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Conquer China’s Beauty Market Anna King Tel: +852 3462 2483 Email: [email protected] Website: www.cisema.com

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Page 1: Conquer China’s Beauty Market · Depilatories Body slimming. REGULATIONS & STANDARDS 8 Type Regulation & Standard Overarching Cosmetics Hygiene Supervision Regulation (CHSR) 1989

Conquer China’s Beauty Market

Anna King Tel: +852 3462 2483Email: [email protected]: www.cisema.com

Page 2: Conquer China’s Beauty Market · Depilatories Body slimming. REGULATIONS & STANDARDS 8 Type Regulation & Standard Overarching Cosmetics Hygiene Supervision Regulation (CHSR) 1989

COSMETICS REGISTRATION IN CHINA

Introduction – Administration Bodies – Definition: Cosmetics – Cosmetics Categories– Regulations & Standards

Two Different Approval Systems – Registration vs. Filing (opportunities and challenges)– Choice of NMPA Responsible Person– Special cosmetics: Registration – Non-special cosmetics: NEW Filing – Document Checklist– Chinese Label– Safety Limits– Test Duration and Costs– Do’s and Don’ts: Samples– Change & Renewal Application

.

Hot Topics – Animal Tests– Latest regulatory updates

(Microbeads and Overseas Inspection)

.

Page 3: Conquer China’s Beauty Market · Depilatories Body slimming. REGULATIONS & STANDARDS 8 Type Regulation & Standard Overarching Cosmetics Hygiene Supervision Regulation (CHSR) 1989

NMPA (National Medical Product Adminstration)Changed* Registration of pharma, cosmetics and medical devices;

supervision and management after registration

China Food and Drug Administration (CFDA)

2013 - New* Food safety 2017 - New* Infant formulas & food registration for medical purposes

State Food and Drug Administration (SFDA)

New* Administration and registration of foods, medical devices, health foods and cosmetics

State Drug Administration (SDA)

Administration and registration of pharma products

Evolution of NMPAHistory of NMPA

3

2003

2013 - 2017

2018

1998

Page 4: Conquer China’s Beauty Market · Depilatories Body slimming. REGULATIONS & STANDARDS 8 Type Regulation & Standard Overarching Cosmetics Hygiene Supervision Regulation (CHSR) 1989

4

Health Food

Food for Special Medical

Purposes

Infant Formula CFE

In-vitro Diagnostic

Medical Devices

CosmeticPharma Products

CFDA

NMPA

NMPA Categories

Page 5: Conquer China’s Beauty Market · Depilatories Body slimming. REGULATIONS & STANDARDS 8 Type Regulation & Standard Overarching Cosmetics Hygiene Supervision Regulation (CHSR) 1989

DEFINITION: COSMETICS

COSMETICS

Product property

Chemical products

Application

On external parts of human body

Application method

Spread Spray Other methods

Intended Effects

Cleanse the body

Eliminate unpleasant

odorProtect

skinImprove

appearance and beauty

Page 6: Conquer China’s Beauty Market · Depilatories Body slimming. REGULATIONS & STANDARDS 8 Type Regulation & Standard Overarching Cosmetics Hygiene Supervision Regulation (CHSR) 1989

COSMETICS CATEGORIESNon-special cosmetics

Non-special

cosmetics

Hair care

Skin care

FragrancesMake-up

Nail cosmetics

Page 7: Conquer China’s Beauty Market · Depilatories Body slimming. REGULATIONS & STANDARDS 8 Type Regulation & Standard Overarching Cosmetics Hygiene Supervision Regulation (CHSR) 1989

COSMETICS CATEGORIESSpecial cosmetics

Special cosmetics

Hair growth restoration

Breast enhancement

Deodorants

Spot removing

Sun screenprotection

Hair dyeing colorants

Hair perming

Depilatories

Body slimming

Page 8: Conquer China’s Beauty Market · Depilatories Body slimming. REGULATIONS & STANDARDS 8 Type Regulation & Standard Overarching Cosmetics Hygiene Supervision Regulation (CHSR) 1989

REGULATIONS & STANDARDS

8

Type Regulation & StandardOverarching Cosmetics Hygiene Supervision Regulation (CHSR) 1989Hygiene Standard Cosmetics Safety and Technical Standards 2015

