construction bottoms (lined and unlined)

8/11/2019 Construction Bottoms (Lined and Unlined)

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Ann Taylor

Ann Taylor LoftAnn Taylor Factory Stores

Construction Guidelines

CAREER & RELAXED SEPARATES

BOTTOMS

Lined & Unlined



Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines

Career and Relaxed Separates Bottoms - Lined & Unlined 5 February 2004

CAREER & RELAXED SEPARATES BOTTOMS

INTRODUCTION:

The Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Construction Guidelines represent the base standards for garment construction methods, terminology and

components.

These guidelines provide a common approach to achieve consistent construction and superlative quality for all Ann Taylor, Ann Taylor Loft and

Ann Taylor Factory Stores apparel products.

The guidelines are a resource to establish requirements for styling, garment construction and component parts.

NOTE: See Garment Specification Package for style specific construction and components.

CUTTING & MATCHING REQUIREMENTS:

SHADES: All shades are to be individually labeled.

PLAIDS & STRIPES (Vertical and Horizontal): Plaid is to match around garment.

Horizontal stripes are to match around garment.

Pockets & Flaps to match vertical and horizontal pattern (unless otherwise specified in Spec Package). Left and right of garments are to have balanced placement.

One-way fabrics are to be cut in same direction unless otherwise specified to be “A”/”B” marker.

Style specific plaid & stripe placement requirements are to be reviewed and documented on Development Spec Package. NOTE: Placement is to be confirmed prior to fit approval and documented in Production Spec Package.

STANDARD GENERAL DETAILS FOR CAREER & RELAXED SEPARATES PANTS & SKIRTS: Fully Lined.

Stitches per Inch (SPI): Shell: 10-12 SPI Topstitching: See Spec Package. Lining: 10-12 SPI Lockstitch or Chainstitch

FUSIBLE INTERLINING GUIDELINES: All Interlinings, primary standard or otherwise, are to be tested for all fabrications to verify compatibility and performance.

Following parts to be fused, unless indicated otherwise in Spec Pkg.:

* Inner & Outer Waistband - Note: Contour Waistbands, cut 2 piece fusible w/ Front and Back Waistband fusible parts cut on “Straight Grain”

(Waistband Fusible Quality Options: Outer Waistband: Kufner #R861 /PCC #1061 Inner Waistband: Kufner #V401 / PCC #2610)

* Waist Facing * Zipper Setting + Fly Facing& Extension * Pocket Edge + Pocket Setting





STANDARD CONSTRUCTION GUIDELINES SECTION (PAGES 6-16):

PANT LEG PRE-CREASE:

NOTE: See Spec Package for style details - Crease OR NO Crease.

CenterofLeg

B9-1 Pre-Crease Leg

FrontFront

CenterofLeg

Note:

Crease Leg toThigh Line Only

Thigh

Line

Crease along

center of Leg

NO Creasefrom Waist to

Thigh line

Center of leg is at "right angle" to Hem line.

Align

Outsesam &Inseam edgefrom Knee to

Leg Opening

Front Leg

Back Leg

At "final" pressing:

Position along Front leg

crease prior to pressing

Back Leg crease.

Note: Inseam and

Outseam are aligned

from Knee to Leg

Opening.





PANT CONSTRUCTION METHODS:NOTE: • See Specification Package for “Construction Method”.

• Thread / Needle size compatible with fabric quality. • Overedge stitch width 1/8” minimum.

Method 1 Seam Type Seam Pressing(Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.) • Lockstitch; Open w/ Overedge • Outseam • Inseam • Open press

• Lockstitch; Open w/ Overedge

(double stitch base of Rise)

• Front Rise • Back Rise • Open press – above rise curve

Method 2 Seam Type Seam Pressing(Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.)

• Lockstitch; Open w/ Overedge • Outseam • Inseam • Open press

•

Chainstitch; Open w/ Overedge •

Front Rise • Back Rise •

Open Press – above rise curve


• Lockstitch; Open w/ Overedge • Outseam • Inseam • Open press

• Safety Stitch • Front Rise • Back Rise • Press toward wearer’s left (Exception: Menswear

Fly Closure, pressed toward wearer’s right)


• Lockstitch; Closed w/ Overedge • Outseam • Inseam • Press toward back

• Lockstitch; Closed w/Overedge

(Double stitch base of Rise)

• Front Rise • Back Rise • Press toward wearer’s left (Exception: Menswear



• Chainstitch; Closed w/ Overedge • Outseam • Inseam • Press toward back

•

Front Rise • Back Rise •

Press toward wearer’s left (Exception: MenswearFly Closure, pressed toward wearer’s right)


• Safety Stitch • Outseam • Inseam • Press toward back

• Front Rise • Back Rise • Press toward wearer’s left (Exception: Menswear






SKIRT CONSTRUCTION METHODS:NOTE: • See Specification Package for “Construction Method”.

• Thread / Needle size compatible with fabric quality. • Overedge stitch width 1/8” minimum.


• Lockstitch; Open w/ Overedge • Side seams • Center Back • Open press

• Panel seams • Center Front


• Chainstitch; Open w/ Overedge • Side seams • Center Back • Open press

• Panel seams • Center Front


• Lockstitch; Closed w/ Overedge • Side seams • Press toward back

• Center Back • Press toward wearer’s left

• Center Front • Press toward wearer’s right

• Panel seams • Press toward center


• Chainstitch; Closed w/ Overedge • Side seams • Press toward back





•

Safety Stitch •

Side seams •

Press toward back





• French Seam • Side seams • Press toward back

•

Center Back •

Press toward wearer’s left• Panel seams • Press toward center





STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED & UNLINED PANTS & SKIRTS:

Lockstitch - Open Press w/Overedge Finish Chainstitch – Open Press w/ Overedge Finish

Open Press

Lockstitch Overedge

Lockstitch

A1-1 Lockstitch w/Overedge finish - Open Press

Seam Details

•

1/2” seamallowance

• Overedge at

raw edge

• Lockstitch

• Open Press

(Above rise

curve)

(Note:

If Topstitched,

press to one

side of seam.

See Spec Pkg.)

A1-2 Chainstitch w/ Overedge finish - (Open press)

Chainstitch(under side)

Overedge

Open Press

(top sideof stitch)

Overedge

Seam Details

•

1/2” seamallowance

• Overedge at

raw edge

• 2-Thread

Chainstitch

•

Open Press

(above rise

curve)

(Note:

If Topstitched,

press to one side

of seam. See

Spec Pkg.)

Lockstitch - Closed w/ Overedge Safety Stitch

LockstitchClose w/ Overedge

A1-5 Lockstitch; Closed w/Overedge -

(press to one side)

Seam Details

• 3/8” to ½”

seam

allowance

• Lockstitch

• Closed w/

Overedge

• Press to one

side

(See

Construction

Methods Chart

/ Spec Pkg.)

Chainstitch(under side)

(top side

of stitch)

Overedge Stitch

A1-6 Safety Stitch (5-Thread)

Safety Stitch(Combination of

Single Needle Chainstitch

+ Overedge Stitch)

Press to One Side (see Spec Pkg)

Seam Details

• 3/8” seam

allowance

• Press to one

side (see

ConstructionMethods Chart or

Spec Pkg.)

• Shell seams

• Lining seams






Felled Seam w/ Chainstitch Felled Seam w/ Lockstitch

A1-20 Felled seam - Chainstitched

Chain Stitch

Outside of Garment Inside of Garment

Cross Section

Through

Stitch

Seam allowances inter-lap

ThroughStitch

Seam Details

•

Lapped Seam

(Raw edges

enclosed)

• 1/4” to

3/8”seam

allowance

•

2-ThreadChainstitch

Outside View

A1-21 Felled seam - Lockstitched

Inside View

Lockstitch

Seam allowances inter-lap

Through

Stitch

Cross Section

Through

Stitch

Seam Details

•

Lapped Seam

(Raw edges

enclosed)

• 1/4” to 3/8”

seam

allowance

•

Lockstitch

Lockstitch; Raw Edge

Seam Types: Waistband / Waist Edge, Pocket Edge

LockstitchRaw Edge

A1-0a Lockstitch; Raw Edge - (press to one side)

Lockstitch

Seam Details

• 1/4” seam

allowance

• Edge seams

•

Internal seams(i.e. Waistband

/ Waist Edge,

Pocket Flap)

• When pressed

to one side

(See

Construction

Methods Chart orSpec Pkg.)

