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Concepts of Knit Garments Merchandising

CONCEPTS OF KNIT GARMENTS MERCHANDISINGM.R. Karthikeyan, Expatriate Lecturer in Textile Engineering,Kombolcha Institute of Technology, Wollo University, EthiopiaEmail : srimrk@yahoo.com

Introduction:Merchandising denotes all the planned activit ies to execute and dispatch the merchandise on time takinginto consideration the 4 R’s of expediting Right Cost, Right Quantity, Right Quality and Right Time.

Functions of Merchandisers:

1. Execution of Sample orders

2. Costing.

3. Programming.

4. Yarn Procurement Arrangements.

5. Production Scheduling (or) Route CARD Draf ting.

6. Accessories arrangement (order placing f ollow-ups).

7. Approval of various processors’s sewing operations and f inishing processes.

8. Pattern approval (or) Dummy size set approval.

9. Size set approval.

10. Preproduction sample f ollow-ups.

11. Pilot run inspection.

12. In process inspection.

13. Production controlling.

14. Identif ying shortages and make arrangements f or the shortages.

15. Shortage quantity and quality f ollowing quality control procedures.

16. Following quality assurance procedures.

17. Maintaining the junior ’s activit ies of in house and sub-contractor units.

18. Buyer communication.

19. Communication with production units, processing units and other third party’s (vendors).

20. Proper reporting.

21. Highlighting to the management.

22. Record maintenance (Records pertaining to merchandising).

23. Developing samples.

24. Placement of orders.

25. Taking measures f or consistent production.

Knit g arme nt

26. Taking preventive actions to maintain the targeted Perf ormance level in all areas of merchandising.

27. Attending meetings with superiors and f urnishing the required details about merchandising.

1. Sample order execution:Af ter the receipt of the Specif ication, pertaining to the sample order, the merchandiser has tounderstand what the requirements of buyers are. Sometimes there may be amendments related to any ofthe specif ications in the sample order sheet. It is the duty of the merchandiser to execute sample order anddispatch on time the “Right quality.”2. Costing:The merchandisers should know the f ollowing details while costing.

Yarn cost.

Process cost (Knitt ing, Bleaching, and Raising etc.)

Rates pertaining to various sewing operations.

CMT(Cut Make Trim) Rate.

Ironing charges, packing charges and accessories rate.

Overheads.

Shortage (or) wastage 3%.

Free on Board (FOB) (Transport charges) 2% to 3%.

Insurance 2%-3%,

Buyers’ agents commission 5%-6%,

Quota rate per garment.

Prof it 15% - 20%

3. Programming:Most probably programming is done by production manager. In some companies it is done by themerchandisers. The f ollowing f actors should be considered in programming.

1. Allowances:

Fabric structure

Dia. f ixation (knitt ing dia., calendaring dia. and compacting dia.)

Process loss (shrinkage etc.)

Size wise piece weight

Extra quantity required

Size wise requirement (dia., colour (or) combination)

4. Route card Draft ing (or) Production Scheduling:For each and every order Route card (or) Production scheduling is to be done by the merchandisers. Itf acilitates the merchandiser to f ollow up the orders in planned manner. The f ollowing details (or) aspectsshould be considered in draf ting (or) scheduling.

Design

No. of sewing operations

No.of processes

Despatch date

No. of Components

Type of stitches

Order quantity

Production capacity of the in houses (or) sub-contractors unit and processing units.

Priorit izing the other f actors

Targeted dates f or various processes (or) stages of merchandising.

Actual f inishing date (To cross check the deviation between the planning and actual perf ormance anystage (or) Process). Targeted dates f or all the stages of merchandising should be decided. Actualdates on which a particular process (or) operation is actually done should also be entered inproduction scheduling. The merchandisers are accountable f or the deviation.

5. Accessories arrangements:Merchandiser has to make arrangements f or the timely delivery of the required accessories to theconcerned units. Accessories requisit ion slip may be used f or requirement purpose. The merchandiser hasto cross check the actual requirements af ter verif ying the details f urnished in accessories requisit ion f orm.Af ter the receipt of accessories quality check will be done.

