MarchFrancesco del Cossa, detail of the frescoesin the Hall of Months (Salone dei Mesi)Palazzo Schifanoia, Ferrara

Cities of Art...Simply sensational, visit after visit

MarchFrancesco del Cossa, detail of the frescoesin the Hall of Months (Salone dei Mesi)Palazzo Schifanoia, Ferrara

How does a place get to your heart? Its usually a matter of emotions, that subtle thrill you sometimes feel in a very special place. This is what Emilia Romagnas cities of art offer us they stir our emotions. Each of the 10 cities of art in our region has its own kind of magic that still lingers whether in Renaissance squares, sixteenth-century courtyards, old solitary parishes standing along lowland roads, medieval castles or unique museums.The main destinations are Piacenza, Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, Bologna, Ferrara, Ravenna, Faenza, Forl and Cesena, and Rimini. These cities and towns often dont feature on the typical tourist circuit, which makes them all the more surprising and interesting. It is no coincidence that three of the towns of Emilia Romagna have been included in Unescos World Heritage List. First up is Ravenna with eight of its historical sites and buildings, a town full of magnicent mosaics. The second town is Ferrara with its charming town center and the grand residences where the Este dukes used to hold balls and banquets (delizie). Last but not least, there is the Piazza Grande in Modena, including one of the nest Romanesque cathedrals in Europe and the Ghirlandina tower.Whats more, those destinations are so close to each other that it is easy to include many of them in a single tour. For example, Piacenza, the town of castles, is not far from Parma, the world capital of music, food and wine, that has a somewhat Parisian atmosphere about it. Or Reggio Emilia, between the River Po and the lands of Countess Matilda of Canossa. Bologna, the most renowned city in Emilia Romagna, has the longest porticoes in the world and Piazza Maggiore, one of the most spectacular squares

in Europe. Small Faenza is famous for its typical ceramics (faience, named after the town). Then theres Forl and Cesena, where every stone tells the story of the House of Malatesta. And nally Rimini, better known for its beaches, but nonetheless full of beautiful monuments dating back to the Renaissance and even Roman times. So, forget the excuses and visit Emilia Romagna. A brief art-and-culture trip is fun and easy to arrange. First of all, it can be short (one weekend is often enough); secondly, when in Italy, you can travel by car (no planes to catch) and save on travel costs. Thirdly, you will experience things you will never forget.This guide is intended for two kinds of reades: those who have never been to Emilia Romagna and want to learn more about this great open-air museum and its nest works of art; and those who are already here visiting it. In this guide you will nd useful addresses, phone numbers, information and curious facts that, we hope, will help you in choosing your destinations and getting around the region. The ten main towns are presented according to their geographical position, from north to south. The guide is about 160 pages long and contains several colour pictures, information boxes, short notes on curiosities, tourist itineraries both in and out of town. Tourist itineraries are arranged according to their focus, whether it be history, old residences and traditions (including main festivals and costume events). This is not to mention other aspects to interest the cultured tourist: local food and wine, sought-after specialities to taste, art and handicrafts, typical souvenirs and memorabilia, important local events.This guide would never have been possible without the support of Unione di Prodotto Citt dArte,

Cultura e Affari or the Udp (Union of Cities of Art, Culture and Business). It is just one of the several initiatives of our Union, that, as its name suggests, is the result of an alliance between the regions historic and art towns, with the aim of promoting cultural tours. This project has been made possible thanks to the cooperation between the public sector (represented by about 20 institutions) and approximately 40 private members, such as product-promoting clubs, groups or entrepreneurs associations. The results of our cooperation are there for everyone to see: culture-oriented tourism in Emilia Romagna has been one of the most dynamic trends on the scene of European tourism during the past few years. The main package holidays, usually including important exhibitions, or trips focusing on food and wine, can be found in the booklet enclosed with the guide or at our regularly updated website www.cittadarte.emilia-romagna.it. At Udp we believe that Emilia Romagna is the most extraordinary place in the world. And we should know because we live here! We hope that this guide will help you plan out a journey that will be a feast for your heart and soul rather than just a feast for your eyes.

Marco Macciantelli Marco Macciantelli

President of Unione di Prodotto Citt dArte, Cultura e Affari

CONTENTSPiacenza

4 Introduction Piacenza, a town of art between the River Po and the Apennines 14 Art and culture16 Handicrafts17 Food and wine19 Sightseeing in and around Piacenza20 Around Piacenza22 Museums23 Events

Parma Parma, a town of art, music, food and wine 24 Art and culture26 Handicrafts27 Food and wine29 Sightseeing in and around Parma30 Around Parma32 Museums33 Events

Reggio Emilia Reggio Emilia, home of the Italian ag 34 Art and culture36 Handicrafts37 Food and wine39 Sightseeing in and around Reggio Emilia40 Around Reggio Emilia42 Museums43 Events

Modena Modena, a town rich in culture, food, wine and prestige car-makers 44 Art and culture46 Handicrafts47 Food and wine49 Sightseeing in and around Modena50 Around Modena52 Museums53 Events

CONTENTSBologna Bologna, the city of culture

54 Art and culture56 Handicrafts57 Food and wine59 Sightseeing in and around Bologna60 Around Bologna62 Museums63 Events

Ferrara Ferrara, earth and water 64 Art and culture66 Handicrafts67 Food and wine69 Sightseeing in and around Ferrara70 Around ferrara72 Museums73 Events

Ravenna Ravenna, the capital of mosaics 74 Art and culture76 Handicrafts77 Food and wine79 Sightseeing in and around Ravenna80 Around Ravenna82 Museums83 Events

Faenza Faenza, the town of pottery and ceramics 84 Art and culture86 Handicrafts87 Food and wine88 Museums89 Events

CONTENTSForl-Cesena Forl and Cesena, the feeling of Romagna

90 Art and culture92 Handicrafts93 Food and wine95 Sightseeing in and around Forl and Cesena96 Around Forl and Cesena98 Museums99 Events

Rimini Rimini, the land of hospitality 100 Art and culture102 Handicrafts103 Food and wine105 Sightseeing in and around Rimini106 Around Rimini108 Museums109 Events

Historical itineraries 112 Out of the light and into darkness: Byzantium and the Middle Ages 115 Harmony and beauty: along the roads of the Renaissance 119 From the Enlightenment to Romanticism through epic revolutions: itineraries across the modern age Itineraries of old residences 122 The glory days of old stately homes 126 Castles and fortresses between legend and history 129 Charming villages and romantic landscapes In search of past traditions 132 A day out in the past: costume events 137 Old crafts and traditions 139 Historical roads: on the trail of pilgrims 143 Food and wine 148 IAT-Tourist ofces 149 Getting there 156 Notes/journal

Historical itineraries 112 Out of the light and into darkness: Byzantium and the Middle Ages 115 Harmony and beauty: along the roads of the Renaissance 119 From the Enlightenment to Romanticism through epic revolutions: itineraries across the modern age Itineraries of old residences 122 The glory days of old stately homes 126 Castles and fortresses between legend and history 129 Charming villages and romantic landscapes In search of past traditions 132 A day out in the past: costume events 137 Old crafts and traditions 139 Historical roads: on the trail of pilgrims 143 Food and wine 148 IAT-Tourist ofces 149 Getting there 156 Notes/journal

IN SEARCH OF PAST TRADITIONS

TOURS OF OLD RESIDENCES

HISTORICAL TOURS

D.O.P. PROTECTED DENOMINATION OF ORIGIN

TOURIST OFFICEI.A.T.

INFORMATION.

D.O.C.G.

D.O.C.

I.G.P.

I.G.T. LOCAL GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATION

PROTECTED GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATION

REGISTERED DENOMINATION OF ORIGIN

REGISTERED AND CERTIFIED DENOMINATION OF ORIGIN

KEY TO SYMBOLS

The region

Piacenza, a town of art between the River Po and the Apennines

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A look at the equestrian statue in Piazza Cavalli and you can almost feel the erce wind blowing through Alessandro Farneses hair and his steeds mane. The stern warrior prince has been in the saddle for over 400 years, hardly noticing the thousands of visitors he attracts every year. The story of Alessan-dros adventurous life is just one of the many tales Piacenza has to tell. This is a unique town, built on the banks of the river Po and surrounded by the Apennines. It was a pas-sage for princes and pilgrims, crusaders and Tem-plars, traders and artists. Are you ready to nd out its secrets and plunge into its dreamy atmosphere?

ART AND CULTUREWhat would you do if you were married to a man you didnt love, but who was extremely rich and powerful? Margaret of Austria (1522-86), Charles Vs blood daughter, chose to stand by her husband Ottavio Farnese and live in Piacenza. Instead, she turned her devotion to her son Alessandro Farnese, who would later become Europes most renowned captain. Still, Margaret hankered for the dreamlike opulence she had seen in the grandest courts of that time. So she had a fabulously grand palace planned for her never mind if the medieval castle of the Visconti family had to be demolished to make room for it. In its turn, however, Margarets palace also went down in history. This is how the Palazzo Farnese (1558) was built and became one of the nest princely palaces in Italy, thus making the per-fect starting point for a tour of Piacenza.Despite the fact that Margarets plans were never fully accomplished, the palace is huge: three oors, grand staircases, frescoed rooms, several museums, a picture gallery with a precious Tondo by Botticelli and a vast basement where as many as

Piazza Duomo

Galleria Ricci Oddi

Cathedral

50 antique coaches and carriages are still kept.Piacenza bears many other traces of the House of Farnese. First of all, two of Europes nest bron-ze equestrian monuments, those of Alessandro Farnese and his son Ranuccio, after which the ni-cest square in Piacenza was named Piazza Cavalli (Square of the Horses). The square is dominated by the symbol of Piacenza, Il Gotico or Palazzo del Comune (Town Hall), an elegant example of Lom-bard-Gothic architecture, porticoed and topped by shtail battlements. It was built by a Guelph mer-chant, Alberto Scoto, in 1281, at the time of strife between Guelphs and Ghibellines. The church of San Francesco, just off the square, is full of works of art such as a moving Piet. A few steps away you will nd Piazza Duomo and the impressive Romanesque cathedral built in pink marble (12th century). Another sight you cant miss is the Teatro Municipale (1804), whose facade resembles that of La Scala in Milan: it was planned by Alessandro Sanquirico, a stage designer at La Scala, who also decorated the interiors of the Municipale. The other stage of Piacenza is the Teatro dei Filodrammatici, formerly the 16th-century church of Santa Franca, converted into a theatre in the early 20th century. Its current facade in Art-Nouveau style was designed by the local architect Gazzola. Housed in a building in Neoclassical style at Via San Siro 13, the Galleria Ricci-Oddi contains 850 paintings and sculptures dating from the 19th and 20th centuries including works by Boccioni, Carr, Campigli, Funi, De Pisis. Just out of the town centre, along the Via Emilia, Collegio Alberoni houses a collection of Flemish tapestries and a picture gallery including a superb Ecce Homo by Antonello Messina, beside the Mu-seum of Natural Sciences (Museo di Scienze Natu-rali) and an observatory.

