products of procrastination

BA (hons) Cordwainers Footwear: Product Design and DevelopmentConcept Development

Sophia Guggenberger GUG09272811

Word Count 4323PPD Statement can be found in Appendix 12

TABLE OF CONTENTS1. Concept 22. Brand Statement 33. Brand Identity 4 3.1. Name 43.2. Logo 54. Hand Me Up 6 4.1. Craft Central 6 4.2. Rachel Eardley 6 4.3. The Maker 85. Partners in Crime 10 5.1. Tracey Neuls 12 5.2. Rosa Mosa 14 5.3. Trippen 166. Consumer 18 6.1. Essential Mindset 18 6.2. Customer Profile – Made- to- Order 18 6.3. Customer Profile - Bespoke 207. Market Position 22 7.1. Macro- Environment 22 7.2. Micro- Environment 247.2.1. Customisable products 247.2.1. DocMartens 26 7.3. Market Level 26

8. Design Inspiration 30 8.1. Map 30 8.2. Details 34 8.3. Movement 429. Range Overview 4810. Supply Chain 50 10.1. Materials 50 10.2. Production 50 10.3. Distribution 5110.3.1. Online 5110.3.2. Bespoke 5110.3.3. Craft Exchange 5111. Conclusion 5212. Bibliography 54 12.1. Books 54 12.2. Videos 55 12.3. Online Resources 5613. Images 57

APPENDIX

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1. Concept

This concept deals with the creation of a small brand advocating a return to quality and individuality. The footwear market is filled with big company's dominating the market and dictating the industry, for some time now smaller companies have started to prosper and man-age to establish themselves within niche markets. The brand seeks to follow this and take the concept of over- production apparent in the present market to its opposing extreme. On one hand this will involve beautifully hand-crafted shoes on a one- off basis, which will form the front of the business representing the passion for craftsmanship and limitless imagination involved in the development of these items. On the other hand there will be a range of made-to-order designs, which will serve as the “backbone” of the brand.The materials used will be sourced locally to avoid high transport costs and facilitate more transparency throughout the supply chain. This also seeks to support local business and protect the environment.Focus will be on working within a community, not only to sustain a more easily controllable level of quality, but also to counteract notions of outsourcing to cheap- labour countries and thereby exploiting the less fortunate for financial gain. A high regard to traditional craft and a socially sustainable way of production will be the main focus.

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2. Brand Statement

When the maker's (fixer's) activity is immediately situated within a community of use, it can be enlivened by its kind of direct perception. Then the social character of his work isn't separate from its internal or “engineering” standards, the work is improved through relationships with others. It may even be the case that what those standards are, what perfection con-sists of, is something that comes to light only through these iterated exchanges with others who use the product, as well as other craftsmen in the same trade. Through work that has this social character, some shared conception of the good is

lit up, and becomes concrete.(Crawford, 2010: 187)

The brand 'Kleinod – Products of Procrastination' seeks to accomplish exactly the relationship mentioned above, between maker, user and product. Believing in a way of working which involves the community in order to establish a bond and never ending exchange be-tween the people living in it. In order to achieve this goal, the brand takes inspiration from its immediate surroundings and environment, crafting shoes which reflect the cities and spaces we inhabit, thereby creating special items which tell a story with a unique style rather than following trends.Next to the creation of original, individual and high- quality footwear, the brand seeks to question the value system held in Western soci-ety, which through its consumption behaviour, accepts over- production of goods and thereby the waste of essential natural and human resources, thereby destroying local businesses, our own communities and traditional knowledge passed on by generations of craftsman.Acknowledging these essential factors, the brand seeks to establish sustainable and ethical production as norm and advocates small and considered manufacture as opposed to a system based on fast fashion expiring after a blink of an eye.

'Kleinod – Products of Procrastination' sees itself as a piece of the puzzle reminding people of what is possible if we respect our own communities and the environment we live in.

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3. Brand Identity

3.1. Name

Kleinod – Products of Procrastination

Kleinod is a German word originating from the Middle Ages, back then it was used to refer to such things as the adornment on a knights helmet or the insignia of a king, up to this day it is used to describe a piece of jewellery. Today it is mostly used for something which is not of high value to anybody but the owner who has a personal connection to it.Within all its different uses, however, the word 'Kleinod' is always used to describe something treasurable.It reflects the values of the brand, as it seeks to establish a special relationship between the wearer, the shoe and the designer, to create something which is precious and special in every way. As time went by and language evolved the word has become endangered from the German language and is no longer used very often, with many people, especially younger ones, not being aware of its meaning. This resembles a certain similarity to craftsmanship, in a world where technology becomes more and more important and traditional skills become more and more endangered to be lost in the pursuit for never ending innovation.

'Products of Procrastination' seeks to communicate the brands passion for day- dreaming and the fact that creation is not what one has to do but is rather something that one loves and enjoys doing. It implies that ideas quite often come then, when least expected, maybe exactly the moment when one is meant to do something completely different.

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3.2. Logo(See Appendix 1)

products of procrastination

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4. Hand Me Up

4.1. Craft Central

Craft Central gives everyone the chance to discover a world of craft and design that is more extensive, more inspiring and more accessible than most could ever imagine.

(http://www.craftcentral.org.uk, 2011)

Craft Central is the name of a non- profit organisation in the heart of London supporting people working in craft and seeking to be part of a network in order to sustain their passion and business. The organisation runs events at their two locations in Clerkenwell Green, which are filled with workshops rented by small businesses, in order to promote their passion for the hand-made.The existence of a com-munity like this is an excellent indicator for a rising notion to create things manually with a more personal and individual take than on the high- street.

4.2. Rachel Eardley

This small company run by Rachel Eardley specialises in the creation of jewellery pieces. There is a mini- range of jewellery inspired by doves available on the website. Focus however lies on the wonderfully made pieces from old coins the designer found and started col-lecting, which are then hand- cut and finished with silver in the designers studio. Everything from bangles and necklaces to cufflinks is available and each item comes in its an individually made box, with illustration and all the information found about the coins used. It is small businesses like this one which offer more diversity to people looking for special, intricately made objects, which become treasure in their on right.

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Fig.2:Various Rings £ 145

Fig.1:Bobby Brooch £ 456

Fig.3:www.racheleardley.com

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4.3. The Maker

The Maker is a stop- motion animated short film, which was shot in the directors, Christopher Kezelos, garage. The whole set, the pup-pet, the lights are entirely handmade and built by a team of dedicated craftsman. Unfortunately the film in its entirety can up to now only be seen at festivals, but while watching the trailer there is a feeling of joy upon the mood created which instantly communicates passion and dedication, drawing the viewer into its world. One can feel the thought and labour invested into the project immediately, an instant connection to the film is established which can hardly be found in clean, computer animated films, where the pure amazement about what is possible seems to dominate thoughts. While today almost anything is possible to be artificially built and animated via com-puters the effect of an entirely hand- created world seems to have a far bigger emotional impact. There is a certain intimacy established through manual making which can not be imitated by computer animation.

With new processes and an endless list of new materials at his disposal, the artist, craftsman, and designer now suffer from the tyranny of absolute choice. When everything becomes possible, when all the limitations are gone, design and art can easily become a never- ending search for novelty, until new- ness- for- the- sake- of- newness becomes the only measure.

(Popanek, 1985: 42)

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5. Partners in Crime

Major businesses are struggling so small businesses have an interesting opportunity, major businesses will take a middle ground of conservatism and mediocrity so small businesses now have the opportunity to do something radical, challenging

and individual as well. This is hopefully a shift away from global culture back to individual culture. (Neville Brody, 2009)

Reading market reports and articles about various industries, one is certain to come upon “...very competitive marketplace...”, it has come to describe the situation in any discipline one encounters. Setting up a business without the consideration of who one's competitors are is said to be impossible. This culture of finding other companies' weaknesses and gaps and exploiting them in the best way possible, conjures up a certain amount of alienation. If the process of product development is a creative one, how can it be based on replication and exploitation.The brand developed is aiming at creating unique and intricate pieces, which are special to the wearer and communicate individuality, within a community. This implies that the customer will not buy the item because it is more expensive somewhere else but rather for its creative and qualitative value. Considering this competition to some extent looses its meaning and calls for a different approach to the market place. The brand Kleinod proposes a different way of working, one of collaboration, where different craftspeople support each other and work together to build a force opposing mass- market and over- production. They should become 'Partners in Crime' to build a force of resistance.

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5.1. Tracey Neuls

Tracey’s shoes are about the individual wearer and have no boundaries as to age or fashion preference setting her designs apart.

(www.tn29.com,2011)

Tracey Neuls is a London based designer responsible for TN29 and her signature line Traey Neuls. Her designs feature intrinsic moulds and high quality materials. Every pair of shoe is special in its own way and communicates a sense of individuality and craft, while still remaining part of the bigger picture, each immediately recognisable as the designers work. Tracey Neuls explained her inspiration as an attempt to “capture that child like imagination and innocence that you have when you are young and not influenced by the world around you”(Neuls, 2011. For full interview see Appendix 2). In her view footwear should be original and break out of the restrictions created by fashion and trends, individuality being of high importance in order to ascertain your own personality. Over the years Tracey Neuls has collaborated with a number of different artists and designers. Most recently she has worked with Fau-det- Harrison who specialise in product and furniture design. For the opening of her new shop on Redchurch street, East London, a number of every- day objects have been collected and were then redesigned and altered by the designers. While forming the interior of the store, the items are also on sale.This kind of collaboration enables designers and craftspeople from all disciplines to work together and build a network of support which strengthens individual makers as well as enforces a sense of community.