Back Tack

1/2" Tail

A2-0a Dart Seam w/ Lockstitch

Single Point

*Follow Dart Guideon pattern

Darts

• Lockstitch

• Press dart

toward Center

Front / Center

Back

• Run off Dart

Point w/ ½”

tail.

• No dimpling at

Dart Point

•

Follow Dart

marker

A T l Gl b l S i S d d C i G id li





LEATHER SEAMING

Lockstitch – Glued Open Press Lockstitch – Glued Pressed Closed

A1-25 Lockstitch; Open Press & Glued

Raw Edge

Lockstitch join seam

Open Press

and

Glued

Seam Details

• Lockstitch

• Pressed Open

& glued

•

3/8” to 1/ 2”

seam allowance

(depending onseam location)

Lockstitch join seam

Raw Edge

A1-26 Lockstitch;

Press to one side

and Glued

Seam Details

• Lockstitch

• Pressed to one

side & glued

•

3/8” to 1/ 2”

seam allowance

(depending onseam location)

A T l Gl b l S i St d d C t ti G id li






Stay-Stitch (Pre-Stitch) Hip Curve Inseam – for patterns w/ Back Inseam shorter than Front Inseam.

Seam Line

B9-2 Hip Curve Stay-Stitch

F ro nt

Staystitch1/16"fromSeamline

Seam Line

Back

Staystitch

1/16"fromSeamline

Seam Details

PANT: Outseam

SKIRT: Side

Seam

• Lockstitch

•

Stitch in seamallowance

(approx. 1/16”

from seam line)Stretch

Back Inseam

evenly to

matchFront Inseam

I n s e a m

I n s e a m

(align edge

@ seam)

(match notches)

KneeKnee

Back RiseFront Rise

B9-3 Inseam from Rise to Knee

* NOTE: For patterns w/ Back Inseam shorter than

Front Inseam from Rise to Knee

(match notches)

Seam Details

• ½” Seam

allowance

(unless noted

otherwise in

spec pkg.)

A T l Gl b l S i St d d C t ti G id li





STANDARD LEG OPENING FINISHES:

Blindstitch requirements:

• Machine should be set to 1:1 stitch ratio

•

Do not use skipstitch function ( 2:1 or 3:1) unless specified by Technical Design.• Overlap blindstitch by 1” and lock tail either by tacking or by using a self locking blindstitch machine. (Treasure Co. produces such a machine)

• Recommended Needles: Groz-Beckert V-Needle size 65. Needle will be relevant to fabric.

• Recommended Thread Quality: Amann Serafil 200/2 ( www.amann-online.de ). Thread quality will be relevant to fabric.

With Hem Tape (Non-Stretch fabrics)

A15-7 Hem w/Taped Edge; Bendback; Blindstitch

Outside Garment Inside Garment

Hem Tape

Blindstitch

Set tape w/ Edgestitch

(No deep stitch pick )

1:1 stitch ratio

No Hem Tape (Stretch Fabrics, unless otherwise noted in Spec Pkg.)

A15-6 Hem w/ Overedge; Bendback; Blindstitch

Outside Garment Inside Garment

OveredgeBlindstitch

(No deep stitch pick )

1:1 stitch ratio

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines





STANDARD LEG OPENING FINISHES (continued)

Cuff w/ 2 Tacks (for Narrow Leg Opening)

A15-9a Cuffed Hem w/ 2 Tacks - Hem Tape & Blindstitch (Inseam & Outseam)

Outside Garment

Seam

CUFF

Stitch-tackat Seams

(under cuff)

Inside Garment

Seam

Hem Tape & Blindstitch(No deep stitch pick; 1:1 stitch ratio)

Hem Tape

& Blindstitch

A15-9b Cuffed Hem w/ 2 Tacks - Overedge & Blindstitch

(Inseam & Outseam)

Outside Garment

Se

am

CUFF

Stitch-tackat Seams

(under cuff)

Overedge& Blindstitch

Overedge Finish & Blindstitch(No deep stitch pick; 1:1 stitch ratio)

Inside Garment

Seam

Cuff w/ 4 Tacks (for Wide Leg Opening)

A15-10a Wide Cuffed Hem w/ 4 Tacks - Hem Tape &

Blindstitch (Inseam, Outseam & Leg center)

Hem Tape & Blindstitch(No deep stitch pick; 1:1 stitch ratio)

CUFF

Stitch-tack

at Seams,

Frt & BkCreases

(under Cuff)

Outside Garment

Hem Tape

& Blindstitch

Seam

Inside Garment

Seam

Inside GarmentOutside Garment

Se

am

Seam

CUFF

Stitch-tackat Seams,Frt & BkCreases(under Cuff)

A15-10b Wide Cuffed Hem w/ 4 Tacks - Overedge Finish

(Inseam, Outseam & Leg center)

Overedge Finish & Blindstitch(No deep stitch pick; 1:1 stitch ratio)

Overedge Finish& Blindstitch






STANDARD LINING REQUIREMENTS:Pattern Requirements

• Lining pattern pieces each 1/8” larger than shell. • Lining Hem Height: 5/8” Full Bendback: Lockstitch

Lining Attachment to Shell:

Inseam

Lining hem:* Finish 3/4" above self hem edge

OR

* Center of shell hem(unless otherwise noted in spec pkg.)

B8-1 Pant Lining- Crochet Thread Tack

1 1/2"Crochet

thread

Lining

Note: See Spec Pkg for Hem finish.

B8-2 Skirt Lining- Crochet Thread Tack

Lining hem:* Finish 3/4" above self hem edge

OR * Center of shell hem(unless otherwise noted in spec pkg.)

1 1/2"Crochetthread

Side Seam

Lining

Note: See Spec Pkg forHem finish.

STANDARD BUTTON SETTING:• Button Placement aligned at Buttonhole outer end.

• Leather and Suede - Stay button for all “functional” buttons.

B8-3 Outside Button Setting

* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per spec pkg

Outside Button:

* Set w/ Lockstitch machine* Thread Shank w/ wrap (except Button w/ self shank)

* Logo Buttons set w/ logo in same direction.

Button Setting:* 2-Hole Button: Align 2 holes w/ Buttonhole.

* 4-Hole Button: Set w/ "X" stitch

(unless specified otherwise).


B8-4 Inside Button Setting

Inside Button: * 2-Hole Button;* Dyed to Match; Matte Finish

* Set w/ 2 holes aligned w/ buttonhole

* Stitch through inner layer only.






STANDARD INSIDE BUTTONHOLE TYPES & PLACEMENT:

Ann Taylor StoresFor Waistband Height up to 1 ½” wide For Waistband Height wider than 1 ¾”

B8-5 Keyhole Inside Buttonhole - Waistband Height up to 1 1/2"

* Waistband / Garment Opening (with or without Inside Extension)* Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg

Center Buttonhole on Waistband Center Buttonhole on Waistband Center Buttonhole on Waistband

NOTE: See Spec Pkg for:

B8-6 Keyhole Inside Buttonhole - Waistband Height 1 3/4" or wider

Set Buttonhole 3/4" down fromtop edge of Waistband


NOTE: See Spec Pkg for


LOFT & Factory StoresFor Waistband Height up to 1 ½” wide For Waistband Height wider than 1 ¾”


NOTE: See Spec Pkg for:

B8-7 Straight Inside Buttonhole - Waistband Height up to 1 1/2"

Center Buttonhole on Waistband Center Buttonhole on Waistband Center Buttonhole on Waistband

B8-8 Straight Inside Buttonhole - Waistband Height 1 3/4" or wider




NOTE: See Spec Pkg for






CONCEALED ZIPPER CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS

These standards are to be used in the following product categories where concealed zippers are common:

• Dresses

• Skirts

• Blouses

• Pants

1.

Ann Taylor has pre-approved 2 primary suppliers of concealed zippers, YKK & Coats-Opti. All concealed zippers should besourced from either of these brands.

2. It is preferred that Zippers are ordered to length.

3. Zippers cut to length must be secured and clean finished at the end with lining when used in product without a lining.

4. Shell fabric seam should be reinforced with interlining/stay tape prior to setting zipper.

5. Areas of bulk on the seam should be reduced by one of the following methods :

Medium-Heavyweight fabrics use open seams.

Lightweight fabrics: Open seams or if using closed seams press shell. seam allowance and lining seam allowance in

opposite direction

6. Lining should be set min ¼ from zipper teeth at inside.

7. Zipper tail should be tacked to shell on one side only

8. Clean finished Lining seam should be closed from ¾” below zipper opening at base.

9. Concealed zipper size will be specified by TD.

Suppliers are required to achieve the objective of a concealed zipper that performs its function satisfactorily at all times. If these

standards are at any time found to be either insufficient or impede the achievement of this objective the supplier is expected to raisethis concern to AT TD or QA.