PIACENZA

Alessandro Farnese

INFO IAT (Tourist ofce) PiacenzaTel. +39/(0)523/329.324Musei Civici di Palazzo FarneseTel. +39/(0)523/328.270www.musei.piacenza.itGalleria dArte Moderna Ricci OddiTel. +39/(0)523/320.742www.comune.piacenza.it Collegio AlberoniTel. +39/(0)523/577.011

MUSEO DELLE CARROZZEYou wont nd another museum of car-riages anywhere else in the world. Housed in the fabulous Palazzo Farnese, the coaches still seem to be frozen in procession: rare formal and travel ber-lins, stages, landaus, coups de ville, coaches and unique 18th- and 19th-cen-tury carriages are exhibited here. Among others is the coach used by the king of Italy Vittorio Emanuele II (1879), on loan from the Quirinal..

CURIOSITY

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HANDICRAFTS

High quality handicrafts can be found throughout the Nure valley, in particular in Grazzano Visconti, where several schools of wrought iron and carpentry are still active. If you are interested in taking home original souvenirs, go for a traditional oboe (piffero) or bagpipes (musa). The tunes played on these instruments, whose origins are lost in the past, can still be heard in the popular festivals of local villages such as Marsaglia, Brugnello, Pianello Valtidone or Vernasca. You can buy them from one of the (few) remaining craftsmens shops that still produce them. Nure valley hand-painted pottery is another good choice for a memento.Traditional woodwork (such as handmade and inlaid furniture) can be found everywhere in and around Piacenza, but the best place to nd interesting things is the antique and collectables market in town.

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ETRUSCAN LIVERYou might remember from your school-books the haruspices who used the en-trails of animals to tell the future. Well, the star attraction of the Museo Civico in Palazzo Farnese is a bronze sheeps liver marked with inscriptions and a division of the skies. It is a unique object dating from the 2nd or perhaps the 1st century BC. It was probably a sort of textbook for students learning the difcult art of divination.

CURIOSITY

A craftswomans shop

Wrought iron

Etruscan liver

virtual tour: www.cittadarte.emilia-romagna.it

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FOOD AND WINE

A trip to Piacenza is a pleasure for your palate! Did you know: the province of Piacenza has the highest number of Doc wines and Dop products in the whole Emilia-Romagna region (see p. 11 for Doc and Dop). Its treasures are three great Dop salami: Coppa, Pancetta and Salame. Dop certication ensures that these products are made using pork meat obtained exclusively from locally reared pigs, which is then cured following strict protocols, ensuring the most delicious results. Other great products of this area are Dop Grana Padano and Dop Provolone Valpadana cheeses. The most popular local dish, pisarei e fas, consists of dumplings made from stale bread served with an unusual sauce of red bean (you need seven beans for each dumpling). Pasta specialities include traditional anolini (small tortellini lled with stewed meat and served in broth) and tailed tortelli (tortelli con la coda), which was served at the tables of 18th-century aristocrats and consists of a thin layer of pasta rolled out by hand and lled with herbs and ricotta cheese, then twisted like sweet wrappers. Among the meat dishes, roast pork (coppa) and picula ad caval (horse tartare served with tomatoes, onion and peppers) are worth a taste. These dishes require the appropriate wines you can choose from among 17 local varieties, such as the Ortrugo white. The wine culture here is thousands of years old: it is said in Latin, Vinum merum placentinum laeticat genuine wine from Piacenza will lift your spirits.

PIACENZA

DOP Coppa Piacentina

Local specialities

Barrels of Gutturnio wine

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SIGHTSEEING

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in and around Piacenza

CITIES OF ART Piacenza: Basilica of SantAntonino, Basilica of Santa Maria di Cam-pagna, Church of San Savino, Church of San Sisto, Collegio Alberoni, Cathedral, Galleria darte Ricci Oddi, Palazzo Farnese (Cittadella), Il Gotico, Piazza Cavalli Bobbio: Abbey of San Colombano, Cathedral, Castle, Ponte Gobbo (Hunchback Bridge) Castell Ar-quato: Medieval village, Rocca Viscontea, Palazzo Pretorio (Praetors palace), Collegiate church Grazzano Visconti: Neo-Gothic village Vigoleno: Medieval village, Castle, Romanesque parish church Cortemaggiore: Piazza Grande, Collegiate church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, Franciscan monastery

WILDLIFE RESERVES Riserva naturale Geologica del Piacenziano, Oasi de Pinedo (Caorso)

PARKS Parco Regionale Fluviale dello Stirone, Parco Provinciale Morfasso-Veleia

CASTLES AND STATELY HOMES The castles (castello) of Agazzano, Anguissola di Travo, Castelnuovo Fogliani, Gropparello, Bobbio (Castello Malaspina), Paderna, Podenzano, Rezzanello, Rivalta, San Giorgio, San Pietro in Cerro; the village of Vigoleno and its keep (mastio); the fortresses (rocca) of Borgonovo, CastellArquato, Caorso (Rocca Mandelli), Monticelli (Rocca Pallavicino), Pianello; Rocca DOlgisio; Villa Verdi in SantAgata (Villanova sullArda), Villa Tavernago

GOLF CLUBS Croara Country Club (18 holes - Croara Nuova Gazzola), CastellArquato Golf Club (18 holes), Castello La Bastardina Golf Club (9 holes - Agazzano)

WINE-PRODUCING TOWNS Borgonovo Val Tidone, Castel San Giovanni, Pianello Val Tidone, Ziano Piacentino

FOOD AND WINE TRAILS (STRADA DEI VINI E DEI SAPORI) Food and wine trail of the hills around Piacenza (Strada dei Vini e dei Sapori dei Colli Piacentini)

THEATRES Teatro Municipale in Piacenza, Teatro dei Filodrammatici in Piacenza, Teatro Verdi in Castel San Giovanni

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Piacenza, a town of art between the River Po and the ApenninesAround Piacenza

The area around Piacenza is a fairytale landscape full of castles, strongholds, fortresses and palaces, scattered with hills that gently slope down to the plain, spurs of rock and a multitude of well-pre-served manors. A tour of the castles around Pia-cenza is an interesting idea for an adventurous and romantic weekend away. There is a special tourist route for those who love to hear tales of dukes and ladies in their castles (look out, you might still see them appearing at a window!).

The 273 meter (300 yard) long walk over the cob-blestones of Ponte Gobbo (Hunchback Bridge) in Bobbio, a town of the Trebbia valley, is a mystical experience rather than just physical exercise. At each sudden rise of this oddly crooked bridge, the old story comes to mind of the battle between Saint Columbanus, still a common monk in those medi-eval days, and Satan a ght that left the eleven arches of the bridge higgledy piggledy, and that accounts for the other name of the bridge, Ponte del Diavolo (devils bridge). One never grows tired of listening to the tales of these valleys. In Bob-bio, people still talk about the origins of the grand porticoed abbey of San Colombano, founded on this spur of rock in 614 by Columbanus and the Lombard king Agilulf, who were directed by God. It instantly became a favourite destination for pil-grims from Italy and abroad, and the old town and castle grew around it.The atmosphere of Grazzano is completely different. Grazzano is a perfect early 20th-century reconstruction of a medieval village, built on a potato eld around an original medieval manor. The village, which includes a school, a carpenters shop, a blacksmiths workshop, an em-broidery school and villagers dressed in medieval costumes, was created by Giovanni Visconti di Modrone, father of lm director Luchino Visconti. The nearby town of Pontenure is dominated by the castle of Paterna, one of the most interesting man-ors of the area. Built in 817, for a long time it was the property of the monastery of San Savino; today it houses an organic farm. It would be a shame to miss CastellArquato. It is a small medieval town, with a castle built by the Visconti family and the

ANTIQUES IN CORTEMAGGIOREIt is difcult to tell whether you need patience or mere luck to nd a unique object and a bargain. Sure enough, hav-ing a look at the 300 stalls from all Italy is great fun! Every rst Sunday of the month, February to December.Info: Pro Loco Tel. +39/(0)523/839.080, comune.cortemaggiore@sintranet.it

CURIOSITY

Grazzano Visconti

CastellArquato

Bobbio

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old village built in stone, perched on the top of a Pliocene hill on the slopes of the Apennines, where the Po sea (Mare Padano) used to ow in prehis-toric days. The Rocca dOlgisio in the Tidone val-ley, near the border between Emilia Romagna and Piemonte, dominates the valley and is framed by two mountain streams; and probably due to its strategic position, it is one of the oldest fortresses around Piacenza (6th century). Today it is a bed & breakfast.The British Royal Family were among the frequent guests of the castle of Rivalta in Gazzola (1048), one of the most charming Italian manors, perched on a spur of rock directly overlooking the river Trebbia. Although inhabited by a family of counts, the Landi it became the property of this family in the 15th century its frescoed rooms, among which a grand hall with a monumental re-place, are open to the public. Finally, if you are a music lover, you simply must visit Villa Verdi in SantAgata (Villanova dArda), bought and partly rebuilt by the Maestro. Verdi lived here from 1850 to his death.

HANNIBALS BATTLEThe area around Gazzola and the River Trebbia is a truly historic place: in 218 BC, it became the eld of the famous battle between Hannibals army, sport-ing African elephants, and the Roman legions. The battle ended in a crushing victory on the part of the Carthaginians.