13Tracey Neuls tn_29

Tracey Neuls

375.00 x3395.00 x1445.00 x4450.00 x3475.00 x2495.00 x1660.00 x1

Price Architecture

tn_29

150.00 x1245.00 x2295.00 x1310.00 x1330.00 x1350.00 x6395.00 x2435.00 x1Average Price: 327.00

Average Price: 450.00

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5.2. Rosa Mosa

Rosa Mosa mostly draws inspiration from Eastern Europe, influenced by different cultures and traditions, they look for ever new ways to incorporate different aspects and materials into their work. For their Autumn/Winter 2011/12 Romania provided the source of inspiration, with a focus on the local vampire tradition. Rosa Mosa's sense of aesthetics is instantly recognisable and combines hard and soft elements. Following the different seasons the shapes and patterns of the uppers mostly stay the same, with only materials changing. Next to design, craftsmanship and materials are key issues in the development of their ranges. The materials are mainly sourced from local suppliers and artisans, which operate in Aus-tria. They also keep a very close relationship to their tanneries in order to maintain highest possible standards and transparency in their supply chain. Starting out with creating one- off pieces the company has now expanded to create full ranges and is selling in Europe, Asia and North America.

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219.00 x1221.00 x3224.00 x1230.00 x2268.00 x1289.00 x1299.00 x1331.00 x1337.00 x2350.00 x1359.00 x1363.00 x1375.00 x1410.00 x1

Price Architecture

Average Price: 294.00

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5.3. Trippen

(See also Appendix 3)German based design duo, Angela Spieth and Michael Oehler, founded the brand Trippen based on the feeling that in the late 80s/early 90s there was a serious gap in the market. So they set out to design and produce interesting and intelligent footwear, which pays atten-tion to sustainable issues as well as social responsibility. The footwear is produced in their factory just outside of Berlin as well as togeth-er with small family business in the North of Italy. The local production is key to the company and affects, next to ecological and market-ing aspects, the design of the collections. The environmentally friendly use of materials and transparency for their consumers is essential to the company. The different components, their origin, features and specification are clearly listed on the website and easily accessible for consumers to see.The company offers more than one thousand styles and is an excellent example of how a dedication to creating unique and thoughtful products can succeed through offering a different choice.

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Closed Women - 33 stylesPrice Range: 175.00 - 256.00Average Price: 194.00

Closed Boots - 32 stylesPrice Range: 229.00 - 364.00Average Price: 254.00

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6. Consumer

For General information see Appendix 4 - 6)

6.1. Essential Mindset

The most important issue of the consumer targeted is their very conscious decision making and the high emphasis on quality. The ability to connect with an item and to establish a relationship between her, the product and the brand, is essential. Which ever age or income level she will be looking for “a product that keeps corresponding with the user even after many seasons” with a “considered dialogue between functionality and aesthetics” (For full interview see Appendix 7).

6.2. Customer Profile – Made- to- Order

Being very young and still in education, the most essential part of her personality is the strong will to be different in her consumption. Through her regular travels, to Pakistan for academic and personal purposes, she has seen a different world, where ideology and com-munal life still go far beyond the four walls of a home. Some might see her as conservative in her views on consumption and the use of social media, but in fact her focus lies more on the importance of human communication and interaction. This is not only an issue in her social life but also in the way she shops, she puts high emphasis on purchasing items she really desires . Her shopping habits are not based on regularity or season, most times she will not specifically go shopping but find something by chance while walking past. One time she might immediately decide on a purchase, while another time over-think her decision and return later on.If satisfied with an item of a specific brand she will follow what they do and check up on them from time to time, she has a high brand loyalty, but as she does not shop very often this can not be seen as an indicator for regular purchases with a company, although priority will lie with it. The amount she will spend on an item is completely depended on her perception of its value and how special she feels it is.Her biggest dislike in fashion is the workings of the main stream fashion market. Mass- production and the creation of superficial needs are alien to her, quality and individuality are essential and she feels this is not available on the high- street, therefore she limits her shop-ping to the essentials and saves money for very special items which she can relate to and will keep for a long time.

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6.3. Customer Profile - Bespoke

This customer is a typical impulse shopper,when she finds something she likes she will simply buy it. She has a very fast paced lifestyle and likes to buy items which really catch her attention and give her a sense of continuity. Through reading fashion magazines in her spare time she is informed about fashion trends but does not turn around her whole wardrobe in order to follow them. Some she will take on board, others she will leave. With a good amount of disposable income she can afford to buy designer wear and prides herself on owning the one or other key piece but values small independent designer wear just as much. Her style is individual, featuring mostly black, when she goes for colour it will be a very strong and bold shade which stands in stark contrast to the usual black. If she really wants something, she will go through endless amounts of effort and is willing to wait for her item of choice. With an edgy and defined style every day is an occasion, she will always look stylish even when on her days off or on holiday, her motto is everything can be dressed down or up. Generally her spending habits are very closely tied to quality and individuality, therefore she is willing to spend more on the items she buys to keep in line with her perception of value. Money doesn't really matter to her, she spends a lot because she can afford to, although she does not feel the need to show this off.

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7. Market Position

7.1. Macro- Environment

(For full P.E.S.T- Analyisis and Information see Appendix 8 - 10)

There are various issues affecting the current situation in the market which need to be considered in the development process.The financial situation in Europe is very uncertain and threatening to collapse at any moment, if the political situation does not improve and serious steps to prevent this from happening are taken. The economic difficulties have resulted in the highest number of unemploy-ment in the UK since 17 years, which has direct impact and weakens not only individuals but also communities and trust within the entire population. Through outsourcing to cheap labour countries cheaper products can be produced but consumers can not trace where exactly and under which conditions products were made. Considering working conditions and still high rates of child labour, this is unac-ceptable and has next to social also environmental aspects which need to be considered. Outsourcing involves a high amount of trans-portation and production processes can not be as easily controlled. With not a day going by without new reports about signs of global warming and the impact of the way we live and use resources on nature, Western society is in desperate need of a reevaluation of its value systems and consumption patterns. This is also valid in terms of new technologies, while there is a need for new and improved processes in the production of materials to ensure sustainability, there is also the questions in which way new technologies and innova-tions are affecting traditional techniques of making and manufacturing which have been passed on over generations as well as the crea-tive process.

...most people[...]are so obsessed with their technology and their not thinking why they' re doing it. There is no content. There is no emotional story. There is no engaging. There is no narrative.

(Neville Brody, 2009)

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7.2. Micro- Environment

7.2.1. Customisable products

Recent developments in the footwear market have led to the trend of customizable footwear. Main- stream brands such as Converse and Timberland are now offering a service which allows customers to put together their own shoes. Next to this there is also a rising number of no- name companies offering such services, with a variety of styles which can be modified and put together in different ways to form a customised pair of footwear.This indicates a growing demand for individual style and a sense of uniqueness, which major players on the footwear market are reacting to by offering customers uniquely personalised products.

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Fig.27:Shoes of Prey

Fig.28: Converse

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7.2.1. DocMartens

At the beginning of October 2011 Doc Martens have launched their new bespoke concept at Dover Street Market. The pop- up concept will be available in London for one month and will then travel around the world, the bespoke footwear will also be available at some point in 2012. The company provides two classic styles which can be assembled according to customer choice and will then be manufactured in a factory in Northampton, England. Doc Martens thereby takes the step of customizable footwear one step further by offering a made- to- measure concept. Through the launch of this concept the company is responding not only to the growing demand for more personalised products, but also trying to improve people's trust in the brand by producing locally and using high quality materials.

7.3. Market Level

The brand proposed would be positioned in the luxury market, with prices for bespoke shoes around £ 2000 and made- to- order pieces ranging from £ 350 to £ 550. Within the luxury market the brand is positioned within a niche along with brands such as Rosa Mosa and Tracey Neuls, as it seeks to create unique products which work outside the modern market place. The brand seeks to establish itself as a provider of a different choice, which questions the rules of the present market as such and looks for a reevaluation of value, the meaning of craftsmanship and relationships as a whole.

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Pantone 11-0601

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Pantone 19-000

Pantone 18-5203

Pantone 17-0205

8. Design Inspiration

8.1. Map

When looking at maps they often seem confusing and anonymous, even when looking at an area well known by the observer. Therefore a map has been developed which tracks movements though a specific area and thereby defines and guides the outlines of the visual research. Through following different routes taken regularly, a pattern is constructed and the map evolves into a more logic and personal structure.

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8.2. Details

This part of the research explores the way one sees and experiences purely visual impressions while moving along paths regularly taken. While we move through certain spaces almost every day, quite often we do not see anymore, everything turns into a grey blur. Through consciously walking and experiencing the surroundings along the paths defined by the map, a series of close- up pictures was developed. Some still identifiable others not. The images seek to communicate the small things which you pass every day, which you have maybe never noticed before or did not pay attention to. From these images details and patterns have been developed through ex-perimentation.

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8.3. Movement

The most essential part of a city are the people who live in it. Without inhabitants it would be a desert built from concrete, brick and glass. A city is only what the individuals inhabiting make of it. Therefore the third part of the inspirational documents movement. It concentrates on peoples legs and through overlaying photographs, taken at the intersections developed in the map. The shapes evolving through the overlays inspire the edges and appearance of the upper.

