clothes! from the american scene: i cash
TRANSCRIPT
T�� ������� ������� ������� � �������� ����� �� ��������housewives; Donald Paneth here tells the story of Henry Getoff, a memberof this ancient and honorable Jewish profession.
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JUNE 1950 CULTURE & CIVILIZATION
From the American Scene: I CashClothes!The shops of New York City's second-hand clothing dealers crowd the bottom ofElizabeth Street on the rim of Manhattan'sâŚ
by Donald Paneth
The shops of New York Cityâs second-hand clothing dealers crowd the bottom ofElizabeth Street on the rim of Manhattanâs Lower East Side, in the block belowCanal Street. The block is quiet, despite the insistent echo of heavy trucksrumbling noisily across Canal Streetâs uneven cobblestones; the Fifth Precinct,which polices the Bowery and Chinatown, is near the corner; the small shopsnestle in low, ancient brick buildings, and their proprietors buy frayed suits,coats, and trousers from old-clothes peddlers and sell them to mid-West andSouthern outlets. The peddlers are as shabby as the clothing they bear. They areold men, Jewish immigrants from Russia and Poland, who have shuffled throughthe city, clutching wrapped newspapers, crying, âI buy! Cash clothes!â for thirty,forty, fifty years. The peddlers are poorly dressed, and many need a shave. Theyare poor men.
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Henry Getoff is an old-clothes peddler. He canvasses neighborhoodsâWashington Heights, West End Avenue, Jackson Heights, the Grand Concourseâfor old clothes, calling, âBuy cash! Buy!â He carries a tightly folded newspaper(âThis is the sign I buy,â he says) and brown wrapping paper for his purchases. Itisnât an easy business. He works in all weathers, is unable to take a vacation, isconstantly liable to arrest for making unnecessary noise, and his earnings areunpredictable. âIt is a lot of walking,â he says. âAnd nothing extra in money. Justenough to get along.â
In the neighborhoods, housewives know him. When they hear his familiar cry,and they have clothes to sell, they lean from apartment windows and call, âHey,mister!â From them, Getoff buys a vest for a quarter which he resells for fiftycents, a suit for one dollar which he resells for two-fifty, a topcoat for threedollars which he resells for five. He buys only menâs clothing, womenâs stylesshift too quickly. Before he buys, he carefully examines each garment for tornlinings, moth holes, cigarette burns, and damaged collars. âMakes no differenceif itâs old and dirty,â he says. âBut it must be in good condition. Those that arenâtwe call wrecks. Junk peddlers buy them.â Near mid-afternoon each day, Getoffleaves for the market, the crowded row of shops on Elizabeth Street, where hedeals amiably and rapidly with two dealers, whom he knows particularly well.On a good day, he sells them twenty-five dollars worth of clothing. âThe dealersknow me,â he says. âAnd I know the dealers. We know what everythingâs worth.We donât try to fool each other.â
Getoff, a short, stocky man, sixty-two years old, differs in appearance from mostpeddlers. His clothes are clean, he doesnât need a shave, and his face is unlined.His hair is gray though and closely cropped, his mustache is small and fuzzy, hiseyes are alert and intelligent. He speaks English hesitantly, but capably. He hasbeen an old-clothes peddler thirty-seven years.
He is a businessman without office, inventory, or records. He has a neat cardwith his name, address, and phone number, his hours of business are 9 AM to 4PM with special evening appointments. He has many regular customers. âI havecustomers twenty-five years,â he says. âI never lose a customerâunless I donât
like him. I buy from the people in a nice way. I always try to satisfy them, and ifthey forget something in the pocket, I return it. In business, big or small, youhave to be honest.â Getoff emphasizes that he is his own boss. That is importantto him. When he arrived with his wife in the United States from Russia in 1913,he was employed for a week as a clerk in a grocery store. A religious man, heprepared to leave the store for synagogue early Friday evening. The shopkeepersaid to him, âWhatâs the matter with you, Getoff? Are you a greenhorn? InAmerica, you donât stop work for synagogue.â He quit the job abruptly, and sincethen has been self-employed.
