SouthIndianCoconutandCilantroChutney

In South Indian cuisine (the land of dosas and the mind-numbingly good chickenKerala),coconutisking.TheexclamationpointonthatsentenceisthisparticulargreencoconutchutneysogoodthatIamhappytoeatitonitsownoverrice.Notethatthisisa little thicker thanmost, so feel free to add a bitmorewater if youprefer a thinnerconsistency.Afoodprocessoriscriticalhere.Andmakecertainthatyoureusingonlycoconutwithoutaddedsugar.Makesabout1cup

TIME:15MINUTES

1cupsunsweetenedflakedcoconut,store-boughtorhomemade

1smallserranochile,stemremoved,seedsandmembraneleftintact

cupfreshmintleaves

cupcilantroleaves

2tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice

teaspoonkoshersalt

2tablespoonsvegetableoil

1tablespooncuminseeds

Aboutcupcoolwater

Inthebodyofafoodprocessor,combinethecoconut,chile,mint,cilantro,lemonjuice,andsaltandprocessforabout3minutes,scrapingdownthesidesasneeded,untilthemixtureisacoursepuree.

Meanwhile, in a small skillet overmediumheat, combine the oil and the cuminandtoast,stirringfrequently,untiltheseedsbecomebrownandfragrant,about3minutes.With the food processor running, stream the oil-cumin mixture into the chutney.Processtoincorporatefully,scrapingdownthesidesasneeded.

Gently stream in about cup of thewaterwith themachine running, then test thechutney for consistency. It shouldbe thickbutable to cling todipped food. If its toothick, add more water, about a tablespoon at a time, until it reaches your desiredconsistency.

Serveimmediately.Unusedportionscanberefrigeratedforupto2days.

HOWTOSHAVEFRESHCOCONUT

Unsweetenedcoconutflakesareincreasinglyavailableinhealthfoodstoresandsupermarkets;thisisaverywonderfulthingindeed,asthequalityisoftenverygood.Buttheresstillnothingliketheflavoroffreshlyshavedcoconut,andoverachieversmaywishtoroastandshavetheirown.Itallstartswithawhole,fresh,maturecoconut(notthegreenoneswiththesideshackedaway,butthebrownorbswiththeshaggyexterior).

Preheattheovento350F.Then,drainthecoconutswater.Findthenutseyes:thesmallbrowncirclesnearthetop.Withahammerandascrewornail,bangholesinto2oftheeyes(youneed2holestolettheairinsothewatercanflowoutmoreeasily).Pourthecoconutwaterdirectlyintoadrinkingglassandrefreshyourself;wieldingahammerishardwork.

Wrapthecoconuttightlyinaluminumfoilandbakefor30minutes.Whenitscoolenoughtohandle,tapitwithahammertobreaktheshell.Peeloffthefoilanduseabutterknifetoseparatethecoconutmeatfromitshardoutercasing.Shavethecoconutintothin,widestripsinafoodprocessororonamandoline.Youcanuseitrightawayoritcanbestoredinanairtightzip-topbagintherefrigeratorupto5days.

Clockwisefromtop:Peach,Coconut,andGingerChutney;OnionandCilantroChutney;andFreshTurmericandGinger

Chutney

OnionandCilantroChutney

This simple, refreshing chutney takes its flavor from a mellowed onion, but by allmeansfeelfreetoskipthestepofblanchingitifyoulikemoreofarawbite.Thelimeandthe cilantromake it bright and as pleasing to the eye as it is to your stomach. Andversatile?Uh-huh.Itssubtleseasoningmakesitequallyathomewithroastchickenandpotatoesaswithvindalooandrice.Makesabout1pint

TIME:15MINUTES

6ouncesredonion(aboutlargeonion)

cupcilantroleaves

1teaspoonkoshersalt

3tablespoonsfreshlimejuice(fromabout2limes)

1teaspoonvegetableoil

1teaspoonsgroundcumin

Bringasmallpotofwatertoaboilwhileyouslicetheonioninto-inch-thickstrips.

Blanchtheonionbyboilingitfor20seconds,thenimmediatelydrainingandrunningitundercoldwater; toss itwithyourhands tocool itdownandstop thecooking.Drainthoroughlyandtransfertoasmallmixingbowlalongwiththecilantro,salt,andlimejuice.

Inasmallskillet,combinetheoilwiththecuminandletittoast,stirringconstantly,untilitturnsmediumbrownandbecomesfragrant,about3minutes.Letitcoolslightlyandscrapecuminandoilintothebowl.

Tosscompletelyandserveimmediately.Coverandrefrigerateanyunusedportion.Thischutneywillkeepupto3days.