STYLE SPECIFIC CONSTRUCTION OPTIONS (PAGES 18 – 61)

ZIPPER CLOSURES:

*Waistband/ Waist Finish

per Spec Pkg

A4-1a Lapped Zipper Setting - Closed Bottom

A4-2a Kissing Zipper Setting - Closed Bottom

*Waistband/ Waist Finish per Spec Pkg

A4-3a Exposed Zipper Setting - Closed Bottom


Invisible Zipper: ⇒ “Sealed” at bottom Length: ⇒ 1 1/2” longer than Opening ⇒ Order to length do not cut to length.


A4-4a Invisible Zipper Setting - Closed Bottom

Seam Line

Bottom ofZipper

Interlining Width:1/4" beyondseam line

Interlining Length: 1" beyond

Zipper Opening

A4-a Invisible Zipper Interlining -Pant / Skirt:

A4-b Invisible Zipper setting w/ Waistband

Inside of Waistband

* Clip seam allowance at 1" from opening edge.

* Open press Waistband seam allowance 1".

Press seam allowance toward Waistband

w/ Zipper to top edge

Zipper Sealed End

Shell -Inside of Garment

Lining

A4-4a Invisible Zipper -Inner Construction; LINED

* Stitch Zipper Tape tail

to one seam allowance

*BIAS Skirts: Do not

stitch Zipper Tail to seam allowance.

Zipper Tail 1" to 1 1/2"

longer than

Zipper Opening

A4-4a Invisible Zipper - Open Seam Inner Construction; UNLINED

Sealed End

* Stitch Zipper Tape tail

to one seam allowance

*BIAS Skirts: Do not

stitch Zipper Tail to

seam allowance.

Inside of Garment

Zipper Tail 1 to 1 1/2"

longer than

Zipper Opening

* Stitch Zipper Tapetail to one seam allowance

*BIAS Skirts: Do notstitch Zipper Tail to

seam allowance.

A4-4a Invisible Zipper - Closed Seam Inner Construction; UNLINED

Sealed End

* Safety Stitch seam

from 2 1/2" belowZipper Tail

* Press to Back orWearer's Left Back

Open Press forZipper Setting

Lockstitch

Zipper Tail 1" to 1 1/2" longer

than Zipper Opening




y u g u u


FLY CLOSURES:Fly Closure - Shaped Fly Extension, with Waistband:

NOTE:

•

Sketch for Fly Constructiononly.

• See Spec Package for:

Inside Waist Finish

Outside Closure

• Zipper Placement:

Top: ¼” maximum down

from seam.Bottom: ¼” maximum up

from Fly stitch.

FlyS

eam Backstitch or

Edgestitch(per Spec Pkg)

1 1/4"

Inside top edge:

1/8" belowoutside top edge

B4-10a Shape Fly Extension w/ Waistband -

2 1/2"

ImaginaryFly seam line 2 1/2"

Inside of Garment

Standard Measurements

* Reinforce Fly Opening

w/ Stitch-tack or Bartack

* Upper tack to be maximum

1/8" above Zipper Head

(w/ zipper fully open)

B4-1 Shaped Fly Extension w/Waistband; Lined & Unlined

* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg

Inside of Garment

Raw edge

Zipper Teeth set 3/8"

from Front Edge

Edgestitch

Outside of Garment

Wearer's

LeftClean Finish Backstitch

or

Edgestitch

* See Spec Pkg

Fly Closure - Shaped Fly Extension, without Waistband

NOTE:

• Sketch for Fly Construction

only.


Inside Waist Finish

Outside Closure


Top: ¼” maximum down

from seam.

Bottom: ¼” maximum up

from Fly stitch.

Inside top edge:

B4-10b Shaped Fly Extension w/o Waistband

Facing

Inside of Garment

Backstitch or Edgestitch* See Spec Pkg

Wearer's

Left

1 1/4"

2 1/2"

FlySeam

Standard Measurments

1/8" belowoutside top edge

Outside of Garment

Inside of Garment

B4-2 Shaped Fly Extension w/Facing; Lined & Unlined

* NOTE: Waist Facing Finish per Spec Pkg

Clean FinishEdgestitch

Zipper Teeth set 3/8"from Front Edge

Wearer'sLeft

Backstitch or Edgestitch* See Spec Pkg

* Reinforce Fly Openingw/ Stitch-tack or Bartack

* Upper tack to be maximum1/8" above Zipper Head


Buttonhole Type per Standard

w/ Button Closure




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FLY CLOSURES: (continued)

Fly Closure: 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension; Clean Finish at bottom(with Waistband & Waistband Extension options):

NOTE:• Sketch for Fly Construction only.


Finish at bottom of Fly Extension

Inside Waist Finish

Inside / Outside Waistband Extension

Outside Closure


Top: ¼” maximum down from seam.

Bottom: ¼” maximum up from Fly

stitch.

1 1/2"

Wide,Topto

Bottom

B4-11a Straight Fly Extension Width

w/ Waist Band

Fly

Seam

B4-5a 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Clean finish at bottom

Inside Waistband Extension w/ Straight End


Outside of Garment

Inside of Garment


EdgestitchClean Finish

Fold


w/Stitch-tack or Bartack * Upper tack to be maximum



1 1/2" InsideExtension

Clean Finish

B4-5b 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Clean finish bottom

Inside Waistband Extension w/Pointed End



Clean Finish Edgestitch

Fold

Outside of Garment

Inside of Garment

1" Extension to corner

3/4" Point

* Reinforce Fly Openingw/Stitch-tack or Bartack


1/8" above Zipper Head(w/ zipper fully open)

Clean Finish

Outside of Garment

Inside of Garment

Fold


B4-5c 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Clean finish at bottom

No Inside Extension


w/Stitch-tack or Bartack * Upper tack to be maximum


* See Spec Pkg forWaistband Extension(spec, straight vs pointed end)

Clean Finish




y g



Fly Closure: 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension; Overedge Stitch at bottom(with Waistband & Waistband Extension options):




Inside Waist Finish


Outside Closure




stitch.

1 1/2"

Wide,

Topto

Bottom

B4-11a Straight Fly Extension Widthw/ Waist Band

Fly

Seam

B4-15a 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Overedge at bottom; Inside Waistband Extension w/Straight End


Outside of Garment

Inside of Garment


EdgestitchClean Finish

Fold




1 1/2" Inside

Extension

Overedge Stitch

B4-15b 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Overedge bottomInside Waistband Extension w/Pointed End



from Front Edge

Clean Finish Edgestitch

Fold

Outside of Garment

Inside of Garment


3/4" Point


* Upper tack to be maximum1/8" above Zipper Head(w/ zipper fully open)

Overedge Stitch

Outside of Garment

Inside of Garment

Fold


B4-15c 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Overedge at bottom

No Inside Extension


w/Stitch-tack or Bartack



* See Spec Pkg for

Waistband Extension(spec, straight vs pointed end)

Overedge Stitch






Straight 2-Piece Fly Extension(with Waistband & Waistband Extension options):




Inside Waist Finish


Outside Closure

•

Zipper Placement:



stitch.

1 1/2"

Wide,

Topto

Bottom

B4-11a Straight Fly Extension Widthw/ Waist Band

Fly

Seam


B4-6a 2-Piece Straight Fly Extensionw/Inside Waistband Extension - Straight End

Clean Finish


from Front Edge

Outside of Garment

Seam w/BackstitchOR Edgestitch

Edgestitch





1 1/2" Inside

Extension

Inside of Garment

Inside of Garment

Clean Finish


Edgestitch

Outside of Garment


B4-6b 2-Piece Straight Fly Extensionw/Inside Waistband Extension - Point End

* Reinforce Fly Opening w/ Stitch-tack or Bartack * Upper tack to be maximum


Seam w/BackstitchorEdgestitch

3/4" Point


* See Spec Pkg for

Waistband Extension

(spec, straight vs pointed end)





Seam w/

Backstitchor

Edgestitch

B4-6c 2-Piece Straight Fly Extension

Outside of Garment


Inside of Garment

Edgestitch


from Front Edge

w/Outside Waistband Extension






Fly Closure - Straight Fly Extension, without Waistband Ladies Button Fly Closure

NOTE:

•

Sketch for Fly Construction only.