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Each weekday morning, Getoff leaves his Bronx home on Fulton Avenue,opposite Crotona Park, and selects a neighborhood to canvass; depending on hisimpulse it may be in the Bronx, Manhattan, Brooklyn, Queens, and even LongIsland or New Jersey. He walks slowly through the neighborhood, along avenuesand down side streets, backtracking too, for five or six hours. âI like to walk,â hesays. âI like the fresh air.â As he walks, he swings his wrapped newspaper, scansapartment windows for customers, and calls, âI buy! Cash clothes!â Or, âBuycash! Buy!â All old-clothes peddlers carry a newspaper as a trade mark.âApartment houses are very high,â he explains. âA customer may not hear thecall, but she will see the paper. So she knows the old-clothes man.â In everyneighborhood, Getoff is friendly with a shoemaker, a tailor, or a druggist, withwhom he can leave his package of clothes, as it becomes too heavy for him tocarry easily. âSome peddlers must walk with the package,â he says. âThey are notacquainted with all the people as I am.â Two or three times a day, he calls hiswife at home for phone messages she may have received for him. âI call her fromthe road,â he says, âlike a doctor calls his nurse,â
In his quest for customers, Getoff is confronted with three business hazards: theweather, the police, and the holdup. Rain and snow are bad for business. âThatâswhat you call the miserable days,â he says. âHousewives donât like to call the manfrom the street. She has a nice carpet, or little children who might catch cold.â Inthe past ten years, Getoff has been arrested five or six times for making
unnecessary noise, but he has always been able to pay the one dollar or twodollars fine, and so has never passed a night in jail. Once, a policeman onWashington Heights gave him a summons for hollering before 9 AM, and whenhe appeared in court, he pleaded guilty, but with an explanation. âYour honor,âhe said, âI leave my house at nine, and I take two trolleys to the Heights. It takesme half an hour, maybe three-quarters. I could be on the Heights at nine?â Thejudge dismissed the case. The holdup is actually the least of the perils, but Getofffears it the most. He has never been robbed, but he knows several peddlers whohave been beaten for their money, a few dollars. So whenever he receives anevening call from someone he doesnât know, he asks his youngest son, Louis, tocall and check and make certain the offer to sell is legitimate.
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Getoff scrawls the last name and address of reliable and productive customers ina battered vest-pocket notebook. His customers are mostly businessmenââWorking people donât sell old clothes,â he saysâand he has known many ofthem twenty or thirty years. âOne customer by the name Sobel lives on theConcourse,â he says. âVery nice people. Heâs manager in a big concern. It must bea nice salary: they live nice and educate their children nice. Another customerlives in a hotel on West End Avenue. Heâs a rich man, a manufacturer of menâssuits. I buy from his daughter too. One woman in Yonkers I know thirty-fiveyears. She treats me like a brother. When I come, itâs âHow are you, Getoff? Takeyour coat off. Sit down.â She recommends me to many people.â
Although he is obliging, he often has small difficulties with his customers. Theymay recommend him to a sister or cousin whom he may dislike, but to whom hemust be as pleasant as possible: he cannot offend a good customerâs relative; or awoman will bargain relentlessly with him, demanding a price he cannot pay. Hehas a formula for coping with her. The clothes she offers may be worth twentydollars, but she asks fifty dollars, and since she would simply shrug if he offeredthe true value, he proposes thirty-five dollars. âGo on! Go on!â she yells. âTake awalk!â A week later, Getoff calls back, and she remembers him: she has alreadyspoken to three more peddlers, who refused to buy, and perhaps quarreled with
her, and she is willing to lower her demands. âAll right,â she says. âIâll take thirty-five dollars.â But, now prices are off, the market is down, and Getoff says twentydollarsâwhich she accepts reluctantly.
When he refers to his customers, whom he likes to observe and analyze, Getoffcustomarily divides them into two groups: woman and woman, man and man,rich people and rich people, boy and boy. âOld people from the other side whohave money think theyâre somebody because theyâre rich,â he says. âThey lookdown on you. They show they donât like to deal with a peddler. Then, there arerich people with education. They give me a chair and on a hot day a cold drink.They have feeling. They have consideration. A boy is twenty years old. He talksto me nice, he doesnât get excited. A boy is thirty-five. Maybe, heâs not so bad,but he gets excited. This is in him already. Heâs an old bachelor, and heâs got toomuch on his mindâwhy he didnât marry. Probably heâs disappointed.â
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Getoff leaves the neighborhood with his package for the market about 2 PM. Atfive and nine Elizabeth Street, the peddlers have lockers in which they keep theclothes they are unable to sell immediately. Nine Elizabeth Street is a store withan unwashed window and two signs: âRestaurantâHome Cookingâ and âTailorâAll Repairs.â Inside, the store is long and narrow and dimly lit, the woodenfloor is bare and dirty, a long, narrow counter for resting packages is at the right.Nearly one hundred lockers crowd the walls from floor to ceiling. They are deep,two feet by two feet, and rent for one dollar to three dollars a month; the lockersnearest the ceiling are the cheapest. The tailor and restaurant, with four tablesand a perpetual pinochle game, are in back.