Approval

Detailed Rules for the Implementation of CHSR 1991

Health Administrative Approval Procedures for Health-Related Products

Provisions for the Application & Acceptance of Cosmetics Administrative Approval

Guidelines for Registration Review and Approval of Imported Special Use Cosmetic Products

Guidance on Application and Review of New Cosmetic Ingredient

Guidance on Application and Review of Children’s Cosmetics

Page 9: Conquer China’s Beauty Market · Depilatories Body slimming. REGULATIONS & STANDARDS 8 Type Regulation & Standard Overarching Cosmetics Hygiene Supervision Regulation (CHSR) 1989

REGULATIONS & STANDARDS

9

Type Regulation & Standard

Testing Requirements for Cosmetic Administrative Licensing Testing 2010;Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics 2015

LabelingAdministrative Measures on Cosmetics Labeling

GB 5296.3-2008 General Labeling for Cosmetics

Naming Standard Chinese Name Directory for International Cosmetic Raw Materials 2010Standard Chinese Name Directory for International Cosmetic Raw Material (draft for comment) 2018

Ingredients Green List Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (IECIC) 2007Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (IECIC) 2015

Page 10: Conquer China’s Beauty Market · Depilatories Body slimming. REGULATIONS & STANDARDS 8 Type Regulation & Standard Overarching Cosmetics Hygiene Supervision Regulation (CHSR) 1989

New Filing System For Imported Non-Special Purpose Cosmetics

Source: 09.11.2018 NMPA Announcement No. 88-2018

As of 10 November 2018, foreign manufacturers have no choice anymore:

All imported non-special purpose cosmetics are subject to the

Special purpose cosmetics continue - as before - with the

New National UnifiedFiling Management

Registration in Beijing

Page 11: Conquer China’s Beauty Market · Depilatories Body slimming. REGULATIONS & STANDARDS 8 Type Regulation & Standard Overarching Cosmetics Hygiene Supervision Regulation (CHSR) 1989

Registration VS Filing

Filing ManagementRegistration

Type of cosmetic Special purpose cosmetics Non-special purpose cosmetics

Application location Beijing NMPA - Beijing NMPA(*)- Local MPA in 11 Free Trade Zones

Duration of approval(starting with type tests)

9-12 months 4-5 months

Certificate type Hard-copy Electronic

Certificate validity 4 years Unlimited(*)

Responsibility of Responsible Person

Registration Filing, import, operation, post-market safety

Residence of Responsible Person

No limitation - No limitation(*)- 11 New Trade Zones

Import All ports - All ports(*)- 11 New Trade Zones (unless info of new import ports and consignee is submitted to filing system)

(*) Only for imported cosmetics

Tianjin, Liaoning, Shanghai, Zhejiang,

Fujian, Henan, Hubei, Guangdong,

Chongqing, Sichuan, Shaanxi provinces

Page 12: Conquer China’s Beauty Market · Depilatories Body slimming. REGULATIONS & STANDARDS 8 Type Regulation & Standard Overarching Cosmetics Hygiene Supervision Regulation (CHSR) 1989

NM

PA

Res

pons

ible

Pe

rson

Legal entity in China

Authorized by applicant

Responsible for the registration (special) / filing (non-special)

Stamps and signs the application documents

Ensures that all submitted registration documents shall be truthful and in line with requirements

Bears the corresponding legal responsibility and all the consequences arising therefrom, if there are any inaccuracies

Non-special cosmetics:Responsible for the import, marketing, product safety

- Have an actual office address- The registered address must be in the filing port- Domestic Responsible Person’s business license must cover cosmetic business- One overseas cosmetic manufacturer can appoint several Domestic Responsible Persons but one product can only have one Domestic Responsible Person.

DO‘S AND DON‘TSNMPA Responsible Person

New

12

Page 13: Conquer China’s Beauty Market · Depilatories Body slimming. REGULATIONS & STANDARDS 8 Type Regulation & Standard Overarching Cosmetics Hygiene Supervision Regulation (CHSR) 1989

13

DO‘S AND DON‘TSNMPA Responsible Person

Foreign Manufacturers

Own Subsidiary

Distributor

Consulting Firm

Foreign manufacturers require a legal entity in China for the registration of cosmetics:

Intellectual property!Insight into application documentation, including confidential confirmation (e.g. formula, production process).Special purpose cosmetics: Receives certificate!The manufacturer cannot import products into China, change or renew the certificate without the support of the distributor.

