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CROCHET ON THE LOOM



Crochet on the loom tutorial

By Vanessa Soto

www.vbchalice.com

Temporary email address: [email protected]

Introduction

The goal of this tutorial is to get you to start crocheting on the loom. My vision is to build upon these basic crocheting techniques and be able to make anything crocheted on the loom. This tutorial is designed to teach you the basic techniques. You can practice these techniques by making these very easy and small projects. Once you get the hang of it, go online, bookstore, or library and find a crochet pattern you like and get to it! Don’t forget to send me a picture of it!

Before beginning this tutorial, I would like to acknowledge Brenda Myers, the creator of the first Granny-on-the-loom. Brenda Myers discovered how to make a granny square on the loom using two pegs and with that she developed the first basic crochet stitches. Please visit her blog at http://loomlady.blogspot.com/. (By the way, in this tutorial I use the drawstring cast on so if you don’t know how to do it already you will need to visit her blog anyway LOL). Brenda coined the term Loomchet for crocheting on the loom. If it sticks, that can be a universal term for us loomers.

When I found her blog and read about the granny square, I immediately set off on making them and was instantly hooked. I did searches upon searches of granny squares of various colors, types and shapes. I wanted to make them all. I also searched about crocheting on the loom and came up with only Brenda Myers blog. That is what inspired me to experiment. I first began by making granny squares of course and then I expanded to making motifs and blocks and then to amigurumi. All using two pegs on the loom! I worked in the round and flat using two pegs. It was tedious but totally doable and exciting! I wanted to prove that I can crochet on the loom and have!

But my mind kept thinking – what if I can use all the pegs? I kept playing with the loom and the stitches until it finally clicked for me. I discovered that not only can you crochet in the round or flat panels using two pegs but you can crochet flat panels on the loom using all the pegs! This is my claim to fame, LOL! Yes, all the pegs! I was and am so excited by this! Since it is new, I am sure that even more things will be discovered. I am not saying that what I am showing you is an exact and precise way to crochet on the loom. This a road in which I invite you to explore, create and share with all of us to expand this whole new world of crocheting on the loom. I am sure within time; this technique will be revised, expanded and updated. Please feel free to contact me and let me know your thoughts. Should you find something wrong with the wording or the patterns, please let me know. Should you expand on these techniques, please let me know. Should you create beautiful things with these techniques please let me know. In short, please let me know. ☺ Happy crocheting everyone



If you have never crocheted prior to this tutorial, you may want to pick up a crochet book once you start these projects. There are lots of things that I will not mention in this tutorial and that a crochet book can supply. The same basic principles in crocheting on the needle apply to the loom. There are many books out there to help you grasp crocheting.

For those of you that are familiar and even experts in crocheting, you may find yourself going through this tutorial very quickly and easily. You will notice that once you understand how to make the stitches, most crochet “rules” apply to both the loom and on the hook.

Crochet language. The loom‘s primary language has been the knitting language. Loomers learn, write and speak in the knitting language. Since this is crochet, I thought its best to use crochet language. It will be the same abbreviations in crochet so we can write, speak and apply crochet universally. Although the language will be the same, the way to crochet will be different but the rules of crocheting stay the same.

Terminology and quick reference guide. I made the terminology and quick reference guide on its own page so you can print it out and keep it with you while you work. You will not be using all the terms in the reference guide in this tutorial. I just added a lot more to it so when you want to make your first crochet item other than what is in this tutorial, you may find what you are looking for in this chart. Makes life easier. The crochet stitches in this tutorial

• Single crochet • Double crochet • Half double • Treble • Double Treble • Popcorn

Reading charts and patterns: If you don’t know how to read crochet patterns, I suggest you search online on how to do this. I am working on posting this type of information in the future. The one thing you must remember that we are doing this on the loom. So if you are following a pattern that call for 144 single crochet stitches which makes a 12 “ flat panel, you may just need to make 38 stitches on the loom or 150 stitches depending on which loom you are using as well as yarn. I find that for blankets, scarves and dishcloths I have to go by the size of the finished project, not the amount of chains specified in the pattern. Then I adjust the pattern to how many stitches I make. It’s not as hard as it seems.

