cosmetics chemistry by dr. tanuja nautiyal

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COSMETIC CHEMISTRY

Dr. Tanuja NautiyalSOS Organics

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Topics Covered.......

Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal


A general study of cosmetics, Classifications of cosmetics Preparation and uses of some hair care products: Hair dye, hair spray, Shampoo,

Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal 3

Women love wearing makeup, as they feel it can help them enhance their beauty and make them feel and look more attractive and gorgeous. While some cosmetics are useful for making the skin feel soft, healthy and flawless, others assist in adding colour to the skin, thereby giving the appearance of good health and youth.

So, whether you want to hide the little imperfections or conceal a blemish, cosmetics come in very handy at masking the small flaws and marks on any part of the body. But then the question arises - are cosmetics efficient enough to give you a good-looking skin forever?

Introduction


The History of Cosmetics 4000 BC: The Egyptians applied Mesdemet (made of Cu

and Pb ore ), bright green paste, to their faces, red clay to their lips & cheeks and henna to dye nails them.

1000 BC :In Greece they used chalk or white lead face powder to have a white look.

1500 BC : In China and Japan rice powder was used to paint faces pasty white .

100 AD :In Rome people put barley flour and butter on their pimples, and sheep’s fat and blood on their fingernails for polish.


During the 20th century, with industrialization, the use of cosmetics reached a new high as more and more people started put on makeup to enhance their visual appeal.

Now, it is hard to imagine anyone without blushes, eyeliners and lipsticks being bare necessities that women today need for even a “natural” look.

The History of Cosmetics


The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) which regulates cosmetics in the United States defined cosmetics as: ‘Intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting the body's structure or functions Cosmetics (care substances)are all about changing / improving the appearance or odour of the human body.

Cosmetics


Cosmetics are regarded as a means of enhancing one's complexion and beautifying the skin.

Skin creams and lotions can be used to deep-cleanse the skin, they remove the dirt and microorganisms from skin.

Moisturizers offer excellent protection against cold winds and act as a lubricating agent.

Benefits of Cosmetics


There are special sun-protection creams/lotions that can protect you from the harmful UV rays of the sun and minimize the risk of skin cancer.

Many cosmetics contain vitamins such as A, D, E and K. These vitamins are essential for healthy skin and hair.



Cosmetics are used not only for skin care, but also to treat some skin problems. Dark spots or pimples on the face can be hidden using cosmetic products like concealers. One can also cover dark circles and wrinkles using various anti-aging creams and eye makeup.

Not only your face, you can also decorate your nails using attractive nail colours.



Deodorants and Perfumes help in making us feel fresh all through the day.

Apart from skin care, there are also varieties of shampoos and conditioners available, which keep the hair clean, soft and healthy.

The wide range of hair colours available today also helps you to modify and highlight your hair, in the colour and shade of your choice.



Types of Cosmetics

Makeup can be classified into three categories: Everyday, Medical and Theatrical

The most common group includes everyday products worn to enhance natural appearance.

Some items also fall into the medical category and are used for things like covering scars or reducing the visibility of rashes.

The last group is theatrical, television and film makeup, which actors and actresses use so their features look better in bright or harsh stage lights.

These categories include items that improve the appearance of or highlights the face, eyes, lips or nails.


Types of Cosmetics

Creams/Emulsion

Hand moisturizerssunscreens

Solutionshampoos, eye liners,

Suspensionhand

washes,shampoos

Lotionsfacial

moisturizer,hair conditioner

Ointmentsdressing hair,

cleaning skin.

Gelsshaving

products, toothpastes

Sticks lipstick

underarm deodorant

Capsules eye shadow,

cheek shadow cakes


Solutions are the homogeneous mixtures of soluble ingredients, (shampoos, body wash, hand cleansers, mascaras, eye liners, colognes).

Creams/ Emulsions are prepared by combining three formula components, such as oil phase, aqueous phase and an emulsifier, (hand moisturizers, make up, hair conditioners, sunscreens).

Lotions are less greasy and lighter counterparts of creams, (facial moisturizers, leave-in hair conditioners and moisturizing cleansers).

Different Kinds Of Cosmetics


Suspensions are similar to creams, suspensions are clear solutions containing visible particles, such as gelatin beads or inorganic minerals, spread throughout, (sunscreens, hand washes and shampoos)

Ointments/ Pastes are anhydrous (contain no water), extremely thick ,sticky and greasy products used for dressing hair and cleaning skin.

