meeting at 8:00 March - Board Meeting ONLY

Annual dinner in lieu of General Meeting April 8th May 6th

No meetings in the summer.

THE 4TH ANNUAL PHOTO CONTEST

Taking place at the 2013 Annual Dinner Submissions must be climbing, ice climbing, or

mountaineering themed. Photos previously submitted are not eligible. Photos must be taken in the last four years.

Only one high-resolution photo per member. Photos should be sent to Keith Bielat at

keithb2461@yahoo.com

All submission must be received by March 8th. NO EXCEPTIONS!

The top ten pictures, as judged by the Photo Committee, will be presented for voting at the dinner.

The highest vote getter at the dinner will  be the winner!! Get your submissions in today!!

2013 CMC Annual Dinner March 16th, 2013

The Two Brothers Roundhouse in Aurora Guest speaker is Barry Blanchard

http://www.barryblanchard.ca/  

CMC CO Winter Outing The Decalibron

April 11 -15  

Western Outing Tetons

July 15- 21st

CMC Calendar 3/8 – Photo Contest Deadline 3/10 – VE Indoors Climbing 3/11 – Board Meeting Only

3/16 – Annual Dinner 3/22 – 3/24 – Arkansas Outing

3/24 – VE Indoors Climbing 4/7 – VE Indoors Climbing

4/8 – Board and General Meeting 4/11 – 4/15 – CO Winter Outing 4/13 – 4/14 – Banff Film Festival

4/20 – 4/21 – Southern IL & Devil’s Lake Outings 5/4 – 5/5 – Devil’s Lake Outing

5/6 – Board and General Meeting 5/18 – 5/19 –Palisades and Devil’s Lake Outings

5/25 – 5/27 – Devils Tower, WY 6/1 – 6/2 – Devil’s Lake Outing

6/15 – 6/16 – Devil’s Lake Outing 6/29 – 6/30 – Devil’s Lake Outing 7/20 – 7/21 – Devil’s Lake Outing

7/15 –7/21 – Western Outing 8/3 – 8/4 – Devil’s Lake Outing

8/17 – 8/18 Old Timers/New Climbers Devil's Lake 8/31 – 9/1 – Devil’s Lake Outing 9/14 – 9/15 – Devil’s Lake Outing 9/28 – 9/29 – Devil’s Lake Outing

10/12 – 10/13 – Devil’s Lake Outing 10/26 – 10/27 – Southern IL & Devil’s Lake Outings 11/9 – 11/10 – Red River Gorge, KY and Devil’s Lake

Remember only two more General Meetings after the Annual Dinner. Upcoming programs include a

presentation on the Michigan Ice Fest.

May is also the last Newsletter until the fall. Get your contribution in today!

Want to know about an Outing, contact a Board Member and/or Join the Listserv.

     

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The Chicago Mountaineering Club (CMC) is proud to have Barry Blanchard as our guest speaker for the 2013 CMC Annual Dinner on Saturday, March 16th at The Two Brothers Roundhouse at 205 North Broadway, Aurora, IL. 60506. Barry Blanchard (born March 29, 1959 in Calgary, Alberta, Canada) is one of North America's top alpinists, noted for pushing the standards of highly technical, high-risk alpine climbing in the Canadian Rockies and the Himalayas. He first came to note in 1983 with the first ascent of Andromeda Strain on Mount Andromeda in Alberta, Canada with David Cheesmond and Tim Friesen. In 1984, he climbed the North Spur of Rakaposhi, Pakistan with Dave Cheesmond and Kevin Doyle. With David Cheesmond, he climbed the North Pillar of North Twin, Alberta in 1985. Rather than resting on his laurels, he has continued to push the limits of alpinism since, including eight trips to Asia to climb in the Himalayas and Karakoram.

Notable ascents 1983 The Andromeda Strain, Mt. Andromeda, Canada - first ascent with David Cheesmond and Tim Friesen. 1984 North Ridge of Rakaposhi, Pakistan - first alpine ascent with David Cheesmond and Kevin Doyle. 1984 East Face (V/VI 5.8 WI5) of Mount Fay, Canadian Rockies, FA with David Cheesmond and Carl Tobin. 1985 North Pillar of North Twin, Canada - first ascent with David Cheesmond 1991 North Face of Kusum Kanguru, Nepal - first ascent of route.

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1991 Blanchard-Twight on Les Droites, Mont Blanc Massif, French Alps - hard new route with Mark Twight. 1999 M-16, East Face of Howse Peak, Canada - first ascent (in winter) with Steve House and Scott Backes.

1999 Pugilist at Rest, (VI 5.10 A3 M5, 1000m), Mount Alverstone, Saint Elias Range, Canada. FA with Mark Wilford. 2000 Infinite Spur on Mount Foraker, Alaska - third ascent. 2002 Infinite Patience on the Emperor Face of Mount Robson - first ascent.

