competing in a global environment a story of creativity, ambition and values herman van de velde...
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Competing in a global environment
A story of creativity, ambition and values
Herman Van de VeldeManaging Director
Van de Velde NV
From craftsmanship to industrial production
1919: Foundation Van de Velde
Achiel and Margaretha Van de Velde Pioneers 1st product: ladies corsets with an eye for quality
distribution through retailers
From craftsmanship to industrial production
1919: Foundation Van de Velde
Achiel and Margaretha Van de Velde
pioneers
distribution through retailers
2nd generation:
use of elastic materials
from the 40’s onwards retail in Belgium and the Netherlands
Extension of assortment
– Fashion
– Marketing-driven
– Delocalization of production
– Cultural change
– Governance change
Change VdV business model
Change business model: Fashion
Design department - Team of 50 people (stylists, textile engineers, pattern
makers, etc.)- 500 new styles per year- 20.000 SKU’s- Combination of fashion and fit
The VdV Design process
Ideadevelopment
Project PhaseIdea Phase Production Phase
Project development
PreliminaryDesign
Market test
Feasibility Study
ProjectDefinition
BaseDesign
Sales cycle
DetailDesign
ProductionRelease
Delivery toshops
Master plan Re-orders
Change business model: Marketing-driven
Focus-strategy - Product: lingerie
- Luxury Segment (= price segment)
FOCUS: choice of market segmentSegmentation of the lingerie market
80 % 70 %
< EURO 20STANDARD
Hunkemöller, Etam
< EURO 20 – 50MIDDLE
< EURO 50 - 100LUXURY
MJ, PrimaDonna, MJ l’Aventure
> Euro 100Sarda20 %
30 %
Northern Europe
Southern Europe
Change business model: Marketing-driven
Focus-strategy - Product: luxury lingerie
- Price Segment
- Distribution channel
FOCUS: choice of distribution channel
Distribution channel % total market Positioning Van de VeldeSpecialized retailers 28 to 50 % XLuxury department stores and chains 7 to 21 %
Department stores X Chains -
Supermarkets and food 50 to 24 % -Mail order 15 to 5 % -
Retail investments
- USA: Intimacy - 17 shops- Turnover 38,4 mio USD
- Germany & Spain: Oreia- Spain : 1 shop- Germany: 6 shops
- Holland: Linchérie- 42 independent stores- Turnover 22 mio EUR
Retail investments
- England: Rigby & Peller- 7 stores in and around London− ‘Bra Fitting’ (Lingerie Styling). − Turnover 2011: 10,1 m£
- Hong Kong / China : Private Shop− 22 stores in Hong Kong and China− Estimated turnover 2011: 8 m$− Joint venture between Getz and Van de Velde
Change business model: Marketing-driven
Focus-strategy - Product: luxury lingerie
- Price Segment
- Distribution channel
- Geographic focus
- Brands instead of private label
Brand policy instead of private label
1981: Marie Jo
1990: PrimaDonna
1997: Marie Jo L’Aventure
2008: Marie Jo Intense
2009: Andres Sarda – Sarda by Andres Sarda
2010: PrimaDonna Twist
Marie Jo is timeless elegance & discrete luxury
Marie Jo offers an unmatched mix of passion for fashion, innovation,
quality and fit
Marie Jo has a unique and universal signature
“Haute Lingerie”
Pure but creative, stylish and mature lingerie
Closely related to Marie Jo and equal in fit and quality
“Lingerie Pure”
PrimaDonna offers a world of ultimate perfection, fashion,
luxury and fit
Secure up to the finest details without any compromise
Fashion & fit go hand in hand in a wide size range from B till
H-cup
“Exigez l’excellence”
‘Créateurs’ label within the luxury segment
Very sophisticated collections in lingerie and swimwear
For the self confident, independant and powerful woman
Change business model: Delocalization
Two tendencies
Centralization of core competencies
Delocalization of production
Change business model: Delocalization
Centralization of core competencies
– Strategy and policy
– Design
– Quality control raw materials
– Cutting of the fabric
– Core production Belgium
– Quality control and expedition
Van de Velde: changing organisation
Before: Taylorist organisation
• Centralism, control, hierarchy• Little room left for HR• Piece work• Specialization• Repetitive work• Transactional leadership
Van de Velde: changing environment
1. Globalisation
2. Fashion driven
3. Difficulties to attract people
Evolution towards innovation driven organisation
• Lowering the brainline• Teamwork• Polyvalency• Expanding job content• Stimulating initiative• Coaching leadership / Transforming leadership• Different reward and compensation systems• Stimulate enthusiasm and passion