Alternating from knit to crochet

It can be done; you just have to decide what you want to do with the WYL (working yarn loop). I have to admit I only played around with this and have made no patterns as of yet. Feel free to play around, explore and create!



Granny square, blocks and motifs

For granny square, blocks, and motifs you will probably be using just two pegs. I usually follow these patterns literally. Although they may come out bigger because of the gauge of the loom, that doesn’t bother me. I mostly make these to make an afghan so the bigger they are, the less I have to make.

Copyright information and distribution info.

Always be aware of copyright and distribution info. If it’s not yours, don’t say it is.

How to hold the loom to crochet.

For round looms and single rakes (Da looms set sampler), I find it easier to hold the loom tilted upwards and the pegs toward me with the loom on my lap. The picture demonstrates how to properly hold the loom.

I took the picture myself while holding the loom. I was looking down towards my hands.

What loom is best to use.

It all depends on what you want to accomplish.

For example, if you want to crochet an amigurumi (Japanese toy) you will need to use a small or fine gauge loom so the stitches can be tight so the stuffing does not show. I have made toys on the blue KK round loom with bulky to very bulky yarn so I can get tight stitches. I follow the pattern literally. The toy comes out much bigger then what was intended if you use the blue KK and bulky yarn. Also, with the blue KK loom you can’t get the stitches too tight so the stuffing does show a bit but I have learned to crochet fast on it so it suits me best.

The smaller the gauge on the loom the tighter and closer the stitches are.

The larger the gauge on the loom the looser and further apart the stitches are.

I use the blue KK loom or the Dalooms set sampler when I use two pegs to crochet.

The best yarn

It depends on how tight and how close you want the stitches to be.



If you want to make a shawl with the stitches spread out and airy, use the yellow KK loom with medium or bulky yarn.

If you want to make a shawl with the stitches close together for warmth, use a small to fine gauge loom with medium to bulky yarn.

Play a little, this is not exact science. Since this is a new technique, there is a lot to be discovered so explore!

What looms have I used?

So far I have used the KK looms both round and long. I favor the Blue KK loom with bulky yarn to crochet in the round. It is comfortable to hold and works up fast.

I also use Décor accents sampler set looms in working in the round and flat panels. The different gauges give me the ability to use different weight yarn. I can also make small things using all the pegs like a little purse, thin scarf, headband and dishcloths. So far I favor the Extra small and fine gauge in the set.

I would love to try out more looms to see the affects but I don’t have that ability right now. I would love for someone to make a 4 peg crochet loom with the ability to adjust to pegs to different gauges. What a concept!! Any takers?

Gauge

Yes, gauge is very important but for this tutorial, I just want to you to focus on how to create the stitches themselves. For these projects there will be no worries about gauge, just crochet away!

Using the KK looms for making hats.

In the first project, I made a hat using the blue KK loom. I used the DS cast on by Brenda Myers. I noticed that the KK looms have even or odd number of pegs which makes the completion of this specific cast on different.

If using an even amount of pegs in the round to make a hat (blue KK loom) use the instructions from project 1 –baby hat.

If using an odd amount of pegs in the round to make a hat:

(instructions will seem easier once you get through the tutorial)

Ch 2 on the starting peg. Yarn over the second peg counterclockwise and pull yarn through Yarn over the starter peg counterclockwise and draw yarn through 2 loops.



Catch the 'v" Place the "v" on the second peg. Place the WYL on the second peg and SC on the third peg. You just made your first SC.

You don’t have to use the DS cast on all the time. You can Chain all the way around the loom. Once you get to your last peg, chain one more onto the first peg. This chain will be your WYL. Use this loop to create your first crochet stitch on peg 2. You will consider peg 2 the first peg or the beginning peg for each round.

