CLASSIFICATION OF KNITS

CLASSIFICATION OF KNITS

04/10/2023 By Sunil Talekar, Student handout-SOFT -Pune

CLASSIFICATION OF KNITSKNITTIN

G

PURLSINGLE NEEDLE

BED

COTTON PATENT

WARP

TRICOT

RASCHEL

CIRCULAR

WEFT

SEAMLESS

FLAT

V BED

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In weft knitting;• yarn is fed to knitting needles.

WEFT KNITTING

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• Needle with the help of cams, sinker make a new loop and

• passed it into previously held loops.

• Weft knitting is made using a single yarn.

• It can be made by hand knitting or by machines.

WEFT KNITTING

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Characteristics of weft knits:

• The fabric has high elasticity and stretch.

• The loops of yarn trap air which retains body heat to keep us warm.

• The right and wrong sides of the fabric look different.

• the fabrics can lose shape easily.

• Creases fall out easily.

• The fabric can unravel and ladder easily.

• Weft knitted fabrics curl up at the edges when they are cut.

TYPES OF WEFT KNITTING

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CIRCULAR KNITTING

FLAT KNITTING

Circular Knitting Machine

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Flat Knitting Machines

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WEFT KNITTED FABRIC

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Circular Knitting Machines

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In circular knitting machines needles are fixed on a cylinder or dial in a circular shape.

There are more than one feeders to feed yarn to needles at different places.

In most of the cases needle bed (cylinder or dial) moves while feeders remain stationary.

Diameter of cylinder and dial is fixed but in case of sock knitting machines it is changeable due to structure of socks

FLAT KNITTING MACHINES

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• In flat knitting machines needles are fixed on a straight plate.

• On this machine needle bed remains stationary while yarn feeding system called carriage moves from one end to other end

• This machine is used to knit collars, arm bands and sweaters

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SINGLE KNITTING

DOUBLE KNITTING

TYPES OF CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINES

SINGLE KNIT MACHINE

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• In these machines needles are fixed on cylinder

• sinker are fixed on sinker ring

• Needles knit with the help of sinkers

SINGLE KNIT MACHINE

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DOUBLE KNIT MACHINE

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DOUBLE KNIT MACHINE

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• In double knit machine needles are fixed on dial as well as on cylinders• There is no sinkers on this machine

• This machine is used to knit interlock, rib and double jerseys

SINKER

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1=Butt,2=Butt breadth,3=Height of shank,4=Buldge,5=Neb,6=Length of neb,7=Throat angle,8=Sinker platform height,9=Breadth of lower shank,10=Clearance,11=Throat

2. The sinker remains at its forward position when the needle attains its clearing position.

1. The held loop is positioned in the throat of the sinker when the sinker moves forward and the needle moves upward for clearing. The held loop is held by the throat and hence its movement along the needle is restricted.

SINKER

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4. Sinker remains in backward position and the needle descends to its lowest position drawing the new loop through the old one.

SINKER

5. Before the needle ascends, the sinker moves forward to push the knitted fabric a little and to hold the old loop away from the head of the needle and to be in a position to control the fabric.

3. The sinker retracts (pull back) when the needle comes down after feeding. At this stage, due to sinkers retraction, fabric or held loop is eased out. Also the sinker belly supported the fabric or held loop and hence its movements along the needle is prevented.

DOUBLE KNIT MACHINE

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Interlock--- Two sides are fully knitted, highly flexible used for under garments. Front and back wales are exactly at same point Rib--- two sides are fully knitted. Less flexible but have strong grip, used for neck, cuff opening and waist band. Front and back wales are not at same point Double Jersey Double side knitted, can have different designs on both sides

INTERLOCK MACHINE

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DOUBLE KNIT JACQUARD KNITTING MACHINE

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Double Knit Jacquard Knitting Machine

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Plain knitting

Loop knitting

TYPES OF SINGLE KNITTING MACHINES

SINGLE KNIT PLAIN KNITTING MACHINES

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Mostly called jersey machines. On this machines, there is a set of needles and sinkers. These machines may be single track of multi track.

From one track to six track machines are available.

