course diary anu classics turkey january 2011

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A region in Antiquity: Gallipoli and Western Turkey

ANU Ancient History course: ANCH 2020

January 2011

Paul Lindwall

COURSE DIARY

ANCH 2020: Paul Lindwall

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Introduction

The three week tour of western Turkey was a thoroughly enjoyable, if at times exhausting, trip where we encountered so many interesting ancient sites as well as enjoying the Turkish culture, food and life. Organised by the ANU, it was a great success, with very few disappointments. I have put a map of the journey and the various sites we visited here. A wider selection of my photos can be found here.

This diary documents the major events of the tour, and some observations. There are a number of themes which emerge from the tour (although this is not exhaustive):

Religion has an interesting role — both destroying and preserving ancient sites and ancient artefacts. For example, the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul has variously been a Christian basilica, Islamic mosque and secular museum. The mosaics of the Hagia Sophia were covered over when it was converted to a mosque; some of these have been uncovered now it is a museum. At other times, statues have been destroyed because they represented the pagan past. There appears no logical consistency as to whether destruction or preservation occurred: perhaps this was at the whim of the relevant people, or perhaps some sites were protected because of their unusual nature. This evolution is evident through time, with some Greek cities (eg: Ephesus) being “Romanised” while others (such as Priene) remained essentially classical Greek.

The reuse of materials is also evident, it being economical to reuse materials rather than quarrying new material. So, for example, the castle in Bodrum includes material from the Mausoleum of Halikarnassos. From the modern eye this may seem unfortunate, yet a people with limited resources need to build and gather material as efficiently as their technology allows. Even the modern steps in the building around the apartments in Ephesus reused ancient marble!

Particularly evident is that cities rise, stagnate, decline and die. Many of the cities we examined were once prosperous communities with thriving local economies trading extensively with others. Yet, most subsequently declined. Only a few remain as modern cities, such as Bodrum and Izmir. Yet we can observe Troy (having settlements for 3000 years), Priene, Ephesus, Miletus, Labranda, Lagina, Hierapolis, Alexandria Troas, etc, which died long ago. Often the reason was the silting up of a river, climate change affecting the coastline and thus preventing trade1.Other times it may be war and famine, or earthquakes. Whatever the reason, eventually many of the cities were vacated as residents moved to more suitable locations. This is relevant to the modern world, with many people assuming that our cities will continue to grow.

1 In the ancient world, water transport was vital and considerably less expensive than land transport.

http://maps.google.com.au/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=200582691082673034905.00049b81ee57a8228753e&t=h&z=7

https://picasaweb.google.com/pauljlindwall/PaulSPhotosInTurkey?feat=directlink


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The restoration of ancient sites, structures and artefacts varies significantly in quality. Some restorations have been destructive. Others have been misleading. In some cases, restoration should not have proceeded; at other times it has been vital to the preservation of the ancient site or artefact. While modern society often looks back at past efforts with disdain, we cannot afford to be too proud, as future generations may consider 21st century restoration efforts to be ‘amateurish’.

There has been a clear continuity of some ancient customs and skills in modern Turkey. These include textile weaving (carpets and silk products) and camel wrestling. Even boys playing with wheels — depicted in the mosaics below on 9 January — remains a game in modern Turkey. Until recent years, most people did not travel far from their birthplace: this allowed the handing down through the generations of practices and names. Such practices may be unconscious, and the modern Turk might not even realise that a custom can be traced back thousands of years. Yet for whatever reason, they persist while other practices have died out.

The diameter of columns varies, right up to the massive diameter of those at Didyma. Their weight would make it difficult to push down; yet in most sites all the columns have fallen down (they have been subsequently re-erected by archaeologists). On first sight, columns would seem a remarkably stable structure, yet clearly they could not resist the earthquakes over thousands of years. The skills, strength and technology required to erect large columns must have been impressive. The column drums at Didyma, for example, would be of a circumference of up to 12 metres and perhaps 1.5 metres tall, then stacked on top of each other for the entire length of the column. These were generally solid marble.

o Solid marble has a density of 2563 kg per cubic metre. Assuming the columns of Didyma have a circumference of 12 metres, their radius is 1.9 metres. Therefore the volume of a Didyma column drum of r=1.9metres and height 1.5 metres is 17 cubic metres and therefore its weight is 43 tonnes. Just for one column drum 1.5 metres high!

The availability of material for construction (stone such as marble and granite, wood etc) would be crucial for the scale and ease of construction. Some sites, such as Aphrodisias benefited from a nearby marble quarry. Others would have sourced material from earlier sites (re-use as above). It is likely that the availability of material was a crucial determinant of site location. Then there was the logistics of bringing the material and day-to-day supplies to the site. Many of the sites (especially Pergamon, Assos and Priene) were very high and the supply of water would be problematic. In the case of Pergamon, it appears that an inverted siphon was used to carry water via an aqueduct to the upper citadel. Of course a benefit of being high is for protection against invasion, siege and marauders.

http://www.simetric.co.uk/si_materials.htm


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The availability of skilled and unskilled labour would have also been crucial in the growth of the city. Building large monuments such as important temples was a difficult engineering exercise using ancient techniques. Some of the jobs could be completed by relatively unskilled labour, but many jobs would require highly skilled (and expensive) labour such as sculpting and carving marble and designing buildings. With the frequent need to engage in combat, and to obtain food, getting the labour for major projects would be challenging. Private munificence would be an important aspect of such projects.