CURIOSITY

INFOCastello Pallavicino - Monticelli dOnginaTel. +39/(0)523/820.441Villa Verdi - SantAgata di Villanova dArdaTel. +39/(0)523/830.000 info@villaverdi.org, www.villaverdi.orgCastle of S.Pietro - S.Pietro in CerroTel. +39/(0)523/836.085Castle of Vigoleno - VernascaTel. +39/(0)523/891.991 - 382Castle of Rivalta - GazzolaTel. +39/(0)523/978.104 segreteria@castellidelducato.it, www.castellodirivalta.itRocca Viscontea - CastellArquatoIAT Tourist of ce, CastellArquatoTel. +39/(0)523/803.091 iat@castellarquato.comCastle of GropparelloTel. +39/(0)523/855.814 info@castellodigropparello.it, www.castellodigropparello.itAbbey of Chiaravalle della Colomba - AlsenoTel. +39/(0)523/940.132Castle of Paderna - PontenureTel. +39/(0)523/511645IAT Tourist of ce, Grazzano ViscontiTel. +39/(0)523/870.997 iat@grazzano.orgAbbey of San Colombano - BobbioTel. +39/(0)523/936.018Rocca dOlgisio - Pianello V.T.info@roccadolgisio.it, www.roccadolgisio.itIAT Tourist of ce, Borgonovo V.T.Tel. +39/(0)523/861.210 iatborgonovo@libero.it

The castle of Rivalta

Villa Verdi

Rocca dOlgisio

COLLEGIO ALBERONIThe College has housed a rich treasure of historical exhibits and works of art since 1733. Its picture gallery contains a superb Ecce Homo by Antonello da Messina; beside a collection of precious Flemish tapestries, it also has a science museum and an observatory.Via Emilia Parmense, 77Tel. +39 (0)523/613.342www.piacenzamusei.it

MUSEO CIVICO DI STORIA NATURALE (natural history museum)Currently housed in 15th-century Palazzo Scotti da Fombio (but it will be moved to the former public slaughterhouse, a 19th-century building), the museum has spectacular zoological, geological, botanical and palaeonto-logical collections containing several exhibits of great scientic value.Via Taverna, 37Tel. +39 (0)523/334.980info@musnat.pc.it,http://musnat.pc.it

MUSEO DARTE CONTEMPORANEA - MIM (museum in motion)Housed in the charming attic of the 15th-century castle of San Pietro, one of the most beautiful manors around Piacenza, this superb collection contains over 300 works by the worlds greatest contemporary artists an overview of the artistic trends from WWII to the present. The denition Museum in motion means that paintings, sculptures, graphic works and photographs are rotated regularly.Castello di S.PietroVia Roma, 19 - S. Pietro in CerroTel. +39 (0)523/983.711info@mimonline.itwww.mimonline.it

MUSEO GEOLOGICO (geological museum) GIUSEPPE CORTESI- CASTELLARQUATOThe palaeontological collection of this small museum, containing exhibits that have emerged from the ancient sea sediment of the area surrounding CastellArquato, is displayed in a conceptually coherent way, in order to make it easier for schoolchildren to understand the history of local geology. Via Sforza Caolzio c/o Ospedale Santo Spirito - CastellArquatoTel. +39 (0)523/804.266www.museogeologico.it

MUSEO DELLA CITTA (town museum) - BOBBIOHoused in the former refectory and lavabo of the monastery of San Colom-bano, this museum is a didactic introduction to the other museums and monuments of the town.Centro Culturale Comunale - BobbioTel. +39 (0)523/962.804

MUSEI CIVICI (civic museums), PALAZZO FARNESEThe museums of archaeology, medieval art, carriages; the Pinacoteca (art gallery, including the Tondo by Botticelli), the Museo civico, the State ar-chives, the ducal apartments with an interesting cycle of paintings (the fasti farnesiani or the splendour of the Farnese) are all housed in the palace of Ottavio Farnese and Margaret of Austria. Piazza CittadellaTel. +39 (0)523/328.270www.musei.piacenza.it

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MUSEUMS IN PIACENZA

CAROVANEA literary festival focused on the literature (including comics), poetry, music, and theatre from the developing world. Concerts, forums, meetings with au-thors, poetry prizes, exhibitions.WHEN: late August early SeptemberWHERE: Piacenza - Piazza Duomo and other locationsCOST: freeINFO: Libreria Fahrenheit 451 Tel. +39 (0)523/335.725, Fax+39(0)523/309.857fahrenheit.451@libero.it, www.carovane.pc.it

THEATRE SEASON AT THE TEATRO MUNICIPALEThe old Teatro Municipale (1804) presents a rich season of events every year. The charming building, designed by the same architect who planned La Scala in Milan, houses top-level operas, concerts, dramas, ballets and other shows.WHEN: all the yearWHERE: Teatro MunicipaleCOST: ticket prices vary INFO: Teatro Municipale Tel. +39 (0)523/492.251-7

THEATRE AND ARCHAEOLOGY: VELEIA ROMANAA season of theatre and poetry readings in Latin, performed at night in the open-air archaeological site of Veleia Romana, with the audience sitting among the Roman ruins. WHERE: Veleia Lugaganano - archaeological siteWHEN: July and August COST: ticket prices varyINFO: PiacenzaTurismi Tel. +39 (0)523/305.254, Fax +39 (0)523/309.298,infotur@piacenzaturismi.net

THEATRE SEASON AT THE CASTLE OF VIGOLENOA theatre season against the splendid backdrop of the castle of Vigoleno. The stage is set up in the highest part of the medieval village, under the open sky.WHERE: Vigoleno VernascaWHEN: summerCOST: ticket prices vary INFO: Editorial ofce in Piacenza Tel. +39 (0)523/329.324

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EVENTS IN PIACENZA

PIACENZA JAZZ FESTConcerts of great Italian and international jazz musicians, meetings with art-ists, seminars, short lms and photo exhibitions. A festival steadily growing in its popularity; because jazz isnt only music, but also culture.WHEN: February to April, preview in NovemberWHERE: several locationsCOST: tickets from approx.12,00 euroINFO: IAT Piacenza Tel. +39 (0)523/329.324 Piacenza Jazz Clubinfo@piacenzajazzclub.it, www.piacenzajazzclub.it

MARCO BELLOCCHIOS FILM-MAKING COURSEHow do you make a short lm? What are the stages in the creation of a lm? In addition to answering to such questions, the course run by world-famous lm director Marco Bellocchio allows for meetings with professional actors and creative and technical staff. Students have been invited to show their works at several international festivals.WHERE: BobbioWHEN: JulyCOST: approx. 300,00 euro INFO: Tel.+39/(0)0523/962.804, corsocinema@comune.bobbio.pc.it

Parma, a town of art, music, food and wine

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Parma is one of the most beautiful Italian towns, and proud of its beauty for that matter. It seems to wear its elegant, well-kept streets and buildings as a well-off, self-conscious woman would wear her jewels. The rst visit to Parma is out of curiosity. The following are out of sheer love. It is impossible to resist the pervasive joie de vivre and sensuality which satises all the senses emanating from this town. It is no coincidence that Parma is the capital of great music (the worlds greatest com-poser, Giuseppe Verdi, was born here) and gourmet food and wine (just two names: DOP Parmigiano Reggiano and DOP Prosciutto di Parma, the local star specialities).

ART AND CULTUREHer name was Marie Louise Habsburg and she was the daughter of the emperor of Austria. She was beautiful, powerful, and had lived in the most glamorous cities and courts of Europe. In 1816 she was granted the grand duchy of Parma by the Congress of Vienna, and she fell in love with it im-mediately and never left it, leaving her mark eve-rywhere. It was she that commissioned the Teatro Regio, a world-famous opera house that contrib-uted to the transformation of Parma into a splendid capital city. She opened the huge park surrounding her residence and the frescoed Palazzo Ducale (du-cal palace) to the public. This initiative made her even more popular among her subjects. For those interested in the era of Marie Louise, the historical events, everyday life, art and society of the duchy of Parma, a visit to the Museo Glauco Lombardi, which contains exhibits dating from 1748 to 1859, is suggested. But theres so much else to see and taste in Parma. The ideal starting point for a tour of the town is the medieval Piazza Duomo, dominated

Palazzo Ducale

Monument to Giuseppe Verdi

The dome of the cathedral

by one of the greatest Romanesque cathedrals in Italy (1059). It is noted for its classic gable facade, double loggia and its dome, representing angels and archangels oating up in dazzling light and swirling clouds, frescoed by Correggio between 1526 and 1530. The other eye-catching building in Piazza Duomo is the baptistery, the work of the most brilliant sculptor and architect of the Middle Ages, Bene-detto Antelami. This distinctive Romanesque oc-tagonal building anticipates Gothic proportions as it is taller than it is large.But thats not all! Its difcult to miss the 16th-cen-tury Palazzo della Pilotta, a huge building commis-sioned by Ranuccio I Farnese and originally meant to be a service centre with stables, barns, barracks, a theatre and a library. Today this must-see houses the Galleria Nazionale, one of the rst Italian galler-ies both for the number of pictures it contains and for their importance. It groups together paintings by Leonardo da Vinci, Fra Angelico, Correggio, Tintoretto and Giulio Romano all under one roof. It also houses the superb Teatro Farnese, one of the most charming historical theatres in the world. It is built entirely of wood and still equipped with old stage machinery. Music is the very lifeblood of Parma: this is the home of Giuseppe Verdi, the Teatro Regio, and great opera performances, not to mention the birthplace of Arturo Toscanini (1867-1957), and the adopted home of Niccol Paganini. Paganini has even lent his name to the new auditorium (a converted sugar mill) designed by Renzo Piano. Last but not least, the Casa della Musica (house of music) in Renais-sance Palazzo Cusani is the only music museum in Italy and also a research centre.

PARMA

Baptistery

INFO IAT Tourist ofce, ParmaTel. +39 (0)521/218.889, Fax +39 (0)521/234.735 http://turismo.comune.parma.itTeatro RegioTel. +39 (0)521/039.399Parco DucaleTel. +39 (0)521/5371 http://servizi.comune.parma.it/giardinoducale Palazzo DucaleTel. +39 (0)521/282.868Parma TurismiTel.+39 (0)521/386.329, Fax +39 (0)521/223.161parma.turismi@tin.it

PUPPET CASTLEThe castello dei burattini is the great-est Italian museum of animated theatre. Direct from the world of fantasy, glove puppets, marionettes, masks, costumes and playbills, many of them originals and valuable. Guided tours (reservations required), activities for school groups, conferences and animation, bookshop.Info: Tel. +39 (0)521/239.810 - 218.873Fax +39 (0)521/221.591www.comune.parma.it/castellodeiburat-tini 25

CURIOSITY

HANDICRAFTS

The inevitable souvenir from Parma is the typical perfume produced in this town, the world-famous Violetta di Parma. Violets were the favourite ower of Marie-Louise, Napoleons second wife and eventual Duchess of Parma and Guastalla from 1816 to 1847. It was upon her request that the friars from Convento dellAnnunciata began to extract an essence closely resembling the scent of the real ower. The formula was intended to be kept secret, for private use only, but today it is available to the public. It is no accident that Parma houses the rst Italian Perfume Museum (Museo della profumeria), in Palazzo Borsari. Leather works, too, are typical local handicrafts: here you can buy leather accessories with the exclusive Made in Parma label. For antique lovers, the Mercanteinera international exhibition provides the perfect occasion to buy antique objects and furniture, as does the town market held every Thursday under the porticoes of the Ospedale Vecchio (old hospital) in Via DAzeglio. Here you will nd plenty of stalls selling all sorts of things: dresses and lace trimmings, home furnishings, jewellery, books, comics and other bric-a-brac, alongside valuable objects certied and guaranteed to be authentic. Another well-developed local sector is organic and natural non-food products such as candles, soap, body lotions and creams.