6. Approvals:Approval is an authentication of all required conf ormances related to a process (or) an operation. Themerchandisers should know the quality parameters of various processes and sewing operations bef oreapprovals. There should not heron-conf ormities. Evidences f or approval should be cross checked toconf irm that all the approvals having made properly.

7. Approval of various processes sewing operations and f inishing processes:The various process of sewing operations and f inishing process such as patter making, cutting,sewing, ironing will be approved by the technical merchandisers

8. Pattern approvals:Patterns should be approved f or

Measurement

Style and f it

Allowances

Accuracy of pattern

If there is any non-conf ormance in pattern that should be corrected bef ore it is used in productionPattern approval samples will be received f rom the concerned units and approved by the approvaldepartment (or) merchandisers, If there is non-conf ormance in any size sample revised sample f or thatsize should be again submitted f or approval.

9. Size set approvals:Size set approvals are made by the approval department or) by the merchandisers. All the qualityparameters related to various processes, sewing operations have to be cross checked. The belowmentioned aspects should be considered.

Measurements

Aesthetics

Process quality

GSM

Piece shrinkage

Washing f astness of the piece

Sewing operation quality

Print (or) embroidery posit ion

Labeling instructions.

Size set approval seat will be prepared in triplicate.

Washing f astness of garment should be verif ied.

Shrinkage in garment can also be verif ied.

10. Pre-production samples:This samples should he submitted on time to the concerned person (Buyers, buyer agents of f icebuying of f ice). All the quality parameters have to be verif ied. In case of non-conf ormances it will bementioned in the approval sheet by the concerned persons. Sometime we may have to submit therevised samples af ter the required rectif ications.

11. Pilot run inspection:Pilot run denotes the f irst production garments quality parameters are verif ied and preventivemeasures can be taken. The f ollow up team should do pilot run inspection to identif y the variousdef ects and it will be rectif ied in production.

12. In process inspection:In process means in between any process (or) sewing operation (or) any activit ies related to execution ofan order. We can have procedures f or f requency and adequacy. In case of major non- conf ormities we haveto highlight the problems of quality at the right t ime to the right person without f ail. Consistent f ollow upinspection is a must to conf irm that all the required quality procedures are adopted by the concerned unitsand preventive actions are taken to enhance the perf ormance.

13. Production controlling:Controlling should be right f rom the operative level also. Ef f orts should be taken to control thenonconf ormities during production. Consistent supervision is essential to control the non-conf ormances.Periodical quality check should be done af ter an hour.

14. Shortage problem:The merchandiser has to identif y the shortages of any material that is yarn, f abric, accessories etc. right atthe init ial stages. Af ter identif ying the shortages steps are to be taken f or the arrangement of requiredmaterials on time. In case of shortages also we have to f ollow the quality control and quality assuranceprocedure without f ail. Quality of the material should not be compromised.

15. Following quality control procedures:In some companies written quality procedures are available in quality manual. The merchandiser has toknow all the procedures of quality control. In all processes and operations quality procedures should bef ollowed very strictly. It has to inculcate the importance of procedures to subordinates, in house units (or)own units, and sub contractors.

Following quality assurance procedures:All the required test procedures (as required by the buyer) should be f ollowed very strictly withoutpartiality. Evidences f or testing (test reports) tested samples, tested swatches, tested accessories) shouldbe maintained properly. Bef ore cutting, the merchandiser has to conf irm that the concerned unit has got allthe required approvals properly f rom the authorized person.

16. Monitoring the junior activit ies:The merchandiser has to monitor his sub-ordinates. He has to teach to the subordinates about the qualityprocedures. He has to give instructions to them bef ore going f or f actory visits. He has to discuss the

various activit ies to be executed on a particular day. The merchandiser has to control the activit ies of thesubordinates so that the perf ormance of the f ollowed team is good.

17. Monitoring the activit ies of in-house unit (or) sub-contractor units:The merchandiser has to monitor the activit ies of in-house unit (or) sub-contractor units. He has toconf irm that all the quality control procedures and quality assurance procedures are f ollowed up properlyby them (or) not. He has to inculcate the importance of adopting quality procedures to attain the plannedperf ormance level.