Peddlers crowd the store in the afternoon. Activity is intense with muchmovement and loud conversation in Yiddish and English. In a corner, onepeddler offers another peddler a suit. âThis is a good suit,â he says. âSharkskin.ââI give you two dollars.â âTwo dollars? Ha! I take it home with me.â âOK, two-fifty. Your own brother wouldnât give you more. Would I fool you?â âListen, whatthe hellâs the matter with you? If you want it, buy itâat a fair price. If you donât
want it, I donât feel bad. I sell it.â At a locker, a short, pudgy peddler sortsclothing as he comments hoarsely to his neighbor about a mutual acquaintance:âThat guy is a crook. I know him. Heâs no good for nothing. Heâs crazy. Him withall his money. He works Saturday, he works Sunday, he works Yom Kippur. Bigshot! He oughta be on Fifth Avenue. I donât talk to him no more. He can dropdead for me.â Near the door, a tall, stooped, grumbling man, an alcoholic fromthe Bowery, a block away, attempts to sell a ragged garment to a peddler. âLookat that label,â he says. âThat aloneâs worth fifteen cents. I hate to tell you what Ipaid for this shirt originally. Eight dollars. Eight dollars. And now I canât getfifteen cents for it. But I could buy a suit or coat here cheap as hell. For fiftycents a suit that I could pawn for two dollars. I know. Iâve done it.â
Getoff is friendly with most of the peddlers, and speaks to them whileunwrapping his clothes, before going into the market; among them, the timelessquestion is, âWhatâve you got?â This is what they talk about. âOne peddler,âGetoff says, âI used to go partners with, and split profits. Heâs mine age. Hecomes from Poland. I would have the money. He would have the customer. Iappeal more to women than him. Weâre still friends.â
The tight row of dealersâ shopsâthe marketâcrowds the street outside NineElizabeth. âThe market was here when I came,â Getoff says. âAnd I knowpeddlers ninety years old, who have been here sixty-five years. They say themarket was here when they came.â Getoff sells his clothes to two dealers, whooperate small, cluttered shops, where clothing is piled on high, huge shelves; inthe fall and winter, he sells them winter suits, top coats, and shoes. (Summer isthe slow season with little to buy and sell.) One of the dealers is sixty-five yearsold, he comes from Vilna; the other is fifty-eight, he comes from Kiev. âTheyâreplain Yiddish men,â Getoff says. âThey have a nice family. Plenty of money. Theydeal nice.â They remodel and clean and sell the clothes that they buy to retailersfrom Detroit, Cleveland, Des Moines, Dallas, Atlanta, Savannah, Birmingham,where they are sold eventually to farm and factory workers.
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Henry Getoff, old-clothes peddler, was born on July 16, 1887 in Lubin, Russia, asmall, hilly city of twenty thousand in the Ukraine. He was the son of Tuba, areligious, charitable, simple woman, and Louis Getoff, a friendly, unexcitable,goodnatured flour dealer. Getoff had two brothers, Zalman and Jacob, and threesisters, Fanny, Bella, and Ida; they lived in a stucco, three-room house on theedge of Lubin, near a small lake, where townswomen washed clothes andfetched water, and boys, like himself, fished and boated and swam. âIt was quietand pretty,â Getoff says. He studied the Bible and Talmud at a small school inLubin from his sixth to his twelfth year, and then looked for work. âIn the littlecity there was nothing to do,â he recalls. âI went to Kiev.â From fourteen totwenty-one, he traveled about the Ukraine, from Kharkov to Odessa to Kiev. âIwas in all kinds of business,â he says. âDifferent business every year.â In Kharkov,he sold flowers; in Odessa, he worked in a shoe factory and was a rope salesman;in Kiev, where he lived five years, he owned an appetizing store, which soldprunes, salmon, figs, dates, white fish.