Changing Colors: You can change colors anytime you want. Try different things. The best way to change colors: Right before you complete your last stitch, use a new color yarn to complete the stitch. This usually means you will take a new color yarn and yarn over to complete the stitch and then you will use the new color to make all the stitches you want with that color. This makes it a smooth color change. May sound weird and wrong until you see it for yourself. This tutorial will give you practice. ** Completing Basic Crochet Stitches It is important to understand that all the basic crochet stitches are completed by using two pegs. It doesn’t matter if you are crocheting towards the right or left of the loom. What matters is how you work the two pegs. In this tutorial (in the quick guide) I will always refer to the 2 pegs as peg 1 and peg 2. Peg 1 is always the peg that has the WYL. Peg 2 is the peg that you will draw through first. PROJECT #1

Baby Hat

Supplies: KK blue round loom Lion brand Wool Ease thick and chunky Super Bulky #6 (color of your choice) I used fisherman and raspberry. Stitch Markers ***If you decide to use another size loom, please see instructions for making hats! The KK looms have both even and odd pegs which make the DS cast on completion different. The cast on instructions below are for the even pegged round looms, such as the blue KK loom. Step 1: Gather or DS cast on all pegs. Please visit Brenda Myers blog for instructions on this cast on. http://loomlady.blogspot.com/. It’s simple and a great cast on.)



Begin from left of the anchor peg. Work the cast on from left to right all around the loom. (Holding it the crochet way) Completing the cast on. Step one Step two

When you reach your last peg with the DS cast on you continue with the yarn in front of the last peg and then wrap the first peg counterclockwise to start your first Single Crochet (SC). (See pictures above) Making your first Single Crochet 1. Yarn over peg 1 counterclockwise (Picture above) and Draw yarn through (look at abbreviations –

draw yarn through means knit over).

2. Take the loop from peg 1 and place it on the peg to the right of it. (You should have two loops on

the peg to the right and no loop on peg 1.)

3. Yarn over counterclockwise and draw through two loops. You have created the working yarn loop.

You should be left with the only WYL on the peg. (There is still no loop on peg 1.)



4. Take off the WYL and pull it towards you. Below the loop there should be a "V” shape in the yarn.

Take the “v” shape with your hook and place it on peg 1.

I call this "catch the "v"." It may be hard to see the “v” for the first time. That is why I chose to make this hat with super bulky yarn. Take your time with it. The "V" will be very small in comparison to the others. As you go on to catch your second and third “v”s, you will find it much easier. The picture is bigger so you can see it better. My middle finger is holding the loop I took off of the peg and I am catching the “v” with my hook.



Take the WYL (the loop I am holding with my middle finger) and place it on the same peg that you placed the "v" on. (There should the "V" and the WYL loop on this peg. Be careful not to pull to tightly that the WYL changes position! The WYL should always remain on the top because you will be using that loop to make your next single crochet.

5. Yarn over peg 2 counterclockwise and Draw yarn through.



6. Take the loop from peg 2 and place it on peg 1. (there should be the "v", the WYL and now the loop from peg 2) Leave the "v" alone! I repeat, leave the “v” alone!

8. Yarn over counterclockwise and draw yarn through the first two loops. Remember to leave the "v"

alone.

9. Take off the WYL and pull it towards you. Below the loop there should be a "V” in the yarn. Take

both sides and place it on peg 2

10. Put the WYL on the same peg as the “v” (which for this case would be peg 2). 11. Follow steps 6‐10 to make all of your single crochets. Steps 6‐10 are the same steps you would

take if making single crochets with two pegs only, in the round or as a flat panel using as many pegs as you want.

12. Work peg 3 and every other peg the same way till you reach the end. Stop at the second to last

peg. You will notice that the last peg is empty but there is yarn on the back of the peg. All you



have to do is bring the yarn from the back of the peg to the front of the peg. Make your single crochet the same way you have been doing them.

