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Creating Replica Props from Video Games Creating Replica Props from Video Games A guide to creating realistic, real life props from your favorite video games (I guess it works for TV, movies, and comic books too). Index Introduction – Page 1 The Authors – Page 2 Safety – Pages 2-3 Starting a Project – Pages 4-5 Gathering Reference Materials – Pages 5-10 Supplies & Materials – Pages 10-14 Tools – Pages 14-15 Outsourcing – Page 15 Painting & Finishing – Pages 15-18 Online Resources – Page 18 Useful Retail Stores – Page 19 Introduction This guide is a collaborative effort by several prop makers to gather the massive amount of information that we've learned over the past several years about creating replica props. The four of us got together to do a panel on the subject for PAX East 2012 and decided to collect what we've learned in this comprehensive guide to creating realistic props, specifically those from video games. Bear in mind that the words below reflect the state of retailers, techniques and available materials in the spring of 2012 and much of the information may change as time moves forward. This document is a work in progress. There are some topics that aren't yet covered here (*cough* mold making *cough*). I promise that these areas will be addressed in a future version. We truly hope that you can learn from this guide and share your creative projects with the rest of the world. Thank you for taking a peek into our world. Bill Doran – April 2012 1

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Page 1: Creating Replica Props from Video Games · Creating Replica Props from Video Games Creating Replica Props from Video Games A guide to creating realistic, real life props from your

Creating Replica Props from Video Games

Creating Replica Props from Video Games

A guide to creating realistic, real life props from your favorite video games (Iguess it works for TV, movies, and comic books too).

Index• Introduction – Page 1

• The Authors – Page 2

• Safety – Pages 2-3

• Starting a Project – Pages 4-5

• Gathering Reference Materials – Pages 5-10

• Supplies & Materials – Pages 10-14

• Tools – Pages 14-15

• Outsourcing – Page 15

• Painting & Finishing – Pages 15-18

• Online Resources – Page 18

• Useful Retail Stores – Page 19

IntroductionThis guide is a collaborative effort by several prop makers to gather the

massive amount of information that we've learned over the past several years

about creating replica props. The four of us got together to do a panel on thesubject for PAX East 2012 and decided to collect what we've learned in this

comprehensive guide to creating realistic props, specifically those from video

games.Bear in mind that the words below reflect the state of retailers, techniques

and available materials in the spring of 2012 and much of the information may

change as time moves forward. This document is a work in progress. There aresome topics that aren't yet covered here (*cough* mold making *cough*). I

promise that these areas will be addressed in a future version.

We truly hope that you can learn from this guide and share your creativeprojects with the rest of the world. Thank you for taking a peek into our world.

Bill Doran – April 2012

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Creating Replica Props from Video Games

The AuthorsBill Doran - http://props.punishedpixels.com/Matt Munson – http://mattmunson.blogspot.com/

Harrison Krix – http://volpinprops.blogspot.com/

Zander Brandt – http://zprops.blogspot.com/

SafetyYou probably won't be working with super industrial, heavy duty machinery,

but there are still many safety concerns that should be kept in mind whilebuilding replica props.

Just about every safety lesson you should have learned in shop class applies

here. You will end up working with power tools, sharp objects, and chemicals.All of those “common sense” safety tips apply, with a few specific concerns.

Get a respirator, right now. Goahead, I'll wait. Got it? Ok great!

It's the best $30 you'll spend at

the hardware store. Also makesure to buy replacement filters

at the recommended intervals.

You will be using some smelly,toxic stuff and a good respirator

will keep your lungs healthy and

happy.

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Creating Replica Props from Video Games

A dust mask will keep harmfuldust (like sawdust or Bondo

dust) from caking your lungs

with gunk. It won't keep fumesfrom getting to you like the

respirator, but it is the minimal

line of defense against dustparticles.

The goggles! They do nothing so

much! Seriously though, withthe amount of flying debris that

will be headed towards your

face, it's only a matter of timebefore a shard of it takes out

one or both of your eyes. Protect

yourself.

A pair of good, leathergardening gloves will pay

dividends throughout your prop

making career. These are cheapand will protect your digits from

most (non power driven) blades

as well as high heat whilehandling hot plastics.

VENTILATION: I mentioned earlier that you would be working with lots

of toxic fumes. While the respirator is helpful and necessary, it is best to doubleup the safety by working in a well ventilated area. This is especially important

when working with spray paints and Bondo. If possible, do most of your toxic

chemical spraying outside. If that isn't a possibility, then paint near a largewindow with a box fan pointing OUT. You can also set up such a fan with an air

filter to clean the air a bit before it passes through your fan and out into the

world at large.A good guideline: If you can smell the spray paint or other nasty

chemical stinks, you're probably doing it wrong.