     

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STAY CONNECTED Members can join the club’s email listserv to easily communicate and plan activities. If you are club member and would like to join the listserv just send an email to:

If you already joined the listserv and just forgot exactly how to send a message, it is easy! Just send an email like you normally would to this email address:

ChicagoMountaineering@yahoogroups.com If you want to reply to a message you receive, just hit “Reply” like you normally would for any regular email.

Not yet a member? Besides asking WHY NOT? You are welcome to keep up with activity through the club’s Facebook page.

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WINTER CAMPING REPORT By George Naxera

Mike Edens, Dobri Danchev, and I went winter camping over the first weekend of February at Devil's Lake.

Logistics We met at the North Shore Visitor's Center at 9am to get our park stickers. The park does not normally allow overnight parking anywhere this time of year but they gave us special permission to park at the Boat Landing since we have the private campground. We parked at the South Shore Boat Landing and hiked to the CMC campground through the woods. Dobri and Mike took turns pulling an expedition sled with gear, just to get a feel for it.

Temperature The temperature was approximately 5°(F) overnight and about 10°(F) during the day. We spent 4-5 hours practicing the following winter skills:

Winter Camping

• We set up two tents with snow anchors

• Discussed tips and best practices for camping on snow

• We discussed winter survival tips; eating, drinking, staying dry, etc.

• We melted snow for water and made dinner

Winter Mountaineering

• Discussed how to place pickets and deadman anchors. (The snow was too soft to actually do that.)

Pictures and a Paragraph 2

• Discussed how to build a Bollard anchor • We set up a running belay • We ascended and descended a fixed rope • Discussed crevasse rescue strategies and techniques • We hung a sling and rope over a tree limb and

practiced self rescue by ascending the rope using both Prusik Cords and ascenders

• We set up a z-pulley and discussed how to safely rescue someone from a crevasse that is unconscious or injured

• We discussed how to travel on steep snow terrain • We practiced the rest

step and pressure breathing

• We practiced putting on crampons correctly

• We discussed and demonstrated how to self-arrest with an ice ax. (The snow was too soft to practice self-arrest.)

I brought along

so that we could reference techniques for the things that we could not actually practice.

     

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2013 CMC Outing Schedule

April 11 -15 Winter Outing The Decalibron

March 22 - March 24

Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, Arkansas

Apr 20 – 21 Southern IL Jackson Falls & Devil’s Lake

May 4th- 5th Devil’s Lake

May 18th- 19th Mississippi Palisades

May 25th- 27th Devils Tower, WY

June 1st - 2nd Devil’s Lake

June 15th- 16th Devil’s Lake

June 29th - 30th Devil’s Lake

July 15 - 21

Western Outing - Tetons

July 20 - 21st Devil’s Lake

Aug 3rd - 4th Devil’s Lake

Aug 17 – 18 Old Timers/New Climbers Devil's Lake

Aug 31st- Sept 1st Devil’s Lake

Sept 14th- 15th Devil’s Lake

Sept 28th- 29th Devil’s Lake

Oct 12th- 13th Devil’s Lake

Oct 26th-27th Southern IL Jackson Falls

& Devil's Lake

Nov 9th- 10th Red River Gorge, KY & Devil’s Lake

In August or September, a possible trip to the Gunk’s, New York

(I'm willing to drive and head this trip - Chris Gregory)

CMC Merchandise Contact the Sergeant-of-Arms for

Price and Availability

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forest and trail parking areas also require a sticker. Buy your sticker either when you get to the park or in advance.

WI State plates - $25 WI State plates, over 65 - $10

Out-of-State plates - $35 2nd parking sticker – half price (same household)

http://dnr.wi.gov/topic/parks/admission.html

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Wisconsin State Park – Parking Sticker

A vehicle admission sticker is required on all motor vehicles stopping in state parks and recreation areas. Some state

62 or Over? Check out the USGS Lifetime Pass for $10

A $10.00 lifetime pass that provides access to more than 2,000 recreation sites managed by five Federal agencies, with up to 100% of the proceeds being used to improve and enhance visitor recreation services. Full detail at: http://store.usgs.gov/pass/senior.html

     

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      News courtesy of Climbing magazine. Read more at http://www.climbing.com  Subscribe at climbing.com/subscribe. Explore Climbing magazine’s digital editions at climbing.com/apps.

Magazine News BOULDERING The Big Island (V15) for Nakajima���� 2/26/13 - Japanese climber Toru Nakajima has climbed The Big Island (V15) in Fontainebleau, France.

BOULDERING Schulte on Fire in France and Switzerland ���� 2/26/13 - Chris Schulte has been cranking hard this winter in Fontainebleau, France, and Ticino, Switzerland.