These machine can knit jersey, pique, honey comb, mini jacquard

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Single Track

Multi Track

SINGLE PLAIN KNITTING MACHINES

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Track means number of cams vertically fitted

In single track machine there is only one track

This machine can knit only full knit fabric (single jersey)

SINGLE TRACK SINGLE KNIT

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In this machine there are 2-6 tracks

More number of tracks means that variety of designs can be produced

On these machine many types of fabric can be produced, like, pique, pique fleece, two thread fleece and mini jacquard

Multi Track Knitting Machine

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Multi Track Knitting Machine

LOOP KNITTING MACHINES

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In these machines we can make loop on one or on both sides of fabric.

By introducing loops we can increase the weight and bulkiness of fabric

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Terry

Fleece

Types of Loop Knitting Machines

TERRY FABRIC

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This fabric has loops on the surface, like towel but the length of loops is smaller than towels.

Normally used to make shirts of kids or for people working under high temperature to absorb the moisture

TERRY KNITTING MACHINE

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TERRY KNITTING MACHINE

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TYPES OF SINGLE KNITTING MACHINES

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SINGLE JERSEY DOUBLE FACE FABRIC

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THREE THREAD KNITTING MACHINE

This machine is used to produce fleece fabric. This fabric is plain from one side. Mostly front side is of single jersey and on back loop is inserted across various number of wales (normally two to three wales are covered).

Back side is brushed with the help of raising machine to make it more comfortable and bulky as well as warm

Two types of threads are used; fine for the top and course for back ( 30/16, 28/12 etc)

THREE THREAD FLEECE MACHINE

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FLEECE FABRIC

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STRIPER

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In stripe knitting machines we can produce horizontal stripes with the help of scissors which cuts the yarn and a new yarn is fed

There are two types of:• Mechanical• Electronic

Note: in current era there is no fresh production of mechanical strip machines

STRIPE KNITTING MACHINE

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JACQUARD KNITTING MACHINES

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These machine are available in, • Single bed• Double knit technology • Normally more than one colored yarns are

used. • Different patterns are made • Normally 4-6 color machines are available

JAC

QU

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D K

NIT

TIN

G

MA

CH

INES

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JACQUARD MACHINES

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Mechanical Jacquard

Electronic Jacquard

JACQUARD FABRIC

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FLAT KNITTING

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Single bed

Double bed

• These are latest machines and

• are used to make full length of garment

• Quite expensive

FULL GARMENT FLAT KNITTING MACHINES

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GLOVES KNITTING MACHINE

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In this machine bed rotates and carriage moves from one side to other

WARP KNITTING

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Raschel, made with latch needles,

Tricot, using bearded needles.

WARP KNITTING MACHINE

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WARP KNITTED FABRIC

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THE PROPERTIES OF WARP KNITTED STRUCTURES

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Warp knitting offers:

• Higher production rates than for weaving.• A wide variety of fabric constructions.• Large working widths.• A low stress rate on the yarn that facilitates careful

handling of fibres such as glass, aramide and carbon (particularly when using weft-insertion techniques).

• Conventional warp knitted structures that can be directionally structured.

• Three-dimensional structures that can be knitted on double needle bar raschels.

Main products • Nets• Curtains• Technical fabrics• Covers • Covering sheets

WARP KNITTING

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• Warp sheet

• Loops development with the help of needles

• Loops insertion with the help of needles

• Needle movement controls mechanically and electronically

WORKING PRINCIPLE

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• More stable than knitted • Big and small holes are possible • Many designs are possible • Highly course yarn can be used • Technical fabric can be produced

PROPERTIES OF WARP KNITTED FABRIC

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• use to fulfill technical demands, like, filters, seat covers etc

• used as curtains, table covers• used as chadar in some countries • not used for clothing

USE OF WARP KNITTED FABRIC

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WARP KNITTING

In this process;• yarn sheet is developed (warp sheet) • and then with the help of needles stitches

are formed by,• insertion new loop into old loop

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WARP KNITTING TECHNOLOGY

• Warp knitting machines--needles are mounted collectively and rigidly in a horizontal metal bar (the needle bar that runs the full knitting width of the machine).

• Equally the yarn guides are also set rigidly into a horizontal metal bar (the guide bar that runs the full width of the machine).