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Creating Replica Props from Video Games

Starting a ProjectYou're ready to start your very first replica prop project, bravo! Let's get

started.

Pick something that is appropriate for your skill level.

You may want to jump in feet first and craft a full scale, functional

Normandy SR2, but if it's your first project you should consider starting small.If you are really new to the art, then consider modifying an existing toy or

model. There is a huge online community that mods Nerf guns and other toys.

This is a great way to cut your teeth on some new tools and practice refinishingplastic to look like metal or wood. Another option is to purchase a blank “kit” of

an item that has been crafted by another prop maker. You can practice

assembling and painting on something like this:

Be mindful of the tools you have at your disposal.

Your tool arsenal limits what you'll be able to accomplish. Do you have thefunds to purchase new tools that you may need? Keep that in mind when

picking a project.

Budget your cost.

Odds are you will be funding your projects with your own disposable

income (unless you have a sugar daddy, you lazy jerk). You will quickly learnhow fast this hobby can make your hard earned cash vanish. Do yourself a

favor and set a hard monetary limit on your project costs before rushing to the

store to stock up on materials.A strict budget may keep you from starting a more complicated build. This

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isn't a bad thing, especially if you're new to prop making. You will inevitablymess up and ruin expensive materials and have to rebuild some parts (or entire

projects). Try to reign in the spending, especially early on.

Also consider using cheaper materials in the place of their expensivecounterparts. Buying vinyl cloth instead of leather or plastic instead of metal

will keep your costs down and expand the options for your choice of projects.

Budget your time.

You will probably end up having a deadline for your prop or costume

build. Usually that deadline is determined by the next comic or video gameconvention. You may have to finish several projects before you get a good read

on your build pace. The best practice is to try and finish a build a couple of

weeks early. Time eating issues tend to pop up on every project, so giveyourself some wiggle room.

Gathering Reference MaterialsGetting accurate reference images for your builds is crucial when your goal is

accuracy. With video games, there are many ways to get your hands on high

quality reference material.

Google (or Bing, HA! Riiiiiiiight...) Image Search

The quickest and easiest way to get your hands on some in-game screen shotsis to do a quick web image search. Be sure to use the largest image size filter

that still yields relevant results. Try to find images that are good orthographic

(front/side/top) representations of the object that you're trying to replicate. Ifyou're really lucky, you'll find photos of a really good prop that someone else

has already made!

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Creating Replica Props from Video Games

In-Game Image Gathering

If the internet isn't providing fruitful,you'll have to gather your own images

from within the video game. Usually, the easiest way to gather in-game footageand images is from a PC, as opposed to a console (PS3/Xbox360/Atari 2600).

• The PrtScn (Print Screen) button will copy a still image of whatever is on

the screen and send it to the clipboard. After nabbing the image, go to

your favorite image editor (Photoshop/GIMP/MS Paint) and paste theimage into a new document.

• Some games have a dedicated screen shot button that will grab a still andsend it to a specified folder on your computer (bless their hearts!). Look

in the control menus of your favorite game for these kind of controls.

Cinematic Image Gathering

Sometimes the best references are in pre-rendered cinematic movies.

Nowadays, many of these videos are available in HD1080 resolution onYouTube. You can bust out your PrtScn skill here too! Be sure to run the video

at the highest resolution and run it full screen. Then pause on the best frame

and snap your image.If you're on Windows, you can use the Snipping Tool. It allows you to draw a

box around any screen area and snap a still of it.

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In-Engine Model ViewingIf you're REALLY lucky, the video game you require references for will have

some kind of built in 3D model viewer. These kind of viewers usually let you

cycle through all of the game models. Sometimes you can use them to play allof the animations and poses. The best feature is that you can rotate the view

around an object and take screen shots from all angles.

Valve's Source SDK has an excellent viewer that let's you view any modelmade for the Source engine (Team Fortress 2/Half Life 2):

There is also a utility called 3D Ripper DX. This doesn't work for all games andengines, but it is worth a try if you're having trouble getting reference images

any other way.

When taking screen shots from in-game models, beware overt focal distortion.This is when the camera is zoomed way out, causing the parts that are closer to

the camera to be way bigger than those that are further away.

Game Art

Oftentimes, a popular video game will have a book of game art made available.

These can prove extremely valuable when looking for concept art of yourdesired items. Plus, they're usually really awesome to have on your coffee

table.

Another great resource for game art is the personal websites of video gameconcept artists.