Gels are thick, clear products characterized by a property known as “shear thinning”. That is, they are thick when new but get thin and flowable as you start applying force to use them, (hair products, body washes, shaving products and toothpastes).


Powders are an amalgamation of solid raw materials which are ground together to get a fine powder, (baby powder, eye powder, foot powder, talcum powder).

Sticks are solid delivery forms that are delivered by rubbing them against the skin, (lipstick or underarm deodorant).

Tablets & Capsules: The solid ingredients are blended well with one another and pressed to get the desired shape, (compact powder, eye shadow, cheek shadow cakes).


•The entire worldwide cosmetic industry, sales reach about $170 Billion dollars a year. It’s distributed pretty uniformly around the world with approximately $40 billion in the Americas, $60 billion in Europe, $60 billion in Australia & Asia, and another $10 billion in Africa. •The Western world spends a bit more per person but India and Asia are quickly catching up.

Worldwide Cosmetic Market


The size of Indian Cosmetics Industry globally is $ 274 billion, while that of the Indian cosmetic industry is $ 4.6 billion. The current size of the Indian Cosmetic Industry is approx US$ 600 million. Among these fastest growing segment is color cosmetics, accounting for around US$ 60 million of the market. Industry sources estimate a rapid growth rate of 20% per annum across different segments of the cosmetics industry reflecting with an increasing demand for all kinds of beauty and personal care product. Growth in the Indian Cosmetic Industry has come mainly from the low and medium-priced categories that account for 90 % of the cosmetics market in terms of volume.

Size of the Indian Cosmetic industry


20%

27%10%

20%

23%

5 Primary Cosmetic Segments

Hair Care: 20%Skin Care – 27%Fragrance – 10%Make-up – 20%Other – 23%


• Hair Care Market includes conditioners, styling products, hair color, and relaxers.

• Skin Care Market includes skin moisturizers, cleansers, facial products, anti-acne, and anti-aging products.

• Make-up Market includes anything from lipstick to nail polish, blush, eye-shadow, foundation.

• Fine Fragrance is the highest profit segment of the cosmetic industry but consumers are choosy. Only a few brands can last for a long time.

• The “other” category represents toothpaste, deodorants, sunscreens, depilatories, and other personal care products not yet mentioned.

5 Cosmetic Segments


Lakmé is the Indian brand of cosmetics. Revlon is an American cosmetic for skin care, fragrance, and

Personal Care Company. Oriflame Cosmetics is a cosmetics group, founded in Sweden The L'Oréal Group is the world's largest cosmetics and Beauty

Company. Maybelline is a makeup brand sold worldwide and owned by

L'Oréal. Avon Products, Inc. is a US cosmetics, perfume and toy seller

with markets in over 140 countries across the world. ColorBar cosmetics are one of the leading brands of color

cosmetics in India.

Top leading Cosmetic Companies


‘Hair care' is care of hair on the human head, which may be coloured, trimmed, shaved, plucked, or other treatments such as waxing and threading. These services are offered in salons, barbershops, and day spas, and products are available commercially for home use. Laser hair removal and electrolysis are also available, though these are provided (in the US) by licensed professionals in medical offices or speciality spas.

Hair care Cosmetics


Hair is much more complicated than it appears. It helps transmit sensory information and creates gender identity. Hair is important to the appearance of men and women. There is hair on all the major visible surfaces of the body. It is also the only body structure that is completely renewable without scarring.

The human Hair


Hair grows from hair follicles located in the dermis.While hair is growing beneath the epidermis, it's outer covering is soft. Once it goes past the epidermis, the outside layer hardens into keratin. Inside the follicle, the hair is growing and is "connected" to blood vessels and nerves.

The human Hair


Three main regions: root, shaft, and tip Root: The part that was growing in the follicle, Follicle, Hair

papilla: it contains capillaries, or tiny blood vessels, that feed the cells. Hair bulb: The living part of the hair is bottom part of the papilla. The follicle is surrounded by sheaths These sheaths protect and mould the growing hair shaft. The sebaceous gland is important because it produces sebum which is a natural conditioner.

Shaft: It is made up of dead, hard protein called keratin in three layers; medulla, cortex and cuticle.

Tip: The end of the hair farthest away from the root. The hair is narrowest at the tip.