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ANTIQUE COLLECTORS PARADISEParma is full of antique shops and art galleries. Most of them can be found in one of the loveliest parts of the old town centre, enclosed by Strada Farini, Via XXII Luglio and Strada Repubblica. If you like rummaging through unusual pieces of antique furniture or precious lithographs covered in dust, youll be in paradise. Info: Tel. +39/349/593.1077

CURIOSITY

A local product

virtual tour: www.cittadarte.emilia-romagna.it

PARMA

FOOD AND WINE

Parma is the capital of the Italian food valley, the home of good cuisine and excellent wines. Its most famous products are Dop Prosciutto di Parma, Dop Culatello di Zibello (culatello is a special kind of ham), Dop Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, Salame di Felino, the renowned Igp Boletus mushrooms (porcini) from the Taro valley, Igt Fortana del Taro wine and Fragno trufes (tartu). But these are only the most well known products. In and around Parma extremely rare homemade salami can be found, such as prete (literally, priest), which is similar to zampone (stuffed pigs trotter) and is produced in the Colorno area. Other examples are strolghino, a kind of salami, or gola (pigs throat), which is top-quality pork lard left to mature on a wooden plank until it becomes pink with streaks of lean meat. Thinly sliced gola is eaten on hot bread. The typical products of the lowlands around Parma are culatello and a mild, egg-shaped salami called Spalla di San Secondo, which was much appreciated by Italian poet Gabriele DAnnunzio. There are so many local dishes that it is impossible to give a full list of them here, but typical menus include several shapes of pasta or rice with savoury llings (anolini, tortelli with a beet or pumpkin lling, rice patties with a pigeon meat lling), meat (stew, boiled meat, and ground horse meat), and several kinds of desserts (which show a distinctive French and Austrian inuence).

DOP Culatello di Zibello

DOP Parmigiano Reggiano

IGP Borgotaro boletus mushrooms

PARMA

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SIGHTSEEING

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in and around Parma

CITIES OF ART Parma: Baptistery, Camera di San Paolo, Casa Natale di Toscanini (Toscaninis birthplace), Casa della Musica (House of Music), Castello dei Burattini (Pup-pet Castle), Church and Monastery of San Giovanni, Cathedral, Museo Glauco Lombardi, Palazzo della Pilotta, Santa Maria della Steccata

SPA RESORTS Salsomaggiore, Tabiano, Monticelli, SantAndrea

PARKS Parco Regionale Fluviale dello Stirone, Parco Regionale del Taro, Parco Regiona-le Boschi di Carrega, Parco Regionale dei 100 Laghi, Oasi LIPU di Torrile (run by the Italian Bird Protection League)

WILDLIFE RESERVES Riserva Naturale del Monte Prinzera, Riserva Naturale di Parma Morta

CASTLES AND STATELY HOMES The castles (castello) of Bardi, Compiano, Felino, Fontanellato, Montechiarugolo, Pellegrino Parmense, Roccabianca, Sala Baganza, San Se-condo, Soragna, Torrechiara; the Palace (Reggia) of Colorno

GOLF CLUBS Golf Club La Rocca (18 holes - Sala Baganza), Salsomaggiore Golf & Country Club (18 holes), Golf Club SantElisabetta (6 holes - Parma)

MOTORS R. Paletti racetrack (Varano deMelegari), Go-kart track (Fraore)

THEATRES Teatro Regio in Parma, Teatro Magnani in Fidenza, Teatro Verdi in Busseto, Paganini Auditorium in Parma

FOOD AND WINE TRAILS (STRADA DEI VINI E DEI SAPORI) Strada del Culatello di Zibello, Strada del Fungo Porcino di Borgotaro, Strada del Prosciutto e dei Vini dei Colli di Parma

VERDI COUNTRY Busseto, Parma

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Parma, a town of art, music, food and wineAround Parma

Whats the connection between abbeys and monasteries, medieval castles, Art-Nouveau spa facilities, ancient pilgrimage routes, sailing on the river Po, wildlife parks and reserves, and bizarre museums (such as the museums of ham and Parmigiano Reggiano)? Thats an easy one: magic. The area around Parma is pervaded by an almost supernatural atmosphere. The best way to appreciate the spirit of this land is to drive around, maybe with a bit of cycling (theres a 50-km-long cycle path running along the river Po), or even cruising on a barge.

It would be impossible to list here all the attractions of the area around Parma, so well have to make do with the absolute must-sees. First of all, Colorno, 10 km from Parma, boasts a splendid palace with a French air about it, which, together with its distinctive corner towers, earned it the name of Little Versailles. This former summer residence of the Dukes of Parma is surrounded by a 15th-century park that Marie-Louise had redesigned as an English garden; the original 18th-century design has been partly restored. After the luxury of Colorno, Fidenza comes as a balm for the soul. This is the place for faith and prayers: used by the Romans as a rest-stop along the Via Emilia, it became a popular point on the pilgrim route that connected Rome to the rest of Europe during the Middle Ages. The grand Romanesque cathedral contains a carvings depicting all the miracles that had been bestowed upon the local population by several saints. Its facade, decorated by two towers, was worked on by the Parma master, Antelami. A more romantic atmosphere can be found in the many castles around Parma, some of them extraordinarily charming, like those included in the Castle Circuit of the Duchy of Parma and Piacenza: Bardi, Colorno again, Compiano, Torrechiara, Montechiarugolo, Felino, Fontanellato, Roccabianca, Sala Baganza, Soragna, San Secondo. Each one has its own story to tell of lovers, struggles for power, banquets and balls. The impressive 15th-century castle of Fontanellato, in particular, was built by the powerful Sanvitale dynasty for defensive purposes: it has a moat, battlements, and a mighty-looking

BICIPARMAPOBiciparmap is the name of the 50-km-long cycleway running along the bank of the river Po from Polesine Par-mense to Mezzani. Along the route there are rent-a-bike stalls, information cen-tres giving out maps and useful hints, and NavigarPo barges offering short cruises on the river. Info: Tel. +39 (0)524/917.08

CURIOSITY

The castle of Soragna

Roccabianca

The palace in Colorno

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tower on each corner. On the ground oor there is one of Parmigianinos masterpieces, a fresco of the legend of Diana and Actaeon (1523) which in itself is well worth the visit. In Fontanellato, see also the recently restored theatre dating from 1868, a small jewel with two tiers of boxes that seats about 300. Another gem is the Berzieri building in the spa resort of Salsomaggiore Terme. It is a colossal Art-Nouveau palace with profuse decorations of gold, owers, and Oriental patterns, that take the visitor back to the n-de-sicle days when people came from all over Europe to go to the spa and stroll idly along the tree-lined avenues of this green, cheerful town. The local spa water, by the way, is an excel-lent cure against a wide range of ailments. Last but not least, two destinations everybody will enjoy: the Parmigiano Reggiano Museum in Soragna (which also has one of the most beautiful castles of the area), and the Parma Ham and Salami Museum (Museo del Prosciutto e dei Salumi di Parma), a few miles from the splendid castle of Torrechiara.

ANTIQUE MARKETOn the third Sunday of each month ex-cept January, the streets and alleyways around the Rocca Sanvitale in Fontanel-lato become crowded with market stalls selling old prints, vintage clocks and silverware. Info: Tel. +39 (0)521/823.220 www.fontanellato.org

CURIOSITY

INFOColorno PalaceTel. +39 (0)521/312.545 www.castellidelducato.it Cathedral and Cathedral MuseumTel. +39 (0)524/514.883 www.museoduomo denza.it IAT Tourist Of ce, Fidenza Tel. +39 (0)524/833.77 www.comune. denza.pr.it Theatre - Fontanellato Tel. +39 (0)521/822.346 www.fontanellato.org Terme Berzieri (spa) - Salsomaggiore Tel. +39 (0)524/578.201 www.termedisalsomaggiore.it Castles of the Duchy of Parma and PiacenzaTel. +39 (0)521/829.055 www.castellidelducato.it Museo del Parmigiano ReggianoTel. +39 (0)524/596.129 www.museidelcibo.it Museo del Prosciutto e dei Salumi Tel. +39 (0)521/351.350 www.museidelcibo.it Strada del Culatello di Zibello Tel. +39 (0)524/939.081 www.stradadelculatello.it Strada del Prosciutto e dei vini dei Colli Tel. +39 (0)521/386.329 www.stradadelprosciutto.it Strada del Fungo Porcino di Borgotaro Tel. +39 (0)521/386.329 www.stradadelfungo.it

The fortress in Fontanellato

Salsomaggiore Terme

The castle of Torrechiara

MUSEO GLAUCO LOMBARDIHoused in the splendid Palazzo della Riserva and designed by Petitot, the museum contains exhibits from the Duchy of Parma from the mid-eighteenth century to the Unication of Italy. Of particular interest the section devoted to Marie-Louise, featuring several of her dresses, jewels, embroidery sets, portraits. Via Garibaldi, 15 Tel./fax +39 (0)521/233.727www.museolombardi.it

PINACOTECA STUARDOver 200 works dating from the 14th to the 20th centuries, housed in an old cloister. Paintings, portraits, drawings (among which, one Parmigianino), relics, tapestries and other objects documenting the history of local art, in-cluding the archaeological nds excavated from local sites. Borgo Parmigianino, 2 Tel +39 (0)521/231.286 Fax +39 (0)521/218.875www.comune.parma.it/stuard

MUSEO ETTORE GUATELLIMaster Ettore Guatellis extraordinary and rich collection of objects and tools used by local farmers, housed in picturesque Podere (farm) Bella Foglia. Via nazionale, 130 - Collecchio Tel. +39 (0)521/333.601www.museoguatelli.it

MUSEO EBRAICO FAUSTO LEVIVestments, relics, documents, Papal bulls the treasure of local Jewish communities. Also, documents on the Holocaust and the infamous racial laws under fascism. Via Cavour, 43 - Soragna Tel. +39 (0)524/599.399www.museoebraicosoragna.net

POLO MUSEALE DEL SEMINARIO VESCOVILE DI BEDONIAThe imposing Episcopal seminary (seminario vescovile), next door to the Santuario della Madonna di San Marco, hosts the Agostino Casaroli Re-search Centre and an interesting archive including several documents that belonged to Pope John XXIIIs Secretary of State. Via Raf , 30 - Bedonia Tel. +39 (0)525/824.420 seminariobedonia@infomont.it www.web.tiscali.it/seminariobedonia

GALLERIA NAZIONALEOne of Europes greatest museums, this art gallery includes the superb pri-vate collections of the Grand Dukes of Parma, with works by Leonardo, Fra Angelico, Correggio, Canova, Tintoretto, Giulio Romano and others. Palazzo della Pilotta Tel. +39 (0)521/233.309www.artipr.arti.beniculturali.it

MUSEUMS IN PARMA

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GRANDESTATE A GREAT SUMMER SEASONA season of concerts, classical and modern ballet, theatre shows by great actors, in Piazzale della Pilotta. WHEN: June to July WHERE: Teatro Regio Renaissance courtyard COST: ticket prices varyINFO: Tel. +39 (0)521/039.399, ticket@teatroregioparma.org www.teatroregioparma.org

