COSTUME CONSTRUCTION

COSTUME SHOP

• Cutter/Draper- is responsible for actually translating the designer’s sketches into reality

• First hand-to supervise the construction of the costumes

• Stitchers-operate the sewing machines and do the hand sewing that pieces the costumes together

• Dye/painters-dye and paint the fabric

• Milliner-makes hats and accessories

• Wigmaster-makes, styles, arranges the wigs

• Costume craftsperson-makes and creates the shoes

• Wardrobe supervisor-responsible for all costumes and accessories

CREATING A COSTUME

• There are three different ways a costume is created for a production

• Rental: the theatre rents costumes from a costume shop

• Reuse: costume shops use materials and stock to create a new piece

• Build: construct a costume from scratch

COSTUME NEEDS

• Costumes used in theatre or dance performances often need to serve multiple purposes

• At times an actor may need to change costume quickly or on stage

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hcP1cV3nBZI

• If a costume is being used in a musical or dance number, the costume cannot hinder the actor

• The costume must be durable, shows on Broadway can run up to 10 times in a week

• The costume must be safe for the actor

THE PRODUCTION BUDGET FOR THE

BROADWAY MUSICAL WICKED WAS $42

MILLIONThe bubble dress for Glinda in the Broadway production of Wicked is

worth approximately $35,000. The costume was built from scratch and

includes thousands of beads and sequins that were hand stitched.

The main dress for the Wicked Witch is worth approximately $20,00.

BEHIND THE SCENES

• Behind the scenes of Wicked

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dCXEgzBkfsA

STITCH 101

• Straight Stitch

• Basic stitch used for hems, sewing two pieces of material together, and gathering fabric

• Whip Stitch

• Used for decorative purposes, can be invisible, and can close a hem

• Catchstitch

• Line of x’s, is a stronger stitch, flexible and strong

• Fell Stitch

• Attaches a raw or folded edge

• Slip Stitch

• Used for joining two fabrics together

• Basting Stitch

• Wide running stitches meant to be temporary

COSTUMES:THEATRE V. FILM

• Phantom of the Opera (2004)

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RplYRP0wX1E&list=PL171D74BDEB7DC93A

• Phantom of the Opera 25th Anniversary performance

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JlUmAt7WISA&list=PLA0F91BDB3A1CF2EC

STICHES

• Straight stitch

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=06T0C3RWfxY

• Whip stitch

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v9kGyZDWZcA

• Fell stitch

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYf2xm1KDG4

• Buttons

COSTUME MEASUREMENTS

• A CHEST/BUST (M/F) — circumference taken around greatest fullness

• B WAIST (M/F) — circumference taken around natural waistline

• C HIP (F) — circumference taken around greatest fullness

• D OUTSEAM (M/F) — taken from natural waistline to just below ankle bone

• E INSEAM (M) — taken from crotch to just below ankle bone

• F NECK SIZE (M/F) — neck size taken around base of neck

COSTUME MEASUREMENTS

• G SLEEVE LENGTH(M/F) — sleeve length taken from prominent neck vertebrae across shoulder to wrist

• H HAT (M/F) — circumference taken around head above ears

• I SHOULDER TO SHOULDER (M/F) — taken across back from shoulder bone to shoulder bone

• J NAPE TO WAIST (M/F) — taken from base of neck to natural waist

• K NAPE TO FLOOR (M/F) — taken from base of neck to floor