ROCK CLIMBING Spannuth Claims Second Ascent of Le Rêve (5.14d) ���� 2/25/13 – Ben Spannuth has made the second ascent of Le Rêve (5.14d) in Arrow Canyon, Nevada.

COMPETITION Woods, Puccio Reigning Champions at ABS 14 ���� 2/22/13 - Daniel Woods and Alex Puccio are once again victors of the ABS 14 National Championships.

ROCK CLIMBING Donini and Lowe Plan Nose-in-a-Day Attempt ��� � With a combined age of nearly 140, Jim Donini and George Lowe will attempt to climb the Nose of El Capitan in a single day in May. ROCK CLIMBING Andrea Hah: Second Aussie Woman to Climb 5.14b ���� 2/20/13 - Andrea Hah has become the second Australian woman to climb 5.14b/33 with Tiger Cat at the Elphinstone crag in her country's Blue Mountains.

The Banff Mountain Film Festival is coming to Chicago on April 13/14.

“The Banff Mountain Film Festival, a program of The Banff Centre, is the largest, and one of the most prestigious, mountain festivals in the world. Hot on the heels of the festival held every fall in Banff, Alberta, the Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour hits the road. Traveling to exotic landscapes and remote cultures, and bringing audiences up-close and personal with adrenaline-packed action sports, the 2012/2013 World Tour is an exhilarating and provocative exploration of the mountain world. From approximately 350 films entered into the annual festival, award-winning films and audience favourites are among the films chosen to travel the globe.” Portage Theatre - 4050 N. Milwaukee Ave.,

Chicago, IL 60641

Saturday 4/13 at 7pm & Sunday 4/14 at 6pm

Tickets available online: $16.52/day

(includes fees) http://www.brownpapertickets.com/event/315049 Too many films to list here. Details can be

found at:

     

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The  Chicago  Mountaineering  Club  Would  Like  to  Invite  Interested  Members  to  Explore  the  World  of  Alpine  

Climbing  Through  Its  ALPINE  MENTORING  PROGRAM  

 Purpose:   To   provide  exposure  to  alpine  climbing  for  interested  climbers  from  the   Midwest.   Open   to   all  CMC   members   who   are  rope   leaders   or   show  equivalent   interest   (the  commitment   to   the  CMC  is  a  primary  concern)  and  who  possess   the   ability   to   be   a  

group  leader,  and  can  demonstrate  self-­‐sufficiency.    Apply:  By  letter  to  the  President  of  the  CMC.  Full  details  available  on  the  CMC  website.    Expectations:  The  participant  will  be  expected  to  share  knowledge   with   other   CMC  members   and  Midwestern  climbers,  and  to  assist  in  leading  trips  (such  as  Western  Outings)   if   the   opportunity   arises.   Candidate   will   be  required   to   provide   own   gear   and   clothing,   and   to  commit  to  finishing  AMP  once  started.      Program:   The  program   is   to   have   a   certain   amount   of  structure   and   curriculum.   It   is   designed   in   two  phases,  with   a   substantial   commitment   asked   of   the   applicant  after  phase  one  and  before  moving  into  phase  two.  The  applicant   can   then   decide   if   this   is   of   serious   interest  before   moving   into   the   mountain   phase.   This  commitment   will   then   help   the   CMC   (see  ”Expectations”)   when   the   AMP   applicant   shares  knowledge   and   assists   in   leading   trips.   The   first   phase  will   consist  of  meetings  with  club  members   for  a   series  of   discussions   on   alpine   climbing,   skill   sets,  recommended   reading,   and   physical   training.   The  second   phase   (requiring   a   higher   commitment)   will  consist   of   third   party   mentoring   and   climbing   in   an  alpine   environment   in   Colorado,   primarily   the   Rocky  Mountains.   A   mountaineering   school   or   professional  guide   would   be   required   at   this   point.   This   phase   will  also   provide   exposure   to  winter   camping,   ice   climbing,  and   improvised   alpine   techniques.   At   the   end   of   the  second   phase,   the   applicant   should   be   able   to   lead   5.6  rock  and  W13  ice  comfortably  at  a  Grade  IV  level.      Final   Note:   This   is   not   an   educational   program   or  training   program.   It   is  merely   intended   to   provide   the  participant   with   exposure   to   alpine   environments   and  alpine  experiences  not  normally  afforded  to  a  climber  from  the  Midwest.      Questions:  Contact  the  CMC  President  or  an  AMP  Committee  Member.  

WHY WE CLIMB

At the February CMC meeting Allison Moran spoke to the club about a book she is working on entitled Why

We Climb

Join The Team Of Authors

The mission of "Why We Climb" is to capture the numerous reasons for which we climb in order to showcase the beauty of this pastime. The book is a collection of poems, stories, journal entries, photos, essays, song lyrics, and artwork from climbers in Illinois. All the entries seek to communicate the author's love for climbing in their own personal way. Together the unique entries create a masterpiece that opens the eyes of the reader to see climbing and passion in ways they hadn't seen before.