The scale of the Greek and Roman civilisations in western Turkey was immense. We have only scratched the surface, with numerous sites not yet excavated or only partially excavated. Archaeology is by nature a slow and methodical profession. The anecdote at Alexander Troas of requiring 1500 years to complete the excavation is telling. But related to this is the importance of protecting ancient sites from destruction; sometimes leaving a site unexcavated will allow future generations, with perhaps better tools and a better understanding, to build upon the knowledge gathered to date. Certainly I go away with a new appreciation of ancient civilisations and their reach and influence upon the modern world.

7 January 2011

After five nights in Rome, I felt refreshed and ready for the arduous three weeks promised by Peter Londey — at least jet lag wouldn’t be a problem. Joanne and I flew from Rome to Istanbul, arriving around 2:30 pm. After passing through the Turkish immigration line, we hired a taxi to take us to Hotel Arcadia. The driver was only slightly slower than his Roman colleague, reaching around 145 km/h. Yet we needed to stop three times for directions to the hotel; on one occasion he left us in the taxi with the engine running.

Our group met for the first time at 5:30 pm, with most of the students (having just arrived) jet lagged. The hotel (the Arcadia) was very pleasant with the welcome dinner on the top floor including a spectacular view of both the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. After dinner we went out with a few other students for a Turkish coffee and beer. While Turkish coffee is inferior to an espresso, being made boiled on a pot and served with sugar, it is still quite drinkable. Efes is the beer of choice in Turkey and compares favourably to Australian beer.

8 January 2011

My first full day in Turkey, we met in the lobby and walked to the Hippodrome of Istanbul. The Hippodrome was at the centre of Constantinople, surrounded by the Imperial Palace and Hagia Sophia basilica (see map below). According to our excellent tour guide, Oguz Atici, the Hippodrome was 450 by 130 metres, rounded at the ends for the chariot races.


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In keeping with his intention of forming a ‘new Rome’, Constantine ordered that an obelisk be brought from Egypt, which was originally erected by Thutmose III in commemoration of his crossing the Euphrates in 1471 BC. It was finally erected in Constantinople under Theodosius I (AD 345 – 395) with the reliefs on the base below the obelisk portraying Theodosius and his family. I thought the reliefs were relatively primitive compared to more classical figuring we saw in friezes elsewhere in the tour. Perhaps this was due to a decline in artistic skill, lack of funds, or a change in taste2.

Underneath the obelisk

2 Incidentally, it struck me that Constantine’s intention of a ‘new Rome’ was a failure: there are 18

obelisks in Rome itself, only one in Constantinople. It is a poor imitation of Rome!


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Near the obelisk is the Serpentine column, brought to Constantinople from Delphi. Apparently the bronze column was cast from booty collected from the battles of Salamis and Plataea. The column had snakes projecting from its top — we saw one of these in the archaeological museum3.

Obelisk in Hippodrome

3 Peter was skeptical.


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While the Egyptian obelisk is in excellent condition, the nearby masonry obelisk (known as the ‘Walled Obelisk”) was in poor condition — it was erected during the time of Constantine VII (Porphyrogenitus) in the 10th century, but its gilded bronze plates were removed by Crusaders in 1204.

The final notable monument, a little away from the Hippodrome, is the porphyry Column of Constantine (the burnt column) is on Constantine’s forum was up to 50 metres high, and apparently included relics from the Trojan war. It originally crowned by a statue of Apollo brought from Ilion to represent Constantine. In 1105 the statue was destroyed and replaced with a cross and was considered the symbol of the city. In 1453 when Constantinople fell to Mehmet II, the inhabitants of Constantinople gathered around the column awaiting deliverance.

We then visited the so-called ‘Blue Mosque’, or Sultan Ahmet Camii Mosque. This was built during the time of Ahmet I between 1609 and 1619. Its dome has a diameter of 23.5 metres, and is 43 metres high. It was built as an ‘imperial’ mosque and is essentially where the Imperial Palace of the Byzantine emperors would have stood. It has six minarets, causing something of a storm at the time when the Kaaba in Mecca also had six minarets — Ahmet ordered a seventh to be built at Kaaba.

We then visited the Hagia Sophia (Sancta Sophia) which has an interesting history. It is the third basilica, in stone replacing the earlier wooden buildings. The first basilica was built by Constantius II between 350 and 360. Following a riot in June 404, it was destroyed by fire. Theodosius II rededicated the second basilica in 415. But it too was destroyed in the Nika Rebellion of January 532, when upwards of 30,000 (almost 1/10 of the population) was killed following the brutal suppression of the revolt (ruins of the second basilica are clearly visible around the Hagia Sophia).

Justinian commissioned the rebuilding of the basilica in February 532, with the architects Anthemiois of Tralles and Isodoros of Miletos. It was built in five years, with Justinian dedicating the basilica in December 537. It is claimed he said ‘Solomon, I have overcome you!’.

The dome is 49 metres above the floor, with a diameter of 31 metres (compared with the Pantheon in Rome which is 44 metres high and has a diameter of 44 metres).

The dome is impressive, seeming to hang unsupported — it is in fact a rebuilt dome following the collapse of 557 following a series of earthquakes. The present dome was built in 562.

