Colour correction 2012

Emotions 0Disown client 0Pressure 0Confusion 0Where do you start

Break it down 0Write it down 0Plan

Who has colour correction

0Regular clients who want a change 0Sun bleached 0 ‘do it yourself clients’ 0Bands of colour 0Light to dark0Change tone0Dark to blonde 0Root glare 0Over highlighted

How to get the information from a client

0Open Questions0 What0 Who0 When0 Why

0Listen 0Body Language

What do we need to consider

What you need to

consider

Texture/ porosity

Is it realistic

Can it be achieved

Expectations

Time factor Ability of the hairdresser

Will it last

Cost

Under promise and over achieve- be realistic

Colour family's 0Perfecton by colour fresh 0Colour fresh 0Colour touch 0Special Mix0Sunlight's0Relights 0Colour touch plus 0Koleston perfect 0Special blonde 0Special mix0Magma 0Blondor

Restoring depth and tone

Comb through

Minimum fade- replace tone 0Root application 0Dampen hair gently and massage the colour 0Working from crown area take a section of the hair

and work the colour through the mid lengths and ends with a comb

0Continue this method through the rest of the hair

Medium/maximum colour fade Colour touch

0Section the hair from ear to ear 0Apply colour from roots through to the mid lengths

and ends using a flask 0Work the colour into the hair using the hands 0Rinse off excess colour after development time

Koleston rinse normal to porous hair, replace depth and tone

015-30ml tint 015ml 9%welloxon perfect 060ml warm water 0Mix and apply on completion of regrowth application 0Develop as normal

Anti fade colour bath replace depth and tone on very porous hair

Stage one 015ml of tint 045ml warm water 0Mix and apply on completion of re growth application 0Develop as normal

Stage two0Mix 10ml 9% welloxon

040ml warm water

0Apply to lenghts and ends

0Develop for a further 5 minutes

Lightening techniques

Cleansing rinse

0The hair is pre shampooed to open the cuticle 0Blondor multi blonde powder and warm water are

mixed together to a pouring consistency 0Apply this to the hair with a sponge or a brush 0The hair lightens over the development time 0Shampoo and post treatment 0The hair is now ready to be recovered 0Good for removing unwanted tone

Cleansing shampoo

0 The hair is pre shampooed to open the cuticle 0 Mix 30 grams of blondor powder 0 30mls 6% welloxon 0 60mls warm water 0 15mls shampoo0 This is applied to the hair with a brush or sponge to required

areas0 The hair lightens over the development time- visual up to 20

mins 0 Shampoo and apply post treatment 0 The hair can now be recoloured

Mild Lightener

0 Mix 1 part of blondor multi powder and 3 parts welloxon perfect pastel developer

0This is applied to the hair with a brush to the required areas

0The hair lightens over the development time before being shampooed away, 50 mins without heat or 25 mins with heat- but stay and visual check

0Shampoo and post treatment 0Hair can then be recolored

Removing bands

0Mix 10/0 KP in normal way 0Apply to dark areas 0Develop up to 60 mins without heat (30 mins with)0When sufficient lift has been achieved (warm in tone),

comb off excess with large tooth comb, leaving approximately 20% tint on the hair

0Now colour to your target colour

Pre Pigmentation Perfecton (under colour fresh)

Colour touch (under colour touch)

Koleston (under Koleston)

10 /3 /34 0/33

9

8

7 /43

/45

0/43

6

5

4 /44 0/45

3

2

Neat to diluted 40mls 5-15 mins

5-10mls- 60mls 1.9% 5-30cm to 60mls warm water

Natural- Minimum vibrant red- Max

Rich natural- min-med Deep brown- med-max

Problems and causes Problem Cause Remedy

Colour to dark

Patchy dark

Too red

Patchy light

Colour to light

Colour to ash (green)

Not light enough

White hair not covered

Not red enough

Root glare

Colour banding

Bleach too warm(orange)

Problem Cause Remedy

Colour to dark Wrong colour choice Left on to long Too low peroxide

Cleansing shampoo

Patchy dark Porous hairIncorrect application

Mild lightener 10/0

Too red Depth to lightTo high peroxide To much tone

Post pigment treatment Cleansing rinse

Patchy light Application uneven Re apply and tone

Colour to light Left on to long Incorrect application (over lapped)

Pre pig and tone

Colour to ash (green) Wrong tone used Not pre pigmented when going from light to dark

Post pigment with redCleansing rinse

Not light enough Wrong peroxide Not left on long enough

Reapply 10/0

White hair not covered Not applied correctly Wrong base

Re apply

Not red enough Wrong depth Wrong tone Colour applied on to darker depth

Post treatment

Root glare Coverage over grey Incorrect application

Reapply Cleanse ends

Colour banding Overlapped Wrong colour used on previous root application

10/0Mild lighter

Bleach too warm(orange) Not left on long enough Re lightener Add blue to it

Case studies

7/0 10/0

Target colour 6/43

6/0

6/7 4/0

Target colour 6/7

7/0 10/0

Target shade 6/43

Pre pig ends with Koleston 0/43 (30cm)After 15 mins blot dry Then apply 6/43 20 vol roots to ends

Or colour touch mid lenghts and ends

Or anti fade colour bath

6/0

6/7 4/0

Target Shade 6/7

Mild lightener on the 4/0Then apply 6/7 20 vol KP or C.T 1.9% on roots On ends apply 6/71 C.T and 0/88 SM to kill undertones