Inside Waist Finish

Outside Closure


Top: ¼” maximum down from

seam.


stitch.

1 1/2"

Wide,Top

to

Bottom

B4-11b Straight Fly Extension Width

w/ Facing

NOTE:

Facing Finish

per Spec Pkg.

Fly

Seam

Edgestitch

Outside of Garment Inside of Garment

B4-9 Button Fly Ladies Closure

* Bartack to reinforce

Fly Opening* Upper tack to be maximum



Fold

Waist SeamWaist Seam

W a i s t S e

a m

Ladies Fly Closure & Men’s Fly Closures:

B4-12a Ladies Fly Closure w/ Waistband

Outside of Garment - Closed

NOTE: Waistband w/ or

w/o Topstitching.

See Spec Pkg.


B4-12b Ladies Fly Closure w/ Facing

NOTE: Facing w/ or w/o Topstitching.

See Spec Pkg.


B4-13a Men's Fly Closure w/ Waistband

* Note: All Construction Reverse of Ladies Closure

NOTE: Waistband w/ or

w/o Topstitching.

See Spec Pkg.

NOTE: Facing w/ orw/o Topstitching.See Spec Pkg.

* Note: All Construction Reverse of Ladies Closure

B4-13a Men's Fly Closure w/ Facing






WAISTBAND OPTIONS – CLOSED W/ CRACKSTITCH:

OpeningEdge

a. Waistband w/

Straight Front Edge

Crackstitch

Open

ingEdge

Crackstitch

b. Waistband w/Straight Outside Extension

B1 Waistband Closed w/ Crackstitch Finish

Outside Views

OpeningE

dge

c. Waistband w/

Pointed Outside Extension

Crackstitch

Clean Finish at Inside Edge

Inside View

O

pe

ningEdge(SeeSpecPkg

)

Clean Finish

Backstitch

Crackstitch

Turn

Back

Edge Seam allowance

Stay Tape

Inner ConstructionTurn Back

Inner Waistband

Outer WB

B1-1a Contour Waistband - Clean Finish @ Inside Edge;

closed w/Crackstitch (w/ or w/o Lining)

See Spec Pkg for shape at

end of Waistband

Top

edgeseam

B1-1b Straight Waistband - Clean Finish @ Inside Edge;closed w/Crackstitch (w/ or w/o Lining)

O

peningEdge(SeeSpecP

kg)

See Spec Pkg for

Waistband end

Inside View

Seam allowance

Outer WB

Clean Finish Turn

BackEdge

Inner Construction

CrackstitchInner Waistband

Turn Back

Top edge





WAISTBAND – CLOSED W/ CRACKSTITCH (continued):

Overedge Finish at Inside Edge

Inside View

OpeningEdge(See

Spe

cPkg)

Clean Finish

Backstitch

Crackstitch

OveredgeSeam allowance

Overedge

Inner Construction

Outer WB

B1-2a Contour Waistband - Overedge Finish @ Inside Edge;

closed w/ Crackstitch (w/ or w/o Lining)

Inner Waistband

See Spec Pkg for

Waistband end

Top

edgeseam

Stay Tape

OpeningEdge(SeeSp

ec

Pkg)

B1-2b Straight Waistband - Overedge Finish @ Inside Edge;

closed w/ Crackstitch (w/ or w/o Lining)

Clean Finish

See Spec Pkg forWaistband end

Inside View

Overedge

Inner Waistband Crackstitch

Outer WB

OveredgeSeam allowance

Inner Construction

Top edge

Binding Finish at Inside Edge

Inside View

O

peningEdge(SeeSpecP

kg)

Clean Finish

Backstitch

Crackstitch

3/16" BindingSeam allowance

Binding

Outer WB

Inner Construction

B1-3a Contour Waistband-Binding Finish @ Inside Edge;closed w/Crackstitch (w/ or w/o Lining)

Inner Waistband


Top

edgeseam

Stay Tape

O

peningEdge(See

SpecPkg)

B1-3b Straight Waistband-Binding Finish @ Inside Edge;closed w/Crackstitch (w/ or w/o Lining)

Clean Finish

Inside View


Binding

Inner Waistband Crackstitch

Outer WB

3/16" BindingSeam allowance

Inner Construction

Top edge





WAISTBAND – CLOSED W/ CRACKSTITCH (continued):

Waistband set to Lining

Inside View

Openin

gEdge(S

eeSpecPkg)

Backstitch

Crackstitch

Seam allowance

toward body

Seam allowance

Stay Tape

Inner Construction

Seam allowancetoward Lining

Outer WB

Lining

Inner Waistband

Lining

B1-4a Contour Waistband set to Lining; closed w/Crackstitch

See Spec Pkg for

Waistband end

Topedgeseam

OpeningEdge(See

SpecP

kg)

Seam allowance

toward body

B1-4b Straight Waistband set to Lining; closed w/Crackstitch

Lining


Inside View

Inner Waistband

Seam allowancetoward Lining

Seam allowance

Crackstitch

Outer WB

Inner Construction

Lining

Top edge

WAISTBAND OPTIONS – CLOSED W/ CRACKSTITCH & TOPSTITCHED:• See Spec Package “Design Details” for Topstitching Details (Single or Double Needle).

OpeningEdge

a. Waistband w/Straight Front Edge

Crackstitch

OpeningEdg

e

Crackstitch

b. Waistband w/

Straight Outside Extension

B1-6 Waistband closed w/ Crackstitch & Topstitched

Outside Views

OpeningEdge

c. Waistband w/

Pointed Outside Extension

Crackstitch





WAISTBAND OPTIONS – CLOSED W/ CRACKSTITCH & TOPSTITCHED:

Clean Finish at Inside Edge

Inside View

OpeningEdg

e

Clean Finish

Crackstitch

TurnBackEdge

Topstitch (see Spec Pkg)

B1-7a Contour Waistband-Clean Finish @ Inside Edge;

closed w/ Crackstitch; Topstitched

See Spec Pkg for shape atend of Waistband

Inner Construction

Seam allowance

Inner Waistband

OuterWB

Stay Tape

Raw Edge

Top

Edge

* See Spec Pkg for Closure

Backstitch

OpeningEdge

B1-7b Straight Waistband-Clean Finish @ Inside Edge; closed w/ Crackstitch; Topstitched


TurnBackEdge

Crackstitch

Clean Finish

See Spec Pkg for shape atend of Waistband

Inside View

Inner Waistband

Seam allowanceOuter WB

Inner Construction

Raw Edge

Top edge

Backstitch


Overedge at Inside Edge

OpeningEdge

CleanFinish

Crackstitch

Overedge

Inside ViewTopstitch (see Spec Pkg)

B1-8a Contour Waistband-Overedge Finish @ Inside Edge;

closed w/Crackstitch; Topstitched

Overedge

Inner Waistband

Outer WB

Seam allowance

Inner Construction

Stay Tape


end of Waistband

TopEdge

Backstitch


OpeningEdge

B1-8b Straight Waistband-Overedge Finish @ Inside Edge; closed w/Crackstitch; Topstitched


end of Waistband

Inside View

CleanFinish

Inner Waistband

Inner Construction

Overedge

Crackstitch

Outer WB


Seam allowance

Overedge

Top edge

Backstitch






WAIST FACING OPTIONS:

OpeningE

dge(SeeSpecPkg.)

Waist Facing

Inside View

Overedge,Bendback & Edgestitch

Backstitch

Inside of Waist Facing

Waist Join Seam

Inner Construction

Bottom Edgeof Facing

Stay Tape

Overedge,

Turnback &Edgestitch

Backstitch

B2-1 Waist Facing w/Overedge, Bendback & Edgestitch Finish

Open

ingEdge(See

SpecPkg

.)

Waist Facing

Clean Finish

Backstitch

Inside View


OveredgeFacing Edge

Overedge

Waist JoinSeam

Inner Construction

Stay Tape

B2-2 Waist Facing w/Overedge Finish

Backstitch

Inside View

Ope

ningEdge(SeeSpecP

kg

)

Waist Facing

Clean Finish

Backstitch

3/16" Binding

Stay Tape

Binding @Facing Edge

Inner Construction


Facing Seam

Backstitch

B2-3 Waist Facing w/Binding Finish; (w/ or w/o Lining)

OpeningEdge(SeeSpecPkg.)