Congrats! You have just completed your first round. You will get faster and faster. Believe me! And you will love it! Super bulky crochets fast so before you know it you will have a beautiful hat staring at you. Crochet your baby hat until you have your desired length and need three more rounds to finish the hat. Stop at the last peg before you begin a new round (in this case the last peg is to the right of the anchor peg). This is important because in order to have a smooth color change, you will need to change the color yarn on the last peg before you begin the next round. Now you have a choice. You can either

A. Simply change to a complimentary color for one round and then change back to the original color for the last two rounds.

Or

B. You can change to a complimentary color and try to make a Back post single crochet (BPSC) (special technique + color change) for one round and then change back to the original color for the last two rounds.



The BPSC on the loom is not a difficult stitch but it is really rough on your hook! You will need a sturdy hook tool for this! If you use your KK hook, you WILL distort it. A strong crochet hook or latch hook works best for this stitch. I made the main picture baby hat with BPSC. All it does is gives single color change a popping effect, which may or may not suit you.

Isn’t this fun? Choice A

1. Start your last single crochet to complete the round but do not complete the stitch. Instead stop right before your last yarn over. (You should have the four loops on the second to last peg). Take the new color yarn (leave a 5 in tail) and yarn over counterclockwise. Complete your single crochet by drawing the yarn through the two loops. Tug the new yarn and the old yarn. Catch the “v” and place it on the last peg (the “v” is still the old color). Place the WYL on the last peg.



2. With the new color yarn complete your SC all the way around and again stop right before you

complete the last peg. Change the color back to the original color on the last peg by completing step one.

3. Crochet two more rows. 4. Take the hat off the pegs. Yes take it off. There is no bind off. NO BIND OFF! YAY! 5. Cut the yarn leaving a 5 inch tail. Pull yarn through the loop and tighten. Weave in. 6. Remember the DS cast on. Well pull on the strand of yarn to close the top of the hat. You will

end up with a very long strand of yarn. Weave it in. This will secure the top of the hat.

You are done. You have completed your first crochet on the loom using all your pegs. Congrats! Choice B Change Color first

1. Start your last single crochet to complete the round but do not complete the stitch. Instead stop right before your last yarn over. (You should have the four loops on the second to last peg). Take the new color yarn and yarn over counterclockwise. Complete your single crochet by drawing the yarn through the two loops. Tug the new yarn and the old yarn. Catch the “v” and place it on the last peg (the “v” is still the old color). Place the WYL on the last peg.

BPSC (in the sample pictures I did not change the colors)

1. Place stitch markers on each “v” peg, all around the loom. (For the pictures I only placed on a

couple just so you can understand.)

2. With your hook, find the SC stem from the previous row below the chain you are working the BPSC on. Should be right below the chain. Hook the stem and place it on the peg 1.



3. With WYL, yarn over counterclockwise and pull yarn through both the “v” and the stem loop.

(this is the rough part)

4. Place the loop (WYL) that is on the peg, onto the previous peg.

5. Yarn over the WYL counterclockwise and pull yarn through the top 2 loops on the peg. Leave the “v” alone.



6. Locate the stitch marker and place the “v” back on the empty peg.

7. Take the WYL and place it on the same peg as well. Tug on the WY to tighten.



8. Follow steps 1 ‐6 all the way around 9. Change the color back to the original color on the last peg by completing. 10. Crochet two more rows. 11. Take the hat off the pegs. Yes take it off. There is no bind off. NO BIND OFF! YAY! 12. Cut the yarn leaving a 5 inch tail. Pull yarn through the loop and tighten. Weave in. 13. Remember the DS cast on. Well pull on the strand of yarn to close the top of the hat. You will

end up with a very long strand of yarn. Weave it in. This will secure the top of the hat. PROJECT #2 Little tiny Flower Supplies: KK blue round loom Bernat Softee and Chunky #5 bulky fern or yarn of your choice as long as it’s bulky. Stitch Marker

1. Make an Adjustable ring (leave a 5 inch tail). Starting a 5 inch tail, hold the beginning of the yarn on your right hand and place the yarn over the peg. (Picture 1). Then yarn over counterclockwise. (Picture 2) Place stitch marker. (Picture 3).