Parts of the Hair


Hair products are used to clean hair and the scalp of the skin to maintain healthy hair and also used for hair styling these are known as hair product. Hair care is an overall term for parts of hygiene and cosmetology involving the hair on the human head. Hair product will differ according to one's hair type and according to various processes that can be applied to hair. Scalp skin, just like any other skin on the body, must be kept healthy to ensure a healthy body and healthy hair production. If the scalp is not cleaned regularly, by the removal of dead skin cells, toxins released through the skin or external hazards (such as bacteria, viruses, and chemicals) may create a breeding ground for infection.

Hair Care Products


Hair care Products

Hair Dye Hair Shampoo Hair Spray Hair conditioners Hair setting lotions Hair tonics


Hair colouring is the practice of changing the colour of hair. The main reasons for this practice are cosmetic (to cover white hairs, to change to a colour regarded as more fashionable or desirable, or to restore the original hair colour after it has been discoloured by hairdressing processes or sun bleaching).

Hair Dye


Hair dye is one of the oldest known beauty preparations, and was used by ancient cultures in many parts of the world.

Hair Dye


Earlier the hair dyes were made from plants, metallic compounds, or a mixture of both.

Henna was known in many parts of the world; it produces a reddish dye. Indigo, is combined with henna to make light brown to black shades of hair dye.

Hair Dye


An extract of the flowers of the chamomile plant was long used to lighten hair, and this is still used in many modern hair preparations. The bark, leaves, or nutshells of many trees were used for hair dyes. Wood from the brazilwood tree, walnut leaves or nut husks. Some of these plant-derived dyes were mixed with metals such as copper and iron, to produce more lasting or richer shades.

Hair Dye


Hair colour was traditionally applied to colour the hair. The modern trend is to use several colors to produce streaks,

Highlighting (sections of hair are treated with lighteners), Lowlighting, (sections of hair are treated with darker hair color),

ombre, (where hair is dark on the crown and bit by bit becomes lighter toward the ends)

splashlights (horizontal band of bleached hair stretches from ear to ear).

Application techniques

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Straight_hair_with_highlights.jpg


Ingredients of Hair dye

Dye

Alkalizers

Modifiers

Ammonia

Antioxidant

Additives

Hair Dye Ingredients


Dyes: The dye chemicals are usually amino compounds. Metal oxides, such as titanium dioxide and iron oxide, are often used as pigments.

Modifiers: They stabilize the dye pigments or otherwise act to modify the shade. One commonly used - resorcinol.

Alkalizers: Alkalizers are added to change the pH of the dye formula, because the dyes work best in a highly alkaline composition. (Ammonium hydroxide is a common alkalizer).

Ingredients of Hair dyes


Antioxidants: Antioxidants protect the dye from oxidizing with air. Most commonly used is sodium sulfite.

Ammonia: used to open hair shaft for dye penetration.

Agents which make the dye more or less permanent. Soaps, wetting agents, fragrance, softening agents.

Ingredients of Hair dyes


Types of Hair Colouring

The four most common classifications are:

Permanent Hair Colour

Demi- permanent Hair Colour

Semi- permanent Hair Colour

Temporary Hair Colour


Permanent hair colour:The main ingredients of the formulations are1. Base: (Solution, emulsion , Gel, Powder, Shampoo), 2. Dye: Oxidation Base (Oxidizing agents are hydrogen

peroxide)3. Alkali: the alkaline environment is mostly provided by

ammonia. (Ammonia opens the hair shaft pores so that the dye can actually bond with the hair and speeds up the reaction of the dye with the hair. Now people can dye their hair without bleaching it).

4. Antioxidants: Ammonium Thioglycolate.



Demi-permanent hair colour is hair colour that contains an alkaline agent other than ammonia (ethanolamine, sodium carbonate) and while always employed with a developer, the concentration of hydrogen peroxide in that developer may be lower than a permanent hair colour.



Semi-permanent hair colour: Mainly based on basic dye stuff of nitro amino dyes. These are usually red or yellow. A mixture anionic and / or non ionic surfactant with a cation active dye is used to get semi-transparent colouring. Formation of anion cation colour complex. These colorants give stronger coloration to the hair, and can withstand up to 7 to 8 shampooing.



Temporary hair colour: These dyes or colorants impart colour to the hair for a short time. Absorption of the dye stuff takes place only on hair cuticle not penetrate in to the cortex and medulla. These are easily removed with a single shampooing. pH of the solution is adjusted at about 5.