B2-4 Waist Facing Finished w/ Lining

Lining

Waist Facing

Backstitch

Inside View

PressTowardLining

Facing/Lining

Joining Seam

Waist Join Seam

Inner Construction

Stay Tape

Waist Facing - InsideFacing/LiningJoining Seam

Inside of Lining

Backstitch





OTHER WAIST EDGE FINISHING OPTIONS:

OpeningEdge(SeeSpe

cPkg.)

Fold EdgestitchBinding

Inside View

Inner Construction

Inside of WaistBinding

Waist Join SeamStay Tape

Edgestitch

B2-5a Waist Edge Finished w/ Binding; Edgestitched (w/ or w/o Lining)

Top Edge

TopEdge ofBinding

BindingEdgestitch

Opening

Edge(SeeSpecPkg.)

Fold

Outside View

OpeningEdge(S

eeSpecPkg.)

Fold CrackstitchBinding

Inside View

Inner Construction

Inside of WaistBinding

Waist Join Seam

Stay Tape

Crackstitch

B2-5b Waist Edge Finished w/ Binding; Crackstitched (w/ or w/o Lining)

Top Edge

TopEdge of

Binding

Fold Crackstitch

Open

ingEdge(S

eeSpe

cPkg.)

Outside View





OTHER WAIST EDGE FINISHING OPTIONS (CONTINUED):

Inside View

OpeningEdge

(SeeSpe

cPkg.)

Lining

Topstitch

Top

Edge

Waist JoinSeam

Inside of Garment

Stay Tape

Inside of Lining

Inner Construction

B2-6 Waist Lined to Top Edge

OpeningEdge(S

eeSpec

Pkg)

Clean Finish(set Facing to

Lining w/ Topstitch)

B2-7a Waist Lined to Top Edge + Facing w/ Clean Finished Edge

Lining

Waist FacingBackstitch

Inside View

Waistband Join Seam

(Tape as needed. See Spec Pkg)

WaistFacing

Liningto Waist

EdgeTopstitch (to set facing)

Lining to Waist Edge

Inner Construction

Inside of Waist Band Waist Edge

Joining Seam

Backstitch

O

peningEdge(SeeSpecP

kg

)

B2-7b Waist Lined to Top Edge + Facing w/ Overedge Finish

Backstitch

Lining

Topstitch Facingto Lining

Waist Facing

Inside View


Topstitch (to set facing)

Waistband Join Seam


Lining

to WaistEdge

Waist

FacingOveredge

Waist Edge

Joining Seam

Inner Construction

Overedge

Inside of

Waistband





LEATHER WAIST EDGE FINISHING OPTIONS:

OpeningEdge(S

ee

SpecPkg)

B2-8a Leather - Waist Lined to Top Edge + Facing

Topstitch Facing

to LiningRaw Edge

Lining

Waist FacingBackstitch

Inside View

Waist Band Join Seam(Tape as needed. See Spec Pkg)

RawEdge

Waist

Facing

Liningto Waist

Edge


Topstitch (to set Facing)

Inner Construction

Inside of

Waist Band

Waist Edge

Joining Seam

OpeningEdge(

Se

eSpecPkg)

B2-8b Leather - No Waistband w/ Facing; Lined to Top Edge

Topstitch Facing

to Lining

Raw

Edge

Lining

FacingBackstitch

Inside View

Facing Raw

Edge

Lining

to WaistEdge

Lining set to Top Edge

Topstitch (to set Facing)

Inner Construction

Waist Top Edge Join Seam

(Stay tape as needed. See Spec Pkg.)

OpeningEdge(Se

eS

pecPkg)

B2-9a Leather - Waistband w/Facing applied to Lining

Topstitch Facing

over Lining

RawEdge

Lining

Facing

Backstitch

Inside View

Waistband Join Seam


Facing

RawEdge

Facing

Lining

w/

OveredgeFinish

Inner Construction

Waist Top Edge Joining Seam;(Tape as needed. See Spec Pkg.)

Lining w/ Overedge finish

OpeningEdge(SeeS

pecPkg)

B2-9b Leather - No Waistband; Facing applied to Lining

Topstitch Facingover Lining

Raw

Edge

Lining

Facing

Backstitch

Inside View

FacingRawEdge

Facing

Lining

w/Overedge

Finish

Inner Construction

Waist Top Edge Joining Seam;(Tape as needed. See Spec Pkg.)

Lining w/ Overedge finish





BELT LOOPS OPTIONS:

(4) Reverse

Bendback

(5) Outside

Stitch-tack

(3) Inside

Stitch-tack

(2) Reverse Bendback (1) Stitch-tack

B3-3b Clean Finish Top & Bottom

Outside Stitch-tack @ Top

(4) ReverseBendback

(5) Inside

Stitch-tack

(3) Inside

Stitch-tack

(2) Reverse Bendback (1) Stitch-tack

B3-3c Clean Finish Top & Bottom

Inside Stitch-tack

B3-6 Set in @ Waistband Join Seam;

Clean Finish @ Top - Inside Stitch-tack

(5) Inside

Stitch-tack (4) ReverseBendback

(3) Stitch-tack

(1) Set intoWaistband

(2) Stitch-tack or Bartack

B3-7b Set in @ Waistband Join Seam;Clean Finish @ Top - Outside Stitch-tack

(5) Outside

Stitch-tack (4) Reverse

Bendback

(3) Stitch-tack

(2) Stitch-tack or Bartack

(1) Set into

Waistband

B3-9 Set in @ Top Edge;Clean Finish @ Bottom - Inside Stitch-tack

(4) Stitch-tack (3) ReverseBendback

(2) Stitch-tack

(1) Set intoWaistband

B3-10b Set in @ Top Edge;Clean Finish @ Bottom - Top Outside Stitch-tack

(4) Bartack

(3) ReverseBendback

(2) Stitch-tack

(1) Set into

Waistband


( )




BELT LOOPS OPTIONS (Continued):

B3-12 Set in Top Edge &Waistband Join Seam

Set into

Waistband

Set into

Waistband Inside Stitch-tack

Press w/ Seam centered

A12-1a Tubular-Belt Loop

A12-1b Tubular-Belt Loop

Seam at edge.

Top side Under side

A12-2 Coverstitched-Belt Loop

A12-3a Folder Finish-Belt Loop

A12-3b Wide Folder Finish - Belt Loop

A12-4a Crochet Belt Loop/Tear Drop (at seam)

Seam

A12-4b Crochet Belt Loop /Tear Drop (at edge)

A12-4c Crochet Belt Loop/

Tear Drop (set in Seam)

A12-4d Crochet Belt OpenLoop(set in Seam)


WELT POCKET OPTIONS




WELT POCKET OPTIONS:

Welt Pockets - 1+1 Back Darts and 2+2 Back Darts

w/ 1+1 Back Darts

* w / or w/o Bartack

See spec pkg - Detail Sketch

B5-1a Back Welt Pocket -

No Edgestitch

Outside of Garment



B5-1b Back Welt Pocket -

w/ Edgestitch

Outside of Garment

w/ 2+2 Back Darts

B5-1c Back Welt Pocket -no Edgestitch



Outside of Garment

Note: w/ or w/o Waistband

Outside of Garment

Note: w/ or w/o

Waistband

B5-1d Back Welt Pocketw/ Edgestitch



Besom Pockets - 1+1 Back Darts and 2+2 Back Darts

w/ 1+1 Back Darts

B5-2a Back Besom Pocket -No Edgestitch

Outside of Garment



Note: w/ or w/o Waistband

B5-2b Back Besom Pocket -

w/ Edgestitch

Note: w/ or w/oWaistband



Outside of Garment

w/ 2+2 Back Darts

B5-2c Back Besom Pocket - no Edgestitch


* w / or w/o Bartack See spec pkg - Detail Sketch

Outside of Garment

B5-2d Back Besom Pocket - w/ Edgestitch

Outside of Garment







BESOM POCKET OPTIONS:

Welt & Besom Pockets - Front PocketsHorizontal or Angled (See Design Sketch).


B5-1e Front - Welt

Outside of Garment

Pocket - No Edgestitch



B5-1f Front Welt

Outside of Garment

Pocket - w/ Edgestitch

B5-2e Front Besom Pocket -no Edgestitch

Outside of Garment


B5-2f Front Besom Pocket -

w/ Edgestitch


Outside of Garment

POCKET BAGS FOR WELT & BESOM POCKET:

Pocket Bag Terms:• Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment.

• Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.