Independence!This solution is neutral and preserves full control over NMPA online account, ensures independence for future decisions, including distributor changes or multiple distributors.Resources and knowledge for all regulatory affairs matters -during and after approval.

Page 14: Conquer China’s Beauty Market · Depilatories Body slimming. REGULATIONS & STANDARDS 8 Type Regulation & Standard Overarching Cosmetics Hygiene Supervision Regulation (CHSR) 1989

REGISTRATION PROCESS(Special Purpose Cosmetics)

Collection ofRegistration Files

Preparation & Submission of

Registration Files

Submission for Second Review

NMPAAdministrative Review

Responsible PersonApplication

Packaging & FormulaAnalysis

NMPA AccountOpening

Sample Transport

Sample Testing

Preparation of Supplementary Files

after Receiving Supplementary Notice

NMPA Approval

Customs Clearance & Import

Certificate Issuing

NMPA Technical Review

Page 15: Conquer China’s Beauty Market · Depilatories Body slimming. REGULATIONS & STANDARDS 8 Type Regulation & Standard Overarching Cosmetics Hygiene Supervision Regulation (CHSR) 1989

REGISTRATION CERTIFICATE(Special Purpose Cosmetics)

Page 16: Conquer China’s Beauty Market · Depilatories Body slimming. REGULATIONS & STANDARDS 8 Type Regulation & Standard Overarching Cosmetics Hygiene Supervision Regulation (CHSR) 1989

FILING PROCESS(Non-Special Purpose Cosmetics)

Collection ofRegistration Files

Preparation & Submission of

Registration FilesAdministrative Review

Packaging & Formula Analysis

A) NMPA Approval

NMPA Technical Review(within 3 months)

Responsible PersonApplication

NMPA AccountOpening

Sample Transport

Sample Testing

Customs Clearance & Import

Electronic Certificate

Issuing

B) Submission of Supplementary Files Within 30 Days

C) Import of Distribution of Products Shall Be Suspended

D) Remove and Recall Products From The Market

Page 17: Conquer China’s Beauty Market · Depilatories Body slimming. REGULATIONS & STANDARDS 8 Type Regulation & Standard Overarching Cosmetics Hygiene Supervision Regulation (CHSR) 1989

ELECTRONIC FILING CERTIFICATE(Non-Special Purpose Cosmetics)

Page 18: Conquer China’s Beauty Market · Depilatories Body slimming. REGULATIONS & STANDARDS 8 Type Regulation & Standard Overarching Cosmetics Hygiene Supervision Regulation (CHSR) 1989

Document Checklist(Non-Special Purpose Cosmetics)

1) Power of Attorney & Letter of Authorization between applicant and Domestic Responsible Person

2) Business License of Domestic Responsible Person

3) Application form

4) Chinese product name and nomenclature

5) Product formula containing the INCI name, content and function of each ingredient

6) Packaging layout (including labels and inlet)

7) Chinese label

8) Free Sales Certificate

9) BSE free statement

10)Original ISO/GMP certificate

11)Contract manufacturing agreement (if applicable)

12)Product quality and safety control file

13)Production process (flowchart)

14)Safety test report

15)Risk assessment report of potential risk substances included in formula

16)Technical requirements

Page 19: Conquer China’s Beauty Market · Depilatories Body slimming. REGULATIONS & STANDARDS 8 Type Regulation & Standard Overarching Cosmetics Hygiene Supervision Regulation (CHSR) 1989

Chinese Label

For the import of cosmetics, a Chinese Label shall be applied to the original package.

This Chinese Label must contain the following information:

19

Product name

Country of origin

Name and address of the manufacturer

Address of contract manufacturer

Name and address of the Responsible Person

Approval number

Ingredient list

Production date and Shelf life, or Batch number and expiration date

Net content

Cautions

Usage instructions and storage conditions

Page 20: Conquer China’s Beauty Market · Depilatories Body slimming. REGULATIONS & STANDARDS 8 Type Regulation & Standard Overarching Cosmetics Hygiene Supervision Regulation (CHSR) 1989

Application DossierSafety Limits

Product quality and safety control requirementsDepending on the concrete products, the following quality and safety control items shall be followed, where they are applicable.