Dye chemicals are checked and certified

Dye chemicals are dumped in a tank, water is piped in and the mix is agitated for 20 minutes at 700C

Pre-mix is added to larger tank containing additional ingredients (solvents, surfactants, alkalizers)

Hair Dye

Preparation of Hair dye


Henna is an orange dye commonly used as a deposit-only hair colour whose active component, lawsone, binds to keratin. It is therefore considered semi-permanent to permanent, depending on a person's hair type. Indigo is natural dye from a plant (Indigofera tinctoria, suffructicosa, or arrecta) that can be added to henna or layered on top of it to create brown to black colours in the hair. On the colour wheel, henna is orange, and indigo is blue, so as complementaries, the two colours work together to create brown tones. Like henna, indigo may fade after one application, but it becomes permanent on the hair with repeated use.

Plant-based dyes


A liquid or cream preparation of soap for washing HAIR to remove the dirt, used for the removal of oils, dirt, skin particles, dandruff, environmental pollutants and other contaminant particles that gradually build up in hair.

In the early 1930s, the first synthetic detergent shampoo was introduced. The 1960s brought the detergent technology we use today.

HAIR SHAMPOO


Over the years, many improvements have been made to shampoo formulations. In the personal care industry, nearly all of the ingredients that can be used are classified by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association (CTFA) in the governmentally approved collection known as the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI).

HAIR SHAMPOO


Ingredients of Hair-

Shampoo

Foam boosters

Thickeners

Water

Conditioning Agents

Detergents

AdditivesPreservative

Hair Shampoo Ingredients


Ingredients of shampoo

Water: Main ingredient of shampoo (70-80%). Detergents: Surfactant helps to clean the hair and strips

it of oil which is similar to what soap does. These are extracted from coconut oil, palm kernel oil, and soy bean oil. Primary detergents used in shampoos are ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate.


Ingredients of shampoo

Foam Boosters: primary detergents, they are also derived from fatty acids and have both water soluble and oil soluble characteristics. Typical materials include cocamide DEA.

Thickeners : NaCl


Ingredients of shampoo• Conditioning Agents: guar hydroxypropyltrimonium

chloride which is a polymer, dimethicone which is a silicone, and quatemium 80, a quatemary agent.

• Preservatives: Two of the most common preservatives used in shampoos are DMDM hydantoin and methylparaben.

• Special additives: Natural materials such as botanical extracts, natural oils, proteins, and vitamins all impart special qualities and help sell shampoos. Additives such as zinc pyrithione are included to address the problem of dandruff.


Hydrophilic head

Hydrophobic tail

Water

Air

Surfactant molecule has two parts—Hydrophilic head & Hydrophobic tail.

Surfactant molecules in aqueous solution concentrate at the air–water interface with the hydrophobic part oriented toward the air side.

Surfactant behaviour in solution



When the concentration of surfactant increases, the interface becomes saturated with surfactant molecules that penetrate into the solution.

Water

Air


To minimize their interaction with water, the hydrophobic parts of the surfactants interact together and form micelles in solution. When Shampooing, Anionic surfactants containing hydrophobic tailgets adsorbed to grease or dirt of hair. Thus, these dirt are removed by further rinsing.


Water

Air

micelle


Based on Appearance: Powder Shampoos, Liquid Shampoos or Lotion/Gel Shampoos or Solid Cream/Cream Shampoos Oil Shampoos , anti dandruff, medicated shampoo.

Based on Use or Function: Conditioning Shampoo, Antidandruff, Therapeutic, Baby shampoo.

Based on Origin: Herbal, Synthetic

Classification of Hair Shampoos


Raw materials (Deionized water, Conditioning agents, Surfactants, other additives) are poured into large batch tank and thoroughly mixed. The mixture may be heated or cooled to facilitate blending

A sample from the batch is sent to the quality Control testing lab.

After the batch is approved, the shampoos send to the filler, which fills the measured amount in empty bottles.

Hair Shampoo

Preparation of Hair Shampoo


DANDRUFF SHAMPOO (SELENIUM SULFIDE)

This medication is used to treat dandruff and a certain scalp infection (seborrheic dermatitis). It reduces itching, flaking, irritation, and redness of the scalp. Selenium sulfide is also used for a condition that causes discoloration of the skin (tinea versicolor). This medication belongs to a class of medications called anti-infectives. It works by slowing the growth of the yeast that causes the infection.