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9. Range Overview

The range designed will be split into two parts. 3 designs will be proposed bespoke pieces, to show how the concept can be developed to create imaginative and intricate pieces. The rest of the range, 6 pieces, will be dedicated to the made- to- order side of the concept, featuring simpler and less elaborate designs. All pieces will be worked entirely in leather, featuring leather uppers, soles, insoles and lin-ing, this will communicate the importance of quality and durability within the range. Next to this all the shoes will have sewn soles, which makes them durable and most importantly repairable, which is one of the key issues in the development of the range. All of the design will feature flat soles with low heels, diversity will originate from the cuts of the upper and detailing. The range will be designed for autumn/winter 2012/13 and will therefore include closed shoes, ankle boots as well as high boots.The lasts used feature classic round shapes, which serve as a blank canvas. Every city planner's biggest dream is to have a clear space, an empty piece of land to create the perfect city. The shapes of the last seek to resemble this landscape, the least possible distortion or distraction from the natural shape of the foot.

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Fig.30: Springline Last. Round Toe Shape. Heel: 15mm

Fig.31: Springline Last. Round Toe Shape. Heel: 10mm

10. Supply Chain

10.1. Materials

For me, in terms of what ethical fashion is about, it's about adding back to communities, it's about empowering communi-ties so they can sustain themselves.

(Melanie Frame;Technical Manager;Topshop, 2007)

Northampton lies a short distance North from London and used to be the heart of the English leather and footwear production. Today, as a result of outsourcing to cheap labour countries, there is only a small number of tanneries and manufacturers remaining. This is only one example of many within the UK where the basis to sustain their own communities has been moved to different countries and thereby taken opportunites from the people living in them. In order to support the few remaining, in conserving a sense of tradition and an im-portance for communal production, all the leathers and materials will be sourced from companies based in the UK.

10.2. Production

Main focus in the production process lies on locality. All products are to be produced in the UK within small manufacturing companies where supervision can easily be facilitated.(See also Appendix 11)

The great opportunity for UK businesses, is the fact that by coming back locally, means that you have got more understand-ing of what is going on along the supply chain and it is all about making relationships, forging a communal way of working.

(Dilys Williams;London College of Fashion,2007)

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10.3. Distribution

10.3.1. Online

There will be an online platform which will serve as the major communication tool to the outside world and will enable customers to pur-chase the made- to- order range, get information about the label and follow the developments via a blog and updates on products devel-oped and the bespoke range.

10.3.2. Bespoke

The bespoke element of the business will be promoted through the website and on a word- of- mouth basis. The brand seeks to be fea-tured in independent magazines in order to promote the label further and reach a wider audience. The initial development of designs and communication to the the customer will be workshop based, this will enable the customer to get an insight into how their individual item is made and will minimise additional costs.

10.3.3. Craft Exchange

In the light of the recent economic situation and the prospects facing European economies, there is a need for different, maybe radical, models of distribution. In Austria the charity Caritas not only accepts donations which are then sold on, but also has warehouses, where people can come in and exchange their goods. They donate something and can then choose something new from the donations previ-ously made. This supports the idea of a “craft exchange” where craftspeople from all areas come together and are able to exchange their goods. The most important factor when running a creative business, is to be seen by others. This system would enable the makers to exchange their items and get their products seen worn on the street or exhibited in a variety of different locations.

11. Conclusion

At the beginning of creating this report there was an idea. An idea which through research as well as thought has changed and evolved into something that seeks to be a concept which is able to make sense to others through an explanation of the environment it would live in and the factors it would be influenced by. While at the start of the process the idea was very much influenced on being more affordable than what a luxury brand could offer, through research and an evaluation of personal aspirations it has changed into something ,possibly, more idealistic, something that feels a need for change in the way we consume and a reevaluation of values Western societies hold about tradition, craftsmanship and what it means to create a product. A concept which seeks to actively change as well as responding to change.There is such a vast amount of indicators showing that change needs to happen, from the Euro crisis, to unemployment, to environ-mental issues, to only name a few. Big companies will not make this change happen, it is small companies, little brands, which can truly make a difference by showing people what is possible. Most people find it hard to imagine things, be it a dress, a house or quite possibly change. There needs to be someone who can show them what it could look like, someone to give them the possibility and opportunity to make a difference. The research conducted has shown that the time is now, that the way we produce, consume and live is at a tipping point. The concept developed answers to these factors and proposes a different way of producing, communicating and working.While this report seeks to establish the basic considerations and outlines of the concept developed it is not exhaustive and there are areas which need to be developed further in order for it to be a well formed entity. Future steps involve the perfection of initial design ideas into fully developed products and further investigation into the supply chain. As sourcing and production are major aspects within the concept, research into suppliers will be a main focus point of future developments. Next to intensive research into local tanneries and manufacturers, aspects and possibilities of production within a charity, adding social aspects and actively making change happen, will be investigated.

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12. Bibliography

12.1. Books

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Crawford, M. (2010) The Case for Working with Your Hands: or Why Office Work is Bad for Us and Fixing Things Feels Good. London: Penguin Books.

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Meadows, T. (2009) How to Set Up and Run a Fashion Label. London: Laurence King Publishing Ltd.

Papanek, V. (1985) Design for the Real World: Human Ecology and Social Change. 2nd ed.London: Thames & Hudson.

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Raymond, S. (2002) Crafting Handmade Shoes: Great Looking Shoes, Sandals, Slippers and Boots. New York: Lark.

Riches, K. W. T. (1950) Guide to Sole Bonding. Grahamstown: Leather Industries Research Unit.

Seivewright, S. (2007) Research and Design. Lausanne, Switzerland: AVA Publishing.

Sharp, A. (2002) The Management of a Student Research Project. 3rd ed. Aldershot: Gower.

Sternberg, E. (2000) An Integrative Theory of Urban Design in Carmona, M. and Tiesdell, S. (ed). Urban Design Reader. Amsterdam; London: Architectural Press.

Tibbalds, F. (1992) 'Places' Matter Most' in Carmona, M. and Tiesdell, S. (ed). Urban Design Reader. Amsterdam; London: Architectural Press.

Trancik, R. (1986) What is Lost Space? in Carmona, M. and Tiesdell, S. (ed). Urban Design Reader. Amsterdam; London: Architectural Press.

Trieb, M. (1974) Stadtgestaltung: Theorie und Praxis. Duesseldorf: Bertelsmann Fachverlag.

12.2. Videos

Boost Your Impact With Buyers in Fashion Seminar by Cutting It and Fashion Expo 5th-6th November 2007 - Boost Your Profits With Ethi-cal Trading: What is ethical trading? (2007) Available at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cu2vw2CEFmg (Accessed: 03/11/2011)

Interview with Neville Brody (Graphic Designer) by étapes (2009) Available at: http://vimeo.com/7704058 (Accessed: 03/11/2011)

12.3. Online Resources

http://www.wgsn.comhttp://www.mintel.comhttp://www.guardian.co.uk http://www.oecd.org http://www.shoemat.com/Default.aspx (First Accessed: 24/10/2011)http://www.aacrack.co.uk/ (First Accessed: 24/10/2011)http://www.harmatan.co.uk/index.html (First Accessed: 24/10/2011)http://www.dickensbrothers.co.uk/ (First Accessed: 24/10/2011)http://www.northamptonshireleather.com/ (First Accessed: 24/10/2011)http://www.ecopell.linux20.christo.net/ (First Accessed: 24/10/2011)http://www.feitdirect.com/ (First Accessed: 24/11/2011)http://craftcentral.org.uk/about-us (First Accessed: 05/11/2011)http://www.thomasmurphyshoes.com/ (First Accessed: 05/11/2011)http://www.laste.co.uk/ (First Accessed: 05/11/2011)http://gizmodo.com/art/ (First Accessed: 05/11/2011)http://www.racheleardley.com/ (First Accessed: 05/11/2011)http://icanmakeshoes.com/ (First Accessed: 05/11/2011)http://www.plumo.com/ (First Accessed: 05/11/2011)http://www.rosamosa.com/ (First Accessed: 05/11/2011)http://www.tn29.com/ (First Accessed: 05/11/2011)http://www.wonderlandmagazine.com/2011/08/woman-of-everything-tracey-neuls/ (First Accessed: 05/11/2011)http://fashioninganethicalindustry.org/ (First Accessed: 03/11/2011)http://www.shoesofprey.com/ (First Accessed: 09/11/2011)http://www.converse.co.uk/#/home (First Accessed: 09/11/2011)http://www.springline.net/index.html (First Accessed: 10/11/2011)www.trippen.com (First Accessed: 09/11/2011)http://www.doverstreetmarket.com/dsmpaper/dr_martens_bespoke_ns.html (First Accessed: 10/11/2011)https://www.facebook.com/TheMakerFilm (First Accessed: 19/11/2011)

13. Images

Fig.1: Rachel Eardley.Bobby Brooch. http://www.racheleardley.com/coin_brooches_pins.html. (First Accessed: 05/11/2011)Fig.2: Rachel Eardley. Various Rings. http://www.racheleardley.com/coin_rings.html. (First Accessed: 05/11/2011)Fig.3: Rachel Eardley. Online View. http://www.racheleardley.com/coins.html. (First Accessed: 05/11/2011)Fig.4-7: The Maker Production and Promotion Images. https://www.facebook.com/TheMakerFilm. (First Accessed: 19/11/2011)Fig.8: Faudet- Harrison for Tracey Neuls in Redchurch Street. http://www.tn29.com/blog.php. (First Accessed: 05/11/2011)Fig.9-11: Tracey Neuls Signature Line. http://traceyneulsmainline.bigcartel.com/ (First Accessed: 05/11/2011)Fig.12-14: tn29. http://tn29.bigcartel.com/. (First Accessed: 05/11/2011)Fig.15-20: Rosa Mosa. Autumn/Winter 2011/12. http://www.rosamosa.com/products/aw1112. (First Accessed: 05/11/2011)Fig.21-26: Trippen Collection. www.trippen.com. (First Accessed: 09/11/2011)Fig.27: Shoes of Prey. http://www.shoesofprey.com/. (First Accessed: 09/11/2011)Fig.28: Converse. http://www.converse.co.uk/#/home. (First Accessed: 09/11/2011)Fig.29: DocMartens at Dover Street Market. http://www.doverstreetmarket.com/dsmpaper/dr_martens_bespoke_ns.html. (First Ac-cessed: 10/11/2011)Fig.:30-31: Springline Last. www.springline.com (First Accessed: 10/11/2011)

