PowerPoint Presentation

Climbing Steps: From Casual to CompetitiveMichael Dang

Why Rock Climbing?Loved to climb higherClimbed a tree?Did monkey bars in jungle gyms?Walked the higher ledges along sidewalks?Climbing FirstsFirst time climbing at university 40 ft. wallFirst gym was Seattle Bouldering Project in Seattle, WAWanted to be join a consistent after-work sportNot interested in weight lifting gymsBreakdancing was too far and hard to scheduleClimbing has V-Scale and new problems weekly!

Milestones (Mileage May Vary)Power/Weight RatioGeneral FitnessMovement and Physicality

Starting PointAthletic backgroundBreakdancingHip Hop ChoreoParkourSkinnyV2 to V3ish range

LessonsWatched competitions and technique videos every dayWatched better climbers do their thingElegant and slowStaticPurposeful movements

First Two Weeks:V2 Consistent, V3-ishClimbed every day for 2 weeks straightMovementsShortLocked armsHopping feetSession Status1-2 hoursLots of flappers and blistersWeak tendonsQuickly pumped armsSessions end with sore body, no grip

First Month:First V4, Overhang V0-V1Movements

Session Status2 hours Fewer flappersSessions end when grip disappears

Second Month:First V5, Overhang V3-ishMovementsOne finger-pad crimpsSlopers more accessibleOpen handExtensionsDead hangsSession Status2 hoursSlower warmupsVery few or no flappersSessions now end when skin is feeling raw

Fourth Month:First V6, Overhang V4-V5Movements

Session Status3 hoursFingers starting to tweak

First Year: First V7Climbed outside for the first time at Goldbar, WANo coloured holds, feet, nor ergonomicMovements

Session Status3-4 hours

Second Year:First V8MovementsPOGOsBreathingVisualizationSession Status4 hours

By Fourth Year:First V9Logging climbs with MyClimbCompeting in CA Comps:Touchstone Climbing Series, Planet Granite Bloc Party, Vertex Climbing, Bridges Boulder BashStarted TrainingMovementsStep DynoSession Status4-5 hours

Transition to Competitive SceneGoal to climb competently at nationalsStylesRedpointOnsightStrategiesWarming upWatching others climb firstFinding your flashing levelPacing, especially for placing in finals

Training + ResultsBeginning to plateauGood movementsSingle-move blocksCrimps + Pinches + Lock-offsWeighted hangsHigh Intensity Interval TrainingCrimps + PinchesCampus boardPower + LockoffsRedpoint practiceGymnastic rings and weightsRice bucket

ResultsTCS: Ironworks 19thTCS: Metalmark 8thPG Bloc Party: Sunnyvale 13thPG Bloc Party: Belmont 10thVertex Climbing 10thTCS: Pipeworks 9thPG Bloc Party: San Francisco 18thBridges Boulder Bash 9thTCS: Dogpatch Saturday, Nov. 21st

What Im Currently DoingTraining for the final competitionNationals in January (maybe)Aiming to hit first V10 by the end of the yearOutdoor ClimbingYosemiteBishopPlanning a trip to Hueco Tanks next year!

What I Appreciate About ClimbingUniversally AccessibleAgeCountryEconomic statusBiological sex

https://youtu.be/t_2udXmARoQ?t=49

Q & A