Corsican Beaches

Almost everyone asks about beaches. Of course, it depends what you like: what kind of sand, pebbles or rocks, beach restaurants (many or few) or not, accessibility, popularity, waves or not, life guards or not, shelving quickly or gently sloping, availability of water sports... So I have been resistant in the past to make any comments. But now I have given in and so here's this list.

Don't forget, though, that Corsica has 1000 kms of coast, hence this listing is hardly a gazetteer. Bear in mind that in the summer, only 25% of recognised beaches have life guards. This may be a factor for your choice. The Sunday Times list of Europe's Top 20 beaches includes three in Corsica, which may give you an indication of what's in store for you.

Corsica's beaches come in all shapes and sizes, and since there is such a huge distance of coast accessible on foot, the walking is great too! A superb book has recently appeared – called Par les Chemins du Littoral Corse, by Alain Gautier and published by Albiana, a Corsican publisher. Though beautifully illustrated, this book is not very portable. However, the book gives 60 walks, detailled by their flora, fauna, access, architecture (Genoese towers for example) and itinerary with exellent maps. Some of the walks are for serious walkers, but you can just pick section; you'll also get a good idea of the beaches.

If you want naturist beaches, try naturisme.com. There is a UK naturist holiday specialist – Chalfont – they do holidays in Corsica. If you are interested in the work of the Conservatoire du Littoral in Corsica, then you can visit their website. They publish Balades entre terre et mer, sur les sites du Conservatoire du littoral and you can get a copy of this guide of their Corsican properties here.

Algajola (Balagne - NW) - Algajola is one of few seaside villages; it had an important past under the Genoese and has an ancient small citadel. The beach, or rather beaches, are mainly coarse sand, but at the far northerly end (actually in the commune of Aregno) is finer. It has water sports and some beach restaurants and snack bars, as well as a few hotels with direct beach access. The climatic conditions are such that it's popular with fun boarders (short boards with which stunts can be performed with a strong wind).

Argentella (between Calvi & Galeria - NW) - this may not be everyone's cup of tea! I like it because is has trillions of small washed granite pebbles of every conceivable colour. If you are into making jewellery

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or just stone collecting (light enough for the flight home), this remote beach will thrill you. The clear water shelves deeply, so you can get to swim quickly. It is easy of access (though parking on the roadside may entail you walking quite a way) and has a hotel and restaurant at the south end (where of course parking is easier) – see my Calinzana site for more details.

Arinella (Bastia - NE) - this is Bastia's main beach, only about a kilometre from the centre of the city. There is a water sports centre and recent improvements in sewage plants as well as daily cleaning of the beach make this urban resort a good place for locals and those who want a last swim before catching the ferry. There is a lot of space – you could walk for miles in the sand.

Arone (Piana - W) - this is a lovely beach, 15 or so kms from the village of Piana; there's lovely sand and it's reasonably quiet, though some development is taking place round about. The scenery is spectacular. There is a beach restaurant. I really like this one. Piana is a beautiful village, with a few good small restaurants, though the road from north (Calvi) is arduous and much of it perched high about the sea, and from the south is quite hard work too, but less 'cliff-perched'. This spot is famous for being the landing place used by the submarine Casabianca to land the first cargo of arms for the members of the 'Pearl Harbour' mission in December 1942.

Bodri (Balagne – NE) – just south of Ile Rousse; this sandy beach backed by shrubby land is in the country, but very accessible to local resorts. The northerly end is the one I prefer. It has coarsish sand (that is easy to get rid of after a sweltering day there. There used to be a nudist section, but that's all past and no one bothers if you are clothed or unclothed – both groups seem relaxed.

Next door to Bodri to the east is Giunchetu Bay; there's a similar paying car park run by the Commune of Corbara. Here's a report from Chris Quinsee (who nonetheless prefers Bodri): "The beach itself is lovely - quite long, thick sand, a basic cafe at the western end. It can get pretty busy but if you walk a couple of hundred yards up the sand the numbers seem to thin out quickly. On a breezy day the waves can be big, but on calm days I would say it is especially good for children as the water stays very shallow for a long way out from the beach."

Cala di Cupabia (Serra di Ferro near Propriano – SE) – this is a beautiful small and quite remote beach with good sand and crystalline water in a C-shape. Behind it is a very relaxed campsite, not really visible from the beach, and a beach café. You need a car to get there and the car park is small, so I imagine in full season, you could have a bit of a problem.

Calvi (Balagne - NE) - kilometres of sand right from the town: for those who like beach cafés & restaurants (there are many with sun loungers and waiter service) and water sports of all kinds. The beach suffers badly in winter storms and has been the subject of massive investment to restore the sand, to build breakwaters and to replant the dunes. The bathing is very safe, even for toddlers; there

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are life guards in summer. Quite a lot of the Pinède (pinewoods) behind the beach have been fenced off to allow regeneration. Train access.