2. Ch 8 To make a chain, yarn over counterclockwise (pic 1) and draw yarn through (pic 2). Do this eight times. (Pic 3)



3. SS into ring. Grab the stitch marker and with your hook, gently open up the adjustable ring. (Pic 1) Place the ring on the peg to the right of the WYL. Place the WYL on the same loop as the ring. (Pic 2) Draw yarn through (Pic 3). Slip stitch made.

4. Do steps 2‐3, 4 more times for 5 petals.



5. On your last SS cut yarn leaving a 5 inch tail, pull yarn through the loop and tighten. Tug on the ring tail yarn to close the ring. Adjust petals.

Tie the flower onto the hat off centered. Weave in ends. PROJECT #3 BONUS Flower try it yourself! Supplies: Blue KK round loom Stitch marker #5 bulky yarn of your choice. I used Bernat #5 softee and chunky blue

1. Adjustable ring 2. Ch 2 3. 1 SC in adjustable ring

Grab the stitch marker and with your hook, gently open up the adjustable ring. (Pic 1) Place the ring on the peg to the right of the WYL. The WYL is peg 1 and the ring is peg 2. Complete your SC. Use your quick guide if you forgot how to do a SC.

4. 1 Tr in adjustable ring Grab the stitch marker and with your hook, gently open up the adjustable ring. Place the ring on the peg to the right of the WYL. WYL is on peg 1 and the ring is on peg 2. Yarn over peg 1 twice and peg 2 once. Draw yarn through peg 2. Move loop on peg 2 over to peg 1. There will be four loops on peg 1. Yarn over and Draw through the first two (top) loops. Yarn over again and draw through the first two (top) loops. Yarn over again and draw through the last two loops.

5. Follow steps 2 ‐4, 4 more times. SS into your first SC. Cut yarn leaving 5 inch tail, pull yarn through the loop and tighten. Weave in end. Block flower with your fingers.

PROJECT #4 Bonus Flower II Supplies: Blue KK loom Stitch Marker #5 bulky yarn of your choice. (I used Bernat softee and chunky blue)



Try it yourself! Adjustable ring Rnd 1: Ch3 Rnd 2: Double crochet Rnd 3: Ch 3. SS in ring Do Rounds 1‐3 a total of five times. Cut yarn leaving 5 inch tail, pull yarn through the loop and tighten. Weave in ends. Block flower with your fingers.

PROJECT # 5 Mini Gift Bag Supplies: Blue KK round loom Stitch Markers Bernat Soft and chunky #5 bulky colors sage and cream or yarn of your choice as long as it is bulky #5. P = Popcorn stitch

1. Ch 15 (You will put all 15 Chains on the peg. The 15th chain on the peg is your WYL) Place a slip knot on the first peg.



Yarn over counterclockwise

Draw yarn through very loosely

Take the loop that is on peg 1 over to peg 2. The loop should be on both peg 1 and peg 2.

There is a small loop on the bottom of peg 1. Take that loop with your hook and put it over peg one. Tug yarn to tighten



Yarn over peg 2 counterclockwise Draw yarn through very loosely Take the loop that is on peg 2 over to peg 3. The loop should be on both peg 2 and peg 3.

There is a small loop on the bottom of peg 2. Take that loop with your hook and put it over peg 3. Tug yarn to tighten

Keep doing this until you have all 15 chains on an individual peg. The slip knot on peg 1 counts as one chain, so you are literally doing 14.

You have just made 15 chains on to the pegs!

Note: Your 15th chain is really your WYL. You will always make an extra chain to account for the WYL when crocheting in the round or a flat panel using more than two pegs.

2. Row 1: CH 2, DC 14

Yarn over counterclockwise and pull yarn through. Do this three times.



WYL is on peg 1. Yarn over peg 1 and peg 2.

Draw yarn through on peg 2.

Move loop from peg 2 over to peg 1.

There should be three loops on peg 1. Yarn over and draw yarn through the top two loops.



Yarn over and draw yarn through the top two loops.

