I bent 8 inches of 3/4 inch aluminum bar stock into a CURVED V shape. (Stick a couple of inches in your vise and bend it around the front of the vise, you'll end up with a perfect shape.) One end of the V is about 2 inches with two holes to attach the mechanical switch so that it is 'inside' the curve of the V. The lever (in the permanent 'on' position) is pointing towards the front of the car. The longer arm of the V has two holes for mounting on the bulkhead.

Drill a hole in the switch lever and attach a spring. The other end of the spring attaches to a small aluminum tab bolted to the brake pedal (using the existing pedal bolt).

Converting from a hydraulic to a mechanical brake switch is pretty simple. With a $15 switch, a $1 spring and bits and pieces of scrap metal it took me a few hours.

The spring tension pulls the switch lever back to the 'off' position. As soon as you depress the pedal, the switches internal spring returns the lever forward to the 'on' position. The pedal has plenty of room and never gets close to the mechanism.

I covered (for protection) the contacts with a slightly bent, electrical conduit C clamp. The entire system is mostly hidden behind the rubber bulkhead mat.

NOTES: In my case the angle and vertical mounting position of the V and the position of the spring holes all align into a (lucky) relationship that illuminates the lights with a light press. I did not have to make a single adjustment. (I am pretty sure it took more brake action with the hydraulic switch.) Both spring holes offered little room for the spring hooks to attach, so there is little chance the spring can detach. If so, the system 'fails' in the on position. I though about an adjustable tension system but with no need, I kept simple. I bought my switch (BWD S190, Advanced Auto Parts) but the same (looking) switch is everywhere.

ScottPonte Vedra FL