Pocket Bag for Back Welt & Besom Pocket -

Length:4 1/2" from upperWelt seam

Pkt Bag set in Waist /Waistband stitch

Upper Seam

Facing Applied

onto Pocket Bag

Version 2:Self-Facing

1) Full Self OR

2) w/Applied Self Facing(see Spec Pkg Detail sketch)

Top & Under Pocket Bag:


Length:3 1/2" from upperWelt seam

B5-a Regular Length B5-b Short Length

Pocket Bag for Back Welt & Besom Pocket - Clean Finish

Length:

4 1/2" from upperWelt seam

Pkt Bag set in Waist /

Waistband stitch

Upper Seam

Facing Applied onto

Pocket Bag

Version 2:

Self-Facing

1) Full Self Pocket Bag

OR 2) w/Applied Self Facing(see Spec Pkg Detail sketch)


Fold

* Clean finish* Seam allowance

enclosed

Backtackcorner

Backtackcorner

Fold

* Clean finish* Seam allowance

enclosed


Length:3 1/2" from upper

Welt seam

B5-d Regular Length B5-e Short Length





BESOM & WELT POCKET OPTIONS:

Vertical or Angled Besom & Welt Pockets

Outside of Garment

B5-3a Vertical Besom Pocket - no Edgestitch

Seam

w/ or w/o Bartack See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch

Note: w/ or w/o

Waistband

S

eam

Outside of Garment

B5-3b Vertical Besom Pocket - w/ Edgestitch


Note: w/ or w/o

Waistband


B5-3c Vertical Welt Pocket - no Edgestitch


Seam

Outside of Garment

w/ or w/o Bartack

See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch


B5-3d Vertical Welt Pocket - w/ Edgestitch

Outside of Garment

S

eam

Pocket Bag Terms:

• Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment.


Vertical Welt & Besom Pocket - Inside of Garment

Seam

Inside of Garment

Waist Edge

1) Full Self OR

2) w/Applied Self Facing

(see Spec Pkg Detail sketch)

SetFacing

ontoBag



“O S A ” OC O O S




“ON SEAM” POCKET OPTIONS:

Vertical “On Seam” PocketsPocket Bag Terms:

•

Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment.• Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.

Inside Stitch-tack

Seam

B5-4a Vertical "On Seam" Pocket - No Topstitch @ Opening w/ Inside Stitch-tack

Outside of Garmentw/ inside Stitch-tack

Seam

Inside of Garment

See Spec Pkg forPocket Facing type.

Note: w/ or w/o

Waistband Waist Edge

Inside Stitch-tack

Seam

Outside of Garment w/ Bartacks

Bartack


Bartack

See Spec Pkg for

Pocket Facing type.

Seam

Inside of Garment

Waist Edge

B5-4a Vertical "On Seam" Pocket - No Topstitch @ Opening

w/ Bartack

See Spec Pkg forPocket Facing type.

Inside Stitch-tack

Seam

Sea

m

Inside Stitch-tack

B5-4b Vertical "On Seam" Pocket - Topstitch @ Opening w/ Inside Stitch-tack

Note: w/ or w/o

Waistband

Outside of Garment

w/ inside Stitch-tack

Waist Edge

Inside of Garment

* Topstitch Opening

* See Design Detail

Sketch for spacing.

Seam

Outside of Garment

w/ Bartacks

Bartack

Note: w/ or w/o

Waistband

Bartack See Spec Pkg for

Pocket Facing type.

Se

a m

Inside of Garment

Waist Edge

B5-4b Vertical "On Seam" Pocket - Topstitch @ Opening w/ Bartack

* Topstitch Opening* See Design Detail

Sketch for spacing.






Vertical “On Seam” Pocket Facings

Backstitch@OpeningEdge

SelfFacing

Seam

Seam

Inside of Garment

B5-5a Vertical Onseam Pocket w/ Applied Facing;

Under Pocket bag

SelfFacing

Seam

Top Pocket bag

Facing applied onto Pocket BagStitch-tack or Bartack See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch.

Waist Edge

Pocket Bag Terms:



Stitch-tack or Bartack

See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch.

Seam

B5-5b Vertical Onseam Pocket w/ Self Extended Facing

Top & Under

Facings

extend from

Front & Back

Inside of Garment

Stitch-tack or

Bartack 1/2" down

from Waist seam

Waist Edge






Horizontal / Angled “On Seam” Pockets

Pocket Bag Terms:


•

Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.

B5-4c Horizontal / Angled "On Seam" Pocket -

No Topstitch @ Opening

See Spec Pkg for

Pocket Facing type.

Seam

Inside of Garment

Stitch-tack or Bartack See Spec Pkg - Detail Sketch.

Pocket Opening

Backstitch along inside edge

Poc k eting

Top Pocket Bag: 1 Piece self or pocketing fabric. See Spec Pkg Trim pg.

Under Pocket Bag - Inside of Garment

B5-6a On-Seam Pocket Bag - Applied Facing -for Horizontal / Angled Pocket

Pocketing

Under Pocket Bag

On-Seam Pocket seam

Self-Applied

Facing

Clean Finish or Overedge

"Face" side ofUnder Pocket Bag

B5-4d Horizontal / Angled "On Seam" Pocket -Topstitch @ Opening

Pocket Opening

Stitch-tack or Bartack

See Spec Pkg - Detail Sketch.

See Spec Pkg for

Pocket Facing type.

Seam

Inside of Garment

* EdgestitchOR

* Backstitch inside edge & Topstitch

** See Spec pkg

Pocket Bag: Self or pocketing fabric.

See Spec Pkg Trim pg.

B5-6b On-Seam Pocket Bag - 1 Piece Top & Under

for Horizontal / Angled Pocket

Pocket Bag

Inside of Garment

Seam


QUARTER TOP POCKET OPTIONS:





Quarter Top Pocket w/ Waistband* Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.

Inside Stitch-tack

1/2" up

Inside Stitch-tack

1/2" down

B5-8a Quarter Top Pocket w/ Waistbandw/ Inside Stitch-tack

Waistband

Outside of Garment

Pocket Opening -w/ or w/o Topstitching.


B5-8b Quarter Top Pocket w/ Waistband w/ Bartack

Bartack

See Spec Pkg -

Detail sketch

Outside of Garment

Pocket Opening -w/ or w/o Topstitching.


Waistband

Pocket Bag Terms:



B5-8c Quarter Top Pocket w/ Waistband -Straight Self Facing; Open Pressed Side Seam

SideSeam

Waistband

Under Pocket

Liningor

Pocketing fabric

Liningor

Pocketing fabric

Self-Quarter Top Piece;

applied onto Pocket Bag

SideSe

am

Pocket Bag

set into Waist Seam

Self Under Pocket Bag

SideSe

am

SideSe

am

LiningorPocketing fabric

Waistband

Under Pocket

B5-8d Quarter Top Pocket Bag w/ Waistband -

Self Under Pocket Bag; Open Pressed Side Seam

See Spec Pkg for TopPocket Bag fabrication

Pocket Bag

set into Waist seam

Under Pocket

B5-8e Quarter Top Pocket Bag w/ Waistband -

Shaped Self Facing; w/ Open Pressed Side Seam

Liningor

Pocketing fabric

Waistband

Side

Seam

Pocket Bagset into Waist seam

Lining

or

Pocketing fabric








Quarter Top Pocket w/ NO Waistband* Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.

B5-9a Quarter Top Pocket - No Waistband

w/inside Stitch-tack

Waist Top Edge

SideSeam

Outside of Garment

Inside Stitch-tack1/2" up

Inside Stitch-tack1/2" down Pocket Opening -

w/ or w/o Topstitching.See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch

B5-9b Quarter Top Pocket - No Waistband

w/ Bartack

SideSe

am

Outside of Garment

Waist Top Edge

Pocket Opening -

w/ or w/o Topstitching.


Bartack

See Spec Pkg -Detail sketch

Pocket Bag Terms:• Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment.


B5-9c Quarter Top Pocket Bag w/ No Waistband -Straight Self Facing; Open Pressed Side Seam

Self-Quarter Top Piece;applied onto Pocket Bag

SideSeam

Liningor

Pocketing fabric

SideSeam

Liningor

Pocketing fabric

Waist Facing

Under Pocket Pocket Bag to Top edge

B5-9d Quarter Top Pocket Bag w/ No Waistband -

Self Under Pocket Bag; Open Pressed Seam

Self Under Pocket Bag

SideSeam

Under Pocket

See Spec Pkg for TopPocket Bag fabrication

Waistband

Pocket Bag toTop edge

SideSeam



SideSea

m

Waist Facing




Under Pocket Pocket Bag to Top edge

B5-9e Quarter Top Pocket Bag w/ No Waistband - Shaped Self Facing; Open Pressed Side Seam







L-Shape* Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.