Take off the WYL and pull it towards you. Below the loop there should be a "V” shape in the yarn. Take the “v” shape with your hook and place it on the peg you called peg 2 (next to next chained peg).



Place the WYL on the same peg.

Don’t pull too much because you don’t want to lose that loop! This peg is now called peg 1 because it has the WYL on it. Peg 2 is the peg that has the next chain on it. Follow the above steps. The “v” on peg 1 stays there! Leave all of these alone while you are working! Keep making DC’s until the end. Place the WYL from the last DC on the empty peg to the right of the last DC. Picture below.

Row 2‐3: Ch3, DC 14

You are doing the same thing that you did in step 2 just reverse it! Take your time because it can be confusing! All you are doing is reversing the way you make DC’s each time you get to a new row. It’s as if you are turning your work. Pictures below show you how to do it in reverse.



Row 4: CH3, DC 14 change to contrasting color on last DC (see project 1 for color changing.)

Row 5: CH 3, DC, P, DC, P, P, DC, P, P, DC, P, DC change back to main Popcorn stitch: Place stitch marker into the stitch/chain/chain space that you will be doing the popcorn stitch.

Make four double crochets into the same stitch/chain/chain space. Do not catch the “v” on these DC, just let them go. Instead, each time you complete a DC, just lift up the stitch marker to catch the “v” that it is holding and place it back onto the peg. Pictures shows this step.

Once you complete the four double crochets, you are left with the WYL on peg 1.

Take out the WYL, careful not to take loose the loop. Place the "v" of the first double crochet the empty peg.



Place the WYL on peg one as well. Tug to tighten

Draw yarn through.

You are left with the working yarn loop.

Ch 1



Work the next DC. You will quickly notice that the peg you just made the popcorn stitch with is empty. Don’t panic! Once you have finished your next stitch, tug on bottom of you piece.

Do you see that “v”?

Well, place that “v” on the empty peg.

Woo hoo! Stress gone! Now complete this row and do the same thing to all the popcorn stitches! Don’t forget to remove the stitch marker once you are all done. Tip: to make your popcorn really pop! Stick your finger once you are done.

Row 6‐8: CH3, DC 14

Row 9: Same as row 5

Row 10‐13: CH3, DC 14

Weave in all ends Congrats! You are done with the main piece. Edging for All the way around the square! Blue KK round loom Bernat #5 softee chunky natural and fern (same color as the purse)



You are going to start on the left side of the square and work your way around. Picture below shows it ¾ of the way done. I started on the left top corner.

You are only going to use 2 pegs for this. Place a slip knot on peg 1. Peg 1 is your WYL Ch 3 (counts as one DC.) Work 2 DC’s in every edge block ALL the way around to you get to where you started.

Slip stitch on the first DC stitch. Cut the yarn leaving 5 inch tail. Pull through loop and tighten. Weave in all ends. Fold panel and whip stitch the sides of the panel on the wrong side.

Straps Blue KK round loom Bernat #5 soft and chunky Sage and white Make 2. Slip knot on peg 1 Row 1: Ch 21 (including the slip knot)



Row 2: 1 SC on every stitch (20 sts) Row 3: Ch 1, 1 SC on every Stich (20sts) Row 4: CH 1, 1 SC on every Stitch. (20 sts) Take off the loom. Slip Stitch all the way around the straps with white. The straps have two long sides and two short sides. The two long sides are different in that one side has a "V" and the other side only has one loop of the "v".

You can start at whichever. If you start at the "V" or are finishing with the "v" side, use the front loop only. The tail end of the yarn is in your right hand and the WY is in your left hand. Place the yarn around the front of the peg 1.

Place the strap loop on the same peg.

Yarn over and draw through both loops. You are left with the WYL. Place the next strap loop on the peg. Yarn over and pull through both loops. You are left with the WYL. Do this all the way around. Since I am going to use it as a gift bag. I did not see the sense in lining the bag on the inside. You can go ahead and do that if you like. I just place tissue paper on the inside to make the little items stick out and then placed the items on top of the tissue paper. If you want to you can glue the little items to the tissue paper so they won't move around and stay put. CONGRATS!! Admire your work! You deserve it!