A TASTE OF TIMES GONE BYCostume banquets in charming ancient castles that become the settings of medieval duels and balls accompanied by excellent local products. WHEN: all yearWHERE: castles of the circuit of the Duchy of Parma and Piacenza COST: prices varyINFO: Associazione Castelli del Ducato di Parma e Piacenza Tel. +39 (0)521/829.055 www.castellidelducato.it

BLACK TRUFFLE FAIR FRAGNOThe local trufe fair, with interesting events every week-end. Theme menus in restaurants, conferences, trufe-dog competitions, concerts and of course, a busy market. WHEN: late October, November WHERE: Fragno di Calestano COST: free INFO: Tel. +39 (0)525/520.114 www.tartufonerofragno.it

PARMA JAZZFRONTIERE A truly international festival with top-ranking shows and the cutting edge artists from all over the world. WHEN: November to December. WHERE: Parma several theatres and other locationsCOST: ticket prices varyINFO: Tel.+39(0)521/200.688, Fax+39 (0)521/200.688, info@parmafrontiere.itwww.parmafrontiere.it

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EVENTS IN PARMA

THE OPERA SEASON AT THE TEATRO REGIOThe greatest operas and concerts by the most popular conductors, musicians and singers. A night at the Teatro Regio in Parma is a night to remember. WHEN: December to March WHERE: Teatro Regio COST: ticket prices varyI N F O : Te l . + 3 9 ( 0 ) 5 2 1 / 0 3 9 . 3 9 9 , F a x + 3 9 ( 0 ) 5 2 1 / 2 0 6 . 1 5 6 ticket@teatroregioparma.org www.teatroregioparma.org

NOVEMBER PORC... SPERIAMO CI SIA LA NEBBIA (A CELE-BRATION OF THE FOGGY SEASON) Market stalls, typical street food vendors, music and buskers. WHEN: November WHERE: Zibello COST: free INFO: Strada del Culatello di Zibello Tel. +39 (0)524/939.081 www.stradadelculatello.itwww.stradadelculatello.it

Reggio Emilia, home of the Italian ag

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Reggio is famous for being the place where the Italian tricolour was invented. It was an engineer and public employee, called Ludovico Bolognini, that designed the new white, red and green ag. His project was selected as the symbol of the Cispa-dane Republic by the delegates of Reggio Emilia, Modena, Ferrara and Bologna in 1797. It was later adopted by the unied Italian Kingdom and then handed on to the Republic. A model of the original ag is kept at the Sala (and Museo) del Tricolore housed in the town hall in Piazza Prampolini.

ART AND CULTUREThe best way to see Reggio Emilia is to rent a bi-cycle and pedal idly along its streets, savouring the slow pace of this well-off town, which tops all Ital-ian lists in terms of income levels and quality of life. Renowned for having the best kindergartens in the world, Reggio Emilia (Roman Regium Lepidi) is also a beautiful old town full of art and history. The main sight is the evocative 17th-century Basilica della Ghiara, at the heart of the old town centre. It is a sumptuously baroque church, richly decorated with frescoes by some of the best painters of its time (including a Crucixion by Guercino). Legend has it that in 1596 a young deaf and dumb boy regained his voice and sense of hearing after looking at an icon of the Virgin Mary painted on a low wall. The Basilica was built on the spot where the miracle had taken place, which had already become a destination for masses of pilgrims. For a relaxing walk, choose the ancient Via Emilia, that cuts neatly through the town and out onto the plain. In town, the Via Emilia is almost entirely lined with porticoes, with a number of nice shops and old workshops, and is usually swarming with people chatting and strolling around. It is easy to

Baptistery: interior

Cathedral

Ghiara: frescoed dome

INFO IAT Tourist ofce, Reggio EmiliaTel. +39 (0)522/451.152 www.municipio.re.it/turismo www.girareggio.it Basilica of Beata Vergine della Ghiara Tel. +39 (0)522/439.707 www.municipio.re.turismo Basilica of San ProsperoTel. 0522/434.667 www.municipio.re.it/turismo Duomo (Cathedral)Tel. +39 (0)522/433.783 www.municipio.re.it/turismo Sala del Tricolore Tel. +39 (0)522/456.111 www.tricolore.itTeatro Municipale Romolo ValliTel. +39 (0)522/458.811 www.iteatri.re.it

see that Reggio Emilia is a lively and friendly place, the perfect place to unwind a bit and feel at home. Follow the Via Emilia to Piazza Prampolini (aka Piazza Grande), dominated by the 15th-century town hall (Palazzo del Comune) and the cathedral, which was originally built in the 9th century but reconstructed several times. Several of its chapels contain precious canvases, such as the Assumption of the Virgin Mary with Saints Peter and Jerome (1626) by Francesco Barbieri, known as Guercino; the Visitation by Mary to Saint Elizabeth (1604) by Giuseppe Cesari known as Cavalier dArpino; and the marble tomb of Valerio Malaguzzi, by the 16th-century sculptor and goldsmith Bartolomeo Spani from Reggio. In Piazza Grande, to the right of the cathedral, an arch marks the half-hidden passage called the Broletto. It is a covered alleyway in a vaguely Oriental style, crammed with tiny shops and usually quite busy since it links Piazza Grande with the lively and picturesque Piazza San Prospero, or Piazza Piccola. Piazza San Prospero comes alive on market days (Tuesday and Friday), its stalls bustling in the shadow of the imposing Basilica of San Prospero. The 18th-century facade of the church contrasts sharply with the bell tower next to it (1536-70), an original octagonal campanile (the project was approved by Giulio Romano) and an outstanding example of Renaissance architecture in Reggio. Another must-see is the Teatro Municipale Romolo Valli, opened in 1857.

A GLIMPSE OF ANCIENT ROMEAt the crossroads of Via Emilia San Pietro and Via Roma a portion of street is covered over in glass, to reveal large stone blocks lying some 2 metres be-low. These stones are fragments of the Roman Via Emilia and mark the very spot where the Roman settlement of Fo-rum Lepidi was founded the junction between the two main streets, the cardus and the decumanus maximus. The settle-ment then grew in to a wealthy town of entrepreneurs, tradesmen and talented craftsmen. 35

REGGIO EMILIA

CURIOSITY

Galleria Parmeggiani

HANDICRAFTS

The typical handicrafts found in and around Reggio, called Ars Canusina, are reproductions of the geometrical Romanesque patterns found in the monuments dating back to the glory days of countess Matilda of Canossa (1046-1115). These handicrafts can be of different materials: stone, wood, leather, metal, pottery, or linen. Today Ars Canusina is renowned and appreciated; the best craftsmens and craftswomens work is certied by a special seal of quality. The abundance of handicraft shops in town is partly due to the presence of several craft unions, that group together the small shops and businesses located in the alleyways of the old town centre and around the main squares.

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PIAZZA FONTANESIToday Piazza Fontanesi is a vast tree-lined square with a number of antique shops. In the past, however, it was the proto-industrial area of Reggio: silk mills and leather tanneries were concentrated here, around the canal called the Guaz-zatoio. The restoration work completed during the 1980s has made it possible to establish the positions and workings of the buildings that once lled this area.

CURIOSITY

Countess Matilda of Canossa

Ars Canusina ceramic plate

virtual tour: www.cittadarte.emilia-romagna.it

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FOOD AND WINE

Reggio Emilia is home to several pearls of Italian cuisine: from DOP Parmigiano Reggiano to Dop traditional balsamic vinegar from Reggio Emilia, from DOC wines like famous Lambrusco to the local salami, from erbazzone (a vegetable pie with a beet and spinach lling) to gnocco fritto (fried dough served steaming hot with salame, prosciutto, coppa...) down to liqueurs made from fruit or herbs steeped in alcohol, like nocino, a popular walnut liqueur. Starting with, HRM Parmigiano Reggiano, the world-famous king of cheeses, probably invented by Benedectine monks. 1 kg of Parmigiano is the product of 16 kg of milk but it only takes 40 minutes to digest 100 g of this cheese, whereas the same quantity of beef would be digested in about 3 12 hours. The other main speciality is balsamic vinegar, but be careful here - traditional balsamic vinegar (aceto balsamico tradizionale) is very different from the more ordinary aceto balsamico. The traditional product is aged for 12 years at the very least and up to as many as 50 years, like the best wines, whereas its more commercial cousin matures in a single month. This is what makes traditional balsamic vinegar so thick and almost sweet, a precious essence to be savoured by the drop on every kind of food, including fruit or ice-cream. It is, however, virtually impossible to nd real aceto balsamico tradizionale in supermarkets: better plan a visit to a vinegar cellar (acetaia) along one of the two local Food and wine trails.

REGGIO EMILIA

Parmiggiano Reggiano

Local specialities

Vinegar cellar

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SIGHTSEEING

39

in and around Reggio Emilia

CITIES OF ART Reggio Emilia: Basilica Beata Vergine della Ghiara, Cathedral, Roma-nesque Baptistery, Basilica of San Prospero

SPA RESORTS Terme di Cervarezza

PARKS Parco Regionale del Gigante (a part of the Parco Nazionale dellAppennino To-sco Emiliano), Parco di Roncolo, Pinetina di Vezzano

WILDLIFE RESERVES Riserva Naturale Orientata Casse di Espansione del Fiume Sec-chia (Rubiera), Riserva Naturale Campotrera (Canossa), Fontanili di Valle Re (Campegine)

CASTLES AND STATELY HOMES Circuit of Matildas Castles and the Castles of the Courts around Reggio

GOLF CLUBS Golf Club Matilda di Canossa (18 holes - S. Bartolomeo), San Valentino Golf Club (9 holes - Castellarano), Golf Club Santo Stefano (6 holes Campagnola Emilia)

MOTORS Museo dellAutomobile in San Martino in Rio

THEATRES Reggio Emilia: Teatro Municipale Romolo Valli, Teatro Ariosto, Teatro Cesare Zavattini, Teatro San Prospero

WINE-PRODUCING TOWNS Scandiano

FOOD AND WINE TRAILS (STRADA DEI VINI E DEI SAPORI) Strada dei Vini e dei sapori delle Colline di Scandiano e Canossa (Food and wine trail of the hills around Scandiano and Canossa), Strada dei Vini e dei sapori delle Corti Reggiane (Food and wine trail of the courts around Reggio)

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Reggio Emilia, home of the Italian ag Around Reggio

...the river, the valley, the people... And you, readers, trust an old man: do not wait until old age to get to know those horizontal spaces, that seem so unattainable and yet are so easy to reach, by all means... These words are by Cesare Zavattini, a popular writer and poet from Reggio Emilia, who has always been in love with his homeland. His suggestion is well worth taking, as the plains around Reggio will certainly nd a place in your heart, be it on a short barge cruise on the river Po, a hike up a hill to one of the medieval castles that belonged to Countess Matilda of Canossa or a sensually satisfying tour of one of the two local Food and wine trails (Strade dei Vini e dei Sapori).