âKiev was wonderful,â he says. âA clean, beautiful city with factories of all kinds.I felt nice in Kiev. It was something new and interesting. In a shop window onthe widest boulevard was a solid gold lionâan advertisement. In all of Russia, Inever saw such. Just in Kiev. Also, businessmen made a good living. Some Jewshad permits to live there, but small people like me had a politician. I paid himone dollar a week for a certain paper.â But life in Kiev was not entirely pleasant.In 1904, when he was seventeen, he was one of two hundred Jewish men andyouths who fought a pogrom mob; a pistol bullet wounded him in the neck, andhe was hospitalized three months. âBoys were men in the old country,â he says.âLife learned us quickly. We supported ourselves. Not like in America, where aboy may be good in school, but nothing else.â
When Getoff was twenty-one, he returned to Lubin and avoided conscription inthe Czarâs army through the intervention of a physician. âHe was a familyfriend,â Getoff explains. âAnd the head doctor for conscription. He did a favor,and overlooked me. He was an honest man. He took no money.â Then, Getoffmarried Bessie Platkin, a young bakerâs daughter, whom he had known as achild. âBusiness in Russia was not good,â he says. âIt was bad for Jews. There
were always pogroms, and you couldnât go to the university. Only rich Jews couldlive in Moscow or St. Petersburg. This makes me come to America.â He and hiswife sailed in 1913 from a Latvian seaport aboard an old German freighter,jammed with seventeen hundred immigrants; his sisters, who married, and hisbrothers, who went into business, remained in Russia, and he hasnât had a letterfrom them since 1938. The transatlantic voyage in rough seas took twenty-onedays. âI will never forget how bad it was,â he says. âWe were all seasick terrible.Everyone was praying the ship shouldnât go down.â
In New York, he stayed for two weeks with an uncle in the Bronx, on ThirdAvenue between 173rd and 174th Streets two blocks from where he now lives. Heworked a week in a grocery, and meanwhile met an old-clothes peddler, who toldhim, âYouâre a young man; better to be in my business. Itâll keep you out in thefresh air.â T didnât want to work in the garment shops,â Getoff says. âThe pay wastoo low. So I went in this business.â He then attended night school for threeweeks to study English. He enjoyed the school. âThey teach the foreigners sogood,â he says. âThey learn us to read, to talk, to everything. They explain thepeople very nice. I see it was a mistakeâI should go at least a year in school. Itwould be better for me. But, I was a married man; my wife didnât like to be aloneat night.â
Getoff liked the United States too. âI was happy,â he says. âThe difference wasday and night. Russia was miserable, but here children went to high school, Jewswere doctors and lawyers, you could open a shop wherever you want. It appealsto me very good.â He became a citizen in 1935. As a peddler, he learned quickly:he became acquainted with dealersâ needs and prices and he slowly acquiredcustomers about the city. He would stop people in the street, and ask them ifthey had any old clothes to sell; if they didnât he would give them his card withhis address. He didnât have a telephone then; his customers sent him postcards.âWhen I was starting,â he says, âI used four or five dealers. I didnât know thevalue of clothes, and when they gave me a price, I didnât know if it was right. Mydream was that I should be a dealer, but I never could collect enough money toopen a shop.â
Though he needed business, Getoff never worked on Saturday, when he went tosynagogue, or on Sunday, when he might be arrested for hollering on theSabbath. He took his religion seriously, and regularly attended Friday eveningand Saturday morning services. âI was religious when I was young and now I amthe same thing,â he says. âThere is a God. I believe in it. God is whatever I seeârain and snow and earth and mountains. who could make it but God?â In 1917he and ten friends formed the Congregation Sabbath Observers of the Bronx;today Getoff is vice-president of the congregation, which has sixty members, itsown synagogue, and two small cemeteries in New Jersey.
In 1918 and 1924, his two sons, Hyman and Louis, were born. âMy father wasvery giving,â Louis says. âHe didnât have much, but he never held back anything.When it snowed, he built snowmen with us in Crotona Park, and every night heplayed checkers with Hy, who usually lost. Pa was good at checkers.â Getoffinsisted his sons should be educated. Hy was graduated from City College andNew York Universityâs Law School; during the war, he served in armyintelligence on New Guinea, and he is now an attorney in Los Angeles. Louis,who was an army sergeant in India, also attended City College; he is a clinicalpsychologist, studying for his doctorate at Columbia University.