Change it up

Feeling for a challenge? Make two main pieces with the edging and then whip stitch them together. Makes for a bigger gift bag! Square too!

PROJECT #6

Sunglass holder or gift bag

Supplies:

Dalooms regular gauge 12 peg set sampler

Bernat softee and chunky #5 bulky blue and white or any bulky #5 yarn of your choice

Try this one yourself.

The picture is on the cover page of this tutorial

I made this using the Dalooms set sampler. If you don’t have it you can try it out on the blue KK loom. It will come out larger since it is a different gauge - But hey, you might like it this way.

Notes:

Make your first chains from left to right. Begin on peg 2, leaving the first peg empty. This peg is empty because you need that peg for the WYL. You will see what I mean if you use this loom.

Pattern:

Row 1: Ch 11. (Counting the slip knot on peg 1)

Row 2: Ch 4, 1 Treble on every peg (change color on the 11th treble). (10 Sts)

Row 3: Ch 4 and turn. 1 treble on every peg (change color on the 11th treble). (10 Sts)

Row 4 Ch 4 and turn. 1 treble on every peg (change color on the 11th treble). (10 Sts)

Row 5-24 Ch 4 and turn. 1 treble on every peg. (Change color on the 11th treble.) (10sts)

Row 24: Ch 4 and turn. 1 treble on every peg for the first 4 pegs. Ch1 and place that chain on the 5th peg. 1 treble on every peg on 5 pegs. (10 Sts)

Row 25: Ch 4 and turn. 1 treble on every peg. (10sts)

Cut yarn leaving a 5 inch tail and weave in ALL ends.

Whip stitch sides together.



Congrats! Now go and crochet some more!

Tutorials coming soon….

• Crochet on the loom 2: Beyond the basics • Needle felting: Fun additions to your knitted and crocheted pieces • The knitted canvas: Fiber with Mixed media art and other cool ideas

These tutorials will be published to my blog in order of popular demand. Send me an email on which tutorial you are most interested in. I keep tabs of your responses!



Quick Reference Guide and Legend

Abbreviation Terminology Instructions

Beg Beginning

Bet Between Bl Back Loop Insert your hook into only the back of the "v" stitch.

BPSC Back Post Single Crochet Place stitch markers on each chain or "v" from first to the last peg. With your hook, find the SC stem from the previous row below the chain you are working the BPSC on. Should be

right below the chain. Hook the stem and place it on the peg. With WY, yarn over counterclockwise. Draw Yarn through both the chain and the stem loops. (Can be a little tough to

do). Place the WYL on the previous peg. Yarn over

counterclockwise and draw yarn through the top 2 loops on the peg. Locate the stitch marker and place the chain back on the empty peg. Take the WYL and place it on that same

peg. Move on to the next peg and do the same.

CC Contrast Color Another color besides the main color. If you are working with more than one contrasting color, you will see different letters

of the alphabet representing the different colors.

Ch Chain With the WYL on the peg 1, yarn over and pull through. Each time do this, you make a chain.

Ch‐sp or CH SP Chain Space You create a chain space when you make chains in between two stitches.

Cont Continue DC Double Crochet WYL is on peg 1. Yarn over peg 1 and peg 2. Draw yarn

through on peg 2. Move loop from peg 2 over to peg 1. There should be three loops on peg 1. Yarn over and draw yarn

through top two loops. Yarn over and draw yarn through the top two loops.

(If you are making DC’s using for a flat panel or in the round using more than two pegs, you will need to catch the “v”.)



DTR Double Treble Crochet WYL is on peg 1. Yarn over peg 1 three times and peg 2 once. Draw yarn through peg 2. Move loop on peg 2 over to peg 1. There should be five loops on peg 1. Yarn over and draw through the first two loops closest to the yarn over loop.