With the sack of Constantinople in 1204 (with Venetian crusaders), a number of valuable objects were plundered, including a heavy altar. Doge Enrico Dandolo, 90 years old and blind, led the fourth crusade and is buried in the Hagia Sophia (or at least was buried; it is uncertain whether his remains were removed after 1453).

http://www.sanalturistanbul.com/blue-mosque-360-virtual-tours-sultan-ahmet-mosque

http://www.hagiasophia.com/


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Grave of Doge Dandolo, Hagia Sophia

Following the events of 1453, the Hagia Sophia was converted to a mosque. Four minarets were built. In 1935, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk secularised the Hagia Sophia, converting it into a museum.

The building now comprises a mix of Christian and Islamic features. The latter include four very large round wooden structures with Arabic inscriptions, and floral and geometric shapes. The former includes some Byzantine mosaics. Fortunately when the building became a mosque, the mosaics — which would have covered the interior — were painted over rather than removed and destroyed.

While the mix of styles is interesting, I am disappointed that it hasn’t been fully restored to the original mosaics: the gold and vibrant colours would have made the interior striking.

Hagia Sophia


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Interior of Hagia Sophia

One of my themes is the role of religion, which has acted both to preserve and destroy. So, for example, the Pantheon in Rome is preserved as a Christian church, as is the colosseum, whereas numerous monuments, sculptures and other works of art have suffered destruction. Sometimes it seems unclear as to the reason something is adopted by a religion but at other times destroyed. In the case of the Hagia Sophia, it has been protected (yet changed) through its periods as Christian, Islamic and now secular status.

We enjoyed lunch at the Pudding Shop. Apparently it was popular in the 1960s as a meeting place for hippies! Messages to fellow travellers were posted on a board.

Pudding Shop Restaurant

The Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Sarnici) near the Hagia Sophia was very interesting — a forest of columns (336 in all) with differing capitals showing that they were gathered together from earlier sites. It was one of several cisterns established to provide a secure water supply to Constantinople (Byzantium apparently had no fresh water, with the first efforts to bring water via an aqueduct dating to Hadrian. The Valens Aqueduct was completed in the late 4th century under the Eastern Roman Emperor Valens). Two large heads of Medusa were notable, one on its side and the


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other upside down. This suggests they were reused to support a column. Fish can be observed in the cistern, which Oyuz said indicated that the water was safe to drink.

Basilica Cistern

Medusa Head — Basilica Cistern

We then completed a very solid first day with a visit the Palace of Topkapi, the residence of Ottoman sultans and the centre of the Ottoman government. Work on the palace started in 1465 (under Mehmed II). It remained the sultans’ residence until 1856 when Sultan Abdülmecid I moved his court to the newly constructed Dolmabahçe Palace on the Bosphorus.

The palace is certainly spectacular, with impressive tiling, structures and views. Each sultan appears to have built a new wing, and it comprises a number of different styles. Notable parts of the palace include the Harem, the Council chambers and Treasury.

http://www.topkapisarayi.gov.tr/


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Council chamber Throne room

Harem

9 January 2011

We visited the Great Palace Mosaic Museum which contained the remains of the Byzantium Palace floor mosaics in classical Roman style. The fragments show many scenes from daily life, such as hunting, playing, gladiatorial combat, feasting etc. The mosaics were discovered in 1935 and are the only remains of the great imperial palace. They are exhibited in their original place. I very much enjoyed looking at these wonderful mosaics, which provide a link to the past in a way that the ruins of a building cannot. They remind me of the mosaics at Villa Romana del Casale near Piazza Armerina in Sicily.

The mosaics are located in a peristyle of a courtyard of 66.5 by 55.5 metres. They were restored between 1983 and 1997 and are in generally excellent condition. Each mosaic is 5mm square and the exposed mosaic surface is 250 square metres of a total of 1872 square metres. Animals depicted in the mosaics include lions, tigers, leopards, boars, rabbits, deer, elephants, eagles, snakes. Even children playing with wheels are depicted, a game which Oyuz said continues to be played in Turkey.


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Mosaic museum — children riding a dromedary

Boy and his dog

Snake and eagle (out of Homer)

We then enjoyed a boat ride up the Bosphorus (see map at link below) where there are many fine mansions, although quite a few run down hovels.


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The Church of the Chora was a fine example of Byzantine art, with fine mosaics in the gilded Byzantine style, along with a number of frescoes. The church tells the story of Christ and Mary in mosaic and fresco cycles4. The church dated from the 12th century, and was altered in 1321 with the addition of the side chapel with its frescoes (being presumably easier to build than mosaics). Following the Ottoman victory, it was converted to a mosque and it is now a museum.

The importance of icons in Byzantine art (and now in Orthodox art) is interesting given the Iconoclastic Controversy of around the 8th century. In 843, the iconoclastic period concluded at the Council of Constantinople, with the victory of the Orthodox Church over the Iconoclasts (although this would be revisited with the later schism).

Chora Church mosaic

We next made our first visit to the huge Instanbul Archaeological Museum. Among its many exhibits includes the famous ‘Alexander’ sarcophagus found in the Royal Necropolis in Sidon in 1887. The collection includes numerous Greek and Roman statues and busts, sarcophagi, findings from Troy, friezes, mosaics, etc. We had insufficient time on this day to explore the collection properly. The Troy display is quite informative, showing the various layers of Hissarlik which significantly helped understand Troy when we visited it. Included were the so-called Priam’s Treasure originally thought by Schliemann to date from the Trojan war, but which he subsequently found dated to 1000 years earlier (in Troy II rather than Troy VI or VIIa). Most of this hoard went to Berlin but now are now in Moscow.