Campomoro (Valinco - SW) - this long beach is one's Corsica's finest. It's fringed with restaurants and bars, though none actually on the beach. It is near Propriano and has many exclusive villas nearby. It has a magnificent Genoese Tower at its southern end and much fine coastal walking. There is a lot of boating from the fine sand in the crystal blue water, but this is one of the beaches being closely monitored for erosion.

Capo di Feno (Ajaccio - SW) - well, it's actually 14 kms west of the city on the southern end of the Gulf of Sagone. It is a bit exposed so has good (or bad, depending upon one's point of view) surf. There are three paillotes (temporary beach restaurants), so although it's out in the country, you can enjoy good informal eating.

Girolata (Gulf of Porto – NW) – on the edge of the Scandola nature reserve and only accessible by boat (from Porto or Calvi – day trips) or one and a half hours on foot from the Bocca à a Croce on the D81 (Calvi-Porto road), or from the Col di Palmarella (also on the D81) – easier on the way down than on the climb back up (!). It gets very crowded in high summer despite these constraints, but it's a dramtic place.

Folaca (Porto Vecchio – SE) – just SW of Palombaggia (see below), but in my opinion much nicer, the smaller beach has more interest and a lagoon behind it; there is a beach restaurant.

La Liscia (Gulf of Sagone - W) - the gulf is magnificent; it's a beach that is well supplied with bars and restaurants and nearby hotels. Most water sports are available and the good sand is well maintained. It is a very popular beach, but because of its countryside location it is very relaxed and beautiful.

Lozari (Balagne - NW) - this pebbly beach is at the mouth of the Reginu valley. It is one of the most relaxed (it's very decontracté, as the French say) places to go and there are some water sports as well as a couple of beach establishments.

Lumio (Balagne - NW) - an attractive beach with stunning views across the bay to Calvi's citadel. It is in easy walking distance of two ruined Genoese towers (Caldanu and Spanu). It is small and has a beach restaurant (fabulous at night), but it is expensive for what it is. There are many small creeks and great rock bathing nearby. Accessible by train.

Malfacu (Agriates - NE) - like Saleccia (see below) this is difficult of access except by boat; it's in the middle of 5 000 hectares that belong to the Conservatoire du Littoral. Access (four to five hours) by the coastal path or you can take the track from the Col de Vezzo on the St Florent-Ile Rousse road, but you'd need a 4x4 or good legs - this remote spot has 10 restored stone pagliaghji, in which you can stay for up to 4 (primitive) nights if you bring a sleeping bag and all your victuals (advice and bookings available from the Syndicat des

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Agriates - 04 95 37 09 86. You can hire 4x4 vehicles from the Garage St Flo (04 95 37 06 42) or Quads from the Shell Service Station (06 18 66 10 94) - both in St Florent. 4x4 Raid Balagne operates in the Agriates as well - email them (raid-balagne@club.internet.fr).

Mare e Sole (Ajaccio -SW) - this beach is on the south side of the Gulf of Ajaccio and about 10 minutes from the resort of Porticcio. It's one of the busiest beaches of the island, given it's proximity to the city. It's easy to get to and well serviced. It's got fine white sand and very clear water.

Moriani Plage (East Coast) – I'm not a fan of the East Coast, but many love it's wildness. Moriani Plage (actually part of the commune of San Nicolao) is a recent agglomeration round the cross roads on the main Bastia-Porto Vecchio road. However the beach is part of a 50 kilometre stretch of sand (mostly not too wide) and the 'village' has quite a number of restaurants strung along the beach. You can gain access to the beaches of the East Coast at many points off the N198; it may look pretty unpreposessing between the main road and the sea, but don't let that put you off, if you like really relaxed seaside days.

Ostriconi (northern Balagne - NW) - this is one of my favourites, especially since the new main road has been built meaning that access is from a dead end (getting down to the beach is a bit hazardous). However, the nearby camping site (a quarter of an hour's walk) has a good restaurant and there are two very good traditional ferme auberges only a few minutes by car – towards Ponte Leccia. The wild site has a meandering river and stunning vegetation (nature reserve). It's on the southern end of the Desert des Agriates. It has no life guards and can be dangerous in bad weather. It is big enough to have privacy and peace. Nobody is likely to object to nudie bathing.

Pain de Sucre (Balagne - NW) - this one, like many on the stretch between Calvi and Ile Rousse, is accessible by train; from the main road look for the signposted dirt track, just after the Mobis furniture shop). It is small, with good thick sand and some rocky bits. It has an attractive beach restaurant and can be a bit dangerous in bad weather. We saw a (harmless) baby shark there a couple of years ago!