20

Item Limit

Aerobic Bacterial Count (CFU/g or CFU/ml):500 (cosmetics for eyes, lips and

baby)1000 (other cosmetics)

Molds and Yeast Count: (CFU/g or CFU/ml): 100Thermotolerant Coliform Bacteria (g/or ml) Not detection

Staphylococcus Aureus (g/or ml) Not detectionPseudomonas Aeruginosa (g/or ml) Not detection

Lead (Pb) (mg/kg): 10Mercury (Hg) (mg/kg): 1Arsenic (As) (mg/kg): 2

Cadmium (Cd) (mg/kg): 5Dioxane (mg/kg): 30

Methyl alcohol (mg/kg): 2000

Formaldehyde (mg/kg): 200050000 nail hardening

Asbestos (mg/kg): Not detection

Page 21: Conquer China’s Beauty Market · Depilatories Body slimming. REGULATIONS & STANDARDS 8 Type Regulation & Standard Overarching Cosmetics Hygiene Supervision Regulation (CHSR) 1989

TESTING DURATION AND COST*

21

Category Subcategory Duration(Month)

Basic testing fee(RMB)

Human body testing fee(RMB)

Testing fee / per type of substance** (RMB)

Non-special cosmetics

3 6,300.00 –8,300.00

N.A. 500.00 – 1,500.00

Special cosmetics

Sun screenprotection

6 12,300.00 >10,000.00 500.00 – 1,500.00

Hair dyeing 4 14,500.00 N.A. 500.00 – 1,500.00

Hair perming 4 18,700.00 N.A. 500.00 – 1,500.00 Depilatories 4 5,600.00 6,000.00 500.00 – 1,50.00 Body slimming 8 17,300.00 18,000.00 500.00 – 1,500.00

Hair growing 8 22,300.00 18,000.00 500.00 – 1,500.00 Breast enhancement

8 17,300.00 18,000.00 500.00 – 1,500.00

Deodorants 4 8,500.00 2,700.00 500.00 – 1,500.00

Spot removing 4 12,400.00 2,700.00 500.00 – 1,500.00

*: figures are estimations and are regularly subject to change**: dioxane, phenol, methyl alcohol, formaldehyde, diethylene glycol, pesticide residue etc.

Page 22: Conquer China’s Beauty Market · Depilatories Body slimming. REGULATIONS & STANDARDS 8 Type Regulation & Standard Overarching Cosmetics Hygiene Supervision Regulation (CHSR) 1989

Samples

22

Unsealed samples may lead to failure on microorganism testsSamples should not be close to expiration“Dummy“ packaging is insufficient

Page 23: Conquer China’s Beauty Market · Depilatories Body slimming. REGULATIONS & STANDARDS 8 Type Regulation & Standard Overarching Cosmetics Hygiene Supervision Regulation (CHSR) 1989

CHANGE & RENEWAL APPLICATION

Change ApplicationFor example:• Address change of (contract) manufacturer• Change of NMPA Responsible Person• Change of product name in Chinese

Renewal Application – In the Past

• Submit no later than 6 months before expiration date of certificate• In case there are changes of the regulations or technical standards,

timely initiation of the renewal is important to avoid disruption of sales• Cisema reminds clients 1 year in advance

If this concerns non-special cosmetics, which were approved under the old system, change application is impossible.

Instead: filing!

This applies to special purpose cosmetics only!

Page 24: Conquer China’s Beauty Market · Depilatories Body slimming. REGULATIONS & STANDARDS 8 Type Regulation & Standard Overarching Cosmetics Hygiene Supervision Regulation (CHSR) 1989

RENEWAL APPLICATION(Special Purpose Products)

Announcement on Renewal Commitment System to Hygiene Permit of Cosmetics for Special Purpose (NMPA No. 45-2019) – released 29.05.2019

Status Quo: products have been sold in China for the last 4 years

Problem: Previously, NMPA took at least 6 months for renewal verification, therefore many hygiene permits (certificates) expired before a new one could be obtained.

Future Timeline of renewal application :

Start self-checking 6 months before certificate expirationSubmission deadline 30 working days before certificate expiration Certificate renewed at around 15 working days after acceptance New validity starts from previous expiration date

Page 25: Conquer China’s Beauty Market · Depilatories Body slimming. REGULATIONS & STANDARDS 8 Type Regulation & Standard Overarching Cosmetics Hygiene Supervision Regulation (CHSR) 1989

RENEWAL APPLICATION(Special Purpose Products)

Announcement on Renewal Commitment System to Hygiene Permit of Cosmetics for Special Purpose (NMPA No. 45-2019) – released 29.05.2019