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Getoff âs wife, a short, stout, gregarious woman, recalls that the old-clothesbusiness was never particularly lucrative. âItâs a bad business for money,â shesays. âSometimes, Iâd yell at him: âHenry, you are a dope. Why are you in such abusiness? Itâs lousy rotten.â Afterwards I would feel bad. He is a good man.âGetoff earned the most money during the 20âs when he sold sixty or seventydollarsâ worth of clothing a day; now thirty dollars a day is excellent. âNow isworse than after the first war,â he says. âChina used to take fifteen million oldhats a year. No more. Turkey, Russia, Bulgaria, Hungary used to take also. Butno more.â During the depression, people didnât sell old clothes, and Getoff wascontinually in debt to loan companies. âMy father wouldnât consider relief,âLouis says. âI tried to explain to him the obligation of the state. But he wouldnâtlisten.â To simplify business, Getoff installed a telephone in 1934, and at first his
wife wouldnât answer it when she was at home alone; âI was green,â she says. âIwas scared of it.â In 1936, to stimulate business, he started to send postcards tofamilies who published obituaries in the New York Times. He didnât like tocollect clothing from bereaved wives and children, but it was a source; finally,the technique spread, and in 1942, when a woman in his apartment house,whose husband was killed in an automobile accident, received a dozen postcardsfrom old-clothes peddlers, he decided to abandon it.
Thirteen years ago, he spurred another change, a permanent one, within histrade: he helped organize the Used Clothing Dealers Association, to which onehundred and fifty peddlersâall of those in the cityânow belong. âWe needed anassociation to benefit peddlers,â he says. Members pay twenty-five cents a weekdues and the association retains a lawyer, pays court fees, and lends needy or illpeddlers up to two hundred dollars. Getoff is a trustee and chairman of the loanfund, and twice a month on Thursday evening he attends a Board of Directorsmeeting at 151 Clinton Street. The board ordinarily considers routine business: arequest for a loan, a proposal for a banquet, the collection of dues. But recentlyit faced a new and unexpected problem: the charity racket, in which anindividual obtains a âpermitâ for five dollars from certain yeshivas, and ringsdoorbells for contributions of old clothing, which he pawns or sells. In Januaryone hundred and fifty peddlers held a protest meeting. âSome yeshivas do notcare,â Getoff declared angrily at the meeting. âThey have the five dollars.â And amonth ago, he met with several yeshiva rabbis, who said, âThis is unbelievable,âand assured him they would investigate.
In his trade, Getoff is known as âThe Professor.â Peddlers respect him as a leaderand as the father of a lawyer and a doctor. He is serious, quiet, energetic, andassiduous. âHe is a medium nature,â his wife says. âNot bad, not good. He getsexcited when I ask for more money. But heâs not stingyâhe doesnât have it. He isa good husband: he doesnât look on other womens, and heâs kind. He doesnât playcards, but he likes his schnapps. He gets high on all the Jewish holidays.â Andalthough he is essentially quiet, he is expansive at parties, weddings, anddinners, where, with the provocation of schnapps, he may make a speech, dance,or sing a Hebrew song.
When he leaves the Elizabeth Street market at 4 PM each day, he takes the ThirdAvenue El home to the Bronx. âMy trade is all right,â he says. âI made a living. Iraised my children. Now, young people are not becoming peddlers. Thisgeneration doesnât like it. Maybe the next willâif it doesnât, the trade dies.âGetoff âs five-room apartment, overlooking Crotona Park, is small and cluttered.âBut, itâs comfortable,â he says. âA home. This is the best pleasure.â He eatssimple suppers, enjoying soup, meat or chicken, and potatoes most; he doesnâtlike dairy foods. In the evening, he rests. He has low blood pressure, but herefuses to see a doctor. âWhen itâs my time to go, Iâll go,â he says. He reads theJewish Day and Morning Journal, but he no longer reads Sholom Aleichem,Tolstoy, or Gorki; he sleeps instead. Nor does he walk after supper, as he used to,and on a warm, sunny Saturday or Sunday, he likes to sit quietly in the greenpark opposite his house. âI am not a lawyer or a doctor,â he says. âWhen it isFriday already, I am tired.â
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