The river harbour of Boretto sul Po, with the round, pink dome of San Marco overlooking the jetty, looks like it could be the starting point of fairytale cruises. A variety of boats are moored along the quay: houseboats laden with bicycles, cabin cruisers, motor ships used for river cruises, that glide along the canals bordered with reeds to Mantova, Ferrara and Venice. Other destinations include old monasteries and abbeys, such as San Benedetto Po, or nature reserves that are the birdwatchers paradises. The Great River (the Po is Italys longest and largest inland waterway) is one of the two main landmarks of the area around Reggio, the other being the Apennines. The region between the Via Emilia and the mountains, originally a part of Matilda of Canossas county, includes an interesting wildlife park, the Parco del Gigante (now a part of the Parco Nazionale dellAppennino Tosco-Emiliano). Boretto isnt only a river harbour, but also a charming little town. Sights include the Basilica of San Marco and the council chamber (sala consiliare) in the Town Hall, with Art-Nouveau frescoes by Marcello Nizzoli (1914). Gualtieri, a few miles downstream, has lovely cobbled streets winding around the splendidly porticoed and rather large Piazza Bentivoglio, dominated by Palazzo Bentivoglio. Another small art town on the Great River is Guastalla, once a part of the lands of the Gonzaga dynasty, where famous artists and poets

RIVER CRUISES FROM BORETTO A wide range of cruises on motor boats, houseboats or jet skis departing from the new jetty, for a different perspective on some of the most beautiful Italian landscapes and cities of art. You can also nd restaurants, recreation areas for children, Latin-American dance. Info: Tel. +39 (0)522.963.015, +39 335.626.8300, Fax. +39 (0)522.963.128

CURIOSITY

Gualtieri

Correggio

Scandiano

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(such as Guercino and Tasso) lived for a period of their lives.The Renaissance left its mark on the region around Reggio. Take an afternoon off to stroll under the porticoes of Corso Mazzini in Correggio and visit the Palazzo dei Principi, once the home of the Correggio dynasty of princes, the rivals of the Este and Visconti families. Other must-sees are the Renaissance Rocca Boiardo in Scandiano (the second largest town in the area), its design inspired by the castle in Ferrara; the forti ed medieval village of Castellarano (still perfectly preserved and very picturesque); or, going up towards the Apennines, the castles of the county that once belonged to Matilda of Canossa. Not to mention the small yet signi cant monuments found all over the territory, such as the Tempietto del Petrarca in Selvapiana di Canossa, a small tower built in 1839 as a memorial to poet Francesco Petrarca, who stayed here in 1343; or the charming medieval parish church (Pieve Matildica) in Toano, which is still preserved as it was in Matildas times, but is much older than that and was rst mentioned in a document signed by emperor Otto II on the 14th of October, AD 980.

BUDDHIST CENTRE The Tibet House (Casa del Tibet) in Votigno di Canossa is an international research centre whose aim is to pre-serve and popularise the thousand-year-old Tibetan culture, and also to foster dialogue among different cul-tures. The Tibet House has a museum, open every Sunday, and offers B&B ac-commodation. Info: Tel. +39 (0)522/877.177 stedal@tin.it www.etnoweb.com/casadeltibet

CURIOSITY

INFOStrada dei Vini e dei Sapori delle Corti ReggianeTel. +39 (0)522/508.919, Fax +39 (0)522/508.918 corti.reggiane@re.camcom.it, www.stradavinicortireggiane.it Strada dei Vini e dei Sapori delle Colline di Scandi-ano e CanossaTel. +39 (0)522/454.666, Fax +39 (0)522/496.786 info@stradaviniesapori.re.it, www.stradaviniesapori.re.it

Castellarano

The castle of Rossena and Rossanella

The parish church in Toano

GALLERIA PARMEGGIANIThe gallery houses Luigi Parmeggianis art collection, including European weapons and cutlery, jewellery and gold objects, enamelled pieces, tra-ditional European costumes from the 17th to the 19th century, stone and painted wood sculptures, Italian, Spanish and Flemish paintings and other works of art. Corso Cairoli, 2 Tel. +39 (0)522/451.054 www.girareggio.it

MUSEI CIVICISeveral interesting collections, sporting the Collezione Spallanzani, an 18th-century private museum of zoology, anatomy, ethnography and herb collec-tions. Other sections include the Gabinetto di antichit e patrie (cabinet of antiquities), the Museo di archeologia e paleontologia Chierici (archaeol-ogy and palaeontology), the Galleria dei Marmi (ancient marbles), the Pina-coteca Fontanesi (paintings), the Museo Mazzacurati and the Museo di arte industriale (industrial art). Via Spallanzani, 1 Tel. +39 (0)522/456.477http://musei.comune.re.it/

MUSEO CIVICO IL CORREGGIOSituated in the splendid Renaissance Palazzo dei Principi, the museum in-cludes 12 16th-century Flemish tapestries, a Christs Head by Mantegna and two works by Correggio. Corso Cavour, 7 - Correggio Tel. +39 (0)522/693.296,Fax. +39(0)522/641.105 g.fabbrici@comune.correggio.re.it www.museo.comune.correggio.re.it

MUSEO NAZIONALE DI ARTI NAVES CESARE ZAVATTINIA gallery of the winners of the Cesare Zavattini award for naive artists (Premio Nazionale delle Arti Naves), from 1967 to the present. In Luzzara. Via Villa Superiore, 29 - Luzzara Tel. +39 (0)522/977.283, Fax +39 (0)522/224.830 artenaif@tin.it www.naives.it

MUSEO DELLAGRICOLTURA E DEL MONDO RURALEThis folk museum, in the walls of the medieval fortress of San Martino in Rio, presents an opportunity to know more about the traditions and popular culture of the rural areas around Reggio. Corso Umberto I, 22 - San Martino in Rio Tel. +39 (0)522/636.726, Fax. +39 (0)522/695.986www.biblioteca.sanmartinoinrio.re.it

MUSEO DEL TRICOLOREDocuments and relics relating to the national ag, devised in Reggio Emilia on the 7th of January, 1797, including all the changes it underwent until the end of the Napoleonic era. Also, multimedia tools to plunge even deeper in the history of the Italian tricolour. Piazza Prampolini, 1 Tel. +39 (0)522/456.477 www.tricolore.it

MUSEUMS INREGGIO EMILIA

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REGGIO EMILIA CITT DEL TRICOLORE MARATHON The worlds best runners take part in this classic marathon which starts from the old town centre and ventures into the lovely countryside surrounding Reggio. WHEN: mid-DecemberWHERE: Reggio Emilia COST: free INFO: UISP Lega Atletica Leggera Tel. +39 (0)522/267.211

ORO, INCENSO E ANTICO (GOLD, INCENSE AND ANTIQUES)A fair attracting antique dealers from all over Europe: furniture, antique objects, clocks, majolica ware, jewellery in Art-Nouveau and Art Deco style.WHEN: October and November WHERE: Exhibition centre (Fiera) in Reggio Emilia COST: approx. 8,00 euro INFO: Eventi Culturali Tel. +39 (0)522/541.714, Fax +39 (0)522/541.714

INTERNATIONAL CANOE COMPETITION ON THE RIVER ENZA In Italy, river canoeing may have only recently become a trendy sport, but canoe competitions on the river Enza are a much older tradition, established over 30 years ago. One of the most appreciated spring events around Reggio. WHEN: April WHERE: Vetto dEnza COST: freeINFO: Daniele Rufni/Davide Bergonzoni Tel. +39 (0)522/815.271 - 815.536

CONFUSION& FESTIVALThe Confusion& Festival, organised by Giovanni Lindo Ferretti, brings the Apennines around Reggio onto the global scene. WHEN: late June to August WHERE: Apennines around Reggio COST: some of the shows have an admission charge INFO: IAT Castelnovo Monti Tel. +39 (0)522/810.430

43

EVENTS IN REGGIO EMILIA

NEW YEARS INTERNATIONAL CHESS MASTER TOURNAMENTThe most important chess tournament in Italy. Only 10 among the best chess players of the world are selected for participation. WHEN: late December to the 6th of January. WHERE: Reggio Emilia - Hotel Astoria Mercure COST: freeINFO: Tel. +39 (0)522/451.152www.municipio.re.it/turismo

LOST PLANTS AND ANIMALS (PIANTE E ANIMALI PERDUTI) Plant and animal varieties cultivated and bred centuries or decades ago but now nearly extinct. One of the most interesting Italian exhibitions devoted to biodiversity. WHEN: last week-end of September WHERE: Guastalla COST: freeINFO: IAT Guastalla Tel. +39 (0)522/219.812

Modena, a town rich in culture, food, wine and prestige car-makers

44

Modena is so fascinating that it even charmed Unesco into putting three of its extraordinary beauties the Cathedral, the Ghirlandina tower and Piazza Grande onto the World Heritage List in 1997. But Modena is not only a town of great art and culture. It is also universally known for its excellent food and wine, with stars such as traditional balsamic vinegar, Lambrusco wine, and typical local salami. And of course, it is world-famous for its car-making factories. Each year Ferrari and Maserati are visited by millions of F1 fans coming from all over the planet, as far as Japan.

ART AND CULTUREHow did I do it? I think God himself inspired me. This is how Lanfranc, the architect who built the Cathedral, put it when asked how he got the idea for his masterpiece. Well, at least this is how legend has it. Whatever the real source of inspiration, the church is absolutely magnicent, one of the nest outcomes of the Romanesque period in Europe. It is entirely covered in white marble and adorned with a seemingly endless succession of columns, capitals, reliefs, statues of prophets, and mythical beasts the work of another genius of those times, the sculptor Wiligelmus. Ever since the foundation stone was laid in 1099, the cathedral has attracted thousands of visitors and tourists. The entrance to the Musei del Duomo, the Archivio Capitolare (capitular archives) and the Museo Lapidario (with stone fragments from the Cathedral) is on the north side of the church, in Via Lanfranco.The distinctively warm atmosphere that pervades every corner of Modena is palpable in the ancient cobbled Piazza Grande. During the Middle Ages, when Modena was a free city, the Piazza was used

Portico San Carlo

Cathedral

Cathedral, detail

INFO IAT Tourist ofce, Modena Tel. +39 (0)59/203.2660Cathedral (duomo) Tel. +39 (0)59/216.078 info@duomodimodena.it www.duomodimodena.it Musei del DuomoTTel. +39 (0)59/439.6969 duomodimodena@virgilio.it www.duomodimodena.it Teatro ComunaleTel. +39 (0)59/206.993 teatro.comunale@cpmune.modena.it www.teatrocomunalemodena.it Teatro Storchi Tel. +39 (0)59/206.993 biglietteria@emiliaromagnateatro.com www.emiliaromagnateatro.com

for public addresses: speakers used to stand on the massive stone block that can still be seen today, called pietra ringadora after the Italian verb arringare, to harangue. Nowadays, Piazza Grande comes alive with an incredible number of people every year on the 31st of January (the saints day of the local patron, St Geminianus) and on the Thursday before Lent, the day dedicated to Sandrone, the stock character of Modena, who every year harangues the public from the town hall balcony. The symbol of the town, however, is the 87-metre tall Ghirlandina tower, so called after the slender, elegant marble banisters that weave like garlands (ghirlande) around its Gothic spire. Twists and curves, however, seem to be a constant in Modena: the alleyways of the tight, concentric medieval centre meander tortuously and its easy to lose ones sense of direction. This is largely because during the Middle Ages Modena was criss-crossed by natural canals, and buildings and alleyways had to follow their irregular courses. However disorientating, these streets have a charm of their own: take for instance Corso Canalgrande, where, at number 85, you will nd the Teatro Comunale planned by architect Francesco Vandelli in 1838 and opened in 1841. Modena also has another 19th-century theatre, the Storchi, still bearing the original double facade.