4 The mosaics are in a totally different style to that of the mosaic museum. The latter are on the floor,

too, while the former appear on walls and the ceiling.

http://www.choramuseum.com/

http://www.istanbularkeoloji.gov.tr/main_page


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‘Alexander’ sarcophagus, Istanbul Archaeological Museum

Troy display: 7

th settlement, Istanbul Archaeological Museum

Some of the so-called treasures of Priam


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10 January 2011

We left early for our flight to Bodrum, modern day Halikarnassos. Our first stop was to see a 2nd century AD Roman ‘copy’ of the Mausoleum of Halikarnassos. This is known as the Gumuskesen Monument. While the structure of the great Mausoleum is unknown (there are a number of speculative designs), this monument is one of the candidates.

Roman copy of Mausoleum of Halikarnassos

Our first major site was of Labranda, in south-west Anatolia, was a Carian site which was important to the Carian ruler and Persian satrap Maussollos (famous for the Mausoleum). This was an impressive site, with spectacular views to the mountains in the distance, on the side of a hill.


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Spectacular mountain views from Labranda

Labranda was site of a cult to Zeus Labraundos (with Zeus depicted with a double axe). The earliest finds date from the 6th century BC. But in 497BC Labranda sided with Miletus against the Persians and lost badly in a battle at Labranda.

In the 4th century BC, Maussollos (377 – 352) made Labranda his family sanctuary. Together with his brother Idrieus, Maussollos built the Temple of Zeus, two halls for sacrificial meals, the north Stoa, the Oikai building, the south propylon (gate building) and the Doric building.

The Temple to Zeus was reached via an 8 metre wide paved road — the sacred way — all the way from Milas.

Each year, a five day feast was celebrated. In 355BC Maussollos was almost assassinated.

Labranda declined subsequently from the Hellenistic period, perhaps due to its isolated location. Since 1948, it has been excavated by Swedish archaeologists.

We walked up to the acropolis — quite a long way but rewarded with fantastic views of snow capped mountains.


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Labranda walls and ruins

More Labranda views

Labranda - acropolis

We next visited the site of Lagina. While not originally scheduled, the visit was fortuitous, with the sanctuary to Hekate (the friezes of which are displayed at the Istanbul Archaeological Museum). Hekate was the goddess associated with cross roads (and often is depicted with three heads to observe the cross road). She was also associated with the female dog, female wolf, mare, snake, hatchet, dagger, key,


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torch and crescent moon: we saw some carvings of dogs (and Christian inscriptions obviously put later: usually the chi-rho found in many of the sites we visited). While a relatively minor deity, this sanctuary must have been impressive: it is expansive and includes a very large entrance. Hekate was also empowered to open the door of Hades, and is said to be the mistress of the dead. Her other attributes included magic.

The volume of ruins was notable, and I had a strong sense of the complexity and dedication that is required as an archaeologist. Each column drum, capital etc, has been carefully separated and classified.

Scenes from Lagina – the temple of Hekate

In Bodrum, we spent two nights at the Majesty Marina Vista Hotel. This was a pleasant hotel with an atrium and pool area.


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11 January 2011

Our first site was the Mausoleum of Halikarnassos. While the original structure has long since disappeared, I was surprised by the extent of the ruins, which included a number of tunnels. The size of the site also gave a reasonable impression of the dimensions of the Mausoleum which must have been truly massive given its status as one of the seven wonders of the ancient world.

The Mausoleum was constructed for the Persian satrap Maussollos and his wife, of Labranda fame. It apparently stood 45 metres tall.

The site of the Mausoleum and a common depiction of the Mausoleum

One of several tunnels to service the Mausoleum

We then briefly observed the Greek theatre of Bodrum. There are several differences between Greek and Roman theatres (the latter often being a modification of a Greek theatre). First, Greek theatres were built on the sides of hills, with the seats running up the hill. By contrast, the Romans had the engineering skills to build a self-standing structure. Second, Greek theatres tend to be in a horseshoe shape; Roman theatres in a semi-circle. Third, Greek theatres did not tend to have a barricade between the audience and the stage. Roman theatres did, in part to protect the audience from marauding beasts etc (whereas Greek theatres were the


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sites of plays such as those by Euripides and used in the Festival of Dionysius (hence an Altar to Dionysius that can be seen in Priene).

Greek Theatre at Bodrum

At lunch we saw several beautiful wooden gullets. This is likely to be a reason for a return visit!

A return visit to cruise on the gullets?

Our next stop was Bodrum Castle. This was built by the Knights Hospitaller starting in 1402. The Knights were based in nearby Rhodes. The castle used stones, marble


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columns and reliefs from the Mausoleum of Halikarnassos. The castle is in excellent condition, and houses the museum of underwater archaeology, which includes an excellent collection of ancient amphorae, ancient glass, bronze, clay and iron objects recovered from the sea. The shipwrecks that have been found include the 12th century BC Finike-Gelidonya (recovered between 1958 and 1959) from the bronze age, and a separate 16th century BC shipwreck; a late Roman shipwreck from the 4th century AD, a Roman merchant vessel with 900 amphorae from the 7th century AD and a 16th century Ottoman shipwreck. There are some very good displays of ancient ships, including the remains of those recovered. The castle is very worth a visit, and one is also rewarded with lovely views of Bodrum with its white buildings.