APPENDIX

APPENDIX 1 - LOGO

PRODUCTS OF PROCRASTINATION

PRODUCTS OF PROCRASTINATION

PRODUCTS OF PROCRASTINATION

PRODUCTS OF PROCRASTINATION

PRODUCTS OF PROCRASTINATION

PRODUCTS OF PROCRASTINATION

PRODUCTS OF PROCRASTINATION

products of procrastination

products of procrastination

APPENDIX 2 – INTERVIEW TRACEY NEULS

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Unfortunately our designers Angela Spieth and Michael Oehler are not able to answer your questions personally, but I will try and answer them on behalf of both.What would You say is Your major source of inspiration?They have answered this question previously with "Life in general".What led You to start Your own label?They felt that there was not much interesting and intelligent footwear around in the late 80s/early 90s, so they started their own label.How would You describe Your label in 3 words?Modern design that combines sustainability and social responsibility and an approach to pattern technique similar to couture.Who would You say is Your typical customer?With more than 1.000 styles, various collections and materials and a very diverse colour range, it is difficult to describe the "typical" Trippen customer. Instead Trip-pen provides the room to individual requirements. 75% of Trippen's customers are female, though, and all have in common an interest in design and fashion as well as high standards of quality.Where do You produce the footwear?In our own factory just outside Berlin and in collaboration with small family businesses in northern Italy.What are the main issues You consider when designing a collection?When designing a new line it is fundamental issues like ecological aspects or to enable a production in Germany as well as fashion trends, the existing collection, the different markets where Trippen is presented.Who would You say are Your main competitors? Trippen is still a niche product with no direct competitors.Do You consider marketing issues when developing a collection?Only to the degree that certain styles are designed with a particular market in mind. Other than that, fashion trends are taken on board and ecological aspects have a direct influence on the designs.

APPENDIX 3 - INTERVIEW TRIPPEN

The amount of innovation and the rapid development of new technologies during the past 100 years, has given rise to a consumer that can have almost everything, anywhere, anytime. While this has been widely anticipated and embraced by the mainstream it has also created a market place which seems alienating and deper-sonalised. In recent years the workings and ethics of the market place and the anonymity of social interaction have been widely discussed. This questioning and the beginning attempts to reevaluate how we purchase and communicate with each other, is slowly moving towards “consumers [...] giving more thought to their purchasing decisions and redefining what it means to be a smart shopper”. WGSN predicts that by 2013 there will be a “swing back towards the benefits of reality” with importance on “innovative production methods and skilled craft level”. The future will also see more emphasis on the “(global) Newcomer”, who is younger and less affluent, but has a “stronger sense of confidence in its growing spending power” and has “more and more desire to actively reduce the amount of technology in their lives and replace it with more human connection, human skills and nature”.

The market research company MINTEL has recently released the British Lifestyle Report which identifies 5 different consumer types, one of them being “Simply the Best”. This group puts the most emphasis on quality and premium goods, with the least regard towards price, product range or special offers. With a high percent-age of the group not having to worry about income and generally being satisfied with their general life, they make up 13% of over 16 year olds and thereby 5.1 million adults. The members of this group are hardly influenced by price in their purchasing decisions and are the most likely to buy less and save up money to buy high quality items which they really need or desire.

A survey undertaken has shown that most of the respondents identify sustainable design with quality, which makes it an integral part of any concept developed. Through experience within in the field and listening to customers it is easily recognisable that most people believe that leather offers superior quality than other materials.

APPENDIX 4 - GENERAL CONSUMER INFORMATION

NOW> have too much and know too much> search for superb design, awe- inspiring technology and products that really enhance our lives> increasing desire for amazing products and communications that are beautiful, but also offer incredible performance> best of the past and reshaping it for a different world

CONSUMER FORECAST 2012

> new found desire for beauty and developed style> need to creatively express themselves and a thirst for the fresh, unusual and surprising> scaling down products where possible, but it is a refining process, not a dumbing one> value, time, detail, reference, storytelling, context change > strong sensory experience > surprises and entertains

CONSUMER FORECAST 2013> new found focus on accentuating positives of what is in a product rather than emphasising what is not in it> consumers are giving more thought to their purchasing decisions and redefining what it means to be a smart shopper today> locally sourced goods, digital shopping and 'give-a-nomics' (purchasing as a way of giving. Consumers want to give to charity, preserve environment or help their communitites. Increasingly expect brands to be socially responsible)> By 2013 > swing back towards benefits of reality> innovative production methods and skilled craft level> stories told about real- life issues, people and realistic commerce

> (global) newcomer > younger and less affluent > stronger sense of confidence in its growing spending power> great fabrics, aggressive tailoring, thoughtful accessorising> behind- the- scenes and how-it-was made context will be as appealing as finished products> more and more desire to actively reduce the amount of technology in their lives and replace with more human connection, human skills and nature > correctness and decency> LOOKING TO BE INSPIRED, EDUCATED AND RELEVANT> services that are simpler and more efficient> keen on decent behaviour and equating being good and ethical to quality of life

> consumers globally > more careful structuring > spending habits > more focus on needs than wants> consumers starting to make choices that allow them to shape their lives based upon ideals

> be as transparent as possible> “adopt a slower, more creative modus operandi and reap the benefits of real life”

APPENDIX 5 - WGSN RESEARCH

APPENDIX 6 - MINTEL

Simply the Best(13% of internet users aged 16+ or 5.1 million adults)

This group is by far the most concerned about quality and premium goods, but like the Conformists they are worried about their image and status. They are least likely to worry about price, product range or offers and, while no more impulsive than average, they are arguably more likely to buy something ‘with confidence’ when they see it.

However, they are most likely to be early adopters and adventurous in their brand and product choices, and their status motivations are therefore more likely to be driven by projections of prestige rather than fitting in with others – they are among the least likely to ask opinions of friends and family. Their concern with having the best quality means they are more likely to reject more pedestrian options.

Financial situation and outlookThe most affluent group in our survey, the Simply the Bests are motivated by quality and premium goods because they can afford to be. More than a third (36%) describe their current finances as healthy with money being left over at the end of the month for luxuries or savings. A similar proportion also feel certain of their financial future with 39% being confident that they’ll be OK; this compares with an average of around three in ten (29%). It is no surprise therefore that this group is also the happiest. Six in ten are satisfied with their life compared to an average of 50% although this does not stop them from treating themselves if they are in need of cheering up. The Simply the Best group are more likely than any other to treat themselves to all sorts of things with exception to chocolate or sweets. The fact that they can afford to splurge on a holiday may be a key factor behind 46% saying that they will definitely treat themselves to a holiday if feeling low. This compares to an average of 33%.Although they have noticed the price rises in many sectors, the spending habits of the Simply the Best group are unlikely to have changed in the last year or so. With exception to entertainment, eating out and takeaways, they are the least likely group to have cut back their spending in any sectors. They are the most likely group to say that they have spent less or stopped spending on their housing eg mortgage and rent and a third of members in this group have benefited from the low interest rates on their mortgages. This will further buffer their current finances, contributing to why they are comfortable.

As their name would suggest, and with finances to allow, the members of the Simply the Best group are the least likely to prioritise price over quality when buying products. They are least likely to compromise in clothing and in food for eating at home. This unwillingness to compromise may also be one reason that the Simply the Best are the most likely group to save up for one big treat rather than splash out on smaller ones. This also feeds into the fact that fewer than one in ten (9%) will buy cheap products and hope they last. Instead more than six in ten (63% versus an average of 32%) prefer to pay more for something that they know will last. Despite showing a willingness to save up for one big treat, their comfortable financial circumstances mean that they can afford to splash out when they see something that they want; three in ten spend now rather than save for the future (around 8 percentage points above the average).

Members of the Simply the Best group like to treat themselves with 43% setting aside a budget for treats each months. They are less bothered about paying full price for things with almost one in five agreeing that they are not bothered about getting things at a discounted price. This also trickles down into their spending where they do not feel the need to save in some areas in order to be able to afford other things. Just three in ten will feel guilty if they spend beyond their budget whilst one in four (24%) find ways to justify any overspend.

Who are they?

Older age skew with a concentration amongst older demographics (one in four are over-55s).More likely than average to live in the suburbs (45% versus 40%).More than four in ten (43%) work full-time and this may be one reason that they are also more likely to fall within higher-income households: almost one in five (18%) bring home in excess of £50,000 per year.Hail from higher social grades – more than seven in ten (71%) are ABC1s. More than four in ten are ABs compared to an average of three in ten.Simply the Bests are significantly more likely than average to read The Sunday Times and the Mail on Sunday.http://academic.mintel.com/sinatra/oxygen_academic/my_reports/display/id=545277&anchor=atom/display/id=545213/display/id=591822Currently standing at 63 million, the UK population continues to rise while in 2010, the number of births hit a 20-year high, signalling that Britain is in the grip of another baby boom.An ageing population coupled with increasing life expectancy rates will have significant implications for state and pension provision with more people living longer into their retirement. The typical household is shrinking in size, but the number of households is rising. On average people in the UK live in a household size of 2.3 people. This has fallen since 2006 on the back of a rise in the number of smaller households. Almost half of over-75s live alone.Following the recession of 2008, unemployment levels remain high. As of June 2011, 1.52 million people were claiming Jobseeker’s Allowance and the number of household in which no one had ever worked almost doubled to 352,000 since Q2 2010.Employment

http://academic.mintel.com/sinatra/oxygen_academic/my_reports/display/id=545277&anchor=atom/display/id=545213/display/id=591799

Figure 12: Employment and unemployment, by gender, 2006-16

HOW OFTEN DO YOU BUY SHOES?Je nachdem ob nur münzen oder auch scheine vorhanden & according to need. Depends on the amount of money I have available. Also it very much depends on what I see. If I find something, by accident, I really like I will try to make the money available and save on other things.