A SPLENDID CAPITALIn 1598, Modena became the capital of the Este Duchy. The town put on her evening dress: the Palazzo Ducale was built soon after, with its grand halls, courtyards, staircases that dazzle visi-tors with their sheer beauty. Guided tours available on request.Info: Modenatur Tel. +39 (0)59/220.022 motur@modenatur.net

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MODENA

CURIOSITY

Palazzo Ducale

HANDICRAFTS

Even if the local industries are at the cutting edge of technology, especially in the automotive sector (to give just one name: Ferrari), the craftspeople of Modena have not lost their touch and still produce ne handicrafts following traditional methods, sometimes painstakingly slow, and always using top-quality materials. In and around Modena there are about 400 traditional workshops; among them, lute-makers shops making violins and other mu-sical instruments, or coopers shops producing the casks and kegs where balsamic vinegar is aged precision work, as each kind of wood and each cask size lends a different aroma to the vinegar. Another leading local craft is jewellery, and unique and precious products can be seen in the windows of the several goldsmiths shops in the old town centre. Catering to the up-market clientele, Mode-na is the right place to nd restorers of old paint-ings, books, woodwork, linen, leather and marble objects. Not to mention frame-makers, book bind-ers, upholsterers, potters, carpenters, photogra-phers and menders of woven straw seats. That the people of Modena love beautiful antiques and collectables is clear from the number and quality of antique fairs held here every year. Af-ter all, Modena has a thousand year tradition of pottery and ceramics, as you will notice from the splendour of local monuments. The local textile and clothing industries, too, have pre-industrial roots.

46

ANTIQUE FAIRSilver sugar bowls, old pictures, clocks dating from the 1950s and many other unique pieces. A stroll among the stalls of the antique market in the Parco Novi Sad is a visual treat. The fair is usually held on the fourth Saturday and Sunday of each month except July and August.Info: www.comune.modena.it/~intereco/ Antiquaria/Fieranti.htm

CURIOSITY

Galleria Ferrari

INFOConsorzio Tutela Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena Tel. +39 (0)59/316.3519 www.balsamicotradizionale.com Consorzio Produttori Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena Tel. +39 (0)59/395.633 www.balsamico.it Consorzio Lambrusco di Modena, Consorzio Marchio Storico dei Lambruschi Modenesi, Consorzio Tutela Lambrusco di Modena Tel. +39 (0)59/235.005 www.lambrusco.net www.tutelalambrusco.it Consorzio del Prosciutto di ModenaTel. +39 (0)59/343.464 www.consorzioprosciuttomodena.it Consorzio del Formaggio Parmi-giano ReggianoTel. +39 (0)59/315.915 www.parmigiano-reggiano.it Consorzio della Pera di Modena Tel. +39 (0)59/384011 confcooperative. modena@confcooperative.it

Virtual tour: www.cittadarte.emilia-romagna.it

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FOOD AND WINE

Its dark and gleaming, syrupy and thick, uniquely sweet over an unmistakeably sour undertone. Its sold in tiny, extremely expensive bottles, after aging for up to 50 years. Did you guess? Its DOP Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena, the towns most exclusive speciality. A visit to a vinegar-making farmhouse (acetaia), including an opportunity to sample the product, can be something of an experience. Purists may enjoy balsamic vinegar as such (one spoonful only!), but it is the perfect match for nely slivered Parmigiano Reggiano, risotto and other dishes, including fruit and ice-cream (ask for gelato allaceto balsamico in the ice-cream shops of the town centre). Other musts are the local salami: prosciutto (cured ham), zampone (pigs trotters, boned and lled with minced meat) and cotechino (same as zampone, but stuffed inside an animal bladder). There are a number of farms and cottages selling hand-made salami certi ed by special seals of quality, that are perfect with the typical local breads, such as tigelle (sort of small pitta breads) and gnocco fritto (fried bread dough). The king of cheeses, of course, is DOP Parmigiano Reggiano. Local fruit and vegetables, too, are noteworthy: rst of all, the Modena pear variety and Vignola cherries, highly appreciated in Italy. Chestnuts and truf es abound on the Modenese Apennines. And remember the appropriate wine: make sure its certi ed DOC, like Lambrusco Grasparossa from Castelvetro and Sorbara, or Salamino Santacroce.

MODENA

Vignola cherries

DOP Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena

Local specialitiies

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SIGHTSEEING

49

in and around Modena

CITIES OF ART Modena: Cathedral, Galleria Estense, Ghirlandina, Palazzo Ducale, Palazzo dei Musei, Piazza Grande Carpi Campogalliano Castelfranco Castel-vetro Fanano Finale Emilia Fiorano Fiumalbo Formigine Fassinoro Maranello Monteorino Nonantola Pavullo San Felice Sassuolo Sestola Spilamberto Vignola

PARKS Parco Regionale del Frignano, Parco Regionale dei Sassi di Roccamalatina

WILDLIFE RESERVES Riserva Naturale Regionale delle Salse di Nirano, Riserva Natu-rale Orientata Casse di Espansione del Fiume Secchia, Riserva Naturale Orientata di Sas-soguidano, Casse di espansione del ume panaro, Oasi delle Valli di Mortizzuolo, Oasi Faunistica Colombarone, Oasi Le Meleghine

CASTLES AND STATELY HOMES Circuit of the Este Lands (Terre Estensi): the fortresses of Vignola, Monteorino, Montese, San Felice sul Panaro; the castles of Se-stola, Formigine, Panzano, Roccapelago (Pievepelago), Spezzano (Fiorano), Montecuccolo (Pavullo nel Frignano); Castello delle Rocche (Finale Emilia); Palazzo dei Pio (Carpi)

GOLF CLUBS Modena Golf & Country Club (18 holes - Colombaro di Formigine), Golf Club Giardino Carpi (practice course)

MOTORS Modena: Galleria Ferrari (Maranello), Righini private collection of vintage cars (Castelfranco Emilia), Umberto Panini museum of vintage cars and motorbikes, Stan-guellini historical car museum (Modena). The region around Modena is also home to some of the worlds leading motor industries: Ferrari S.p.a. (Maranello), Maserati S.p.a., De Toma-so S.p.a. (Modena), Pagani (San Cesario), Circuito (Fiorano Modenese)

THEATRES Teatro Comunale di Modena, Teatro Comunale di Carpi

FOOD AND WINE TRAILS (STRADA DEI VINI E DEI SAPORI) Food and Wine Trail through Towns, Castles and Cherry Orchards (Strada dei Vini e dei Sapori Citt Castelli Ciliegi), Food and Wine Trail of the Plain around Modena (Strada dei Vini e dei Sapori della Pianura Modenese, Terre Piane)

SPA RESORTS Terme della Salvarola

WINE-PRODUCING TOWNS Sorbara, Carpi, Castelvetro di Modena, Savignano

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Modena, a town rich in culture, food, wine and prestige car-makersAround Modena

No doubt, the Modenese are some of the most so-ciable people in Italy and denitely know how to enjoy life groups of cyclists chatting and pedal-ling idly on the cycle paths leading out of town and into the countryside are a common view during the springtime. And the area around Modena is simply overowing with art and monuments: with the right information and a detailed map, a day out in the country can be transformed into a treasure hunt.

Must-sees include the 8th-century Benedictine abbey of San Silvestro in the centre of Nonan-tola, once famous for the manuscripts illuminated by the local monks. The facade is decorated with sculptures by Wiligelmus and his disciples, and its museum (Museo benedettino) holds unique pieces, such as parchments and objects used by Charlemagne, Matilda of Canossa, Otto I, Freder-ick I Barbarossa. Speaking of medieval relics (and probably you wont nd this in any other tourist guide), some portions of the country around No-nantola are still subject to one of the few forms of collective property still legally valid in Italy, the Emilian participations (partecipanze emiliane). They are large plots of land divided into parcels, jointly owned by a group of families; lots are pe-riodically drawn among the male heirs of all the families to establish which of them will become the owners of the parcels. In Nonantola, the men eli-gible for the draw are 3,000 over a total population of 12,000. The glorious past of the area around Modena has left a number of fortresses and castles in its wake. One of the nest local manors is the medieval Rocca di Vignola or Dei Contrari, origi-nally built for defensive purposes, but later turned into an aristocratic palace by the Contrari nobles, allies of the Este dynasty. It is an incredibly well-preserved castle with watchtowers, drawbridges, a moat and frescoed rooms. A few miles further up the Apennines, there is an extraordinary complex of buildings dating from the Early Middle Ages and characterised by a unique fusion of Lombard, Byzantine and French inuences: the Castle of Montecuccolo and the village and parish church

LAND OF MOTORS70-80% of the worlds motor industries is concentrated in Emilia Romagna. Modena and its surroundings hold a signicant proportion of that percent-age, with Ferrari (in Maranello), Ma-serati and Detomaso (in Modena), the Fiorano F1 racetrack and a number of museums and private collections of prestige cars and motorbikes. Info: Motorvalley Tel. +39 (0)59/218.264

CURIOSITY

Sassuolo

The castle of Vignola

The abbey in Nonantola

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(pieve) of Renno. In Sassuolo, the main sight is the baroque Palazzo Ducale, once the sum-mer residence of Francesco I dEste. It contains over 28 luxuriously decorated rooms, among which the Dukes and Duchesss apartments, the Guards hall, the Stucco apartment, some of them decorated by Bartolomeo Avanzini and Jean Boulanger. Another interesting baroque building is Villa Sorra on the Via Romea Nonantolana, surrounded by a vast 18th-century park with a small lake, stables, an orange grove and an ice-house. Museums abound in the towns around Modena.The top of the crop are the legendary Galleria Ferrari in Maranello, exhibiting vintage and contemporary examples of the famous red cars, and the Deportation museum (Museo del deportato) in Carpi, where the towered Castello del Pio is also worth seeing. Of course, there is also a museum dedicated to traditional balsamic vinegar: its in Spilamberto, whose castle was a lookout on the Panaro valley.