Amphorae View from Bodrum castle

View from Bodrum castle The Seytan Deresi shipwreck (16

th century BC)

12 January 2011

Our first stop was to the Myndos Gate, which is the only surviving section of the ancient wall of Halikarnassos built by Maussollos in the 4th century BC (which was around 7 km long). The towers are built from andesite stone blocks (volcanic rock). The gate was the site of a ferocious campaign when Alexander besieged the city and the Persians resisted. Alexander used siege engines (eg wooden towers and catapults) facing the Myndos gate, but the Persians and Carians undertook a surprise attack and burned the towers down. Alexander’s forces resisted, pushing back the Persians to the gate (following the sortie) whereupon a wooden bridge collapsed killing many soldiers. Eventually Alexander prevailed and left 2500 soldiers to control the city. Near the gate can be seen the defensive moat (56 metres long, 7 metres


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wide and 2.5 metres deep). Nearby is also an ancient graveyard, and modern cemetery.

Myndos Gate

We then drove to Hierapolis, arriving relatively late which cut short some of the tour (we walked through the ancient necropolis as darkness was arriving!)5.

Hierapolis (near Pamukkale where we stayed overnight at the Lycus River Hotel) was one of four colonies of Phrygia founded by the Seleucids. This is a hot spa town, with calcite-laden waters creating an amazing landscape of white. It has been used as a spa city since the 2nd century BC. There is an opportunity to swim in the ancient hot waters among ancient columns and ruins! The landscape is amazing because of its white calcite deposits, but the ancient city was impressive and well spread out. Hierapolis — like many ancient cities in Turkey — has suffered from earthquakes.

5 Hierapolis-Pamukkale is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. The other sites we visited on the list

are Troy and the historical areas of Istanbul.

http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/485


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White calcite deposits at Hierapolis

Significant sites in Hierapolis include the Temple of Apollo (the major god of Hierapolis) who of course was famous for prophecy among other things. The ruins of the Temple date to the 3rd century AD. To consult the oracle, a person would first sacrifice and give a letter to a priest who would then answer the queries in a usually ambiguous manner. Near to the Temple, is the plutonium or entry way to Hades. One could imagine with the hot waters and steam that ancient people considered this as such an entryway to the underworld! Poisonous gases were emitted from the plutonium so emphasising the risk of descending to Hades.

Temple of Apollo

The Theatre of Hierapolis was in the Greek style, against the side of the hill. The first was damaged in an earthquake, with was reconstructed under the Flavians and completed around 206AD. It has 50 seating rows, divided into 7 parts with 8 stairs. The vaulted passages leading to the vomitorium were clearly evident. The columns on the stage could be seen clearly, and there would have be sculptors to four goddesses. To reflect the Roman taste, there is a barrier protecting the audience from the area in front of the stage where gladiatorial and fights between beasts would have been performed.

Theatre of Hierapolis Ancient columns in hot water

Plutonium


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Other notable areas of Hierapolis include the baths basilica near the necropolis (which has clearly been affected by earthquake damage), the very lavish latrines (which seemed to me so impressive that they may not be latrines), the agora, an area said to be where an ancient olive oil press could be found, and the very impressive and large necropolis.

Hierapolis, in short, was one of the highlights of the trip. The hotel also offered the hot baths, where one could sit in hot water under the sky on a cold winter evening.

Northern Roman gate at Hierapolis — the major gate during the Roman period

Area near the latrines


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Necropolis at Hierapolis — a tumulus

13 January 2011

We next visited the site of Aphrodisias, named after Aphrodite. It was probably a Carian settlement, although it may have been Lydian or Phrygian. The temple of Aphrodite was its major sanctuary. As it is built near an ancient marble quarry, Aphrodisias benefited from an extensive marble supply, which even included the seats of the stadium. Later much of the stone was stolen for other sites, including nearby farmers. Again, earthquakes have caused a good deal of destruction, although the site is very accessible.

Aphrodisias was rewarded by the dictator Sulla when it sided with Rome against Mithridates. It was one of the first towns to adopt Christianity (Christian symbols can be seen, including those that apparently pointed to safety for Christians under attack).

One of the major features is the Sebasteion, which included many friezes which have been preserved in the excellent museum complex. This was rediscovered in 1979 and was a sanctuary to the cult of the deified emperor Augustus. The friezes included the famous ‘Three Graces’ and Claudius defeating Britannia (in reference to the Emperor Claudius’ subjugation of Britain, perhaps the symbolism here being the Emperor defeating an effeminate barbarian?). The friezes depict the lives of Augustus, Tiberius, Claudius and Nero among others.


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Sebasteion at Aphrodisias

Claudius subjugating Britannia (frieze from Sebasteion in museum)


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The Three Graces from the Sebasteion

Other very impressive parts of Aphrodisias include: the Temple to Aphrodite, the Tetrapylon (a decorated gateway from the mid 2nd century AD), the Odeon, the stadium (which is 262 metres long and 59 metres wide and could accommodate up to 30,000 people), the theatre, the agora, and the baths of Hadrian. It was also notable the many masks from the theatre that have been carved in marble. These masks range from the grotesque to classical figures.