HOW MUCH WOULD YOU BE WILLING TO PAY FOR A GOOD QUALITY PAIR OF SHOES?Depends on the shoe.

HOW WOULD YOU DEFINE SUSTAINABLE DESIGN?Something worthwhile, lasting, not coming out of a Bangladeshi slum designer manufactory.Very importantly, something that keeps corresponding with the user, even after many summers passed. Something essential, not ethereal. That affects the process of utilization, application, use, as much as the whole process that comes with designing and producing a shoe.

HOW IMPORTANT IS SUSTAINABLE DESIGN TO YOU?Important as a concept, at times I forget about it in reality, for reasons of unfocused confusion.

DO YOU CONSIDER ISSUES SUCH AS LOCAL SOURCING OR PRODUCTION WHEN YOU BUY FOOTWEAR?At first not; that comes with the shoe: as soon as a shoe catches my attention, it has to be made nicely and, as a matter of fact by clean hands; otherwise the glo-bal glue would prevent me from liking it, most likely.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE PAIR OF SHOES AND WHY SO?Apart from these all plastic ballerinas from delhi, that fell apart after heavy usage, I prefer a pair of however-they-might-be-named- professionally dark red lady teacher´s leather shoes, that cost a lot, still are a welcome source of pride on my feet every time I take them out for a walk. Why so? Because of perfect colour and shape. (and wearing them people watch my feet)

WHERE DO YOU USUALLY BUY YOUR FOOTWEAR?In small footwear boutiques, where people leave me to browse and after a little bargaining take my money for good! I tend to go there just when sales are on. Oth-erwise: In Season: No Food: No Drink.

WHEN PURCHASING A PAIR OF SHOES, WHAT PROMPTS YOU TO DO SO?I have to fall in love. One way or the other. Functionality alone is not enough. I´d rather stay lonesome then.

HOW WOULD YOU DEFINE GOOD QUALITY?

Nice finishing and starting. Lasting material. Material! Leather should be leather, not the rest of a cow with poly- whatever. And, good quality, I assume, always comes with good people. Therefore good quality comes along my dreaming and imagination, that keeps grappling with the piece. And, as mentioned above essential design, not ethereal things, i´d nominate for `good quality products`.There are aspects of usability as well as aspects of a creative mind giving extraordinary answers blending for good quality to evolve.

WOULD YOU SAY 'INDIVIDUALITY' IS A KEY ASPECT IN YOUR DECISION- MAKING PROCESS?As far as I should be called an individuum, yes. But, I would also place myself within community etc…, therefore the key aspect is an assumed individuality created out of community. So, yes.

APPENDIX 7 – CUSTOMER INTERVIEW

APPENDIX 8 - SURVEY

1. Age232. GenderFemale3. Occupationstudent4. How much does your average pair of shoes cost?£50 - £ 1005. How would you define sustainable design in 3 words?ecological social fair conditions utility6. Do you consider where the footwear was produced and does this influence your decisions? If so, how?Yesyes sometimes. i prefer good quality and fair conditions and i am up to pay much more for it.7. Rate these according to their importance when buying shoes: (1 - very important/5 not important)Individuality 2Trend 2Style 1Exclusivity 3Price 1Quality 1Sustainability 2Locally Produced 38. Where do you usually buy your shoes?Chain Retailer9. Describe your favourite pair of shoes and why you like it best:right now my favourite pair of shoes are my new leather boots made in italy. i bought them for 200 euros and it was worth it, because they are comfortable, they have good quality and i can wear them anytime...

1. Age242. GenderMale3. OccupationGraphic Designer4. How much does your average pair of shoes cost?£100 - £2005. How would you define sustainable design in 3 words?reusable earthcolors cheap6. Do you consider where the footwear was produced and does this influence your decisions? If so, how?No7. Rate these according to their importance when buying shoes: (1 - very important/5 not important)Individuality 5Trend 5Style 5Exclusivity 3Price 4Quality 1Sustainability 4Locally Produced 58. Where do you usually buy your shoes?Online9. Describe your favourite pair of shoes and why you like it best:prada - half shoes, brown wilde leather. i got them 2 years ago, and they look and feel like new. i wear them 300 days/year

1. Age302. GenderFemale3. OccupationDesigner4. How much does your average pair of shoes cost?£100 - £2005. How would you define sustainable design in 3 words?fair-trade, eco-friendly, inovative6. Do you consider where the footwear was produced and does this influence your decisions? If so, how?Yesi do not buy, if the orogin of production is unclear, or known to be a low cost labor, and environmental-unsustainable7. Rate these according to their importance when buying shoes: (1 - very important/5 not important)Individuality 3Trend 3Style 3Exclusivity 3Price 3Quality 1Sustainability 1Locally Produced 18. Where do you usually buy your shoes?Independent Boutique9. Describe your favourite pair of shoes and why you like it best:a pair of sandals, made by order. i like the idea, that the product is made by order in england, as that guaranties for less overproduction, and less waste.

1. Age552. GenderFemale3. Occupationresearch intervier4. How much does your average pair of shoes cost?less than £505. How would you define sustainable design in 3 words?natural products6. Do you consider where the footwear was produced and does this influence your decisions? If so, how?Yesi prefer to support business that are closest to where i live...less impact on the environment,and helps local economy7. Rate these according to their importance when buying shoes: (1 - very important/5 not important)Individuality 5Trend 5Style 1Exclusivity 4Price 1Quality 1Sustainability 1Locally Produced 18. Where do you usually buy your shoes?Department Store/Multi-Brand Store9. Describe your favourite pair of shoes and why you like it best:new balance.....they help...with foot and balance issuee

1. Age442. GenderFemale3. OccupationAccount Director4. How much does your average pair of shoes cost?less than £505. How would you define sustainable design in 3 words?local, durable, classic6. Do you consider where the footwear was produced and does this influence your decisions? If so, how?No7. Rate these according to their importance when buying shoes: (1 - very important/5 not important)Individuality 3Trend 3Style 1Exclusivity 2Price 2Quality 1Sustainability 2Locally Produced 38. Where do you usually buy your shoes?Department Store/Multi-Brand Store9. Describe your favourite pair of shoes and why you like it best:comfortable and stays in fashion

1. Age512. GenderMale3. Occupationjoiner4. How much does your average pair of shoes cost?less than £505. How would you define sustainable design in 3 words?classic duable popular6. Do you consider where the footwear was produced and does this influence your decisions? If so, how?Nostyle and price make me decide7. Rate these according to their importance when buying shoes: (1 - very important/5 not important)Individuality 5Trend 4Style 2Exclusivity 5Price 1Quality 2Sustainability 2Locally Produced 58. Where do you usually buy your shoes?Chain Retailer9. Describe your favourite pair of shoes and why you like it best:trianers due to comfort

1. Age452. GenderFemale3. OccupationHousewife4. How much does your average pair of shoes cost?less than £505. How would you define sustainable design in 3 words?Recycled materials/Low-carbon footprint/Natural materials6. Do you consider where the footwear was produced and does this influence your decisions? If so, how?NoI just buy shoes I love, that are practical and comfortable. I am more concerned about the working conditions/child labour than sustainable.7. Rate these according to their importance when buying shoes: (1 - very important/5 not important)Individuality 4Trend 5Style 2Exclusivity 5Price 1Quality 1Sustainability 5Locally Produced 58. Where do you usually buy your shoes?Independent Boutique9. Describe your favourite pair of shoes and why you like it best:A pair of red patant (glossy) sandals with a leapord type texture. They have a 2" heel. Open toe and widish strap at the back.

1. Age232. GenderFemale3. Occupationstudent4. How much does your average pair of shoes cost?£50 - £ 1005. How would you define sustainable design in 3 words?ecological, timeless, functional6. Do you consider where the footwear was produced and does this influence your decisions? If so, how?NoI don't know what to answer. Sometimes I guess would be the best. I would like to, but as i don't have the financial possibilities to, i can't always afford to buy sus-tainable products.7. Rate these according to their importance when buying shoes: (1 - very important/5 not important)Individuality 2Trend 2Style 2Exclusivity 4Price 2Quality 1Sustainability 2Locally Produced 28. Where do you usually buy your shoes?Department Store/Multi-Brand Store9. Describe your favourite pair of shoes and why you like it best:I really like my Teva-Sandals I bought before summer. I got them really cheap (for being Teva-Sandals) at a sale at an outdoor-store. (I guess that fact makes me like them as well) They look nice for being oudoor-sandals, they are functional and comfy.

