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Collections Edited By Fondazione Acimit

″STRATEGIES OF CONOMY″

THE TEXTILE MACHINERY INDUSTRY IN ITALY:STRATEGIC, COMMERCIAL, FINANCIAL BEHAVIOURS(April 1997)

THE TEXTILE MACHINERY INDUSTRY IN THE 2000’s:HYPOTHESIS, SIMULATION GAMES, TREND OF THE RELATED SCENARIOS(November 1997)

THE CRISIS OF ASIAN TEXTILE SECTOR AT THE BEGINNING OF 2000 YEARS (November 1998)

TEXTILE MACHINES:THE COMPETITION OF THE EMERGING COUNTRIES(December 1999)

″PUBLICATIONS FOR THE SCHOOLS″

THE ITALIAN TEXTILE MACHINERY INDUSTRY, TODAY:CHARACTERISTICS, RAW MATERIALS, TECHNOLOGIES(December 1999) available also on CD Rom

REFERENCE BOOKS OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY:WEAVING(October 2000) available also on CD Rom

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ByGiovanni CastelliSalvatore MaiettaGiuseppe SigrisiIvo Matteo Slaviero

fondazione

ACIMITItalian Association of Textile Machinery Producers Moral Body

Via Tevere 1, 20123 Milano (Italy)Phone: +39 024693611, fax +39 0248008342e-mail: info@acimit.it − web site: www.acimit.it

Published in October 2000

All reproduction, even partial and using any means, is prohibited by

law and in accordance with relevant international agreements.

English translation: Ermanno Passaquindici

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Introduction

I am pleased to introduce the first of a series of four ″Reference Books″ about textile machinery technologies, whichthe ACIMIT Foundation decided to offer to the Italian textile institutes.

The subjects of this Reference Book are machines, accessories, ancillary equipment and technologies related to″Weaving″, a sector in which Italy boasts the presence of top−ranking companies offering worldwide a state-of-the-artknow-how.

This Reference Book concerning ″Weaving″ will be followed in the year 2001 by three other References Booksreserved to ″Knitting″, ″Spinning″ and ″Finishing.

The exigence of realizing these Reference Books originated from a series of meetings which the ACIMIT Foundation− within various initiatives aimed at developing their relations with the educational bodies - decided to start up in co-operation with the headmasters and the teaching staff of the textile institutes.

ACIMIT Foundation had been informed in fact that the editions which are presently used as textbooks in theseinstitutes do not keep up any more with the continuous and rapid technological development characterizing this sectorin last years.

Consequently, to comply as much as possible with the learning needs of the students, the ACIMIT Foundationthought it advisable, in agreement with the headmasters of the various institutes, to entrust the realization of theReference Books to a group of teachers of these institutes, who accepted with great enthusiasm this not easy task.

The Italian textile machinery producers wish therefore to thank sincerely the headmasters and teachers of theseinstitutes, from which they draw precious resources for the development of their own enterprises.

As nothing is born perfect, we shall be sincerely grateful to everybody concerned (students, teachers, companytechnicians, etc.) for any suggestion and correction, which will enable us to improve our work and make it more andmore profitable.

Alberto M. Sacchi, President, ACIMIT Foundation

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AcknowledgmentsACIMIT Foundation feel bound to thank the headmasters and the teachers offollowing Institutes:

• ITIS Buzzi, Prato • ITIS Carcano, Como• ITIS Casale, Torino • ITIS Facchinetti, Castellanza (VA)• ITIS Leonardo da Vinci, Carpi (MO) • ITIS Leonardo da Vinci, Napoli• ITIS Marzotto, Valdagno (VI) • ITIS Paleocapa, Bergamo• ITIS Sella, Biella • ITIS Varese, Varese

Without the helpfulness and the efficient co-operation of the headmasters andteachers of above Institutes, the editing of these Reference Books wouldnever have been possible.

In particular, the draft of the ″Weaving″ Reference Book was performed byfollowing teachers:

prof. Giovanni Castelli ITIS Vareseprof. Salvatore Maietta ITIS Vareseprof. Giusepe Sigrisi ITIS Carcanoprof. Ivo Matteo Slaviero ITIS Marzotto

who devoted to it time and enthusiasm and deserve the warmest thanks of theACIMIT Foundation.

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Index

Introduction........................................................................................................................................... page 8Warping ................................................................................................................................................″ 9Creels ....................................................................................................................................................″ 9Sectional warping .................................................................................................................................″ 12Beam warping.......................................................................................................................................″ 18Direct beaming......................................................................................................................................″ 20Sample warping ....................................................................................................................................″ 21Sizing ....................................................................................................................................................″ 21Preparation of weaving machines .........................................................................................................″ 24Weaving machines................................................................................................................................″ 28Rapier weaving machines ....................................................................................................................″ 29Projectile weaving machines ................................................................................................................″ 36Air jet weaving machines .....................................................................................................................″ 42Water jet weaving machines .................................................................................................................″ 45Special weaving machines ....................................................................................................................″ 47Bearing structure of a weaving machine ..............................................................................................″ 54Warp let-off and fabric take-up ............................................................................................................″ 55Shedding machines ...............................................................................................................................″ 57Drive and control of weaving machines ...............................................................................................″ 64Other equipment ...................................................................................................................................″ 66Weft feeders..........................................................................................................................................″ 70Weft and warp control ..........................................................................................................................″ 71Selvedges ..............................................................................................................................................″ 75Production control and analysis in the weaving rooms ........................................................................″ 77Multimediality and Internet in weaving................................................................................................″ 82Air conditioning plants .........................................................................................................................″ 83The hazards in the textile industry .......................................................................................................″ 84Fabric defects and machine setting problems .......................................................................................″ 88Cost accounting .................................................................................................................................... ″ 91