Hair Spray is a common cosmetic product that is sprayed onto hair to keep it stiff or in a certain style.

Hair Spray


Weaker than hair gel, hair wax, or glue, it is sprayed to hold styles for a long period. Using a pump or aerosol spray nozzle, it sprays evenly over the hair. May leave hair feeling "crunchy" unless brushed out. Hairspray is a solution of polymers in a very volatile solvent. Spraying deposits a stiff layer of the polymer on your hair after the solvent evaporates.

Hair Spray


Ingredients (Hair Spray)

Propellants

HoldingAgents

Solvents

AdditivesPackaging

Hair spray Ingredients


Holding agents: Hairsprays work by coating the hair with polymers, which are long chain chemical compounds.

Propellants: as the name implies, are responsible for propelling the hairspray out of the can.

Additives: Hairsprays contain a number of chemical additives in addition to polymers and solvents



Solvents: make up the largest portion by weight of an aerosol hairspray

Packaging: Aerosol hairsprays have traditionally been packaged in containers made from tin plated steel or aluminum.



The manufacture of aerosol hairspray requires highly automated equipment.

Batching: • The solvent is charged into the tank first and then

followed by the Polymers, Additives, Plasticizers, neutralizing and anti- corrosive agents in large batch tanks composed of stainless steel. The solvent makes up the largest proportion of the formula. The tanks are equipped with a large turbine mixer with blades that are several feet in diameter for proper mixing.

Preparation of hair spray


Filling:• The packaging components are staged on the filling machinery. • A piston mechanism injects a precise amount of liquid into the

can.• The gaseous propellant is shot into the cans and the valve cup

is immediately pressed.• Cans are checked for bad valve seal or a leaky can and

removed.• A cap is placed over the valve at the end of the filling line; this

prevents the aerosol from being accidentally activated during shipping. Finally packed into boxes.

Preparation of hair spray


The by-products of aerosol hairspray are the environmentally unfriendly VOCs emitted into the atmosphere, deplete the ozone layer, these chemical by-products are also used in inhalant abuse.

Harmful effects of Hair spray


Cosmetics today contain a wide range of harmful chemicals which, if used in excess, slowly damage our skin and body.

The average woman exposes her skin to over 100 different chemicals everyday in the form of make-up and beautification products. Dangerous chemicals like sodium sulphates, phthalates, triclosan and various reactive acids present in most popular cosmetic products today are absorbed by the skin into the bloodstream and lead to numerous persistent side effects, have serious effects on the user’s general health.

Side effects of Cosmetics


Increases the chance of getting cancer. toxic ingredients that can cause multiple kinds of cancers.

Breathing Disorders. salicylates and lead-containing lipsticks can lead to breathing difficulties that are similar to asthmatic attacks.

Damage To our Reproductive Systems. Butyl paraben in particular was linked to DNA damage in men’s sperm, it can lead to a terribly adverse impact on reproduction processes and reproductive hormones. It could even lead to infertility.



Disruption of Thyroid Systems. Use of cosmetics over a long period of time, can affect adversely your endocrine system, particularly the thyroid gland.

Allergic Reactions. It can produce allergic reactions in the skin, eyes and hair, especially if used in excessive amounts, (ethyl-paraben, butyl-paraben, isopropyl-paraben, Salicylates. Sodium lauryl sulphate).



Skin Discoloration. A number of cosmetics, like creams, skin toners, sunscreens and blushers can have bleaching and/or darkening effects on the skin.

Potential Eye Infections. Use of excessive make-up on and around the eyes can lead to redness, watery eyes.

Depression. Numerous of studies link cosmetic use with depression and mood swings. Triclosan, parabens lead to hormonal imbalances.



Go natural more often. Switch to natural remedies like preparing pastes from fruits, vegetables, medicinal herbs, eating healthy and drinking plenty of water.

Buy cosmetics (natural and organic) free from the harmful chemicals.

In all your products, beware and look for the following chemicals: parabens, sodium sulphates, phthalates, sodium benzoate, triclosan, methylisothiazolinone, acrylates, salicylates, butlene glycol, zirconium, tartrazine, nickel sulphate, potassium bromate, colouring dyes aluminum, nitrosamines, octinoxate, propylene glycol, oxybenzone, etc.

Alternative of synthetic Cosmetics


THANK YOU


cosmetics chemistry by dr. tanuja nautiyal

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