The climbers of Illinois are teaming up together to capture the unique reasons for which each of us climbs.

Why do you climb?

www.WhyWeClimbBook.weebly.com

     

  13  

Banana Butterscotch Delight Pie Submitted by Team DExP

1

Find a store in Baraboo that is not Wal-Mart. Select two nicely ripe

2

bananas, a box of butterscotch pudding mix, a lovely pre-made graham

3

cracker piecrust, and whatever amount of milk it says on the pudding

4

box. Back at the old campsite, one of you prepare the pudding per the

5

box directions, the other will slice the bananas and line the pie crust

6

with the slices, while the third person will find someone’s picture to

7

take (sorry had to get in a jab). Once the pudding is done, pour it into

8

the banana-lined crust and let set. If you climbed hard enough, go ahead

9

and add a nice dollop of whip cream - you deserve it!

10

Enjoy with your favorite campsite buddies.

Al Graber, Expedition Chair, is planning the next Western Outing. The 2013 Western Outing will be at The Grand Teton National Park. The dates are July 15th to the 21st, with further details still being worked out. Those interested should contact Al and start researching the area. There are currently 19 people confirmed to going on The Western Outing. A committee for the western outing has been formed: Al Graber, Mike Edens, Matt Haraburda, and Tony Rubino. The club plans a Western Outing every-other-year. The Expedition Chair is charged with planning and leading

this Outing. If you are thinking of joining the club the Western Outing makes you immediately eligible for membership.

(Instead of the typical three outing requirement)

Panoramic view from Jackson Hole Valley Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Teton_Range  

The Grand Teton National Park

     

  14  

It’s KNOT that Hard

1

CORRECTION: DOUBLE BOWLINE

The knot you have in the February 2013 CMC bulletin, p. 14, cannot be a double bowline with a Yosemite finish. After having tied it and trying to tighten all the strands the thing just doesn't seem to want to stay tight. However, a knot called the "single bowline with a Yosemite finish" is found in "Freedom of the Hills", 6th ed., p. 119, and Connally, "The Mountaineering Handbook", p. 138. Both references call this a good tie-in knot because it's easy to untie after weighting or falling on, but I still don't know why one would want a tie-in knot that's easy to untie; seems like it defeats the purpose, even though Connally gives a number of reasons for why it's supposedly superior to the traditional rewoven figure 8 and even calls it the "new school" tie-in knot. The two versions in these two references are identical, though neither is identical to the knot in the monthly bulletin. Still, one should know it if only because you may need to check your partner who uses it. And practice it on your harness, not just the "belay loop" since you're not supposed to tie in there anyway and that makes the finished knot orthogonal to the illustrations. However, if one takes the figures you give of this knot, takes the free end at Step 4 and loops it in front of the right part of the lower loop, then as shown in Step 5 through the upper loop and back parallel to the running strand so that the rope intersection in Step 5 has the running part instead of the lower loop, one arrives at what seems to be what Raleigh would call a "double bowline with a Yosemite finish". The double bowline part is the two loops in Step 1, as in Luebben, "Knots for Climbers", (c) 1993, p. 9. Even here, the text says this is not a good tie-in knot since it does loosen and some have fallen with it, while Connally admits that nobody has ever fallen on a properly tied rewoven figure 8. The Yosemite finish part is what should have happened in Step 5 by passing the

2

running end instead of under the right side of the lower loop. This also gives something that looks much more like these "single bowline with a Yosemite finish" knots except with just the one 360 instead of the two at the start.

Diagrams: February Newsletter 1-6

Jim’s Hand-drawn Corrections 4-6 From – 7th Edition

     

  15  

CMC  Board  Of  Directors  

Jamie Norris Director at

Large

Dave Kenealy Director at

Large

George Naxera President

cmcpresident

Bill Dietrich Director at

Large & Ground Chair cmcgrounds

Keith Bielat Vice – President

cmcvicepres

Justin Rich Secretary

cmcsecretary

Matt Haraburda Treasurer

cmctreasurer

Ting Sutana Sergeant-at-Arms

Randy Shaw Outings Chair

cmcoutings

Tony Rubino Programs Chair cmcprograms

Sue Gregory Publications Chair

cmcpublications @cmcwebsite.org

Al Graber Expedition

Chair cmcexpedition

Chris Gregory Safety Chair

cmcsafety

Todd Cornilsen Conservation

Chair cmcconservation

Matt Sickler Technology

Chair webmaster

Pieter Fockens Librarian Pfockens @att.net

     

  16  

 

From: Chicago Mountaineering Club c/o Justin Rich 3721 N. Kenmore Ave Apt 2 Chicago, IL 60613

TO:

ADDRESS CORRECTION REQUESTED FIRST CLASS MAIL

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