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Screen Shots from Video Game Consoles

Sometimes your favorite video game is not available on PC. When you're done

crying in your breakfast cereal, you can go purchase a video capture card foryour PC and run the video from the console into your PC to get screen shots

that way. This method can get pretty expensive, depending on the video

capture card you buy and what resolution you want to capture your footage in.A cheaper and far less effective method is to simply take photos of your

television screen with the best camera that you own (yes, I've done this, it isn't

very good, but it's better than nothing).

Vector Your References

When you have all of your reference images collected, it is extremely helpful totrace some vector line drawings of the object. You can use applications such as

Illustrator, CorelDraw or Inkscape (FREE). These 2D drawings can be scaled to

the proper dimensions and printed to use when cutting out pieces of yourproject.

These kind of vectors can also be used if you plan on having your pieces cut

out with a laser cutter.

If your printer isn't big enough to handle the pieces that you have drawn up,you can either print them in pieces and tape them together or go to a place like

Fedex/Kinkos to have them print it on their large format printers.

SCALE YOUR OBJECT before you start cutting out pieces. Test the size with aprinted out version and re-print new sizes to do comparisons. Finding out the

object is far too small after you've already cut out all of the pieces is

heartbreaking, unless you have children who want to be Commander Sheppard.

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3D Modeling Software

If you're really dedicated, you can re-create your object in a myriad of 3D

editing applications. This is useful and necessary if you plan on having any ofyour parts 3D printed or sculpted with a CNC machine.

Software

• Google Sketchup (FREE)

• Blender (FREE)

• Maya (Has a free version)

• 3D Studio Max

PepakuraIf you've created a 3D version of your object, you can go the super cheap

route of pepakura. You can also search the web for already made pepakura files.

For the uninitiated, pepakura is:

Paper models, also called card models or papercraft, are models constructed mainly from sheets ofheavy paper, paperboard, or card stock.

The application Pepakira Designer converts 3D models into flat, laid outversions of your prop pieces that you print onto heavy card stock. Then you cut

out the pieces, glue them together and VOILA! You've got a prop!

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This is a very quick and cheap method for building props, but it does havemany limitations. Mostly, the finished pieces lack the fine detail and polish of a

solid prop build from plastic, metal or wood. Also, they have a tendency to be

flimsy and not very durable unless properly reinforced.

Prop Making Materials

The materials that you end up using will depend on your budget, the tools you

have available, material availability, and how comfortable you are using them.

Different and exact levels of quality can be achieved using a variety of materials.Ultimately, there is no “perfect” way or material to build your props.

The Giant List of Prop Making Materials

Woods and MDF

• MDF

• PROS:

• Found easily in hardware stores

• Glues easily

• Sands easily

• No woodgrain

• CHEAP!

• CONS:

• Extremely toxic to cut/sand/shape

• Very susceptible to moisture

• Can’t take fine detail into surface

• Heavy

• HARDWOODS

• PROS:

• Found easily in hardware stores

• Glues easily

• Very strong

• Can make a very pretty finished piece

• CONS:

• Woodgrain is difficult to carve around

• Can be harder to cut than MDF or softer wood

• Hiding woodgrain under paint can be tricky

• Foams

• EVA (“CRAFT FOAM”)

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Creating Replica Props from Video Games

• PROS:

• Resilient to damage & rough handling

• Glues easily

• Cuts easily

• Quick to work with

• CHEAP!

• CONS:

• Cannot sand/sands very poorly

• Large sheets can be difficult to source

• Low density foam is flimsy

• POLYSTYRENE FOAM (PINK/BLUE INSULATION FOAM)

• PROS:

• Found easily in hardware stores

• Easy to sand/cut

• Very lightweight

• CONS:

• Any solvent paint/medium will dissolve it

• Very fragile

• Cannot take intricate shaping/carving

• EXPANDING FOAM

• PROS:

• Found easily in hardware stores

• Quick way to fill cavities

• CONS:

• Carving often leaves large voids/bubbles

• Difficult to shape well

• Large amounts can get pricey

• High quality expanding foam is pricey ($90+/Gallon)

• FLORIST’S FOAM

• PROS:

• Found easily in craft stores

• Somewhat easy to shape

• Very lightweight

• Resistant to solvents

• CONS:

• Extremely fragile

• Can’t take detailed carving

• Difficult to glue or attach to other parts

• Plastics

• ACRYLIC

• PROS:

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Creating Replica Props from Video Games

• Found easily in hardware stores (Limited sizes, all clear)

• Glues easily

• Sands easily

• CONS:

• Brittle

• Hard to find in more than 2 sizes (without mail ordering)

• Difficult to form to curved shapes (without vacforming)

• Difficult to cut with standard tools

• PVC PIPE

• PROS:

• Found easily in hardware stores

• Tons of sizes

• Glues easily

• Very strong

• CONS:

• Pipe only; do not try to heat bend!