Aphrodisias: theatre (top left), temple to Aphrodite (top right), stadium (bottom left) and Tetrapylon

We spent the following four nights at the Hotel Kismet in Kusadasi. This was an impressive hotel that reflected faded glory. It had numerous photos of famous


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visitors (eg the Queen and President Jimmy Carter), from long ago. Kusadasi seems to be a pleasant port city.

14 January 2011

We crossed the Maeander River, which seemed to be placid, yet the continued silting up of the river was the cause of the decline of many cities including Miletus and Priene.

Maeander River — destroyer of cities

We now visited Miletus, one of the great ancient cities. The remains are relatively limited, except for its theatre. It was near the mouth of the Maeander river (until it silted up) and was one of the most powerful and richest cities in the ancient world. The architect of the Hagia Sophia (Isidore) was born here, as was Thales , Anaximander and Anaximenes (notable pre-Socratic philosophers), and Aspasia the mistress of Perikles. It even is mentioned by Homer as the home of the ‘Carians of uncouth speech’ who fought against the Greeks at Troy.

At first one of the twelve Ionian cities in the archaic period, it was part of Lydia and subsequently under Persian rule, Greek/Macedonian rule and Roman. The importance of Miletus was demonstrated by its numerous colonies — Pliny mentions 90 in his Natural History.

While the remains are scant, the theatre is impressive, with huge vaulted vomitoria. We walked around other areas, which included the original port and agora, and baths which were surprisingly interesting after being warned about the limited quantity of ruins! The theatre dated from the 4th century BC, although it was rebuilt by the Romans. It had a capacity of 15,000.

Miletus lost its importance with the silting of the Maeander River.


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A vomitorium at Miletus

Miletus theatre


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Frigidarium of the baths at Miletus

Roman bath complex at Miletus

Our next stop was Heracleia-under-Latmus. It was situated on the Ionian coast — the lake of Bafa was once an arm of the sea — and is dominated by Mount Latmus which the Turks call Bes Parmak or the five fingers. We had lunch at the excellent Pelikan restaurant.

The most significant feature of Heracleia is its walls. There are towers, curtains, gates etc all in excellent condition, and they ran for 6.5 km. The Temple to Athena is also well preserved, with well cut rock beautifully put together.

Notable at the site are the Carian tombs, carved out of solid rock. These are rectangular and covered with a lid. It must have been very difficult to both reach (let alone build) and bury someone.

Finally I need to mention the ‘old ladies’ who show remarkable energy in pursuing visitors to sell hand-made trinkets.


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The impressive Mount Latmus

The ‘old ladies’ of Heracleia

Carian tombs at Haracleia


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View of part of the walls of Heracleia

Finely built walls of temple at Heracleia

15 January 2011

Without doubt, Priene was one of the highlights of the tour. It is important not just because of its interesting and picturesque location, but because it is one of the few classical Greek cities not to be Romanised. Its baths are cold water only. Its apartments are small. Its theatre is purely Greek for celebrating the Festival of Dionysius and watching performances of plays. It has a feeling of intimacy because of its relatively small size that is not present in other cities such as Ephesus.

Priene, like Miletus, suffered from the silting up of the Maeander River. It is likely that its present site was its second site — having been moved to its present site around 334 BC when Alexander was said to have visited. Priene would have been seen as a very small polis compared with Miletus, but it was the birthplace of Bias


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one of the Seven Sages of Antiquity and the major religious assembly of the Panionium.

The whole town sits on a steeply sloping ground, underneath a massive rock cliff, upon which an acropolis stands although we had insufficient time to make climb to the acropolis (apparently it takes about 3 hours to climb and return).

Priene was one of the towns first excavated at the instigation of the London Society of Dilettanti, which funded three Ionian expeditions in the 18th and 19th centuries. The Society was formed in 1732 by group of rich English aristocrats who liked to drink and dress up in togas. The society still exists. One of the requirements for membership was to be nominated by an existing member who had met the nominee in Italy (part of the Grand Tour). The Society’s rules stated that the Society considered Avignon to be in Italy.

The main sanctuary was to Athena Polias, in a position that would have dominated the town.

Because of the steeply sloping ground, Priene has been built on terraces, and steep roads. The town is on a true north-south/east-west grid. It is well preserved, with a very interesting residential district.

Priene – Greek Theatre with the rock cliff behind


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Priene – Temple of Athena Polias

Temple of Athena Polias and rock cliff behind

Residential area of Priene


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Drain on road to wall at end of residential district at Priene

The fine walls of Priene

Unfortunately our visit to Priene was too short — there was much else we could have seen including the gymnasium (upper and lower) and stadium.

We then visited the Temple of Apollo at Didyma. Probably the single most impressive monument on the western coast of Turkey, the temple was the most important sanctuary of Apollo outside of Delphi. It was planned in Hellenistic times — showing that Greeks could build on a monumental scale like the Romans.

The Temple was on Miletus territory, and a sacred way of 17 km went from Miletus to the Temple.

Croesus, the king of Lydia, made substantial offerings to Apollo at Didyma. Herodotus wrote that they comprised 10 talents of pure gold, 226 talents of electrum two huge bowls of gold and silver; four large jars of silver, two sprinklers of gold and silver; his wife’s necklaces and girdles and a life sized gold statue.


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The columns (of which there would have been a double colonnade) had the widest diameter I have ever seen. It took six students with outstretched hands to get around a single column! The weight must have been fantastic.