1. Age232. GenderMale3. OccupationStudent4. How much does your average pair of shoes cost?less than £505. How would you define sustainable design in 3 words?simple, special, exceptional6. Do you consider where the footwear was produced and does this influence your decisions? If so, how?No7. Rate these according to their importance when buying shoes: (1 - very important/5 not important)Individuality 1Trend 3Style 2Exclusivity 4Price 3Quality 3Sustainability 2Locally Produced 58. Where do you usually buy your shoes?Department Store/Multi-Brand Store9. Describe your favourite pair of shoes and why you like it best:Textile shoes by Puma; because of there color and their style

1. Age272. GenderMale3. OccupationEditor4. How much does your average pair of shoes cost?£50 - £ 1005. How would you define sustainable design in 3 words?Repairable, Sturdy, Lasting6. Do you consider where the footwear was produced and does this influence your decisions? If so, how?YesI perfer to buy domestically produced products, as these tend to be better built. Maybe it's beacuse if you are paid a fair wage you take care in your work. But I also would like my clothing produced by people paid fair wages.7. Rate these according to their importance when buying shoes: (1 - very important/5 not important)Individuality 3Trend 2Style 4Exclusivity 1Price 4Quality 5Sustainability 4Locally Produced 48. Where do you usually buy your shoes?Chain Retailer9. Describe your favourite pair of shoes and why you like it best:I loved my old Doc Martens as they lasted for 4 years. Black simple style, quality leather that felt great to wear and molded to my feet. Newer Docs don't last as long, sadly.

1. Age282. GenderFemale3. Occupationdesigner4. How much does your average pair of shoes cost?£50 - £ 1005. How would you define sustainable design in 3 words?simple good quality natural colours6. Do you consider where the footwear was produced and does this influence your decisions? If so, how?No7. Rate these according to their importance when buying shoes: (1 - very important/5 not important)Individuality 1Trend 3Style 1Exclusivity 4Price 3Quality 2Sustainability 1Locally Produced 48. Where do you usually buy your shoes?Chain Retailer9. Describe your favourite pair of shoes and why you like it best:stylish (ankle)boots or peeptoes with a wedge heel not too high with a good footbed

1. Age232. GenderMale3. Occupationstudent4. How much does your average pair of shoes cost?£50 - £ 1005. How would you define sustainable design in 3 words?high quality fair labour conditions6. Do you consider where the footwear was produced and does this influence your decisions? If so, how?Yestrying to avoid child labour7. Rate these according to their importance when buying shoes: (1 - very important/5 not important)Individuality 1Trend 3Style 1Exclusivity 3Price 2Quality 1Sustainability 3Locally Produced 38. Where do you usually buy your shoes?Chain Retailer9. Describe your favourite pair of shoes and why you like it best:leather boots made in India, but under fair labour conditions

1. Age232. GenderFemale3. Occupationgraphic designer4. How much does your average pair of shoes cost?less than £505. How would you define sustainable design in 3 words?uniqueness, pureness, convenience6. Do you consider where the footwear was produced and does this influence your decisions? If so, how?YesBoth. Though I rather focus on the used material influencing my decision. I don´t buy any kind of products for which animals are harmed or killed.7. Rate these according to their importance when buying shoes: (1 - very important/5 not important)Individuality 3Trend 3Style 1Exclusivity 2Price 2Quality 3Sustainability 3Locally Produced 48. Where do you usually buy your shoes?Department Store/Multi-Brand Store9. Describe your favourite pair of shoes and why you like it best:That changes every two months. I usually use my shoes as long as they fit me. Therefore I still owe some pairs I had bought when I was 14. I like simple shoes, like simple boots, simple converse, simple espandrillos. I normally don´t even throw them out when they hardly have a shoe sole left.

1. Age232. GenderFemale3. OccupationStudent4. How much does your average pair of shoes cost?less than £505. How would you define sustainable design in 3 words?natural material6. Do you consider where the footwear was produced and does this influence your decisions? If so, how?No7. Rate these according to their importance when buying shoes: (1 - very important/5 not important)Individuality 2Trend 2Style 2Exclusivity 3Price 2Quality 2Sustainability 4Locally Produced 58. Where do you usually buy your shoes?Department Store/Multi-Brand Store9. Describe your favourite pair of shoes and why you like it best:They look like Doc Martens but are much smoother. They are greyish and I like them because they are most comfortable.

1. Age232. GenderMale3. Occupationsale consultant4. How much does your average pair of shoes cost?£100 - £2005. How would you define sustainable design in 3 words?very very good6. Do you consider where the footwear was produced and does this influence your decisions? If so, how?Yesit affects the quality of the product7. Rate these according to their importance when buying shoes: (1 - very important/5 not important)Individuality 5Trend 5Style 1Exclusivity 5Price 4Quality 2Sustainability 5Locally Produced 58. Where do you usually buy your shoes?Independent Boutique9. Describe your favourite pair of shoes and why you like it best:smart and elegant, is what i like to wear

1. Age212. GenderFemale3. Occupationstudent4. How much does your average pair of shoes cost?£50 - £ 1005. How would you define sustainable design in 3 words?eco friendly, comfortable, different6. Do you consider where the footwear was produced and does this influence your decisions? If so, how?No7. Rate these according to their importance when buying shoes: (1 - very important/5 not important)Individuality 2Trend 2Style 1Exclusivity 0Price 2Quality 2Sustainability 3Locally Produced 48. Where do you usually buy your shoes?Department Store/Multi-Brand Store9. Describe your favourite pair of shoes and why you like it best:flat pumps- comfortable, daily wearable, my style of design, lasts for a long period of time

1. Age232. GenderMale3. Occupationstudent4. How much does your average pair of shoes cost?£50 - £ 1005. How would you define sustainable design in 3 words?quality, robust and enviromentally friendly material6. Do you consider where the footwear was produced and does this influence your decisions? If so, how?Nono, just the quality matters7. Rate these according to their importance when buying shoes: (1 - very important/5 not important)Individuality 2Trend 2Style 3Exclusivity 3Price 3Quality 1Sustainability 2Locally Produced 58. Where do you usually buy your shoes?Department Store/Multi-Brand Store9. Describe your favourite pair of shoes and why you like it best:hugo boss leather shoes: good quality, fancy looking, sustainability granted!!!

1. Age252. GenderFemale3. Occupationwaitress4. How much does your average pair of shoes cost?less than £505. How would you define sustainable design in 3 words?quality, pretty, it works6. Do you consider where the footwear was produced and does this influence your decisions? If so, how?Yes7. Rate these according to their importance when buying shoes: (1 - very important/5 not important)Individuality 3Trend 3Style 4Exclusivity 1Price 4Quality 4Sustainability 4Locally Produced 28. Where do you usually buy your shoes?Department Store/Multi-Brand Store9. Describe your favourite pair of shoes and why you like it best:Chelsea boots from monki. super comfortable

1. Age252. GenderMale3. Occupationgaphic designer4. How much does your average pair of shoes cost?£100 - £2005. How would you define sustainable design in 3 words?aesthetic, materiality, sophisticated6. Do you consider where the footwear was produced and does this influence your decisions? If so, how?Yesask at the shop7. Rate these according to their importance when buying shoes: (1 - very important/5 not important)Individuality 2Trend 5Style 1Exclusivity 1Price 2Quality 1Sustainability 1Locally Produced 28. Where do you usually buy your shoes?Independent Boutique9. Describe your favourite pair of shoes and why you like it best:brown used-look leather derby shoe. I love them ´cause the fit just perfect and match with almost everything in my closet. That means I don´t have to care about it.

1. Age242. GenderFemale3. Occupationstudent4. How much does your average pair of shoes cost?less than £505. How would you define sustainable design in 3 words?economic, ...mhm..6. Do you consider where the footwear was produced and does this influence your decisions? If so, how?No7. Rate these according to their importance when buying shoes: (1 - very important/5 not important)Individuality 2Trend 3Style 2Exclusivity 2Price 3Quality 2Sustainability 3Locally Produced 48. Where do you usually buy your shoes?Chain Retailer9. Describe your favourite pair of shoes and why you like it best:My grey TOMS shoes! I love them!! They are so comfy and they fit to all kind of clothes - dresses, pants, skirts...unfortunately I can't really wear them in the winter-time :(..anyway, best of all is that everyone who purchases a pair of TOMS donates a pair of shoes to a kid in Argentina at the same time

1. Age232. GenderFemale3. Occupationstudent4. How much does your average pair of shoes cost?£50 - £ 1005. How would you define sustainable design in 3 words?No Response6. Do you consider where the footwear was produced and does this influence your decisions? If so, how?No7. Rate these according to their importance when buying shoes: (1 - very important/5 not important)Individuality 2Trend 3Style 2Exclusivity 4Price 2Quality 2Sustainability 3Locally Produced 38. Where do you usually buy your shoes?Chain Retailer9. Describe your favourite pair of shoes and why you like it best:brown heels with a zip on the back! I can wear them all night jump around and i still dont feel any pain!

1. Age202. GenderFemale3. OccupationStudent4. How much does your average pair of shoes cost?£50 - £ 1005. How would you define sustainable design in 3 words?eco-friendly high quality recycled6. Do you consider where the footwear was produced and does this influence your decisions? If so, how?Noif it's nice I want it, it's hard to know what difference there is between something made in brazil and something made in china it really depends on the factory and the materials. I try and buy secondhand which is cheaper and more sustainable but they don't last long and the fit isn't too good. I've not seen much in my price range that's locally produced.7. Rate these according to their importance when buying shoes: (1 - very important/5 not important)Individuality 5Trend 1Style 5Exclusivity 3Price 3Quality 4Sustainability 3Locally Produced 28. Where do you usually buy your shoes?Online9. Describe your favourite pair of shoes and why you like it best:I have some amazing platform wedge boots from Finsk, the wedge is black brown and purple wood and triangular shaped at the back, and the upper is light grey and black suede with a zip at the back. I like them as they're so unusual and angular, and the suede is extremely soft. They are also super comfy due to the massive amount of padding on the insole. I did get them for free, but I do prefer to buy higher quality shoes (generally from previous seasons at discount prices), as I'll keep them for longer, and look after them more.