Product self-checking report is the key to a successful renewal application• Consistency with documents (e.g. formula) submitted in previous registration• Compliance with current regulation and standard (e.g. without newly prohibited

ingredient)• Records of changes or renewals• Sales records in the past 4 years (full test may be required)• Status of monitoring adverse reaction and the corresponding measures that have

been taken• If applicant is punished due to violation of regulation, applicant should report the

status of rectification, and extra test may be required

Verification Results:Pass Supplementary information shall be submitted (different deadlines) Certificate is revoked

Page 26: Conquer China’s Beauty Market · Depilatories Body slimming. REGULATIONS & STANDARDS 8 Type Regulation & Standard Overarching Cosmetics Hygiene Supervision Regulation (CHSR) 1989

Cosmetics Import

26

There are 3 feasible ways for cosmetics importation in China.

Cruelty Free

Page 27: Conquer China’s Beauty Market · Depilatories Body slimming. REGULATIONS & STANDARDS 8 Type Regulation & Standard Overarching Cosmetics Hygiene Supervision Regulation (CHSR) 1989

Animal Tests

Test Item Test Method Date Application scopeSkin phototoxicity In Vitro 3T3 Neutral Red

Uptake Phototoxicity Assay (In Vitro 3T3 NRU PT)

11th Nov, 2016

cosmetic ingredient

Skin corrosion In Vitro Skin Corrosion: Transcutaneous Electrical Resistance Test (TER)

21st Aug, 2017

cosmetic ingredient

Skin photoallergy Skin Photoallergy Test 21st Aug, 2017

cosmetic ingredient and cosmetic product

Skin sensitization In Chemico Skin Sensitisation: Direct Peptide Reactivity Assay (DPRA)

22nd Mar, 2019

cosmetic ingredient

Eye irritation or corrosion

Short Time Exposure In Vitro Test Method (STE)

22nd Mar, 2019

cosmetic ingredient

Skin sensitization Skin Sensitization: Local Lymph Node Assay: DA (LLNA:DA)

22nd Mar, 2019

cosmetic ingredient

Skin sensitization Skin Sensitization: Local Lymph Node Assay: BrdU-ELISA (LLNA:BrdU-ELISA)

22nd Mar, 2019

cosmetic ingredient

Page 28: Conquer China’s Beauty Market · Depilatories Body slimming. REGULATIONS & STANDARDS 8 Type Regulation & Standard Overarching Cosmetics Hygiene Supervision Regulation (CHSR) 1989

REGULATORY UPDATES

Date Announcement

10.09.2019

&

12.09.2019

NMPA announced changes to cosmetics sample tests in China (No. 72-2019). Laboratories need to re-apply for their qualification as a testing institutions because the relevant qualification will be automatically suspended on 01.11.2019. Furthermore, cosmetics enterprises and their NMPA Responsible Persons will have to apply for and manage tests online. New mandatory test items for: - Methanol, Phenol, Diethylene glycol, Dioxane, Acrylamide, Anti dandruff agent, Formaldehyde, Asbestos, α-hydroxy acid, Pesticide residues - >0.5% sunscreen agents in non-sunscreen products- human tests: rinse-off products claiming anti-acne, anti-wrinkle, anti-spot- efficacy test: anti-spot (whitening), hair growth

Page 29: Conquer China’s Beauty Market · Depilatories Body slimming. REGULATIONS & STANDARDS 8 Type Regulation & Standard Overarching Cosmetics Hygiene Supervision Regulation (CHSR) 1989

REGULATORY UPDATES

Date Announcement

22.11.2019 NMPA released a draft regulation, which would require foreign manufacturers to undergo overseas inspection of cosmetics production facilities to standardize and optimize the inspection process before foreign manufacturers import cosmetic products to China.

06.11.2019 China’s National Development and Reform Commission announced (No.29-2019) the prohibition of daily chemical articles containing plastic microbeads for production after December 31, 2020, and for sale after December 31, 2022.

Page 30: Conquer China’s Beauty Market · Depilatories Body slimming. REGULATIONS & STANDARDS 8 Type Regulation & Standard Overarching Cosmetics Hygiene Supervision Regulation (CHSR) 1989

Our worldwide locations

Cisema (Hong Kong) Limited7/A, Shun Pont Commercial Building5-11 Thomson Road, Wan ChaiHong Kong

Speaker: Anna KingEmail: [email protected]: www.cisema.com

Tokyo

Coventry

Seoul