Outside of Garment

B5-11a L-Shape Pocket w/ Facing -No Topstitch

SideSeam

Inside Seam

Waist Seam

B5-11b L-Shape Pocket w/ Facing -Single Needle Topstitch

Single

Topstitch;See Spec Pkg -

Detail sketch

SideSeam

w/ or w/o

Bartack;

See Spec Pkg -

Detail sketch

Outside of Garment

Inside SeamWaist Seam

B5-11c L-Shape Pocket w/ Facing -Double Needle Topstitch

Dbl Needle TopstitchSee Spec Pkg -

Detail sketch

SideSeam

w/ or w/o

Bartack;

See Spec Pkg -Detail sketch

Outside of Garment

Seam or StitchedthroughWaist Seam

Pocket Bag Terms:

•

Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment.• Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.

SelfApplied

to PocketBag

SideSea

m

SideSeam

Facing

PocketingTop Pocket Bag

SideSeam

Pocketing

Under Pocket Bag

Pocket Bags - Inner View

Under Pocket Bag

Reinforcementstitch at PocketOpening

B5-11 L-Shape Pocket w/ Facing - Inside of Garment

Backstitch

(except w/ Dbl Ndl Topstitch)

Inside Seam

Pocket Bag - Inside of Garment






Q

Quarter Top Pocket w/ Self Pocket Bag

Topstitch through all Layers;


B5-10 Quarter Top Pocket - Self Pkt Bag; Set to Shell

Outside of Garment

Si

deSeam

Inside of Garment

Topstitch

through allLayers

Under

Pocket Bag

Full Bendbackw/ Topstitch

Waist Seam Waist Seam

Scoop Pocket • Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment.

• See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitching. • Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.B5-13 Scoop Pocket w/ Facing

w/ or w/o

Topstitch

SideSeam

Outside of Garment

Waist Seam

SideSeam

Inside of Garment

Self Applied

to Pocket Bag

Applied to

Pocketing

Top Pocket Bag

SideSeam

Facing

Inner Pocket View of Pocket Bag (before Bag is seamed)

Backstitch

B5-13 Scoop Pocket w/ Facing - Inner Construction

Waist Seam

Under Pocket Bag

Top Pocket Bag


QUARTER TOP POCKET BAG OPTIONS:




Q

Pocket Bag Terms & Dimensions:• Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment.


Sid

eSeam

Under Pocket

Waist Seam

4 3/4"

8 1/2"

Pocket Bag Length x Width - Seam to Seam

6 1/2"

B5-14a Regular Quarter Top Pocket Bag - w/ Waistband

SideSeam

6 1/2"

B5-14b Quarter Top Pocket Bag - NO Waistband


4 3/4"

Under Pocket

8 1/2" from

Waistline position

B5-14c Short Pocket Bag

SideSeam

Under Pocket


4 1/2"

5 1/2"

6 1/2"

Waist Seam


PATCH POCKET OPTIONS:* Note: See Spec Pkg for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail




Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail

B5-15a Patch Pocket-Bluff Setting; w/o Topstitch -Lined or Unlined

Raw edgew/ or w/o

Staystitch

Seamed

inside

B5-15b Patch Pocket-Bluff Setting; w/ Topstitch - Lined or Unlined

Raw edge

w/ or w/o

Staystitch

Seamed

inside

SingleBendback

Rawedge

w/ or w/oOveredge

Set Pocket w/ Topstitch

B5-16 Patch Pocket-Topstitched Setting

B5-17 Patch Pocket Lined to Top Edge

Lined to Top edge Set Pocket w/ Topstitch

Lining

PATCH POCKET BENDBACK FACING OPTIONS:

Outside View Inside View

1" Bendback Facing

Lining

B5-18a Patch Pocket w/Single Bendback Facing -Lined

Outside View

1" Bendback Facing

Inside View

Overedge &Topstitched

B5-18b Patch Pocket w/Single Bendback Facingw/ Overedge Finish & Topstitched - Unlined

1" Bendback Facing

Inside View

Clean Finish(bendback Facing

seam allowance)

& Topstitched

Outside View

B5-18c Patch Pocket w/Single Bendback Facingw/ Clean Finish & Topstitched - Unlined

B5-18d Patch Pocket w/Full Bendback Facing

- Unlined

Outside View

Clean Finish& Topstitched

Full Bendback Facing;See Spec pkgfor Topstitch detail.

Inside View


PATCH POCKET ATTACHED FACING OPTIONS:• Note: See Spec Pkg for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail




• Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.


Lining

Backstitch (if not Topstitched)

B5-19a Patch Pocket w/Attached Facing -Lined

See Spec Pkgfor FacingHeight


Overedge &Topstitched

B5-19b Patch Pocket w/Attached Facing;Overedge Finish & Topstitched - Unlined

Backstitch (if not Topstitched)See Spec Pkg

for FacingHeight

Inside View

Clean Finish& Topstitched

Outside View

Backstitch (if not Topstitched)

B5-19c Patch Pocket w/Attached Facing;Clean Finish & Topstitched - Unlined

See Spec Pkgfor FacingHeight

PATCH POCKET REINFORCEMENT OPTIONS:

Triangle Stitch

(See Spec Pkg forPocket Shape)

B5-20a Patch Pocket -Reinforced Corner

Rectangle Stitch

B5-20b Patch Pocket -

Reinforced Corner

(See Spec Pkg for

Pocket Shape)

Diagnal Stitch

B5-20c Patch Pocket -

Reinforced Corner


Horizontal Stitch

B5-20d Patch Pocket -

Reinforced Corner


Horizontal

Bartack

B5-20e Patch Pocket -Reinforced Corner

(See Spec Pkg for

Pocket Shape)

PATCH POCKET W/ CURVED OPENING:

Diagonal

Bartack

B5-20f Patch Pocket -Reinforced Corner


Vertical Bartack

B5-20g Patch Pocket -

Reinforced Corner


Waist Seam

B5-22a Patch Pocket w/ Curved Opening; Self Facing - Lined

Outside of Garment

Self FacingBackstitchif needed

Inside of Pocket (before set)

SideSeam

SideSea

m

Lining

SideSeam

SideSeam

B5-22b Patch Pocket w/ Curved Opening;

Self Facing - Unlined

Inside of Pocket (before set)

Waist Seam

Self Facing

Outside of Garment

Bendback

Finish


POCKET FLAP OPTIONS:




Welt Pocket w/ Flap – 1+1 Back Darts and 2+2 Back Darts

* Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.

w/ 1+1 Back Darts

Flap set in upper

Welt seam

B6-1a Welt Pocket w/ Flap -No Topstitch

Underflap:

Bias



Outside of Garment

Backstitch

Waist Seam

Outside of Garment


B6-1b Welt Pocket w/ Flap -w/ Topstitch

Flap set in upper

Welt seam

Underflap:Bias

See Spec Pkg forTopstitch detail

Waist Seam

w/ 2+2 Back Darts

Underflap:

Bias



Waist Seam

Outside of Garment

Flap set in upper

Welt seam

Backstitch

B6-1c Welt Pocket w/ Flap -No Topstitch

B6-1d Welt Pocket w/ Flap -

w/ Topstitch


Outside of Garment

Flap set in upperWelt seam


Waist Seam

Underflap:Bias

Besom Pocket w/ Flap – 1+1 Back Darts and 2+2 Back Darts

* Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.

w/ 1+1 Back Darts

Waist Seam

Outside of Garment

B6-2a Besom Pocket w/ Flap -No Topstitch

BackstitchUnder Flap:Bias

Flap set inBesom upperSeam * w / or w/o

Bartack

See spec pkg -Detail Sketch

B6-2b Besom Pocket w/ Flap -w/ Topstitch

See Spec Pkg for

Topstitch detail

* w / or w/o

Bartack See spec pkg -

Detail Sketch

Outside of Garment

Under Flap:Bias

Flap set inBesom upperSeam

Waist Seam

w/ 2+2 Back Darts

Waist Seam

Outside of Garment

B6-2c Besom Pocket w/ Flap -No Topstitch

BackstitchUnder Flap:Bias

Flap set inBesom upper

Seam * w / or w/o

Bartack


B6-2d Besom Pocket w/ Flap -w/ Topstitch


* w / or w/oBartack


Outside of Garment

Under Flap:Bias

Flap set inBesom upperSeam

Waist Seam




POCKET FLAP OPTIONS:




Patch Pocket w/ Flap* Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.