1. Age232. GenderMale3. Occupationstudent4. How much does your average pair of shoes cost?less than £505. How would you define sustainable design in 3 words?quality, material, design6. Do you consider where the footwear was produced and does this influence your decisions? If so, how?No7. Rate these according to their importance when buying shoes: (1 - very important/5 not important)Individuality 1Trend 2Style 2Exclusivity 2Price 1Quality 1Sustainability 2Locally Produced 28. Where do you usually buy your shoes?Department Store/Multi-Brand Store9. Describe your favourite pair of shoes and why you like it best:comfortable black shoes, good design and quality

1. Age222. GenderFemale3. Occupationstudent4. How much does your average pair of shoes cost?£50 - £ 1005. How would you define sustainable design in 3 words?green, fairtrade, organic6. Do you consider where the footwear was produced and does this influence your decisions? If so, how?Noi never look up where the shoes come from when i buy them...7. Rate these according to their importance when buying shoes: (1 - very important/5 not important)Individuality 2Trend 2Style 1Exclusivity 2Price 1Quality 1Sustainability 4Locally Produced 38. Where do you usually buy your shoes?Department Store/Multi-Brand Store9. Describe your favourite pair of shoes and why you like it best:my favourite pair of shoes are actually my new winter boots with lambskin lining -> because they are so cosy and warm :)

1. Age282. GenderFemale3. OccupationChildcareworker4. How much does your average pair of shoes cost?£50 - £ 1005. How would you define sustainable design in 3 words?recycling, upcycling, quality6. Do you consider where the footwear was produced and does this influence your decisions? If so, how?No7. Rate these according to their importance when buying shoes: (1 - very important/5 not important)Individuality 2Trend 4Style 2Exclusivity 5Price 1Quality 2Sustainability 3Locally Produced 38. Where do you usually buy your shoes?Department Store/Multi-Brand Store9. Describe your favourite pair of shoes and why you like it best:It's a pair of silver shoes, bought at a fleemarket. Unfortunately they don't fit but they are a nice decoration in my appartement.

1. Age242. GenderFemale3. OccupationStudent4. How much does your average pair of shoes cost?less than £505. How would you define sustainable design in 3 words?quality, ethic, timeless6. Do you consider where the footwear was produced and does this influence your decisions? If so, how?Nobecause I don t have enough money yet to buy good quality and "fair" produced shoes...7. Rate these according to their importance when buying shoes: (1 - very important/5 not important)Individuality 1Trend 4Style 1Exclusivity 4Price 1Quality 1Sustainability 2Locally Produced 18. Where do you usually buy your shoes?Department Store/Multi-Brand Store9. Describe your favourite pair of shoes and why you like it best:a pair of suede leather boots because the design was simple, good quality boot and it lasted for a while...

1. Age232. GenderFemale3. Occupationstudent4. How much does your average pair of shoes cost?£50 - £ 1005. How would you define sustainable design in 3 words?good material, long lasting, environmentally friendly6. Do you consider where the footwear was produced and does this influence your decisions? If so, how?No7. Rate these according to their importance when buying shoes: (1 - very important/5 not important)Individuality 2Trend 3Style 1Exclusivity 2Price 1Quality 2Sustainability 3Locally Produced 58. Where do you usually buy your shoes?Chain Retailer9. Describe your favourite pair of shoes and why you like it best:boots - comfortable, warm

1. Age202. GenderFemale3. OccupationStudent4. How much does your average pair of shoes cost?£50 - £ 1005. How would you define sustainable design in 3 words?Eco friendly re-usable recylcing6. Do you consider where the footwear was produced and does this influence your decisions? If so, how?No7. Rate these according to their importance when buying shoes: (1 - very important/5 not important)Individuality 2Trend 1Style 2Exclusivity 3Price 1Quality 2Sustainability 4Locally Produced 48. Where do you usually buy your shoes?Chain Retailer9. Describe your favourite pair of shoes and why you like it best:My favourite shoes are a pair of 6 inch mary janes from topshop, they are comfortable and they look great with everything

APPENDIX 8 - PEST

Political

With three of EU's biggest economies on the verge of breaking down the financial situation is far from safe and with the future comes a lot of uncertainty. Unem-ployment and lack of state funding have been serious issues over the past years and will lead on dominating in the future. With Greece already on the verge of complete breakdown, the future is uncertain and the faith of Italy, Spain and France will be crucial to the development of the economic situation. The unpredictable position we are in at the moment puts a lot of pressure on all of the European economies and demands for change in order to survive. It is essential to strengthen local economies as much as possible in order to sustain the viability of the economy as well as create new employment opportunities. This will not only strengthen the individual household spending power, but in turn also companies and therefore the economy as a whole.

Social

“Unemployment in the UK is already at a 17-year high [...] The rate is seen edging up to 8.2% for September from 8.1% the month before, according to a Reuters poll of economists.” (www.guardian.com, 2011)

Considering the present economic situation the prospects for employment are very slim and especially young people suffer from the lack of job opportunities. From a purely social point of view the consequences are disastrous. Unemployment seeds hopelessness and despair within a community, it destroys trust and turns a bright future into a picture which seems unrealistic and impossible to obtain. The recent riots in the UK have shown how explosive an environment like this can be and how important it is to establish trust within communities and to show people that they have a chance, if not to make their dreams come true, then at least to lead a self- sufficient life, without being dependent on benefits and feeling undignified.

“International Labor Organization estimates that more than 215m children are involved in child labour.” (WGSN,2011)The platform WGSN recently featured an article reporting about the global situation of child labour. According to this children are still forced to work in 71 countries in Africa, Asia and Latin America. The variety of goods produced is all- encompassing, including footwear, textiles and accessories. Finding a solution to this problem is very difficult, as the situation is wide spread and hard to oversee. It involves improving life conditions, social services and opening access to education in con-cerned countries, which is a long time and highly expensive process. Producing in affected countries requires high levels of control and enforcement with the manu-facturing companies. For a small business it can be very hard to supervise and ensure that children, or workers as a whole, are not exploited and forced to work. The only option seems to be is to refuse producing in countries where the factor of child labour can not certainly be excluded and to manufacture where processes can be easily overseen and controlled.

“All design is education of sorts. The designer attempts to educate his manufacturer – client and the people at the market place...Young people, teenagers, and prepubescents have been propagandised into buying, collection, and soon discarding useless, expensive trash. It is only rarely that young people overcome this indoctrination.” (Popanek, 1985: 103)

Environmental

As the world is coming to realise that natural resources and the environment are in serious danger of becoming damaged too much too fast, there have been major discussion about the influence of way these resources are used and how this is directly linked to the way we consume. Through the outsourcing of labour, developed countries not only pass on responsibilities of human and labour rights, they also outsource their actual consumption of energy, resources and waste. A recent report released by the OECD in 2011 discusses the major issues arising from that with main focus on water resources. It highlights the fact that efficiency and control in production processes and techniques will improve the situation but will not be the solution, rather patterns of and attitudes towards consumption have to change drastically in order to sustain an inhabitable environment.

Technological

“With new processes and an endless list of new materials at his disposal, the artist, craftsman, and designer now suffer from the tyranny of absolute choice. When everything becomes possible, when all the limitations are gone, design and art can easily become a never- ending search for novelty, until new- ness- for- the- sake- of- newness becomes the only measure.” (Popanek, 1985: 42)

Technology forms a major part of life and controls the way the world functions on every level, thereby driving an ever growing need for innovation. From manu-facturing processes to the way social communication functions, technology follows one everywhere. In a world where everything is controlled by machines and the value of hands and craft is loosing more and more significance in day to day life, one has to ask the question where this is leading to. Tradition and craftsmanship are being eradicated from life and knowledge passed on through generations is being pushed into oblivion. As mentioned above technology and innovation is essential for a better and more sustainable way of producing materials. But there is also a need to preserve tra-ditional knowledge and ask oneself if what makes a product good is its technological innovation or if there is another side to good product design, which does not need innovation and technology as mask for being viable in today's world.

APPENDIX 9

OECD (2011) Under Pressure – How Our Material Consumption Threatens the Planet's Water Resources

In many regions, cheap extraction is only possible at the cost of low social standards, human rights abuses, poor working conditions and inadequate wages.

As a consequence of the increased production of goods and services each year, ever more natural resources are required. In the last three decades worldwide ex-traction grew by about 60%, from below 40 billion tonnes in 1980 to more than 60 billion tonnes in 2007 (Figure 1).

Population and economic growth are the main drivers that increase pressures on water resources.

As Figure 6 shows, global direct material trade flows grew from about 3.8 billion tonnes in 1980 to 10.3 billion tonnes in 2008.

A study for the period 1997-200122 encompassing all the countries in the world showed that 16% of global water use is dedicated to the production of export goods and not used for domestic consumption. Out of this share, 61% can be allocated to the trade of crops and crop products, livestock products contribute 17% and industrial products 22% (Figure 10).

Paradoxically, our globalised economic system and the run for ever cheaper products has led many water rich countries into dependency on virtual water imports from countries with limited water resources. Consequently, local scarcity situations may become aggravated, and competition for water increases. In order to ensure a fair distribution of water resources, producing as well as consuming countries will have to assume greater responsibility for developing better global water man-agement

The textile industry has almost disappeared in the developed countries and moved its mills and factories to developing and emerging economies in Asia, which is by far the largest importer of cotton. Dhaka, the capital of Bangladesh, has around of 3,000 textile factories, where textile workers (usually women) produce around 250 t-shirts per hour and earn on average 42 Euro a month.26 The industry is characterised by high levels of electricity consumption and environmental pollution, and low social and environmental standards. Not surprisingly, the final price the final consumer pays for a t-shirt is usually significantly below the social, environmen-tal and economiccost of the journey.