18. Buyer communication:The merchandiser has to go through the f axes coming f rom buyers and he has to send reply on time.Sometimes he has to f urnish the production status of a particular order to the concerned buyer on time.The below mentioned are some of the duties of buyer communication,

Sample execution

Amendments

Comments on the send samples

Sample order sheet

Buyer visit

Production status

Sending sample, swatches, Accessories regarding the approvals.

19. Communication with others:The merchandiser has to interact with in-house units, sub-contractors, vendors and job workers of variousprocessing. Through proper interaction only we make arrangements f or the timely supply of the requiredmaterials to the concerned persons. He has to know the production status f rom various units which will behelpf ul in proper f ollow and proper importing.

20. Proper Reporting:The merchandiser has to f urnish (or) best the report to the right person at the right t ime. He has to givereports f or the below mentioned activit ies

Sample execution

Approvals

Testing procedures

Production status

Programming

Shortage details

Inspection details arid status.

Production status f or meting etc.

Report f rom inspection agencies, testing labs

21. High Lighting:The merchandiser has to highlight the major problems in merchandising at the right t ime without f ail.Highlighting will f acilitate the superiors to take the necessary steps to tackle the problems on time. Properdecision is made due to t imely highlighting.

22. Record maintenance:The merchandiser has to maintain quality records pertaining to various buyer orders. Proper f iling should he

done, who can utilize the services of subordinates in record maintenance. The below mentioned are someexamples.

Sample details

Sample Inspection Reports

Testing Reports

Evidence of approvals

Proper f iling (Buyer wise, order wise)

Pattern Approval sheet/size set approval sheet (copy)

Pilot run Inspection Report

Fabric Inspection report

Mid Inspection Report

Inspection report f rom buying of f ice, buying agents and inspection agencies.

Test reports f rom inspection agencies and labs

Production status reports

Production status reports related to meetings

Pre-f inal inspection reports

Final inspection reports etc.

23. Developing samples:Some buyers will give specif ications (or) diagram (or) patterns f rom which you may have to developsamples. Samples may be f abric with required knit structure (or) garments with required specif ication. Themerchandiser has to consider all the quality parameters related to the samples to be developed. In case ofnon-conf ormities in the samples developed, revised samples may be send f or approval purpose. It is theduty of the merchandiser to dispatch the developed samples on to the concerned buyers by means ofconsistent f ollow-up.

24. Placements of orders:Priority is given to Approved sub-contractors af ter evaluation (when the production capacity is notsuf f icient) order is placed to new manuf acturers also orders can be placed to in-house units also. In somecompanies, merchandiser is accountable (or) responsible to f ind out the right manuf acturers af ter properevaluation. At the init ial stages small quantity order will be placed. Af ter verif ying their perf ormance largequantity orders will be placed. Yarn may be procured by the concerned unit (or) it may be supplied by thesupplier (the main manuf acturer). In case of CMT order af ter the conf irmation of average piece weight of aparticular size, processed f abric is delivered to the concerned unit by the supplier.

25. Taking measures for consistent production:It is the duty of the merchandiser to monitor the merchandising activit ies in accordance with the productionscheduling. He is accountable f or the execution of each and every process (or) an operation within thetargeted time. He has to take the necessary step f or the consistent production by tackling the problems inmerchandising. (e.g.)

Quality of yarn

Replacing good quality yarn

Consistent arrangement f or f abric

Timely arrangements f or the timely supply of accessories.

Shortage quantit ies f ollow up.

26. Preventive actions:Detection of def ects is not only the duty of merchandiser. He has to take preventive actions to eliminatedeviations in all the stages of merchandising.

27. Attending meetings with superiors:Meetings may be conducted f or general discussions about order execution (or) f or implementing newsystems like ISO (or) it may be a status meeting. In case of production status meeting the productiondetails about various buyers’ order will be collected by the merchandiser f rom dif f erent units and willf urnished to superiors. The merchandiser is accountable to answer the various questions raised by thesuperiors pertaining to the execution of the allotted orders.