After the fall of Miletus in 494 BC with its revolt against the Persians, Darius sacked and burnt both temple and oracle. The Branchidae willingly surrendered the treasures to the Persian king. It was not until the time of Alexander when apparently the sacred spring which had been dry gushed again. The Oracle then proclaimed Alexander the true son of Zeus. Around 300 BC, the temple that stands today was built on top of the old temple destroyed by the Persians.

The temple had 120 columns in a dipteral decastyle in the Ionic order. The cella is a large open courtyard with walls 21.3 metres high. Two tunnels (which we walked through) lead down to the cella from the outside.

The Temple of Apollo at Didyma

Medusa at Didyma


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Massive column at Didyma

Temple of Apollo — looking up to the Oracle

Looking down at the internal courtyard of the cella


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Tunnel from exterior to cella

We took the opportunity to visit Magnesia on the Maeander, was one of few Greek cities to not be on the coast. But it too had been resited, and suffered many disasters. It was presented to Themistocles by the Persian king Artaxexes. There is little evidence for the history of Magnesia, though, although it seems to have prospered in Hellenistic times. It remained loyal to Rome when Mithridates was ravaging Asia Minor, and was subsequently rewarded as a ‘free’ city.

The remains of Magnesia are relatively few. Indeed, it seems that some earlier excavations are being covered up by silting.

Magnesia on the Maeander


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Nice reflections on columns at Magnesia on the Maeander

16 January 2011

Today we visited Ephesus, the most famous ancient site on Western Turkey. Yet, while I was pleased to visit, I found it a little disappointing. Perhaps it was its size (very large) and the many other sites we visited. Perhaps it was the library of Celsus, which has become the symbol of Ephesus yet was only rebuilt relatively recently. Yet the library is impressive, apparently storing 12,000 scrolls.

The marble roads, and interesting inscriptions were certainly highlights. So too was the long road to the port (the silting up again leading to the decline of Ephesus). For the road from the port to be made of marble demonstrates how important Ephesus was antiquity.

But my favourite part of Ephesus was the apartment block which included some extremely interesting dwellings, one of which was 900 square metres. The frescoes and floor mosaics were very interesting and testify to the wealth of the city.

The city was also noted for the cult of Artemis, with its temple one of the wonders of the ancient world. The Ephesus museum displays a number of figures of Artemis. It also had a number of displays of Priapos, Bes (the Egyptian equivalent), Aphrodite and Eros.


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View of Ephesus to the library of Celsus

Apartment in Ephesus — frescoes

Apartment in Ephesus — mosaics


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Marble road to port at Ephesus

View to theatre at Ephesus

Statue of Artemis, Ephesus museum


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17 January 2011

We saw some modern reconstructions of ancient boats, which were being constructed as closely to the physical evidence (including depictions on pottery) can allow.

We also took the opportunity to visit Klazomenai, which consisted of a reconstruction of an ancient olive oil press. Nearby is a bridge across to an island (now a hospital); the bridge is said to be where Alexander’s mole was constructed.

Overnight we stayed at the Kaya Prestige in Izmir, one of the major cities of Turkey, which was ancient Smyrna.

18 January 2011

We visited the Izmir Archaeological museum which had a good collection of pottery, jewellery and coins. Particularly notable were some of the funerary dressings of gold.

Golden funerary mask 4

th century BC Izmir museum

We then had a very disappointing visit to ancient Smyrna which appears to have suffered from indifferent restoration and archaeological work. The remains are sparse and scarcely worth visiting. This was such a disappointment given the importance of Smyrna in the ancient world.

On the way to Bergama, we stopped at the so-called tomb near Phocaea (which is one of few things ancient to be found in or around ancient Phocaea). This tomb is about 8 km from Phocaea, and called by the Turks Tas Kule. It stands 6.1 metres high and is carved out of a single outcrop of rock. The monument is plain, except for the eastern face which has a false door with four panels. The burial chamber is also plain. It seems generally to be considered a Persian tomb.


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“Persian” tomb

While there is little ancient to be seen in Phocaea, the town itself is very pretty and we enjoyed an excellent seafood lunch. Overnight we stayed at the Hotel Berksoy in Bergama (somewhat disappointing).

19 January 2011

We next visited Pergamon. This required a cable car ride to the peak which has amazing views (from 98 to 301 metres). Transporting goods up to the citadel must have been very difficult. Pergamon was significant power from the Hellenistic period. The Pergamon empire lasted until the death of Attalus III in 133 BC without issue and in his will bequeathing the kingdom to Rome.

The major temple in Pergamon was to Zeus; its friezes now reside in the Pergamon museum in Berlin. The temple was a model for Augustus’ Ara Pacis in Rome.

Pergamon also boasts an extremely steep theatre — it seems almost 45 degrees! Pergamon is also famous for its library, which competed with the library of Alexandria. Pergamon apparently invented parchment as an alternative to papyrus because Alexandria was concerned that the Pergamon library might overtake its library and restricted the export of papyrus.

Transporting water to the citadel was via an inverted siphon. An aqueduct originates (the remains can still be seen) at Mt Pindasos, 1230 metres high, 900 metres higher than the citadel of Pergamon.

http://www.smb.museum/smb/standorte/index.php?lang=en&p=2&objID=27&n=15


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Temple of Trajan, citadel of Pergamon

View of the steep theatre View of the citadel

Theatre Temple of Zeus

Impressive series of arches


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Following the visit to Pergamon, we descended to visit the Asclepion, or health sanctuary. This dates to the 4th century BC and is associated with the cult of Asclepios. Being on low ground, it suffered from sieges and raids being less protected than the citadel of Pergamon. Access to the Asclepion was via a sacred way, and it includes a theatre, spring water and baths for curing sick patients. One notable feature was a rounded structure where patients would go around and not find an end. The sound of running water, the long baths were considered important for curing illness. That said, admission of very ill or dying patients was forbidden.