• Can be tricky to paint

• Unique sizes can be expensive

• PVC SHEET (“SINTRA”)

• PROS:

• Tons of sizes/thicknesses

• Glues easily

• Paints easily

• Very strong

• Easy to shape, sand, form to curves

• CONS:

• Thicker sheets can be expensive

• Fumes from heat shaping are toxic

• Difficult to form into compound curves

• STYRENE

• PROS:

• Tons of sizes, shapes, dimensions:

• Sheet, bar stock, patterned parts

• Glues easily

• Forms easily

• Sands and takes paint well

• Cuts easily with exacto blade

• CONS:

• Difficult to find in “moderate” scale - 4’x8’ or small sheets only

• Thinner sheets can be flimsy

• Complex forming requires vacuumform machine

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• Resins and Clay

• APOXIE SCULPT (MAGIC SCULPT, 2 PART EPOXY CLAY)

• PROS:

• Easy to shape, sand, machine

• Paints easily

• Non toxic

• Long working time

• Takes very intricate detail

• CONS:

• Expensive

• Heavy

• Fragile when parts are thin

• BONDO (POLYESTER RESIN FILLERS)

• PROS:

• Easy to shape, sand, machine

• Paints easily

• Cheap

• Available almost everywhere

• CONS:

• Very toxic

• Very messy (dust, goop everywhere)

• Tedious to sand and shape

• POLYESTER RESIN (“FIBERGLASS” RESIN)

• PROS:

• Cheap

• Available at most hardware stores

• Very strong

• Lightweight when used correctly

• CONS:

• Very toxic

• Very messy

• Fast working time

• Difficult to sand

• Brittle when used alone

• URETHANE RESIN

• PROS:

• Non Toxic

• Easy to sand

• Fast cure time

• Easy to paint/dye

• Lots of different options (cure time, color, hardness, etc)

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• CONS:

• Requires use of a mold in most instances

• Pricey ($90-$150/gallon)

• Has a “shelf life” and will not be usable after a certain time

ToolsThe tools that we use serve a couple of important functions. The make the work

we do go faster and they make the work more precise. As you acquire better,

more professional tools the build times go down and the quality tends to go up.

This is, however, no reason why you can't create amazing props with very basictools.

The Giant List of Tools• Beginner Tools / Must have for any builder.

• Dremel/Rotary Tool

• Hand Tools

• x-acto knife and various blades

• Assorted files, large and small

• Sanding block / sand paper

• Coping Saw

• T-Square / straight edge / 321 blocks

• Hack Saw

• Single edged razor blades / Box knife

• Plastic cups, popsicle sticks (for resin mixing)

• Hot Glue Gun

• Toothpicks

• Clothes pins, clips of various sizes

• Rubber Bands

• Q-Tips

• Gram Scale

• Mixing buckets and paint mixing sticks, or drill mixers

• Paint Brushes and Chip Brushes

• Sculpting tools and clays

• Spray Primers and Paint

• Acrylic Paints

• Isopropyl alcohol / Mineral Spirits / Paint Thinner

• Latex gloves

• Mid Level Tools

• Table Saw

• Band Saw

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• Belt and Disk Sander

• Drill press

• Scroll Saw (bench top)

• Jig Saw (hand held)

• Circular Saw

• Vice

• Airbrush / Spray Gun / Compressor

• Router or Router Table.

• Soldering Iron

• “The Chopper”

• Advanced Machinery

• Lathe

• Mill

• Grinder

• Vacuum Former

• Laser Cutter

• Vinyl Plotter / Cutter

• MIG Welder

• CNC Routing / Mill / Lathe

• Chop Saw / Miter Saw

• 3D Printer - Makerbot

OutsourcingSometimes you just don't have the time, resources, or skill to build a

certain piece of a project. Do you have some spare cash burning a hole in your

pockets? If so, you can pay some of these fine folks to fabricate parts for you!

• Ponoko – Laser Cutting

• Batch PCB – Printer Circuit Boards

• Shapeways – 3D Printing

• Chroming Shops

• Another prop maker who is looking for work

Painting & FinishingOnce your prop has been built, you'll probably want to finish it off by

painting it. This is where a lot of the real artistry comes in, especially when it

comes to the weathering process.

The General Process

• Sanding

• Primer

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• Sanding (again!)