One familiar consequence of overconsumption is climate change. Other major problems include the overconsumption of chemical fertilisers in agriculture, resulting in changes to the nitrogen and phosphorus cycles and excess nitrogen and phosphorus polluting our rivers, lakes, oceans and atmosphere. We have already passed the tipping points of climate change, biodiversity loss and nitrogen levels, and we are about to reach the tipping points of freshwater consumption, ocean acidifica-tion, land use and phosphorus levels.31

The water footprint resulting from our consumption habits is signifi cantly larger than our direct water use. Its size is largely determined by the consumption of food and other agricultural products which not only require irrigation water but also water acquired through rainfall. The world’s average annual per capita water footprint is around 1,400m3, but average water footprints differ significantly from country to country: 2,840 m3 in the United States of America, 1,380m3 in Japan, 1,070m3 in China.33 On a daily basis, the average North American has the largest water footprint (7,650l/cap), the average African has the lowest (3,350l/cap) (Figure 16).

The most material efficient countries in the world are in most cases also the ones which consume the most.

Producing the same with less water. The potential for water savings in manufacturing industries is large, for example through recycling and re-use, changing pro-duction processes and using more efficient technologies and introducing measures to reduce leakage.43 However, as the price of water is normally reasonably low, these measures have not yet received adequate attention.

Increased water efficiency as opportunity. Water efficiency can be improved by increasing the productivity per volume and by wasting less water. This requires tech-nological development as well as enhanced water governance, which can build on solid monitoring methodologies and data. Increasing water efficiency is not only essential for adapting to climate change, it is also an opportunity for economic benefits and environmental protection.

IMPROVING OUR MATERIAL AND WATER EFFICIENCY There are many steps we can take to improve our use of materials and water:MATERIAL USE: Better waste management: Adopting zero waste policies can achieve quick wins, for example minimising waste and maximising re-use and recy-cling.Ecological fiscal reforms: Shifting from taxes on labour to natural resources. This would incentiviseincreased material efficiency and a reduction in the overall use of materials.Eco-innovation for materials: Developing products, techniques, services and processes that usematerials efficiently. There is a big potential for companies to make better use of resources in production processes while also making economic savings.Increasing green public procurement: As major consumers of products and services, public authorities can be a driver for change. By implementing procurement standards, authorities can stimulate demand for products and services with a low resource input and drive companies to reduce their environmental impact.Changing consumption patterns: In countries with high per capita consumption, consumers cancontribute to a fairer share of global resource use. For example, they can reuse and recycle whereverpossible, and opt for goods that are durable or have a low resource input. Consumer choice may beassisted by the use of easily understandable product labels, indicating the resources (material, water,land and carbon emissions) used over the product’s life cycle.Research and development: Supporting research and development, especially in the field of materials and water research and strategies, will help to find solutions for reducing resource.

We live in an age characterised by high consumption patterns, which exceed the capacity of the world’s ecosystems to cope and regenerate.

Europe’s current model of economic growth is inherently linked to high levels of continuous consumption and therefore high levels of resource use.

It would also mean moving away from the idea that material wealth is intrinsically linked to an individual’s happiness and well being.

Although resources are mostly consumed in developed nations, globalised supply chains mean that the impacts are felt elsewhere.

APPENDIX 10 - UK jobs market faces 'slow, painful contraction

Katie Allen Monday 14 November 2011 08.13 GMT

Firms scale back recruiting decisions against background of global economic uncertainty, survey of employers finds

Britons have been warned to brace for a "slow and painful" deterioration in the labour market as a new report shows employers putting hiring plans on hold as they face rising economic uncertainty.Employment prospects are at their worst for almost a year, with public sector employers the most gloomy as government cuts continue to bite, according to the lat-est labour market outlook from the Chartered Institute of Personnel and Development.The deterioration comes as employers across the private, public and charity sectors report they are reluctant to hire but are also holding back from making staff redundant or moving jobs to cheaper locations abroad."The figures point to a slow, painful contraction in the jobs market. Many firms appear to be locked in 'wait and see' mode, with some companies scaling back on all employment decisions against a backdrop of increasing uncertainty as a result of the eurozone crisis and wider global economic turmoil," said Gerwyn Davies, public policy adviser at the CIPD."The good news resulting from this lull in business activity is that fewer employers are looking to relocate abroad or make redundancies. The downside is that recruitment intentions are falling, which will make further rises in unemployment therefore seem inevitable given that public sector job losses are outpacing the pre-dictions made by the Office for Budget Responsibility. There is no immediate sign of UK labour market conditions improving in the short or medium term."The quarterly survey's measure of employment prospects has fallen to -3% from -1% the previous quarter and is weakest since the end of 2010. The score meas-ures the difference between the proportion of the 1,000 employers surveyed who expect to increase staff levels and those who expect to decrease staff levels in the final months of this year.The CIPD says medium-term prospects are no better, with the 12-month index also showing more employers expect to cut staff levels than to raise them. The sur-vey indicates that the private sector looks set to grow in the next three months, but at a slower pace than in recent quarters, while confidence in the public sector remains low for the next three months and is even lower for the year ahead.Unemployment in the UK is already at a 17-year high and is expected to have risen further when official labour market data is published on Wednesday. The rate is seen edging up to 8.2% for September from 8.1% the month before, according to a Reuters poll of economists. They expected the number of people out of work and claiming benefits to have risen by a chunky 20,000 in October, reflecting a raft of recent surveys suggesting companies are cutting back their hiring intentions amid the uncertainty around problems in Europe and sluggish economic growth at home."Last month was the point when the labour market data finally cracked under the weight of the slowdown in the economy," said Philip Shaw, economist at Investec."The claimant count series is telling us that the increase in jobseeker's allowance claims is because of a slowdown in hiring rather than higher redundancies, but we are wary of a more aggressive increase in joblessness if a protracted period of slow growth, or worse, results in mass firings."CIPD's chief economic adviser John Philpott predicts unemployment will peak at 8.7%, or a total of 2.7 million people, in mid-2012. That compares with the 2.57 million reported for the three months to August, the highest since 1994.

APPENDIX 11 – MERIT

Volkshilfe is an Austrian charity fighting poverty in Austria and thereby providing a framework for the less fortunate in society. Merit is a sub- structure within this or-ganisation and provides help for women who have been out of work for a long time. A business was set up which is built around a workshop in the heart of Vienna providing a clothing alteration service as well as specialising in producing prototypes and small made- to- order ranges for designers working in the city. The women can work within this environment for a set amount of time and are then supported through the process of finding employment. It is meant to reintegrate and read-just people into the employment cycle and provides them with a new chance.This system provides one way of producing socially responsible and showing an awareness of issues apparent in society. It could easily applied in the Clicking & Closing process, as processes are not too difficult and the machines are mainly limited to a sewing machine which limits the costs of machinery and participants can quite easily be trained in workshops.

In the course of this term and the development of the concept for my brand the biggest theme in my thoughts was the fight between what is real and possible versus my idealistic and perhaps slightly naive personality. Within the creative industries I find it hard to comprehend the idea of ‘commercial viabilty” and I believe that great creative potential and success can only come from limitless imagination. While working on the concept development this has slowed me down and made it difficult for me to complete certain areas within the document. I always believed in collaboration and a communal sense of working, to me the concept of competi-tion and exploitation of others’ weaknesses somehow feels alien, unless it comes to a simple card game. I very much enjoyed working on my sketchbook and inspirational research, I feel that the theme I have chosen has given me enough room for visual as well as conceptual investigation. Reading and understanding different concepts within a variety of disciplines is essential to my creative process, as I feel that the world does not only revolve around the foot and that the potential for my own work is much bigger when merged with a bigger sense of the world. Within previous PPD statements I have stated that I believe my work could be improved if I manage to emotionally detach myself more from my work and thereby make it easier for me to achieve my goals. This term, however, I came to realise that I, personally, have to accept this as a given and part of what makes my work my own is the fact that it comes with an obligatory emotional roller-coaster. This is what drives me, it is the source of my ambitions and it reflects what I believe in, trying to minimise it or shut it out of the process would mean to stop challenging the work I do. Without it this term’s work would not be what it is, it would not reflect my personal aspira-tions and what I believe needs to change.Concerning professional development I believe that the work I have done speaks for itself, due to the amount of research and the goal to create a brand as close to reality as possible. Using different tools of investigation and compiling a report which makes sense not only to me but to others as well, shows and understand-ing of what needs to considered and understood. When setting up a small business, it is more than likely that most of the work will be done alone, it can be hard to cope with the amount of isolation and the decay of social engagements. During this term the pressure and influences had a rather big impact on me, I find it hard to restrict my daily life to one room and not to engage with other people, but it has shown me how it could be and I feel that I understood that you have to plan time well and that it is essential to let go for a day in order to gain some distance. While usually there is more interaction between students and a more intense exchange of ideas and experiences, this term this was kept to an absolute minimum, which I found difficult at times. Never the less, it has led me to a different realisation. I found it extremely helpful and inspiring to talk to my friends about the work I have done and the concept I am developing. As they all study or work in completely different fields,I find that each one of them has something else to say and dif-ferent ideas to offer. This further emphasises my idea and conviction that most inspiration comes from opening up your horizon and seeing what else is out there. It reveals ideas which would never come otherwise.

APPENDIX 12 - PPD