Palombaggia (Porto Vecchio - SE) - it's about 9kms from the town (bus service) is fringed by pines and has red granite rocks behind, though the beach itself is sandy. There are three beach establishments and water sports. It has life guards (in season) and is cleaned regularly. Because it so attractive, it's very popular in season. Palombaggia is considered by the Sunday Times as one Europe's Top 20 beaches.

Piantaredda (Bonifacio – S) – Here's a small sandy beach, a visit to which you can combine with a bit of history, for right by it is the Roman ruins of Piantaredda. See also Sperone (below).

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Pietracorbara (Cap Corse - N) - One of the Cap's rare sandy beaches and its 800 metres are frequented by locals as much as tourists. There are no establishments actually on the beach (but there are nearby). It has a safe zone marked by buoys, but in any event it's known as one of the safest on the island. The beach is some way from the village - about half way up the east coast of the Cap.

Plage du Loto (Agriates - NW) - a hearty four hours walk from St Florent, or take the boat Popeye II from town. It makes five trips a day in season. The Plage du Loto is considered by the Sunday Times as one Europe's Top 20 beaches. If you are on the way to Malfacu (see above), it'd be a good place to stop. Beware - camping is permitted nowhere other than at designated sites.

Porto Pollo (Propriano - SW) - is a nice sandy beach with easy access, from the road (a dead end) and its holiday houses are strung along behind it; this does not make it unpleasant and it's well situated for the holiday town of Propriano and sites like the prehistoric standing stones of Filitosa.

Punta di Spanu (Balagne – NW) – very special, I think. Right at the northerly point of the Bay of Calvi, there is one small sandy beach in a rocky inlet (you can come over from Calvi by boat, if you have one) and a very excellent restaurant – Le Rocher – tel 04 95 60 68 74 (great in the day time for they have loungers and will serve you next to the beach and thrilling at night with the lights of the town over the bay).

Ricanto (Ajaccio - SW) - only 5 kms from the city centre, this is a family beach. It is cleaned daily, has guards, parking and toilets. There's sailing here. It has just been the subject of rehabilitation, planting and protection. Its very special ecosystem is preserved (not least for helix ceratina - the Corsican snail), while ensuring good access and pleasure for visitors.

Rocapina (between Sartène and Bonifacio - SW) - superbly dominated by the so-called Lion of Rocapina, a huge rock formation, this beach is in wild (though the beach is cleaned regularly) and protected country, largely free of any development. It has fine sand and crystalline water. It is easy of access and yet has plenty of space. In winter it is one of the most stunning bits of coastal scenery and even with holidaymakers, it loses none of its grandeur.

Rondinara (between Porto Vecchio and Bonifacio - SE) - is one of Corsica's most photographed beaches. It is an almost closed circle of sand and has many boats moored there in season. Its water is turquoise and is very safe for kids as it has a very gentle slope. There is a parking fee. It is also the base of the Nature Reserve of the Bouches de Bonifacio.

Santa Giulia (Porto Vecchio - SE) - is about 6 kms from town. It has a lagoon behind and from the beach there are lots of activities including jet ski and quad biking. It's a kilometre long and has bars and restaurants (and a hotel) and plenty of supervised parking.

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Saint-Cyprien (Porto Vecchio - SE) - is further from town - about 12 kms. It's guarded has all facilities both on shore and in the water. Fine sand and clear water.

Saleccia (Agriates - NW) - this magnificent place is a UNESCO protected site and is difficult to access by land, but all too easy by sea (especially from St Florent) and the yachts’ occupants often seem to leave their debris ashore, unfortunately. It is deserted enough to have been used as the scene of the Normandy landings in the film 'The Longest Day'. You can take a boat from St Florent to the Lodo beach, but you'll still have an hour's walk to get there. This beach has been eroded by 100 metres since 1948 - a preoccupying situation. Saleccia is considered by the Sunday Times as one Europe's Top 20 beaches.

Sperone (Bonifacio - S) - not my kind of place: it could be Sardinia or other racy tourist spots; it has a major golf course and the villas to go with it, but it's a fine beach with beach establishments and of course, it's beautiful; it's access is difficult and only on foot. See Piantaredda (above).

Tizzano (Sartène - SW) - you have to mean to go here, but it's worth it; a good sandy beach in a narrow bay; there are now beginning to be a few villas, but it's quite remote and you pass near by (for me) the most amazing Neolithic sites of Corsica the two rows of standing stones at Palaggiu

Vignale (Ghisonaccia - E) - the long east coast I find unremarkable, given all the other wonderful beaches in Corsica; however this one is clean and has water sports; there are several holiday camps where you can get refreshments.

Remember, there are so many more beaches than those I list here, so don't be surprised if you fall on some gems that I have not listed. So there you are. I would be very grateful (and perhaps later readers would be, too) to receive your comments or additional personal recommendations.

William KeyserCorsica IsulaAugust 2005.mailto:mac@corsica-isula.com

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