There are now four loops. Yarn over and again draw through the first two loops closest to the yarn over loop. There are now three loops. Yarn over and again draw through the first two loops closest to the yarn over loop. There are now two loops. Yarn over and again draw through the last two loops.

You should be left with the working yarn loop. (If you are making DTR’s using for a flat panel or in the round using more than two pegs, you will need to catch the “v”.)

Fl Front loop Insert your hook into only the back of the "v" stitch. HDC Half Double Crochet Working yarn loop is on peg 1. Yarn over peg 1 and peg 2.

Draw yarn through peg 2. Move loop on peg 2 over to peg 1. There should be three loops on peg one. Yarn over and draw

through all three loops. (If you are making HDC’s using for a flat panel or in the round using more than two pegs, you will need to catch the “v”.)

hk Hook This is the apparatus that you are using to draw the yarn through on the loom.

inc increase This is shown in tutorial #2. Decrease as well. But just so you know, you can do increases and decreases the same way as

you would if you were crocheting with a needle.

MC Main Color This is the main color of yarn that you will be working with. pm Place Marker Place Marker or stitch marker. They will be your best friend.

Prev Previous Rem remaining Rep Repeat Rnd Round This is a crochet term when working in the "round". Instead

of crocheting rows you are crocheting rounds. You are literally crocheting in a round circle and each time you go

around it is called a round.

SC Single Crochet Working yarn loop is on peg 1. Yarn over peg 2 and draw yarn through. Move loop from peg 2 over to peg 1. There should be two loops on peg 1. Yarn over and draw yarn through the

two loops. (If you are making SC’s using for a flat panel or in the round using more than two pegs, you will need to catch the “v”.)

Sk skip Skip a chain, chain space, or whatever else the instructions may ask you to skip.



Sl, st, or ss Slip Stitch Take the WYL off the peg and hold onto it. Place the stitch/chain or chain space that you want to make a slip stitch with the peg. Place the working yarn loop back on the same

peg. Draw yarn through.

Tog together This may signal a decrease or a cluster. Instructions should be with the pattern in the notes sections.

Tr Treble WYL is on peg 1. Yarn over peg 1 twice and peg 2 once. Draw yarn through peg 2. Move loop on peg 2 over to peg 1. There will be four loops on peg 1. Yarn over and Draw through the first top loops. Yarn over again and draw through the first top loops. Yarn over again and draw through the last two loops. (If you are making Tr’s using for a flat panel or in the round using more than two pegs, you will need to catch the “v”.)

YO Yarn Over Wrap peg with working yarn counter clockwise Draw Yarn Through Same meaning as Knit over. With hook take the bottom

loop/stitch/chain or chain space and draw yarn through the top loop and off the peg.

WYL Working Yarn Loop To make any crochet stitches you will need a working yarn loop.

WY Working Yarn This is the yarn you are using to make your crochet item. Either it be from a skein, ball or little scraps of yarn.

POP or PC Popcorn Stitch Place stitch marker into the stitch/chain/chain space that you will be doing the popcorn stitch. Make four double crochets into the same stitch/chain/chain space. Do not catch the “v” on these DC, just let them go. Instead, each time you complete a DC, just lift up the stitch marker to catch the “v” that it is holding and place it back onto the peg. Once you complete the four double crochets, you are left with the WYL on peg 1. Take out the WYL, careful not to take loose the loop. Place the "v" of the first double crochet the empty peg. Place the WYL on peg one as well. Tug to tighten. Draw yarn through. You are left with the working yarn loop. Ch 1

Turning Chains When you reach the beginning or end of a row for a flat

panel, you will need to make a turning chain. The turning chains are the same numbers as in crocheting with needles.

SS = 0, SC = 1, HDC = 2, DC = 3, Tr = 4, DTR = 5.

Catch the "V" "v" Stitch Once you completed your last yarn over, you take the WYL off the peg and with your hook you hook the "v" and place it on

the peg.

crochet on the loom tutorial - vbchalice.comvbchalice.com/loomclass.pdf · crochet on the loom...

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