B6-3 Bluff Patch Pocket w/Flap -No Topstitch at Edge

Raw edge

enclosed

Under Flap:Bias

1/4" Topstitch w/ raw edge enclosed

& Stitch-tack at ends

1/4" Topstitch w/ raw edge enclosed & Stitch-tack at ends

* See Spec Pkg forTopstitch detail

B6-4a Patch Pocket w/ Flap - Topstitched

Stitch-tack at Flap corners

Under Flap:Bias

Raw Edge

Enclosed

B6-4b Patch Pocket w/ Flap - Topstitched

Bartack at Flap corners

Raw EdgeEnclosed

* See Spec Pkg for

Topstitch detail

1/4" Topstitch w/ raw edge enclosed

& Bartack at endsUnder Flap:

Bias

Under Flap – Bias Cut

Bias

Underflap:*Cut smaller than outer flap.

*Cut on bias.

B6-5 Under Flap -

Pattern & Cutting Direction


POCKETS W/ BUTTON CLOSURE - OPTIONS:




Welt & Besom Pocket w/ Button Closure• Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.

B7-1a Welt Pocket w/ Button

& Vertical Buttonhole

Outside of Garment

* Welt w/ or w/oEdgestitch / Bartack


B7-1b Welt Pocket w/ Button& Horizontal Buttonhole

Outside of Garment

* Welt w/ or w/o

Edgestitch / Bartack See Spec Pkg -

Detail sketch

B7-2a Besom Pocket w/ Button

& Horizontal Buttonhole

Outside of Garment

* Besom w/ or w/o

Topstitch / Bartack

See Spec Pkg -

Detail sketch

B7-2b Besom Pocket w/

Button & Loop Closure

Outside of Garment

* Besom w/ or w/o

Edgestitch / Bartack

* See Spec Pkg -

Detail sketch

Welt & Besom w/ Flap & Button Closure

B7-3a Besom Pocket w/ Vertical Wide Flap & Button Closure

Wide Flap w/VerticalButton Hole

* w/ or without Topstitching* See Spec Pkg Design Details

B7-3b Besom Pocket w/Narrow Flap & Button Closure

Narrow Flapw/ HorizontalButton Hole


B7-3c Welt Pocket w/ Flap & Button Closure

Wide Flap w/

VerticalButton Hole

* w/ or without Topstitching

* See Spec Pkg Design Details

Narrow Flap

w/ HorizontalButton Hole

B7-3d Welt Pocket w/Narrow Flap & Button Closure


Patch Pocket w/ Button Closure

B7-4a Patch Pocket w/VerticalButtonhole & Button Closure

See spec pkg for* Patch Pocket Type

* Topstitch Detail* Bartack

B7-4b Patch Pocket w/Horiztonal Buttonhole & Button Closure

See spec pkg for

* Patch Pocket Type * Topstitch Detail

* Bartack

See spec pkg for

* Patch Pocket Type * Topstitch Detail

* Bartack

B7-5a Patch Pocket w/Flap Vertical Buttonhole &

Button Closure

B7-5b Patch Pocket w/Flap HoriztonalButtonhole &

Button Closure

See spec pkg for* Patch Pocket Type

* Topstitch Detail

* Bartack




VENTS:




A13-6 Vent-Unlined; Lapped; Topstitched


VentE

dge

Seam

With or without Tack (see Spec Pkg.)

Topstitch

Full Dbl Bendback

Seam

*See spec pkg for Topstitching & Hem type

A13-7 Vent-Lined-Open; Blocked Hem; Topstitched


SeamTopstitch

Lining

Dbl Bendback w/Topstitch

Seam

Backstitch

VentEdge

Open Bottom

Blocked Hem

A13-8 Vent-Lined-Open; Blocked Hem; No Topstitch


CtrBackSeam

Lining

Dbl Bendback w/Topstitch

CtrBackSeam

Backstitch

VentEdge

Open Bottom

Blocked Hem

Top of Vent

VENT & SLIT “X” TACK:

NOTE: Sketch is for “X” Tack only. See Spec pkg. for Vent style details.

A14 Slit-"X" Tack

* No tack if fabricwill be damaged

from tack.

Top of Slit

for Shipping

Outside Garment

Seam

A13-11 Vent/ "X" Tack

for Shipping

Vent

Edge

"X" Tack for Shipping


BINDING & PIPING FINISHES:

A9 3 Piped Edge w/ or w/o Filler




Folded

A6-1 Full Clean Finish

w/Edgestitch

A9-3 Piped Edge w/ or w/o Filler

Outside of Garment

Inside ofGarment

Backstitch

Edge finished w/Facing OR Lining

Piping w/ or w/o Filler

Note:

No Backstitch ifedge is Topstitched

BUTTONHOLES:

A10-4a Bound Buttonhole - Clean Finish

Topside Underside(looks same as Topside)

Underside

(Straight Buttonhole)Topside

A10-4b Bound Buttonhole -Backed w/ Machine Buttonhole

A10-4c Bound Buttonhole - Edgestitched

Topside Underside(looks same as Topside)

A10-4d Bound Buttonhole - Leather

Topside Underside

A10-1 Keyhole Buttonhole w/Bartack at end

Bartack

w/ or w/o Gimp Filler(* See Spec pkg Trim)

A10-2 Keyhole Buttonhole

w/ Fishtail End

w/ or w/o Gimp(* See Spec pkg Trim)

A10-3 Regular/Straight

Buttonhole

A10-5a On-Seam Buttonhole - Horizontal

Seam

A10-5b On-Seam Buttonhole -Vertical

Seam


ZIPPER TERMS:Note: See Specification Pkg. for “Right” or “Left” Zipper Pull. Zipper illustrations are generic.




(A) Closed end -

Normal type

(C) 2 Pulls - 2 Ended

Closed

(B) 2 - Ended

Closed

(D) 2 Pulls -

2 Open Ends

(D) 1 Pull

Open End

Common Zipper Types

(A) Closed end -Invisible type

SealedEnd

Sealedat Top

Tape Ends

Stringer

Cord

Bead

Bottom Stop

Slider

Chain

Pull

Teeth

Top Stops

Retainer

Separable Pin

Retainer Pin

Opened Tape Closed

Basic Zipper Construction Terms

Tape

Width

Chain

Width

Length ofFastener

Zipper Dimension Terms


HOOK & EYE TYPES:




A11-1a Hook & Loop Eye

A11-1b Hook &

Straight Eye

A11-1c Hook & Loop

Hook & Loop Eye Setting at inside top of zipper Hook & Thread Loop Setting at inside top of zipper

A11-1a Setting Hook & Loop Eye

Set Zipper

w/Zipper Slide edge1/4" down from

finished top edge

at Inside Top of Zipper

A11-1c Setting Hook & Thread Loop

Set Zipper

w/Zipper Slide edge1/4" down from

finished top edge

at Inside Top of Zipper


LOOP & FROG CLOSURES:

A10 6 C h B L

A10-7a Button Loop -

A10-7b Button Loop -




A10-6a Crochet Button Loop -Kissing Setting

A10-6b Crochet Button Loop - Open Setting

A10-7a Button Loop - Kissing Setting

A10-7b Button Loop -Open Setting

A10-7c Button Loop -Closed Setting

Top Side

Under side of Loop

A10-8 Folder Button Loop

A10-9 Decorative / Frog Closure

OTHER CLOSURES:

A11-2a Hook & Bara. Machine Set

* Note: Reinforce w/

Self or Interlining

A11-2b Hook & Bar

b. Hand Set

A11-3 Hook & Loop Tape

Hook Tape Loop Tape




DECORATIVE STITCHES (cont.):

DST-7 Saddle Stitch* O d tit h

DST-8 Blanket Stitch




* Stitch Length and Spacingare equal size.

* See Spec Pkg for Stitch per Inch (SPI).

Saddle Stitch - Stitch through all layers.

* Overedge stitch.* See Spec Pkg for specific Stitches per Inch (SPI) and Stitch Width.

Outside Garment

Blanket Stitch

Inside Garment

Step 2 - Topside Step 2 - Underside

Seam at top of tuck

Double Needle w/ Narrow Zig-Zag at Underside * closes fold * creates tuck

* See Spec Pkgfor Tuck Height

Seam at top of tuck

Step 1- Topside Step 1 - Underside

DTS-9 Air Tucking

construction bottoms (lined and unlined)

Documents