FreshTurmericandGingerChutney

Wow!Bam!Pop!Thispungentandspicychutneyisexplosivebyanymeasureflavor,intensity,visualvibrancy.Iamtotallyaddictedtoeatingitbythetiny,tinyspoonful.Iknowthatfreshturmericcanbedifficulttofind(inSanFrancisco,IcanusuallyfinditatbothWhole Foods and independent Asian grocery stores).Unfortunately, there is noadequatesubstitute.Butifyoucanfindit,hooray!Youcanmakethisstuff.Becareful,though. Turmeric is one of themost staining substances in the kitchen, worse thanbeets.Dontwearyourfavoriteapron,andwearingglovesorplasticbagsonyourhandswhileyouhandletherootwillpreventalotofexplaininglater.(Picturedhere.)Makesaboutcup

TIME:20MINUTES

2ouncesfreshturmeric

ouncefreshginger(abouta1-inchchunk)

2smallclovesgarlic

1smallserranochile

cupfreshlemonjuice(fromabout2lemons)

teaspoonkoshersalt

teaspoonasafetida

Peelboththeturmericandtheginger(seesidebar)andmincethemveryfine;transfertoasmallmixingbowl.Mincethegarlicandthechileandaddthemtothebowlalongwiththelemonjuice,salt,andasafetida.Mixtocombine.

Thisincrediblypungentcondimentisreadytoeatimmediately,butitisevenbetterthenextday.Coveredandrefrigerated,thischutneywilllastatleastamonth.

Turmeric

ABETTERWAYTOPEELGINGERANDTURMERIC

Sendyourcarrot-and-potatopeelerpackingforthisjob.Whenitcomestoskinningarhizome,asimpleteaspoonisfarmoreeffectiveatscrapingawaythethinskinwhilepreservingthetenderfleshbeneath.Itsalsobetterequippedtohandletheknobbynooksofarhizomesoddshape.Tryit!(Yourewelcome.)

Peach,Coconut,andGingerChutney

Ifyoudontlikeithot,thenthischutneyisforyou.Startwithripe,firmfruit;softandjuicyisgreatforeatingoutofhand,butitwillturnyourchutneytomush.Cantgetholdof peaches? Other summer stone fruit, such as nectarines or plums, can easily beswappedin.Ilovethemeetingofsaltandfruit,andforthisfruit-forwardcondimentIliketotamethesweetnesswithageneroussaltwallop.Itmaybetoomuchforyou,soadjustyourownsaline-o-meteraccordingly.(Picturedhere.)Makesabout1cups

TIME:10MINUTES

2mediumpeaches(about9ouncestotal)

cupunsweetenedflakedcoconut,store-boughtorhomemade

1to1teaspoonskoshersalt

1tablespoonmincedfreshginger

teaspoonchilepowder

teaspoondistilledwhitevinegar

Withaverysharpknife,chopthepeachesverysmall:firstinto16halfmoons,theneachhalfmooninto6to8pieceseachwithapieceofskinattached.

In a small mixing bowl, combine the peaches with the coconut, salt, ginger, chilepowder,andvinegar.Stirtocombine.

Serveandeatimmediately.Unusedportionscanberefrigeratedupto2days.

FriedOnion,GreenPepper,andRaisinChutney

Youknowincartoonswhencharactersgetawhiffofsomethingsodelicious,theireyescloseinblissandtheyfloatintheairandfollowthesmell,evenifitmeansfallingoffacliff or something?Thats how I feel about fried onionstheir alluring aromamakesthischutney irresistible tome.Andnot justme:pungentandpleasingwithoutbeingfiery, thisone isa crowdpleaserappealingeven to thosewhoswear theyabhorgreenpeppers.Itsquicktoassembleandveryflavorfulyouwillfallinlovewithitalongsidecurry(ofcourse)butalsoonaburger,inagrilledcheesesandwich,orfillinganomelet.Makes1cups

TIME:25MINUTES

cupvegetableoil

1smallyellowonion(about7ounces),diced

1teaspoonkoshersalt

teaspoongroundturmeric

1teaspoongroundcumin

teaspoongroundcinnamon

teaspoongroundfenugreek

teaspoongroundcardamom

teaspoonchilepowder

1smallgreenbellpepper(about6ounces),diced

cupraisins

Prepareandmeasureoutalltheingredientsandhavethemstandingby.

Heattheoilinaskilletovermedium-highheat,thenaddtheonionandsaltandcook,stirring constantly, until very brown, about 10 minutes. Add the turmeric, cumin,cinnamon,fenugreek,cardamom,andchilepowder.Stirfor1minute.Turnofftheheatandaddthegreenpepperandtheraisins;stirtocoatcompletely,andletsitinthepansresidualheatforanother3minutes.

Thischutneyisreadytoeat.Unusedportionscanberefrigeratedupto1week.

TomatoTamarindChutney

Thisisathinsaucefordippingyourpapadamintoordrizzlingontoyourtandoori-stylechicken;oruseitanywhereyouwouldreachforketchuporsteaksauce.Sweettomatoesandtartcorianderbringanicezingtorichlambcurry,andthepuckerofthetamarindcutsthroughtherichnessofasimpleslabofwarmedpaneer.Takecarethatthekalonjiseedsdonotovercookandbecomebitter.Makesabout1cups

TIME:20MINUTES

2redslicertomatoes(about11ouncestotal)

1teaspoonsfinegrainseasalt

1tablespoonplus1teaspoonmustardoil

1tablespooncorianderseeds

1teaspoonajwainseeds

teaspoonkalonjiseeds

3tablespoonstamarindpasteconcentrate

Wash,dry,andcoarselychopthetomatoes,andputtheminthebodyofafoodprocessoror blender. Sprinkle themwith the salt. Let them sit and release some of their juicewhileyoupreparetherestoftheingredients.