Asclepion: north stoa Rounded path for patients

View up to Pergamon View of the Asclepion and Pergamon

Are the visit to the Asclepion, we drove to Canakkale for six nights at the Kervansaray Hotel.

20 January 2011

Our first stop was to Assos. We walked through a small town to proceed to the acropolis. It was an important city, where Aristotle opened an academy and taught at the gymnasium. Assos was founded around 1000 BC by Aeolian colonists from nearby Lesbos (which can be seen). There was a Doric temple to Artemis, built around 530 BC. It was subject to the rule of Pergamon until it passed to the Romans. Assos is on a site not dissimilar to Priene, including terracing, a large acropolis (not as high as Priene) and the sea (which of course has receded at Priene). There are spectacular views at Assos and the sight is clearly defensible, although it seems that the written record for what appears a well endowed and prosperous community is sparse.


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Assos Temple View to Lesbos

Road through necropolis Theatre of Assos

We next took the opportunity to visit Alexandria Troas, which is partially excavated. This is a very interesting site, which was important under Augustus and later emperors of Rome. It was formed by Antigonus from 7 villages around 300 BC. Lysimachus took over and dedicated the city to Alexander. Roman emperors at first considered the city for the capital of the Eastern empire; eventually settling on Constantinople.

German archaeologists spend two months a year at the site — at that rate it will apparently take 1500 years to fully excavate! Four columns from Alexandria Troas are at the Vatican.

At the site, it is notable for the number of sherds and some marble inscriptions. Early explorers mistook the site for Troy. The site extends over some 400 hectares, but very little has been excavated.

The priest of the Temple of Apollo, 35 km away, lived in Alexandria Troas. The city walls extended 7.5 km. A sacrificial well was found, 12 metres deep, with a skeleton of a girl 23 – 24 years old with a case of silver in her hand. An L-shaped tunnel leads to the agora. The Temple was built by Augustus, although we do not know which god it was dedicated to.

Altogether Alexandria Troas is a very interesting site, which is worthy of considerably greater excavation efforts.


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Alexandria Troas: sarcophagus with oak leaves

Mountains of sherds at Alexandria Troas


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Alexandria Troas

21 January 2011

Today we visited the sites of Gallipoli, including ANZAC cove, the Lone Pine cemetery, the British memorial, the Turkish memorial and the French memorial.

22 January 2011

We first visited the Canakkale museum, which includes some excellent sarcophagi. Notable also was Frank Calvert’s furniture. Calvert seems to have been written out of the history of the discovery of Troy. Yet it was he who encouraged Schliemann and even showed Schliemann where to dig at Hissarlik.

Frank Calvert’s furniture Sarcophagus Canakkale Museum

We then made our way to Troy. It was very moving to imagine the Trojan war and the accounts of Homer and other authors of that battle and to imagine life at Troy in 1250 BC. It may be a myth, yet it has powerful messages for the Greeks, Roman and down through other European civilisations.


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Troy itself is difficult to understand, with nine layers of settlements. Manfred Korfmann has done well, though, to signpost the site to give a sense of the different layers and to understand Troy’s topography. Yet, even so, one got the sense of being led along a specified path (compared with other sites where one is free to go in any direction). Schliemann’s infamous trench was clearly visible. Who knows what has been lost?

Scaling the fine sloping walls of Troy

Troy


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The many levels of Troy

Our next stop was the Achilles Tumulus. While there was no evidence that Achilles (if he existed) was buried here, Alexander and Caesar both thought so and visited the tumulus (burial mound). Alexander ran naked around the mound!

Achilles Tumulus – the only day it rained!


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The Achilles Tumulus

23 January 2011

Today we saw an interesting Ottoman castle on the Gallipoli peninsula, an Ottoman WWI fort and went in search of the ancient city of Sestos, which has not yet been excavated.

24 January 2011

We visited the unexcavated site of Kardia on the Gallipoli peninsula. The ground having been freshly ploughed had many sherds on display. We found some interesting colourful sherds as well as a small figurine.

Small figurine at Kardia


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Our final visit was to the beach that marked the end of the Peloponnesian War at Aegospotami in 405 BC when the Spartans defeated the Athenians, partly with a ploy of undertaking sorties and retreating over a number of days before finally attacking with the Athenians unprepared on shore (and having ignored the advice of Alcibiades).

The beach was a disgraceful garbage dump. Perhaps this was apposite?

Aegospotami

25 — 27 January 2011

We next travelled to Bursa (visiting the beautiful silk market) and staying overnight at the best hotel of the journey: Hotel Kervansaray Bursa. Following our return to Istanbul, we took the opportunity to revisit the Istanbul Archaeological Museum, look at the Grand Bazaar and have a Turkish Bath (which I enjoyed and which is the closest to a Roman bath in the modern world).

course diary anu classics turkey january 2011

Documents

modern cities

interesting ancient

restoration of ancient

ancient world

ancient artefacts

ancient marble

greek cities

various sites