• Texturing (if needed)

• Base Coat of Color

• Top Coat of Accent Colors

• Decals

• Weathering

• Clearcoat

General Theory

• Keep in mind that items should be weathered as they would in the

real world!

• Nothing starts off from the factory with “battle damage”

• Don’t try to disguise bad work as “weathering”

• The best weathering jobs are intentional

• Colors and mixing

• Dirt is more than brown, grime is more than black

• Rust has purple, yellow hues

• Examine real-world items and draw inspiration there

• Break away from videogame renders; think polygons to texture

maps. You wouldn’t make a rifle show all the angled polygons

and pixelation; weathering should look real

• Less is more (Trite but true)

• Overdone weathering will make a piece less believable

• Consider actual wear areas and maintenance

• A rifle receiver bolt will be shiny and silver from use, the butt

stock will be worn

• Don’t weather areas that won’t see weathering!

Materials

• Paints

• Acrylic:

• easy to use

• easy clean up

• non-toxic

• Enamel:

• hand painting

• harm health

• very slow dry

• harm plastic

• Lacquer:

• beautiful gloss

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• very tough

• harm health

• hand painting

• Spraypaints

• Textured, gloss, matte

• Primers

• Clearcoats

• Rub n’ Buff

• Nice “metallic” look and shine

• Can wear off over time

• Powders/Fillers

• Metal fillers

• silver, brass, iron filings

• Texture fillers

• Grit, sand, shale flake

• Other “found” objects: Sand, Glitter, etc

• Painting Rack(s)

• PVC and cheap clips from Home Depot. A good paint rack

is an afternoon project that will save a ton of time andfrustration down the road.

• Texturing

• Hammered paints

• Grip textures

• Plasti-Dip paint

• Paper Towel technique

• Recreates the process of wiping off a replica with a dirty

rag or cloth. Lower areas retain layers of paint while raised

parts are “cleaned.” Because of the paint loaded on thepaper towel, even “clean” areas have a tint of grime.

• Condiment Technique

• Additive process of “painting” on a substrate that will notcure or adhere to layers of spray topcoating. In this

example, mustard is used, several layers of paint are

added, and then the mustard is scraped off fromunderneath the paint revealing the coat of paint

underneath. This will work with a variety of non-food

items as well, such as liquid latex.

• Scratches/damage

• Consider HOW the part will be damaged; what is likely to

be scuffed, scratched, dented, and how often.

• rocks, driveway

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• Engraving tools

• rotary tools

• Drybrushing

• Usually done with silver; process involves getting a verylight amount of paint on a brush and lightly scraping

raised areas in order to make highlights. Simulates gentile

wear and paint scuffs well.

• Antiquing

• Process of painting over a brighter undercoat with a

darker layer, then using a polishing method (steel wool,sandpaper, etc) to bring out raised areas as highlights.

• Decals

• Water Slide - only darker colors over lighter colors. Can beprinted through home printers, but inkjet prints will need

to be “sealed” in clearcoat before application

• Vinyl - Thicker, less intricate, but crisp and sharp colors

• Dry transfer decals - expensive and difficult to source in

small quantities. These usually come from hobby stores in

set fonts/patterns

• Vinyl masking - like very complicated masking tape! Cutout a negative of the design and paint in the void, then

remove the decal when the paint is cured

• Printed decals - hard to color match, but cheap and easy

to reproduce. Like water slide decals, these will need to be

sealed before weathering.

• Clearcoating/finalizing

• Use a different chemical than your weathering coat

• Test first! Some paints can dissolve others!

• Terms:

• Gloss: Shiny

• Satin: Semi-glossy. Somewhat duller

• Matte: Less glossy still, but still some sheen

• Flat: No shine at all

Online Resources• http://www.thereplicapropforum.com/

• http://thesuperherocostumingforum.yuku.com/

• http://astromech.net/forums/index.php

• http://theleagueofheroes.yuku.com/directory

• http://bbrotherhoodofthebat.runboard.com/

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Creating Replica Props from Video Games

• http://www.501st.com/

• http://cosplay.com/

• http://www.makerbot.com/

Useful Retail Stores• http://www.harborfreight.com/

• http://www.micromark.com/

• http://www.mcmaster.com/

• http://www.homedepot.com/

• http://www.lowes.com

• http://www.shapeways.com/

• http://www.smooth-on.com/

• http://www.silpak.com/

• http://www.burmanindustries.com/

• http://www.amazon.com/

That's it for now. There's nothing left to read down here...

I mean it. I'm all done. It's my 30th birthday and I'm going out for drinks.

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