Combinetheoilwiththecorianderandajwainseedsinasmallskillet;havethekalonjiseedsmeasured out and ready to go.Heat the pan overmedium heat for 2minutes,stirring continuously; the seeds will just start to brown. Add the kalonji seeds and,stirring constantly, cook all of the spices for 1minutemore, until fragrant. Removefromheatimmediatelyandscrapetheseedsandoilintothefoodprocessorontopofthetomatoes.Addthetamarindaswell.

Blendfor4fullminutes,scrapingdownthesidesasneeded,untilthechutneybecomesasmooth,thickjuice,pourablebutabletoclingtoaspoon.

Transferthechutneytoeitheraglassorceramiccontainerwithalidorapouringbottle.This isreadytouserightaway,but itwillbeevenbetter tomorrow.Let itsitatroomtemperaturefor24hoursbeforestoring,covered,intherefrigerator,whereitwillkeepforatleastamonth.

SweetRedPepperMurabba

Attheintersectionof jamandcandiedfruit (orvegetables)livesmurabba,aPakistaniandNorthIndianpreservewithanArabicname.InIndia,murrabaiscommonlymadewithIndiangooseberries,carrots,dates,andmangos,andalsopumpkinsandpotatoes.Justaboutanythingcanbecuredinaheavysyrupspritzedwithlemonjuiceand(often)accented with cardamom, saffron, or rose water. The result is a sweet bite that,traditionally,oneofferstorefreshandnourishvisitingguests.However,inyourfridgeormine,itsalsodeliciousontopoficecream,cake,ortoast.Makesabout1cups

TIME:30MINUTES

2mediumredbellpeppers(about12ouncestotal)

cupsugar

cupwater

teaspoonkoshersalt

2tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice(fromabouthalfalemon)

teaspoongroundcardamom

Washanddrythepeppers,thencuteachlengthwiseintoeighths(discardingseedsandmembranes),theneacheighthintothirds(soyoullhave24bite-sizepiecesfromeachpepper).

Inamediumsaucepan,combinethepepperswiththesugar,water,andsalt.Bringtoaboil, covered, and then gently simmer until the pepper is tender, about 15minutes.With a slotted spoon, transfer the peppers to a canning jar or other glass or ceramiccontainerwithatight-fittinglid.Withthepotuncovered,turntheheatbackuptohigh;letthebrinereduceforabout5minutes.Turnofftheheatandaddthelemonjuiceandthecardamom.

Pourthebrineoverthetopofthepepperstocover.Screwonthelid,andletitsitatroomtemperaturefor24hoursbeforerefrigerating.Themurabbaisthenreadytoeat,butitsevenbetterafter2days.Thismurabbawillkeepintherefrigeratorforatleastamonth.

DrySesameChutney

Needacurryaccompaniment,afasthostessgift,oraquickpotluckschmear?Youcanhaveitallinabout10minutes.Whenwethinkofchutneys,weoftenoverlookaquicklyassembled,flavor-boostingseedandspicemlangelikethis.Notonlyisitdelicious,butitsshelf-stable,exoticyetapproachable,andreadytoeat.Sprinkleitonyourcurrytoaddflavoror texture,oronplainrice likeaJapanesefurikake.Betterstill: fold it intocream cheese to make crackers sing, or stir it into thick yogurt with thinly slicedcucumberandredonionforaraitayoullcrave.Makesaboutcup

TIME:10MINUTES

2tablespoonsunsweetenedflakedcoconut,homemade38orstore-bought

1tablespooncuminseeds

1teaspoonfennelseeds

1teaspoondriedchileflakes

1tablespooncorianderseeds

1teaspoonajwainseeds

cupblacksesameseed

teaspoonflakyseasalt

Measureeverythingoutandhaveitattheready,includingabowltoreceivethechutney.Thisrecipeisgoingtocookupfast!

Inamediumskilletovermediumheat,dry-toastthecoconut,stirringconstantly,for1minute. Add the cumin, fennel, chile, coriander, and ajwain and toast for 3minutesmore,continuingtostir.Everythingshouldbecomequitefragrantandlightlybrowned.

Addthesesameseedsandcook,continuingtostir,for20to30secondsmorejustuntilyouhearthefirstpop.Immediatelyturnofftheheatandtakethepanofftheburner.Continuestirringtocoolitslightly,thenstirinthesalt.

Transfer the chutney to the bowl and let it cool completely. It is ready to eatimmediately.Storeinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperature.Thischutneywilllastnearlyindefinitely,butitsflavorswillbeattheirbestfor1month.

IndianFoodandCookingResources

ATasteofIndiabyMaryS.Atwood

AnInvitationtoIndianCookingbyMadhurJaffrey

CharmaineSolomonsEncyclopediaofAsianFood(norelation!)

ColleenSen,www.colleensen.com

FoodCultureinIndiabyColleenT.Sen

IndianChutneys,Raitas,Pickles,andPreservesbyMichaelPandya