LOCAL SPECIALITIESOne of the most highly appreciated tours around Modena touches on vinegar-producing rms (acetaie), farmhouses making cheese, wine producers and fruit orchards. Here is a useful contact:Info: Modenatur Tel. +39 (0)59/220.022 motur@modenatur.net

CURIOSITY

INFONonantola Tel. +39 (0)59/896.555, Fax +39 (0)59/896.556 www.comune.nonantola.mo.it Vignola Tel. +39 (0)59/764.365, Fax +39 (0)59/764.311 www.fondazionecrv.it Sassuolo Tel. +39 (0)536/807.371, Fax +39 (0)536/805.527 Carpi Tel. +39 (0)59/649.213 4, Fax +39 (0)59/649.240 Fortress of Vignola Tel. +39 (0)59/ 775.246 www.fondazionecrv.it Castle of Montecuccolo Tel. +39 (0)536/324.290 www.comune.pavullo-nel-frignano.mo.it Villa Sorra Tel. +39 (0)59/896.625 959.216 www.villasorra.it Galleria Ferrari Tel. +39 (0)536/949.713, Fax +39 (0)536/949.714 www.galleria.ferrari.com www.museimodenesi.it Museo Monumento al Deportato (deportation memo-rial museum)Tel. +39 (0)59/688.272 www.fondazionefossoli.org Museo dellAceto Balsamico Tradizionale (museum of traditional balsamic vinegar)Tel +39 (0)59/781.614 www.museimodenesi.it

Spilamberto

Villa Sorra

Carpi

MUSEI CIVICI ARCHAEOLOGICAL, ETHNOLOGICAL AND ART MUSEUMSThe civic museums contain an archaeological section with prehistoric relics (among which the Neolithic nds from the sites of Fiorano and Pescale), while the art section includes a collection of works by Modenese artists span-ning from the Middle Ages to the modern era. Other exhibits include musical instruments, objects in painted and printed leather, decorations on paper, weapons, and ceramics. Viale Vittorio Veneto, 5 c/o Palazzo dei Musei Tel. +39 (0)59/203.3101 www.comune.modena.it/museoarcheologico www.comune.modena.it/museoarte

BIBLIOTECA ESTENSEThe jewel of the Este library is one of the nest illuminated manuscripts in the world, the Bible of Borso dEste, but other inestimable treasures are two an-cient maps, the Carta Catalana, the missals of Borso dEste and Anna Sforza, and the De Sphaera.P.zza S. Agostino, 337 c/o Palazzo dei Musei Tel. +39 (0)59/222.248 biblio.estense@cedoc.mo.it http://palazzodeimusei.comune.modena.it/palazzodeimusei

ARCHAEOLOGICAL PARK AND OPEN AIR MUSEUM OF MONTALES TERRAMARA This park includes the reconstruction of a Bronze Age village, labs and work-shops where students and schoolchildren can learn more about archaeology and what its like to work at an archaeological site. Via Vandelli, 552 Nuova Estense Montale Rangone Tel. +39 (0)59/532.020, Fax +39 (0)59/532.020 info@parcomontale.it www.parcomontale.it www.museimodenesi.it MUSEO DELLA BILANCIA (MUSEUM OF SCALES)The museum includes 823 weighing instruments and over 10,200 docu-ments showing the evolution of scales from ancient times to our days. There are also laboratories and multimedia stations to learn more about precision instruments. Via Garibaldi, 34a - Campogalliano Tel. +39 (0)59/527.133, Fax +39 (0)59/527.084 Museo.bilancia@cedoc.mo.itwww.comune.campogalliano.mo.it/museo www.museimodenesi.it

MUSEO DELLA REPUBBLICA PARTIGIANA (MUSEUM OF THE PAR-TISAN REPUBLIC)Not everybody knows that during WWII some of the local partisans ghting for the liberation of Italy proclaimed the town of Monteorino a republican state. This museum tells the story of the Resistance and the republic of Mon-teorino until the end of the war, through documents and everyday events. Via Rocca, 1 - Monteorino Tel. +39 (0)59/219.442, +39 (0)59/242.377, Fax +39 (0)59/214.899 istitutostorico@tin.itwww.istitutostorico.mo.it

GALLERIA ESTENSEOne of the most important Italian art collections, the Galleria Estense bears witness to the artistic and archaeological interests of the Este family. Among its exhibits are a bust of Francesco I dEste by Bernini, a portrait of the same man by Velazquez, a Madonna and child by Correggio, a triptych by El Greco, and a Crucix by Guido Reni. P.zza S. Agostino, 337 c/o Palazzo dei Musei Tel. +39 (0)59/439.5711 galleria.estense@interbusiness.it www.galleriaestense.it www.museimodenesi.it

MUSEUMS IN MODENA

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BRASS BAND INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL In the charming Palazzo Ducale and in the streets and squares of the old town centre, brass bands from all over the world perform popular themes, parades. WHEN: rst half of JulyWHERE: streets and squares of the old town centre, and some towns around ModenaCOST: admission chargeINFO: Teatro Comunale Tel. +39 (0)59/200.020

TERRA DI MOTORI (LAND OF MOTORS)Longer opening hours for vintage car and motorbike private collections, races, conventions, elegance parades. Modena, in cooperation with the lead-ing car-making industries, pays homage to the world of motors. An event attracting motor show fans from all over Italy.WHEN: April and MayWHERE: streets and squares of the old town centre, and some towns around ModenaCOST: some events are freeINFO: Modenatur Tel. +39 (0)59/220.022 www.modenatur.net

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EVENTS IN MODENA

GREAT CULINARY EVENTS Guided tours, samplings, round tables, cookery lessons, conferences, theme menus in restaurants, stage shows and gala dinners, all of them based on HRM the Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena and other local products. WHEN: spring/autumnWHERE: several towns around ModenaCOST: some events are freeINFO: local information points and tourist ofces

SAPORI E MOTORI (SLOW FOOD, FAST CARS)A series of events for motor fans: a Concorse DElegance in Salvarola Terme, the Millemiglia vintage car race, a vintage car and motorbike fair, the Modena 100 ore Classic race, a high-tech exhibition and a sports car show. WHEN: spring and summerWHERE: Castelfranco E., Modena and Salvarola Terme COST: some events are freeINFO: Teatro Comunale Tel. +39 (0)59/200.020

FESTIVAL DELLA FILOSOFIA Philosophy lectures, public discussions, readings, stage shows, exhibitions, art installations, theme dinners. WHEN: SeptemberWHERE: Modena, Carpi and Sassuolo COST: some of theevents are freeINFO: Tel. +39 (0)59/421.210 www.festivallosoa.it

JAZZ IN IT FESTIVAL A jamming festival in the old and charming Piazza dei Contrari, where Italys and the worlds most promising young jazz musicians come together to experiment with new musical languages and fuse styles. WHEN: JuneWHERE: Vignola Rocca and streets of the old town centre COST: some of the concerts are freeINFO: Culture Service of the Municipality of Vignola Tel. +39(0)59/777.707 www.comune.vignola.mo.it

Bologna, the City of Culture

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There is a saying that the Bolognese do not realize how beautiful their city is. Actually, they are well aware of it! Bologna is the result of a magical and alchemic mixture of art and culture. It has 12 city museums, 1 national museum, 4 church museums, 4 private-owned museums, 16 University muse-ums and an invaluable Jewish museum. But it is also a lively and cheerful place, brought alive by the thousands of university students who have been ocking to the Alma Mater Studiorum the oldest University in the world every year since 1088 AD, the year of its establishment.

ART AND CULTUREWhen nights get warmer and the stars come out, Piazza Maggiore puts on its summer dress: the steps in front of the Basilica of San Petronio be-come crowded with young people chatting into the night. The caf on the ground oor of the Palazzo del Podest gets its tables out so customers can sip coffee in the open air while listening to the sound of water gurgling in the 16th-century Fontana del Nettuno (whose nudes caused quite a scandal when it was unveiled). Piazza Maggiore is the right place to start exploring the heart of Bologna. Here you will nd San Pet-ronio, one of the largest Catholic churches in the world. A brass sundial, designed by the astronomer Gian Domenico Cassini in 1665, stretches along its pink marble oor. On the same square you will nd the Palazzo dAccursio, now the Town Hall, which looks rather like a fortied citadel with towers and crenellated walls. The statue of Pope Gregory XIII blesses passers-by from its front wall. The Palazzo dAccursio houses several hidden treasures. Walk through its inner courtyard to the grand staircase; on the rst oor you will nd the

Fontana del Nettuno

Piazza Maggiore

Pinacoteca Nazionale

INFO Museo Civico Archeologico Tel. +39 (0)51/275.7211 Pinacoteca Nazionale Tel. +39 (0)51/420.9411 421.1984 Teatro Comunale Infoline: 199.107.070 (from Italy only)boxofce@comunale.it IAT tourist ofce, Bologna Tel. +39 (0)51/246.541, Fax +39 (0)51/639.3171 touristofce@comune.bologna.it, www.bolognaturismo.info

Sala Ercole and the Sala Rossa, two frescoed halls overlooking Piazza Maggiore. On the second oor are the Grand Hall, a chapel (Cappella Farnese), the city art collections and the Museo Morandi named after the famous still-life painter Giorgio Morandi (his sister donated several of his works to Bologna). In Piazza Nettuno you can also enter the Palazzo dAccursio through the Sala Borsa. Marble galleries, frescoed vaults, and crystal oors over the forum of ancient Bononia (Bolognas name in the Roman age) provide a fascinating context for a busy public library, open 7 days a week from 9,00 am to midnight. The Sala Borsa is equipped with one of the largest public multimedia libraries in Europe and several PCs for Web searches.Other sights to see are: the archaeological muse-um (Museo Civico Archeologico) and its popular ancient Egyptian collection; the national gallery (Pinacoteca Nazionale), which includes works by international favourites like Giotto, Raphael, Par-migianino, Carracci, Guido Reni; the former mon-astery of San Giovanni in Monte and the small but romantic square fronting it; and the unhallowed church of Santa Lucia in via Castiglione, that is now the great hall of the University. But if you re-ally want to make the most of Bologna, just take a stroll under its porticoes, which are the longest in the world (47 km, or almost 30 miles!). Be sure to check out the picturesque alleyways around the two towers which dominate the city. (By the way, if you have good lungs and a head for heights, try climb-ing the steps that lead to the top of the tallest tower, the Torre degli Asinelli). Then, when the sun goes down, dress up and buy a ticket to one of the dozen shows or concerts staged every night in Bolognas theatres such as the Teatro Comunale, more an opera temple than just an opera house.